Perfect instructions. I did mine from the rear of the drivers seat by unfastening the cover under the seat. There was plenty of room to flex the cable up in the middle and remove in the same fashion others here did. A day later I found Mazda technical support bulletin 09-005/18. It describes how to replace the cable by removing the whole seat. It also describes this is a defect the way the cable was made. [Some vehicles may exhibit excessive operating noise when sliding the driver and/or passenger power seat(s) back and forth. The noise may be caused by cable vibration, which transmits power from the motor to the gears. The cable vibrates inside the cable casing due to inadequately wrapped fabric around the cable. To eliminate this concern, the power seat cable has been changed to a type that produces less friction and noise.]
Same outcome as others below- left the seat in, but scooted it all the way back, and lifted it all the way up. Access was easy from the front floorboard. Used a regular flathead screwdriver, and a flashlight. Had it out, greased the inner shaft with high-temp axle grease, and reinstalled in under 5 minutes. Started with the exact same noise as in this video, and now it sounds normal.
Joe, thank you so much for the video. Great instructions! I completed the task a bit modified: Disco'd the battery just for precaution, but left everything else in tact. Seat height up and all the way back, flathead to lift the cable/driveshaft, removed the cable from the plasticy sleeve and lubed it heavily with WD-40 white lithium grease, put the cable back into the sleeve and finagled it back into it's place under the seat. That was the toughest part since I've got large hands. Battery reconnected and no dreadful noise! I'd like to email you a gift card to the store or restaurant of your choice because this truly helped me a great deal. Thanks again
Great! And that has fixed the problem permanently? I'm trying to decide to do that or just replace it. I don't wanna lube it then have to lube it again in 6 Months.
@@mary-scottbogacz4399 That I'm not sure about because since then we've sold that vehicle in order to purchase a larger one. We roll in a minivan now 🤘
Purchased a new cable for roughly $15 shipped just in case but using WD-40 on the cable after removal did the trick. I know this an old video but I really appreciate you putting this together, really saved a lot of people money/headache. Thank you!
Thank you for the video. I am not sure how much better it will be to unbolt the seat so I am going to try it first by leaving it all intact. But if I can't contour my body to get to it, I guess I will unbolt. But again, thanks!!!! UPDATE: I just changed out the cable in less than 5 minutes. It took longer to get set up and the courage to tackle it. I was a little anxious/apprehensive about taking it out and getting it back in. Taking it out was easy and installing the new cable was actually a little bit easier now that I knew how it all went together. I just had to properly put my flashlight on one of the ends to see the entry point and everything slipped right in. I did NOT take the seat bolts out but I did disconnect the battery out of caution.
Thank you very much for the video. I raised the seat, popped the cable out, lubed it up by pulling it halfway out of the sleeve, and put it back in. Took five minutes, and four of that was looking for my glasses so I could see it.
I was able to pull out driveshaft with seat bolted down. I lubricated it with Fluid Film since it is thicker and sticks to surfaces, Worked perfect! Thank you Joe for showing the cause to the noise.
Thanks for the video. Just fixed my father-in-law’s 2016 CX-5. Replaced the cable without removing the seat from the vehicle. Used a flat blade screwdriver to pop the cable out of the holders, then flexed it out, console side first, then motor side. Installed new cable motor side first, then console side. Moved the seat all the way back first and don’t touch the power seat switch until you’re done. Finished up with a little garage door lube on the seat track screws, now much quieter.
Excellent video, saved me a couple hundred dollars. Bought the part and literally took me 5 mins. Raised the seat up and back. Unhooked the cable and pulled it out. Replaced in same order thanks to you.
TRY FIRST BEFORE BUYING PART!!!! Removed Cable with out removing seat. remove cable from rubber housing and grease it with automotive grease. Worked Perfectly. Thank you for help.
Great video. I was just about to pull the seat to troubleshoot that intolerable noise. You saved me some effort. What I did: I didn't remove the seat as I had access from the front. I removed the cable easily. I also did not replace the cable; I simply removed the inner cable and hit the fabric sheath and the cable outer tube with a PTFE spray lube. I put it back in and....noise gone. If it doesn't last, the process will now take 10 minutes and I'll repeat the lubrication. The cable condition was fine. Thanks for digging in first and posting!
