If you missed the description. Here it is: Fixing my old Dalsbruk anvil back to use. #Straightened #Welded, and #hardened I have had this anvil many years and wanted to restore it by myself. All tips, hints and advice i got from social media or youtube was more or less incomplete, sometimes totally wrong. So, i decided to greate my own solution and do my own recearch about how-to. This way i got a good result without it being even difficult. Anvil is tempered to hard as possible, to show that when welding this way, its strong enough, even in hardest surface. Use higher annealing temperature if you want less fragile result. Thanks for watching.
@@77Avadon77 actually in this context a water quench is correct. "Never quench in water" is an untrue misconception. Every alloy (usually dependent on its carbon content) has its own optimal quench medium. Alloys from .40% - .60% usually are water quench and from .60% - 1.5% are usually oil quench. The size of the work piece plays a role too. That anvil being a large piece allows for a faster quench so water is actually correct. In fact, the amount of heat stored in that anvil when its at critical temp could set an oil tank on fire and then youd have real problems. No I dont mean just a little surface flame like on Forged in Fire, I mean trip to the ER and burned down building type oil fire. I would never quench a piece that big in oil...unless you have a HUGE tank of oil to diffuse that much heat.
Ive seen at least 100 anvil vids but this is the best because you actually know steel and how to fix and improve upon what you started with. Taking the time to fortify the edges and then full heat treatment is rare.
My question is couldn't he have just heat treated the new edge welds? Unless he thought facing the top off 2 mm drastically reduced the hardness, which being cold worked over time, I'm not sure? Wish he had shown hardness reading before and after, shop looks like they may have at least had those cheap sticks...
Excellent work, my man. That angle grinder work was outstanding. However, consider just welding a high chrome plate to the face of the anvil. I've tried this process before and the problem was that the anvil wasn't through hardened. So I ended up with a soft work surface. Eventually my friend (a welder) prehardened an air-hardening alloy and welded it on. 4 years later and it's still rock solid. In addition to giving me a hard and flat work surface, the increased height also allowed for a step over the horn for tight bends.
WOW!!! Watched about 6 videos before getting to this one. This is going into my saved videos as it was the ONLY one to heat treat the anvil when done. Your welding was masterful in knowledge AND skill. Thanks for making this. I was looking for this exact thing as there are LOTS of anvils I could choose from but the edges are ALL messed up big time and want to have the knowledge of how to repair it so I can get a really good brand that’s been horribly abused for somewhat cheap and restore it
Nice job. I'm curious about the angle grinder belt sander attachment you use to start the video. Please share the brand and supplier you purchased it from. Ken
Long time no see Toumas. I hope all is well in Finland. 200 + mm Grinders are banned at my work place. Too Dangerous to control. I'm about to make an anvil from a railway line, using your model from a few years ago 😊
3 роки тому+5
Its not so long time. 😁 Here most accidents happen with small grinders. One is usually more focused when using big grinder, when smaller ones are used " blind folded holding with a finger or two. 😬
Nicely Done in what looks to be a most proper way. Liked the hard welding the edges and looks like you researched the hardening/tempering process well. Have you tried a scratch test. Curious what the hardness should be. Thanks Buddy!
3 роки тому+4
Thanks mate. Our inspector is away atm. But i think i get numeral results of the hardness next week.
Olipas hyvä video, mun piti vahtia omenapiirakkaa uunista ja sun video oli liian hyvä, mokasin 😄 Mut sä hoidit homman hienosti, hyvä informatiivinen video, kiitos jakamisesta. Iso 👍
3 роки тому+1
Kiitos. Toivottavasti piirakka vielä kuitenkin maistuu. 🙂 Meillä menikin omenat jonkun toukan suihin. Piti kerätä kaikki suoraan kompostiin.
Water quench creates a vapor barrier that keeps the water away from the steel. Better is to mix a batch of super-quench; saltwater, dish soap and jetdry.
Watching your amazing work and noticing at @6:33 you are a fellow sufferer of the evil T1D but the FS Libre help, I can highly recommend mounting it on your chest, I find it stays on much harder and longer and also gives more accurate readings. Keep up the good work keep fighting the good fight and I have subscribed.
Very professional restoration shame about the sound as I was listening with headphones on and you left the masking tape on the side of anvil still good job🇮🇪🏴🇬🇧
3 роки тому
Thanks. But i didn't left the masking tape on. That stripe is white paint.
