My friend boat bottom cleaning, was also using that same kind of air pump. He constantly complained the air taste awful. After a long day of diving he went to hospital, where they put him on a ventilator, for corrective measures. Use at your own risk, the pump designed for plants.
I have always had concerns on diving on my boat while in a marina due to stray voltage from improper wiring in the marina or neighbor boats, this is great, I can scrub the bottom while in a anchorage! Much better than snorkeling! Thanks for posting, I am going to build one for my boat!
To clarify.... . Human lungs have 5 lobs of total capacity of 5 - 8 liters BUT when breathing ONLY one lob is in-healing the air hence 1.1 - 1.7 liter per breath and NOT 5 liters. One lobe after another is used for breathing NOT ALL at once. I'm totally surprised by the lack of this basic and important information. Got my scuba diving license in 1980 in Poland and still remember almost all what i'have learned. Thank you for sharing... will build it for my self. All the best.
Looked a bit precarious. But I suppose as you're not actually totally dependent on it to breathe with no other option. it's ok in such shallow depths, you can surface any time. So really cleverly put together at a great price. Thanks for sharing.
I built essentially the same system but used the smaller 906 compressor, I use it for underwater metal detecting to 10/12 ft, I changed to a lighter spring in the regulator for easier breathing, I also have a hose setup without a regulator but use a reconfigured snorkel with purge valve, this is an open system so air is always flowing, very easy to breath and good for when working hard, I used cheaper clear food grade hose. This compressor works well but MUST be disassembled and cleaned up a bit before use, the castings are rough and dirty, don’t use without a filter!!
Peter Nicholls yes and I adjusted it as low as possible but still needed a lighter spring, the pressure is very low and it took a bit of tweaking to get it so the air flowed easily without leaking past the valve
Yep, looks like Coastal Georgia water to me. Great idea. I've seen several Cruisers struggling with bottom scraping and holding their breaths. This makes great sense. Once again your common sense is at work.
You probably don't need the regulator. Just run the hose into the snorkel and let the air flow out your mouth. Breathe from it as needed. A similar system operates in large aquariums where mermaids breathe from an air hose. When I was young, I built a very simple rig from a DeVilbiss air compressor, garden hose, and snorkel and used it as I cleaned our swimming pool.
Curious how this has lasted 2 years on. I'm about to build a hookah and have ordered a low pressure 2nd stage reg (IP 50psi). My main drive like you is power consumption, aside from staying alive. The thing I worry about with the compressor mentioned is that it seems to be designed for unrestricted air flow thru aquarium stones. That would make it an air PUMP and not a compressor at all. Does it vent off at all under pressure if you never open the reg? I assume when you aren't taking a breath it compresses the air in the hose up to the point where the rubber diaphragm is forced to deform in order to pump nothing, or the electric motor would have to be physically held by the pressure on the diaphragm to a stop which would be very bad. It may have been built as a compressor and just used for aquariums or maybe not. I might try it with a variable relief valve so anything over mouthpiece pressure is just vented off.
I don't know the inner workings of the pump but it continues to work OK. It does not appear to vent itself when running with no air being drawn and that has not damaged it yet. I sold the original after one year and about 10 hours use bottom cleaning at a max of 4 feet to a friend who was sailing from CA to Mexico and didn't have time to order and build his own. He told me a week ago that he has used it for a year and put several more hours on it and is very happy with it. Besides bottom cleaning he used it while underway to cut free a fish trap line wrapped around his prop. I found I needed every bit of air it could provide and had to learn to control my breathing because at first I tended to hyperventilate slightly as I worked and felt like I wasn't getting enough air. Once I calmed down and got comfortable with the amount of air and the restriction of having to suck it out of the regulator resistance at the beginning and the lesser air flow towards the end of each breath as the pressure went to near zero I was fine with it. I would not add a relief valve unless because you want it to build up all the pressure it's capable of between breaths to give you max volume available and because apparently it is not needed. When I replaced mine I used the slightly larger capacity ACQ-910 but could not tell any difference in output or power draw or maybe there was just a very small improvement. Anyway, these pumps put out a lot of air until you connect the air filter which restricts the flow so if you could find a less restrictive filter it might work better.
@@atomvoyager Thanks for the reply. I wish I could find something comparable around twice the size. This one draws less than my laptop, and even twice the wattage up to 300w, I could run off my solar. I'm realizing the bigger cheap oilless use pistons with teflon rings, which does not make me comfortable. I was happy to pay a diver to deal with this but they always flake out and it doesn't get done... Cheers
if i may, i have s couple of things for you to think about. The air being pumped may have oil contaminates from the pump, if you can, its best to put a filter in there, you should be ok for now as the length of hose will hold most of that back, but at some point its going to get to you. Also maybe a small bag reservoir, inside a container as close to the regulator as is comfortable, this should protect from over pressure if that manages to happen for whatever reason as well as give you a more comfortable escape if the pump stops. i wouldn't go below more than a meter with compressed air, if you can help it.
Hey how can the air have oil in it? I just started using mine and I don’t like how I’m feeling afterwards, I thought these were “oil less” but I’m def feeling like crap
Hello, I purchased a partical/moisture filter like the one you have and installed and tested and air does not seem restricted at all...Question are you sure that your filter is installed correctly...I see know diagrams or flow direction arrows on unit...also any information on maintenance of filter? I do see gator gill sells replacement fillers...does your filter screw apart? Just not sure and don't want to break mine...ps fine tuning the reg and adding an extra air tank made a huge difference using my 160 lpm pump..I actually bought a 2 gallon pump sprayer I converted to air tank...these pumps only produce around 28 psi. Thanks for your help...😊
I believe I have the filter installed correctly and haven't felt the need to clean it or take it apart since the flow rate hasn't changed since it was new. There was no info on maintenance of it so try to contact Gator Gill or some other retailer of similar filters or hookah dealers. It could be that your 160 pump works better than my 150 and maybe the tank helps. I haven't experimented with a tank because I wanted the least bulky and simplest system to store on a small boat and I figured that since I used all the air it could output that if I used a tank it would be depleted quick and give no advantage after that. But I could be mistaken.
@@atomvoyager to my knowledge it is better to separate the particles first, for example a wayward piece of aluminium getting spewed out of the engine as it gets older and worn, than for it to go through the water separator filter first. It just makes common sense not to overload the water separator with large particles in the first instance, it is not designed to manage that otherwise. Just what I have deduced, I am in the process of putting the gill filters on my Chinese bought version.
I would do something a little different with that flimsy little piece of hose, coming right out of the air compressor, looks like it could be easily pinched off.
Hi..thanks for this video. I just got the stuff to do it...question...if the line gets blocked/bent does the pump have a bypass or shutoff that keeps it from jamming...thanks again
The pump does have some self-limiting pressure regulation so that it won't damage it it you kink a hose. The pump will keep running and as soon as you unkink it then the air flow will resume.
Hey thanks for making this vid. I bought all the stuff and I think I will add a tank too. I have seen the talk of adjusting the regulator but I can't find anywhere on it how to adjust it (that make and model)@@atomvoyager
@@frecou6275 There is no adjustment for the regulator because it is factory set by a spring. For low pressure hookah use it would help if you could take it to a dive shop, explain what it is for and ask if they can swap out the spring for a weaker spring to make breathing easier. It's not necessary though so you should use it as is first and maybe, like me, you'll find that you don't need to adjust it.
I am building a floating 12v hookah system for snorkeling. I see that this pump is made to run continuously. I'd like to connect it to 2-4 gallon tank with a pressure valve that turns the pump on at 70psi and off @ 110psi. How does the pump handle when you have the hose connected to parts blower and allow the pressure to build up?
The pump does not shut itself off when it reaches its highest pressure and I don't know what mechanism it uses other than it just keeps trying to pump even though the regulator is not being drawn on or a blower attachment is connected but not being used. I haven't connected a pressure gauge to see what pressure it holds at. Maybe someone else can explain what's going on and how it might work with a tank and on/off switching.