Thanks for this post, Joe, much appreciated! I bought the TK81-88-0D1 cable assembly part from local dealership ($CAD 16.82) and replaced following the simpler method a couple other people mentioned: lift the seat to highest position, pop the old cable out, plug the new cable in, lubricate. Literally a 5min job. Worked like charm, seat adjustment is very smooth and quiet now! Really thankful for your post!
@@mary-scottbogacz4399 I myself just bought the cable and It's a different material setup from the original that came with the vehicle, it shouldn't return
You're a hero! I'll update this comment when I try it on my 2017 Mazda6! I've had the bottom of the seat replaced myself following a collision and it did NOT fix the issue, loud as ever. Making me think I got a used part with this apparently very common problem
Thanks for the video. Saved me lots of money. I changed it without removing the seat but it isn't easy. I had to file the ends of the rod a little to get them to fit.
Same issue with our 2016 CX-9. I did not replace the drive cable yet but did take the seat out and put white lithium grease in each end and also along the screw threads along the track below. Was getting extremely loud on drivers side only. So far so good and back to normal. Going to keep eye on it and if needed grab the part TK81-88-0D1. Appreciate you posting!! Cheers
2016 CX-9. Same part number as the CX-5. Not all CX-9 models use the same so check before ordering. Problem solved! I replaced the cable without removing the seat. I disconnected the negative lead to the battery. Thank you for posting this!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! For about $33, including s&h, the cost of the appropriate socket, and this video, hubby silenced that horrendous noise and vacuumed the area in less than an hour.
Thank you for this video! I just fixed this issue on my Mazda CX-9 Touring model vehicle. I'm a female and I'm proud I did this myself. I didnt disconnect the battery(don't know how) and I just pushed the chair all the way back and up, located the wire and pulled it out. Lubricated it with WD-40 and the noise is gone! Saved me a ton of money!! It cost me 10 minutes of my time. 5 we're locating the wire..so I watched the video on fast forward to locate it. Other 5 were spent pulling the wire out (twice) to lubricate twice and put it back in. Use a flash light to help with faster locating and putting it back in. Thanks a million! Thumbs up!!
Thanks Joe. Was able to remove cable without removing seat, lubed it well including within the plastic sleeve, now works silently. Hardest part was replacing cable as kinda tough to see the console side entrance point but not overly difficult. If noise returns, will replace cable as you mentioned. Thanks again!
You sir are my new hero. I used your video as a reference and sprayed WD-40 directly on both ends of the cable under the seat and on the opposite motor side from the exterior of the seat since I could see the cable spinning through the motor to the other side (After I raised the seat to the max height). I waited a bit then moved the seat around and the sound is gone. Followed up later with a little silicone lubricant in the same manner just in case, but working for now, and if the lube stops working at least I know exactly the part to replace and how to do it thanks to you. The best thing for me is I didn't have to remove a thing, and only cost like a dime's worth of spray. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video Joe! Exactly what my CX-5 is doing. Found the issue before I found your video. Just ordered the cable. If I can spend $$$$ on my Jeep, I can spare $16 for my Mazda....🤣
Just fixed the problem on wifeys 2016 CX5 Touring. I did not unbolt the seat and just moved it all the way back and up. I wanted to just check out the cable first before ordering a new part or if just lubing it up would resolve the issue. The old cable was just pulled out and lubed up with silicone spray as that's all I had at home. The difference with my cable though is that both tips had the square end. The part your video and other video somone else uploaded shows a paddle end closest to the center console. Whoever needs a fix should check this out first before ordering. Negative battery terminal was disconnected before work was done also. 5 minute repair. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for the video! I was able to get it done without unbolting the seat. Raised it up and back and had enough room to work. Just posted a short video on my channel!
Excellent advice and comments for solving this problem for $20. as opposed to $1,200 quoted from Mazda. I got the TK81-88-OD1 from the parts department at the local dealership and my husband replaced it without removing the seat. He said it wasn't super easy but it was doable using the instructions from the comments here. Thanks!
Thanks, just changed mine. FYI in the 2014 Mazda 6 with leather and memory options for the seat, the motor and cable are in the front part of the seat, not at the rear, the cable is identical. Still have to tilt the seat, thought. No need to disconnect the battery as well, but if you are not confident enough remove the negative terminal just in case.
The seat on my wife's '16 CX-9 started making this screeching sound the other day. I tried lubing the cable with wheel bearing grease and white lithium grease with no success. I'm going to order the replacement cable TK81-88-0D1 and see if this fixes it. There is definitely a lot of vibration coming from the cable. I hope it's not the gear box.
