A quick FYI - you can adjust the headlights with a 4mm socket without removing anything - those bolts that stick out where you installed the clips will accept the socket from behind the lens assembly. The lower one adjusts the up and down, the upper one closest to the grill adjusts the left/right. Wish I would have watched your video before I installed my headlights - I just bought and installed the same headlights you replaced in this video.
Ya. I’m super backed up on the video editing. I have stuff I did months ago that I haven’t edited or posted. But I’m gonna try at least one Ranger video per month moving forward.
how to actually do it; level ground, pull up to a wall. mark the physical location of the capsule center with tape on the wall, back up twenty feet and adjust the beams to hit the tape marks. adjust the beams to the median light cast of the high beam and low beam. something to note is you will usually not get perfectly symmetrical results because the capsules are designed to prevent blinding oncoming drivers. this method gets your lights really really close but you gotta be on level ground , mark true center, and back up straight.. you can fine tune if desired.
3:52 This might not be an issue in cooler climates, but I'm worried about the heatsink on my LED being completely enclosed by the lock ring. I think I'm going to shorten mine, or buy low-profile lock rings that leave the LED heatsink exposed.
Performance wise, it wasn’t a huge difference. The euro style ones were already rusting though and I didn’t like that. I also don’t have the weird shadows with the OEM style that the euro ones had. I like the OEM better
I originally had Beamtech in both my Ranger and in my Xterra. Same Size. But I am trying out the Auxito bulb in my Xterra right now. I've done video reviews on them. Here are links to both. BEAMTECH 9007 10000 Lumens LED Bulb amzn.to/2V817nT AUXITO 9007 12000 Lumens LED Bulb Use "strongholdgarage" coupon code to get 10% off! auxito.com/collections/9007-hb5-led-high-low-beam-forward-lighting-12000lm-per-set-6500k-xenon-white-wireless-high-low-beam/products/9007-hb5-led-high-low-beam-forward-lighting?rq=yr_2008~mk_Nissan~md_Xterra~tm_Standard%20Trims~ml_High%20Beam%20and%20Low%20Beam
The AUXITO led's are fantastic replacements. I have some in my silverado and now in my camry. Thanks for the helpful video, our only issue with getting the grill off is we have a brush guard in the way =/ But the 4mm socket sounds like the way to go
I bought those same headlight assemblies and the beam pattern was blotchy from the start and less than two years later the lens cover is coming apart from the housing. Also the reflective coating is peeling off.
The beam should point in 100 m to the ground in the car's center. in other words, your lights are too far down and still crossed eye. To correct move to a wall, mark the bottom and the outside of both headlights, back up 33 feet (10 meters), and aim your headlights to be 3 inches below the level of your headlight center. and 1 to the middle. this will focus both low beams to have no gap in the middle and a wide field of view (and not flashing other drivers) and the high beam to have a hot spot in the center.
Maybe in the future. I’m intentionally keeping everything on this build as budget friendly as possible. Found a good write up for the retrofit tho. www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-93-97-true-projector-retrofit.141424/
Ey..I dunno why you took the clips back out, with the grille off there shoulda been a Phillips head screw to adjust the side to side on the headlight beam...
Had a 94 Ranger that color 4x4 extended cab with a 4.0l 5spd. I miss that truck man!!! That color is called Caymen Green btw.
A quick FYI - you can adjust the headlights with a 4mm socket without removing anything - those bolts that stick out where you installed the clips will accept the socket from behind the lens assembly. The lower one adjusts the up and down, the upper one closest to the grill adjusts the left/right.
Wish I would have watched your video before I installed my headlights - I just bought and installed the same headlights you replaced in this video.
Thanks for the tip on the up and down part. I'll give that a try.
I have a 96 4L 4x4. All of these videos are so much help. Much appreciated!! 🙏
Glad you find them helpful!!
@@rayregnogarage if only the border would open up! Your probably just a hop, skip and jump away from British Columbia eh?? 🇨🇦
Yup. not too far.
Omg you’re back to your 95 build!!
Ya. I’m super backed up on the video editing. I have stuff I did months ago that I haven’t edited or posted. But I’m gonna try at least one Ranger video per month moving forward.
BRO I just replaced my lenses last week lol. AM I THE ONLY PERSON WHO HATES THOSE RETAINING CLIPS OMG! lol
Lol. I don't mind them. I think they're fun.
how to actually do it; level ground, pull up to a wall. mark the physical location of the capsule center with tape on the wall, back up twenty feet and adjust the beams to hit the tape marks. adjust the beams to the median light cast of the high beam and low beam. something to note is you will usually not get perfectly symmetrical results because the capsules are designed to prevent blinding oncoming drivers. this method gets your lights really really close but you gotta be on level ground , mark true center, and back up straight.. you can fine tune if desired.
