As a yoyo instructor I find that new players have this same sort of thing going on, but it goes in two directions. Some players think they have to start at the bottom and earn their way up, when in reality they could just start with a 50-100$ yoyo. It has all the same functionality as the cheaper yoyos. On the other hand, you have players who insist on spending 150-200 dollars on their first yoyo because they want to 'buy the best"(which i hear as "it will make me shoot better") when in reality they would be served equally as well by cheaper models. Unless you are competing at a national level, you don't really need more than a 50$ yoyo... Heck, the world championship has been won with a 50$ yoyo.
I had a friend who was ranked 5th in the world for his age group as a kid. I didn't believe him until I went over to his house and found yoyos everywhere. Stuck in couch cushions, on the floor, etc. He showed me some mind boggling tricks followed by the standard "yeah I suck now, I used to be a lot better."
Hi. I've been shooting for two years. I've had a bucktrail blackhawk, a samick sage, a Polaris, and a ragim black bear. I improved gradually, but found the grip a huge problem. I could only get reasonable consistency side to side, with the bow drawn back again at my thumb, not in the natural gap between finger and thumb. I decided to try a less traditional bow. So I bought a secondhand original SF axiom riser (£25 including p&p). Then a pair of secondhand core bamboo ilf limbs. A new string, new cartel button, and a new Spigarelli zt rest, and all sorted on a budget. I'm over the moon. It shoots so beautifully. Quiet, no handshock, and it fits into my hand perfectly. Thanks to this cheap stuff, I've fallen even more in love with archery. I can't even imagine anything feeling better. Thanks for all these great videos. They give us inexperienced archers a huge boost on a regular basis.
Had the bow set up at a pro shop. It performed just fine ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxQEKUoxLWwayEDZR0NKB-5limn4MBU-2L . And I would say this is a good starting now that I could pass down to my son when he is older.But the package was missing the release and a nock was missing from one arrow.Dealing with customer support was terrible. They suggested I buy a new release rather than correct their own quality control issue because it’s to expensive for the. to ship it out from China.Update: manufacturer got back to me and resolved the issue. I retract the above statement.
I was shooting from a beginner bow (wooden) for about 5 months at club until it was creeping up on me that I had to hand it back and "upgrade" to my own personal bow. I have a Mybo Wave Riser, even though it was lighter to the other ones in the shop it's still some getting used to the extra weight from wood to metal. I did research before buying and I did read it was about £320 minimum for a full kit. So I went in with a budget of £500 and came out with a bow/arrows for £420. I'm really pleased with it :D
Great video, has a beginner ( at 61 years old ) this is always going though my mind . At first l loved the compound bow as a engineer l loved the engineering of the bow the same can be said of the higher end recurve carbon/alloy bows , but after sitting down and really thinking about what l wanted to do. I have decided that the traditional wooden bow was for me l want to shoot 3D ,tree stumping , walk through the woods with friends and just have fun. I will be looking for a around ish hunting type of traditional bow that will also allow for some target shooting comps if this bow exists l will find it , the is now on . Any recommendations on a good middle/high end traditional bow's would be welcome 👍🏹
I think one of the most important considerations for a beginner is the draw weight of the bow. I just got into recurve at 68 years old. At the time I was shooting a compound at 53# so I thought I would get maybe some 46# limbs to start and posted my thoughts on Archery Talk. I was quickly told that would be way to much. Eventually I settled on 26# limbs and am glad I did. I am big on form and using back tension and if I had gotten the 46# limbs to start, there would have been no way I could have practiced effectively and focused on form - like the things I have learned on this channel. I guess too sum it up, regardless of your budget, I would suggest to get something you can comfortably draw back and hold for a few seconds. It will make learning to shoot a recurve a lot more enjoyable. Just my two cents.
I've shot the Mandarin Duck Phantom for many years and I'm very satisfied with it. Yes, the fletchings on my arrows are a bit greasy, but, you get what you pay for.
Great video as always. For anyone who wants to start archery maybe if they can borrow a bow or go some place to try one for a while. It shouldn't take long to know if you like it or not and then you can get a much better bow and set up, it don't have to be the most expensive but I feel you get what you pay for. For me a top of the line bow will feel and preform a lot better then a cheap one. Good luck with your shooting. Alan
Like 6 years ago I was driving out some old road I'd drive some evenings, and saw s bunch of archer, bright colors, tents and everything just thinking to myself how goofy! 😏 like a lot has changed in that six years! I dig archery 😁 and I also live now in the sort of place I used to drive and dream, but yeah I just never would have thought I'd love this so much..just one night, video after VIDEO and I was hooked!😊
Maybe they should ask themselves what is the main use for the bow that they’re seeking . Target shooting , hunting, bow fishing , then ask how often will they be using these bow for . As you’ve mention in another video , even though you can use target bows for hunting , it’s just not practical due to the fact of it being too large with all the add on . Plus some hunting bows are require to be a certain pound draw , just to make sure it’s strong enough to deliver a clean shot , instead of just wounding a animal . Don’t forget the bow draw pound, most beginner don’t have the strength to draw that much Great video
Can't agree more. Get a good riser but go for rented limbs until the desires draw weight is reached if you want to stay in the sports. Cheaper risers show one big difference above a certain draw weight which will affect you in the long term. At 24 to 30 lbs everything was fine. However, at 38 my old SF Premium+ slowly started bending. After every shot it even wobbled back and forth which did not feel good at all. At this point I had to upgrade. I recommend trying a variety of risers until you found one that feels right. Price is secondary. E.g. I did not feel a difference between the Hoyt Epik and the Mybo Elite - except for 200 €
I was lucky enough to get a 2nd hand Core riser with SF limbs that was sourced from members of the club by one of the coaches. Came with arrows, stand, sight, string, carbon balance bar and cost me the same as a new cheap bow. Just another example of the value of belonging to a club... if you can.
