Time passes, Everything changes, Life goes on And we get older. Nothing stays the same. Thanks to everyone who supports the channel! www.patreon.com/RobertTolone
The fuuu...? Seeing toys you had as a kid, and finding out the channel you discovered as an adult is the same person that designed or painted them is definitely an odd moment.
That's a beautiful painting. I wonder if it's possible to color something so it doesn't fade at all. Slowing it down, sure, and not keeping things where light can even touch them is nice, but nothing is perfect. I think that the only way may be structural paint. Like that blue butterfly that only looks blue because of the way it reflects the light rather than any pigment.
That's a really great painting. And I'm pretty sure my sister had those Lion King figurines when we were kids. That's pretty awesome those are your designs.
Doing the type of casting I've done, I had to figure out how to stabilize colors since the finished product would be resin. Painting wasn't an option, as paint flakes off and these were finished works intended to be handled. Polytek makes a UV stabilizer that works fantastic. It doesn't stop the yellowing but it slows it waaaay down. you don't need very much either. I have pieces that are about 15 years old that are only minorly yellowed. Smooth-on has also released Uvo colors that have a UV stabilizer in the dye and I've found that it works in 3d printing resin as well. However, heat can also cause yellowing and the stabilizers can't do anything about it- so if you're in a hot area, like I am in California, you need to keep your work somewhere with climate control or at least AC.
Thanks Robert! We like you to know that we love your old stories and those old pics of you were really nice to see! Also you really paint well! Always take care of your health!
I remember Peter Brown also talking about this and tried tinting the resin with a little blue to potentially counteract the yellowing. But from what it looks like, it's still inevitable. And that is a great painting!
i suspect that the the painted versions have discoloration, too, but a lot less noticeably since the pigments are more concentrated in layers on the outside surface, as opposed to dispersed throughout the object itself which would not be able to compensate as well for gradual degradation from environmental exposure. paint is definitely the way to go, although, it can alter the surface which might be undesirable for certain applications.
I worked for a time with vinyl plotters, so the printing industry also has this issue with pigments fading, look at old billboards in the street or probably an old store sign. But what really surprised me here was your technique with acrylic paint, wasn't expecting it lasted so long. And it makes perfect sense with the paintings on canvas, since all art pieces showing in museums or at home they have endure time. Awesome video Robert. Greetings from Mexico!
Cool video! Yep. I have resin miniatures that I've had only a few years, and they've all turned a yellowish hue in just a short amount of time. They started off being a very light gray color, but UV light has altered their appearance since 2018.
The yellowing of ageing plastic is just one reason I want to mould and cast models for myself because then whites and pale greys can be done in paint and not rely on the plastic to stay true to color
what about PW6/Titanium White-based metallic flakes/powders? sure the resin itself would yellow, but it looks like some solid clear medium could stay without yellowing for past 100 years. a vintage celluloid pen in hand dating from 1930s, and what looks like that metallic paste/powder mixed to it, comparable to new modern acrylic pens in saturation. those same pigments perhaps now used for automotive where they stay in direct sunlight for many years
I printed some clear parts a few days ago, they matted when I cleaned them in ipa, not a problem though. After curing however, they had yellowed significantly 😮
I have some _samples_ from smooth on that are _about_ 20 years *old now* of optically clear resin _and it_ hasn't yellowed. *I was* going to use it for *_an LED_* tail light but never _got the sculpt_ I needed because none of the -sculptors- I hired *knew how to listen* to instruction so I eventually _gave up_ . I'm *not* a sculptor. Now, with *_3D printers_* , no -sculptor- needed. I might resurrect _the idea again_ , not sure *yet* .
I'm planning on getting into resin casting so good to know. Is there brand of artists acrylics you recommend? Liquitex, Winsor Newton Professional etc? heavy or soft body acrylics? Also do you recommend applying gesso or primer over resin casting? Great painting by the way! Always happy when you post new video.
Funny, I have samples from formulas we produced 8 years ago, sitting by a window in the office. They aren’t yellow. Nice bright white and clear. But you can’t get that result from cheap monomers. That’s the moral of the story.
@@AndysDames I’m a photopolymer formulator. Arguably the worst situation for yellowing. But it’s about UV stabilization no matter what. Beyond that it’s molecular weight. Cheap short monomers make cheap short chain polymers more susceptible to breakdown, thus yellowing. Always use a quality supplier. It’s worth the extra coin.
Ignoring that painting is the best option, in the name of science, would it be possible to add some blue to the original cast so that as it ages the yellow is neutralised?
So then, for those of us making jewelry items that won’t work unless the resin is “pigmented”, do you have a recommendation for something we can do or use? Also, there are a bunch of newer resin formulas that claim to have greater degrees of ability to not yellow. Do you think there’s truth to it? Thanks.