@@atomvoyager This kind of pump, or even a normal compressor, has a maximum pressure and volumetric efficiency. At atmospheric pressure the volume of air displaced inside by the diaphragm (or piston in a regular compressor) can come straight out the outlet. When the pressure builds up on the outlet hose, the air in side only comes out once the line pressure is reached onside. The remaining air inside just expands again, reducing the amount coming in on the next stroke. That means that the pressure is self limiting without any relief valve. It's the same as when you use a bicycle pump to pump up a high pressure tyre. It gets to a pressure where it just doesn't go anywhere.
I use that regulator on a Hudson tank I jus used electrical tape to thread it to the tank and it works well I can be under water constantly breathing for 2 mins in 5 feet of water
You covered a lot that is very helpful since I myself am building a very similar hookah using a 120w 160 out put rated motor...can you tell me if you needed to adjust regulator for better breathing? Also was there plenty of air delivery? What was your deepest testing? I am hoping my units air delivery is good up to 20 foot if needed...thanks again for all the great tips ..I need to buy a filter like you use...any idea on where or what it's called exactly? Thanks again.
My 150 liter output produced only just enough air for me at the 5' max depth I tried it so I doubt yours will work at 20'. But it could have more to do with the air filter restricting flow too much on this small output compressor. If you could find a less restrictive air filter that still delivered safe air then that may help. I have heard that switching the regulator spring to a lighter spring could help but I didn't try that and there's no other adjustment available that I know of. As noted in the descrption above, you can buy a filter on ebay. Here's one like what I used: www.ebay.com/itm/285188537516
@@atomvoyager I have that cheap yellow reg from Amazon and figured out how to adjust it ...I think this is why some guys are being able to breathe much better than others..these pumps only produce around 15 psi.
Very ingenious, as usual!!! Two questions/thoughts: a) does the double filter take care of removing condensation (which varies due to temperature) from the line, or how do you do that after you're finished cleaning the boat, and b) "Emerald Steel", their two-part Hookah set, reminded folks to not have a generator too close to the compressor so that exhaust gas doesn't get sucked into the compressor...Having seen all of your videos, multiple times, I know you don't take safety/quality issues in a hap-hazard or reckless fashion...
Thanks everyone for your comments. The water/particle filter goes after the compressor. Once dry air comes into the line I don't experience notable condensation building in the line but if worried about it you could add a second filter before the regulator. Here's a link to a similar filter if you want to research it more: www.ebay.com/itm/Hookah-Diving-Water-filter-and-quick-connect-NEW-LOWER-PRICE-JUNE-JULY/182920828703?hash=item2a96ee571f%3Ag%3A86sAAOSwSZFZyX9C&_sacat=0&_nkw=gator+gill+filter&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313 Good point to remind people not to run a gas generator next to the compressor, which is one of several reasons why I use a 12v compressor. With solar power, 400AH battery bank and the pump only using 7 amps, I don't have a reason to even own a generator. It's also a good idea to have someone on deck to monitor the compressor and assist as needed if there's any problem for the diver.
Sir, I often used in scuba diving, there is an eel in a glass-like box between the compressor and the pipe. What is it for? And if it is not, what is the benefit or harm?
what is the maximum dive depth you can achieve with this pumps pressure>? 15-20ft??? very curious if i could use it for gold sniping rivers 10-15ft deep thanks for your time and sharring
Because of a chronic sinus condition I have trouble diving below about 6' so I haven't tried it. It only provides just enough air for me as is so I doubt you could use it at 20'. I didn't notice any difference in the amount of air available on the surface or at 5' so I expect you could go at least to 10' and maybe deeper. I found I have to control my breathing using this minimal setup and think I would get better airflow with a different filter and lighter spring in the regulator because there is about twice the air flow out of the compressor to what I get when I connect the filter, 50' hose, and regulator..
I built this same unit. Added a adjustable pressure blow off and an air filter. When I inhale through the regulator I hear the pump change sound as if I'm taking more than is available. Any suggestions? Thank you
With the components I used there is just enough air available as long as you control your breathing. You will need to suck a bit harder towards the end of each breath to get the last bit of air out the hose before the pump has a chance to catch up while you are exhaling. You need to learn to control your breath with these low volume pumps. many people tend to unnecessarily slightly hyperventilate when under water. Also, maybe you have more restrictions than my setup due to your "pressure blow off" and type of air filter. Maybe try removing the pressure low off if there is any chance it restricts flow and try a less restrictive air filter.
I hate to steal anyone's thunder but I wouldn't use any tank unless it was Stainless Steel. Maybe a 1/4 bbl beer keg. I don't know what the pressure rating is on those so be careful. Not unless you like breathing air from a rusty tank I wouldn't use a pancake compressor or the like attached to a ferrous metal tank. I'm willing to bet they aren't coated on the inside. Even if it were when they welded the two halves together the paint would burn off where the bead is and paint flakes would clog everything. When you drain the condensate from the tank of a typical oil less air compressor look at the nasty, rusty water that comes out and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. That can't be good for your lungs. (CPOD) Even with that filter on it I wouldn't trust it. If you buy an decent filtration unit with a dryer on it for compressed air lines, you're looking at a staggering cost (Cost = quality) that will be more expensive than all the parts put together building the entire rig. Also the pump you recommended has gotten some horrible reviews. Even the higher capacity pump. I have a Porter-Cable pancake compressor that I may separate from the tank and try fitting to a 1/4 bbl beer keg once I find out the pressure rating on the vessel. That way the pressure regulator and the safety pop off valve is still in place.
Having watched this video, I bought this set-up to clean the drives on my boat. It works...but only just. I had to suck on the regulator hard enough that it was uncomfortable. I ended up upgrading it to a different compressor.
Thanks for the feedback. Your breathing requirements may be more than mine or these cheap Chinese compressors may have uneven output or the resistance of your regulator may be more. I notice that I have to suck on the regulator more than is comfortable but have gotten used to it and after having cleaned my boat bottom 4 times and another boat as well have several hours successful use on it now. I can appreciate your comment that it only just works.
@@believre A friend wanted the one in the video so when I built the second one I upgraded to the 910. I can't really tell a difference in the output though. Maybe just slightly better air flow. I noticed these pumps put out plenty of air until I connect the filter and regulator which restrict the flow a lot. Even so the 910 works OK for me.
I ended up getting this compressor... www.ebay.com/itm/Puma-12-Volt-1-5-Gallon-Oil-Less-Air-Compressor-Free-Shipping-Oiless-12V-/283005940134. It’s quite a bit bigger and sucks up 30 amps at 12v but it supplies plenty of air and feels like a regular scuba tank to breathe. It runs intermittently...four breaths on three breaths off. Thanks for the post.
This is the smallest pump that will provide enough air. More details are in the description above. I found that when you test the pump on the surface with no filter connected it seems like it has more air output than you'd need but then the air filter restricts the flow to just barely enough. And it's not safe to use without the filter. Also, once you are a couple feet underwater the flow is further reduced.
@@atomvoyager how are your temps on compressor? Do you run it more than 30 mins at a time? So you must have over 30 hours on it I am guessing, is performance the same or do you notice it does not deliver as much air..thanks again for sharing
@@roadstar499 The compressor and the air it delivers has never gotten hot but I never used it continuously for more than about 40 minutes. I didn't notice any lesser performance over time yet.
Hanperal 145 PSI Explorer Scuba Diving Dive 2nd Stage Regulator Octopus Hookah - $24 at: www.amazon.com/Hanperal-Explorer-Diving-Regulator-Octopus/dp/B01AL6UN22/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Hanperal+145+PSI+Explorer+Scuba+Diving+Dive+2nd+Stage+Regulator+Octopus+Hookah&qid=1595765282&sr=8-1 The hose on the regulator arrived with a strong rubber smell so I swapped just the hose for this one: www.divegearexpress.com/regulator-double-braided-flex-hose
Do they actually help? I’m looking at a 5 gallon air tank on eBay I wasn’t sure if I would be able to inhale more air from it once it’s filled I thought maybe it would equal the same amount of air draw. I bought an oil less pump once size bigger than his but it’s still “just enough” for me to inhale through just the hose
Check video "emerald steel" posted on the subject.I did exactly that and am very happy with how it works, the compressor is good quality, quiet and has enough air for two people
Assuming everything is working properly you need to control your breathing to slow steady draws. It's natural at first to breathe too fast but you should be able to slow it down. You say it supplies enough air but if not, the filter might be adding too much restriction. You could do a few test breaths without it to see the difference and if that's the problem maybe buy a less restrictive filter if possible.
