Everyone else is being too nice so I'll go ahead and say it. ANY value that old anvil had, is forever wasted. That was a HACK job and could have been handled so much more different that what was done to it! A new sheet of steel should have been welded to the face after removing all of old one, hardy hole squared up and nice coat of oil applied over all for rust protection. All of that done after soaking in rust remover and wire brushing, all to preserve any and all identifying maker marks! I cringed through the whole thing....
I agree with you. It should have been resurfaced by a grinding machine. that you make it flatter and stronger. Welding just is not they way to to go to restore a anvil.
Should have removed full top layer preheat anvil and replace top layer in my opinion there is still a crack under top that will break eventually. Half a job done in a hurry.
Cast iron actually is a relatively common material for anvils, although more common in london pattern ones. For most of the history of blacksmithing after full sized rather than stake anvils started being favored, anvils were a wrought iron base (usually made of several smaller pieces forge welded together to build up the shape of the anvil) with a higher carbon steel suitable for tools (I don't say tool steel because some modern classification systems don't call simple high carbon steels like 1080 tool steel, but blacksmiths at the time would understand tool steel to mean something like 1080) plate forge welded to the main striking face that is hardened and tempered. On london pattern anvils the plate stands proud of the top of the horn, but with many other patterns like this one the plate usually spans the whole top surface of the anvil. A more recent development is cast iron bases with a steel suitable for tool making welded to the top, but that process has only been around for a couple hundred years and many manufacturers stuck to wrought iron bases, most of the ones that switched primarily made london patterns afaik. 100% tool steel anvils are even more recent, the price of tool steels has come down a lot compared to history to make it feasible to just cast a whole anvil out of tool steel. You can buy 100% cast iron anvil shaped objects, but cast iron is a horrible material for an anvil face, it is way too soft and brittle. It works just fine as a base if you put a hardened steel plate on top though. @@skunkjobb
Молодец, братишка! Получилось супер! Только вот мне кажется, что её нужно было стабилизировать с помощью термообработки, а то участок , где был наварен металл может отколоться в процессе работы на наковальне. Всё-таки нагрузки там будут приличные! Удачи в новых проектах!
I'm all for refacing an anvil that has had a chipped away face. Wire wheeling the sides and bottom .. fine. No need to grind the sides away (effectively removing any makers mark) and you didn't add enough hard facing rod to the top. Double horns like that blend the face into the horns. You left a gap. Additionally you could have cleaned up the hardy hole and made it square again and you could have cleaned up the pritchel hole. You get 5 out of 10 for not doing it right. Started off good. Execution and finish needs work.
Thank you. The intent was great but as a blacksmith myself, several parts of this video made me cringe. There's a huge dip in the face, I have a feeling that there was more sections of that face that were separated, those hardy and pritchel holes need to be shored up badly, and that face is going to mar and gouge like a SOB as soon as you bring a hammer down without proper heat treat
@@slc308 another UA-camr by the name of That Other Finnish Guy has a really good anvil restoration video of a double horn around the same size including heat treat and rebound test.
@@TopHIgnite If you have a well dressed hammer even mild steel holds up fine against mishits. The corners can roll over slightly but you can hammer them back to shape easily. Doubt heattreating a heavy anvil is even going to save you any time in the long run unless you have the proper equipment to do it.
That a work, but if you can, it's a good idea to pre heat a anvil, but yea I'd take it, any time you can get your hands on a anvil grab it no matter what the shape it's in.
Übel, übel! Die ganze schöne, geschmiedete Oberfläche ist jetzt durch den Winkelschleifer zerstört. Ich frage mich, waru jemand, der mit Metall arbeitet, keinen Blick für sowas hat.
Been better off having a few millimeters milled off the top and reskinned with new steel and surface ground. Otherwise that old anvil had a lot of stories to tell before you ground them all off.
A very serviceable job. I'd probably have gone a little bit further - preheating the anvil to 350F or so (with a propane weed burner perhaps) before building up the hardface weld (incl the hardy hole), then lugged it someplace with a machine lathe and re-leveled both the repaired deck and the feet, to bring it to true. Probably would have buffed the sides with boiled linseed oil, instead of paint.
