Great Video, Thanks for taking the time to make it. If I could offer two recommendations? 1. It would have been helpful if you videoed the removal of the wires from the board. 2. It would have been helpful if you videoed the full replacement of wires and the setup required to get the unit fully functional. Again, thanks for taking the time to make a great video, one of the only ones out there that explains problems with GD lights.
I know this is an old video... but it is just crazy that the difference for me was LED vs classic bulb. I don't have any non-led bulbs anymore. So when this light went out I replaced it with LED and it didn't work. I tried another... no luck. I went to Google and found this video. I dug around the house for an old school bulb and low and behold, it started working. That is crazy.
Well, it could be based on current draw. It’s like changing your turn signal bulbs in your car to LED. They might not require enough power to activate the relay, but a filament bulb would. LED might not reach the minimal threshold. I didn’t think about using an incandescent bulb.
there are 2 boards in mine: 1 the main PCB, the 2nd for the relays. I can hear a relay click when i push the light button, so i'm thinking one of the other 3 relays is bad on my 2nd board. i will have to test them with a multimeter before i find out. the relays go for $5-$10 each on amazon, but will need to be soldered on after unsoldering the old ones. So i am weighing the pros & cons of buying the entire unit that includes both PCB's for $71 (which i will probably need reprogramming) or just buying the relay(s) that will need to be soldered. One of the light sockets is also corroded and breaking, im not sure if this contributed to the problem
I know this is an old video, but just a warning about CFL's--the flash feature *will* ruin the bulbs (the arc is struck by blasting a 600V charge across the cathodes, which really eats them away).
I came into my garage via a regular door and the garage light was on. I opened the garage door and closed it again. After 5 minutes it went off again. We've been having heavy winds here today. I think the wind must have hit the door and triggered the light. Glad I found this video for future reference though.
geez, might almost pay to get a really old opener before they put all that junk in them. Not too many relays are silent. I messed up fixing a light switch at a friends house due to an assumption like that, tho. One of the switches was known to be bad in a 3 gang box. Another was completely silent, so I thought it was on the way out. Also, the switches were a hodgepodge of styles, so my attitude is just place all of them then they're all new and matching. Well, the one silent switch was a mercury switch, so of course it's silent, and basically can never fail. It was a shame to replace that one, but because I wasn't familiar with it, I didn't' know what it was until after I had the new ones in.
In my case, it was the CFL bulb large base would not allow the bulb center contact to connect with the socket tab. I switched to incandescent and the light works fine. I have not tried LED's as yet.
In general you can fix that problem by using your finger or a small tool to pull that center tab back up (make sure the device is unplugged of course) since they get pushed down over time when the bulb is installed. Works for any light fixture not just garage door openers.
OMG! Thank you so much for your comment and explanation. We just moved in and there was only one bulb (an appliance bulb of all things) in our Chamberlain Liftmaster. I tried new LED bulbs but they didn’t work so I assumed it had something to do with the LED bulbs. Today I tried brand new incandescent bulbs but they didn’t work either! So frustrated. I noticed that the base of the new bulbs was very flat compared to the little appliance bulb but wasn’t sure what I could do about it. I scanned several articles and you tube videos and stumbled upon your comment on this video. I just did as you suggested, unplugged the unit and pulled the tab in the socket forward a bit. It worked!!! Both bulbs work just fine. Thank you so much.
Great video. I have, what appears to be, the same Chamberlain garage door opener. The door opens and closes just fine, but neither of the lights work. I replaced the bulbs, and that wasn't it. I tried your tests: When I walk through the stream, no relay click. When I plug/unplug the unit, I hear the click. Here is my question: Is there a circuit board on both sides of the unit? And if so, would both need to be replaced? Or is there just one on the back of the unit. And also, I see that these boards on Amazon go for 70-something bucks. Is that about what yours cost? Thanks, Tom!
@@detroitsumo You have got to be kidding me. That totally worked! Took out the two LED bulbs, popped in two classic 100 watt bulbs, and the lights came on immediately! I guess this is the first time in my life that procrastination paid off, as I had not yet gotten around to ordering the new circuit board. Thanks for the reply, and thanks again to @TOM2RN for posting the original video which led to the reply! I'm gonna go walk in and out of my garage for a bit and watch the lights turn on and off!
@@detroitsumo Hello there! My light wasn't working. I followed the advice to quickly unplug and plug the unit back in, heard the relay click, still not working. I replaced the newly installed LED blub with an old school 60W incandescent and works like a charm! Thanks for the tip!!!! Greatly appreciated!
Hello, good video. My Chamberlin Liftmaster professional garage door opener the light doesn't work. I've replaced the bulb with a garage door bulb at which time it worked a few times occasionally, but not now. Any suggestions? Thank you, John
Do you here a click in the unit when you pass through the door sensor? No click generally means the relay is bad. Unplug the unit and gently pull the center tab in the socket out to make sure it is making contact with the bulb base. Have power running to the socket and use a multimeter. One probe to the center tab and one to the threaded area. Should read 120 volts ac. Careful, don’t get zapped.
