My father passed away recently and I inherited his old bandsaw which I have just finished refurbishing in line with your videos. Excellently produced, clear and lucid, even bought the belt and sawblade to boot, and it works perfectly. That said one of the wheel bearing surface had eroded badly and was slack to say the least. Fortunately a friend kindly bored out the hub and inserted a small roller bearing, in fact he did two as a second was also showing signs of wear. (In line with Jeremy's comment on bearing below.) Well worth doing if you have the facilities or a handy friend!
Dopo tante ricerche sono capitato per caso da te. Se ho capito bene tu dovresti avere una sega a nastro Black&Decker DN339 perchè è simile a quella del video (Burgess BBS-20). Ne ho anche io una così potresti dirmi la circonferenza della cinghia di trasmissione (di gomma dentata) e dove l'hai reperita? Se è la stessa, ti sarei grato se mi rispondessi. Ciao
John, Thanks for the video. I have a Black and Decker similar model and your detailed explanation of the top wheel adjustment was the key bit of information to keep the blade from popping off. Taking the table off the saw made adjusting the guides much easier. My guides are a different design but again your explanation and insights made all the differnce. Cheers, Pete
JW, thank you. I was given one of these for a pittance but I found that here, in Australia, it was hard to find blades to suit. That is now sorted but I was having a hell of a time fitting a blade and getting tension. Back I came to your video and I think I now have the solution. Tomorrow will tell!
Thank you for this video. I have just been given a Powerline BK1 saw and as I have never used one previously I had no knowledge of setting it up. I have found your excellent video very beneficial.
Just been given a bandsaw of the same size (different model mine is Burgess BK3). I am a complete novice. Your instructions were very helpful indeed John. Many thanks.
great clear presentation and thank you for not having background music on there . i have a powerline bandsaw which i bought 40 years ago , slightly different adjustments but looks the same . and it still works , ( Not made in China) i have a metal blade and wood blade . i stumbled across your presentation and enjoyed listening to you . although i didn't need to.
Hi John Thanks for this series I have a powerline model which is almost identical to your item I have had this machine for over twenty years and have had no joy with it until today after i found you video I have been so close to throwing this saw away over the years Great channel
Thank you so much for uploading these videos. I just bought a M1 model of this machine (for very little money) which looks identical to the one in the video so I hope to achieve the same results. Cheers!
3:04 'Graunched ' made me chuckle, Had always thought this word was exclusive to northern England. nice vid - was half expecting blood to flow from handling those new blades without gloves on though ;)
Picked one of these up at car boot.Got it all working then noticed bottom left hand wheel had nothing holding it in place ? Letting wheel move back and forth is this right or should it have a fixing on it
I have one of these units and I have two questions. 1. No matter what settings I try, the cut always wanders off to the left. What could be the cause of this? 2. What is the purpose of the plastic roller in front of the blade? It does not touch anything and seems to serve no purpose at all! Thank you for makeing these videos - very useful.
Thank you for a very helpful video. I just bought the same model on eBay: the Burgess BBS20 MkII. However, instead of rollers in front and behind mine just has one roller behind the blade below the table and hardwood dowels either side of the blade both above and below the table. The dowels are held in place by grub screws.
Just put on a blade on mine and I'm having an issue with it slipping off the bottom left hand wheel. A little bit infuriating. Any ideas how to stop this? Thanks for the videos Jdub!
Good video. I have the same saw but the blade runs on the outer front edge of the drive wheel. The top wheel adjustment has no effect on the blade position on the bottom wheel. How do I get the blade to run on the drive belt? Thank you
Width shouldn't make any difference, it's the shape of the wheel which keeps the blade in the centre (provided the wheel is aligned properly). This website: woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html describes how it works.
I worked as a technician in a secondary school and we had several of these machines. Eventually health and safety came in and they were banned from use. From my perspective of repairing and maintaining equipment I felt they were quite poorly made form an engineering perspective and had the makers spent a few extra pounds on making them better they would not have gone bust. The majority of the machine was made from a die cast zinc alloy. This made the parts not very rigid and tended to flex. The idea of bearings was lost to a great degree. At least you can buy a fairly good machine today, probably made in China but what the heck. It will have a well known brand name and be made out of steel and last a long time. and probably less than a couple of hundred pounds. But thanks for the video it was good to watch and people should not be put off buying one if it's cheap and you are happy to cut light materials.
It's a standard size blade, 56.5 inches length (1435mm). Available here: www.tuffsaws.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=4_7&product_id=15 and many other blade suppliers.
hi john first of all thank you for replying.ive looked on the site and it as the correct size 56.5 but it also asks what TPI dont know what this stands for ?
