How To Set Up A Japanese Plane, 16 micron Shavings!
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- Опубліковано 24 жов 2017
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Well I just got back from Japan a couple weeks ago and it's time to set up and sharpen my new Funahiro block plane. Here is the process that I use.
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Wow, incredible knowledge in my opinion! My great grandfather had one of these type of plane and I've inherited it, but he was not around to show me how to use it, and I have never met anyone who could. Now I'll be able to rehabilitate his old tool and make use of it myself, thank you very much! You can't imagine the gift this is to me!
It is so freaking awesome to see how much appreciation and joy you derive from those tools. I can relate.
Thank you for sharing your trip to Japan. I to have a love and appreciation of Japanese woodworking. I have been trying to study the many amazing jointery technics they use in furniture building. Thank you for sharing!
Just got given a brand new kanna, looks the same as yours, by an old Japanese carpenter who bought it years ago and never used it. This video was perfect for me. I got some tips off the old guy, but you broke it down perfectly for me. Thanks very much!
Your passion for your job is incredible. Its a dream to follow your work.
Great video, I tried to blow the dust of your bench about 3 times though. I feel like you have graduated to the highest level of carpentry and in doing so the highest level of appreciation for the craft. Congratulations on 16 microns and thank you for the inspiration to keep honing my own skills.
Work smooth-
You should get Alec Steele to make the blades for this style of plane and you make the dye. Then see how it stacks up against the Japanese plane. Would make for some great videos
That was so enjoyable. Watching and learning about the sharpening process is fascinating. Glad you had a great time in Japan. I’ve always wanted to go.
I love how you've taken you O.C.D. and made it work for you in a positive manner. Mine just has me turning the lights on and off a bunch of times lol!
I can't get enough of the sound that plane makes as it slices through the wood!
Appreciate the insight into why these tools are built the way they are...thanks Samurai!
Update, 20 min later and after switching to my biggest wood mallet the blade finally popped loose!
Thanks Samurai! Going to use this to finally dial in my Kanna!
Just got my first Japanese chisel the other day. Love the feel and cuts through wood like butter.And dont worry about price. If its what you want who cares.
Just don't ever drop the sucker.
I celebrate with you the 1/2 million subscribers. Thank you for the time to record.
Excellent video - a very satisfying way to pass my lunch break and get rid of the stress of work. Keep them coming
Same here .. definetly three thumbs up. Greets from Berlin.
Awesome video. Love the detailed explanation
All of your explanations are great 👍
Hey Jesse, Ive found a lot of success and a much cleaner, shinier, mirror-ier finish on the blade when each stone, chisel and your hands are cleaned thoroughly between the grits. I even use a different rag for each different stone. It's the tiny particles from the lower grit stones that are transferring over to the higher grit stones and leaving scratch marks. I haven't gone as far as to measure the microns of my shavings, but the polish is much much better than before I became obsessive with cleaning between stones. I learnt from another UA-camr called Sumokun, he's unreal. Anyways best of luck! Hope you get down to the 5 micron goal 😂
Really appreciate this instruction, very nice. Planning on getting a Japanese plane very soon.
Wood cell thickness is around 20 microns, so your basically shaving one layer of cells! Well done, Samurai
Mindblowing.
Awesome video Jesse!
Looking forward to the coffee table and backyard update(s).
Thanks. Looks radical, the sole touching only here and there, but there's no risk to establishing flatness in the work, indeed joining a panel, shooting the edges, but I speak from the sofa. Really must tune my plane, but not at midnight.
500000 subs!!!!! congratulations!!!!!!! i love your videos! watching it since the very beginning.
Those japanese planes are so cool, one of these days i'll get one. great video as always!
I'm not a carpenter, but this video in your series, is superb. Well done!!
Really enjoyed the Alec Steel collab. Would love to see if he's interested in making a second attempt at it. Maybe another chisel or a blade for a plane.
I scored a 65mm tasai 'Anaya Nomi' recently. The hand filing is so nice! Now i'm addicted.
I appreciate your wrist band. Beautiful tools too!
Great video dude! You definitely earned my subscription. Cant wait for more content.
I like your site and like the tools and what you can do with them!!!
Nice detail and explanation. Thank you :) That simple scraper is an easy build and would definitely come in handy ॐ
You just made my day. Thank you so..