Thank you Sir im new to bow shooting and you just answer all my questions im looking at getting in to it and i wanted a bow to be my forever thank you 4 ur wisdom and knowledge i know what i want, I use to hunt red deer back home New Zealand with a 7m mag now i live in Australia the bow is going to be my thing to get into Peace out Homie
Why would be the difference between an entry level ILF and a professional one? I bought the Topoint Endeavour for training barrebow, but never tried a professional fancy one. I would love a video about that. Cheers from Brazil
NUSensei, I have a question(s) about a bow. (it was given to me in summer 2001), date of manufacture, unknown. (not marked). There are things I have found out about it. However, the info is very small. Here are the things I found out, or were obvious. It is a Remington(?) compound, and decades old(?). I don't have a picture of it, although, as soon as I do, I will send one. I have taken it to local Archery shops, but they were not forth coming with info on it. Most likely, didn't know anything about it. The overall length from end to end is 39 1/2 Inch, (3 ft, 3-1/2 in. with arms). Without arms, 17 1/4 inch, made from heavy, strong wood. The arms appear to be wood also. lengths are 16 1/2 inch (1 ft, 4-1/2 in.). Over-all weight--3 1/2 to 4 lbs. The bow itself is stained dark green, the grain shows through in some places. (Arms are stained black.) On the arm, in a few spots, the number 3 is etched in.. It is a 40 lb pull. I am left handed. This Bow appears to be right handed. I have shot it left handed, and have gotten good accuracy. I am giving this to my Grand-Daughter(14-yrs old) she is right-handed, and strong. She can pull and hold the string, with slow and controlled release. This comment is a perfect example of: "A picture is worth a 1000 words" Basic questions: What can you tell me about this Bow? IE, Age of Bow, worth$$(if any), safety, type(s) of arrows. I have watched some of your videos, very informative, clean, and simple to understand, I will continue. Thank you, for your time and expertises' Ben Levitt Butler aka: "Zencowboy." e-mail: zencowboy369@yahoo.com I am having an issue getting into my E-mail and Face-Bk. You can try, hopefully I can get this problem resolved shortly. Again, Thank You, in advance for your time and expertise's. I really like the ones about what NOT TO DO! I have found myself in them, and have corrected.
I'm sticking to a takedown recurve and its for me its about simplicity because I'm going to do hunting and I'm not a fan of complexity and I have the samick sage journey which is not in production anymore but I can use other limbs on my riser which is nice. choose a bow with the right general length because if you have long arms like me you will need a 64 inch bow since it will be more comfortable to shoot compared to the 62 inch bows.
Great video nu sensei love your content, I’m looking to enter myself as a beginner to archery, would I benefit from bow packages, or would it be better for me to buy riser, limbs, etc separate??
As a recurve beginner you will spend more money on limbs, since as you get better and strengthen your draw, you will need to get limbs with higher draw weight. So decent foam core limbs to start, but if spend $500 on limbs from start, it will be costly. Once your draw is settled, then upgrade to good quality limbs.
Are the bows using the click system truly compatible because of that (because they have to follow a certain standard)? This is something I was always wondering because logically a cheapish (because both limbs and risers are already more expensive) riser with that system would allow you to go for some cheaper limbs to get into the sport and help finding / training you for a comfortable draw weight. Of course a low draw weight is also interesting for people who can pull higher weights but I'd rather use the same riser and just swap the limbs for my needs instead of swapping (and therefor buying) an entirely different bow. Are there cheaper less layered "beginner" limbs that would easily work for even expensive risers of another manufacturer? If so this could be potentially a good video to make, and if not this could potentially a good market niche for the quality manufacturers to get into to get more people into archery itself because for people without experience this can all be a bit confusing. Edit: I know a persons height (which usually translates in arm / draw length) affects riser and limb length but I'm a big guy so I probably would go for the big sizes anyway especially since they seem to be more forgiving for beginners too.
Hello ! For years I made my own arrows with 5 inches feathers from the Gateway brand. I bought last year "Ozark Target Maxxx" feathers made for "indoor shooting". However, I use them for outdoor shooting and I do not see any problems since. Does anyone know the difference between "outdoor" and "indoor" feathers for shooting other than the thickness difference of the feather? Nice weekend to all !