Looks to be a fairly inexpensive band saw. The plastic wheels without bearings give it away. Good finale to a reasonably good video series. Probably not too many videos of this saw.
yes these were faily common in the 70's, i had my hands on more than 1 in the 80s but all the ones i saw the wheel centres had been wallowed out to the point you could not keep a blade on them, and no way to repair them. johns wheels fit well, people cranked up the blade tension and didnt lube the wheels, so the centres melted a bit. Burgess were a british company, made other things, engraver, dremel like tools, ac powered spray gun, not well made, relied on plastic parts for a lot of the most stressed areas (such as these wheels with no internal bushing even) so had a short life. but were the cheapest of their type for the home hobbyist, before taiwan then china came into it
Maybe you could 3D print new wheels these days... don't know if many would bothers since 3D printing arrived a bit later than cheap import power tools. I hear a lot of plastic parts for classic cars get made this way now.
@@yvettelov5855 The hardwood dowels are a very good idea. Soak them in oil for a day or so. You can then virtually touch the side of the blades with the dowels. I have a much larger bandsaw than the Burgess and it came with bearing guides. I took them off and replaced them with the dowels. Cheap and can be frequently replaced if needed.
Very Interesting video I have a similar, I might say a photo copy, bandsaw which I am restoring bought it in a car boot sale. The name of the Bandsaw is CORNERSTONE by Hawthorn Baker Ltd Dunstable Bedfordshire.I need to buy a toothed belt for this machine can anybody tell me were can I buy one or give me the size of the belt. Thanks.
My father passed away recently and I inherited his old bandsaw which I have just finished refurbishing in line with your videos. Excellently produced, clear and lucid, even bought the belt and sawblade to boot, and it works perfectly. That said one of the wheel bearing surface had eroded badly and was slack to say the least. Fortunately a friend kindly bored out the hub and inserted a small roller bearing, in fact he did two as a second was also showing signs of wear. (In line with Jeremy's comment on bearing below.) Well worth doing if you have the facilities or a handy friend!
Dopo tante ricerche sono capitato per caso da te. Se ho capito bene tu dovresti avere una sega a nastro Black&Decker DN339 perchè è simile a quella del video
(Burgess BBS-20). Ne ho anche io una così potresti dirmi la circonferenza della cinghia di trasmissione (di gomma dentata) e dove l'hai reperita? Se è la stessa, ti sarei grato se mi rispondessi. Ciao
John,
Thanks for the video. I have a Black and Decker similar model and your detailed explanation of the top wheel adjustment was the key bit of information to keep the blade from popping off. Taking the table off the saw made adjusting the guides much easier. My guides are a different design but again your explanation and insights made all the differnce.
Cheers,
Pete
JW, thank you. I was given one of these for a pittance but I found that here, in Australia, it was hard to find blades to suit. That is now sorted but I was having a hell of a time fitting a blade and getting tension. Back I came to your video and I think I now have the solution. Tomorrow will tell!
Thank you for this video. I have just been given a Powerline BK1 saw and as I have never used one previously I had no knowledge of setting it up. I have found your excellent video very beneficial.
Just been given a bandsaw of the same size (different model mine is Burgess BK3). I am a complete novice. Your instructions were very helpful indeed John. Many thanks.
great clear presentation and thank you for not having background music on there . i have a powerline bandsaw which i bought 40 years ago , slightly different adjustments but looks the same . and it still works , ( Not made in China) i have a metal blade and wood blade . i stumbled across your presentation and enjoyed listening to you . although i didn't need to.
Just bought the exact same model so this was extremely useful when it came to putting it all back together. Many thanks Mr ward
Hi John
Thanks for this series
I have a powerline model which is almost identical to your item
I have had this machine for over twenty years and have had no joy with it until today after i found you video
I have been so close to throwing this saw away over the years
Great channel
nice Job john, you obviously knew how to adjust it, no issues from the first startup
Thank you so much for uploading these videos. I just bought a M1 model of this machine (for very little money) which looks identical to the one in the video so I hope to achieve the same results. Cheers!
3:04 'Graunched ' made me chuckle, Had always thought this word was exclusive to northern England.
nice vid - was half expecting blood to flow from handling those new blades without gloves on though ;)
Picked one of these up at car boot.Got it all working then noticed bottom left hand wheel had nothing holding it in place ? Letting wheel move back and forth is this right or should it have a fixing on it
All the wheels should have fixings - as can be seen in the other videos, ua-cam.com/play/PLVsHvs2Suqmq7TnZVFDWHW8xQ5VOcrAsH.html
Is it not fine blade for metal and coarse for wood? Number of teeth per inch like in hacksaws?
I have one of these units and I have two questions.
1. No matter what settings I try, the cut always wanders off to the left. What could be the cause of this?
2. What is the purpose of the plastic roller in front of the blade? It does not touch anything and seems to serve no purpose at all!
Thank you for makeing these videos - very useful.
Thank you for a very helpful video. I just bought the same model on eBay: the Burgess BBS20 MkII. However, instead of rollers in front and behind mine just has one roller behind the blade below the table and hardwood dowels either side of the blade both above and below the table. The dowels are held in place by grub screws.
Just put on a blade on mine and I'm having an issue with it slipping off the bottom left hand wheel. A little bit infuriating. Any ideas how to stop this? Thanks for the videos Jdub!