@@atomvoyager thanks, I think Im just new and its cold water. I can sit and breathe fine for half an hour but it feels strange. Im not a diver but snorkeled quite a bit, its also not like the snorkel either. Yeah I just need to relax I think.
@@atomvoyager I found to regulator could use adjustment and one fellow has a video showing how this is done, not difficult. One might show the setting screw and how to adjust it.
@@UnknownDiver this is an oiless diaphragm compressor. An in-line filter is a good idea. At 7ml/kg in an adult male ‘at rest’ and a resp rate of ~12-16 breaths per minute, a 100kg male, at rest will need the full pump ‘rated capacity’ to not feel like you’re breathing through a straw. Adding the energy needed to clean the boat, and the added pressure of the water… I think you’re significantly under capacity. Putting a tank in the loop would be a good idea. Always scale up… you need the reserve for safety.
Hi James, I'm in the middle of building a copy of yours😄 I notice that the water &particles filter in your video seem to be attached in the opposite direction of what my supplier suggested. Do you have any issue with that? Trying to understand which direction is the correct way.
It's possible I got it backwards but I don't know that it matters. Blow into it from both directions and see. I would connect it according to your instructions.
Yes you could although I don't know if it would be OK to have one on while the other is off due to back pressure. You could add a shut-off valve between them if that was an issue or just have them both wired to one switch so both are always on or always off.
@@urgencepc4563 These pumps only produce about 15 psi of pressure. Water pressure at 30 feet is about 15psi, which means these pumps cannot push any air past 30 feet. Doubling up pumps will increase flow volume, but not maximum pressure. Multiple pumps would be good if you need more air within the 30 foot working envelope (multiple divers, heavy exertion), but will not allow you to go any deeper.
It draws 7 amps so if you had a single small 80 amp hour battery that you could discharge 50% then it would run for 5-6 hours continuous before you need to recharge the battery.
If the locals have not reported any shark attacks in the area (which would be extremely rare) I try not to worry and just get on with it. If in unknown anchorage in clear water near the reef where aggressive sharks might be I would ask a crew or someone off a nearby boat to sit on deck and scan the water and then knock on the hull to warn me if they spot anything. A thin full wetsuit will protect you from jellyfish stings. And I sometimes wear a dive knife on a leg strap.
+ atomvoyager Thanks for your video. Regarding the management of your umbilical (If you haven’t tried this already ?) without a second person to pay it in/out to you. Rather than throwing a heap of extra hose into the water ( as in your video), you may find it useful to lash/hang a couple ‘ horns ‘ outbound of your staunchions, so you can figure 8 your umbilical and manage the length( from the water). Not only will this reduce potential fouling/snagging of your umbilical but also reduce the chances of other vessels picking up your umbilical in their props. Thanks
All the “safety sallies” can chill out! He has an in-line filter and is only down about 15 ft. You get more potential garbage in your lungs at a bar with smokers. If the damn pump fails he can easily swim to the surface.
Same argument about carbon monoxide poisoning with little buddy space heaters. OSHA rates 30ppm over eight hours, but most people fail to recognize a gas burner stove cranks out about 600ppm ever second. 🤷🏼♂️ I could never get mine in a tight space over 36ppm and it was 115 degrees inside my camper.
The only thing you're missing is a safety tank inline with the hose containing some air volume at pressure to compensate for a failed compressor or a failed regulator and prevent flooding. It also prevents the possibility of forming a vacuum in the hose and sucking your lungs out in the event of a compressor motor malfunction. As a former naval submarine engineer and scuba diver, i have had the misfortune of seeing and experiencing some nasty incidents. I personally spent a few days in intensive care. Keep it safe
Thanks for the comment. I had considered adding a tank but I wanted to keep this simple and compact to store on a small boat. If someone is going deeper or using a stronger compressor then the added safety of a tank is a good idea. But at 4-foot max depth and having the smallest possible compressor the risk is less. I noticed that on each breath I am drawing down most of the built-up pressure in the hose so this thing is not capable of giving me too much air during a malfunction it seems. Even so, people should consider adding a tank for reserve air and safety.
Good reasoning for a shallow depth. As long as you're not tempted to go deeper. I figured the long hose might allow you to be tempted :-0 Lungs can draw 8 litres/2 gallons per second and then you need to multiply by pressure of say 1.12 at a 4 foot depth for a free flow from compressor. Then you have flow restriction in terms of the hose length, regulator and filter so you need to allow for more flow. So your pump would need to be capable of providing this peak flow at the least. I could do some calcs, but from your video, you said 2.5 L/s peak flow of the compressor? And that will be a wishful rating from the manufacturer at possibly 0 pressure. Diaphragm pumps lose a lot of efficiency as pressure increases. But I do see the benefit of your system with a careful and experienced user. Just dont ever sell it to someone unless you want to risk a lawsuit for duty of care etc. I like your channel. Very nice work on the boat modifications. Keep it going.
Good points. I appreciate the info. Maybe you had a typo in the 8L/sec rate. I'm not good on the math but let's say the air delivered by the compressor at 4 feet after all the restrictions of hose, filter, regulator is about 100L instead of the rated 150L. I checked my respiration rate when scrubbing vigorously is 22 breaths/min. Not sure of my lung capacity but my dive test showed I was using nearly all the air available. Assuming I used a peak of 100L/min means I was using only 1.66L/sec unless I have an error in my math. My numbers could be way off since I don't know my actual tidal volume or other numbers. The real world test did confirm my guess that this was the minimum size pump I needed.
You are correct in your calcs of 1.66 L/s but this is the mean (average) air flow rate. Human respiration is a pulsed waveform, so we need a high momentary flow rate. Typical lung capacity is 5-7L from memory, so to fill the lungs during rapid breathing, you need a lot more than 1.66L/s, unless you want to wait 4 seconds to fill your lungs for each breath. This is all at 1 atmospheric pressure. Naturally, the volume of air will change in accordance to depth and pressure in accordance with Boyle's Law. The 20 metre hose can store some air capacity, but that will only last a very short time before you have no pressure in the hose and the pump cannot keep up. If you start needing higher air flow rates from physical exertion, its going to feel like you're suffocating. So your system is good, but it is operating at its upper limits for a diver who is taking it easy. If there is a current, it may well struggle, but you could improve it with the addition of a floating pressure tank. This could even be a simple PVC pipe of 10L capacity, as operating pressure is low, and the stresses can be handled even by a basic PVC pipe with fittings. It will give the surge capacity so that you're not running low on pressurized air, whilst still using the existing pump.
Super Wag "Typical lung capacity is 5-7L from memory, so to fill the lungs during rapid breathing, you need a lot more than 1.66L/s..." Although the average adult male's total lung volume is about 6 liters, we don't -- and can't -- exhale and inhale our entire lung volume. The amount we actually breath in and out is called the tidal volume, and it's typically about 0.5 liter at rest and may increase to as much as 1 liter during heavy exertion. If we forcefully inhale and then exhale as much as we can, the volume of air exhaled -- called the vital capacity -- averages 4.6 liters in adult males.
A circuit breaker is not only a convenient on/off switch it acts as a fuse to prevent damage or fire during a short circuit. If you mean it's dangerous because it might trip while you're underwater, that shouldn't happen and if it does I can hear it stop through the hull and water at these shallow depths and even if I didn't I can come up before I need another breath.
The way he has it wired it really only functions as an on/off switch. The point of a circuit breaker is to protect the wiring, not the device. In this case, the most likely failure point is in the connector. Second most likely is something penetrating the wiring. The breaker, where it is in this example, will not help. So yes, it's dangerous. An inline fuse closer to the power source would solve this problem.
@@RonKuris Good point that the circuit breaker will not protect the wire between it and the power source but seems to me it does protect any shorts in wiring and motor on the other side. So yes, another fuse can be added at the other end for better protection.