NuSensei, I saw that a combination of Galaxy Crescent 25" Recurve Riser and Galaxy Bronze Star Recurve Limbs cost 160 U$D, just a little bit mor than a Samick Sage (which I have). It seems to me that those insignificant 40 dollars represent a biiiiiig difference. Im I worng? I wish I knew the Galaxy bows before to buy the Samick.
He comprado unas palas CORE Prelude, 68 - 38 en un riser de 25. ¿Estas palas tienen que utilizar únicamente cuerdas de Dacrón? ¿Soportaran otro tipo de materiales...? Muchas gracias, Rafael.
Great video. I’m having a hard time finding a good bow. Most bows I find are about $100 but they look flimsy. I ask people for help but as a women I get blown off quite a bit. Where do you get your bows? Love your videos!
NUSensei thank you! I did take a look at part 2 on your video where you talk about the beginner recurve package from hunting bow.com. I’m nervous to buy one online because I’m pretty short (5 ft 3 inches), petite, and not strong. However, I’m in a small town and don’t have good archery store selections. Any tips? I’m doing target shooting. Also, thanks for the reply!
@@arayaviolin6421 You don't need to be strong or big. A small, light bow is fine. Most bows you get will fit you. If you're looking at a beginner bow, a 62" or 66" is fine (I'm 5'4", btw). 20# is sufficient for practice.
90% are about skill, dedication and practice. If you intend to be a top performer, then yes - you need those extra 10%. It depends on the sport, but the equipment doesn't really have such an impact.
Thanks for another good Vid. I have asked the question below a few times and I know the answer is probably down to individual choice but any light you can throw would be appreciated. What about the next step from beginner. I did hear you say you coincided the metal riser to be the next step. I'm shooting a low weight (28Ib) learning bow and now have decent control at 10 and 20 meters to shoot at 30/40 mt I have to aim at the moon. I would like to buy a wood riser based bow to up my distance to 30 and 40 meters, I want to stay really basic I don't use or want to use anything but the bow. Also I don't intend to game hunt just target shoot. I was thinking to go to a 40/42 lb being a short sort of person that will give me 38/40 lb shooting weight that I think would give me a better shooting experience at the longer range. On a separate subject I made my first string yesterday and it works and feels great thanks for the tutorials. If not for you and other UA-camrs I would have no instruction whatsoever. ( by decent control I mean 5/7ins average at 10/20 Mts) I'm not aiming to be a pro just good enough to enjoy what I'm doing.
I want to keep the lighter bow complete then when I lose it moving up to the heavier bow I can revert to try to see what I'm doing wrong. The arrows I use are just right weight for the 26lb bow I think, lighter would be even harder at 30/40 mtr ? thanks for the comment .
I didn't mean lighter spine just lighter weight. For example: If you are using aluminiums you will find that lighter (but same spine stiffness) carbons will go further.
is it possible to change pounds on a bow? like lesser when you`re a beginner and make it stronger as you progress or is x-amount of pounds "stuck" to each bow?
Yes, but that's mostly true for compound bows. Recurve bows are often made with a set draw length and draw weight due to the material used. Some will allow for adjustment of how the limbs hold the weight with a couple screws just like how compound bows do, where the draw weight can be changed.
hi there , if you haven't already , could you do a psa about arrow nocks , i bought 20 new arrows and i forgot to put the nock size down and i tried them and they worked well until i realised it was too late, the nock went lose during the firing and it basically dry fired my bow and i had a few strands broke on my bow string, now i have 20 arrows i cant use until i can change the nocks.
Sorry for your experience I feel your frustration. I had to stop firing a brand new (1st ) bow because of an cheap Chinese arm guard that had metal eyelets on it that cut my string. : SUGGESTION> but an cheap digital caliper from harbor freight. So very handy at measuring inside (ID) and out side (OD) diameter on so many things. Used mine for finding my arrow and nock size, plus field point size.
Hi, I have a 12 year old daughter who seems to love archery, I wasted much money on buying her a compound bow which was easy to draw but is way under power, can you suggest me what should be my next move? do you think I made the wrong choice in terms of sports?
Hi can i ask i am a beginner adult i am 5'9 which bow would be ok for me Both Target bows bow lengh 56'' Bow riser 17'' Brase hight 7.5 Max draw lengh I have measured my draw lengh is 26 inch Or would i be better with A 23 inch riser bow size 68 Brase hight 8.1 Draw weight 30lbs The bow im thinking of is a Junxing f158 Can you give me advice
i just got an OMP explorer 2.0 for $77CAD ima looking to get olympic style bow after i get some practice currently looking at WNS motive FX and carbon foam limbs (380+280CAD) and spend money on all the accessories(WS600 sight and stablizer, shibuya rest and plunger) or would u recommend me too jump into CXT+limbs ($1000+CAD) and shoot it like barebow till i have enough money for accessories.
