Best Results for Woodworking with Pine Wood
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- Опубліковано 5 лис 2020
- Pine lumber is common woodworking wood for many woodworkers and what it has in beauty it lacks in strength, but there are things that can be done to boost the wood strength of pine for all sorts of household furniture items like bedside tables, kitchen tables, chest of drawers, desks, decorative cabinets and more which is what this video is about, working with pine to get better, stronger and more predictable results. In this video, we'll review how to get the most out of softwoods like pine wood, including how to finish and stain pine
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Wood Joint Strength Tests on End Joints - • Wood Joint Strength Te...
How to Finish Wood w/ Owatrol Products - • How to Finish Wood w/ ...
Furniture Finish & Wood Finishing Tips and Techniques - • Furniture Finish & Woo...
Wood Finishing - Dying Wood Versus Staining Wood - • Wood Finishing - Dying...
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#pine #lumber #softwood
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Years ago, I started out building my furniture projects out of pinewood simply because it's always been the least expensive wood available. And, I always figured that, as I got better at wood working, and had more money to spend, I'd surely switch to using the finer and more expensive woods. But, after many many more years of building furniture, I still use pinewood today. Over the years, as I became more familiar with the characteristics of pinewood, I started to see how easy it is to make my pine furniture look absolutely gorgeous! It's also very easy to work with. But, one of my greatest pleasures is taking a stack of lowly construction lumber and turning it into a stunning piece of furniture for people to enjoy.
a lot of pros say that it's much easier to work with hardwood. I like working with pine,just need to make sure it's dry before you buy it..boy does it like to do yoga or what...
I love pine. Light, strong and easy to cut and the price is right. Although lately even pine has become pricey. It seems that there is always a ton of scrap laying around at the end of driveways. Hard to beat 'free'.
I agree !
I use different woods but pine is one of my favorite. It really has grown on me.
I have want to make a 6 ft pine post but the wood keeps warping. Do you have Any suggestions please? I just want a 6 ft vertical, straight post, used 1x6 and it warped after I jointed and planed the wood. What can I do to prevent this?
You are way better than any shop teacher I ever had. Thank you
Thank you, Colin. Your time and contributions are greatly appreciated. Go well, and stay well.
For a newbie like me, who works primarily with pine, this video helps a lot. Great work 😊👍
That was a great video. I worked with pine before , but this video helped me learn about the best way to get around with joinery. This video will definitely help many who start off with pine wood projects.
I always enjoy your stuff, Colin! You are my first stop when a new episode is released.
Brilliant Colin! Great content, great editing, great audio, lighting etc.
Thank you!
I work with white pine 1x4s every day and have literal tons of scrap to build furniture with. Thanks for the info dude! Love your videos
I live in California where pine is readily available so I have made many projects with it. It is easy to work with and makes beautiful and cheap gifts. I really love the natural golden color it takes on with age.
Thanks for this video. I've only worked with pine and these are great tips.
Good info. I use to think dowels were old school and inferior to pocket holes. I learned somethings from you today. Thank you.
PARABÉNS...., sempre uma verdadeira aula!!! Gosto muito dos seus vídeos. Obrigado!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Great video. I've learned a lot of new things. Thanks for sharing.
Like your clear concise way of passing on your skills built up over many years thank you !
no sure about dyes, My personal preference is coloured varnishes that show the grain of the wood !
Very informative as always, thank Colin
I'm still working with low cost materials, someday I hope to start making projects with nice hardwoods. These tips will surely help me now, thanks Colin.
Go to an actual hardwood company near you. Buying stuff such as maple, ash, etc. from an actual hardwood company is only like 25% more expensive than buying appearance grade pine from big box stores.
The more you work with pine, you'll see that you can actually build some very stunning furniture pieces with it. And, when it comes to staining, be sure to apply Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner before you apply the stain. It will stop the surface from blotching and it'll look beautiful.
