Strong Floating Shelves
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
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I'm sure there are lots of ways, many different ways to build floating shelves. There are people on UA-cam who come up with creative ways to do pretty much anything and I'm sure building floating shelves is no different. I haven't looked to see what other people have done partly because I've had an idea in my own mind as to how I would do it. But I never had the reason to put my idea to the test, until now. I'm finishing a project for a customer and the last thing to do is to build floating shelves.
I like the idea of doing away with shelf support brackets, but in my own mind I wondered, how do you make the shelves strong enough without the brackets to support a pretty good load. So my idea, which I'm sure is not new or particularly original, is to try to keep the weight down on all the pieces of the shelf but at same time try to give it as much strength to hold typical things that people put on shelves.
So the strength of the shelf is achieved through the way it's internal structure is attached to the wall. Ideally if you hit studs with screws or bolts you're way ahead of the game. If that's not possible then attaching with fasteners that clamp to the back of the sheet rock to hold the structure in place is the next best option. The shell that goes over the structure and provides your finished look for your floating shelf also needs to be as lightweight as possible. Because in doing that you allow more weight to be placed on the shelf and not create a problem with sagging.
So my idea is pretty simple and uses a 1" x 1.5" piece of pine lumber attached to the wall which has suspended off of it 1.5 x 1.5 x 8.25 inch shelf support pieces that are attached with a mortise and tennon type of glue joint. For this video I'm going to show a couple of different ways to attach these pieces and I think either one is plenty strong to do the job.
I had some questions in my own mind as I was doing this as to how strong this really would be and so I did a video last week that I have linked up in the corner that is dedicated completely to checking the strength of this set up. It compares the strength of the glue joints to the strength of sheet rock with toggle bolt types of fasteners and it at least concludes that this type of installation is plenty strong for typical home use floating shelves.
I have been surprised by how solid and versatile this type of installation can really be. I had the misconception that floating shelves were more of a gimmick and not particularly useful in normal use settings, but after working with my own design, I can see how these things can be incredibly strong with a little forethought and planning.
One way to make up this glue joint is to use a festool domino cutter which is by far the fastest way to go. But unless you're in the construction business you're likely not going to have one of these. An equally effective way is to use a dowel. In this case I'm using a 5/8" diameter dowel and drilling through the wall support and the shelf support pieces at the same time by clamping both of them in position. Then the goal is to drill in a straight line. And that part is not necessarily that important as long as the pieces stayed clamped down well while you're drilling.
Once your glue joints have set up, they are ready to install. In this case these are plaster walls so I used toggle bolt style fasteners to secure them to the wall. One of the benefits of installing the floating shelves in corners is that the support structure is significantly stronger just because it's mounted in the corner. However it also creates a challenge because corners are typically never perfectly square. So to get an accurate shape for these corner shelves, I build a template. This method can be used for not only this application but for building countertops or basically any situation where it is difficult to get an accurate shape because simply taking measurements with a tape don't pick up on subtle variations in angles that may be there.
These are strips of 1/8 inch Masonite that are cut to lengths that are needed to create the shape of the shelves. Then with a hot glue gun they are stuck in place. For the upper shelf, the template was really close to being what I needed. However the angle on the corner was just a little tight on the front. So rather than building another template, I just shaved off a little of the front edge and that worked out fine.
The structure of my shelves is pieces of quarter inch plywood that are wrapped with a 2 inch hardwood trim all the way around. In this case I'm using three-quarter inch alder and quarter inch alder plywood. I cut a quarter-inch deep by 3/8 inch wide joint in my hardwood edge that allows the plywood to be glued and nailed in place and then flushes out with the trim. I made my template so that it would be the size of the plywood pieces I needed to cut.
I appreciate how you did a quality test on your work. Speaks highly of your work.
Thanks, SuchaCaligrrl! I appreciate you watching and your kind comment!
As a hobby woodworker, some of the other floating shelves videos just made me cringe. This one however is very good, high level of skills involved, and addresses the concern I had relating to the less-than-ideal joints. High level of workmanship too. Thanks!
Thanks, Alfred! I appreciate you watching my videos and taking the time to comment! I enjoy doing the work and comments like yours help make it worthwhile.
You are such a good teacher and vlogger! Not ONE wasted word or redundant information, well edited, and an a attractive voice My husband and I found this to be THE best method for holding shoes and purses in my custom closet. If we were carrying more load we might have tried your threaded rod method.
