"If you don't understand it, don't change it".....solid advice Keith! :-) I use basic settings when I use my SpyderX with my Eizo monitor. Works just fine.
Hi Keith, my question doesn't seem to be answered here. I have a BenQ and there are various Colour Modes on the BenQ Monitor settings: Standard, Adobe RGB, sRGB, Photo, etc. My question is, which of these Colour Modes is the one to set the Monitor to before I start calibrating with the X-rite i1Display software, and for viewing and editing my Photos in Lightroom after calibrating? I shoot RAW in Adobe RGB and I edit for both Viewing in Galleries and Printing. (Weddings).
If it's a hardware calibrated model you just use the BenQ software and not anything else - the X-Rite software cannot make full use of the monitor capabilities. Note that I'm using the x-rite software here on this particular monitor purely for demo purposes. The BenQ software works with the X-Rite measuring device. Did you read my BenQ reviews? They cover settings in much more detail www.northlight-images.co.uk/category/articles-and-reviews/benq/ Actual BenQ monitor settings depend on the model you have. I set mine to its largest gamut and save my setting to one of the custom calibration settings. The monitor shown here has a slightly different (but close) gamut to adobe98. Note too that raw files have no colour space as such, so that setting a camera to A98 only affects any JPEG files produced (and the camera histogram) - it has no real relevance in a raw based workflow Hope that clarifies things...
Hi Keith, thanks for all your videos! At the beginning of the calibration with the luminance I also set the RGB channels via the monitor settings, is it right? Have you tried DisplayCal 3? I tried it with my i1 Studio and seems to be a good calibration software... Thanks.
Thanks Yes, it doesn't usually matter how you set the monitor. It varies with monitor and operating system. The 2700 I was using had already been set up with the BenQ software. I've not tried displaycal - it is at least easier for people to get to grips with than the (otherwise excellent and free) command line based ArgyllCMS
Lol another video I needed to see.. thanks for doing this video I also have a BenQ sw270c.. My question is you don’t have to use the pallet master software for the monitor I can use my i1 profile software is there any drawbacks to using the i1 software
Considerable drawbacks I'm afraid. i1Profiler can't do any hardware calibration for the monitor, which is one of it's key quality features. Nor can it set the multiple calibration options - something I use for video editing (setting the display for Davinci Resolve to REC709) and for setting a very low colour temp for showing a monitor in videos
Hi Keith. Thanks for the video. My question is: after calibrating my iMac2020 monitor with the i1 Display and i1 Profiler software, do I have to recalibrate my monitor if I adjust the screen brightness levels using the keyboard? If I'm not working on a photo, sometimes I'll readjust the screen brightness - does that invalidate my calibration and defeat the purpose of calibrating prior to softproofing? Is there any way to reload the most recent calibration without going through the whole calibration process all over again?
Technically it does affect calibration, but setting brightness back to the correct point [see the displays prefs] should be OK Just don't rely on 'soft proofing' too much!
I am using the datacolor SpiderXElite and I read your review about this device. You were quite positive about it. I am still not happy with how colors are displayed (too yellow). I use a Benq PD 2720U. Is x-rite better ? some people tell me x-rite is a spectrometer and datacolor's device is a colorimeter and this makes the difference. Also, Is there a point in manually tuning your white balance by holding a grey card next to your monitor, lit by a daylight LED display ? Thanks
Yes, the Spyder should work OK, but you do need to make sure the correct sort of backlighting is selected for the monitor. Are you using the BenQ software or Datacolor? 'Some people' are completely wrong in this particular respect ;-) - the i1Display (all versions) is a colorimeter, much like the Spyder devices. The X-rite i1Pro and i1Studio devices are spectrophotometers and not generally better than colorimeters - but they also offer paper profiling. The SpyderPrint is a multi-channel colorimeter with a multi colour LED source in it. It can make profiles for paper, but not do screen calibration/profiling. Manually tuning seems reasonable, but is a really bad way of setting monitors ;-) I will be covering this in some future videos
Your videos are really helping me to get to grips with printing so thanks. I have a question though. If I profile my monitor that then gives me an RGB profile that I can convert to in Photoshop to view my work. However when I come to print I then convert the image to CMYK. So if I'm editing in CMYK then won't that be different to the RGB profile I have just set up? Sorry for the newbie question. I'm just unclear as to what the point in the profile is when I'll need to work in CMYK to edit so that will be what is informing me whether my image is correct or not pre printing.
Glad they are of interest. I'm assuming this is for working with photos? The monitor profile use is fully automatic, so of no relevance for most of the time - I never need consider monitor profiles in my day to day work. Unless you have a quite specific uses, then there is no reason ever to do anything in CMYK. If there is then you'll know why you have selected a particular CMYK working space. The only time in 20 years I've used CMYK was to check some proofs for my book on tilt/shift lenses - all my original work is in RGB Remember that all the printers I look at may use CMYK inks, but they are RGB devices. Hope that helps?
