Thanks so much, Liam, for your videos! The EGR problem seems to be quite notorious on the 2.2 D4D. I'll look into this now thanks to you. All the best from Northern Finland. 👍😎
Can the valve seats be burned out on the valve as cleaned mine and still have light showing so not fully closed ? I’ve had the manifold off and cleaned it all out.
@@satoshinakamoto5618 Hi. You could just clean it over with rags and brake cleaner making sure to give it a good wipe down. A few gentle taps on a wooden block and repeat with cleaner and rags That's what I'd do I would recommend a small air compressor though if you're doing things on your vehicle's, even the small 25 litre ones come in real useful for blowing tyres up, blasting parts off etc. Thank you for watching!
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 Thanks man. I found I company locally that flushed then decoupled the ERG system (sealed it). After we used a tuning SW to bring down the c02 levels within EU regulation (for EU approval to drive on our roads).
Hi Liam, I wonder if you can help me . I have the toyota d4d as featured in this video , I have the same issue with the 4x4 light and management light illuminated , but also it doesnt rev up past 2000rpm , however at first it starts fine and drives 2 or 3 miles then the lights come on and the loss of power starts . I cleaned out the egr as I followed your video and also did a bench test and it opens and closes fine . I took it to a garage local to me and he suggested blocking off the egr with a plate , anyway I made a steel plate and bolted it on as advised but hasn't cured the problem, gets to two or 3 miles then back to the same problem . Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated . Thanks again , Craig
@@craigmellor6737 Hi. First of all thank you for watching. With regard to the EGR, you can't just remove it and blank it off. It needs to be plugged in or the computer knows it's not there. It is possible to remove them all together but that requires remapping. I haven't seen your vehicle and of course, I only have a little information to go on so I don't know how you've gone about that. With the fault you describe - it driving fine for a couple of miles before the fault develops could be a symptom of a partially blocked exhaust. It takes a bit for the back pressure to build up. This issue could throw up all sorts of faults, loss of power, management lights etc. That's at least a starting point to investigate. The way I'd personally tackle it would be to clear all fault codes, drive it until the fault developed then re read the codes on the spot and go from there. I don't know what equipment you have available so disconnecting the exhaust and running it would be a relatively easy (and free) starting point if you only have a set of spanners. Hope this helps.
Just disconnect the battery before you remove it if you're worried. Computer won't know then. To be fair, it won't unless you cycle the ignition but disconnect battery and you've nothing to worry about.
I’ve had an egr valve changed on my Rav 4 by a local garage. The lights on the dash were still not going out ie engine light check 4x4 and check engine system. Was told to take it to Toyota main dealer for software upgrsde. They still couldn’t get the lights to disappear. Car still runs well but hunts slightly on acceleration. Any ideas why the lights are still on?
Hi. thanks for watching! I never like to bash other people's work or other garages, there's too much of that in the motor trade. It's tough to have any sort of educated guess on the problem unfortunately. Those 3 faults on the dash can be caused by any number of things from the electronic PAS to the EGR. If you've had EGR trouble though they do suffer from carbon build up in the associated pipe work so maybe worth a look and wouldn't cost anything as a starting point. Thanks again for watching!
Thank you for your kind comment. Symptoms were intermittent starting issues - sometimes it would fire straight up, other times it would take 5+ attempts to get going (depending on the position the valve would be in when the engine was shut off and if it was stuck). There was also smoke under acceleration and a lack of power. Of course those problems could be caused by other issues too but I decided on the EGR as a good starting point as I knew the history of the car and knew it was the original factory fitted one. Hope this helps.
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 thanks so much for the quick reply. That really helps. I have similar problem with a corolla verso d4d and thought this might be the problem (through UA-cam research, I'm not a mechanic 🤔😂). It's good to know your symptoms were the same as mine, and now thanks to you I know how to move forward. Hope it fixes my issue. I've subscribed thanks to your advice. Hope your channel goes from strength to strength 💪👍👍
@@darrenh20102 Yes, the car starts fine now, still fine months on. Some smoke under hard acceleration is returning - though no where near as bad as it was. I suspect the associated pipe work needs decarbonising too and the cooler underneath that the gas travels through. I am wanting to do an update video on some advanced tests on the EGR on this vehicle but as of yet I haven't had time (the car belongs to a family member so its at the back of the queue for the the moment). Thanks again for your kind words and all the best with your repair. If you have anymore questions let me know and I will do my best to help.