Thanks for your kind comments, Eileen! It sounds like you and your husband have done a lot of thoughtful research on how you wanted to build your shelving! I’m glad my ideas and videos made the cut with you guys! Thanks for watching!
You’ve given me a way to materialize a design concept I’ve had for my own home office of a floating shelf running contiguously from one wall to the other through corner. Need it to be functional-now I know how. Also, now I know how to deal with the issue of non-square corners throughout my house. Finally, your shelf construction shows me how, with a couple of modifications, I can make my own hollow-core doors of any thickness I want. Learned more in this short video than I have in countless hours of other UA-cam videos and reading. Really appreciate you explaining your thought process as you go along. Great lesson! Can’t wait to watch your other videos!
I know it's going to be a good day when it starts with reading a comment like yours! Thanks so much, Nancy! Your thought about modifying the shelf design to build hollow core doors is also genius! I have an application for that right now and your idea never crossed my mind... and exactly why don't you have your own UA-cam channel??? A modification for my shelf support brackets in the future particularly for corner floating shelves will be to add a front edge piece to the shelf support brackets. That gives some rigidity options to the inside corner where the shelf miters come together. I had a little trouble with that on my shelves in the video. Just a suggestion for something you may want to explore. Good luck... it sounds like you have a lot of projects in the works. Don't hesitate to ask if you run into something you need another opinion on. Thanks again for your comments and encouragement!
Its easy to tell a true craftsman by the festool they use. Great videos i enjoy them
Great video, Sr. thanks for sharing great knowledge and humility when you mentioned that this was nothing new around here in You Tube, but that you would show your own way to do it. Great advice, I’m my 60 and still looking to learn. My mom thought us to be always open to learn. God bless you and your family and business.
I always appreciate comments like yours, Ricardo. You have a great approach and outlook on life! My Mom was a great creative person who kind of modeled artistic habits and abilities for me that I absorbed from her while growing up. Yep, always a good idea to keep learning and remembering the lessons passed on from our folks at our ages! Blessings to you and your family as well, my friend!
Great design. Looks very sturdy with the dowel design.
As an alternative "skin" I used 1/4" Lauan project panels. The same panels used on interior hollow core doors. Very easy to work with, lightweight, paintable and stainable.
Thanks for your suggestion on the Lauan, Heavy! Yes I have used it some and it would work fine in this application as well. I appreciate you watching!
I commend you Sir. You are what make America great means, not political but professional ! Absolutely perfect.
Thanks L.L! You may be overstating just a bit, but I definitely get where you are coming from. I, too, enjoy seeing people create things out of raw materials that have some value. I've been fortunate to have learned things from some great and talented people over the years. I appreciate your comment and sentiment as well as you watching my videos!
Knowledgeable, competent and very well produced video displaying your expertise!!! 👍
Hey, Robert, thanks so much for your kind comments! Don't think I have ever seen so many compliments packed in so few words. I appreciate it very much!
Yes I must agree your definitely a craftsman! Something that is lacking in the trades these days. Even the subtle tips on how to fit a dowel joint well done.
This is the best way I’ve seen floating shelves done. Bravo! Learned a lot from watching this video.
Great, Derek! Thanks for checking it out and for your kind comments.
We added 3"x3" angle brackets to the outriggers. We position the brackets so we could screw thru them into a stud. Its about as good as your going to get using wood. Solid backing thru out with welded steel supports would be the best. Thanks for posting a well made video. I wish I had UA-cam 50 years ago.
Yep, Tim, no doubt we would have benefited from having UA-cam around back in the '70s! Good idea on your angle brackets! I'm going to try one more approach on floating shelves from a suggestion of a viewer that you might find interesting, too. Threading a couple of inches of 5/8" all thread into the studs and bringing them out the width of the shelf. Then slipping a shelf design over that. I'm going to try to get that out in the next month, so we'll see how it works! Thanks for watching and I appreciate your comment!
@@RustyDobbs , That's a great idea with the all thread. Thanks
Do you have any pictures or a video of the 3"x3" angle brackets with the outriggers that you mention? I have plenty of angle iron laying around but would like to see exactly how you are fabricating it.
