I know this is unrelated, but since you kind of mentioned it if anyone ever has trouble taking off a crank bolt, especially if they're doing Hondas get the Lyle heavy mass socket. I couldn't get them off with my 750 foot pound impact wrench I couldn't get them off with 6-ft breaker bars and me and two buddies cranking on it. All kinds of stuff and I put the heavy mask socket on there and I didn't even have my 750 turned up all the way and it just spun it off like it was nothing in 2 seconds
I’ve as well never yet “fingers crossed” had any lifter issues. In fact I’ve had about 10-15 customers come to me saying they were told they had lifter tick but on every one of them it was the exhaust leaking out the back of the exhaust manifolds and sounded like a tick
Being in the process of doing a rear main seal on my 4wd 5.3 in the driveway I think the rear cover is the dumbest thing ever. The gasket got brittle and failed after 160k miles. The round seal was fine. the oil pickup o-ring is dumb.
99% of engines do their job without modification, not worth a factory change. Some types of engines don't have keys / pins for the cam drive, this allows for accurate cam timing setup at the factory.
@@richardholdener1727 yeah, but say you have 5% difference in airflow between your weakest and strongest cylinder. The weakest cylinder won’t back its injector off 5%. A carbureted engine will just ingest 5% less air and fuel. That’s what I meant. AFR
@@michaeloboyle8798not true. LS, SBC, and all cross plane crank V8s will have a leaner cylinder. I believe it's cylinder 7 for the LS. This has to do with the firing order and the exhaust pulses. You can lessen it but never get rid of it whether you're fuel injecting or carbureted. Not only that you can tune per cylinder with aftermarket high-end ECUs.
@@doomerhumor5479 why would the air/fuel ratio be different on one cylinder with a carb? I feel like you’d get less air and less fuel or more air and fuel.
@@michaeloboyle8798 because the intake and exhaust pulses interfere. All cross plane cranks will fire twice on the same side once during every 4-stroke cycle. This will always make 1 cylinder a little off from the rest. The only way to "fix" it is to have a carb per cylinder with velocity stacks and "tune" the header length as well. There is channels out there that use 3D models to explain this better.
@@richardholdener1727 Unless you still have the factory ones (especially DOD lifters) - then number 1 priority is getting the factory lifters out of the block and into the recycle bin. I don't use any lifters with plastic lifter trays any more - had too many plastic trays fail and let the lifter spin. I only like to use link bar lifters these days - the Gaterman GP1009 are turning out to be a pretty good setup for $500 or less
Removing the heads to change out the Chinese lifters tops my list!
I know this is unrelated, but since you kind of mentioned it if anyone ever has trouble taking off a crank bolt, especially if they're doing Hondas get the Lyle heavy mass socket. I couldn't get them off with my 750 foot pound impact wrench I couldn't get them off with 6-ft breaker bars and me and two buddies cranking on it. All kinds of stuff and I put the heavy mask socket on there and I didn't even have my 750 turned up all the way and it just spun it off like it was nothing in 2 seconds
Just have the machine shop cut the crank for a key!
I’ve as well never yet “fingers crossed” had any lifter issues. In fact I’ve had about 10-15 customers come to me saying they were told they had lifter tick but on every one of them it was the exhaust leaking out the back of the exhaust manifolds and sounded like a tick
Some stock vehicles have traction control and other things will pull timing to the point RPM drops, potentially a lot.
Drill and dowel . That’s what you do
I would think drilling 3 divots and putting 3 set screws in would be easy and should work if done right.
Being in the process of doing a rear main seal on my 4wd 5.3 in the driveway I think the rear cover is the dumbest thing ever. The gasket got brittle and failed after 160k miles. The round seal was fine. the oil pickup o-ring is dumb.
Just take out a mortgage and buy the best LS ever...SML
I'd rather have a BBC crank snout on LS cranks from the factory, rather than a key, since I can do that myself.
99% of engines do their job without modification, not worth a factory change. Some types of engines don't have keys / pins for the cam drive, this allows for accurate cam timing setup at the factory.
I had to do that to mine LS
Bro ,you need to challenge Donald Trump to a dance off
Key key splines
Carburetor tends to give you even air/fuel in all cylinders @22:20
a carb doesn't determine that-the intake does
@@richardholdener1727 yeah, but say you have 5% difference in airflow between your weakest and strongest cylinder. The weakest cylinder won’t back its injector off 5%. A carbureted engine will just ingest 5% less air and fuel. That’s what I meant. AFR
@@michaeloboyle8798not true. LS, SBC, and all cross plane crank V8s will have a leaner cylinder. I believe it's cylinder 7 for the LS. This has to do with the firing order and the exhaust pulses. You can lessen it but never get rid of it whether you're fuel injecting or carbureted. Not only that you can tune per cylinder with aftermarket high-end ECUs.
@@doomerhumor5479 why would the air/fuel ratio be different on one cylinder with a carb? I feel like you’d get less air and less fuel or more air and fuel.
@@michaeloboyle8798 because the intake and exhaust pulses interfere. All cross plane cranks will fire twice on the same side once during every 4-stroke cycle. This will always make 1 cylinder a little off from the rest. The only way to "fix" it is to have a carb per cylinder with velocity stacks and "tune" the header length as well. There is channels out there that use 3D models to explain this better.
Fix your truck and do a video on it. Then change the cam and do video lol
For me the dumbest part of the LS is the inability to change lifters without having to remove the heads....what a bull$hit design this is....
saved by the fact you don't need to remove lifters for a cam swap (better idea)
@@richardholdener1727 Unless you still have the factory ones (especially DOD lifters) - then number 1 priority is getting the factory lifters out of the block and into the recycle bin. I don't use any lifters with plastic lifter trays any more - had too many plastic trays fail and let the lifter spin. I only like to use link bar lifters these days - the Gaterman GP1009 are turning out to be a pretty good setup for $500 or less