The problem is that yellowing isn't caused by one single thing. Resins that have UV inhibitors will (probably) take longer to turn yellow from UV exposure, but UV exposure isn't the only cause of yellowing. And even if you use the same brand of resin every time, one bottle might yellow faster than another because of things like age and storage temperatures. I think the only thing you can really do is find a brand of resin people have had good results with over time and just accept (😑) that it's going to yellow eventually. And if you're selling things made of resin, just make sure your customers know to avoid UV exposure as much as possible and that yellowing is inevitable. (Add that that applies to everything made of resin, not just the things YOU make... 👀)
Hey Robert! I love your channel! Maybe you could help me out, I'm new to casting and I've been using smoothon 326 and I love the stuff but it's super expensive, is there a cheaper one you would recommend that's comparable? Thanks soo much for your time!
Hey! Ive got a question about modelling! Ive got a figurine ive been making from clay and casting in resin but have to go in with a scalpel quite a lot. As a result i have a finished figure ready for the final silicon mould but it is a bit jagged where i want it to be smooth. Is there a way i can make it so, i thought about going in with fine grit sandpaper but then itll come out matt. Is there some sort of technique i can use to fix this or am i stuck having to sand? (I thought about making a cast of the one i have then pouring resin over the top and then letting it drip off but i feel its too risky). Any help or advice would be much appreciated
I've read that a UV blocking clear coat reduces yellowing in resin by blocking UV light as well as oxygen, both of which cause yellowing. Is that accurate?
The fuuu...? Seeing toys you had as a kid, and finding out the channel you discovered as an adult is the same person that designed or painted them is definitely an odd moment.
Pretty cool!
In a previous video, he showed some stuff he did for companies like Burger King.
Yup, I've seen things and thought, "wait, that looks familiar..." 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@numberc8420I will never forget that moment !🥹
I love that Trout painting!
That's a beautiful painting. I wonder if it's possible to color something so it doesn't fade at all. Slowing it down, sure, and not keeping things where light can even touch them is nice, but nothing is perfect. I think that the only way may be structural paint. Like that blue butterfly that only looks blue because of the way it reflects the light rather than any pigment.
That's a really great painting. And I'm pretty sure my sister had those Lion King figurines when we were kids. That's pretty awesome those are your designs.
Doing the type of casting I've done, I had to figure out how to stabilize colors since the finished product would be resin. Painting wasn't an option, as paint flakes off and these were finished works intended to be handled. Polytek makes a UV stabilizer that works fantastic. It doesn't stop the yellowing but it slows it waaaay down. you don't need very much either. I have pieces that are about 15 years old that are only minorly yellowed. Smooth-on has also released Uvo colors that have a UV stabilizer in the dye and I've found that it works in 3d printing resin as well. However, heat can also cause yellowing and the stabilizers can't do anything about it- so if you're in a hot area, like I am in California, you need to keep your work somewhere with climate control or at least AC.
Bob, you are firmly on top!
Thanks Robert! We like you to know that we love your old stories and those old pics of you were really nice to see! Also you really paint well! Always take care of your health!
I remember Peter Brown also talking about this and tried tinting the resin with a little blue to potentially counteract the yellowing. But from what it looks like, it's still inevitable.
And that is a great painting!
i suspect that the the painted versions have discoloration, too, but a lot less noticeably since the pigments are more concentrated in layers on the outside surface, as opposed to dispersed throughout the object itself which would not be able to compensate as well for gradual degradation from environmental exposure. paint is definitely the way to go, although, it can alter the surface which might be undesirable for certain applications.
Lovely trout painting. Would look great in the living room.
Woohoo!!!! Another amazing video! Good to see you, Sir!
I worked for a time with vinyl plotters, so the printing industry also has this issue with pigments fading, look at old billboards in the street or probably an old store sign. But what really surprised me here was your technique with acrylic paint, wasn't expecting it lasted so long. And it makes perfect sense with the paintings on canvas, since all art pieces showing in museums or at home they have endure time. Awesome video Robert. Greetings from Mexico!
ohhh I had those lion kings toys when I was a kid!
Wow, that's an incredible painting for a junior in high school! Maybe you can sneak some more paintings in your videos. 🤞😁🤞
Really good looking painting. You had an eye for catching an expression already in Junior High :)
I had thought about it....but thanks to you mate, I never will
The uv safe resin diy string lights holding up outside. The non uv safe yellows turns to powder outside. School of hard knocks
Cool video! Yep. I have resin miniatures that I've had only a few years, and they've all turned a yellowish hue in just a short amount of time. They started off being a very light gray color, but UV light has altered their appearance since 2018.