@@atomvoyager shorts in the winding are extremely unlikely. Take one apart and see. A typical motor failure is almost always an open circuit. It is also possible that the motor will be "stuck" and it will draw a lot more current, but since you oversized the wires anyway, you aren't going to have a problem there. The chance of that starting a fire are very low. Circuit breakers really only protect the integrity of the insulation for the section of the circuit it's protecting. Consider adding an inline fuse as close to your clamps as possible and using your circuit breaker only as a switch. A battery mounted fuse is a good option.
You should buy yourself a portable air tank like people use to air up car tires with so you can run your compressor air into the tank and your air supply hose can connect to the air outlet that way you can at least have a back up supply of air that's in the tank such tanks only cost around $50 dollars . This was a good video
An air tank would of course be a good upgrade but I wanted the absolute smallest and most compact simple system to let me work at 4 feet depth for a brief period. And after having my wife do a test by cutting off the compressor while I was cleaning the bottom of the keel I found I'm comfortable with an unexpected loss of air flow, at least at that shallow depth. Someone could buy or make a small air tank though and that would make it safer and give more capacity.
These are diaphragm pumps. problem is, they compressing air directly from the 'brushed' motor/armature housing. also, they could fail any minute. I already had one fail on the test bench. Defective 'commutator' *Never would I rely on a single one of these pumps with my life.*
There is no need for a 150 liter per minute pump , a human being at most inhales 12 liters of air per minute, so it would be enough to use a 20 liter minute pump with a 1 liter storage tank with a maximum of 6 liters to compensate for the fast breathing in moments of fatigue. However your system is effective but can be improved to consume less current and spend less on the pump :)
I don't doubt your numbers. However these Chinese pumps have not been verified that their output is as stated by the manufacturer. They claim it draws 9 amps but mine only draws about 7 amps at 12.8v so looks like it is at least 25% over rated. And if as you say, we don't need anywhere near 150l/min, that confirms the pump rating is inaccurate. Maybe some of the loss is the restriction of filter, hose length, depth of dive, regulator spring resistance, and so on. In practice the pump, for whatever reason, is only barely giving me adequate air. I suck every last bit of air from the hose on each breath when working at 4'. Because I am using everything the pump delivers I don't think a small tank will help because it will always be empty. If the tank were large and you waited for it to fill it might help but I don't know for how long. I'm typically down for about 30 minutes to clean the bottom. It works OK for my use though.
@@atomvoyager Looking at the technical specifications of these pumps I noticed that the maximum pressure is only 1.12 MPA = 1 BAR +/- , if we consider that at a depth of 10 meters we have 1 atmosphere = approximately 1 BAR. here is the reason why he can't get his breathing properly. between the resistance of the filters and the pipes, at least 2 bars would be needed to have a good flow .....I was intent on buying one to build a respirator, but better to buy another type, perhaps with pistons without oil, .... thanks to you for sharing your experience!
I have used one of these for years but I used two pumps connected together. After a wile I got tired of hauling batteries and wired in an inverter so I could plug it in on the pier or use a battery If I had to. Now I use a standard air compressor and a low pressure regulator. 50 to 80 psi.
@@salvatorebarbaro5862 If we consider that he's going to be cleaning his boat at a depth of 10 metres then you are probably right. But it's a big boat. He's going to about 1.5 metres.
What's the mpa on it .12 let's see what that is ,say it 16psi and hooka ,browns 3 lung and every other product on the market are 30 psi minimum but average usually anything upto 50 psi .these pumps are not anywhere good enough for doing anything but supply air to pools an ponds . Buy the real deal cause .12 mpa will not do cause that's supplying no air in litres per min
The numbers listed may not be correct because in the real world test it actually worked fine. Or it may be that the other units are supplying much more capacity than what I need at 4-foot depth.
There's one for $23.29 now on ebay at Gator Gill Diving. The direct link is really long but you can find it currently listed if you search "Hookah Diving Airline filter kit combo" on ebay.
Bajar 15 metros de profundidad con este equipo sería quitarse la vida. solo se puede bajar máximo 5. Pasando 6 metros necesitas subirse lentamente y si algo falla con la bomba estás jodido. ocupas un sistema profesional ocon tanke de reserva o te ariesgas la vida.
The pump only draws 7 amps so if you only need to run it for a couple hours between charging the minimum size I guess would be a Group 27 auto or marine 12 volt of any type. You can go larger up to group 31 100 amp hour marine deep cycle AGM for longer run times.
If you click on Show More in the video description you'll see all the parts listed. On the amazon link to the pump it says Dimension (mm): 258 x 140 x 152mm
don't wast money and time,this setup can't work and have hazard to health,how much pressure this pump can make ? that is low pressure pump under 10 lb, I don't think it can drive the octopus well even on air.
I have no engineering knowledge whatsoever but my first instinct if ever I were to be challenged with an important job working on the bottom at sea, it is to rig a hose of not overtly long length and breath through it while my partner holds up the free open end securely. It would look like someone breathing through a long flexible but not collapsible reed. Won't that do? No need electricity. Of course, a proper scuba diving mouthpiece would be necessarily connected.
That won't work and that's why we go through all this trouble to set up these complicated devices. The max depth you can suck air through a hose is about 18 inches as explained in this thread: www.scubaboard.com/community/threads/long-snorkel-breathing.239020/
Hee hee, I tried that when I was 14 in a pool. I kept my thumb over a hose until I was well under, put the hose to to my mouth, and removed my thumb. It felt like my lungs were sucked out of my chest.
It works fine if your if you've got lungs of a mouse ,you must struggle with it an everyone who goes to buy one your recomending will struggle ,plus there should be an air bottle in between pump and you ,every system that's good that's on the market use this ,beleave me when I say it don't work ,you struggle ,non of mates could use it either, crap systems do not work ,blow out carbs ,what at 16psi ,probably make expensive inflatable pump
My friend boat bottom cleaning, was also using that same kind of air pump. He constantly complained the air taste awful. After a long day of diving he went to hospital, where they put him on a ventilator, for corrective measures. Use at your own risk, the pump designed for plants.
Fantastic, this seems like the simplest and least expensive way to rig one of these up for sailboat maintenance and I am going to give it a try.
I have always had concerns on diving on my boat while in a marina due to stray voltage from improper wiring in the marina or neighbor boats, this is great, I can scrub the bottom while in a anchorage! Much better than snorkeling! Thanks for posting, I am going to build one for my boat!
To clarify.... . Human lungs have 5 lobs of total capacity of 5 - 8 liters BUT when breathing ONLY one lob is in-healing the air hence 1.1 - 1.7 liter per breath and NOT 5 liters. One lobe after another is used for breathing NOT ALL at once. I'm totally surprised by the lack of this basic and important information. Got my scuba diving license in 1980 in Poland and still remember almost all what i'have learned. Thank you for sharing... will build it for my self. All the best.
Awsome friend you just saved me around $2000! Thank you
Those pumps are not continuous duty rated so when the teflon seals get scorching hot you will be breathing in some gaseous Teflon.
Water cool it with the ocean. That's how the commercial ones do it.
Looked a bit precarious.
But I suppose as you're not actually totally dependent on it to breathe with no other option. it's ok in such shallow depths, you can surface any time.
So really cleverly put together at a great price. Thanks for sharing.
I built essentially the same system but used the smaller 906 compressor, I use it for underwater metal detecting to 10/12 ft, I changed to a lighter spring in the regulator for easier breathing, I also have a hose setup without a regulator but use a reconfigured snorkel with purge valve, this is an open system so air is always flowing, very easy to breath and good for when working hard, I used cheaper clear food grade hose. This compressor works well but MUST be disassembled and cleaned up a bit before use, the castings are rough and dirty, don’t use without a filter!!
That's very creative and good to know. My regulator is also harder to draw a breath on than it should be so I'll try to find a lighter spring.
Peter Nicholls yes and I adjusted it as low as possible but still needed a lighter spring, the pressure is very low and it took a bit of tweaking to get it so the air flowed easily without leaking past the valve
Many thanks... I've ordered the parts... Will help to clean the bottom of my 35' sailboat
Yep, looks like Coastal Georgia water to me. Great idea. I've seen several Cruisers struggling with bottom scraping and holding their breaths. This makes great sense. Once again your common sense is at work.