It does look much better but yes mill off the top plate. Weld on a new piece of 1/2”. Heat it white hot & then quench it with oil. The top should ping. Maybe even mill the bottom as well
@@johnkaspar462 When I first started watching anvil restoratuon vids, I had a similar thought, but after seeing various people attempt part or all of that, I realized what a daunting PITA it is. > From whatcI saw, welding on a new plate from just the sides can be problematic, because unless the entire bottom surface is welded to the anvil, it can cause large swaths to dead ring, if there is even minor warpage. A full pen weld is impractical because thatd require raising the deck higher and/or hogging off a lot of material to make room to weld from the centerline out. In lieu of a full size 1k+ hammer and an industrial oven to forgeweld a new fullsize deck, the only practical option for individual craftsmen is to just preheat and buildup a new deck with hardface weld, then mill it flat. > I saw a vid once of a couple of guys who managed to heat a medium sized anvil to yellow hot, then chain hoisted it over a 55gal steel drum of quenching oil, and lowered it in. Huge flaming mess ensued that put most deep-fried turkey fail vids to shame. And to add insult to injury, the quench only accomplished shallow surface hardening (consider the massive internal heat that dissipates SLOWLY outwards), so the resulting ring was actually lower than pre-attempt. 🤯😂
y a eso le llaman restaurar? parece mas bien un trabajo de el chico que barre el patio, eso es salir de un apuro que no va durar nada lamentable video.....
Nice job!!! But.... the flat surface of the anvil final is NOT very flat!!! In my pour oppinion a new metal sheet of TOOL steel should be added in order to have the anvil a real HARD working flat area!! In any case the situation of the anvil is BETTER than before!!! Congratulations!!!!
No tool steel sheet... For this are used hard facings electrodes... That u than grind the face with the horns and corners only, to have it flat... This is destroyed anvil...
@@thiodorchalkias8906 but if you wanted to do it by the way you have just written, u would need to grind bellow the plate to be super flat. But it's stupid idea, becouse the weld would Crack, etc. When u want to weld the face of an anvil, you must pre-heat the anvil, weld few layers with normal rods and then weld with hard facing rods. It will last decades of work
@@fearthereaper298 there is not necessary to preheat the anvil this is for the case that you have to weld aluminium Using only weldind rods its necessary not only griding but hardenig as well!!!
@@ustametal так тогда вопрос, для чего делать инструмент заведомо некачественный? Вот к примеру: зеркало можно вывести с помощью линейки и крупного зачистного камня на 230ю болгарку. Отверстия можно вывести напильниками. Круглым и плоским. А закалить можно нагрев верхнюю часть в течении 2х часов на раскаленных углях, после опустить зеркало в тазик с отработкой. Для этого супер мощного оборудования ненужно. И тогда на ней можно будет даже ковать долгое время...
Sorry but it still looks like it couldn’t be used by a real blacksmith or bladesmith the work table is all over the place the hardy hole is still worn out!!!! I love anvils but this one needs throwing out
Чот какая-то половинчатая работа... Почему всё лицо не срезал да не наварил полностью? Где гарантия того, что под оставшейся плитой нет коррозии? Потом на глаз продрал кругом, накопал ям, в итоге не наковальня, а модель без возможности нормально её эксплуатировать. Там фрезернуть надо было. Хрень, короче, а не восстановление, за что тут лайки - не понятно...
Спасибо за комментарий. Ты себе смотри у тебя есть всё оборудование А у меня только один сварочный аппарат и болгарка я живу в Узбекистане нашем стране даже 380 В не дают мы работаем 220 В
@@ustametal ааа... Тогда извини. По поводу ремонта могу посоветовать сделать простую направляющую из двух уголков, на них рамку с четырьмя подшипниками по углам как колесики, и на рамку поставить болгарку с шлифовальным толстым диском, получится почти плоскошлифовальный. Я так выкручивался, когда станков у меня еще не было.
When an anvil is spalling to that degree it’s too far gone. The only thing to do is recast it. With a casting like that if you are going to try welding the surface, it needs constant heat pre and post bringing the temperature down carefully. This will likely chip or shear off but good luck.
Old steel anvils are a a world of difference from cheap cast iron from Harbor Freight. The body is mild steel / wrought iron with a hard face forge welded on. The equipment to make them no longer exists as the anvils was made using serious steam hammers and a forge furnace big enough to raise the entire anvil body to welding temperatures. Modern equivalents are either too big or too small… Modern good quality cast anvils are basically homogeneous chrome nickel molybdenum tungsten steel… (and an entirely different bitch to weld to).