Did he just weld a new plate on and call it good? If anything it would only be welded around the edges. I know on a lot of wrought iron anvils the faceplate is forged welded on. This would be far superior to any electric welding. Maybe he padded the void with hardfacing rod I just didn't see him laying down all that many beads. I don't know what to think about this video. I get that he redid the heart treat then tempered the new plate . But if he did what I just think he did only welding a new plate on then grinding most of the reinforcement weld off when dressing the edges back square, don't think I like that. Tell me this isn't what I just saw That old faceplate didn't look that badly damaged and it was forgedwrlded on and could only be removed by going to the extreme with a chop saw. Meaning the old faceplate was one homogeneous piece with the anvil. Far superior to a new faceplate only welded around the edges!
2 роки тому
No. There's no new plate. Those Dalsbruk anvil's are solid hard steel. No need to plate it. Only cracks have been filled with welds. There was no old faceplate either.
Itsellä sama alasin harraste käytössä vaikkakin se on aika pahoin kärsinyt. Hienosti tuli selväksi miten nuo nurkat oikea oppisesti kuuluisi korjata 👌 kuinka paksu kerros karkaisua suunnilleen on ja kuinka se käytännössä testataan jos innostuu joskus oikaisemaan pintaa? Tämänkään alasimen ikää ei tarkalleen tiedä, mutta taidan olla neljännen sukupolven takoja samalla alasimella 😄
3 роки тому
Kyllä sen jo huomaa kovuudessa jos pinnasta poistaa 5mm. Helpoin keino kokeilla kotona on raaputtaa pintaa eri materiaaleilla ja verrata tulosta vaikka lekan päähän raaputettuun jälkeen. Toinen on yrittää lyödä pistepuikolla jälki, tai tuo laakerinkuulan pompauttaminen, kovasta pomppaa lähes pudotuskorkeuteen, pehmeämmästä pomppu jää matalammaksi.
Kiitos. Vähän harmi kun ei onnistu tuon iän määrittely. Sen tiedän että se oli edellisellä omistajalla 50 vuotta, ei vain enää muistanut mistä itse sen sai. Tuumin kuitenkin, että se on arvokkaampi käytössä, kuin säilöttynä murjotussa kunnossaan jälkipolville, vaikka muoto vähän muuttuikin oikaisun myötä.
Hieno video ja pro kunnostus👍 Hiuan häiritsi taustamusiikit ja tuo profiilin muutos. Mutta ei kai se niin tarkkaa käyttöesineelle. Toimii ja näyttää hyvältä. Näytti olevan muottiin taottu Varmaan n sata vuotias..
Nice restore, mate, looks neat.👍🏽 Cutting the top of was much quicker than grinding? How long did it take to cut through?
3 роки тому+3
About ten-fifteen minutes and two wheels. When grinding you need to check level time after time, otherwise it gets easily rounded. When its cut straight, its instantly ready, no other manouvers needed.
![Vise Drill Anvil [Restoration]](/img/n.gif)
If you missed the description. Here it is:
Fixing my old Dalsbruk anvil back to use.
#Straightened
#Welded, and #hardened
I have had this anvil many years and wanted to restore it by myself.
All tips, hints and advice i got from social media or youtube was more or less incomplete, sometimes totally wrong.
So, i decided to greate my own solution and do my own recearch about how-to.
This way i got a good result without it being even difficult.
Anvil is tempered to hard as possible, to show that when welding this way, its strong enough, even in hardest surface.
Use higher annealing temperature if you want less fragile result.
Thanks for watching.
Through the cutting and welding I was aghast, until I saw the torch and quench tank - now you have my subscription. Absolutely awesome!
I had to chuckle when you said the anvil is preheated to 40 degrees Celsius before welding. Here is Australia, we’d just leave it out in the sun. 😎
Lol. Here we need to heat even refrigerators. 😬
That cut you pulled off with that grinder was pro-status. Bravo
Thanks. 🙂
Yah but the quench in water (instead of oil) should get you banished from the kingdom! Never quench in water!
@@77Avadon77 actually in this context a water quench is correct. "Never quench in water" is an untrue misconception. Every alloy (usually dependent on its carbon content) has its own optimal quench medium. Alloys from .40% - .60% usually are water quench and from .60% - 1.5% are usually oil quench. The size of the work piece plays a role too. That anvil being a large piece allows for a faster quench so water is actually correct. In fact, the amount of heat stored in that anvil when its at critical temp could set an oil tank on fire and then youd have real problems. No I dont mean just a little surface flame like on Forged in Fire, I mean trip to the ER and burned down building type oil fire. I would never quench a piece that big in oil...unless you have a HUGE tank of oil to diffuse that much heat.