I prefer buy a low price bow because i dont have to go to championships or something, i just want hit a target to 30 or 40 meters on my backyard just for fun, then i can improve my instictive shot
Hi NuSensei, I have a question. My 9 year old son is shooting for about a year with the clubs wooden 12# recurve (something like a polaris). I'm looking to buy him a bow for Christmas since he wants to keep doing it. I'm a traditional archer myself, but i find it hard to find olympic style target recurve gear for kids. The shortest ILF riser I can find is a Samick Priviledge 23". Together with the 16# Priviledge limbs, this would make a 64" bow. Which sounds awfully large. My kid is only 130cm (4.2ft) tall, with a drawlength of 55cm (21"). So, isnt this bow too large for him ? Any alternatives that've missed? I'm looking to spend around 300euro. Thanks!
Here is a 21" hoyt riser together with short limbs it would be 62" www.merlinarchery.co.uk/hoyt-excel-recurve-riser-right-handed-21.html Other than wooden risers I'm not sure if you'll find shorter but I'm just a noob myself so hopefully NUSensei will come along with some bow shaped wisdom!
Hoyt uses ILF & their own formula system, the excel is ILF. EDIT: They also do a formula excel but that one is listed as ILF. So if you do go that route best to mail supplier just to double check.
Shooting power seems to be of very little importance to you. I bought my hunting bow from Amazon with one thing in mind; that whatever I'm going to shoot should be taken down with one arrow only.
I don't understand why anyone would buy a cheap beginner bow set, when you can get an used top or mid range rig for the same price. The way better used bow is something you can tune properly and will be much better experience overall. And when you want to upgrade your gear, you get most or all of you money back by selling the used top or midrange gear.
Dont go with the phantom hunter by manderin duck go with the black hunter its way better no reverberation very pretty and very nice to shoot. Nice wood grain not that cheap plastic crap.
Except that on the "pro" bows a beginner may grow into the sport and find he wished he got bow with foo instead of a bow with bar. And since used bows are virtually worthless youre just throwing money away
AKA it's all about your skill the bo means jack diddly squat as long as it's decent it's mostly up to you if you know you're going to stick with it you might as well get top of the line because you're only ever going to work up to being better although personally I think they're way overpriced I can outshoot some dumb ass with the top-of-the-line bullshit what's a $9 Bo I need from PVC
I was told the difference between the beginner and professional bow is the how hard the strength of pull is ...a beginner bow uses about 40 lbs of pressure so its easier to pull back a professional bow is much harder to pull the arrow , i shot a lot of beginner bows and it was just way to easy for me to knock the arrow , tried a more intermediate bow and i couldn't even pull the arrow all the way .
This is not an accurate definition. This is simply draw weight, which is determined by the limbs. You can get a top-level riser with light limbs, and you can get cheaper entry-level bows in heavy draw weights.
As a yoyo instructor I find that new players have this same sort of thing going on, but it goes in two directions. Some players think they have to start at the bottom and earn their way up, when in reality they could just start with a 50-100$ yoyo. It has all the same functionality as the cheaper yoyos. On the other hand, you have players who insist on spending 150-200 dollars on their first yoyo because they want to 'buy the best"(which i hear as "it will make me shoot better") when in reality they would be served equally as well by cheaper models. Unless you are competing at a national level, you don't really need more than a 50$ yoyo... Heck, the world championship has been won with a 50$ yoyo.
I had a friend who was ranked 5th in the world for his age group as a kid. I didn't believe him until I went over to his house and found yoyos everywhere. Stuck in couch cushions, on the floor, etc. He showed me some mind boggling tricks followed by the standard "yeah I suck now, I used to be a lot better."
Dude you just made me miss my X Brain yoyo
Yo-yo 😂😂
Hi. I've been shooting for two years. I've had a bucktrail blackhawk, a samick sage, a Polaris, and a ragim black bear. I improved gradually, but found the grip a huge problem. I could only get reasonable consistency side to side, with the bow drawn back again at my thumb, not in the natural gap between finger and thumb. I decided to try a less traditional bow. So I bought a secondhand original SF axiom riser (£25 including p&p). Then a pair of secondhand core bamboo ilf limbs. A new string, new cartel button, and a new Spigarelli zt rest, and all sorted on a budget.
I'm over the moon. It shoots so beautifully. Quiet, no handshock, and it fits into my hand perfectly. Thanks to this cheap stuff, I've fallen even more in love with archery. I can't even imagine anything feeling better.
Thanks for all these great videos. They give us inexperienced archers a huge boost on a regular basis.
Had the bow set up at a pro shop. It performed just fine ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxQEKUoxLWwayEDZR0NKB-5limn4MBU-2L . And I would say this is a good starting now that I could pass down to my son when he is older.But the package was missing the release and a nock was missing from one arrow.Dealing with customer support was terrible. They suggested I buy a new release rather than correct their own quality control issue because it’s to expensive for the. to ship it out from China.Update: manufacturer got back to me and resolved the issue. I retract the above statement.
