I have the same stool with a rattan top which I have to replace with a solid top , this video has inspired me to make a whole new stool from scratch. Love your channel and that dowel jig is next level.
Nice work Colin that came out great I love that dowelling jig tool you have I looked in the description to see if there was a link to the make but couldn't see it.
If you look through some of his other videos he has mentioned that jig, and has included links before. Unfortunately I can't remember which videos they are specifically.
Enjoyed the video, I would like to see more of your build videos and maybe fewer "tips and tricks". I like using dowels for joinery and avoid using screws like the plague.
Colin , I was just wondering your thoughts on why the lumber prices have sky rocketed ? Seems everything is rising in price without any more quality than before. Us home retired woodworkers will have unplug our saws. Thanks for the informative videos.
Colin - as you apply your finish, it makes sense to avoid the end grain with dowel connections, but how do you avoid finish on the legs at the point of glue up? Do you find that impacts your glue up and joint strength? Thanks for all your video tips.
Not Colin but I think I have an answer. The short answer: Try to avoid it, but it won’t affect the main source of strength for the joint. All of the joints have an end grain to long grain connection, whether the long grain is the face or the edge of the board. Having glue on the ends of the board won’t do much as end grain absorbs glue like crazy. Similarly, if you put glue on the corresponding part of the long grain board, the end grain of the mating piece will soak that right up as well. The strength comes from the glue surface between the dowels and the holes in each board. It’s a similar idea to a mortise and tenon- the shoulders of the tenon aren’t providing much “quality” (i.e. non-end grain) glue surface, they’re really just to prevent racking. The strength comes from the glue surface of the cheeks of the tenon and the inside walls of the mortise. Having finish at the point of contact on those boards will prevent glue from sticking there, but that glue wouldn’t have done much in the first place. Hope that helps!
Since I live far from N-Am I don't know much about white (Quercus alba) and red oak (Q. rubra). However, from what I once learned, looking at end grain is universally the most common "tool" to speciate wood species (though I personally used a whole set of other characteristics when I worked in tropical rainforests with species identification and there were up to 120 different timber species/hectare). A quick search on the net took me to a site where it explained the difference in wood ray lengths (tangential view I assume): *Red oak* will almost always have very short rays, usually between 1/8″ to 1/2″ long, rarely up to 1″ in length. *White oak* have much longer rays, frequently exceeding 3/4″. (the site also mentioned spraying the wood with sodium nitrate - NaNO2 - but that's something ppl usually never carry around). So next time, ask the guy in the store, then look at the rays and see if there are any difference.
Nice video. In my experience, unfinished white oak has a slight greenish hue whereas red oak has a pinkish hue. It's difficult to see unless you have both on hand for comparison. I use the Dowelmax jig too. It is the best doweling jig on the market but it is very expensive, yet worth the investment.
Red oak. White oak. Very similar unfinished. Very visible difference with just a urethane finish. And then begins the struggle to find a colored finish that will help the white blend with the red.
I have a question about the Dowelmax. It appears that it does not center the holes. Whereas, Grizzly offers a similar product that automatically centers the holes. Which is a better choice? I enjoy, and look forward to your videos.
Colin! Colin! How could you make a vid' about working with oak, without mentioning the different cuts and the effects they produce? You only have to compare the figuring between plain sawn and quarter cut, to understand what I'm talking about. I'd also argue that decent oak deserves a decent joint. Unlike dowels, decent oak joints will last centuries. Huh! Hark at me talking about quarter cut oak, as if; not being commercial; I could afford to use it. 😭
Great Video Colin, that Red Oak demo was a mind blower... or in this case a water blower LOL! Can you clarify something for me: Were the undersized dowels used only for the dry fit and then you switch over to regular-sized dowels for the glue-up? or.. do you always use undersized dowels for a specific reason? The video jumped to the next step at that point, and left me wondering.
Only for the dry fit. Collin had a video addressing this in the past. Dry fitting with the actual dowels can make it very difficult to take apart for gluing due to the tighter fit.