Ive seen at least 100 anvil vids but this is the best because you actually know steel and how to fix and improve upon what you started with. Taking the time to fortify the edges and then full heat treatment is rare.
My question is couldn't he have just heat treated the new edge welds? Unless he thought facing the top off 2 mm drastically reduced the hardness, which being cold worked over time, I'm not sure? Wish he had shown hardness reading before and after, shop looks like they may have at least had those cheap sticks...
First anvil restoration I’ve seen done properly.
Thanks!
Excellent work, my man. That angle grinder work was outstanding. However, consider just welding a high chrome plate to the face of the anvil. I've tried this process before and the problem was that the anvil wasn't through hardened. So I ended up with a soft work surface. Eventually my friend (a welder) prehardened an air-hardening alloy and welded it on. 4 years later and it's still rock solid. In addition to giving me a hard and flat work surface, the increased height also allowed for a step over the horn for tight bends.
Impressive grinding skills, I would have to machine it flat if I tried grinding :D
Indeed. It's so straight and flat that it almost look like a machined. Excellent work.
WOW!!! Watched about 6 videos before getting to this one. This is going into my saved videos as it was the ONLY one to heat treat the anvil when done. Your welding was masterful in knowledge AND skill. Thanks for making this. I was looking for this exact thing as there are LOTS of anvils I could choose from but the edges are ALL messed up big time and want to have the knowledge of how to repair it so I can get a really good brand that’s been horribly abused for somewhat cheap and restore it
I dread to think how long it took to heat that anvil to critical with just a torch, must have been walking around it for ages
Nice job. I'm curious about the angle grinder belt sander attachment you use to start the video. Please share the brand and supplier you purchased it from. Ken
Long time no see Toumas. I hope all is well in Finland. 200 + mm Grinders are banned at my work place. Too Dangerous to control. I'm about to make an anvil from a railway line, using your model from a few years ago 😊
Its not so long time. 😁 Here most accidents happen with small grinders. One is usually more focused when using big grinder, when smaller ones are used " blind folded holding with a finger or two. 😬
Скажите пожалуйста какими эликтродами можно наварить?
Great restoration
But at the end I realised it is too small for normal job and too large for jewellery
I wonder where it’s useful
Does anybody remember that the song in this video was featured in Road Rash on Nintendo 64?
Great process demonstration. Thank you.
Nicely Done in what looks to be a most proper way. Liked the hard welding the edges and looks like you researched the hardening/tempering process well. Have you tried a scratch test. Curious what the hardness should be. Thanks Buddy!
Thanks mate. Our inspector is away atm. But i think i get numeral results of the hardness next week.
@ did you ever got to test this ?
Nice anvil but wasted bouncing round like that and dangerous.
Too bad you aren't local to my area, I've got three anvils that could use your expertise.
Nice welding skills
Olipas hyvä video, mun piti vahtia omenapiirakkaa uunista ja sun video oli liian hyvä, mokasin 😄 Mut sä hoidit homman hienosti, hyvä informatiivinen video, kiitos jakamisesta. Iso 👍
Kiitos. Toivottavasti piirakka vielä kuitenkin maistuu. 🙂 Meillä menikin omenat jonkun toukan suihin. Piti kerätä kaikki suoraan kompostiin.
You should have preheat before you weld
Real restoration, good job done God bless you.
Thank you very much!
Nice work Sir... thanks for sharing...
Haha, Paul. I think we are more alike than first thought.
Kyllä on äijällä taitoa ja KÄRSIVÄLLISYYTTÄ!
Meni kolme tuntia lämmittää alasin tarpeeksi kuumaksi. Meinasi loppua hiki kesken. 😁
@ no varmasti
Bravo!
Water quench creates a vapor barrier that keeps the water away from the steel. Better is to mix a batch of super-quench; saltwater, dish soap and jetdry.
Watching your amazing work and noticing at @6:33 you are a fellow sufferer of the evil T1D but the FS Libre help, I can highly recommend mounting it on your chest, I find it stays on much harder and longer and also gives more accurate readings. Keep up the good work keep fighting the good fight and I have subscribed.
Täytyi kerrata video.. 🎅🏻👍🏻🇫🇮
I never seen anyone paint a restored anvil before.
Questions have been answered. Thank you.
A really educational video. The most important is not your perfect job but the rods you use
Hieno lopputulos 👍 on siinä melko homma hioa kaikki kuntoon 😄💪
Very professional restoration shame about the sound as I was listening with headphones on and you left the masking tape on the side of anvil still good job🇮🇪🏴🇬🇧
Thanks. But i didn't left the masking tape on. That stripe is white paint.