Hey thanks for the education. Didn't know most of what u taught. Thanks again
Perfect for installing doors and locks. Beautiful...
That knife is absolutely gorgeous. I'd like a sword like that. so badass with the hammer marks.
Your sharpening station is an area you could use some work. I use Naniwa Chosera stones- and I do it over the sink in the kitchen. Cleanliness is very important to achieving a pristine edge. The higher the grit to which you’re honing, the higher demands of cleanliness are required. You’re essentially transferring coarse grit up the chain from your 1k to your 30k and you can imagine what a rock pressed between to pieces of glass would do- it’s the same thing with your blade and stone. Ditch your sharpening station, build a sink bridge and rinse your stones often, especially on the higher grits. You’re obviously getting a good edge, but how your achieving that edge leaves a lot of room for improvement. To remove airborn and transferred contaminants, your stones should be cleaned before and after each use and your blade should be washed (scrubbed, not just rinsed) when changing from one grit to another.
I've heard these sorts of arguments before and I used to clean my stones and blades while moving up the grits. I stopped doing it because of laziness and to be honest I have never noticed a difference when using Japanese style or Sharpton stones. These stones tend to use materials that are equal to or get harder as the grit goes up, so any larger material carried over would be quickly pulverized by the harder and finer stones. It could be that other stone types or sand papers are based on partial size only and don't necessarily increase in hardness at the grit increases. In that case if larger partials get transferred to the higher grits they would not really get ground down but could continue to cut the blade and stone at the lower grit (just speculation). I would argue that the more convenient sharpening is the more you do it, and a 30k edge doesn't last long. If you have free time to walk to your sink with your tools and sharpening station, then set your station up and wash each stone between uses good for you.
He does what he finds works for him
@@travsb1984 agreed. I don't go as high as 30K, my finest stone is 12K, and for just that one stone, I always make sure things are cleaned before hitting it for final polish. The lower grades ... meh. It's fine. But a little care with the grind residue doesn't hurt... Pretty messy stuff.
You are a master dude.
This is just a thing of beauty. I wish I had the time to get into this. I am a big fan of the ancient way of doing things. Seems to be less of an environmental impact.
The different steels are similar to animal claws and talons. The backside is softer than the front. That makes them self sharpen as they wear with age and regrowth.
I measured shavings from my old Record 7 jointer with a micrometer. I flattened the bottom of it years ago and sharpened blade today on cheap diamond combination stone (finest side of it is 600) and finished it on leather strop.
Thinnest shavings were 0.04mm which is 40 microns. You really don't need shavings any thinner than that and you can reach it easily on usual western plane. I bought that one on flea market, it was 4€ which was a steal for big plane. Usual price for old Stanleys and others is 10-20 €
Its a good lesson ,thanks
Congrats on 500k!
From one sharpening obsessed guy to another, I'd recommend being very careful about contamination between stones. Thoroughly clean tool between stones and never let grit transfer from one stone to another. This may help you get that elusive 5 micron shaving. Best of luck and thanks for the cool vids.
Really with all the knowledge and training I found that very surprising he used the atoma dia plate on all of them with out rinsing! Theres tadition and then there's "monkey see, monkey do!" Just because he did it, but don't do that!
But good tips and review overall all young grasshoppers!
Bill Carter's blunt chisel technique would be useful for removing the high spots - basically a push scraper made out of an old chisel ground at 90%. It works better than trying to use a conventional chisel for taking off very small amounts when making a wooden plane.
I believe $1500 bucks. I'm starting to get a woodworking kit together and just spent $2k on Veritas planes. I've seen some Japanese chisel sets can be crazy expensive, but I just got a basic set from Two Cherries. I can build up the kit over time.
Nice seeing the work in setting up a Japanese plane. I might consider getting one (or several) so your video helps a lot. Thanks.
I just found a place to get the chisels, planes, and saws. I would love to see more maintenance videos.
I do bonsai. The high quality grafting knives are cupped the same way. Incredible craftsmanship and clever ingenuity.
The point of just the edge being tool steel is to conserve the amount of steel needed. Its labor intensive to forge the tool steel needed to have that super sharp edge the Japanese tools are so famous for. This goes back to when it took multiple days, and much man power, to produce a chunk of steel. The best of the steel was so expensive and hard to come by that it was used sparingly, only on the necessary parts. Everything else was cheaper steel or iron. Love your purchases from Japan, wouldn't mind having them myself.