I have a Chamberlain and when I moved into my house my light never worked, the opener works just no light. I replaced the bulb and still nothing. What do you think the problem could be?
Do you hear a clicking sound when you turn on the lights? If so, there’s a little metal tab in the light socket, bend it out (with the opener unplugged) with a flathead screw driver.
I think I figured out the problems with your garage door opener light not working because it your bad control board in the back of it if you unplugged it in plug it in few time you will hear a relay click and light work but it doesn’t stay on if you replace it that will fix your opener problems
I think I have this problem. I hear the relay but the lights do not come on. If I change the board would I have to program the garage opener and remotes all over again? Thanks for this video!
My light does everything it is supposed to do except for come on if you walk past the sensor. Is there anything it could be besides a bad board? The light works great.
Is the light on the sensor working? If it is green then it should work since it means it is aligned. If it is orange, then it is out of alignment. No light would mean no power to the sensor.
@@TOM2RN Yes the lights on the sensor work. One will flash if I walk through but the garage light will not come on. Only comes on when the door opens or closes. Both lights are green.
@@TOM2RN No click. I have been trying to find a way to make the light better also. I put a great bulb in but it is angled toward the ceiling and the ceiling goes up into the attic so i get very little light actually illuminating the garage area when just using the garage door opener light. Any ideas? If I got a motion light it probably would not work because the garage door light does put off some light and motion sensors usually only work in the dark.
Good point since those items become less expensive as time passes. I now have the IFTTT app which means I can turn a light on X distance from my house as determined by cellular. It needs WiFi to connect to my device.
Great Video, Thanks for taking the time to make it. If I could offer two recommendations? 1. It would have been helpful if you videoed the removal of the wires from the board. 2. It would have been helpful if you videoed the full replacement of wires and the setup required to get the unit fully functional. Again, thanks for taking the time to make a great video, one of the only ones out there that explains problems with GD lights.
Adding the circuit board model to the description would be a good idea. Good video
Thanks for the video. I just bought a house and have the exact problem with my detached garage. Now I know what to get and do. Appreciate it.
I thought about giving the part number, but there are variations between models. I didn’t want someone ordering the incorrect one.
Thank you for taking time to make this video, very helpful and precise condition. Part number which was ordered in the description would have helped.
I know this is an old video... but it is just crazy that the difference for me was LED vs classic bulb. I don't have any non-led bulbs anymore. So when this light went out I replaced it with LED and it didn't work. I tried another... no luck. I went to Google and found this video. I dug around the house for an old school bulb and low and behold, it started working. That is crazy.
Well, it could be based on current draw. It’s like changing your turn signal bulbs in your car to LED. They might not require enough power to activate the relay, but a filament bulb would. LED might not reach the minimal threshold. I didn’t think about using an incandescent bulb.
Thank you it did help me..great job
there are 2 boards in mine: 1 the main PCB, the 2nd for the relays. I can hear a relay click when i push the light button, so i'm thinking one of the other 3 relays is bad on my 2nd board. i will have to test them with a multimeter before i find out. the relays go for $5-$10 each on amazon, but will need to be soldered on after unsoldering the old ones. So i am weighing the pros & cons of buying the entire unit that includes both PCB's for $71 (which i will probably need reprogramming) or just buying the relay(s) that will need to be soldered. One of the light sockets is also corroded and breaking, im not sure if this contributed to the problem
not sure
You can’t lose by trying to replace the relays only.
I know this is an old video, but just a warning about CFL's--the flash feature *will* ruin the bulbs (the arc is struck by blasting a 600V charge across the cathodes, which really eats them away).
Thanks. I learned something.
I came into my garage via a regular door and the garage light was on. I opened the garage door and closed it again. After 5 minutes it went off again. We've been having heavy winds here today. I think the wind must have hit the door and triggered the light. Glad I found this video for future reference though.
geez, might almost pay to get a really old opener before they put all that junk in them.
Not too many relays are silent.
I messed up fixing a light switch at a friends house due to an assumption like that, tho. One of the switches was known to be bad in a 3 gang box. Another was completely silent, so I thought it was on the way out. Also, the switches were a hodgepodge of styles, so my attitude is just place all of them then they're all new and matching. Well, the one silent switch was a mercury switch, so of course it's silent, and basically can never fail. It was a shame to replace that one, but because I wasn't familiar with it, I didn't' know what it was until after I had the new ones in.
In my case, it was the CFL bulb large base would not allow the bulb center contact to connect with the socket tab. I switched to incandescent and the light works fine. I have not tried LED's as yet.
For me it was not the CFL bulb large base wouldn't allow contact, it just wouldn't work. Switched to an incandescent and it worked fine.
In general you can fix that problem by using your finger or a small tool to pull that center tab back up (make sure the device is unplugged of course) since they get pushed down over time when the bulb is installed. Works for any light fixture not just garage door openers.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This worked for me too on a 15-year-old unit.