Hi. It's a Power Probe. There are lots of different brands with varying prices. I'd recommend watching a few videos on using them if you haven't had one before as the tip is controlled by the rocker switch - live and ground so you could damage stuff if you're not sure how they work. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Hi i have a customer with this fault but looking at the part sent out when asking for egr it seems like the unit under that unit you removed is also a egr valve?
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 Liam look at this part on euro car parts 424820110 thats the unit under the one you show in your video. I’d say it’s either a throttle shutoff or a secondary egr valve
@@MrFujack103 Sorry for the delay, I wanted to check this car before replying (it belongs to a family member). I had a look and this part you linked to on Euro doesn't appear to be fitted to this Rav. Underneath the EGR I cleaned in this video there are some coolant hoses connected to a block that cools the exhaust gas. Unless its really buried under there (I didn't remove any parts) then it doesn't have the one you linked to on Euro. What you linked to is an EGR and I have checked autodata/service data and some d4d's do have 2 EGR's! The EGR on Euro also has some coolant pipe connections on it but it isn't like what is fitted to the Rav I am working on in this video. I have a diagram I can send you if required of the 2 EGR set up. It would be interesting to see some pictures of the engine/EGR you are working on. Anyway, thanks for watching and bringing this to my attention!
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 Would you have a contact email or number at all. I have the same rav4 and would really appreciate some advice from someone with some experience. I’m not a mechanic
Thanks so much, Liam, for your videos! The EGR problem seems to be quite notorious on the 2.2 D4D. I'll look into this now thanks to you. All the best from Northern Finland. 👍😎
Thank you for your kind words. It means a lot!
great video, very clearly and calmly explained
Very good 👌🏻
Thanks for the video ill do mine sometime soon
Can the valve seats be burned out on the valve as cleaned mine and still have light showing so not fully closed ? I’ve had the manifold off and cleaned it all out.
Where is located the Egr Cooler on this engine? Can u make a video about that cleaning that guy?
Thanks, it really helps
Brilliant thanks very much
Hi, this video really helped us. Thanks a lot, indeed.
Thank you for the lovely comment. I'm glad the video helped.
Hi, thanks for the video. My Rav4 is smoking under load, so I'm going to try an EGR clean. Please can you tell me how you cleaned this one?
Hi. I cleaned it with brake/carb cleaner, a small pick and some rags. Nothing fancy. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 thank you
Very helpful video thanks
Thank you for the nice comment. It really means a lot.
Bonjour
Pendant le démontage et remontage on à pas besoin donc de debrancher la batterie
Merci d'avance de vôtre retour
Cordialement
What can I use to clean the EGR other than air blowing it? Thank you ❤
@@satoshinakamoto5618 Hi. You could just clean it over with rags and brake cleaner making sure to give it a good wipe down. A few gentle taps on a wooden block and repeat with cleaner and rags That's what I'd do
I would recommend a small air compressor though if you're doing things on your vehicle's, even the small 25 litre ones come in real useful for blowing tyres up, blasting parts off etc.
Thank you for watching!
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 Thanks man. I found I company locally that flushed then decoupled the ERG system (sealed it). After we used a tuning SW to bring down the c02 levels within EU regulation (for EU approval to drive on our roads).
Hi Liam, I wonder if you can help me . I have the toyota d4d as featured in this video , I have the same issue with the 4x4 light and management light illuminated , but also it doesnt rev up past 2000rpm , however at first it starts fine and drives 2 or 3 miles then the lights come on and the loss of power starts . I cleaned out the egr as I followed your video and also did a bench test and it opens and closes fine . I took it to a garage local to me and he suggested blocking off the egr with a plate , anyway I made a steel plate and bolted it on as advised but hasn't cured the problem, gets to two or 3 miles then back to the same problem . Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated . Thanks again , Craig
@@craigmellor6737 Hi. First of all thank you for watching.
With regard to the EGR, you can't just remove it and blank it off. It needs to be plugged in or the computer knows it's not there. It is possible to remove them all together but that requires remapping. I haven't seen your vehicle and of course, I only have a little information to go on so I don't know how you've gone about that.
With the fault you describe - it driving fine for a couple of miles before the fault develops could be a symptom of a partially blocked exhaust. It takes a bit for the back pressure to build up. This issue could throw up all sorts of faults, loss of power, management lights etc.
That's at least a starting point to investigate.