500k !!!!!!! Just saw that !!!!
Go Samurai !!!!!
This motivates me to upgrade to a better Japanese block plane! Thanks......
really really great
great job buddy.
Nice! Now I'll just need to buy one!
Ive always wondered with the hollow grind on japanese chisels what happens and after a couple years of use and repeated sharpenings. It looks like you can only loose about an 1/8 inch worth of sharpening before you get into that that hollow? Is that true or am I missing something?
You stone that whole side as well as the actual edge which eventually flattens it out, it's on an incline towards the edge so the hollow recedes as you flatten it
Awesome video - awesome. Can you post a breakdown on the scraper so I can put one together please ? Keep on doing what you do !
I love that knife, very nice to slit some throat quickly without getting noticed.
I’ve bumped into your site a few times in the last few months and I keep forgetting why I moved on. In the first 5 min, you have proven who little you know about the tools you own, and for whatever reason you decided to put out a video telling an eager to learn audience how to set the tools up for use. You know, maybe spend 10 min on line to grab the information that you want to teach, then read it a couple of times. Then maybe you would be able to give accurate information in an informative format? ‘This is ... i don’t know what they call it,’ ‘It’s a... ya.,, a... yeah I don’t know...’ ‘It’s called...a...’ Hey, you know I get it. You got some toys from Japan, and you wanted to share them. Complete eye candy! Tool porn at its finest, my friend. Can you maybe do a follow up video and maybe learn the names of your tools, be able to name the parts? Perhaps a little history knowledge, practical usage, historical vs modern day use, and uses? Just a couple of thoughts.
Nice One!
500k Half a milllion subs! Congrats !
What if you need to scrape the bottom of the scraper-plane? Do you have an even smaller scraper-plane to scrape the scraper-plane?
scrapeception ...
LOL!
no. the surface is small enough that it can just be flat.
Well , I'm satisfied . I want several of these Japanese planes . I already have the stones and stone pond .
I dont think your crazy..get what ya pay for...theyre VERY NICE !!&CONGRATS ON 500K!! MUCH DESERVED
Oh and i like the new logo..pretty cool
Thanks for all that detail, getting a Japanese plane seems a little less daunting now. Are planes that are set up for hardwoods common over there too?
Most likely not since they mostly work in soft wood. I bet you could find some though
the soft steel is used as a "shock absorber" on the plane blades ( and also on the chisels) - because the cutting edge is so hard - especially the blue steels ( usually Rockwell 64 and up ) if you hit a knot the blade may chip at the edge - the softer steel absorbs some of the impact keeping the cutting edge intact...new blue steel blades may still chip a bit on the edge until you have sharpened them a few times and worked back into the "meat" of the steel....
The iron its coated with graphite so it’ll be slippery but not messy with oil or grease, its a technique used in the aviation industry
lovely.
Shape the bottom of the plane with the iron set. Makes a big difference
Hi, buddy! Thank you for posting wonderful videos. Would you have any recommendations for wet stones, any brand or something? I live in France and I am an amateur woodworker. I'll appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance !
Keep woodworking and posting. Blessed day!
Great video! I'm not a big fan of having a large cup on the dai, and prefer it flat flat flat. What happens with a cup is that (especially on narrower pieces) the leading edge drops down slightly as it moves off the edge of the board, such that the kanna cuts slightly deeper at the end of the pull. This increases resistance at the end of the board, and also gives rise to a slight curvature on the surface at the ends (of the same dimension as the cup in the dai). PS: note that Japanese also work with gorgeous hardwoods like keyaki (elm), which is a much greater challenge for the planer...but the results with proper technique are stunning.
Probly worth every penny... Tool envy is strong... That timber chisel.. I could use that right now.
Sweet!!
30,000 grit stone. I thought I was taking it too far with the 5,000 that I use for knives.
Kory Coster at that point it's really just sharpening for the heck of it. From personal experience i can tell you, there is absolutely no noticeable difference between 12k and 30k. Heck, even 3k finished with a strop and metal polish is very close to 12k.
For real I go to 8 k then I give up
@@Erowens98 not if your trying to get competition grade shavings lol.