Same here! Making majority of my projects out of pallet wood currently..save the planet and save a buck too!!
Thanks Colin, really helpful tips there.
I love woodworking, thank you for shearing such an important ideas.
Great info, thanks Colin!
Always good tips there Colin, Thanks for sharing. Also the variety of subjects keeps your channel very interesting, so thank you. :)
Really enjoyed this build and the different staining technique. I want to start doing more pine based projects and I think that dowel jig is a great asset to have to secure the pine without using hardware.
Thanks for a great video Colin!
Thanks for the video, once I use up my stain I'll look at getting some dye etc!
Thanks v much Colin, great video as usual
Very informative Colin, as usual. Stay safe.🇬🇧
I learned some important information today. Think I'll reconsider dowels over the pocket holes! Thx
Only issue I've ever ran into with Pine is, the with Cedar, the sap. I enjoy working with pine, just really need to have patience with it. Great video, cheers :)
I just built a toddler bed out of pine BEFORE watching this. I did use some of this information incidentally, but this is good stuf!!!
Thanks for the knowledge, Sir !!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video and info. Thank you!
i should have been watching these videos at the start of the COVID lockdown!
Awesome video! Thank you!
Thanks for posting 👍
Always excellent, Colin. Many, many thanks. 😷👍🇬🇧
Love your energy, man
Great advice. I follow a similar pre-assembly finish process. I use blue painter’s tape to protect the areas where I want glue. It takes a little time, but I know that I have a surface that will absorb glue. With Osmo it works well.
Colin, you are awesome. Love your style.
I love this guy.
Good video as always. Might have to try finishing before sticking stuff together and see how it goes. The dye is interesting as well but I will say I prefer using the conditioner first with stains not only to remove the blotchyness but it also give the base a nice golden tone so the stain looks much more rich and vibrant, wonder if it'll work with a dye as well... I have many new things to test now.
Very informative. thank you for this video.
I have that doweling set, made in Canada by nice folks. It's about all I use for joinery. Thanks Colin.
I was looking for a link to find out what kind of dowling jig that was. It seems to work quick and simply.
Thanks for a good explanation. You have taught me a lot in a short video thanks again.
Thank you.
I am just amazed the strength of the dowels over the rest, and now i have been taught how to better build my projects. Thank you for sharing ( Stay Safe ) .
I'm a firm believer in dowels. I'm surprised that the pocket holes were even that strong.
@@CeeJayThe13th Bogus test, do the research,
@@OldDunollieman I don't need to do the research. I just meant in that test.
@@OldDunollieman there’s plenty of tests showing pocket holes failing with minimally force compared to dowels and m&t. They are not strong, nor were they ever intended to be a structural joint in solid wood. They work great for cabinet construction and face frames, but they aren’t for furniture.
Awesome video thank you!
thank you
This is great I did not know about Osmo as an option.
Great video!
I use pine when I turn wood on a lathe, it's great to practice with.
Thanks
thanks
the dowels supprised me, thanks.
I appreciated this video Colin. I use pine as it is readily available and I am cheap and not very knowledgeable. I have a doweling jig and I find the problem for me is getting the holes in the opposing piece in the correct spot to fit the other piece.
The biggest piece of advice I can give you... you must have a constant. Always use the same "start" point. And that spacer he had in the dowel jig gives you the "reveal" spacing. If you want the pieces to have an offset look that is necessary for your constant in that direction.
Plan out your work, either drawings or in your head. Make sure your pieces are all uniform. Use tape or pencil to mark "sides" "top/bottom" etc. And always use the same reference point or "constant."
Thanks. I never heard of wood hardener before.
I am curious about your dowel jig. It looks to be more accurate than the ones I have seen. I enjoy your videos. You take the time to explain things well.
Thanks col
Nice to see you build something as opposed to all the tips and tricks videos you do. Good video, I use pine allot, I have woodlot and sawmill and pine are my most mature trees.