Did he just weld a new plate on and call it good? If anything it would only be welded around the edges. I know on a lot of wrought iron anvils the faceplate is forged welded on. This would be far superior to any electric welding. Maybe he padded the void with hardfacing rod I just didn't see him laying down all that many beads.
I don't know what to think about this video. I get that he redid the heart treat then tempered the new plate .
But if he did what I just think he did only welding a new plate on then grinding most of the reinforcement weld off when dressing the edges back square, don't think I like that.
Tell me this isn't what I just saw
That old faceplate didn't look that badly damaged and it was forgedwrlded on and could only be removed by going to the extreme with a chop saw. Meaning the old faceplate was one homogeneous piece with the anvil. Far superior to a new faceplate only welded around the edges!
No. There's no new plate. Those Dalsbruk anvil's are solid hard steel. No need to plate it. Only cracks have been filled with welds. There was no old faceplate either.
@ oh ok then now that makes perfect sense. It didn't look like you was padding it. Why I asked.
Excellent work!
Professional restoration....
I thought anvil restoration would be only about grinding .
Thanks for teaching !
Hardest layer on the top isn't very thick, so if just grinded, it looses some of its usability and goes grooved faster.
@ Nice hardening but I also liked (and learned about) the crack test too.
Excellent work 👍👍👍 . Thanks for sharing
Thanks you for watching!
Great video, awesome anvil restoration, thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Excellent job 👍
Good to see you.
👍🏻
Excellently done.
Well done, sir.
Itsellä sama alasin harraste käytössä vaikkakin se on aika pahoin kärsinyt. Hienosti tuli selväksi miten nuo nurkat oikea oppisesti kuuluisi korjata 👌 kuinka paksu kerros karkaisua suunnilleen on ja kuinka se käytännössä testataan jos innostuu joskus oikaisemaan pintaa?
Tämänkään alasimen ikää ei tarkalleen tiedä, mutta taidan olla neljännen sukupolven takoja samalla alasimella 😄
Kyllä sen jo huomaa kovuudessa jos pinnasta poistaa 5mm. Helpoin keino kokeilla kotona on raaputtaa pintaa eri materiaaleilla ja verrata tulosta vaikka lekan päähän raaputettuun jälkeen. Toinen on yrittää lyödä pistepuikolla jälki, tai tuo laakerinkuulan pompauttaminen, kovasta pomppaa lähes pudotuskorkeuteen, pehmeämmästä pomppu jää matalammaksi.
Wow great job you are amazing man
Thank you!
Good job! Excellent restoration!!!
Thanks !
Proper job! Lovely work
Thank you!
👍👍👍
❤️👍
Näyttää, että tuli parempi kuin alkuperäisestä!
Kiitos. Vähän harmi kun ei onnistu tuon iän määrittely. Sen tiedän että se oli edellisellä omistajalla 50 vuotta, ei vain enää muistanut mistä itse sen sai. Tuumin kuitenkin, että se on arvokkaampi käytössä, kuin säilöttynä murjotussa kunnossaan jälkipolville, vaikka muoto vähän muuttuikin oikaisun myötä.
Hieno video ja pro kunnostus👍 Hiuan häiritsi taustamusiikit ja tuo profiilin muutos. Mutta ei kai se niin tarkkaa käyttöesineelle. Toimii ja näyttää hyvältä.
Näytti olevan muottiin taottu Varmaan n sata vuotias..
Very well👍
Thanks!
Sitten vain ahjon teko seuraavaksi
Kuorma-auton jarrurumpu on odottanut jo tovin pihassa päätymistä hiiliahjoksi.
Vaatii ensin alasimelle kunnon jalustan ennenkuin siinä alkaa mitään isommin tekemään :D Hieno on kyllä lopuksi!
beau travail, comme d'habitude 👍, toujours un plaisir de visionner tes vidéos😉😉 (nice job, as usual 👍, always a pleasure to watch your videos😉😉)
Thanks buddy. I have been away for a while. I have a set of your videos to be watched too. I watch them soon as i can. 🙂
Nice restore, mate, looks neat.👍🏽
Cutting the top of was much quicker than grinding?
How long did it take to cut through?
About ten-fifteen minutes and two wheels. When grinding you need to check level time after time, otherwise it gets easily rounded. When its cut straight, its instantly ready, no other manouvers needed.
@
You've definitely got the skills, man.👍🏽