You probably don't need the regulator. Just run the hose into the snorkel and let the air flow out your mouth. Breathe from it as needed. A similar system operates in large aquariums where mermaids breathe from an air hose. When I was young, I built a very simple rig from a DeVilbiss air compressor, garden hose, and snorkel and used it as I cleaned our swimming pool.
Is this a joke lol
'Small Cell Carcinoma' be sure to flush the lungs out good.
Curious how this has lasted 2 years on. I'm about to build a hookah and have ordered a low pressure 2nd stage reg (IP 50psi). My main drive like you is power consumption, aside from staying alive. The thing I worry about with the compressor mentioned is that it seems to be designed for unrestricted air flow thru aquarium stones. That would make it an air PUMP and not a compressor at all. Does it vent off at all under pressure if you never open the reg? I assume when you aren't taking a breath it compresses the air in the hose up to the point where the rubber diaphragm is forced to deform in order to pump nothing, or the electric motor would have to be physically held by the pressure on the diaphragm to a stop which would be very bad. It may have been built as a compressor and just used for aquariums or maybe not. I might try it with a variable relief valve so anything over mouthpiece pressure is just vented off.
I don't know the inner workings of the pump but it continues to work OK. It does not appear to vent itself when running with no air being drawn and that has not damaged it yet. I sold the original after one year and about 10 hours use bottom cleaning at a max of 4 feet to a friend who was sailing from CA to Mexico and didn't have time to order and build his own. He told me a week ago that he has used it for a year and put several more hours on it and is very happy with it. Besides bottom cleaning he used it while underway to cut free a fish trap line wrapped around his prop. I found I needed every bit of air it could provide and had to learn to control my breathing because at first I tended to hyperventilate slightly as I worked and felt like I wasn't getting enough air. Once I calmed down and got comfortable with the amount of air and the restriction of having to suck it out of the regulator resistance at the beginning and the lesser air flow towards the end of each breath as the pressure went to near zero I was fine with it. I would not add a relief valve unless because you want it to build up all the pressure it's capable of between breaths to give you max volume available and because apparently it is not needed. When I replaced mine I used the slightly larger capacity ACQ-910 but could not tell any difference in output or power draw or maybe there was just a very small improvement. Anyway, these pumps put out a lot of air until you connect the air filter which restricts the flow so if you could find a less restrictive filter it might work better.
@@atomvoyager Thanks for the reply. I wish I could find something comparable around twice the size. This one draws less than my laptop, and even twice the wattage up to 300w, I could run off my solar. I'm realizing the bigger cheap oilless use pistons with teflon rings, which does not make me comfortable. I was happy to pay a diver to deal with this but they always flake out and it doesn't get done... Cheers
James, thanks for this....I always look forward to a new video from you and I enjoy your books as well. Ken in St. Pete
if i may, i have s couple of things for you to think about. The air being pumped may have oil contaminates from the pump, if you can, its best to put a filter in there, you should be ok for now as the length of hose will hold most of that back, but at some point its going to get to you. Also maybe a small bag reservoir, inside a container as close to the regulator as is comfortable, this should protect from over pressure if that manages to happen for whatever reason as well as give you a more comfortable escape if the pump stops. i wouldn't go below more than a meter with compressed air, if you can help it.
Hey how can the air have oil in it? I just started using mine and I don’t like how I’m feeling afterwards, I thought these were “oil less” but I’m def feeling like crap
Hello, I purchased a partical/moisture filter like the one you have and installed and tested and air does not seem restricted at all...Question are you sure that your filter is installed correctly...I see know diagrams or flow direction arrows on unit...also any information on maintenance of filter? I do see gator gill sells replacement fillers...does your filter screw apart? Just not sure and don't want to break mine...ps fine tuning the reg and adding an extra air tank made a huge difference using my 160 lpm pump..I actually bought a 2 gallon pump sprayer I converted to air tank...these pumps only produce around 28 psi.
Thanks for your help...😊
I believe I have the filter installed correctly and haven't felt the need to clean it or take it apart since the flow rate hasn't changed since it was new. There was no info on maintenance of it so try to contact Gator Gill or some other retailer of similar filters or hookah dealers. It could be that your 160 pump works better than my 150 and maybe the tank helps. I haven't experimented with a tank because I wanted the least bulky and simplest system to store on a small boat and I figured that since I used all the air it could output that if I used a tank it would be depleted quick and give no advantage after that. But I could be mistaken.
@@atomvoyager as long you are happy with it,is all that matters..thanks
@@atomvoyager to my knowledge it is better to separate the particles first, for example a wayward piece of aluminium getting spewed out of the engine as it gets older and worn, than for it to go through the water separator filter first. It just makes common sense not to overload the water separator with large particles in the first instance, it is not designed to manage that otherwise. Just what I have deduced, I am in the process of putting the gill filters on my Chinese bought version.
my filter is made for 'activated charcoal' it screws apart.
Thanks for including a parts list.
I would do something a little different with that flimsy little piece of hose, coming right out of the air compressor, looks like it could be easily pinched off.
Hi..thanks for this video. I just got the stuff to do it...question...if the line gets blocked/bent does the pump have a bypass or shutoff that keeps it from jamming...thanks again
The pump does have some self-limiting pressure regulation so that it won't damage it it you kink a hose. The pump will keep running and as soon as you unkink it then the air flow will resume.
Hey thanks for making this vid. I bought all the stuff and I think I will add a tank too. I have seen the talk of adjusting the regulator but I can't find anywhere on it how to adjust it (that make and model)@@atomvoyager
@@frecou6275 There is no adjustment for the regulator because it is factory set by a spring. For low pressure hookah use it would help if you could take it to a dive shop, explain what it is for and ask if they can swap out the spring for a weaker spring to make breathing easier. It's not necessary though so you should use it as is first and maybe, like me, you'll find that you don't need to adjust it.
Ok Thanks again@@atomvoyager
I am building a floating 12v hookah system for snorkeling. I see that this pump is made to run continuously. I'd like to connect it to 2-4 gallon tank with a pressure valve that turns the pump on at 70psi and off @ 110psi. How does the pump handle when you have the hose connected to parts blower and allow the pressure to build up?
The pump does not shut itself off when it reaches its highest pressure and I don't know what mechanism it uses other than it just keeps trying to pump even though the regulator is not being drawn on or a blower attachment is connected but not being used. I haven't connected a pressure gauge to see what pressure it holds at. Maybe someone else can explain what's going on and how it might work with a tank and on/off switching.
Have a look at this ua-cam.com/video/G8dPTZ1J5cA/v-deo.html
@@atomvoyager This kind of pump, or even a normal compressor, has a maximum pressure and volumetric efficiency. At atmospheric pressure the volume of air displaced inside by the diaphragm (or piston in a regular compressor) can come straight out the outlet. When the pressure builds up on the outlet hose, the air in side only comes out once the line pressure is reached onside. The remaining air inside just expands again, reducing the amount coming in on the next stroke. That means that the pressure is self limiting without any relief valve. It's the same as when you use a bicycle pump to pump up a high pressure tyre. It gets to a pressure where it just doesn't go anywhere.
Una pregunta y no hay problema con la presión de aire y si tienes buena presión a 20 metros de profundidad
I use that regulator on a Hudson tank I jus used electrical tape to thread it to the tank and it works well I can be under water constantly breathing for 2 mins in 5 feet of water
You covered a lot that is very helpful since I myself am building a very similar hookah using a 120w 160 out put rated motor...can you tell me if you needed to adjust regulator for better breathing? Also was there plenty of air delivery? What was your deepest testing? I am hoping my units air delivery is good up to 20 foot if needed...thanks again for all the great tips
..I need to buy a filter like you use...any idea on where or what it's called exactly? Thanks again.
My 150 liter output produced only just enough air for me at the 5' max depth I tried it so I doubt yours will work at 20'. But it could have more to do with the air filter restricting flow too much on this small output compressor. If you could find a less restrictive air filter that still delivered safe air then that may help. I have heard that switching the regulator spring to a lighter spring could help but I didn't try that and there's no other adjustment available that I know of. As noted in the descrption above, you can buy a filter on ebay. Here's one like what I used: www.ebay.com/itm/285188537516
@@atomvoyager I have that cheap yellow reg from Amazon and figured out how to adjust it ...I think this is why some guys are being able to breathe much better than others..these pumps only produce around 15 psi.
