best way to drain the oil with that machine/engine set up(which i currently have as well). 1) Run machine get the oil hot, before shutting it down, shut off the fuel shut off and let the carb bowl empty. 2) tip the machine up on the auger end, best to tip it so its resting against a wall or have someone hold it. 3) drain the oil out the left side(from the operators position) orange drain plug, works pretty slick.
not all snowthrower engine swap can be easy as some Tecumseh possibly Briggs & Stratton flatheads there is 2 shafts that come out of the engine its getting 2 pullies and doing it with modifications. that second shaft being the drive to the wheels or tracks on some models. if the original engine had a 1 inch crankshaft there is two options for the predator 212cc swap one is the 3/4 to 1 inch crankshaft adapter and second is buying the 2 pullies for the 3/4 in shaft as you need one small one for the drive and the larger one be for the auger drive. when i did a predator swap on a Cub Cadet the engine did fit but had to get pullies for the 3/4 in shaft. but engines with 2 shafts the drive system has to be modified the friction wheel flipped around and shifter mods. mainly on MTD built machines Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, Yard Man, Yard Machines, White, Snapper or other snowthrowers that had the 2 shaft engine Tecumseh as that second shaft to drive the wheels is linked to the camshaft of the engine.
Oil drain on the predator is actually 10mm x 1.25 thread. Pretty inconvenient... none of the drain plug extensions work for this engine without modifying.
Hey, I got an Ariens Deluxe 28, that came with their 254CC AX engine. I find that it tends to bog down in old/wet/heavy snow (the kind of hard pack stuff you tend to get if you let the snow sit for a week or more before cleaning, or the stuff at the end of the driveway that’s packed from street cleaning). So I’m wondering if the Predator 420 cc will fit, and if that’ll not break anything from the additional power. Any thoughts would be really welcome. I’ve also seen people switch their impeller to the SHO style impeller, would that be of benefit in my case? Both with or without the engine swap? Could the bogging down be due to any kind of belt slippage? I find that sometimes I have to engage the auger control a few times before it actually kicks on and spins.
Sorry, when I say engage the auger control a few times before it spins, I can’t actually see wether it’s pinning or not. What I do see is that there’s nothing coming out of the chute, until I engage it a few times, then stuff starts coming out. Once it’s warmed up it happens less often, until I let it sit for 10+ minutes while off, then it could happen again.
deja vu. I trash picked one of those same exact orange ariens with a blown motor, did the same swap. I got some motor off ebay that was like 10hp - shiny and new. The bolt base pattern was different so I drilled into the metal where the motor sits for the new pattern and as the metal is 1/4 thick I just cut threads in the holes and put 4 bolts in with loctite. Luckily the chute auger drive shaft still fit with the new engine but I had to move the top end of it out to the left 5" with a bracket I made to clear the new engine. I also replaced the friction drive as it was sliding. at full revs it throws snow about 30 ft, never bogs no matter how sloppy the snow is. Motor was about $200, a similar new blower would be at least a grand or more. Had the same issue with the belt cover not fitting, had to cut and bend it a bit to get it to work. I also put a LED light on it for night work. ok that was a bit over the top.
@@rmp3648 Mower engines are made with only 3, snowblowers use 4. Will you get away with 3, yea, but if the only one on the one side loosens, you've got problems. The 4th bolt will go, just get a long magnet or plyers and get it to the hole. I did it, wasn't that difficult.
My son was trying to get our old Sears Craftsmen snowblower going today but it appears the carb on the tecumseh engģine is shot and besides it has been weak the past few years. I was literally thinkipng today how neat it would be to drop one of those engines onto here plus it would be not wanting to puke when done snowblowing...
Swapping in this Predator and getting rid of the old Tecumseh made a HUGE difference! My Tecumseh was still running fine, but just didn't have the power. I can't even run this predator at full throttle unless I have 6+ inches of snow.