Thanks for the solution. I do have a much easier way to do this however. No need to take any bolts out and it takes about 5'. 1. Raise seat all the way up (both front and rear). 2. Move seat all the way back. 3. Under the front of the seat, remove the three plastic push pins holding the fabric upholstery and then push upholstery to the rear. 4. Move seat all the way forward. 5. Lift upholstery up to expose the part needing replacement. 6. lift part out of holders and pull out. 7. reinstall new part. 8. Put upholstery back in front and pin it in. 9. Done
Thank you very much sir...I have the same issue on my 2016 CX5...by chance, do you know the cause for this problem, beeing more specific, why this drive shaft cable makes that noise?...is it normal wear?....thank you, thank you, thank you for your video, you are by far more helpfull than the rip off's back at the dealership.
This repair should take less than 5 minutes. Put the seat all the way back and raise it up. Using a small screw driver, pop the cable out of the brackets like in the video. Remove the console side and the the motor side by flexing the center of the cable. Your halfway home in a minute. Pull the cable out of it's housing and saturate it with lubricant. I used Blaster dry lube (which is wet???) with Teflon available at home depot. I put it back in the housing and then used my drill motor to spin it at a high rate in both directions while holding the outside housing. I removed the cable and soaked it one more time and then reassembled it. No noise. Not sure how long it will last but I think it's a legit repair. Thanks for posting the video! Note...I didn't need to disconnect the battery or the seat wiring.
Opted for the lubing method for the original cable and noise is greatly reduced. Let's see how long it lasts. Also, again, if you are doing this without removing the seat install the motor side end first when reattaching the cable, make the job 10x easier.
Joe, thanks so much for this video!! I plan on fixing this as soon as I'm able to. Does anyone know if this cable could sieze up if not taken care of sooner than later? I'd hate to have a dead seat
I believe it will seize up my Mazda 6 was making the same noise now the control side of the seat is stuck while the other side will try to slide. So it’s basically trying to twist on me
Joe, thanks for the video, unfortunately part won’t fit on 2016 m3 2.5 sport hatchback. Part is little longer than original one. I requested for return.
Good job! I am surprised though. I mean, such a relatively simple job (mostly labor), and the Mazda dealer chose not to go this route, and want to replace the whole assembly for a fortune of $. So instead of making "some" money, they made no money. Just curious though....how much did they charge you to give you this estimate?
I agree it is a drive shaft - but Mazda calls it a cable (description they apply to the part name). That's why I used the term. The center of it is like a closed wound spring. That may be why they call it a cable.
I looked at the old cable after taking it out, it wasn't broken. The assembly consists of a hard plastic outer shell inside of which is a cloth (almost felt like) covered shaft. The shaft consists of a closed coil spring. There's no perceived binding between the cloth sleeve and outer plastic shell. I don't think lubrication would solve the problem. My suspicion is that root cause is more likely related to spring fatigue. Others may prove me wrong if they want to remove, lubricate, and reinstall the cable as a test but it's not worth it to me to do so.
Rene - I would call RealMazdaParts at 505-343-4291 to have them help you identify the correct part number. Before you call have your VIN number. I find their prices to be reasonable. I don't see the motor listed separately on their site but then neither is the cable / drive shaft in the above repair vid however they do supply it. Here's a link to the seat section of their site for your model and year www.realmazdaparts.com/v-2017-mazda-cx-5--grand-touring--2-5l-l4-gas/body--front-seat-components (you'll need to copy and paste it).
@@Joe-wq6dw the dealer service department replaced both complete seat mecanisms and motors under warranty. I still had 300 miles before it expired! So all is OK now. Thanks so much.
My Mazda 6 was doing the exact same thing noise and didn’t think it was that big of deal but now it won’t slide forward it is stuck all the way back and when I try to put it forward only the left side of the seat moves up while the right (control side) stays in place so basically twisting the seat, would this be the same fix
Ed - it sounds like you have gotten the left and right side of the seat out of alignment with each other on the worm gears that move it forward and back. You are going to have to remove that cable and manually adjust one side independent of the other until the two sides are in alignment (identical distance from worm gear retainer to carriage that travels on the worm gear). Once you have this alignment re-established you should be able to reinstall the drive cable. If I were doing it I would manually adjust the side away from the drive motor. If the limits are electronically controlled they are more likely to be associated with the drive motor side.
