Stainless Steel Heat Treatment: Oil vs. Plate Quench
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2018
- Testing two different quenching process for stainless steel.
Oil quench is what you see more often and for most high carbon steel, it's also what I have done in every single one of my build video so far. You may have seen plate quenching performed by those maker that treat stainless steel like the very talented Jeremy on the channel "Simple Little Life".
Here the plate quenching vise jig he made and that I plan on copying:
• Awesome & Easy DIY pla...
Check it! :)
Thank you a lot for watching guys, I really hope this video is interesting for some of you.
Cheers!
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Many more voice-overs there:
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You should add paypal account also. With paypal viewers can make one time non-recurring donations.
I know video producers like recurring, but it would serve you well to offer both.
Graph Guy are you going to make a one time non-reoccurring PayPal donation to this channel?, good on you bro that's very commendable
Thank you for asking! I don't know, I like patreon because I can give something back like early access and voice overs you know?
Head over to the Website, check the Shop section and order a pack of Stickers. Win-Win.
Just a Tip and only for a Minute..
@@BlackBeardProjects I have 1.4301 stainless steel what temperature can you harden at?
I love how organized your workshop looks, very professional.
Thank you for keeping this clean and easy to follow, I am here to learn some things about plate quenching.
Jeremy from Simple Little Life rubs his SS blade down with baby powder prior to heat treat in SS pouch. He has a recent video on making a kitchen knife. You both do great work!
That is the trick a lot of knifemakers don't know about. Yet the manufacturers of heat treating foil have been giving that advice to tool and die makers for years.
Been subscribed for a long time. I was just thinking about trying stainless and was looking heat treating info. Good info thanks.
Thanks for showing the process. That was very informative.
Nice work mate cool looking blades and a very informative video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks brother! :)
Thanks a lot! I was searching for this information a lot and you helped me with it) Thank you! Good luck in our new projects 👍
That is really cool man, I had never seen plate quenching before but aluminum makes a lot of sense for the purpose.
I like your hardning test files!
Thanks for the video.
Parabéns pelo o trabalho 😎
NICE .... LOVE THAT PROJECT ....!!! YEA ITS DIFFERENT ....!
Mi sembrava avessi un accento italiano guardo nelle info ed sei italiano complimenti adoro i tuoi video li guarderei per ore ed ore
Bel video, qualche dritta serve sempre quindi continua pure con questo genere di video. Good Job!
Thank you, this saves me alot of trouble 😃
Great test thanks
Lots of information brotha, love the clamp and looking forward to the upgrade. 👊👊👊
Thank you my friend! :)
Lots of good info thanks!
Pretty cool! I've never seen the plate trick before.
I'll buy one of those awesome black simple Tees one day! Love your work, mate!
Thanks for sharing!
You are very good man
This was very interesting to me. But I'm starting to make my own knives. I made myself a little plate quench vise thing (1 inch thick aluminum plates drilled and tapped in a woodworking vise) I can't wait to try it out.
This guy is awesome
Thanks for the info! 👍👊
big thumbs up ,love your channel
Very nice
thanks for that I didn't know what plate quenching was.
I also use Stainless steel tool wrap(321) for normalizing my carbon steel, before heat treat(with anti-scale applied after normalizing) it works real good for keeping off scale. For stainless I use the 309 which is probably what you got too. I just got a face vise(woodworking vise) too. To me, it seems like the hinges will limit you to one size of steel... but you did real good for your 1st stainless. Good Luck, take it easy...
Thank you! I've seen anti-scale stuff for stainless too, to use instead of foil, but it's very expensive. Ever tried?
Yes, the hinge it's a limit for sure, that stock is 3mm so I doubt it would fit 5mm stock or more. Thanks again :)
I've never even heard of antiscale for stainless. I've always found the tool wrap to work great, so I never even thought to look for something else... Interesting though...
good job
thanks mate, saved me some hassle
great video!
Wauuuuuuu it's great 👍 👍 👍
May-ooo
! Daylight come and we drop the bomb !
Nice!
Damn I wish I had a kick ass beard
This is sou asom!!
Eu sou brasileiro mais gosto muito do canal
Your kidding love to know how to heat treat stainless is one of the best things to know :) Good music by the way. Did the oil quench one show hardness at the tip as it did cool down quite a bit. Interesting that it hardened in oil, seems like a good way to go if you have no aluminium plates just for ease of use. could you have quenched the oil one without taking of the foil like you did with the plates? Does the aluminum quench it faster than steel plates? Can you use alu foil to exclude oxygen? Sorry for all the questions. Would love to know.