OMG! Thank you so much for your comment and explanation. We just moved in and there was only one bulb (an appliance bulb of all things) in our Chamberlain Liftmaster. I tried new LED bulbs but they didn’t work so I assumed it had something to do with the LED bulbs. Today I tried brand new incandescent bulbs but they didn’t work either! So frustrated. I noticed that the base of the new bulbs was very flat compared to the little appliance bulb but wasn’t sure what I could do about it. I scanned several articles and you tube videos and stumbled upon your comment on this video. I just did as you suggested, unplugged the unit and pulled the tab in the socket forward a bit. It worked!!! Both bulbs work just fine. Thank you so much.
Great video. I have, what appears to be, the same Chamberlain garage door opener. The door opens and closes just fine, but neither of the lights work. I replaced the bulbs, and that wasn't it. I tried your tests: When I walk through the stream, no relay click. When I plug/unplug the unit, I hear the click. Here is my question: Is there a circuit board on both sides of the unit? And if so, would both need to be replaced? Or is there just one on the back of the unit. And also, I see that these boards on Amazon go for 70-something bucks. Is that about what yours cost? Thanks, Tom!
Brian Murphy
Mine was on the back only. 70ish bucks is about right. Easy repair.
@@TOM2RN Thanks! I'll keep you posted!
Hi Brian, I had the same issue and the easy fix was not to use LED bulbs. Seems silly but the LED bulbs were interfereing with the board.
@@detroitsumo You have got to be kidding me. That totally worked! Took out the two LED bulbs, popped in two classic 100 watt bulbs, and the lights came on immediately! I guess this is the first time in my life that procrastination paid off, as I had not yet gotten around to ordering the new circuit board. Thanks for the reply, and thanks again to @TOM2RN for posting the original video which led to the reply! I'm gonna go walk in and out of my garage for a bit and watch the lights turn on and off!
@@detroitsumo Hello there! My light wasn't working. I followed the advice to quickly unplug and plug the unit back in, heard the relay click, still not working. I replaced the newly installed LED blub with an old school 60W incandescent and works like a charm! Thanks for the tip!!!! Greatly appreciated!
Hello, good video. My Chamberlin Liftmaster professional garage door opener the light doesn't work. I've replaced the bulb with a garage door bulb at which time it worked a few times occasionally, but not now. Any suggestions? Thank you, John
Do you here a click in the unit when you pass through the door sensor? No click generally means the relay is bad. Unplug the unit and gently pull the center tab in the socket out to make sure it is making contact with the bulb base. Have power running to the socket and use a multimeter. One probe to the center tab and one to the threaded area. Should read 120 volts ac. Careful, don’t get zapped.
I have a Chamberlain and when I moved into my house my light never worked, the opener works just no light. I replaced the bulb and still nothing. What do you think the problem could be?
Do you hear a clicking sound when you turn on the lights?
If so, there’s a little metal tab in the light socket, bend it out (with the opener unplugged) with a flathead screw driver.
I think I figured out the problems with your garage door opener light not working because it your bad control board in the back of it if you unplugged it in plug it in few time you will hear a relay click and light work but it doesn’t stay on if you replace it that will fix your opener problems
Perfect, thanks so much!
Thank you. Would it help to plug it into a surge protector?
Hadn’t thought of it. Can’t hurt.
Thanks
I think I have this problem. I hear the relay but the lights do not come on. If I change the board would I have to program the garage opener and remotes all over again? Thanks for this video!
Emil Max Yes. It’s a do over so to speak. The remotes have to match the new board configuration.
Thank you again for the information! 👍
hold the light button on the control for 10 seconds
Good information, but at least you could left the website and the name of the part
My light does everything it is supposed to do except for come on if you walk past the sensor. Is there anything it could be besides a bad board?
The light works great.
Is the light on the sensor working? If it is green then it should work since it means it is aligned. If it is orange, then it is out of alignment. No light would mean no power to the sensor.
@@TOM2RN Yes the lights on the sensor work. One will flash if I walk through but the garage light will not come on. Only comes on when the door opens or closes. Both lights are green.
@@IanRLewis
Do you hear a click from the board when you walk through the sensor? If not, then most likely the board. Usually the relay goes bad.
@@TOM2RN No click. I have been trying to find a way to make the light better also. I put a great bulb in but it is angled toward the ceiling and the ceiling goes up into the attic so i get very little light actually illuminating the garage area when just using the garage door opener light. Any ideas? If I got a motion light it probably would not work because the garage door light does put off some light and motion sensors usually only work in the dark.
@@IanRLewis
It may sound goofy, but I use aluminum foil as a reflector. I have an old school light which had no reflector and that is what I used.
Did you have to change the car remote codes?
No. They were still good.
good deal
Dorecia Craft /
I think before I would spend that much money for a circuit board, I would install a motion sensor light for a lot less money.
Good point since those items become less expensive as time passes. I now have the IFTTT app which means I can turn a light on X distance from my house as determined by cellular. It needs WiFi to connect to my device.
For me it was the LED bulb. Changed with regular bulb and it works perfectly
OMG! Get to it already! I cant stand all that UNECESSARY talking! I could not last 10 minutes - I had to click off the video! Down Vote!
Advice coming from someone who has been on 7 months and has no subscribers. Troll comes to mind.