I just got a quote from my Mazda Dealer of $1369 (canadian currency) to repair my noisy power seat in my 2016 Mazda CX 5. Is the replacement cable assembly on your wife's vehicle still working properly. My dealer wants to replace the entire entire lower seat assembly.
No this is not part of the powertrain. Mazda's definition of their powertrain warranty coverage includes the engine, transmission & transaxle, and front and rear drive systems. It should however be covered if your vehicle is less than 36 months old and has less than 36K miles on it.
When installing the new or lubed old cable put the cable in the motor side first. The cable slides into the motor opening quite a ways which makes it fairly easy to get into the console side. I don’t think there is any reason to unbolt the seat or disconnect the battery. Just DON’T actuate the chair slider until you have it all back together. I lubed my old cable and it is silent. I did order a new one just in case. NOTE- Mazda3 cable assembly is a different part number because it is about one inch shorter than the one in the video. part # BJY3-88-0D1 If I can do this anybody can!
Two year old comment, but I did the same as you on my 2017 Mazda3. However, I noticed that the part I purchased (BJY3-88-0D1, which is the one listed in Mazda's TSB 09-005/18 dated 7/13/2018) had the square drive ends offset by 45-degrees unlike the original part which are not offset. Real Mazda Parts warned me that the part isn't listed for my VIN, despite my VIN matching the TSB. Seemed strange to me, so instead of installing the new part, I lubed the old cable with white lithium and so far so good. Will have to see how it holds up.
Female Torx Socket. The bolts are Torx but unlike smaller bolts where you use Torx bit screwdrivers and the screwdriver is a male torx and head of screw is female this is opposite that.
I got the same problem, I take out whole seat, remove motor, and switch with this out higher, that exact the same, use wd40 put some inside, and this shaft wd40 too, for me helps everything work just perfect, and cost me 30min work.
If it moves but shouldn't - duct tape; If doesn't move but should - wd40! Thanks for sharing the comment that some have asked about lubrication as an alternative solution.
Apparently a semi-recall, unannounced it seems but worthy of a reworked part anyway here is another handy reference from Mazda to look at too: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10143977-9999.pdf
Perfect instructions. I did mine from the rear of the drivers seat by unfastening the cover under the seat. There was plenty of room to flex the cable up in the middle and remove in the same fashion others here did. A day later I found Mazda technical support bulletin 09-005/18. It describes how to replace the cable by removing the whole seat. It also describes this is a defect the way the cable was made.
[Some vehicles may exhibit excessive operating noise when sliding the driver and/or passenger power seat(s) back and forth. The noise may be caused by cable vibration, which transmits power from the motor to the gears. The cable vibrates inside the cable casing due to inadequately wrapped fabric around the cable. To eliminate this concern, the power seat cable has been changed to a type that produces less friction and noise.]
Same outcome as others below- left the seat in, but scooted it all the way back, and lifted it all the way up. Access was easy from the front floorboard. Used a regular flathead screwdriver, and a flashlight. Had it out, greased the inner shaft with high-temp axle grease, and reinstalled in under 5 minutes. Started with the exact same noise as in this video, and now it sounds normal.
Joe, thank you so much for the video. Great instructions! I completed the task a bit modified: Disco'd the battery just for precaution, but left everything else in tact. Seat height up and all the way back, flathead to lift the cable/driveshaft, removed the cable from the plasticy sleeve and lubed it heavily with WD-40 white lithium grease, put the cable back into the sleeve and finagled it back into it's place under the seat. That was the toughest part since I've got large hands. Battery reconnected and no dreadful noise! I'd like to email you a gift card to the store or restaurant of your choice because this truly helped me a great deal. Thanks again
Did you ever have to replace the cable? Or did lubing it fix it long term?
@@mary-scottbogacz4399 Just removing it and spraying it with wd-40 worked right away.
Great! And that has fixed the problem permanently? I'm trying to decide to do that or just replace it. I don't wanna lube it then have to lube it again in 6 Months.
@@mary-scottbogacz4399 That I'm not sure about because since then we've sold that vehicle in order to purchase a larger one. We roll in a minivan now 🤘
@@kyleshenberger8937 ohhh okay, thanks for the response!