@@dwightl5863 Thank you... I thought that was the case... and now that you mentioned about a previous episode, I watch all of them, so vaguely remember that now... Also I noticed they were colored red, so I thought these must be "special" dowels for dry fit purposes only... Okay... that cleared it up!
I'd like to make a couple of comments. I was a bit disappointed that you didn't provide much info directly relating to working with oak. I find that the grain is so open that to get that "finished feel" I need to use a filler, especially on the top, or surfaces I know will be touched. Then you put on finish before glue-up. Interesting decision. But the tiny bit you showed us, a stretcher, is very easy to apply finish and not put on the glue surface, but the legs, that would be much harder. Did you mask off all those joints? And then the Dowelmax. Now I love my Dowelmax and have used it, but I suspect purists may give you grief over it's use. Thanks.
Since you prefinished the parts what did you do with the matted parts when time to glue? Did you have to tape off the legs? Then is squeeze out easy to clean since surrounding area would be finished?
I love the idea of some videos specific to particular species, but I was disappointed to feel that very little of what I saw was at all specific to oak.
What type of pad do you use with Osmo and where to buy in Ontario??? I have bought a few of their products from LV and have been using a rag but would like the pads
Great video, although I'm not an Oak fan at all...I enjoyed your knowledge. I don't like the way it looks --alway reminds me of church pews., and just has little character to me. Personal opinion of course.
Colin, I thought this was going to be about OAK, but I was pretty disappointed in this video, in that it was NOT about oak! You could have done the exact same video on any wood whatsoever. I use oak when I want a more reasonably priced hardwood, but, frankly, I find it very difficult to work without getting burn marks, and was hoping to get some ideas from your video...but other than "be sure your tools are sharp", you offered nothing at all. And, BTW, yes, I know that and I also know that one wants to feed material through the cutting edge fairly quickly and smoothly, etc....but I still often get burn marks from table saw or router.
The problem with oak is so outdated nobody likes it in this time of age it was popular in the sixties and the seventies.. Now it just looks like grandma's furniture
I have the same stool with a rattan top which I have to replace with a solid top , this video has inspired me to make a whole new stool from scratch. Love your channel and that dowel jig is next level.
A remarkable amount of information in a short video - great job!
Practical, real-world experience...shared with the real-world of woodworkers. Gracias!
Nice video Colin, love the grain in that oak
Many thanks from Egypt
Thanks from St. Petersburg
Nice work Colin that came out great I love that dowelling jig tool you have I looked in the description to see if there was a link to the make but couldn't see it.
Im also looking for it. I'm ready to use this type of joinery.
Yes, Colin, please post a link for the dowling jig you are using.
If you look through some of his other videos he has mentioned that jig, and has included links before. Unfortunately I can't remember which videos they are specifically.
It's a Dowelmax
DOWELMAX......$235.00......still want one ??
Great stuff, and nice to see dowelling jig demonstration
Colin, have you tried Odie’s Oil for finishing your projects yet? If you haven’t, would you consider trying it and doing a video on it?
Seeing the glue up would have been great Colin.
Colin, love your channel....I have learned so much. Do you have a link to your doweling jig. Thank you for your great work. Doug
What's the name of the jig you're using and where can I purchase it?
Thanks for sharing those tips!
Great Master 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Love your videos
My refered wood for making aquarium stand cabinets for large aquariums. Moist oak does not lose its structural strength
Beautiful work, Colin! Really nice! 😃
Thanks for all the tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Enjoyed the video, I would like to see more of your build videos and maybe fewer "tips and tricks". I like using dowels for joinery and avoid using screws like the plague.
Great video. Thank you sir.
Colin , I was just wondering your thoughts on why the lumber prices have sky rocketed ? Seems everything is rising in price without any more quality than before. Us home retired woodworkers will have unplug our saws. Thanks for the informative videos.
Colin - as you apply your finish, it makes sense to avoid the end grain with dowel connections, but how do you avoid finish on the legs at the point of glue up? Do you find that impacts your glue up and joint strength? Thanks for all your video tips.