That's not the kind of bow I would want to start on unless I planned to hunt with it. As a target archer, I'd never want a compound.
I was actually playing around with the idea of getting into archery. Thanks Nu! Lobe your WT content!
Thank you so much for this great catalog of videos, they are so useful. Your presentation is very professional. (Viewer from the UK)
Good advise, lots of common sense. Thanks for sharing. John
I was shooting from a beginner bow (wooden) for about 5 months at club until it was creeping up on me that I had to hand it back and "upgrade" to my own personal bow. I have a Mybo Wave Riser, even though it was lighter to the other ones in the shop it's still some getting used to the extra weight from wood to metal. I did research before buying and I did read it was about £320 minimum for a full kit. So I went in with a budget of £500 and came out with a bow/arrows for £420. I'm really pleased with it :D
Great video, has a beginner ( at 61 years old ) this is always going though my mind . At first l loved the compound bow as a engineer l loved the engineering of the bow the same can be said of the higher end recurve carbon/alloy bows , but after sitting down and really thinking about what l wanted to do. I have decided that the traditional wooden bow was for me l want to shoot 3D ,tree stumping , walk through the woods with friends and just have fun. I will be looking for a around ish hunting type of traditional bow that will also allow for some target shooting comps if this bow exists l will find it , the is now on . Any recommendations on a good middle/high end traditional bow's would be welcome 👍🏹
i saw a vid of 3d shooting whats geting me back in to bows
I think one of the most important considerations for a beginner is the draw weight of the bow. I just got into recurve at 68 years old. At the time I was shooting a compound at 53# so I thought I would get maybe some 46# limbs to start and posted my thoughts on Archery Talk. I was quickly told that would be way to much. Eventually I settled on 26# limbs and am glad I did. I am big on form and using back tension and if I had gotten the 46# limbs to start, there would have been no way I could have practiced effectively and focused on form - like the things I have learned on this channel.
I guess too sum it up, regardless of your budget, I would suggest to get something you can comfortably draw back and hold for a few seconds. It will make learning to shoot a recurve a lot more enjoyable. Just my two cents.
I've shot the Mandarin Duck Phantom for many years and I'm very satisfied with it.
Yes, the fletchings on my arrows are a bit greasy, but, you get what you pay for.
Great video as always. For anyone who wants to start archery maybe if they can borrow a bow or go some place to try one for a while. It shouldn't take long to know if you like it or not and then you can get a much better bow and set up, it don't have to be the most expensive but I feel you get what you pay for. For me a top of the line bow will feel and preform a lot better then a cheap one. Good luck with your shooting. Alan
Like 6 years ago I was driving out some old road I'd drive some evenings, and saw s bunch of archer, bright colors, tents and everything just thinking to myself how goofy! 😏 like a lot has changed in that six years!
I dig archery 😁 and I also live now in the sort of place I used to drive and dream, but yeah I just never would have thought I'd love this so much..just one night, video after VIDEO and I was hooked!😊
I appreciate the common sense explanation and yes I found the video helpful.
Maybe they should ask themselves what is the main use for the bow that they’re seeking .
Target shooting , hunting, bow fishing , then ask how often will they be using these bow for .
As you’ve mention in another video , even though you can use target bows for hunting , it’s just not practical due to the fact of it being too large with all the add on .
Plus some hunting bows are require to be a certain pound draw , just to make sure it’s strong enough to deliver a clean shot , instead of just wounding a animal .
Don’t forget the bow draw pound, most beginner don’t have the strength to draw that much
Great video
Wow I just learned so much thank you ❤
Can't agree more.
Get a good riser but go for rented limbs until the desires draw weight is reached if you want to stay in the sports.
Cheaper risers show one big difference above a certain draw weight which will affect you in the long term.
At 24 to 30 lbs everything was fine. However, at 38 my old SF Premium+ slowly started bending. After every shot it even wobbled back and forth which did not feel good at all.
At this point I had to upgrade.
I recommend trying a variety of risers until you found one that feels right. Price is secondary.
E.g. I did not feel a difference between the Hoyt Epik and the Mybo Elite - except for 200 €
I was lucky enough to get a 2nd hand Core riser with SF limbs that was sourced from members of the club by one of the coaches. Came with arrows, stand, sight, string, carbon balance bar and cost me the same as a new cheap bow. Just another example of the value of belonging to a club... if you can.
Get the best that I can afford, that's how I start and I feel so lucky.
A hundred dollars is alot to me, however I have just ordered a toparchary 50 lb taketown bow to replace my PVC bow. Sooooo anxious.
Thank you Sir im new to bow shooting and you just answer all my questions im looking at getting in to it and i wanted a bow to be my forever thank you 4 ur wisdom and knowledge i know what i want, I use to hunt red deer back home New Zealand with a 7m mag now i live in Australia the bow is going to be my thing to get into Peace out Homie
Very educational. Thanks!