Purchased a new cable for roughly $15 shipped just in case but using WD-40 on the cable after removal did the trick. I know this an old video but I really appreciate you putting this together, really saved a lot of people money/headache. Thank you!
Where did you apply the WD-40?
Thank you for the video. I am not sure how much better it will be to unbolt the seat so I am going to try it first by leaving it all intact. But if I can't contour my body to get to it, I guess I will unbolt. But again, thanks!!!!
UPDATE: I just changed out the cable in less than 5 minutes. It took longer to get set up and the courage to tackle it. I was a little anxious/apprehensive about taking it out and getting it back in. Taking it out was easy and installing the new cable was actually a little bit easier now that I knew how it all went together. I just had to properly put my flashlight on one of the ends to see the entry point and everything slipped right in. I did NOT take the seat bolts out but I did disconnect the battery out of caution.
Thank you very much for the video. I raised the seat, popped the cable out, lubed it up by pulling it halfway out of the sleeve, and put it back in. Took five minutes, and four of that was looking for my glasses so I could see it.
Same - I just popped out the cable; greased it up and put it back in. The noise is gone!
What did you guys use to grease it? So, did you do all the steps that are in this video, but instead of replacing the part, you just greased it?
I was able to pull out driveshaft with seat bolted down. I lubricated it with Fluid Film since it is thicker and sticks to surfaces, Worked perfect! Thank you Joe for showing the cause to the noise.
Was you able to put the same dry shaft back in?
My wife has been at me about this noise in her car for a while. Thank you so much for the video 🙏
Thanks for the video. Just fixed my father-in-law’s 2016 CX-5. Replaced the cable without removing the seat from the vehicle. Used a flat blade screwdriver to pop the cable out of the holders, then flexed it out, console side first, then motor side. Installed new cable motor side first, then console side. Moved the seat all the way back first and don’t touch the power seat switch until you’re done. Finished up with a little garage door lube on the seat track screws, now much quieter.
Excellent video, saved me a couple hundred dollars. Bought the part and literally took me 5 mins. Raised the seat up and back. Unhooked the cable and pulled it out. Replaced in same order thanks to you.
TRY FIRST BEFORE BUYING PART!!!! Removed Cable with out removing seat. remove cable from rubber housing and grease it with automotive grease. Worked Perfectly. Thank you for help.
Do you move the driver’s seat all the way forward first? To access the Cable?
Thanks dude, Crooked ass dealerships piss me off.
Very helpful. Just did the replacement with seat intact.
Tried grease first, no luck. New part fixed issue. Easy fix. Thank you, sir!
Sorry Joe - just re-watched the video and you gave the part number so thanks for doing this. Very informative video!
Great video. I was just about to pull the seat to troubleshoot that intolerable noise. You saved me some effort.
What I did: I didn't remove the seat as I had access from the front. I removed the cable easily. I also did not replace the cable; I simply removed the inner cable and hit the fabric sheath and the cable outer tube with a PTFE spray lube. I put it back in and....noise gone. If it doesn't last, the process will now take 10 minutes and I'll repeat the lubrication. The cable condition was fine.
Thanks for digging in first and posting!
This video was super helpful and a money saver. It was much easier than expected too. Thanks!!
Thanks for this post, Joe, much appreciated! I bought the TK81-88-0D1 cable assembly part from local dealership ($CAD 16.82) and replaced following the simpler method a couple other people mentioned: lift the seat to highest position, pop the old cable out, plug the new cable in, lubricate. Literally a 5min job. Worked like charm, seat adjustment is very smooth and quiet now!
Really thankful for your post!
Did the noise ever return?
@@mary-scottbogacz4399 I myself just bought the cable and It's a different material setup from the original that came with the vehicle, it shouldn't return
You're a hero! I'll update this comment when I try it on my 2017 Mazda6! I've had the bottom of the seat replaced myself following a collision and it did NOT fix the issue, loud as ever. Making me think I got a used part with this apparently very common problem
Thanks! You saved a lot of people some money! Lubed the inside of the tube on mine and it works great.
Thanks for the video. Saved me lots of money. I changed it without removing the seat but it isn't easy. I had to file the ends of the rod a little to get them to fit.
Same issue with our 2016 CX-9. I did not replace the drive cable yet but did take the seat out and put white lithium grease in each end and also along the screw threads along the track below. Was getting extremely loud on drivers side only. So far so good and back to normal. Going to keep eye on it and if needed grab the part TK81-88-0D1. Appreciate you posting!! Cheers
Thank you Joe!!. Really useful video. I accessed from the back part of the seat and was easy. Just lubricated and works fine.