Take a few dollars and get some wood and build you a workbench, so you can get your work off the ground.. it's a lot easier on your back... Good job on the anvil..
Very poor restoration, I actually stopped watching the video when they didn't pre-heat, and don't even get me started on how poor the quality of the welding was....
Everyone else is being too nice so I'll go ahead and say it. ANY value that old anvil had, is forever wasted. That was a HACK job and could have been handled so much more different that what was done to it! A new sheet of steel should have been welded to the face after removing all of old one, hardy hole squared up and nice coat of oil applied over all for rust protection. All of that done after soaking in rust remover and wire brushing, all to preserve any and all identifying maker marks! I cringed through the whole thing....
I agree with you. It should have been resurfaced by a grinding machine. that you make it flatter and stronger. Welding just is not they way to to go to restore a anvil.
Should have removed full top layer preheat anvil and replace top layer in my opinion there is still a crack under top that will break eventually. Half a job done in a hurry.
É verdade concordo com você.
А то что площадка на наковальне должна быть ровной автор вкурсе? Или как в мультики " и так сойдёт")
The only problem is that when you welded on it, you didn't preheat the anvil first. So where you welded on it will crack and fall off eventually.
- - - -Mega Deuz
nope.
@@iridios6127 um yes cause it’s cast iron
@@charlesuplifted5216
A year ago I weld a vice - nothing cracked.
Without any preheating.
@@charlesuplifted5216 I don't think it's cast iron, that's not a typical material for anvils. I'm sure it's cast steel.
Cast iron actually is a relatively common material for anvils, although more common in london pattern ones. For most of the history of blacksmithing after full sized rather than stake anvils started being favored, anvils were a wrought iron base (usually made of several smaller pieces forge welded together to build up the shape of the anvil) with a higher carbon steel suitable for tools (I don't say tool steel because some modern classification systems don't call simple high carbon steels like 1080 tool steel, but blacksmiths at the time would understand tool steel to mean something like 1080) plate forge welded to the main striking face that is hardened and tempered. On london pattern anvils the plate stands proud of the top of the horn, but with many other patterns like this one the plate usually spans the whole top surface of the anvil. A more recent development is cast iron bases with a steel suitable for tool making welded to the top, but that process has only been around for a couple hundred years and many manufacturers stuck to wrought iron bases, most of the ones that switched primarily made london patterns afaik. 100% tool steel anvils are even more recent, the price of tool steels has come down a lot compared to history to make it feasible to just cast a whole anvil out of tool steel. You can buy 100% cast iron anvil shaped objects, but cast iron is a horrible material for an anvil face, it is way too soft and brittle. It works just fine as a base if you put a hardened steel plate on top though. @@skunkjobb
Well, it looks better than it did.
What they said
Молодец, братишка!
Получилось супер!
Только вот мне кажется, что её нужно было стабилизировать с помощью термообработки, а то участок , где был наварен металл может отколоться в процессе работы на наковальне. Всё-таки нагрузки там будут приличные!
Удачи в новых проектах!
I'm all for refacing an anvil that has had a chipped away face. Wire wheeling the sides and bottom .. fine. No need to grind the sides away (effectively removing any makers mark) and you didn't add enough hard facing rod to the top. Double horns like that blend the face into the horns. You left a gap. Additionally you could have cleaned up the hardy hole and made it square again and you could have cleaned up the pritchel hole. You get 5 out of 10 for not doing it right. Started off good. Execution and finish needs work.
Thank you. The intent was great but as a blacksmith myself, several parts of this video made me cringe. There's a huge dip in the face, I have a feeling that there was more sections of that face that were separated, those hardy and pritchel holes need to be shored up badly, and that face is going to mar and gouge like a SOB as soon as you bring a hammer down without proper heat treat
@@TopHIgnite exactly. I'm a blacksmith as well (for fun/part time). The Gunther method should have been followed.
@@slc308 another UA-camr by the name of That Other Finnish Guy has a really good anvil restoration video of a double horn around the same size including heat treat and rebound test.
@@TopHIgnite If you have a well dressed hammer even mild steel holds up fine against mishits. The corners can roll over slightly but you can hammer them back to shape easily. Doubt heattreating a heavy anvil is even going to save you any time in the long run unless you have the proper equipment to do it.