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
best way to drain the oil with that machine/engine set up(which i currently have as well). 1) Run machine get the oil hot, before shutting it down, shut off the fuel shut off and let the carb bowl empty. 2) tip the machine up on the auger end, best to tip it so its resting against a wall or have someone hold it. 3) drain the oil out the left side(from the operators position) orange drain plug, works pretty slick.
not all snowthrower engine swap can be easy as some Tecumseh possibly Briggs & Stratton flatheads there is 2 shafts that come out of the engine its getting 2 pullies and doing it with modifications. that second shaft being the drive to the wheels or tracks on some models. if the original engine had a 1 inch crankshaft there is two options for the predator 212cc swap one is the 3/4 to 1 inch crankshaft adapter and second is buying the 2 pullies for the 3/4 in shaft as you need one small one for the drive and the larger one be for the auger drive. when i did a predator swap on a Cub Cadet the engine did fit but had to get pullies for the 3/4 in shaft. but engines with 2 shafts the drive system has to be modified the friction wheel flipped around and shifter mods. mainly on MTD built machines Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, Yard Man, Yard Machines, White, Snapper or other snowthrowers that had the 2 shaft engine Tecumseh as that second shaft to drive the wheels is linked to the camshaft of the engine.
Have predator engine swapped into my old Troy Bilt tiller- works like a charm!
Guess it’s time to do the same to my MTD snowblower...
Mine num pully would work .
The guard fits on the new engine with absolutely no issue. I’ve done 3 of these swaps
I’m sure it depends which model your installing it on
That drain plug should be a 1/4 NPT thread. Extend it out with a pipe and a 90 fitting to drain easier.
Oil drain on the predator is actually 10mm x 1.25 thread. Pretty inconvenient... none of the drain plug extensions work for this engine without modifying.
The drain plug on a Predator 212cc is 10mm (buy a Draizit rubber hose) makes it easy to change oil (no mess)
Hey, I got an Ariens Deluxe 28, that came with their 254CC AX engine. I find that it tends to bog down in old/wet/heavy snow (the kind of hard pack stuff you tend to get if you let the snow sit for a week or more before cleaning, or the stuff at the end of the driveway that’s packed from street cleaning). So I’m wondering if the Predator 420 cc will fit, and if that’ll not break anything from the additional power. Any thoughts would be really welcome.
I’ve also seen people switch their impeller to the SHO style impeller, would that be of benefit in my case? Both with or without the engine swap?
Could the bogging down be due to any kind of belt slippage? I find that sometimes I have to engage the auger control a few times before it actually kicks on and spins.
Sorry, when I say engage the auger control a few times before it spins, I can’t actually see wether it’s pinning or not. What I do see is that there’s nothing coming out of the chute, until I engage it a few times, then stuff starts coming out. Once it’s warmed up it happens less often, until I let it sit for 10+ minutes while off, then it could happen again.
Thank you,, excellent
deja vu. I trash picked one of those same exact orange ariens with a blown motor, did the same swap. I got some motor off ebay that was like 10hp - shiny and new. The bolt base pattern was different so I drilled into the metal where the motor sits for the new pattern and as the metal is 1/4 thick I just cut threads in the holes and put 4 bolts in with loctite. Luckily the chute auger drive shaft still fit with the new engine but I had to move the top end of it out to the left 5" with a bracket I made to clear the new engine. I also replaced the friction drive as it was sliding. at full revs it throws snow about 30 ft, never bogs no matter how sloppy the snow is. Motor was about $200, a similar new blower would be at least a grand or more. Had the same issue with the belt cover not fitting, had to cut and bend it a bit to get it to work. I also put a LED light on it for night work. ok that was a bit over the top.
Missing a motor mount bolt, no problem. SMH.
Double nutted and loctite on the others... two seasons with no problems!
Not arguing with you, but I've seen mower engines with only 3 mounting bolts from the factory. Odd but it is what it is.
@@rmp3648 Mower engines are made with only 3, snowblowers use 4. Will you get away with 3, yea, but if the only one on the one side loosens, you've got problems.
The 4th bolt will go, just get a long magnet or plyers and get it to the hole. I did it, wasn't that difficult.
@@BlakeLarson But not having that belt cover though.... and the old swaps right on.
My son was trying to get our old Sears Craftsmen snowblower going today but it appears the carb on the tecumseh engģine is shot and besides it has been weak the past few years. I was literally thinkipng today how neat it would be to drop one of those engines onto here plus it would be not wanting to puke when done snowblowing...
Swapping in this Predator and getting rid of the old Tecumseh made a HUGE difference! My Tecumseh was still running fine, but just didn't have the power. I can't even run this predator at full throttle unless I have 6+ inches of snow.
@@BlakeLarson Good to know, thank you..I will grab one this weekend