Oh boi…been looking for a solution to this and they dealer said 17K for a new chair…I’m definitely going to try this!
2016 CX-9. Same part number as the CX-5. Not all CX-9 models use the same so check before ordering. Problem solved! I replaced the cable without removing the seat. I disconnected the negative lead to the battery. Thank you for posting this!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! For about $33, including s&h, the cost of the appropriate socket, and this video, hubby silenced that horrendous noise and vacuumed the area in less than an hour.
Thank you for this video! I just fixed this issue on my Mazda CX-9 Touring model vehicle. I'm a female and I'm proud I did this myself. I didnt disconnect the battery(don't know how) and I just pushed the chair all the way back and up, located the wire and pulled it out. Lubricated it with WD-40 and the noise is gone! Saved me a ton of money!! It cost me 10 minutes of my time. 5 we're locating the wire..so I watched the video on fast forward to locate it. Other 5 were spent pulling the wire out (twice) to lubricate twice and put it back in. Use a flash light to help with faster locating and putting it back in. Thanks a million! Thumbs up!!
Is the WD-40 still working for you or has the squeaking returned as that is an even less expensive fix? Thanks
@@bobwadsworth4799 It works for quite a while and I ended up lubricating it again as the squeaking came back but not as loud. The cheapest fix indeed!
Hi. A lady driver too. May I know if I can just spray WD-40 to the both end without removing the rod/wire ? Thanks
@@nik931127 Yes you can if you get the can that has the small straw-like tube. But it will lubricate better by taking it off.
Appreciate it, Joe. Completed repair and it works great now.
Thanks Joe. Was able to remove cable without removing seat, lubed it well including within the plastic sleeve, now works silently. Hardest part was replacing cable as kinda tough to see the console side entrance point but not overly difficult.
If noise returns, will replace cable as you mentioned.
Thanks again!
Did the noise ever return?
You sir are my new hero. I used your video as a reference and sprayed WD-40 directly on both ends of the cable under the seat and on the opposite motor side from the exterior of the seat since I could see the cable spinning through the motor to the other side (After I raised the seat to the max height). I waited a bit then moved the seat around and the sound is gone. Followed up later with a little silicone lubricant in the same manner just in case, but working for now, and if the lube stops working at least I know exactly the part to replace and how to do it thanks to you. The best thing for me is I didn't have to remove a thing, and only cost like a dime's worth of spray. Thanks again!
Thanks ivegota - it's nice to be called a hero. It's nice to hear approaches others have taken too.
Hi. May I know if you disconnect the battery terminal before spraying WD-40 to the cable ? Thanks
Thanks for the video Joe! Exactly what my CX-5 is doing. Found the issue before I found your video. Just ordered the cable. If I can spend $$$$ on my Jeep, I can spare $16 for my Mazda....🤣
I did this just now and OMG is all better. Thanks!
Thank you Joe. saved me a ton of troubleshooting!!!
Thank you! My Wife's 2021 CX5 has the same issue and this vid is a great start for me!
Just fixed the problem on wifeys 2016 CX5 Touring. I did not unbolt the seat and just moved it all the way back and up. I wanted to just check out the cable first before ordering a new part or if just lubing it up would resolve the issue. The old cable was just pulled out and lubed up with silicone spray as that's all I had at home. The difference with my cable though is that both tips had the square end. The part your video and other video somone else uploaded shows a paddle end closest to the center console. Whoever needs a fix should check this out first before ordering. Negative battery terminal was disconnected before work was done also. 5 minute repair. Thanks for your help.
Great video and amazing instructions, thanks!
Got the same issue in my Mazda CX-9 2016, after a car detailer took my seat out to clean. Going to try this out.
Thanks for the video! I was able to get it done without unbolting the seat. Raised it up and back and had enough room to work. Just posted a short video on my channel!
Excellent advice and comments for solving this problem for $20. as opposed to $1,200 quoted from Mazda. I got the TK81-88-OD1 from the parts department at the local dealership and my husband replaced it without removing the seat. He said it wasn't super easy but it was doable using the instructions from the comments here. Thanks!
Thank you Joe!