@@tijlaerts when you use hard facing rod, it air hardens. You don't need to heat treat it.
Good job. It came a long way from when you started. A real anvil does not look perfect like everyone thinks it should. That looks good mate..
I am jealous. That sir is anvil with a lot of character. 😉
what
That a work, but if you can, it's a good idea to pre heat a anvil, but yea I'd take it, any time you can get your hands on a anvil grab it no matter what the shape it's in.
Oh god!!! What miracles could be done with an angle grinder and alot of spare time!!!
Übel, übel! Die ganze schöne, geschmiedete Oberfläche ist jetzt durch den Winkelschleifer zerstört. Ich frage mich, waru jemand, der mit Metall arbeitet, keinen Blick für sowas hat.
Been better off having a few millimeters milled off the top and reskinned with new steel and surface ground. Otherwise that old anvil had a lot of stories to tell before you ground them all off.
Bonito trabajo , saludos desde Venezuela ciudad de Maracaibo.
Gracias por tus comentarios Hola desde Uzbekistán también
So amazing broo 😎💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Yeah that is a good deal of wasted work. You needed to heat it first and wire wheeling it clean is not a proper welding surface!
Nice
Nice job dude. 👍
A very serviceable job.
I'd probably have gone a little bit further - preheating the anvil to 350F or so (with a propane weed burner perhaps) before building up the hardface weld (incl the hardy hole), then lugged it someplace with a machine lathe and re-leveled both the repaired deck and the feet, to bring it to true. Probably would have buffed the sides with boiled linseed oil, instead of paint.
It does look much better but yes mill off the top plate. Weld on a new piece of 1/2”. Heat it white hot & then quench it with oil. The top should ping. Maybe even mill the bottom as well
@@johnkaspar462 When I first started watching anvil restoratuon vids, I had a similar thought, but after seeing various people attempt part or all of that, I realized what a daunting PITA it is.
> From whatcI saw, welding on a new plate from just the sides can be problematic, because unless the entire bottom surface is welded to the anvil, it can cause large swaths to dead ring, if there is even minor warpage. A full pen weld is impractical because thatd require raising the deck higher and/or hogging off a lot of material to make room to weld from the centerline out. In lieu of a full size 1k+ hammer and an industrial oven to forgeweld a new fullsize deck, the only practical option for individual craftsmen is to just preheat and buildup a new deck with hardface weld, then mill it flat.
> I saw a vid once of a couple of guys who managed to heat a medium sized anvil to yellow hot, then chain hoisted it over a 55gal steel drum of quenching oil, and lowered it in. Huge flaming mess ensued that put most deep-fried turkey fail vids to shame. And to add insult to injury, the quench only accomplished shallow surface hardening (consider the massive internal heat that dissipates SLOWLY outwards), so the resulting ring was actually lower than pre-attempt. 🤯😂
Much better than it was
y a eso le llaman restaurar? parece mas bien un trabajo de el chico que barre el patio, eso es salir de un apuro que no va durar nada lamentable video.....
i like your wire brush :DDD
wow this is something new👍
Perhaps this should have been left to a professional.
Nice job!!! But.... the flat surface of the anvil final is NOT very flat!!! In my pour oppinion a new metal sheet of TOOL steel should be added in order to have the anvil a real HARD working flat area!! In any case the situation of the anvil is BETTER than before!!! Congratulations!!!!
thank you very much for your advice we still have little experience
No tool steel sheet... For this are used hard facings electrodes... That u than grind the face with the horns and corners only, to have it flat... This is destroyed anvil...
@@fearthereaper298 the tool steel can welded with mild steel electrodes and provide a clear flat face so there is necessary to grind...
@@thiodorchalkias8906 but if you wanted to do it by the way you have just written, u would need to grind bellow the plate to be super flat. But it's stupid idea, becouse the weld would Crack, etc.
When u want to weld the face of an anvil, you must pre-heat the anvil, weld few layers with normal rods and then weld with hard facing rods. It will last decades of work
@@fearthereaper298 there is not necessary to preheat the anvil this is for the case that you have to weld aluminium
Using only weldind rods its necessary not only griding but hardenig as well!!!
You should have rented an outside sandblaster.