This is completely brilliant. I'm definitely stealing this concept for some corner floating shelves my wife wants in the living room. Thanks!
Steal away, Ryan! Hope it works out well for you and your wife’s shelves! Thanks for watching!
I am trying to make my own custom made floating shelves for my two cats. Can't say I will need something this heavy duty, but watching how you decided where to put the shelves and how to place them gave my some great ideas to go off of.
Thank you.
Thanks for your comment, Alexis! Glad to hear you found something helpful.
This is next level stuff 🤯 I don’t have most of the tools here, like routers and wood dowel stuff. But I’m still blown away at this video. Great job!
Thanks for your kind comments, Justin! Hope you have enough tools to experiment with woodworking on some projects. Start with what you have and build from there. My first purchase was a Black and Decker jigsaw (cheap!) to build a tiny bookshelf that hung on the wall of our 8x40 foot trailer about 46 years ago! I made the cuts off the metal step of the trailer. Well, we all have to start somewhere! 🙂
Thank you for posting this video. I love the caveat about the toggle bolts in the plaster walls...exactly the scenario I'll be coming across.
Thanks for watching and for your comment, Marco! Glad you found some helpful information for your situation!
Absolutely excellent video👍🏼 my Wife’s wanting floating shelves and your video is the best .
Hey, thanks for the encouragement! Good luck and I hope you make your wife happy!
Thank you for sharing, great video 😊
Very smart, I was looking for good ideas and you didn't dissapoint. Thanks
Thanks, Wade! I appreciate you watching!
I love this video but at almost every 10 or 15 seconds I expect you to start selling me propane and propane accessories.
yep
Dang-it Dale!
Thank you. I was going crazy trying to place the voice.
When I finally start making the shelves my wife has been after me for about a year to make, they’ll be known as the “Dang it Bobby” shelves.
Rusty just watched a couple of your videos on floating shelves. I like the shelves AND the way you produced your videos. Very easy watch, and easy to follow. Very well done. Thanks for the quality content!
Thanks so much, Daniel, for watching and taking the time to comment! I appreciate the encouragement!
I’m impressed, think I’ll use your excellent design and build a floating shelf for my tv. Thanks.
Thanks, Bill! I appreciate you watching and for the comment! I have become a big fan of floating shelves when I once thought they were something of a gimmick without much useful purpose. I have done a few videos on strength testing of floating shelf designs since this video which has only shown me they can really be quite strong. I will have one more video coming out in the next few days that uses 5/8" all thread rods for the shelf supports which will probably be my go to method going forward. Pretty simple and very strong! Should be up on my channel by Sunday.
I ABSOLUTELY love your voice!
Thanks for the great video of your design. Nice job !
Thanks Nogle! I appreciate you watching and your comments!
Thank you from a grateful homeowner!!
Thanks, Craig! I appreciate you watching!
- B R A V O ! ! ! Great work, Rusty. This is a VERY GOOD leaning project, particularly the mitered corner. Luv, luv, luv it. Planning to do a set of 3 floating shelves to fill a wall. Thanx 4 sharing.
Thanks for watching, Lady K! Yeah, this style really makes nice looking floating shelves. Good luck with your plans!
Well done Rusty! This is a terrific idea! Thanks for sharing.
Hey, thanks John! I sure appreciate you watching!
Good on ya mate. That helped a lot. Keep up the good work because people like me need it. cheers
Hey, thanks for watching, Ronei! I sure appreciate it!
Great video with just the right amount of explanation; thanks
Thanks for watching, Mike, and I appreciate your comment!
Really like your masonite template idea. 1867 house has absolutely no square anything anymore. Great idea!
Wow, jakibros! I had a fellow comment a while back that lived in a house built in the 1920s. He said he had horsehair plaster walls which I had never heard of. An 1867 home is very cool! Is it considered or designated an historic site? Yes, the masonite template works very well and I'm sure you can put it to good use. Thanks for the comment!
Great. I am planning to build some boards like this. Some of the other youtubers really have a strange style in building shelves.
The only thing i will need is a circular saw which i can mount on my kitchen table.
Thank you for your inspiration.
Thanks for watching Scheren and thanks for the comment. I'm afraid my wife would not let me get away with mounting a saw to the kitchen table! Good luck with your shelves!
I would love to see more videos on this
Excellent work
Thanks so much, Sanjay! I appreciate you watching!