Not Colin but I think I have an answer. The short answer: Try to avoid it, but it won’t affect the main source of strength for the joint.
All of the joints have an end grain to long grain connection, whether the long grain is the face or the edge of the board. Having glue on the ends of the board won’t do much as end grain absorbs glue like crazy. Similarly, if you put glue on the corresponding part of the long grain board, the end grain of the mating piece will soak that right up as well.
The strength comes from the glue surface between the dowels and the holes in each board. It’s a similar idea to a mortise and tenon- the shoulders of the tenon aren’t providing much “quality” (i.e. non-end grain) glue surface, they’re really just to prevent racking. The strength comes from the glue surface of the cheeks of the tenon and the inside walls of the mortise.
Having finish at the point of contact on those boards will prevent glue from sticking there, but that glue wouldn’t have done much in the first place.
Hope that helps!
Such a coincidence. I am making the exact same thing foot stool using oak. I was in the shop today drilling the dowels.
Hi انا معجب بعمالك روعه جميل جدا
Since I live far from N-Am I don't know much about white (Quercus alba) and red oak (Q. rubra). However, from what I once learned, looking at end grain is universally the most common "tool" to speciate wood species (though I personally used a whole set of other characteristics when I worked in tropical rainforests with species identification and there were up to 120 different timber species/hectare).
A quick search on the net took me to a site where it explained the difference in wood ray lengths (tangential view I assume):
*Red oak* will almost always have very short rays, usually between 1/8″ to 1/2″ long, rarely up to 1″ in length.
*White oak* have much longer rays, frequently exceeding 3/4″.
(the site also mentioned spraying the wood with sodium nitrate - NaNO2 - but that's something ppl usually never carry around).
So next time, ask the guy in the store, then look at the rays and see if there are any difference.
thank you sir
It’s only popular where I live because it’s the only alternative to construction pine and freight pallets.
Nice video. In my experience, unfinished white oak has a slight greenish hue whereas red oak has a pinkish hue. It's difficult to see unless you have both on hand for comparison. I use the Dowelmax jig too. It is the best doweling jig on the market but it is very expensive, yet worth the investment.
Red oak. White oak. Very similar unfinished. Very visible difference with just a urethane finish. And then begins the struggle to find a colored finish that will help the white blend with the red.
I have a question about the Dowelmax. It appears that it does not center the holes. Whereas, Grizzly offers a similar product that automatically centers the holes. Which is a better choice? I enjoy, and look forward to your videos.
Colin! Colin! How could you make a vid' about working with oak, without mentioning the different cuts and the effects they produce?
You only have to compare the figuring between plain sawn and quarter cut, to understand what I'm talking about.
I'd also argue that decent oak deserves a decent joint. Unlike dowels, decent oak joints will last centuries.
Huh! Hark at me talking about quarter cut oak, as if; not being commercial; I could afford to use it. 😭
Great video thank you for sharing.
Looked really nice at the end :-)
Great Video Colin, that Red Oak demo was a mind blower... or in this case a water blower LOL! Can you clarify something for me: Were the undersized dowels used only for the dry fit and then you switch over to regular-sized dowels for the glue-up? or.. do you always use undersized dowels for a specific reason? The video jumped to the next step at that point, and left me wondering.
Only for the dry fit. Collin had a video addressing this in the past. Dry fitting with the actual dowels can make it very difficult to take apart for gluing due to the tighter fit.
@@dwightl5863 Thank you... I thought that was the case... and now that you mentioned about a previous episode, I watch all of them, so vaguely remember that now... Also I noticed they were colored red, so I thought these must be "special" dowels for dry fit purposes only... Okay... that cleared it up!
I'd like to make a couple of comments. I was a bit disappointed that you didn't provide much info directly relating to working with oak. I find that the grain is so open that to get that "finished feel" I need to use a filler, especially on the top, or surfaces I know will be touched. Then you put on finish before glue-up. Interesting decision. But the tiny bit you showed us, a stretcher, is very easy to apply finish and not put on the glue surface, but the legs, that would be much harder. Did you mask off all those joints? And then the Dowelmax. Now I love my Dowelmax and have used it, but I suspect purists may give you grief over it's use. Thanks.