I tested the same pump, two persons hyperventilating rapidly, always air. BUT..I have 2 X 2L food grade soda bottles as reservoir.
Awesome!!! This is something I have been looking into. Thanks for giving me some shortcuts. :D
Very ingenious, as usual!!! Two questions/thoughts: a) does the double filter take care of removing condensation (which varies due to temperature) from the line, or how do you do that after you're finished cleaning the boat, and b) "Emerald Steel", their two-part Hookah set, reminded folks to not have a generator too close to the compressor so that exhaust gas doesn't get sucked into the compressor...Having seen all of your videos, multiple times, I know you don't take safety/quality issues in a hap-hazard or reckless fashion...
Thanks everyone for your comments. The water/particle filter goes after the compressor. Once dry air comes into the line I don't experience notable condensation building in the line but if worried about it you could add a second filter before the regulator. Here's a link to a similar filter if you want to research it more:
www.ebay.com/itm/Hookah-Diving-Water-filter-and-quick-connect-NEW-LOWER-PRICE-JUNE-JULY/182920828703?hash=item2a96ee571f%3Ag%3A86sAAOSwSZFZyX9C&_sacat=0&_nkw=gator+gill+filter&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
Good point to remind people not to run a gas generator next to the compressor, which is one of several reasons why I use a 12v compressor. With solar power, 400AH battery bank and the pump only using 7 amps, I don't have a reason to even own a generator. It's also a good idea to have someone on deck to monitor the compressor and assist as needed if there's any problem for the diver.
I forgot to ask you how long you ran it and if it got hot..it may need cooling fan etc to perform better..thanks
No it's fine as is.
I installed a radiator with computer cooling fans, lake/sea, water pump circulates the water. The enclosure stays cool inside.
Install a bladder to breathe from. Patrick Childress has a great video of his hookah system.
Sir, I often used in scuba diving, there is an eel in a glass-like box between the compressor and the pipe. What is it for? And if it is not, what is the benefit or harm?
It's a water and particle filter listed in the video description above.
what is the maximum dive depth you can achieve with this pumps pressure>? 15-20ft??? very curious if i could use it for gold sniping rivers 10-15ft deep
thanks for your time and sharring
Because of a chronic sinus condition I have trouble diving below about 6' so I haven't tried it. It only provides just enough air for me as is so I doubt you could use it at 20'. I didn't notice any difference in the amount of air available on the surface or at 5' so I expect you could go at least to 10' and maybe deeper. I found I have to control my breathing using this minimal setup and think I would get better airflow with a different filter and lighter spring in the regulator because there is about twice the air flow out of the compressor to what I get when I connect the filter, 50' hose, and regulator..
i forgot there is a boat hooka , first time i thought , hei parhaps some people like hooka so much they smoke it underwater
Yo ya me compré una bomba cómo la de video y el regulador .y muy pronto lo voy hacer haber si funciona
I built this same unit. Added a adjustable pressure blow off and an air filter.
When I inhale through the regulator I hear the pump change sound as if I'm taking more than is available.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
With the components I used there is just enough air available as long as you control your breathing. You will need to suck a bit harder towards the end of each breath to get the last bit of air out the hose before the pump has a chance to catch up while you are exhaling. You need to learn to control your breath with these low volume pumps. many people tend to unnecessarily slightly hyperventilate when under water. Also, maybe you have more restrictions than my setup due to your "pressure blow off" and type of air filter. Maybe try removing the pressure low off if there is any chance it restricts flow and try a less restrictive air filter.
Does the pump have a pressure shut-off in case you wanted to add an air reservoir?
No, it keeps running. But you can still add a small tank.
I hate to steal anyone's thunder but I wouldn't use any tank unless it was Stainless Steel. Maybe a 1/4 bbl beer keg. I don't know what the pressure rating is on those so be careful. Not unless you like breathing air from a rusty tank I wouldn't use a pancake compressor or the like attached to a ferrous metal tank. I'm willing to bet they aren't coated on the inside. Even if it were when they welded the two halves together the paint would burn off where the bead is and paint flakes would clog everything. When you drain the condensate from the tank of a typical oil less air compressor look at the nasty, rusty water that comes out and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. That can't be good for your lungs. (CPOD) Even with that filter on it I wouldn't trust it. If you buy an decent filtration unit with a dryer on it for compressed air lines, you're looking at a staggering cost (Cost = quality) that will be more expensive than all the parts put together building the entire rig. Also the pump you recommended has gotten some horrible reviews. Even the higher capacity pump. I have a Porter-Cable pancake compressor that I may separate from the tank and try fitting to a 1/4 bbl beer keg once I find out the pressure rating on the vessel. That way the pressure regulator and the safety pop off valve is still in place.
Hello, I am from Türkiye🇹🇷, can you write me the names of the parts in order?
Having watched this video, I bought this set-up to clean the drives on my boat. It works...but only just. I had to suck on the regulator hard enough that it was uncomfortable. I ended up upgrading it to a different compressor.
Thanks for the feedback. Your breathing requirements may be more than mine or these cheap Chinese compressors may have uneven output or the resistance of your regulator may be more. I notice that I have to suck on the regulator more than is comfortable but have gotten used to it and after having cleaned my boat bottom 4 times and another boat as well have several hours successful use on it now. I can appreciate your comment that it only just works.
What compressor id you upgrade to? The ACQ-910?
@@believre A friend wanted the one in the video so when I built the second one I upgraded to the 910. I can't really tell a difference in the output though. Maybe just slightly better air flow. I noticed these pumps put out plenty of air until I connect the filter and regulator which restrict the flow a lot. Even so the 910 works OK for me.
I ended up getting this compressor... www.ebay.com/itm/Puma-12-Volt-1-5-Gallon-Oil-Less-Air-Compressor-Free-Shipping-Oiless-12V-/283005940134. It’s quite a bit bigger and sucks up 30 amps at 12v but it supplies plenty of air and feels like a regular scuba tank to breathe. It runs intermittently...four breaths on three breaths off. Thanks for the post.
check our compressor
Can I use the smaller pump 60-80L/min ? or do I have to use 150L/min like you,Will a small air pump be enough for me to breathe?
This is the smallest pump that will provide enough air. More details are in the description above. I found that when you test the pump on the surface with no filter connected it seems like it has more air output than you'd need but then the air filter restricts the flow to just barely enough. And it's not safe to use without the filter. Also, once you are a couple feet underwater the flow is further reduced.
4 years later and what do you think about your hookah? I'm thinking about doing but the water in SF bay is dam dark it freaks me out lol.
I haven't had any issues with the two I've built but they only get light use about 3-4 times per year.
@@atomvoyager how are your temps on compressor? Do you run it more than 30 mins at a time? So you must have over 30 hours on it I am guessing, is performance the same or do you notice it does not deliver as much air..thanks again for sharing
@@roadstar499 The compressor and the air it delivers has never gotten hot but I never used it continuously for more than about 40 minutes. I didn't notice any lesser performance over time yet.
@@atomvoyager all good to know..thanks.
Aí amigo quanto custa esse kit aí completo
You need to assemble the components yourself from the list in the description and they cost approximately $300.
Olá, eu tenho um prá vender, se lhe interessar
Can you let me know the name and model of the mouth piece you used thank you
Hanperal 145 PSI Explorer Scuba Diving Dive 2nd Stage Regulator Octopus Hookah - $24 at:
www.amazon.com/Hanperal-Explorer-Diving-Regulator-Octopus/dp/B01AL6UN22/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Hanperal+145+PSI+Explorer+Scuba+Diving+Dive+2nd+Stage+Regulator+Octopus+Hookah&qid=1595765282&sr=8-1
The hose on the regulator arrived with a strong rubber smell so I swapped just the hose for this one:
www.divegearexpress.com/regulator-double-braided-flex-hose
You should have a reservoir
Do they actually help? I’m looking at a 5 gallon air tank on eBay I wasn’t sure if I would be able to inhale more air from it once it’s filled I thought maybe it would equal the same amount of air draw. I bought an oil less pump once size bigger than his but it’s still “just enough” for me to inhale through just the hose
Check video "emerald steel" posted on the subject.I did exactly that and am very happy with how it works, the compressor is good quality, quiet and has enough air for two people
I built this and I am breathing through it but feel like Im hyperventilating and sort of dizzy It makes enough air but feels weird.