Very professional and quality work, Thanks for your thoughts.
Thanks for you comment, Mark, and I appreciate you watching!
Thank you for your work in this video. It really helps me in building my own
Great Rodney! Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Thanks, Rusty! This is exactly what I needed to watch to help me figure out a couple of issues with my next project!
Great, Michael! I'm glad you found the video helpful! I appreciate you watching and thanks for the comment!
Love the Domino/Support Dowel ideals
Thanks for this. Exactly what I was looking for and glad to see you’ve also have done strength tests. I’m going to be making shelves to hold up semi exotic potted plants. Safety concerns aside, them falling could be quite painful to the wallet, and my back from sleeping on the couch.
I get where you are coming from exactly, Ken! My most demanding and difficult customer is the one I’m married to! You might check my video “Strong Floating Shelves - The Strongest Option” for a different method, if you haven’t seen it already. Thanks for watching and good luck on all fronts! 👍
Nice video, the dowels etc seem like way more work than is really required though. I think glue and 75mm screws would do the trick.
Thanks for the comment, vzgsvr. I think you are right that the screws and glue would be just fine. I was curious about the dowels and then really surprised at how well they performed, though. After I got the hang of drilling the holes, even that wasn't very time consuming. If I built a good jig for holding the pieces together while drilling, it would be really quick.
I began using dowels some time back and found them to be extremely strong when used and installed right. Sometimes the real challenge is to either source dowels from a reputable supplier or make your own. Box store dowels sometimes work out ok, but they're usually hit or miss like everything else they sell. I never ever use store "fluted" dowels. They're well beyond utterly useless.
And by the way, I just cannot type dowel enough times for spell check to remember to not make it into towel..I guess I'm forever cast into having to correct spell check.
Great info and helpful in a project I'm doing!
Thanks for watching, Nathan, and I'm glad the video was helpful! Good luck with your project!
Great video and awesome way to make a floating shelf with a 45 degree angle corner. I also think that adding Screws on the back along with the dowel will make it even stronger as long as you predrill the holes to avoid splitting the wood. I liked and Subscribed. Keep up the good work!!!
Thanks for watching and for your comments, Keywest! Sounds like you have some experience doing things like this and your idea about always pre-drilling holes is a great one. Thanks for your subscription and best of luck to you on all your upcoming projects!
Thanks. The dowels are a great idea.
Thanks for watching, Andrew! Yeah, they are strong and not much to installing them either.
This video really helped me out! Great craftsmanship
I appreciate the comment, DUNAiden! I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Incredible job Sir, 👍🏾👊🏾🇳🇬✌🏾
Hey, ayo30s, thanks for the encouragement!
What a amazing set of shelves can't wait until you prepare some for my basement
Thanks, Chris, and sounds good! All it takes to get me started is a healthy down payment!
Good video, I use a similar method for floating shelves using the 1x2 for supports.However I used 2 different methods to attach them with using a kreg jig on each leg support using 1 1/2 Screws and also screwing in a 3" x 1/4 screw into the back support and through each leg and it's proving to be very strong. No glue used. I don't use glue cause if I need to move the support over in the case of it blocking access to stud I can easily move it over if need be. Or the other method I've used which is extremely strong is using a 3/8 x 8" bolt screwed into back support into leg and you'll never break this apart by hand.
Yep, DRV, there are lots of ways to go about getting strong floating shelves built. It has been surprising to me to see how strong the pocket hole joints actually are. I have a Porter Cable production pocket hole cutter in the shop that I bought years ago when I was building a lot of cabinets and it lets you make such great boxes so quickly. I think the strength comes from being able to get such tight joints. Thanks for your comments and for watching!
this isn't how I do them but Id say this is well done and you are a very good craftsman. I install steel l brackets directly to the studs ,cut out the drywall and install the brackets then drywall patch back over them. that leaves me with just steel studs sticking out of the wall, I then slide my hollow type shelves on to the steel studs. downside of it is you have drywall or plaster repair and paint touchup.but it is the ultimate in strength
Yep, what you do is what I suggest to people who plan to put heavier items on floating shelves and want to be sure they will hold up. I have thought about welding up some 1/4" steel plate into 90 degree brackets like you recommend, but just haven't gotten to it. Someone suggested to me the idea of all thread rods spun into the studs recently. I decided to try it and am working on the video right now. Used 5/8" all thread and the results are pretty impressive. Video should be out in the next few days. Thanks for your comment and for passing on your experiences. I appreciate you watching as well!
