How To Place Copperheads - Aid Climbing Skills
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- This video is part of a full online course (100+ videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/c...
0:00 Introduction
0:18 The Basics
0:48 Types and Sizes
1:34 The Placement
4:20 Circle Heads
4:31 Removing Copperheads
5:14 Falling on Copperheads
5:34 Summary
Learn more about big wall climbing: www.vdiffclimbing.com/bigwall/
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Practise in a safe environment before you “head” up a big wall. Set up a top rope or go ‘aid bouldering’ to test them out. They may damage the rock, so stay away from established routes when practising.
To make your own heads, you’ll need:
- A crimping tool amzn.to/3cqD1dz
- Galvanized cable amzn.to/3zbty3z
- Copper or aluminum sleeves amzn.to/2TaZO6c
Copperhead sizes are based on their wire and sleeve diameter:
#1 = 1/16 inch wire
#2 = 3/32 inch wire
#3 = 1/8 inch wire
#4 = 5/32 inch wire
Further geeking-out about copperheads: www.supertopo.com/climbers-for...
Music:
Right Place, Right Time by Silent Partner
Jazz In Paris - Media Right Productions • Jazz In Paris - Media ...
Acoustic Blues by Audionautix audionautix.com
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported - CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: bit.ly/acoustic-blues
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Thanks for taking whips on heads for our education/entertainment :)
I fell on a head a few days ago on my first aid lead fall. I'm slightly obsessed now, I can't believe it held!
Nothing like unzippering after nail up ! Or finding bolt hangers stamped with Oh S**t and Oh oh. Fond memories. Kudos on the vid !!
These videos are excellent. Really impressed with how well everything is explained and shown with both graphics and "live demos". The footage of you taking multiple falls on heads, beaks, and hooks is awesome, definitely above and beyond. Makes me want to check out the course you offer because I know it will be of great quality and enjoyable to watch as well as informative. Thanks again for the great content that has been fun to watch and helpful to refresh various aid climbing/big wall climbing techniques after a long hiatus from climbing.
Thanks Brian!
@@vdiffclimbing I watched the Baffin Island video for the first time today. Wow! What an incredible and epic first ascent. I can only imagine what an intense and beautiful place it is there, way up North. The amount of huge unclimbed walls and peaks is mind blowing and seemingly unlimited. How did you guys go about deciding what your climbing objective would be?
We decided on Mount Turnweather because it looked massive, scary, totally wild, completely improbable and awesome all at the same time.
Great video - and absolutely awesome graphics! Please keep publishing these videos.
Blown away by the quality of these videos! Amazing work..
Production quality went crazy on this, thank you!
When he said “bomber”, I felt that. 😂
great videos guys. When you write at the end "not suitable for soft rock", it should be said that Lead-heads are for sandstone
I want to compliment the climber in this video. He seemed so calm and relaxed as he's falling, casually reaching his right hand for the rope as the second piece of protection goes zing! And he enters a controlled free fall.
I assume he had a solid bolt and some shock absorbing rig further down the wall.
Looked like this wasn't his first time falling off a cliff, seemed to be having fun.
great video . thanks😊
Thanks for making these videos.
Thanks for sharing !!! awesome video guys !
Great explanation and Clearly described. 👍👍
Absolutely brilliant video!
Great videos as usual. Thanks for sharing. 🤙
Very easy to understand,,
I am waiting for next video 👍
Very good video! Thanks
Great video, thank you.
So we have this thing that might or might not hold your body weight, and If you find one on the route, you have no idea how long it's there and the integrity of the cable. Good Luck :)
I love climbing
Give it a bounce test and you'll find out!
Whether you found it in situ or placed it yourself, you still have to bounce test it exactly the same way. So a found head isn't really any more sus than one you placed.
Very interesting!
So helpful
Dude this was an awesome video.
Cheers!
Can we get a HowNot2 video on these to see some data/numbers?
Not really any useful numbers. When you place a head, you're deforming it so much that test pulls in a lab setting are meaningless. Every placement needs to be tested individually (just like any other hard aid placement). Got to know how to bounce test your new placement, without risking shock loading your previous piece.
You can certainly test the loop end of a home-made head to see how strong that swage is, but testing the business end is kind of pointless.
Bien, thanks
Wow, what software did you use to make the 3d graphics? It's sick!! 😍😍
I used Blender. It's free! www.blender.org/
How well do heads work in the narley cracks in the bark of ponderosa pine trees?
hahaha I love your videos please don't stop
Thanks Michael! More videos coming soon..
สุดดด
if it's likely to break what's the point? Just rope management?
You can sit down, have a cup of coffee and contemplate your life choices. But you can't whip
@@timonix2 Nico Favresse reportedly took 30footers on copper heads in yosemite on one of his first free ascents... they can be good, but wouldnt trust my life with them, better than nothing.
If you’re using them it’s because there are very likely no other options for gear that can be placed. Shallow seams and grooves that are not deep enough for pins, nuts, or cams. Keeps it more exciting than a rivet or bolt.
I’m guessing it’s just strong enough to take your body weight so you can climb to an area to place an actual cam or nut.
Aid climbing is so weird.
Okay so I'm not totally crazy for not understanding aid then? This shit seems like a weird foreign world where the rules are so blurred.
It’s super weird. But it’s also really important for doing things you can’t climb normally on things like big walls if you still want to do the rest
I have heard that aid is how engineers relax
@@TheSubieFannot many rules. Stick clipping is considered off-side, but for the most part, up is up!
Yeah, no thank you
jesus.. people trust this with their lives?
Wow, this is NO commercial for copperheads🤣
Maybe they hold, but probably not…🫣
They're not meant to hold falls, though. They're meant to hold your body weight, to help you make upward progress.