Good video. I have the same saw but the blade runs on the outer front edge of the drive wheel. The top wheel adjustment has no effect on the blade position on the bottom wheel. How do I get the blade to run on the drive belt? Thank you
Maybe the spring needs replacing? Exelant & informative videos, thanks.
Love your videos . Your explanations and style are spot on. Thank you.
Nice job..That really runs quiet. I Like the color too.
Excellent job in every way! THANK U
hi john im thinking perhaps i should have got a wider blade rather than the quater inch maybe stay on then
Width shouldn't make any difference, it's the shape of the wheel which keeps the blade in the centre (provided the wheel is aligned properly). This website: woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html describes how it works.
I would be very interested to know how many of these were made. Many thousands I would guess. Makes you feel proud.
Lovely bit of work. And a handy bit of kit to have in the workshop.
Good job, I do like making things nice again...love videos like these.
Looks lovely John.
Good job. Great explanation too.
Thanks for the video.
hi again re my message if these blades are available were can i get 1 from
Nice paint colour. British Racing Green?
I worked as a technician in a secondary school and we had several of these machines. Eventually health and safety came in and they were banned from use.
From my perspective of repairing and maintaining equipment I felt they were quite poorly made form an engineering perspective and had the makers spent a few extra pounds on making them better they would not have gone bust.
The majority of the machine was made from a die cast zinc alloy. This made the parts not very rigid and tended to flex.
The idea of bearings was lost to a great degree.
At least you can buy a fairly good machine today, probably made in China but what the heck. It will have a well known brand name and be made out of steel and last a long time. and probably less than a couple of hundred pounds.
But thanks for the video it was good to watch and people should not be put off buying one if it's cheap and you are happy to cut light materials.
hi john my blade as snapped can i still get a replacement blake thank you
It's a standard size blade, 56.5 inches length (1435mm).
Available here: www.tuffsaws.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=4_7&product_id=15 and many other blade suppliers.
hi john first of all thank you for replying.ive looked on the site and it as the correct size 56.5 but it also asks what TPI dont know what this stands for ?
Teeth per inch.
Xin hỏi chiều dài lưỡi cưa này là 1400 mm phải không anh?!
1435 mm, 56.5 inches.
@@jwflame cám ơn chú rất nhiều!
what's that pipe arrangement above your head and to your left? at the end.
PovertyLabs I was thinking part of an extractor system. the saw is awesome, tangobaldy is impressed
Looks like a brush attachment for a hoover.
Looks to be a fairly inexpensive band saw. The plastic wheels without bearings give it away. Good finale to a reasonably good video series. Probably not too many videos of this saw.
yes these were faily common in the 70's, i had my hands on more than 1 in the 80s but all the ones i saw the wheel centres had been wallowed out to the point you could not keep a blade on them, and no way to repair them. johns wheels fit well, people cranked up the blade tension and didnt lube the wheels, so the centres melted a bit. Burgess were a british company, made other things, engraver, dremel like tools, ac powered spray gun, not well made, relied on plastic parts for a lot of the most stressed areas (such as these wheels with no internal bushing even) so had a short life. but were the cheapest of their type for the home hobbyist, before taiwan then china came into it
Maybe you could 3D print new wheels these days... don't know if many would bothers since 3D printing arrived a bit later than cheap import power tools.
I hear a lot of plastic parts for classic cars get made this way now.
youd need machining ability to get the hole round and centred, you could save the old wheels if you had that capabilty
@@jusb1066 Should be easy enough to fit a bush into the wheels.
@@dalekify if you have machining abilities to make bushing
I found the main problem with 3 wheel bandsaws is that you need three hands to install the blade.
According toi the instruction the spring should be on the outside of the case
What size is the blade?
4:00
you didn't drop the top guide to 2 cm from the wood you were cutting
Nice job!
Interesting series. Thanks. M
Could anyone help me source some replacement blade guides for the Burgess BBS20 mk2 please any help welcome
Just got one of these and noticed a comment about hard wood dowels ? What did you do in the end
@@yvettelov5855 The hardwood dowels are a very good idea. Soak them in oil for a day or so. You can then virtually touch the side of the blades with the dowels. I have a much larger bandsaw than the Burgess and it came with bearing guides. I took them off and replaced them with the dowels. Cheap and can be frequently replaced if needed.
Toll.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen aus Deutschland
Martin Höft
very very very excellent
Thx for blade size
I found one in the local tip whoops 🥳
No PPE John? :/
Very Interesting video I have a similar, I might say a photo copy, bandsaw which I am restoring bought it in a car boot sale. The name of the Bandsaw is CORNERSTONE by Hawthorn Baker Ltd Dunstable Bedfordshire.I need to buy a toothed belt for this machine can anybody tell me were can I buy one or give me the size of the belt. Thanks.
So much waffle that I fell asleep. Also learn to speak a sentence without letting your voice drop to a mumble near the end.