Thanks!!!
Hardness is within 5 Rc across the blade, might be slightly less but I can't tell. I can't without taking foil off because I feel like foil doesn't have a perfect contact to the knife so it can't take heat out fast enough. Like a steam jacket you know?
Yes aluminum is faster for sure than steel to transfer heat, that's why heatsink are made of alu or copper I think :)
No you can't use alu foil because it would melt at 660°C or so!
Thank you again!
How do you like those files? I guess as long as they are consistently harder from 40-65 you'll know how hard one blade is compared to the next.
I like them a lot! The hardness gap may be too wide for some but for me and just to have an idea works great. Bought mine directly from Japan for around 100€ including shipping and vat so not too bad! :)
I've seen a view old timers use whiteout when they dont want 2 metals to bond while heat treating. I think it's the zinc in the white out. Not too sure on the element that gives the feature. I cant remember.
Hello, I would like to know where you bought the hardness test. Thank you
nice
I have a piston and connecting rod from the Snap On Tools Top Fuel Dragster I'd like to turn into a knife. I just need to figure out how to do it.
Very interesting! Good video mate!
Thanks!!!
You should build a homemade simple power hammer
Jazakalloh khoir
Thanks for this. Is this similar to 304 SS?
You should make video with making and heattreating titanium knife or blade etc.
I wonder why take the sheet off the oil quenched one, why not later so it quenches faster ? For shorter less likely to warp blades at least?
6:59 Tempering an AK receiver?
where you bought those files you use to test the hcr
...cromo, molibdênio, vanádio.. o negócio é tabelar a tabela periódica... muito bom.
After this process, does the stainless steel get rust? Or still maintain its anti-rust feature?
Im thinking you dont need those hinges on the plates. just add another clamp, then you dont have to worry about blade thickness.. also do you think the extra time it took to remove the foil influenced the treatment? Im sure the heat dropped quite a bit before hitting the oil.. I know Cold Steel has a method for oil treatment in cold oil and they have amazing heat treated blades..
Is this stainless steel 316 ? ....can we do heat treatment and tempering on two different day ?
Hinging the plates that way: if you ever use a different thickness, you will need a new set of plates
How much fire do you use in baking? How long does it take to bake
great test! kinda give me some insight of what to do to harden my SS blade in the future,
but I kinda not quite satisfied with the result bcs I feel like the test on the oil quenching is not done well,
I mean, how if the foils was completely removed before quenching? or how if the foil just quenched along with the SS blade without removing it at all? idk if it's just me who already familiar with the oil quenching and expect better result with it but i think oil quenching should be able to do better, haha
Very interesting. Does the foil keep scale off?
Thanks! Yes
Can we use another metal used instead of aluminium
Haha your channel is going bananas 😉 cool BB
Test it without taking off the foil or maybe tear it a little from few places before submerging it to the oil as a package. I have heard that some people have tried it and it should work.
I’m jealous my beard can’t look like yours lol
Hey great video, i guess it depends on how hard, or fragile you want the blade. Was there a right or wrong way with the foil. Learned about plate quenching and that SS needs to be wrapped in foil!!
Thanks mate! I don't know :')
and if you dont remove the foil ?
I used stainless foil for D2 steel and it was also difficult to remove.
Dust your blade liberally with pure talcum powder (no scents or cornstarch added) or aluminum oxide powder..this will prevent the sticking, which is actually the foil welding itself to the steel in spots. The manufacturers of the foil give this advice on their websites.
Hello
This channel is very crazy, I intend to assemble my cutlery in this style soon.
How about you hear a way to build a tempering and tempering station all inside a vacuum chamber?
Does slow metal cooling at room temperature decrease its degree of hardness? Why, for example, if you built a furnace to temper and revenge in a negative pressure environment and after reaching the desired temperature let everything cool slowly ???
regards
You may already know this, but I recently found that foil comes in different temperature grades, maybe why it stuck?
Amazing accent.
Aspetta, ma sei per caso italiano? I tuoi video sono bellissimi
By the way, nice blades. I don't use stainless steel myself. I prefer high carbon steel.
What oil use?
id not heard of this, does this also have advantages for carbon steels too? i see it prevents the warping (sorry, i know little, i only get it from 'forged in fire')
Jusb1066 I have not used plates to quench. However. Certain steels will do better in oil since it is very fast quenching. Warping can occur of course avoiding it more often requires making the knife thick enough to handle the thermal shock without deflection. Most people move on to High Temp Salt baths so that they can control the quench better and avoid warping. The salts baths are quite neat and very effective. Stainless is a miserable steel to deal with from my perspective however due to most customers being unwilling to maintain their knives ( ie oiling them) its what is often used. It also tends to case harden more than through hardening. Hate the stuff. Stainless for bolsters and harleys not blades lol.