Assuming everything is working properly you need to control your breathing to slow steady draws. It's natural at first to breathe too fast but you should be able to slow it down. You say it supplies enough air but if not, the filter might be adding too much restriction. You could do a few test breaths without it to see the difference and if that's the problem maybe buy a less restrictive filter if possible.
@@atomvoyager thanks, I think Im just new and its cold water. I can sit and breathe fine for half an hour but it feels strange. Im not a diver but snorkeled quite a bit, its also not like the snorkel either. Yeah I just need to relax I think.
Probably because you're breathing in oils and gasses from using an air compressor not designed for breathing air.
You could pass out at depth
@@atomvoyager I found to regulator could use adjustment and one fellow has a video showing how this is done, not difficult. One might show the setting screw and how to adjust it.
@@UnknownDiver this is an oiless diaphragm compressor. An in-line filter is a good idea. At 7ml/kg in an adult male ‘at rest’ and a resp rate of ~12-16 breaths per minute, a 100kg male, at rest will need the full pump ‘rated capacity’ to not feel like you’re breathing through a straw. Adding the energy needed to clean the boat, and the added pressure of the water… I think you’re significantly under capacity.
Putting a tank in the loop would be a good idea. Always scale up… you need the reserve for safety.
Excellent overview as usual...lot to learn from this channel. Well done and again tks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Hi James, I'm in the middle of building a copy of yours😄
I notice that the water &particles filter in your video seem to be attached in the opposite direction of what my supplier suggested.
Do you have any issue with that? Trying to understand which direction is the correct way.
It's possible I got it backwards but I don't know that it matters. Blow into it from both directions and see. I would connect it according to your instructions.
Could you put two of those pumps in parrallel?
Yes you could although I don't know if it would be OK to have one on while the other is off due to back pressure. You could add a shut-off valve between them if that was an issue or just have them both wired to one switch so both are always on or always off.
@@atomvoyager Oh the idea was to have both on at the same time to increase air pressure to go deeper underwater.
@@urgencepc4563 These pumps only produce about 15 psi of pressure. Water pressure at 30 feet is about 15psi, which means these pumps cannot push any air past 30 feet. Doubling up pumps will increase flow volume, but not maximum pressure. Multiple pumps would be good if you need more air within the 30 foot working envelope (multiple divers, heavy exertion), but will not allow you to go any deeper.
@@jarrodmahon3833 Thanks!
Hi, how long compressor works on battery when it is on boat?
It draws 7 amps so if you had a single small 80 amp hour battery that you could discharge 50% then it would run for 5-6 hours continuous before you need to recharge the battery.
@@atomvoyagerThank you so much
Do you ever worry about sharks or marine life while you’re working on your hull and not watching your back?
If the locals have not reported any shark attacks in the area (which would be extremely rare) I try not to worry and just get on with it. If in unknown anchorage in clear water near the reef where aggressive sharks might be I would ask a crew or someone off a nearby boat to sit on deck and scan the water and then knock on the hull to warn me if they spot anything. A thin full wetsuit will protect you from jellyfish stings. And I sometimes wear a dive knife on a leg strap.
+ atomvoyager Thanks for your video. Regarding the management of your umbilical (If you haven’t tried this already ?) without a second person to pay it in/out to you. Rather than throwing a heap of extra hose into the water ( as in your video), you may find it useful to lash/hang a couple ‘ horns ‘ outbound of your staunchions, so you can figure 8 your umbilical and manage the length( from the water). Not only will this reduce potential fouling/snagging of your umbilical but also reduce the chances of other vessels picking up your umbilical in their props. Thanks
All the “safety sallies” can chill out! He has an in-line filter and is only down about 15 ft. You get more potential garbage in your lungs at a bar with smokers. If the damn pump fails he can easily swim to the surface.
Jon McNabb Tour totally right he could also buy an air reserve tank!
The same people probably smoke or drink and all of a sudden they are a safety Nazi
Same argument about carbon monoxide poisoning with little buddy space heaters. OSHA rates 30ppm over eight hours, but most people fail to recognize a gas burner stove cranks out about 600ppm ever second. 🤷🏼♂️ I could never get mine in a tight space over 36ppm and it was 115 degrees inside my camper.
If a use a battery how much time I will have to diving?
You'll probably get about 4 hours on a fully charged medium size car battery and about double that on a larger marine battery.
The only thing you're missing is a safety tank inline with the hose containing some air volume at pressure to compensate for a failed compressor or a failed regulator and prevent flooding. It also prevents the possibility of forming a vacuum in the hose and sucking your lungs out in the event of a compressor motor malfunction.
As a former naval submarine engineer and scuba diver, i have had the misfortune of seeing and experiencing some nasty incidents. I personally spent a few days in intensive care. Keep it safe
Thanks for the comment. I had considered adding a tank but I wanted to keep this simple and compact to store on a small boat. If someone is going deeper or using a stronger compressor then the added safety of a tank is a good idea. But at 4-foot max depth and having the smallest possible compressor the risk is less. I noticed that on each breath I am drawing down most of the built-up pressure in the hose so this thing is not capable of giving me too much air during a malfunction it seems. Even so, people should consider adding a tank for reserve air and safety.
Good reasoning for a shallow depth. As long as you're not tempted to go deeper. I figured the long hose might allow you to be tempted :-0
Lungs can draw 8 litres/2 gallons per second and then you need to multiply by pressure of say 1.12 at a 4 foot depth for a free flow from compressor. Then you have flow restriction in terms of the hose length, regulator and filter so you need to allow for more flow. So your pump would need to be capable of providing this peak flow at the least. I could do some calcs, but from your video, you said 2.5 L/s peak flow of the compressor? And that will be a wishful rating from the manufacturer at possibly 0 pressure. Diaphragm pumps lose a lot of efficiency as pressure increases. But I do see the benefit of your system with a careful and experienced user. Just dont ever sell it to someone unless you want to risk a lawsuit for duty of care etc.
I like your channel. Very nice work on the boat modifications. Keep it going.
Good points. I appreciate the info. Maybe you had a typo in the 8L/sec rate. I'm not good on the math but let's say the air delivered by the compressor at 4 feet after all the restrictions of hose, filter, regulator is about 100L instead of the rated 150L. I checked my respiration rate when scrubbing vigorously is 22 breaths/min. Not sure of my lung capacity but my dive test showed I was using nearly all the air available. Assuming I used a peak of 100L/min means I was using only 1.66L/sec unless I have an error in my math. My numbers could be way off since I don't know my actual tidal volume or other numbers. The real world test did confirm my guess that this was the minimum size pump I needed.
You are correct in your calcs of 1.66 L/s but this is the mean (average) air flow rate. Human respiration is a pulsed waveform, so we need a high momentary flow rate. Typical lung capacity is 5-7L from memory, so to fill the lungs during rapid breathing, you need a lot more than 1.66L/s, unless you want to wait 4 seconds to fill your lungs for each breath. This is all at 1 atmospheric pressure. Naturally, the volume of air will change in accordance to depth and pressure in accordance with Boyle's Law. The 20 metre hose can store some air capacity, but that will only last a very short time before you have no pressure in the hose and the pump cannot keep up. If you start needing higher air flow rates from physical exertion, its going to feel like you're suffocating.
So your system is good, but it is operating at its upper limits for a diver who is taking it easy. If there is a current, it may well struggle, but you could improve it with the addition of a floating pressure tank. This could even be a simple PVC pipe of 10L capacity, as operating pressure is low, and the stresses can be handled even by a basic PVC pipe with fittings. It will give the surge capacity so that you're not running low on pressurized air, whilst still using the existing pump.
Super Wag "Typical lung capacity is 5-7L from memory, so to fill the lungs during rapid breathing, you need a lot more than 1.66L/s..."
Although the average adult male's total lung volume is about 6 liters, we don't -- and can't -- exhale and inhale our entire lung volume. The amount we actually breath in and out is called the tidal volume, and it's typically about 0.5 liter at rest and may increase to as much as 1 liter during heavy exertion. If we forcefully inhale and then exhale as much as we can, the volume of air exhaled -- called the vital capacity -- averages 4.6 liters in adult males.
why a circuit breaker? isnt that dangerous?
