How to heat treat STAINLESS steel
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- Опубліковано 15 лис 2021
- In todays video I show my process for heat treating some 440c stainless steel.
Here’s my plate quench vise build video…. • How to build a plate q...
Heat treat foil….amzn.to/30Fu11k
Snips I use to cut it…amzn.to/3kHRvdh
Where I get my steel…newjerseysteelbaron.com
My heat treat oven…www.soulceramics.com/collecti... - Фільми й анімація
I own several of Matt's knives . And they are awesome and Matt is just a good guy and a pleasure to do business with.
Well I really appreciate that!!
I used to make knife when I was working but not now I am retired now but always thinking to start again but no way to get heat-treats get done , My work place have heat treatment department Thank you so much for showing this video , this is a excellent for people like me .LOT OF THANKS 👍
Thanks for watching!
I can’t wait to get to the stainless level
Pick up an even heat and you’ll be rocking in no time!
Good job
Thank you! Great presentation. I'm not into SS yet, but ... Do you do in your shop workshops?
Thanks. Great video🤘 /Peter from Sweden
Thank you for watching!!
Well done mate!
Thank you! 👊
@@gentrycustomknives8008 Can you explain to me sir why in the HELL 309 forge welds to REX 121 but not..any other alloy at 2192 Ac? I've asked a few metallurgists and Gary Creely who works with REX 121 often. They all agree with my literal GUESS that its the insane amount of 3.4%C and the lack of chromium, so the chromium in the 309/321 wrap would indeed want to bind with the carbon, I also **think?** that perhaps the vanadium also assists in the process with precipitation of micro carbides? Anyone here? lol.
DONT LET THE ICE MELT IN BETWEEN THE PLATES! Not that this needed to be said aha
I can't believe you are using those gloves and 0 IR face shield man. GET EM. Trust me! You want a 3M Shade 3 visor...this will kill your retinas...
looks like my shop lmao. A LITTLE BIT MORE EXPENSIVE? Its 150$ for 50 feeet ffs! but worth every penny. Anti scale is not ideal because your cooling rates will increase which..isnt what we want with knives.
Ss is a lill more complex then what I'm willing to get into but I like seeing the process...who knows some day I may jump into it as well?
Definitely a little more involved then high carbon steels
You can always try AEB-L. Wrap in foil, Heat in a kiln to 1560 and hold for 10 minutes, ramp to 1975 and hold for 15 minutes. Remove from kiln and carefully cut the foil off and hang the knife up in air and/or quench in oil. Once cooled, drop in dry ice and acetone mix until frozen. Temper at 350 or 400 depending on target hardness. It's air hardening and not overly complex for SS
@@usernameisaname I don't have a temp controlled kiln. Just a forge
Hey buddy, I have a 120v even heat oven and it's hard to keep the temp when I put the knives in there. To me it takes to long to come back up. What do you think about putting the blanks in as it's coming up to temp then just letting them soak? So you don't loose all that heat putting them in after it reaches temp.
I don’t think that’ll cause much of an issue
What do for the temper on the 440c? Also when you start your oven for the first fire do you put blades in it till they are up to critical temp and quench right when you reach the temp or do you get your oven to ten then put the blades in and soak for 15 min?
I put blades in once oven is at temp. For my 440c I’m doing a 360f temper
Would using the anti scale compound from jantz work? ATP 641. Instead of the foil wrap?
I have never tried but I have heard that it works pretty good!
I wonder if flooding the oven with nitrogen would be cheaper and faster than foiling all those blades over the years. A tank, some holes for the line, a reg ,and maybe some seal work. Build it easy enough, it's the time it would save, and the recurring stainless foil bill. ✌
Good question! I’ll have to look into that !
Why do you grind after heat treat? What are the advantages doing it this way. I would think it would take much longer to grind the bevels and use more belts up doing it this way. Im sure you have a reason so please tell. Thanks. Great content by the way.
To avoid warping
I'm curious to know what size compressor one would need for this purpose?
I just have a 30 gallon
Greetings. I'm considering the LB18. Have you had any issues with your 22.5? Have you wished you purchased another model or brand? Thanks.
It has been fantastic! Zero issues so far!
Do the blades get anneal after grinding? The reason I ask is a lot of people have trouble sharpening stainless because of the hardness
No just tempered after heat treat
I just bought SOG powerlitre multi tool. Can I DIY heat treat the blade? Is there any easy way to do? Using simpler material
Unfortunately not
Just curious can you reuse the foil considering the cost of it. Thank you for all the info I really appreciate it.