Did you glue it? How do you stain all sides at the same time without one side contacting the bench or tarp?
Noooice!
Parabéns ficou show 🇧🇷💯
Beautiful, Thanks. Влад.
Since you prefinished the parts what did you do with the matted parts when time to glue? Did you have to tape off the legs? Then is squeeze out easy to clean since surrounding area would be finished?
Do you find that oak is prone to splitting if using screws?
It amazes me that you can blow through a piece of red oak like that!
Very nice and informative!
Thanks again.👍
I keep reading how white oak deals with water well however, every time something I make in white oak gets wet, it cracks, checks and twists.
Hi Colin,
I was wanting if it's possible to construct the small tiber Stoll that you made with pocket hole journey system.
Thanks Martin.
I love the idea of some videos specific to particular species, but I was disappointed to feel that very little of what I saw was at all specific to oak.
Nifty little foot stool, mate. 👍🏽
What kind of top are you going to fit?
My very question and what was the reason for putting the top apron (or rail) down a little bit?
@@herbsu4330
Pretty sure he said it was part of the reveal, aesthetics more than anything else, I think?
@@herbsu4330 Colin mentioned he wanted the legs to protrude. A design feature.
So you use the undersized dowels for dry assembly, and then regular dowels for final assembly?
Can wood be sanded too much?
few spare bucks? The hard back is $284 lol.
great Colin, 💯👍
great video, i enjoy it. Also just sub. to your channel.
What type of pad do you use with Osmo and where to buy in Ontario??? I have bought a few of their products from LV and have been using a rag but would like the pads
3M super fine scotch brite pads. You can order or pickup from KJP Hardwood in Ottawa
@@sterlinghein thanks
Where did you purchase your Dowling jig?
Прикольный такой мужик, жаль что ничего не понятно
i got a piece of scrap oak that i can try the water thing
5:55 unc said y’all too fat nowadays 😂
Is there a solid top for the cushion?
Great video, although I'm not an Oak fan at all...I enjoyed your knowledge. I don't like the way it looks --alway reminds me of church pews., and just has little character to me. Personal opinion of course.
Red oak is not used for boatbuilding because of its porosity
Does anyone know which doweling jig he uses?
That's the dowelmaster a very nice tool.
@@Belg1970 dowelmaster or dowelmax? I looked up dowelmaster and couldn't find something that looked like what he was using.
Dowelmax
i think i remember him mentioning dowelmax jig
It was a year ago. Time is running fast
Where did you get the dowel jig?
If you use through dowels for decorative effect, are they as strong?
Stronger because the dowels go all the way through. Mechanically stronger plus more glue area.
@@dwightl5863 Thank you!
ممتاز
Очень интересно,спасибо!
Hello
Don't show how you can joint the wood by making dowel it's just disappointed me
Colin, I thought this was going to be about OAK, but I was pretty disappointed in this video, in that it was NOT about oak! You could have done the exact same video on any wood whatsoever. I use oak when I want a more reasonably priced hardwood, but, frankly, I find it very difficult to work without getting burn marks, and was hoping to get some ideas from your video...but other than "be sure your tools are sharp", you offered nothing at all. And, BTW, yes, I know that and I also know that one wants to feed material through the cutting edge fairly quickly and smoothly, etc....but I still often get burn marks from table saw or router.
Well if you have burns it's one of those 2. Feed not fast enough or tools
Did you miss the part talking about and demonstrating the differences between red and white oak? You must have done.
„They are happy to show you“. In Germany they hide from you because of no service culture.. 😅
'Stacked vertically', recoils in horror
You talk too much !!!
The problem with oak is so outdated nobody likes it in this time of age it was popular in the sixties and the seventies.. Now it just looks like grandma's furniture
Love Osmo but you apply with no pressure?