Solid work and idea. Hats off sir.
Thanks so much for the comment and encouragement, ethaniel!
This was just what I was looking for. Thank you for making this video and posting for everyone!
Your welcome, Nathan! Glad it was helpful and I certainly learned a lot working on it myself. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
A Job well done!
Thanks, C! I appreciate you watching!
Beautiful
Thanks, Alba
since the shelf brackets are in cantilever, I would put the fasteners as high on the brackets as possible, because there is tension on the top, and compression on the bottom. The more distance below the fastener you have, the less leverage the shelf has on the fastener. That will increase the weight carrying capacity, and reducing sagging, if heavily loaded. Especially, if it's used as a book shelf.
Rusty , As a fellow Lefty ,YOU ROCK
Hey, thanks Fran! We've got to stick together! Thanks for watching!
I liked the video, but i just used 4" #10 screws to assemble the frame and attached the shelves with 4.5" lag bolts into studs. I did my entire pantry that way. No matter what my wife puts on the shelves and how heavy it is, the shelves dont sag, or shidt at all. Great video though
Thanks for the comment, Maxim! Yeah, no doubt there are lots of ways to get the job done. Glad your method worked out well.
Great tutorial. 👍👍
Thanks Bob! I appreciate you watching!
My home has almost entirely brick walls - even internally - so this type of shelf could be very strong indeed built this way or in a way closely related to this. Dowelled dovetails would be even stronger. I would not have thought of this though without seeing your method, so thank you.
Your observation about your brick walls is very true! I like the "dowelled dovetails" concept, too. Will have to mull that over a bit. Thanks for your comment!
Rusty DobbsWell your simple butted-joints would be a very weak kind of joint without those dowels, and a dovetail or a half-lap is a much stronger method of joining pieces at right angles. I build the bulk of my structures with pine and adding dowels made from a much stronger wood potentially adds a lot of strength. You can't do it on very thick structures because the differing expansion and contraction of different kinds of wood can pull your work apart over time, but if your beams are under 2.5 inches or so then you can add a one inch or one and a half inch oak dowel into a pine joint without causing trouble. I tend to build things massively over-strength, so most of the shelves in my home will take my body-weight. One set I tested by standing on them and bouncing on my toes - they didn't even creak. This approach often means I do a lot of extra work and use a lot of extra material, but my shelves don't break or sag.
Thanks again for the inspiration, I may try some of these within the next two or three months.
Interesting observations about different thicknesses of beams, dowels and expansion/contraction issues. Sounds like you have done a lot more practical experimentation with these concepts with thicker materials than I have. Let me know what you are doing and discovering down the road. I enjoy your posts!
Hey FireAngel! I finally got around to testing your dowelled dovetail idea... at least my rendition of it. Like you said, it is very strong. Check it out when you get a chance. ua-cam.com/video/qj5n4lEdBTA/v-deo.html
I used 2x4 stock, and ripped it down to 1.75x3 and I used countersunk deck screws 2 per stringer. it currently holds upwards of 100lbs of books. the shlef is made with 1/4" birch faced ply and 3/4" maple for the front and side faces. I plan to make a few more. the box/cover is simply held together with a few 90 angle brackets and screws at the front corners, as well as gorilla glue original , the top and bottom are glued onto the maple front/ side with same. I finnished mine with helmsman for a nice glossy shine without the cost of a clear epoxy.
Sounds like that worked out well for you, killahjeep! Thanks for sharing your process.
How do you rip 2x4 stock down to 1.75" when it's 1.5" to begin with?
Love it Sr!
Thanks so much, Sophia! I appreciate you watching!
Highly skilled technique 👍. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the great video - its given me some good ideas on how to tackle an upcoming project which includes good floating shelves
Glad you enjoyed it Stephen! Thanks for your comment and good luck on your project!
Beautiful! 💗
Thanks again, SimpLee Beth!
good video my brother you would be a excellent instructor...know doubt about it.
Thanks doberman! I appreciate you watching!
love it
Nice video. Thanks for looking into the question of strength.
Thanks, Kevin! I think the old saying that necessity is the mother of invention applies here. I needed to know if these shelves can hold a decent amount of weight, so glad to know that they can. Appreciate the comment!
