Hi Nick, I'm almost at the stage I want to stain my boat. The cedar I have is very light almost pine colour. The Behlen supply colour range in Australia is very limited. I can't seem to get the light red mahogany so I may try blood red or medium red mahogany. Amazon US don't ship it to Australia. I'll do a bit of experimenting maybe dilute if too dark. Do you know any other brands that are similar to Behlen? The epoxy I'm planning to use is apparently UV resistant and I'll probably use a UV varnish as well. I don't know if this will make it safe to use non-UV stains.
I have diluted the stain successfully. You can use their reducer or just add what we call "denatured alcohol" (methylated spirits?). This reduced the level of color added by each coat of stain. There are "UV" tolerant epoxies offered for the surfboard industry available here. My understanding is that they will last a bit longer than your standard epoxy, but they are not really UV proof. You will probably be happy to also apply a UV protective varnish or top coat.
@@NickSchade Exactly correct Nick, denatured alcohol is called methylated spirits in Australia. Methyl alcohol added to ethyl alcohol to make it toxic.
Have you ever tried putting you pigment into your epoxy? I have recently had to fill a half inch crack in a table and by tinting the epoxy it blend better. What would be your thoughts on doing something like that when wetting out a peace?
I have poured the stain I use on the wood directly into epoxy to tint the epoxy when I wanted a tone to match already stained wood. I have not added pigment to the epoxy when I'm covering the wood with that epoxy. I think it would tend to interfere with the clarity of the epoxy and obscure the wood grain a bit.
I bought some of this stain to put it on my latest kayak. I tested it on a scrap. As you know it dries rapidly. How do I prevent from looking “blotchy” because of this fast drying time? Thanks!
Shellac is not applicable in this situation. The wood is going to be fiberglassed and epoxied, it will not be varnished directly. Standard stain is incompatible with epoxy. The stain being used is alcohol based stain. Shellac is dissolved in alcohol. The stain would dissolve the shellac, and shellac will mix with the stain. Shellac is good stuff, but this is not a suitable purpose for it.
I just posted another video where I'm staining the whole boat, where you can see my method of wetting down the whole boat with denatured alcohol after staining. ua-cam.com/video/-6vsXdFtP-4/v-deo.html
Nice tip about not staining the strips prior to the sanding step. Thanks for sharing.
Completely agree with colour combination selected, nice work...
I too like your color choice of stains !
good choice
I do like the choice you made for the stain. If I use staples, will the holes darken with stain from application?
Stain does darken the holes a bit, but really reduces the overall visibility of them.
Very interesting, thank you 🙂
Hi Nick,
I'm almost at the stage I want to stain my boat. The cedar I have is very light almost pine colour. The Behlen supply colour range in Australia is very limited. I can't seem to get the light red mahogany so I may try blood red or medium red mahogany. Amazon US don't ship it to Australia. I'll do a bit of experimenting maybe dilute if too dark. Do you know any other brands that are similar to Behlen? The epoxy I'm planning to use is apparently UV resistant and I'll probably use a UV varnish as well. I don't know if this will make it safe to use non-UV stains.
I have diluted the stain successfully. You can use their reducer or just add what we call "denatured alcohol" (methylated spirits?). This reduced the level of color added by each coat of stain.
There are "UV" tolerant epoxies offered for the surfboard industry available here. My understanding is that they will last a bit longer than your standard epoxy, but they are not really UV proof. You will probably be happy to also apply a UV protective varnish or top coat.
@@NickSchade Exactly correct Nick, denatured alcohol is called methylated spirits in Australia. Methyl alcohol added to ethyl alcohol to make it toxic.
Have you ever tried putting you pigment into your epoxy? I have recently had to fill a half inch crack in a table and by tinting the epoxy it blend better. What would be your thoughts on doing something like that when wetting out a peace?
I have poured the stain I use on the wood directly into epoxy to tint the epoxy when I wanted a tone to match already stained wood.
I have not added pigment to the epoxy when I'm covering the wood with that epoxy. I think it would tend to interfere with the clarity of the epoxy and obscure the wood grain a bit.
I've been watching you videos for years and read a book or two of yours, I really like your work.
@@garyirwin5502 0l
I bought some of this stain to put it on my latest kayak. I tested it on a scrap. As you know it dries rapidly. How do I prevent from looking “blotchy” because of this fast drying time? Thanks!
I put it on really wet, and move fast. If it ends up blotchy, I wipe it down with denatured alcohol to even it out.
Try a very light coat of fresh shellac first. Then stain. Then varnish.
Shellac is not applicable in this situation. The wood is going to be fiberglassed and epoxied, it will not be varnished directly. Standard stain is incompatible with epoxy. The stain being used is alcohol based stain. Shellac is dissolved in alcohol. The stain would dissolve the shellac, and shellac will mix with the stain.
Shellac is good stuff, but this is not a suitable purpose for it.
Nick Schade Thank you for the correction. Never stop learning.
I just posted another video where I'm staining the whole boat, where you can see my method of wetting down the whole boat with denatured alcohol after staining. ua-cam.com/video/-6vsXdFtP-4/v-deo.html
:-)