The way I'd personally tackle it would be to clear all fault codes, drive it until the fault developed then re read the codes on the spot and go from there.
I don't know what equipment you have available so disconnecting the exhaust and running it would be a relatively easy (and free) starting point if you only have a set of spanners.
Hope this helps.
Any codes come up from unplugging the egr? Can i remove and clean without unplugging it
Just disconnect the battery before you remove it if you're worried. Computer won't know then. To be fair, it won't unless you cycle the ignition but disconnect battery and you've nothing to worry about.
I’ve had an egr valve changed on my Rav 4 by a local garage. The lights on the dash were still not going out ie engine light check 4x4 and check engine system. Was told to take it to Toyota main dealer for software upgrsde. They still couldn’t get the lights to disappear. Car still runs well but hunts slightly on acceleration. Any ideas why the lights are still on?
Hi. thanks for watching! I never like to bash other people's work or other garages, there's too much of that in the motor trade. It's tough to have any sort of educated guess on the problem unfortunately. Those 3 faults on the dash can be caused by any number of things from the electronic PAS to the EGR. If you've had EGR trouble though they do suffer from carbon build up in the associated pipe work so maybe worth a look and wouldn't cost anything as a starting point. Thanks again for watching!
Top advice, thanks! Can I ask you what symptoms the car was having to make you think the EGR valve was sticking?
Thank you for your kind comment.
Symptoms were intermittent starting issues - sometimes it would fire straight up, other times it would take 5+ attempts to get going (depending on the position the valve would be in when the engine was shut off and if it was stuck). There was also smoke under acceleration and a lack of power.
Of course those problems could be caused by other issues too but I decided on the EGR as a good starting point as I knew the history of the car and knew it was the original factory fitted one.
Hope this helps.
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 thanks so much for the quick reply. That really helps. I have similar problem with a corolla verso d4d and thought this might be the problem (through UA-cam research, I'm not a mechanic 🤔😂). It's good to know your symptoms were the same as mine, and now thanks to you I know how to move forward. Hope it fixes my issue. I've subscribed thanks to your advice. Hope your channel goes from strength to strength 💪👍👍
By the way, did it fix your problems?
@@darrenh20102 Yes, the car starts fine now, still fine months on. Some smoke under hard acceleration is returning - though no where near as bad as it was. I suspect the associated pipe work needs decarbonising too and the cooler underneath that the gas travels through.
I am wanting to do an update video on some advanced tests on the EGR on this vehicle but as of yet I haven't had time (the car belongs to a family member so its at the back of the queue for the the moment).
Thanks again for your kind words and all the best with your repair. If you have anymore questions let me know and I will do my best to help.
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 thanks mate. That's very kind of you. Take care👍
hello, what's the name of the tester you are using?
Hi. It's a Power Probe. There are lots of different brands with varying prices. I'd recommend watching a few videos on using them if you haven't had one before as the tip is controlled by the rocker switch - live and ground so you could damage stuff if you're not sure how they work. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Hi i have a customer with this fault but looking at the part sent out when asking for egr it seems like the unit under that unit you removed is also a egr valve?
Hi. No, only the unit I test is the EGR. Underneath is the associated pipe work that routes the exhaust gas through a cooler too.
Hope this helps.
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 Liam look at this part on euro car parts 424820110 thats the unit under the one you show in your video. I’d say it’s either a throttle shutoff or a secondary egr valve
@@MrFujack103 Sorry for the delay, I wanted to check this car before replying (it belongs to a family member).
I had a look and this part you linked to on Euro doesn't appear to be fitted to this Rav. Underneath the EGR I cleaned in this video there are some coolant hoses connected to a block that cools the exhaust gas. Unless its really buried under there (I didn't remove any parts) then it doesn't have the one you linked to on Euro.
What you linked to is an EGR and I have checked autodata/service data and some d4d's do have 2 EGR's! The EGR on Euro also has some coolant pipe connections on it but it isn't like what is fitted to the Rav I am working on in this video. I have a diagram I can send you if required of the 2 EGR set up.
It would be interesting to see some pictures of the engine/EGR you are working on.
Anyway, thanks for watching and bringing this to my attention!
Where are you based?
Hi. I'm in Barnsley, S. York's. Thanks for watching!
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 Would you have a contact email or number at all. I have the same rav4 and would really appreciate some advice from someone with some experience. I’m not a mechanic
Very poor demo, most you can
see darty uniform, no plan chow to create video