Thanks, just changed mine. FYI in the 2014 Mazda 6 with leather and memory options for the seat, the motor and cable are in the front part of the seat, not at the rear, the cable is identical. Still have to tilt the seat, thought. No need to disconnect the battery as well, but if you are not confident enough remove the negative terminal just in case.
Same cx-5 from 2016, European version, I ordered the part, change it and fix the noise...
thanks!
Thanks! I have this noise. Should I try lubing the existing one or just replacing it? I like the idea of not taking the seat all the way out
The seat on my wife's '16 CX-9 started making this screeching sound the other day. I tried lubing the cable with wheel bearing grease and white lithium grease with no success. I'm going to order the replacement cable TK81-88-0D1 and see if this fixes it. There is definitely a lot of vibration coming from the cable. I hope it's not the gear box.
Thanks for the solution. I do have a much easier way to do this however. No need to take any bolts out and it takes about 5'. 1. Raise seat all the way up (both front and rear). 2. Move seat all the way back. 3. Under the front of the seat, remove the three plastic push pins holding the fabric upholstery and then push upholstery to the rear. 4. Move seat all the way forward. 5. Lift upholstery up to expose the part needing replacement. 6. lift part out of holders and pull out. 7. reinstall new part. 8. Put upholstery back in front and pin it in. 9. Done
Did you disconnect the battery?
About that battery..? :)
Thank you very much sir...I have the same issue on my 2016 CX5...by chance, do you know the cause for this problem, beeing more specific, why this drive shaft cable makes that noise?...is it normal wear?....thank you, thank you, thank you for your video, you are by far more helpfull than the rip off's back at the dealership.
Nice job !
This repair should take less than 5 minutes. Put the seat all the way back and raise it up. Using a small screw driver, pop the cable out of the brackets like in the video. Remove the console side and the the motor side by flexing the center of the cable. Your halfway home in a minute. Pull the cable out of it's housing and saturate it with lubricant. I used Blaster dry lube (which is wet???) with Teflon available at home depot. I put it back in the housing and then used my drill motor to spin it at a high rate in both directions while holding the outside housing. I removed the cable and soaked it one more time and then reassembled it. No noise. Not sure how long it will last but I think it's a legit repair. Thanks for posting the video! Note...I didn't need to disconnect the battery or the seat wiring.
Any update for your seat? Did the lube work for a long time?
@@talonhone It was a vehicle I was selling. No complaints
Opted for the lubing method for the original cable and noise is greatly reduced. Let's see how long it lasts.
Also, again, if you are doing this without removing the seat install the motor side end first when reattaching the cable, make the job 10x easier.
Is it still quiet?
@@cnt369 you have to repeat the process Every 3 months or so.
Cheaper than a new cable? Yes
Annoying to take it out and out it back in? Definitely
Thank you very much!
Hi Joe - do you have a Mazda part # for the cable you replaced? Having the same issue on my 2016 Mazda 6 Wagon but I need a part # here in Australia.
Joe, thanks so much for this video!! I plan on fixing this as soon as I'm able to. Does anyone know if this cable could sieze up if not taken care of sooner than later? I'd hate to have a dead seat
I believe it will seize up my Mazda 6 was making the same noise now the control side of the seat is stuck while the other side will try to slide. So it’s basically trying to twist on me
Joe, thanks for the video, unfortunately part won’t fit on 2016 m3 2.5 sport hatchback. Part is little longer than original one. I requested for return.
How did you go with the part have you fixed the seat
Good job! I am surprised though. I mean, such a relatively simple job (mostly labor), and the Mazda dealer chose not to go this route, and want to replace the whole assembly for a fortune of $. So instead of making "some" money, they made no money. Just curious though....how much did they charge you to give you this estimate?
Thanks for posting. Why do you call it a cable as it appears to be a drive shaft in the video. Nice work!
I agree it is a drive shaft - but Mazda calls it a cable (description they apply to the part name). That's why I used the term. The center of it is like a closed wound spring. That may be why they call it a cable.
Because it is a cable. A drive shaft would be rigid.
I looked at the old cable after taking it out, it wasn't broken. The assembly consists of a hard plastic outer shell inside of which is a cloth (almost felt like) covered shaft. The shaft consists of a closed coil spring. There's no perceived binding between the cloth sleeve and outer plastic shell. I don't think lubrication would solve the problem. My suspicion is that root cause is more likely related to spring fatigue. Others may prove me wrong if they want to remove, lubricate, and reinstall the cable as a test but it's not worth it to me to do so.