@@KeithCooper thanks a lot for the reply Keith. I'd always thought I needed to change mode to CMYK before printing but if I can just edit in RGB and see the image using my monitor's profile then yes I'm all set. Thank you. Great channel.
Thanks - it just one of those things that helps make anyone's photo workflow a bit more predictable - that and easier to spot where something has gone wrong...
I swear, it's like you're in my brain Keith. Just 10 minutes ago, I was thinking about color calibration, after purchasing a Pro 200 based on your reviews and guides on printers.
Well, I try to be useful ;-) I've lots of (written) reviews on the Northlight Images web site - these pre-date my videos, so I'm going to be doing some new videos to supplement some of my older reviews.
It's funny, until you started discussing monitor calibration, I had a color calibrator that I got free and never used. Really glad I started using it, photo editing is much more reliable after calibration. Now I'm trying to find out how to manually make an icc profile for my printer printer for some specific papers that don't have profiles available since they're older stock and the printer I use is too cheap. I don't mind doing multiple test prints and tweaking by holding up to my monitor, but I don't really know what the process is or what software to use.
Thanks - I'm going to cover some aspects of paper profiles in a few videos, but see the articles about it on the Northlight site - there are quite a few
Just bear in mind if you're going with Adobe RGB standard white point of 6500 and you're hoping to match your prints then ideally judge your prints under 6500 kelvin lighting. I believe Keith has mentioned in another video that his room lighting was around 4000k/4500k so his 5000k screen white point ain't too far off that! (Open to correction btw if required)
Yes - I'd just note that I only have the screen set to ~4k to match the room lighting to look good on videos ;-) It's no good to work on... The place you see me in the current videos is not lit that way when I'm working [on screens at the other end of the room] My default setting of 6500 is indeed well judged at 6500K - but in reality, no-one really has 6500K lighting, and more importantly, any print you display is unlikely to be displayed in such lighting. As with all these things, the key is to actually learn to look at prints. Good consistent print lighting helps - but unless you're in a commercial print proofing company though, expensive accurate lighting is rarely much benefit.
Thank you so much Keith. Much appreciated.
Glad it was of interest!
Thank you, thank you.
"If you don't understand it, don't change it".....solid advice Keith! :-) I use basic settings when I use my SpyderX with my Eizo monitor. Works just fine.
I have to remember this when testing things as well ;-)
Again, you're a true teacher: a master. Thanks for sharing. Now, what monitor could I get for, say, around 300 pounds? Any suggestion? Thanks again!
Thanks - can't help with monitors I'm afraid since I don't look at many of them and don't really follow prices
Hi Keith, my question doesn't seem to be answered here. I have a BenQ and there are various Colour Modes on the BenQ Monitor settings: Standard, Adobe RGB, sRGB, Photo, etc. My question is, which of these Colour Modes is the one to set the Monitor to before I start calibrating with the X-rite i1Display software, and for viewing and editing my Photos in Lightroom after calibrating?
I shoot RAW in Adobe RGB and I edit for both Viewing in Galleries and Printing. (Weddings).
If it's a hardware calibrated model you just use the BenQ software and not anything else - the X-Rite software cannot make full use of the monitor capabilities.
Note that I'm using the x-rite software here on this particular monitor purely for demo purposes. The BenQ software works with the X-Rite measuring device.
Did you read my BenQ reviews? They cover settings in much more detail
www.northlight-images.co.uk/category/articles-and-reviews/benq/
Actual BenQ monitor settings depend on the model you have.
I set mine to its largest gamut and save my setting to one of the custom calibration settings. The monitor shown here has a slightly different (but close) gamut to adobe98. Note too that raw files have no colour space as such, so that setting a camera to A98 only affects any JPEG files produced (and the camera histogram) - it has no real relevance in a raw based workflow
Hope that clarifies things...
Hi Keith do you know if you can create printer profile from printed test card using a X-Rite i1 Display Studio Color Calibration.
No - it is a colorimeter that measures light - used for monitor calibration/profiling only
Thank you
Hi Keith, thanks for all your videos!
At the beginning of the calibration with the luminance I also set the RGB channels via the monitor settings, is it right?
Have you tried DisplayCal 3? I tried it with my i1 Studio and seems to be a good calibration software... Thanks.
Thanks
Yes, it doesn't usually matter how you set the monitor. It varies with monitor and operating system. The 2700 I was using had already been set up with the BenQ software.
I've not tried displaycal - it is at least easier for people to get to grips with than the (otherwise excellent and free) command line based ArgyllCMS
Lol another video I needed to see.. thanks for doing this video I also have a BenQ sw270c.. My question is you don’t have to use the pallet master software for the monitor I can use my i1 profile software is there any drawbacks to using the i1 software
Considerable drawbacks I'm afraid. i1Profiler can't do any hardware calibration for the monitor, which is one of it's key quality features. Nor can it set the multiple calibration options - something I use for video editing (setting the display for Davinci Resolve to REC709) and for setting a very low colour temp for showing a monitor in videos
@@KeithCooper Thank you again for the info
Hi Keith. Thanks for the video. My question is: after calibrating my iMac2020 monitor with the i1 Display and i1 Profiler software, do I have to recalibrate my monitor if I adjust the screen brightness levels using the keyboard? If I'm not working on a photo, sometimes I'll readjust the screen brightness - does that invalidate my calibration and defeat the purpose of calibrating prior to softproofing? Is there any way to reload the most recent calibration without going through the whole calibration process all over again?