I wish your forests grow thick and your blades stay sharp, that’s awesome
Warm greetings from India 🙏. Brilliant teaching! We need teachers like you Sir 🙏. Our engineering schools teach rubbish here i.e. just theory from books and very very little practical knowledge.
I'm also a newbie to pinewood so landed here.. I've been using plywood and teak wood since last 8 yrs and now I want to try pinewood as my friend wants me to build a table top using pinewood. I hope to show you my creation in a few weeks 😉.
I’m building bookcases using pine stair treads, they are 1” thick with one bullnose edge. Got the idea from Tom Silva. I put a Minwax stain on them. They are uneven at first but just wait a day or two and they even out and become beautiful. I’m going to check into the dowel jig.
Sweet idea on the stair treads!!
Good show!
Great video
I tried using colored leather dyes on wood and had good success too. I agree that a dye does a better job than stain. The dyes that I've used were water or alcohol based by Fiebing's leather dye.
I like your glue bottle. Brilliant 😮
This video is great for me since i starded woodworking last year and I've been using pine only since its the only wood available where i live, i was a little afraid to used dowels but not anymore, thank you!
your my favourite youtuber
Lovely
I'd love more information about that dowel jig.
I make floating tenons and sometimes use biscuits. FWIW the floating tenons are absolutely the best.
I heard that if you sprinkle a tiny amount of salt on one side of the glue up, it will keep them from slipping and the tiny amount of salt doesn't affect the bond of the glue. The glue is water based and melts the salt working quickly will make it work. Salt is gritty and provides enough resistance to keep the boards from easily slipping. I've also heard glue is only needed on one side of the joint so you could glue one side of all the boards and salt all of the boards at one time, stand them all up, then clamp all at once.
Good video!
Looking at those growth rings, that pine looks similar to the crappy South African pine.
I have completed a new computer table from pine and now doing a bee hive from pine which will require better treatment for outdoors.
Thanks for this info. Very helpful. I had no idea that laminated boards were stronger!
I also confess that I didn't know that.
@Aleph Leonine What substrate do you mean? I don't understand it.
Oh WoW! Not the topic of the video, but I like the bar clamp holders you made.
Hi. I really like your videos and the way you describe how you do some of the things you do. I don't know if I am in the minority but I like watching you do some of the routine things. When you describe them different aspects of the build come out that would be omitted thinking it isn't interesting. I know it would make the video longer but I feel it is more beneficial to the viewer. Keep up the great work, i always look forward to your videos.
I have used dyes on ash and birch, with good results.
In the UK we often have no alternative to pine. Our big box stores just don't stock anything else. Only by going to a timber merchant do we usually have any options for nicer, denser woods like oak or cherry or ash, or maple if you're lucky.
One factor with finishing before assembly is that you can lose the marks showing which joints go together. This applies more so when refurbishing older furniture which may be less than square.
Before disassembly I mark the inside of the frame with a pattern of indentations using flat bladed and cross-head screwdrivers and a punch - these marks are not obscured by the finish.
More video about pinewood Sir. :) Stay safe
Nice boss😃😃😃
Love your videos. Could you possibly tell me about white oak and what place in density it may be at compared to other woods please. Thank you
Very cool and no bla bla this thing or that thing. Just let's build a table.
Great tips, with links to other parts or finishes.
What maximum size dowel can you use for 3/4 thick board?
Thank you.
Hi Colin! Great video. I really like the doweling jig you used. Do you happen to have a link to where I can purchase the same one you used?
I have worked with pine most of my life but I have never tried the dye or water based stains. The oil based stains I always use the pre-stain, makes huge difference in the end result. Wondering if it raises the grain, would it be best to apply the dye/stain then lightly sand it down before applying another coat of stain or whatever finish... poly, varnish or shellac..
Great video information as always. Also, I really like that metal 5 port dowel jig you have in this video. Would you mind if I asked you where you purchased it?