They make a anchor with threads that screw right into wood (no drilling needed) and the all thread threads right into the anchor that would sit pretty much flush with the drywall. I'll used these overhead on floor joists and they are strong
Yeah, I have seen them as well, Matt, but have never had the occasion to use them. I don’t tend to remember products like that if I haven’t used them on some sort of regular basis. Thanks for the suggestion and I appreciate you watching!
Great job! I like this idea for floating shelves.
Thanks Dennis! Appreciate the comment.
Wonderful work...
Thanks, Tom! I appreciate your comment and you watching!
This is a fantastic video! You answered a bunch of questions that I have had.
Thanks for the encouragement, Chris! Yeah, I learned a lot doing the project myself. Surprising thing to me is how much weight the shelves can hold. Never would have thought that!
Well instructed and easy to follow just one question regarding securing the project onto the wall I'm just not sure of what to use when encountering just the bare wall sheet without brace behind it
Thanks, don quixote! Yeah, if there are no studs available to screw to, you are limited to the strength of the sheetrock over the span of the shelf, so you know you are not going to put anything with much weight on the shelf. Honestly, the old style toggle bolts that have been around forever are as good a fastener as any for situations like yours. Installing one about every 12" is probably what I would do.
great design and the video is very well put together also!
Thanks, Tony! I appreciate the comment.
I had a desire to do a floating granite shelf. The idea is to have a 1/4 inch steel plate bent at 90° with 12 inches on each flange. I would cut the 1/2 inch drywall out so the steel plate can bolts to the bare stud. Then covering that part of the plate with 1/4 inch drywall. After finishing the tap and mud, all you will have is a 1/4 inch steel plate sticking out of the wall to put the granite on. Not sure if small corbels are needed. I never had the chance to experiment with my idea. Love to see a video of you doing that.
Hey Robert! Interesting idea. Let me think on that a little. I actually have the granite to do it with. I would probably weld the 1/4" steel at the corner out of convenience. If you were to do the shelf with solid surface material, you could conceivable bury the steel in both the wall and the shelf. That would be a great look! Thanks for the suggestion. I'll put it on the list.
Very easy to watch! Great video!
Thanks, guys!
Excellent video. My daughter has been asking me to build her some shelves for her room which I was a bit hesitant too but now after watching this video you’ve given me the courage too. I have one question, what method did you use to cut the 45° angle on the plywood??
Thanks, Herby, and good luck with your project! Take it a step at a time and you should be fine. The more you do this kind of thing, the easier it gets! On cutting the 45, I think I remember freehanding it on the table saw and thinking afterwards that was kind of dumb... pretty dangerous so I would not recommend it. A jigsaw works fine. If you put masking take over the line you are cutting that can help minimize tear out of the wood grain of the plywood. You can also flip the plywood over and make the cuts with the good side down and that should give you a cleaner line on your finished cut. Experiment a little and you'll come up with something that works best for your setup.
Excellent advice. Thank you so much for the tips. Please stay safe and look forward to all your future videos.
Good video, well explained and nice result! Thanks for sharing your know how!
Thanks Gilbert! I always enjoy learning and passing on info I pick up. UA-cam provides a great way to do that. Thanks for your comment and encouragement!
Great video. Might just do this in my studio!
Thanks Marco! This video was my first time to do floating shelves and I had always thought of them as being a bit of a gimmick and not particularly useful. Boy, was I wrong! I have another video with this same title and The Strongest Option tagged after in which I use all thread rods spun into the studs as the supports. That approach takes shelf strength out of the question as far as something to be concerned about. I love them now... very useful.
Hi Rusty, do you have tips (or can you do a video) for installing floating shelves in masonry or concrete walls? I live in a house built from cut stone bricks and not sure what the safest way to install these would be... what screws to use, how deep they need to go to be safe... etc etc etc. Thanks!
Hi, Mhairi! Yeah, dealing with masonry and concrete walls is a different process for installing floating shelves, but very straightforward. I try to drill holes for the rods as close the size of the diameter of the rods as I can but you need to be able to slide the rods in freely to the desired depth. Then I load up the threads with an epoxy type or other construction adhesive and add it to the holes as well. Then push and/or tap your rods in to the desired depth (you should get some epoxy squeeze out from your holes) and figure out a way to support the rods at a level position and height until the epoxy dries. You should be good to go with installing the shelves after that!