Ohh fascinating stuff. I love seeing your old work
The yellowing of ageing plastic is just one reason I want to mould and cast models for myself because then whites and pale greys can be done in paint and not rely on the plastic to stay true to color
what about PW6/Titanium White-based metallic flakes/powders? sure the resin itself would yellow, but it looks like some solid clear medium could stay without yellowing for past 100 years. a vintage celluloid pen in hand dating from 1930s, and what looks like that metallic paste/powder mixed to it, comparable to new modern acrylic pens in saturation. those same pigments perhaps now used for automotive where they stay in direct sunlight for many years
That might be my idea on saving time out the window. I thought to make things like your fish, separated into colours to save on time painting.
I guess it depends on how fast you are at painting and how pigmented your paints are
I printed some clear parts a few days ago, they matted when I cleaned them in ipa, not a problem though. After curing however, they had yellowed significantly 😮
I have some _samples_ from smooth on that are _about_ 20 years *old now* of optically clear resin _and it_ hasn't yellowed. *I was* going to use it for *_an LED_* tail light but never _got the sculpt_ I needed because none of the -sculptors- I hired *knew how to listen* to instruction so I eventually _gave up_ . I'm *not* a sculptor. Now, with *_3D printers_* , no -sculptor- needed. I might resurrect _the idea again_ , not sure *yet* .
Great examples. Thanks for sharing
Wow, that is an amazing change. Also, I too use artist paints and agree, they last so much longer.
It’s too bad those resin pieces yellowed. I love your character pieces.
Thanks for the photos. :D It was fun to see you in younger days.
I'm planning on getting into resin casting so good to know. Is there brand of artists acrylics you recommend? Liquitex, Winsor Newton Professional etc? heavy or soft body acrylics? Also do you recommend applying gesso or primer over resin casting? Great painting by the way! Always happy when you post new video.
Funny, I have samples from formulas we produced 8 years ago, sitting by a window in the office. They aren’t yellow. Nice bright white and clear. But you can’t get that result from cheap monomers. That’s the moral of the story.
Of course, now I want to know where you work. I’m gearing up to do a lot of casting and I’ve been very concerned about this problem lately.
@@AndysDames I’m a photopolymer formulator. Arguably the worst situation for yellowing. But it’s about UV stabilization no matter what. Beyond that it’s molecular weight. Cheap short monomers make cheap short chain polymers more susceptible to breakdown, thus yellowing. Always use a quality supplier. It’s worth the extra coin.
Tbh I like colouring my resin coz I 100% will scuff it up lol
Ignoring that painting is the best option, in the name of science, would it be possible to add some blue to the original cast so that as it ages the yellow is neutralised?
The head was dyed blue.
Holy carp! That trout painting is amazing! Maybe you're YouTubing the wrong subject!
So then, for those of us making jewelry items that won’t work unless the resin is “pigmented”, do you have a recommendation for something we can do or use? Also, there are a bunch of newer resin formulas that claim to have greater degrees of ability to not yellow. Do you think there’s truth to it? Thanks.
I was wondering the same thing! As some jewellery is transparent.
The problem is that yellowing isn't caused by one single thing. Resins that have UV inhibitors will (probably) take longer to turn yellow from UV exposure, but UV exposure isn't the only cause of yellowing. And even if you use the same brand of resin every time, one bottle might yellow faster than another because of things like age and storage temperatures. I think the only thing you can really do is find a brand of resin people have had good results with over time and just accept (😑) that it's going to yellow eventually. And if you're selling things made of resin, just make sure your customers know to avoid UV exposure as much as possible and that yellowing is inevitable. (Add that that applies to everything made of resin, not just the things YOU make... 👀)
Bob, how do you protect your painted objects?
Hey Robert! I love your channel! Maybe you could help me out, I'm new to casting and I've been using smoothon 326 and I love the stuff but it's super expensive, is there a cheaper one you would recommend that's comparable? Thanks soo much for your time!
Hey! Ive got a question about modelling! Ive got a figurine ive been making from clay and casting in resin but have to go in with a scalpel quite a lot. As a result i have a finished figure ready for the final silicon mould but it is a bit jagged where i want it to be smooth. Is there a way i can make it so, i thought about going in with fine grit sandpaper but then itll come out matt. Is there some sort of technique i can use to fix this or am i stuck having to sand? (I thought about making a cast of the one i have then pouring resin over the top and then letting it drip off but i feel its too risky). Any help or advice would be much appreciated
I've read that a UV blocking clear coat reduces yellowing in resin by blocking UV light as well as oxygen, both of which cause yellowing. Is that accurate?
I am a new sub member. how would u make a silicone bracket mold
Not sure what you mean by a silicone bracket mold.
Dye? Od die?
Thanks Robert!
What about 4k automotive clear over the top it should not yellow
Wow what a difference! Just got a different colorway now!