Wise word's, and well said, thank you!!!
Perfect video
Why would be the difference between an entry level ILF and a professional one?
I bought the Topoint Endeavour for training barrebow, but never tried a professional fancy one.
I would love a video about that.
Cheers from Brazil
NUSensei, I have a question(s) about a bow. (it was given to me in summer 2001), date of manufacture, unknown. (not marked). There are things I have found out about it. However, the info is very small. Here are the things I found out, or were obvious. It is a Remington(?) compound, and decades old(?).
I don't have a picture of it, although, as soon as I do, I will send one. I have taken it to local Archery shops, but they were not forth coming with info on it. Most likely, didn't know anything about it. The overall length from end to end is 39 1/2 Inch, (3 ft, 3-1/2 in. with arms). Without arms, 17 1/4 inch, made from heavy, strong wood. The arms appear to be wood also. lengths are 16 1/2 inch (1 ft, 4-1/2 in.). Over-all weight--3 1/2 to 4 lbs.
The bow itself is stained dark green, the grain shows through in some places. (Arms are stained black.) On the arm, in a few spots, the number 3 is etched in.. It is a 40 lb pull.
I am left handed. This Bow appears to be right handed. I have shot it left handed, and have gotten good accuracy. I am giving this to my Grand-Daughter(14-yrs old) she is right-handed, and strong. She can pull and hold the string, with slow and controlled release.
This comment is a perfect example of: "A picture is worth a 1000 words"
Basic questions: What can you tell me about this Bow? IE, Age of Bow, worth$$(if any), safety, type(s) of arrows. I have watched some of your videos, very informative, clean, and simple to understand, I will continue.
Thank you, for your time and expertises'
Ben Levitt Butler aka: "Zencowboy."
e-mail: zencowboy369@yahoo.com I am having an issue getting into my E-mail and Face-Bk. You can try, hopefully I can get this problem resolved shortly.
Again, Thank You, in advance for your time and expertise's. I really like the ones about what NOT TO DO! I have found myself in them, and have corrected.
Can you do a video on good cheap practice arrows?
I'm sticking to a takedown recurve and its for me its about simplicity because I'm going to do hunting and I'm not a fan of complexity and I have the samick sage journey which is not in production anymore but I can use other limbs on my riser which is nice. choose a bow with the right general length because if you have long arms like me you will need a 64 inch bow since it will be more comfortable to shoot compared to the 62 inch bows.
Great video nu sensei love your content, I’m looking to enter myself as a beginner to archery, would I benefit from bow packages, or would it be better for me to buy riser, limbs, etc separate??
If it's your first time buying a bow then buy a set everyone would recommend that😀
As a recurve beginner you will spend more money on limbs, since as you get better and strengthen your draw, you will need to get limbs with higher draw weight. So decent foam core limbs to start, but if spend $500 on limbs from start, it will be costly. Once your draw is settled, then upgrade to good quality limbs.
Are the bows using the click system truly compatible because of that (because they have to follow a certain standard)?
This is something I was always wondering because logically a cheapish (because both limbs and risers are already more expensive) riser with that system would allow you to go for some cheaper limbs to get into the sport and help finding / training you for a comfortable draw weight. Of course a low draw weight is also interesting for people who can pull higher weights but I'd rather use the same riser and just swap the limbs for my needs instead of swapping (and therefor buying) an entirely different bow.
Are there cheaper less layered "beginner" limbs that would easily work for even expensive risers of another manufacturer?
If so this could be potentially a good video to make, and if not this could potentially a good market niche for the quality manufacturers to get into to get more people into archery itself because for people without experience this can all be a bit confusing.
Edit:
I know a persons height (which usually translates in arm / draw length) affects riser and limb length but I'm a big guy so I probably would go for the big sizes anyway especially since they seem to be more forgiving for beginners too.
New video quality is great mate
Would you recommend an ILF bow a beginner can grow with and later replace with stronger limbs?
I bought the phantom because I just got done spending 800 on a 590a1 mariner and didn't feel like spending a crap ton of money lol.
what do you call those stabilizer like things on top and bottom of the advanced bow?
Hi, what's your opinion about the WNS DELTS LX riser as a barebow ?
Hello !
For years I made my own arrows with 5 inches feathers from the Gateway brand. I bought last year "Ozark Target Maxxx" feathers made for "indoor shooting". However, I use them for outdoor shooting and I do not see any problems since.
Does anyone know the difference between "outdoor" and "indoor" feathers for shooting other than the thickness difference of the feather?
Nice weekend to all !
NuSensei, I saw that a combination of Galaxy Crescent 25" Recurve Riser and Galaxy Bronze Star Recurve Limbs cost 160 U$D, just a little bit mor than a Samick Sage (which I have). It seems to me that those insignificant 40 dollars represent a biiiiiig difference. Im I worng? I wish I knew the Galaxy bows before to buy the Samick.