As far as I know high carbon steels can't be plate quenched as they need to cool faster to harden :)
Black Beard Projects A1 steel could be plate hardened. Any W or O steels cant. A1 is an air hardening steel. Never used it myself. Damascus or 01 for me. Only use W grade steels for burnishers and gem setting tools.
I did not notice a cryo cycle like i e seen on other videos out there. Is that only needed for certain steels?
late reply but cryo cycle is not "required" for any steel but it gives aprox. 3 rc more hardness on certain steels
Yikes!
My shop looks like a grenade went off in it.
My wife cleaned it once, and I asked her to never do that again.
I couldn’t find ANYTHING!😮
Did you ever figure out how to not get the foil to stick? Just wonder if your supposed to leave it on then just grind it off, wouldn't take much to remove foil
Are you talking Fahrenheit or Celsius temperature?
The problem with Plate Quenching is the edges will take longer to quench unless you made the plates more like a mold for the knife.
What oil do you use is it cooking oil
Over Joy Quidpoan motor oil I think
Try to lower the oil temperature and you will get the same results!
Hey, where did you get your hardness tester file set?
Ebay from Japan!
First like and then watch the video
Nice work maaan
And it's not as messy
Was the the 2 lines you see from you blowing air on it?
Right! I think the colored lines are where the foil was not in contact with the bevels. You can see them in black while I place the blade between the plates if you stop the right frame :)
Would freezing the plates shock the stainless making it weaker or cracking it? 🤫
Probably wouldn't have much of an effect on it as much as having a much larger set of plates to heat sink.
No idea :) Freezer go down to what -20°C? Would be interesting to know if it makes any difference with a blade at 1050°C. I guess it can if the plates are big enough!
Can you not just quench with the foil on and move it round enough to push it against the blade ? That would still take the heat out? Or use a oil on blade to vapour off during heat treatment and do what the paper was ment to do?
Hey, i have some stainless steel and want to use it for my first knife. What happens when i heat treat it without the foil like a knife with high carbon?
Somebody correct me if I’m wrong but heat treating stainless without the foil will decarburize the knife and it won’t be able to fully harden
Salve innanzitutto grazie per i tuoi splendidi video sei davvero geniale!!!
Mi farebbe piacere sapere, se è possibile, la lega dell'alluminio che utilizzi. Sul web leggendo tra i vari siti, ho appreso che l'alluminio al 99% dissipa meglio il calore. Ma online ho trovato spessori dai 20 ai 40 mm solo per particolari leghe tipo la serie 5000, 6000 o 7000 (dette commercialmente anche paralluman, anticorodal, o ergal) potrebbero andare bene per tale scopo???
Te ne sarei infinitamente grato!!! Grazie mille e scusa il distrurbo!!! Continua così....
I ran into a problem with the Floyd plate melting.
i've never understood the point of heating up the oil, does it cool faster if it's warm ? or are you actually trying to slow down the cooling ?
Heating the oil prevents excessive thermal-shock which can cause stress cracks. Even non-stainless steels call for a heated oil. The oil for stainless needs to be less than 125 deg. F and for non-stainless grades around 175-185 deg. F
How to hardening ss 316
I don't understand how oil quenching made a high-hardenability, air-cooled (even slower) stainless end up softer than air cooling. I understand the warping, but not the failure to harden.
In the simple video of life, Jeremy uses talcum powder to not stick
Please tell us is this plate quecnching working with Damascus and carbon steels too I sometimes get wobbling blades
As far as I know high carbon steels can't be plate quenched as they need to cool faster to harden. But I never tried! :')
Black Beard Projects thank you very much for the quick answer. I sometimes get wobbling blades especially long an thin are troublesome.
Okay but they look like chef's knives, so don't throw away the one that's around 55HRC, use it in your own kitchen! ;) 👍 Ideally you want it a bit harder, but some German chef's knives come in at 56HRC. Or re-heat-treat it, it's not like that hasn't happened before to anyone, *cough, cough* lol!
Ahah! Right! That's exactly what I'll do, I'll keep the oil one for me to use :) Thank you!
Why didn't you quench with foil on?
Just wondering where did you get the files
Ebay from Japan!
Nice video, btw no Justin Y. Im free :D
Magari potresti fare una versione del video con audio in italiano per i meno global......comunque bel video!
👍👍👍👍👍👍