Nice boat anchor.
She is a little warped on top
sorry but it's not restoration. just a repair. and no preheating before welding?
Реставрация не правильная. Даже не косметическая.
Где выведение зеркала?
Где прикалка плиты?
Где фрезеровка отверстий?
У меня нету такой оборудования
Я живу в Узбекистане нашем стране даже 380В не дадут только 220в
@@ustametal так тогда вопрос, для чего делать инструмент заведомо некачественный?
Вот к примеру: зеркало можно вывести с помощью линейки и крупного зачистного камня на 230ю болгарку.
Отверстия можно вывести напильниками. Круглым и плоским.
А закалить можно нагрев верхнюю часть в течении 2х часов на раскаленных углях, после опустить зеркало в тазик с отработкой.
Для этого супер мощного оборудования ненужно.
И тогда на ней можно будет даже ковать долгое время...
Trebuia inlaturata toata partea de sus si atat. metalul depus este moate si ai decalit nicovala .
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
На продажу пойдет)))
Молодец, но УОНИ 13/55 мягкие, булат-1 надо было.
It’s really fine
Seeing the weld on the top tells me this will never be a solid workhorse. Forged anvils only. Busted face regarding isn’t A+
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👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hope this is never really used. Just wow and not in a good way.
👍👍👍👍👏👏👏
👌👌👌
👍🏻
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
🤟
Hola que tal , que quería saber que número de electrodo suelda vos . Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
Woow
💪👍👍👍
could you use thermite for this???
Wouldn’t call that a restoration. Sorry. Being honest.
not flat all usless anvil
🇧🇷🌱🍃🍃🍃🍃
Yikes. Was that thing used as an anchor?
For hot metal processing
💣
Great job 👏
Sorry but it still looks like it couldn’t be used by a real blacksmith or bladesmith the work table is all over the place the hardy hole is still worn out!!!!
I love anvils but this one needs throwing out
Как эликтроды называются они 13.55?
😘✊✊✊✊
Чот какая-то половинчатая работа... Почему всё лицо не срезал да не наварил полностью? Где гарантия того, что под оставшейся плитой нет коррозии? Потом на глаз продрал кругом, накопал ям, в итоге не наковальня, а модель без возможности нормально её эксплуатировать. Там фрезернуть надо было. Хрень, короче, а не восстановление, за что тут лайки - не понятно...
Спасибо за комментарий. Ты себе смотри у тебя есть всё оборудование А у меня только один сварочный аппарат и болгарка я живу в Узбекистане нашем стране даже 380 В не дают мы работаем 220 В
@@ustametal ааа... Тогда извини. По поводу ремонта могу посоветовать сделать простую направляющую из двух уголков, на них рамку с четырьмя подшипниками по углам как колесики, и на рамку поставить болгарку с шлифовальным толстым диском, получится почти плоскошлифовальный. Я так выкручивался, когда станков у меня еще не было.
@@_MadFox Спасибо за советы
When an anvil is spalling to that degree it’s too far gone. The only thing to do is recast it. With a casting like that if you are going to try welding the surface, it needs constant heat pre and post bringing the temperature down carefully. This will likely chip or shear off but good luck.
Old steel anvils are a a world of difference from cheap cast iron from Harbor Freight.
The body is mild steel / wrought iron with a hard face forge welded on.
The equipment to make them no longer exists as the anvils was made using serious steam hammers and a forge furnace big enough to raise the entire anvil body to welding temperatures.
Modern equivalents are either too big or too small…
Modern good quality cast anvils are basically homogeneous chrome nickel molybdenum tungsten steel… (and an entirely different bitch to weld to).
that really looks shxte
berapa harganya paron ini
Anybody know made in or year this anvil model's ??
1956
@@ustametal thank u sir👌
Так себе .
Era un video per far vedere che cosa non bisogna fare?
Ne ho visti di video ma questa è il più brutto lavoro che abbia mai visto.
Take a few dollars and get some wood and build you a workbench, so you can get your work off the ground.. it's a lot easier on your back... Good job on the anvil..
👍👍
Lol
Автор посмотри другие видео с реставрацией. Ты просто зря потратил время и силы.
A for effort
Very poor restoration, I actually stopped watching the video when they didn't pre-heat, and don't even get me started on how poor the quality of the welding was....
Nice
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Nice
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