Technically it does affect calibration, but setting brightness back to the correct point [see the displays prefs] should be OK
Just don't rely on 'soft proofing' too much!
I am using the datacolor SpiderXElite and I read your review about this device. You were quite positive about it. I am still not happy with how colors are displayed (too yellow). I use a Benq PD 2720U. Is x-rite better ? some people tell me x-rite is a spectrometer and datacolor's device is a colorimeter and this makes the difference. Also, Is there a point in manually tuning your white balance by holding a grey card next to your monitor, lit by a daylight LED display ?
Thanks
Yes, the Spyder should work OK, but you do need to make sure the correct sort of backlighting is selected for the monitor. Are you using the BenQ software or Datacolor?
'Some people' are completely wrong in this particular respect ;-) - the i1Display (all versions) is a colorimeter, much like the Spyder devices. The X-rite i1Pro and i1Studio devices are spectrophotometers and not generally better than colorimeters - but they also offer paper profiling.
The SpyderPrint is a multi-channel colorimeter with a multi colour LED source in it. It can make profiles for paper, but not do screen calibration/profiling.
Manually tuning seems reasonable, but is a really bad way of setting monitors ;-)
I will be covering this in some future videos
@@KeithCooper Thanks !
Your videos are really helping me to get to grips with printing so thanks. I have a question though. If I profile my monitor that then gives me an RGB profile that I can convert to in Photoshop to view my work. However when I come to print I then convert the image to CMYK. So if I'm editing in CMYK then won't that be different to the RGB profile I have just set up? Sorry for the newbie question. I'm just unclear as to what the point in the profile is when I'll need to work in CMYK to edit so that will be what is informing me whether my image is correct or not pre printing.
Glad they are of interest.
I'm assuming this is for working with photos?
The monitor profile use is fully automatic, so of no relevance for most of the time - I never need consider monitor profiles in my day to day work.
Unless you have a quite specific uses, then there is no reason ever to do anything in CMYK. If there is then you'll know why you have selected a particular CMYK working space. The only time in 20 years I've used CMYK was to check some proofs for my book on tilt/shift lenses - all my original work is in RGB
Remember that all the printers I look at may use CMYK inks, but they are RGB devices.
Hope that helps?
@@KeithCooper thanks a lot for the reply Keith. I'd always thought I needed to change mode to CMYK before printing but if I can just edit in RGB and see the image using my monitor's profile then yes I'm all set. Thank you. Great channel.
Excellent - most people never ever need go near working in CMYK ;-)
Great video and thanks for sharing.
Thanks
I cal my dual NEC monitors to 5800° K. Prints look great (Canon Pro-1000). I think 6500 is too blue/cold.
That's fine - the calibration is the important bit ;-)
A lot depends on the lighting where you are working
I started calibating my monitors after watching your earlier videos on the topic. Thank you.
Thanks - it just one of those things that helps make anyone's photo workflow a bit more predictable - that and easier to spot where something has gone wrong...
I swear, it's like you're in my brain Keith. Just 10 minutes ago, I was thinking about color calibration, after purchasing a Pro 200 based on your reviews and guides on printers.
Well, I try to be useful ;-)
I've lots of (written) reviews on the Northlight Images web site - these pre-date my videos, so I'm going to be doing some new videos to supplement some of my older reviews.
It's funny, until you started discussing monitor calibration, I had a color calibrator that I got free and never used. Really glad I started using it, photo editing is much more reliable after calibration.
Now I'm trying to find out how to manually make an icc profile for my printer printer for some specific papers that don't have profiles available since they're older stock and the printer I use is too cheap.
I don't mind doing multiple test prints and tweaking by holding up to my monitor, but I don't really know what the process is or what software to use.
Thanks - I'm going to cover some aspects of paper profiles in a few videos, but see the articles about it on the Northlight site - there are quite a few
Just bear in mind if you're going with Adobe RGB standard white point of 6500 and you're hoping to match your prints then ideally judge your prints under 6500 kelvin lighting. I believe Keith has mentioned in another video that his room lighting was around 4000k/4500k so his 5000k screen white point ain't too far off that! (Open to correction btw if required)
Yes - I'd just note that I only have the screen set to ~4k to match the room lighting to look good on videos ;-) It's no good to work on... The place you see me in the current videos is not lit that way when I'm working [on screens at the other end of the room]
My default setting of 6500 is indeed well judged at 6500K - but in reality, no-one really has 6500K lighting, and more importantly, any print you display is unlikely to be displayed in such lighting.
As with all these things, the key is to actually learn to look at prints. Good consistent print lighting helps - but unless you're in a commercial print proofing company though, expensive accurate lighting is rarely much benefit.