@@RustyDobbs thanks Rusty!
So helpful
Excellent video! informative and very helpful. Thank You
Thanks, Frank! I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching!
This is super helpful, as I've been looking for floating shelves of this nature with a more finished look. If you were to do these wall to wall in a bigger space, like 12ft would you do this same thing? Would get some extra support from wall on either side of the 12ft.
Yes, Ted, this type of approach will work on any length of shelving and you are right that, in the corners, you are picking up extra support from the side walls. I have done other videos where I use all thread rods as the shelf supports which also works great. One is called Strong Floating Shelves - The Strongest Option. Thanks for watching!
@@RustyDobbs thanks for responding! a follow up question. with 12 ft of shelving would you split the boxes in two? I'm worried about my miter capacity of 6ft with my equipment. Was thinking of doing the shelves in two pieces
People take something so simple and turn it into rocket science just to say " I have the best method
pretty nifty craftsmanship....a lot of work when I can just screw a steel strip to the wall with welded on bars that slide into the drilled holes of any shelf...
Now, Robert, are you doing the welding of the bars on the steel strip or are you buying them from Rockler??? No doubt steel is a good way to go, but you have to admit it is kind of interesting to explore the limits of wood. Thanks for the comment!
Would screwing the support pieces together be as strong as the mortise and tenon? If we countersink the screws, they won't stick out and interfere with the shelf going over them.
That approach can certainly work, Susan. I would just be sure to drill pilot holes for your screws use wood glue to attach your pieces together.
Very good video and nice information
Thanks for the encouragement!
Awesome
Thanks, Herman!
@@RustyDobbs 😊
Great idea! However, I'm putting a texture on my walls and ask if there's any trick used to fill those gaps between the wall texture and back face of shelf?
I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question right but let me take a run at it. Take masking tape and mask off the shelf in preparation for caulking the gap and to keep the caulk off the shelf. Then use an a paintable trim and molding caulk to run a bead of caulk (acrylic latex) in the joint and smooth it with your finger. Here is a link to a video I did on caulking tile joints. ua-cam.com/video/OWIBUPbRPIM/v-deo.html Though it is a tile video, the principles for caulking are the same for what you are doing. Instead of using a sponge for wiping your finger after smoothing the caulk, I would use damp paper towels and take the water, sponge and bucket out of the equation. Once the caulk is dry, you can touch it up with paint if needed. Then, strip off the masking tape and you should have a nice filled joint between your wall and shelf. Let me know if I completely missed the issue you are asking about. Thanks for the comment! Good luck!
Rusty Dobbs You understood correctly. Thank you!
Your a good trades man👍
Thanks, maz man! I appreciate your comment!
Great explanation
Thanks KRSPY! I appreciate you watching and the comment!
Great install
Thanks, Leketha! I appreciate the comment!
Nice work
Excellent video; I'm trying to replicate what you did here in this video. Can anyone chime in? How do I close those miters (just a brad nail through the side and front panel; and glue?)
Yes, Fred, I think I follow what you’re asking. I did not rewatch the video, but I’m confident I used 3/4” x 2” trim pieces mitered at the corners with 1/4” rabbet joints on the top and bottom for the plywood panels to be secured in. I would have glued the 45's and tacked them with my brad nailer. Hope that helps!
Great information. Thanks!
Thanks, Daniel! I appreciate you watching!
I want to make a floating shelf to display my miniature house. The shelf depth needs to be 15-16” to hold the house. Is this depth doable for a floating shelf? The house weighs 8 lbs.
Yes, Debbie, it could be made to work with a little experimentation particularly with your miniature house only weighing about 8 pounds. Obviously, the wider the shelf, the more you get that cantilever effect where the shelf tends to be more like a springboard on the end. Check out my video called Strong Floating Shelves - The Strongest Option for another idea. Good luck and I hope you find a solution that works for you!
How far apart did you make the supports and how thick did your shelves end up being? Love the video
Thanks for watching, E! I think the supports were about 13-14 inches apart and the overall thickness of the shelves was 2 inches. You may want to check out another video I did later called Strong Floating Shelves, The Strongest Option that shows using all thread rods to install floating shelves. Thanks for the comment, too.