He comprado unas palas CORE Prelude, 68 - 38 en un riser de 25. ¿Estas palas tienen que utilizar únicamente cuerdas de Dacrón? ¿Soportaran otro tipo de materiales...? Muchas gracias, Rafael.
Great video. I’m having a hard time finding a good bow. Most bows I find are about $100 but they look flimsy. I ask people for help but as a women I get blown off quite a bit. Where do you get your bows? Love your videos!
I recommend any archery retailer in your country. I source my bows from different retailers depending on what kind of bow I specifically want.
NUSensei thank you! I did take a look at part 2 on your video where you talk about the beginner recurve package from hunting bow.com. I’m nervous to buy one online because I’m pretty short (5 ft 3 inches), petite, and not strong. However, I’m in a small town and don’t have good archery store selections. Any tips? I’m doing target shooting. Also, thanks for the reply!
@@arayaviolin6421 You don't need to be strong or big. A small, light bow is fine. Most bows you get will fit you. If you're looking at a beginner bow, a 62" or 66" is fine (I'm 5'4", btw). 20# is sufficient for practice.
NUSensei thanks a lot! I appreciate the reply!
90% are about skill, dedication and practice. If you intend to be a top performer, then yes - you need those extra 10%. It depends on the sport, but the equipment doesn't really have such an impact.
Thanks for another good Vid.
I have asked the question below a few times and I know the answer is probably down to individual choice but any light you can throw would be appreciated.
What about the next step from beginner. I did hear you say you coincided the metal riser to be the next step.
I'm shooting a low weight (28Ib) learning bow and now have decent control at 10 and 20 meters to shoot at 30/40 mt I have to aim at the moon.
I would like to buy a wood riser based bow to up my distance to 30 and 40 meters, I want to stay really basic I don't use or want to use anything but the bow. Also I don't intend to game hunt just target shoot. I was thinking to go to a 40/42 lb being a short sort of person that will give me 38/40 lb shooting weight that I think would give me a better shooting experience at the longer range.
On a separate subject I made my first string yesterday and it works and feels great thanks for the tutorials. If not for you and other UA-camrs I would have no instruction whatsoever.
( by decent control I mean 5/7ins average at 10/20 Mts) I'm not aiming to be a pro just good enough to enjoy what I'm doing.
I would assume heavier limbs or lighter arrows?
I want to keep the lighter bow complete then when I lose it moving up to the heavier bow I can revert to try to see what I'm doing wrong. The arrows I use are just right weight for the 26lb bow I think, lighter would be even harder at 30/40 mtr ? thanks for the comment .
I didn't mean lighter spine just lighter weight. For example: If you are using aluminiums you will find that lighter (but same spine stiffness) carbons will go further.
Ha thanks.
I'm on a budget so I use Easton Jazz XX75 1716 and 1816 its going to be some time before I spend more on arrows :)
lol me too except I use 1916's for 32# limbs (34# on fingers).
"More functions"
It's a bow, not a smartphone. It shoots arrows. That's all it does. :/
Thats wierd logic? What more funtions than a camera and working software can a phone have?
Correct 💯
is it possible to change pounds on a bow? like lesser when you`re a beginner and make it stronger as you progress or is x-amount of pounds "stuck" to each bow?
Yes, but that's mostly true for compound bows. Recurve bows are often made with a set draw length and draw weight due to the material used. Some will allow for adjustment of how the limbs hold the weight with a couple screws just like how compound bows do, where the draw weight can be changed.
what additional equipment would you use for a Survival Archery System bow, if you were going to be going into the bush?
Good. I'm Hj Rosdi from Malaysia
hi there , if you haven't already , could you do a psa about arrow nocks , i bought 20 new arrows and i forgot to put the nock size down and i tried them and they worked well until i realised it was too late, the nock went lose during the firing and it basically dry fired my bow and i had a few strands broke on my bow string, now i have 20 arrows i cant use until i can change the nocks.
Sorry for your experience I feel your frustration. I had to stop firing a brand new (1st ) bow because of an cheap Chinese arm guard that had metal eyelets on it that cut my string. : SUGGESTION> but an cheap digital caliper from harbor freight. So very handy at measuring inside (ID) and out side (OD) diameter on so many things. Used mine for finding my arrow and nock size, plus field point size.
Hi, I have a 12 year old daughter who seems to love archery, I wasted much money on buying her a compound bow which was easy to draw but is way under power, can you suggest me what should be my next move? do you think I made the wrong choice in terms of sports?
A cheap trad bow is better for a kid
Ohayo nu sensei do junxing brand nice for beginners?
It's good and affordable.
What if beginners make mistakes that damage the bow?
Bows can't be damaged unless purposefully mishandled.
@@NUSensei Thank you for the confidence Sensei
Can I use topoint r2 #38 for competition?
Hi can i ask i am a beginner adult i am 5'9 which bow would be ok for me
Both Target bows
bow lengh 56''
Bow riser 17''
Brase hight 7.5
Max draw lengh
I have measured my draw lengh is 26 inch
Or would i be better with
A 23 inch riser
bow size 68
Brase hight 8.1
Draw weight 30lbs
The bow im thinking of is a
Junxing f158
Can you give me advice
and here I am with my Vixion Dragon
The main difference is the price of the unit. Why spend thousands of dollars if you don't know if you'll like archery?