Blessings
Unfortunately not
can you use steel plates for clamping and cooling.
I don’t think so
What dewar would you recommend? Great video
I don’t have one 🤷🏼
Is 440 your preferred stainless to work with
I really am happy with it so far!
So you don’t need to do any type of cryo? I am thinking about venturing into the realm of stainless. I totally agree customers will definitely like the low maintenance of stainless
Check out the heat treat technical specs before picking a steel to work with 👍👍
@@gentrycustomknives8008 so you don’t cryo? I was just curious says you can was just curious if it was necessary
@@adamhackman2089cryo refines most steels and especially high carbon, alloy and stainless. However, it's a refinement and the main heat treatment has to be good in the first place. It's like stropping a butter knife won't get you a razor, but stropping a proper edge will refine it further and allow you to get peak performance. Cryo also is another step and cost. So unless you have a proper temperature controlled heat treating kiln and the rest of the process down, I wouldn't even think about it.
Can you re-use the foil?
Unfortunately not
Hello correct me if I'll be wrong: I plan to temper at 410 Celsius my 302 Stainless Steel (I think that's the steel, a martensite, an INOX steel by Victorinox) for 4 minutes. It's a kind of single layer leaf spring for the Victorinox Swiss Knife scissors so it doesn't break due to metal fatigue.
God bless, Rev. 21:4
I’m not sure about 302 🤔
Are you sure it's not 410 Fahrenheit? 420 Celsius is 770 Fahrenheit and way too high for any blade steel.
Oh and 302 is not a martensitic (hardenable) steel. You would have to figure out what steel you have on your hand exactly and the look up heat treatment recipes for it.
What do u temper the 440 at?
400
I had a question for you . I emailed since it is more detailed. Thanks.
New knife maker here, haven’t even looked into ss yet, BUT, why the steel foil?
Due to the foil's thinness, it takes on the furnace temperature immediately and binds oxygen trapped in the foil packaging. There is then no oxygen present to oxidize the workpiece itself. The workpiece stays clean.
@@gentrycustomknives8008 this just a ss thing? I know some as you cryo freeze?
In the old days you see a typical chef holding a sharpening iron (file) and brushing his knife few times on the file; the days are already gone. The food stuffs at supermarkets are well prepared and no longer need much chopping. Therefore, modern kitchen knives should be hardened to RC62 to 64, and don't bother with tempering. (Since alloy addition may stabilize austenite phase, it may be desirable to temper the blade at liquid nitrogen temperature to reduce the amount of retained austenite.) These knives cannot be sharpened with file, should be honed with 0.5 micron diamond or alumna paste.
👍👍
I think you misspoke, you should absolutely temper any steel that you are hardening. Cryo might not be needed, but tempering certainly is.
But what about the all important Cryo treatment??
Do some research on what stainless you go with and you’ll see it’s not necessary for some
@@gentrycustomknives8008 Eh. Correct but eliminate the word stainless there? I'm not trying to stick words in your mouth brother or criticize you whatsoever. You do this exactly as me. I just have the KO 22.5.
@@veraxknives0331 I’m not sure I follow what you’re saying.
@@themichiganangler4746 certain alloys benefit from cryogenic treatment more than others and it has nothing to do with chromium content it's .. the idea of cryo which also HAS to be done after every temper is you're basically with each temper starting a new martensite start and finish temperature, with the finish being unknown but -320 will do it, to decrease the amount of retained austenite in the iron matrix before it stabilizes. Also, cryogenic treatment AQ can cause warping issues because of the phase change from austenite to hopefully tetragonal martensite so sometimes you.. don't want to do it. Any other questions? I'm an open book lol.
@@veraxknives0331 I totally understand the cryo process. I think I just misunderstood your comment. When I said “stainless” I was referring more to non high carbon steels. ( CPM3v, magnacut, s35, 440c,etc)
New subscriber here.
Thank you!!!
0:56 pfft that's no way to stop people from arguing... You see if you do it this way... Hahaha
😂 😂
I have never heard of anyone not grinding the blade before heat treating..
I would agree if the blade was below 1/8 inch.
Are you not worried on overheating blade when grinding and ruin your temper?
400 deg F isn’t real high…
It’s pretty common.
Why do you put the foil around them.
You need to with stainless to avoid decarb
First off why do you use foil anyway i dont get it unless it keeps it from oxidizing
Correct
@@gentrycustomknives8008 thamks Gent