How do you drill 5/8" long holes in the shelves to slip the metal dowels in? Did you use a drill press to drill the holes?
Yes, I cut about 2 inch wide strips of 2x8 material and drilled the holes on the drill press. Only had to do a little tweaking to get it over the metal rods!
Love this video!
Thanks, david! I appreciate you watching!
I'm looking at something like this for a garage, overhead shelf application. I assume you could lengthen these as much as you wanted, since the additional length would be supported by more studs and might even actually give it more strength overall. What would you expect these shelves to be able to hold weight wise? Could you deepen (distance they come out from the wall) them, or would that weaken them significantly since you'd be separating your load and anchor points? How could you "beef them up" if needed? I'm pretty new to this kind of thing and any help or feedback from anyone would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, Samuel, I think you are on the right track with your assumptions. I went further with strength testing my approach in a couple of videos I'll link here for you. Check them out and then see how the info might apply to your installation. Good luck with your project and thanks for your comment and questions! ua-cam.com/video/qj5n4lEdBTA/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/i3POFEYtHfw/v-deo.html
First of all, thank you for responding so quickly! Truth be told the rest of the answers, although a curiosity, don't really matter much as I foresee it being plenty strong for my needs. However, I would really like to deepen these shelves to close to two feet while maintaining a strength of about 50 lbs/stud if possible. I saw in your video (ua-cam.com/video/qj5n4lEdBTA/v-deo.html) that you made a set 15 inches deep. Do you think it could be extended any further? I'm looking at doing a double shelf along part of the back and side wall. So perhaps doing 20-24 inches for the lower one and only 10-15 for the upper would be more feasible.
Yeah, that was sort of the point of having you watch the other videos. For example, on the width issue my sense of going wider with the shelves was that it is a big deal the wider you go. Its like the adjustment wheel on a diving board, the more you crank the roller from the end of the board, the bouncier it gets. That's something you'll just need to experiment with. One option you may want to consider for the 20-24 inch width would be to have a welder make up some "L" brackets out of maybe 3/16" or 1/4" plate steel that you can bolt the short end of the L to the studs. You would probably get the strength you are looking for and also take out a lot of the flex you would get with a wood structure only.
Thank you sir, you've been a lot of help. I had intended to keep everything confined within the shelf, but adding L brackets might be better off in the long run.
Do you have a step by step video on how you make these shelves or plans available for sale?
Sorry about that, Sauce! I haven't gone down that path although it would not be a difficult thing to do. I'm thinking about picking up my pace in 2023 and specific tutorials and downloads of plans are on my list. Thanks for your question and for watching!
@@RustyDobbs Thank you for replying Rusty!
I’m trying to build my first ones so wish me lucky lol. Are you/he using a pin nailer? Or would the pins be to weak for the shelf?
Good luck, Brazy! Yes, I used a pin nailer when building the shelf sleeves. You just don't want to rely on pins on any structural joints. The structural elements on this type of installation are the brackets.
Great stuff!! Just wondering-could you use pocket hole instead of dowels? Pocket Hole for joining your fram vs the tenons? Thanks, Ken
Sure, Ken, with a healthy dose of wood glue on that joint. My guess is that would perform pretty well for most lightweight uses around the house. Thanks for watching!
THanks for the video.
Instead of mortise and renon for The piece that holds the shelf .....why not just screw the pieces together with 3 inch lag bolts seems like that would hurt just as good as a mortise and tenon if not better....or am i incorrect. Thank you
Your idea will work as well, mr. koolio. I would just make sure to predrill holes for the lags so the wood doesn't split when installing them.
Hi, great video. Are the 2 inch hardwood trim around 3/4 inch thickness? Also your supporting lumber those sizes are exact meaning you aren't using common measurements, is that correct? Thanks in advance.
Thanks Jay! Yes, the hardwood trim is approximately 3/4” thick. I used 2x4 pine pieces cut to size for the support pieces so their nominal thickness would be approximately 1 3/8” instead of exactly 1 1/2” thick. You can make all your pieces any sizes that work for you from a design standpoint. Obviously you just want your support frame to be able to slip inside the shelf sleeve with enough room for movement to allow everything to assemble easily. Hope that helps!
Thanks that is helpful. Well explained.
Great! I'm glad you enjoyed it and appreciate the comment.