Is the win and win winex II still a great bow to start off with and grow with or should I try others instead?
Sure, the Winex is still a good bow for beginners.
Thanks is there any that are better in the $500 riser range or is that still the Best Buy are that price point.
Did you change your camera?
yes he did he got an even better camera recently
i just got an OMP explorer 2.0 for $77CAD
ima looking to get olympic style bow after i get some practice
currently looking at WNS motive FX and carbon foam limbs (380+280CAD) and spend money on all the accessories(WS600 sight and stablizer, shibuya rest and plunger)
or would u recommend me too jump into CXT+limbs ($1000+CAD) and shoot it like barebow till i have enough money for accessories.
I want buy a good bow to start and have fun can u recomend some web site to buy in eu?
I prefer buy a low price bow because i dont have to go to championships or something, i just want hit a target to 30 or 40 meters on my backyard just for fun, then i can improve my instictive shot
wy the hell arrows are so expensive?
best bow options under $100 usd?
Hi NuSensei,
I have a question. My 9 year old son is shooting for about a year with the clubs wooden 12# recurve (something like a polaris).
I'm looking to buy him a bow for Christmas since he wants to keep doing it. I'm a traditional archer myself, but i find it hard to find olympic style target recurve gear for kids. The shortest ILF riser I can find is a Samick Priviledge 23". Together with the 16# Priviledge limbs, this would make a 64" bow. Which sounds awfully large.
My kid is only 130cm (4.2ft) tall, with a drawlength of 55cm (21"). So, isnt this bow too large for him ?
Any alternatives that've missed? I'm looking to spend around 300euro.
Thanks!
Here is a 21" hoyt riser together with short limbs it would be 62"
www.merlinarchery.co.uk/hoyt-excel-recurve-riser-right-handed-21.html
Other than wooden risers I'm not sure if you'll find shorter but I'm just a noob myself so hopefully NUSensei will come along with some bow shaped wisdom!
Thanks, that is indeed an option. Just not sure if Hoyt uses the ILF limb system, i believe they have their own.
Hoyt uses ILF & their own formula system, the excel is ILF.
EDIT: They also do a formula excel but that one is listed as ILF. So if you do go that route best to mail supplier just to double check.
I've found a new product that is available end of this year, the WNS Axiom Alpha 21" riser
hmm, good point.. too bad i already ordered it. he shoots 18# at the club, so i took the same draw weight.
I think the "slide and click" is kind of misleading lol
🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌👍👍👍👍👍👍😀😀😀😀😀😀
Do you know of any good bows for under $100
Mandarin Duck bows, but it depends on what you're looking for.
Samick sage? Bro.. you ever hear of PVC pipe?
Cause my beginner budget is kinda PVC.
Not much of an option :')
Shooting power seems to be of very little importance to you. I bought my hunting bow from Amazon with one thing in mind; that whatever I'm going to shoot should be taken down with one arrow only.
It's because he's a target shooter first which doesn't need high poundages unlike hunting that requires at least 50lbs draw to takedown a game.
I don't understand why anyone would buy a cheap beginner bow set, when you can get an used top or mid range rig for the same price. The way better used bow is something you can tune properly and will be much better experience overall. And when you want to upgrade your gear, you get most or all of you money back by selling the used top or midrange gear.
I'm just about to put together the review for the Topoint. It's...less than stellar.
Easton recurve bow
sir, i think that is a riser yet and not a bow
In an emergency, (a broken/twisted limb) you can use a metal riser as an hunting/throwing stick for small game.
Dont go with the phantom hunter by manderin duck go with the black hunter its way better no reverberation very pretty and very nice to shoot. Nice wood grain not that cheap plastic crap.
Except that on the "pro" bows a beginner may grow into the sport and find he wished he got bow with foo instead of a bow with bar. And since used bows are virtually worthless youre just throwing money away
AKA it's all about your skill the bo means jack diddly squat as long as it's decent it's mostly up to you if you know you're going to stick with it you might as well get top of the line because you're only ever going to work up to being better although personally I think they're way overpriced I can outshoot some dumb ass with the top-of-the-line bullshit what's a $9 Bo I need from PVC
I was told the difference between the beginner and professional bow is the how hard the strength of pull is ...a beginner bow uses about 40 lbs of pressure so its easier to pull back a professional bow is much harder to pull the arrow , i shot a lot of beginner bows and it was just way to easy for me to knock the arrow , tried a more intermediate bow and i couldn't even pull the arrow all the way .
This is not an accurate definition. This is simply draw weight, which is determined by the limbs. You can get a top-level riser with light limbs, and you can get cheaper entry-level bows in heavy draw weights.
China#1
Show us your skill a little bit and stop talking. God have mercy!
Try having an attention span lol