10:20 Is the blotchy beam pattern a result of the stock headlight? You said your Xterra is using the same LEDs without the blotchiness?
Yes i think it’s the inside structure of the factory headlight. There’s pieces in there that cast shadows.
@@rayregnogarage Thanks! I think I have similar LEDs (Sea Light), so I'll see how they work out in the stock 1999 Ranger headlight.
Got an 03 ranger XLT. Is it worth getting LED bulbs with OEM housing? I was thinking of doing sea light or Sylvania.
3:52 This might not be an issue in cooler climates, but I'm worried about the heatsink on my LED being completely enclosed by the lock ring. I think I'm going to shorten mine, or buy low-profile lock rings that leave the LED heatsink exposed.
Ya, I like the exposed heat sink better. Not sure on the longevity of the lights, I don’t drive at night very much with this truck.
I have a 98 and can’t figure out how to get those screws adjusted on the aftermarket lens I bought
Hey. Are these lense better then the other ones, in your other video? I’m looking to get new ones and more brighter lights
Performance wise, it wasn’t a huge difference. The euro style ones were already rusting though and I didn’t like that. I also don’t have the weird shadows with the OEM style that the euro ones had. I like the OEM better
Thanks am probably going to buy my dads ranger same one as yours Manuel 4x4 and same color
nice!
LED bulbs suck in older headlights like the rangers. Unfortunate, but nothing can be done with them unless custom lights are made.
Ya. the reflectors don’t do well with LEDs. I’m actually thinking about going back to one of those super bright halogens.
!!! Nice video. What LED bulbs are you using?
I originally had Beamtech in both my Ranger and in my Xterra. Same Size. But I am trying out the Auxito bulb in my Xterra right now. I've done video reviews on them.
Here are links to both.
BEAMTECH 9007 10000 Lumens LED Bulb
amzn.to/2V817nT
AUXITO 9007 12000 Lumens LED Bulb
Use "strongholdgarage" coupon code to get 10% off!
auxito.com/collections/9007-hb5-led-high-low-beam-forward-lighting-12000lm-per-set-6500k-xenon-white-wireless-high-low-beam/products/9007-hb5-led-high-low-beam-forward-lighting?rq=yr_2008~mk_Nissan~md_Xterra~tm_Standard%20Trims~ml_High%20Beam%20and%20Low%20Beam
The AUXITO led's are fantastic replacements. I have some in my silverado and now in my camry. Thanks for the helpful video, our only issue with getting the grill off is we have a brush guard in the way =/
But the 4mm socket sounds like the way to go
I bought those same headlight assemblies and the beam pattern was blotchy from the start and less than two years later the lens cover is coming apart from the housing. Also the reflective coating is peeling off.
the euro ones? ya they suck
The beam should point in 100 m to the ground in the car's center. in other words, your lights are too far down and still crossed eye. To correct move to a wall, mark the bottom and the outside of both headlights, back up 33 feet (10 meters), and aim your headlights to be 3 inches below the level of your headlight center. and 1 to the middle. this will focus both low beams to have no gap in the middle and a wide field of view (and not flashing other drivers) and the high beam to have a hot spot in the center.
What air intake setup are you running?
it’s a cheap DIY setup from the previous owner. I just replaced the cheap cone filter with a K&N
@@rayregnogarage I see, thanks for the reply!
Anyone know if its possible to open the lens?
pretty sure it’s sealed
Welcome back to so-Cal
With those big deep buckets should have done a projector retrofit
Maybe in the future. I’m intentionally keeping everything on this build as budget friendly as possible. Found a good write up for the retrofit tho. www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-93-97-true-projector-retrofit.141424/
I did my 2011 ranger with a retrofit kit I don’t think I got more than $ 70 in it and the light output is great
@@krustythecarhauler Where did you get it?
I think it was Amazon and I’m using an hid kit with it I do believe they have them for leds to.
I tryd the leds in my Oem buckets the beam was scattered no matter witch way I adjusted them
Ey..I dunno why you took the clips back out, with the grille off there shoulda been a Phillips head screw to adjust the side to side on the headlight beam...
That’s what I ended up doing.
I have the same problem. For LED lamps , Does orientation of lamp
in housing affect beam ?
😂😂😂bro...6 screws with a power tool is about 10 seconds of work...how long did you faf with the headlight and the cornerlight because #lazy? 😂😂
I think he stole my truck