Hi Rob - Great information as usually! Couple of questions for you: 1. If you are using SIP panels for both the roof and the walls, how do you tie in the two together? 2. If the home is a timber frame structure and the ceiling will be tongue and groove pine, how do you lock the cams on the roof SIP panels when you cannot access them from underneath (because of the tongue and groove ceiling)? 3. How do the electrical chases work from panel-to-panel? In other words, when you are setting each panel up and there is a chase running left to right, do you have to ensure the electrical chases line up between the two panels when you set each panel? Hopefully that makes sense. Love the content. Please keep posting!
Thanks for the questions. 1. Depends. :) We have an assembly manual that details different ways of doing this. Several factors involved that doesn't really allow a straight forward answer, sorry. 2. Often times roof panels do not have cam-locks. However, when they do, we can also manufacture the cam-lock access holes to be on the exterior. Once turned and in place, a little shot of foam and a piece of ZIP tape takes care of it. 3. Chases always run up and down, so there's a bit more wiring to this "looping" install. Of course, this only applies to your exterior walls, so it's typically not a big ordeal. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
What’s the tallest wall section you guys make? Could a two story house be a single panel tall and then the second floor added after, balloon framing style basically? Seems like that would be the least thermal bridging.
Generally we're going to go up to 12' max. Even when stacking two panels, the thermal bridging on our SIP home is just a small fraction of a traditional stick frame. That said, we do have clients hang their second floor joists inside the envelope, and if you're in a cold weather climate that's a particularly good idea. Good thinking... and thanks for the question!
Hi Rob - Great information as usually! Couple of questions for you:
1. If you are using SIP panels for both the roof and the walls, how do you tie in the two together?
2. If the home is a timber frame structure and the ceiling will be tongue and groove pine, how do you lock the cams on the roof SIP panels when you cannot access them from underneath (because of the tongue and groove ceiling)?
3. How do the electrical chases work from panel-to-panel? In other words, when you are setting each panel up and there is a chase running left to right, do you have to ensure the electrical chases line up between the two panels when you set each panel? Hopefully that makes sense.
Love the content. Please keep posting!
Thanks for the questions.
1. Depends. :) We have an assembly manual that details different ways of doing this. Several factors involved that doesn't really allow a straight forward answer, sorry.
2. Often times roof panels do not have cam-locks. However, when they do, we can also manufacture the cam-lock access holes to be on the exterior. Once turned and in place, a little shot of foam and a piece of ZIP tape takes care of it.
3. Chases always run up and down, so there's a bit more wiring to this "looping" install. Of course, this only applies to your exterior walls, so it's typically not a big ordeal.
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Rob. Just what I was looking for.
Our pleaseure!
What’s the tallest wall section you guys make? Could a two story house be a single panel tall and then the second floor added after, balloon framing style basically? Seems like that would be the least thermal bridging.
Generally we're going to go up to 12' max. Even when stacking two panels, the thermal bridging on our SIP home is just a small fraction of a traditional stick frame. That said, we do have clients hang their second floor joists inside the envelope, and if you're in a cold weather climate that's a particularly good idea. Good thinking... and thanks for the question!
Hi Rob questions it is posible to do two floor house with a third one as a roof terrace? Thank you