A circuit breaker is not only a convenient on/off switch it acts as a fuse to prevent damage or fire during a short circuit. If you mean it's dangerous because it might trip while you're underwater, that shouldn't happen and if it does I can hear it stop through the hull and water at these shallow depths and even if I didn't I can come up before I need another breath.
The way he has it wired it really only functions as an on/off switch. The point of a circuit breaker is to protect the wiring, not the device. In this case, the most likely failure point is in the connector. Second most likely is something penetrating the wiring. The breaker, where it is in this example, will not help.
So yes, it's dangerous. An inline fuse closer to the power source would solve this problem.
@@RonKuris Good point that the circuit breaker will not protect the wire between it and the power source but seems to me it does protect any shorts in wiring and motor on the other side. So yes, another fuse can be added at the other end for better protection.
@@atomvoyager shorts in the winding are extremely unlikely. Take one apart and see. A typical motor failure is almost always an open circuit. It is also possible that the motor will be "stuck" and it will draw a lot more current, but since you oversized the wires anyway, you aren't going to have a problem there. The chance of that starting a fire are very low.
Circuit breakers really only protect the integrity of the insulation for the section of the circuit it's protecting. Consider adding an inline fuse as close to your clamps as possible and using your circuit breaker only as a switch. A battery mounted fuse is a good option.
Cuántos metros de mangueras usastes para tu equipo
Very crafty! 🐠🐡
You should buy yourself a portable air tank like people use to air up car tires with so you can run your compressor air into the tank and your air supply hose can connect to the air outlet that way you can at least have a back up supply of air that's in the tank such tanks only cost around $50 dollars . This was a good video
An air tank would of course be a good upgrade but I wanted the absolute smallest and most compact simple system to let me work at 4 feet depth for a brief period. And after having my wife do a test by cutting off the compressor while I was cleaning the bottom of the keel I found I'm comfortable with an unexpected loss of air flow, at least at that shallow depth. Someone could buy or make a small air tank though and that would make it safer and give more capacity.
I love your videos. You do wonders.
These are diaphragm pumps. problem is, they compressing air directly from the 'brushed' motor/armature housing. also, they could fail any minute. I already had one fail on the test bench. Defective 'commutator' *Never would I rely on a single one of these pumps with my life.*
Eh. If it's safe to breathe who cares. Even the bottom of a coast guard cutter isn't that far from the surface.
There is no need for a 150 liter per minute pump , a human being at most inhales 12 liters of air per minute, so it would be enough to use a 20 liter minute pump with a 1 liter storage tank with a maximum of 6 liters to compensate for the fast breathing in moments of fatigue. However your system is effective but can be improved to consume less current and spend less on the pump :)
I don't doubt your numbers. However these Chinese pumps have not been verified that their output is as stated by the manufacturer. They claim it draws 9 amps but mine only draws about 7 amps at 12.8v so looks like it is at least 25% over rated. And if as you say, we don't need anywhere near 150l/min, that confirms the pump rating is inaccurate. Maybe some of the loss is the restriction of filter, hose length, depth of dive, regulator spring resistance, and so on. In practice the pump, for whatever reason, is only barely giving me adequate air. I suck every last bit of air from the hose on each breath when working at 4'. Because I am using everything the pump delivers I don't think a small tank will help because it will always be empty. If the tank were large and you waited for it to fill it might help but I don't know for how long. I'm typically down for about 30 minutes to clean the bottom. It works OK for my use though.
@@atomvoyager Looking at the technical specifications of these pumps I noticed that the maximum pressure is only 1.12 MPA = 1 BAR +/- , if we consider that at a depth of 10 meters we have 1 atmosphere = approximately 1 BAR. here is the reason why he can't get his breathing properly. between the resistance of the filters and the pipes, at least 2 bars would be needed to have a good flow .....I was intent on buying one to build a respirator, but better to buy another type, perhaps with pistons without oil, .... thanks to you for sharing your experience!
@@salvatorebarbaro5862 two bars right? At sea level we have one bar (1 atm).
I have used one of these for years but I used two pumps connected together. After a wile I got tired of hauling batteries and wired in an inverter so I could plug it in on the pier or use a battery If I had to. Now I use a standard air compressor and a low pressure regulator. 50 to 80 psi.
@@salvatorebarbaro5862 If we consider that he's going to be cleaning his boat at a depth of 10 metres then you are probably right. But it's a big boat. He's going to about 1.5 metres.
What's the mpa on it .12 let's see what that is ,say it 16psi and hooka ,browns 3 lung and every other product on the market are 30 psi minimum but average usually anything upto 50 psi .these pumps are not anywhere good enough for doing anything but supply air to pools an ponds . Buy the real deal cause .12 mpa will not do cause that's supplying no air in litres per min
The numbers listed may not be correct because in the real world test it actually worked fine. Or it may be that the other units are supplying much more capacity than what I need at 4-foot depth.
I just got a ACQ-910 its a little bigger then the ACQ-908 Do you have a air filter between the pump and the air line if you do what is it?
There's one for $23.29 now on ebay at Gator Gill Diving. The direct link is really long but you can find it currently listed if you search "Hookah Diving Airline filter kit combo" on ebay.
Yo la necesito para pescar con arpón para una profundidad de 15 metros.
Bajar 15 metros de profundidad con este equipo sería quitarse la vida. solo se puede bajar máximo 5. Pasando 6 metros necesitas subirse lentamente y si algo falla con la bomba estás jodido. ocupas un sistema profesional ocon tanke de reserva o te ariesgas la vida.
If i want put battery which one i have buy?
The pump only draws 7 amps so if you only need to run it for a couple hours between charging the minimum size I guess would be a Group 27 auto or marine 12 volt of any type. You can go larger up to group 31 100 amp hour marine deep cycle AGM for longer run times.
@@atomvoyager i want buy 120watt and 160l/m little bit more power than yours
If i want to run for example 2 hours i need battery 14 amp right?
And how many meters deep you can go maximum?
@@frenkscorpion You would consume 14 AH in 2 hours so any small car battery should handle that.
What is the size of this machine?
If you click on Show More in the video description you'll see all the parts listed. On the amazon link to the pump it says Dimension (mm): 258 x 140 x 152mm
Loved this. Great info!
don't wast money and time,this setup can't work and have hazard to health,how much pressure this pump can make ? that is low pressure pump under 10 lb, I don't think it can drive the octopus well even on air.
I was a stupid kid only a couple years ago. I swam under a marina for the hell of it. I never thought about it until after the fact lol
I have no engineering knowledge whatsoever but my first instinct if ever I were to be challenged with an important job working on the bottom at sea, it is to rig a hose of not overtly long length and breath through it while my partner holds up the free open end securely. It would look like someone breathing through a long flexible but not collapsible reed. Won't that do? No need electricity. Of course, a proper scuba diving mouthpiece would be necessarily connected.
That won't work and that's why we go through all this trouble to set up these complicated devices. The max depth you can suck air through a hose is about 18 inches as explained in this thread:
www.scubaboard.com/community/threads/long-snorkel-breathing.239020/
@@atomvoyager 18 inches? Thank you for being so helpful with your knowledge. Really appreciated.
You would suffocate to death if you could possibly even breathe through 50 ft of hose you would be breathing your own CO2 anyways 🤣
Hee hee, I tried that when I was 14 in a pool. I kept my thumb over a hose until I was well under, put the hose to to my mouth, and removed my thumb. It felt like my lungs were sucked out of my chest.
Excellent!
top man LOVE THIS
THANKS.
Use a filter, who knows what your breathing in.
Very Good.
🤙
There are lots of different ways to clean your boat in the water, be careful.
It works fine if your if you've got lungs of a mouse ,you must struggle with it an everyone who goes to buy one your recomending will struggle ,plus there should be an air bottle in between pump and you ,every system that's good that's on the market use this ,beleave me when I say it don't work ,you struggle ,non of mates could use it either, crap systems do not work ,blow out carbs ,what at 16psi ,probably make expensive inflatable pump
I use paper on my bottom