Nice video, applying a finish is always my most dreaded part. For some reason the volume was very low though. But when a commercial came on it would blast through the speakers.
WHAT???!
That’s typical for all commercials in all media.
@@Sillyturner that hasn't been my experience. The more savvy UA-camrs have a better handle on sound and mixing.
I made a six drawer chest of drawers when I lived in an apartment. Designed it around standard sizes and just used drywall screws. Held up well, now it's in the spare bedroom full of stuff (junk!). Pine is a very nice looking wood. I prefer clear finish.
I might make a little table like that out of walnut. Sorry, but I have access to walnut that isn't to expensive.
I'm very impressed and I have a question. I am using pine 1x10 pine board. My messurments a are 30 in long x 18 1/2 wide x 10 tall. I want to strengthen the box with a frame and dowl rods any ideas?
Hi Colin, do you have a link to a video on how to make a dowl jig? Thanks & love your channel
Good info but I've got a random question.
What is that watch you're wearing? The bronze looking one in the first half of the video.
When using pine a rather common problem is to have a sliver break off of the edge then the glue wells up during glue up and you have a bright yellow line to dig out or cover. With a dark finish you can get rid of his problem by gluing with dark wood. I really love it on walnut but it works with any brown stained wood.
Hi Colin
In one of your videos you had a left handed tape measure. Could you please give a link for the purchase of one ?
Great videos, really helpful.
Awesome video. What can you tell me about the dowel jig?
I did not know that 2 boards glued together are stronger the 1 board the same size. Ty for the education!
They are not only stronger but more stable, they resist warping and twisting as well. Guitar manufacturers have been doing this for decades. A good one to look up is Ibanez guitars, and just look as some pictures. They make the thinnest guitar necks in the world and they do a 7 ply usually of very hard but different woods. Guitarist take them from the desert to rainy Seattle sometimes even days apart and the neck woods don't move.
2:25 Pro tip: Keep your two pieces touching as you apply glue, rather than having to run the bottle back and forth 2x and risk it running down the gap between.
Hi Colin ! This is Vivek from India. I am new into woodworking as a hobby lately. Your videos and information you share are quite inspiring in regards. What I want to know from you ... while trying my luck with Pine wood, I see secrection of oil from the wood especially at the knots while sawing and drilling. Though I got a couple of 2×1 's to try them out as trial, for making frames for a wall hanging chisel storage shelf. I am not sure if adhesives will have a great go thru this oily and sticky surface .... Kindly guide me on this please.....
If you have sap coming out of the knots, you can use knot sealer on them. It may ruin the surface around the knot for oil finishes, so it's probably better to use when you are painting the piece. If you have sap coming out of sap pockets in the wood itself - outside the knots - I have no idea how to fix this. I have a shed built with pine construction lumber, and it leaks sap in a couple of places even 10 years later ...
This is great.
As a hobbyist, who has mainly tried mdf and plywood, but also live in a part of the EU who doesn't have very easy access to hardwood (Unless you wanna pay like 1000$ for 10cm2), I was wondering if it was even worth trying. I see that it is ;)
I like the ol steel wool and white vinegar stain. It's dirt cheap and looks great..
great vid but as a newbie, i didn't see any glue being used during assembly and since the wood was already darkened, it made me wonder how you remove any squeeze out ? or do you only apply it VERY sparingly ? or not at all ?
Hi, was glue used for both the dowel joint and pocket hole joint for the test?
Colin, been a fan of your channel for a couple of years now and always enjoy your output. You have taught me so much that I can't begin to thank you enough. I do Have one question for you though (no doubt asked many times before). The wristwatch you wear seems to be made of wood, where did you get it from (unless you made it)?
Well how did you use the router across the wood fibers. That was a topic you should have covered in this video because usually when pine wood is trimmed with a router it gets a rough splintered edge. Some advise to reverse route across fibers.