I've tested lubricating the old part. It works. This is also documented by mazda.
Do you by chance have the part number for the MOTOR? I have a 2017 CX-5 GT with power seats.
Rene - I would call RealMazdaParts at 505-343-4291 to have them help you identify the correct part number. Before you call have your VIN number. I find their prices to be reasonable. I don't see the motor listed separately on their site but then neither is the cable / drive shaft in the above repair vid however they do supply it. Here's a link to the seat section of their site for your model and year www.realmazdaparts.com/v-2017-mazda-cx-5--grand-touring--2-5l-l4-gas/body--front-seat-components (you'll need to copy and paste it).
@@Joe-wq6dw the dealer service department replaced both complete seat mecanisms and motors under warranty. I still had 300 miles before it expired! So all is OK now. Thanks so much.
this looks like it's mostly common in all 2016 mazda vehicles cause mine does the same 2016 mazda cx-9
December 2021 Mazda now say that the cost of replacement is $3000.00
My Mazda 6 was doing the exact same thing noise and didn’t think it was that big of deal but now it won’t slide forward it is stuck all the way back and when I try to put it forward only the left side of the seat moves up while the right (control side) stays in place so basically twisting the seat, would this be the same fix
Ed - it sounds like you have gotten the left and right side of the seat out of alignment with each other on the worm gears that move it forward and back. You are going to have to remove that cable and manually adjust one side independent of the other until the two sides are in alignment (identical distance from worm gear retainer to carriage that travels on the worm gear). Once you have this alignment re-established you should be able to reinstall the drive cable. If I were doing it I would manually adjust the side away from the drive motor. If the limits are electronically controlled they are more likely to be associated with the drive motor side.
Thanks I fixed mine by myself with barehand and I use wd-40.cost me $7.28 And a lot of sweat.im not a professional mechanic.
I just got a quote from my Mazda Dealer of $1369 (canadian currency) to repair my noisy power seat in my 2016 Mazda CX 5. Is the replacement cable assembly on your wife's vehicle still working properly. My dealer wants to replace the entire entire lower seat assembly.
Yes it is. No further increase in noise. Paying that much would be a waste of about $CAD 1342
Does this count as the motortrain or under 50k warranty?
No this is not part of the powertrain. Mazda's definition of their powertrain warranty coverage includes the engine, transmission & transaxle, and front and rear drive systems. It should however be covered if your vehicle is less than 36 months old and has less than 36K miles on it.
When installing the new or lubed old cable put the cable in the motor side first. The cable slides into the motor opening quite a ways which makes it fairly easy to get into the console side. I don’t think there is any reason to unbolt the seat or disconnect the battery. Just DON’T actuate the chair slider until you have it all back together. I lubed my old cable and it is silent. I did order a new one just in case. NOTE- Mazda3 cable assembly is a different part number because it is about one inch shorter than the one in the video.
part # BJY3-88-0D1
If I can do this anybody can!
Two year old comment, but I did the same as you on my 2017 Mazda3. However, I noticed that the part I purchased (BJY3-88-0D1, which is the one listed in Mazda's TSB 09-005/18 dated 7/13/2018) had the square drive ends offset by 45-degrees unlike the original part which are not offset. Real Mazda Parts warned me that the part isn't listed for my VIN, despite my VIN matching the TSB. Seemed strange to me, so instead of installing the new part, I lubed the old cable with white lithium and so far so good. Will have to see how it holds up.
Having same issue with mine.
How do you spell that tool you bought?
Female Torx Socket. The bolts are Torx but unlike smaller bolts where you use Torx bit screwdrivers and the screwdriver is a male torx and head of screw is female this is opposite that.
I got the same problem, I take out whole seat, remove motor, and switch with this out higher, that exact the same, use wd40 put some inside, and this shaft wd40 too, for me helps everything work just perfect, and cost me 30min work.
If it moves but shouldn't - duct tape; If doesn't move but should - wd40! Thanks for sharing the comment that some have asked about lubrication as an alternative solution.
$792? The dealership quoted me $1200!
I just put wd40 with grease inside the plastic tube and its good as new
There's a TSB that uses something very close to this process instead of a whole base replacement: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10143977-9999.pdf
Apparently a semi-recall, unannounced it seems but worthy of a reworked part anyway here is another handy reference from Mazda to look at too:
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10143977-9999.pdf