@@Erowens98 there is a difference it just doesn't matter for woodworking. However, it does matter for competitions and to Japanese craftsmen who use the finish the plane leaves.
Thanks for the video. In the beginning you show there is a "cup" on the back to the blade. You explain the cup is to fit against a slight high point in the center of the bed where the blade will rest when inserted. Later in the video, when you are tuning the bed with a chisel, you appear to remove that high point. If that is what you did, doesn't that defeat the cupping design in the blade?
Jesse, Casper from Denmark here, know this episode is some months old now but I'll comment anyway and I have a question. I subscribed a long time ago and I'll watch whatever you put up even if i watch the live stream a few days after it went live. Keep up the good work and go the direction that makes the best numbers for if it helps your family and your channel. It's not all about the quality or the content, it's the package and that to me hasn't failed yet.
Anyway, could you acheive better planing and shavings if you would condition a western plane like you do the Japanese planes, say a wooden coffin plane for example? A test maybe?
Please show the way you adjust the blade and how you hold and use it when planning.
On a serious note , make you a hokone plane like the one in this video , from scratch . Using Bois d arc for the sole or Brazilian rosewood , and make the cutting iron from Damascus Steel using nickel and ball bearing steel . You can use mild steel for the chip breaker . Then , you will indeed have a hokone plane for a lifetime . Yes I have one in bois d arc . It grows natively here in Louisiana . And hell yes the wood is very hard and tough . So is a Damascus shaving iron . But I guarantee you it cuts smother than ANY. Other plane I have ever owned . It damn well should , it was a real bastard to make .
Just an observation, when you go up through the grid, you "contaminate" the higher grid stone with lower grid material from your flattening tool. Might be good to rinse it off between stones?
the black/grey stuff is essentially a fine grit polishing compound, you can just wash the block after. but leave it on while sharpening it reduces wear on the stone and makes the results better for your edge
@@TheFlyJunky you dont know what you talking about, the slurry from the coarse stones dont polish, it will ruin a high grit edge
@@simonvolsmann It's possible that he meant: leave the slurry on the stone while you're sharpening ON THAT STONE (without any kind of statement about what to do when switching between stones).
I wondered the same thing; when going from course grit to a fine grit I always clean the item I’m working on before going to the finer grit. In this case the diamond plate, used to flatten the honing and polishing stones, should be cleaned prior to each transition. I have a 4 sided leather strop coated with 2, 1, .5 and .25 micron diamond spray. I clean the surface of the counter and the blade I’m stropping after each phase to avoid cross contamination; otherwise you lose the effectiveness of the higher grits. Hopefully he is cleaning but it’s been edited out for brevity.
Awesome
I like these Japanese planes because I rarely have a need for sanding.
You say about the polish you're getting, it would be nice to see it up close, but love the vid.
You do good work and I enjoy watching your channel with great anticipation. Suggestion, One of the senses that isn't talked about much is sound. The sound of a drill bit changes just before it finishes its cut. In the case of this plane, I could hear the difference in the sound as it passed through with the grain or against the grain. And there are other sounds that the skilled crafsmen pay attention to Just a thought. RC
Good thought though. I can tell when I've sanded a board enough by the sound the sandpaper makes. At the beginning it makes a crisper hissing sound that gets more muffled as the sandpaper dulls.
So just how well did you do at the competition in Japan, and how many were competing? Keep up the great vids.
nice video
You are in your Zen right now.
I love your content man, Do you have any suggestions on japanese blade makers/ where to purchase from? I have a Inomoto Smoothing Plane dai coming in. This would be my first japanese plane, thanks for the help!
Amazing tools Samurai!
The costs you mentioned are phenomenal!
Do you have any idea what the cost would be for one of those planes in your video that was about 10 - 12 inches wide - I will be sure to be sitting down before I see "that" number.
Looking forward to the coffee table.
Regards
Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario Canada
This is how desire is "the root of all suffering".
I feel like a chicken watching a grub.
Had cocked, eyes focused.
So what was the difference between you and the 5 micron guys. Was there an obvious factor that you plan on improving for next year. Will there be a next year? What are spear planes used for? Keep up the videos I like to see your modern approach with these beautiful tools and techniques.
loved this video. I learned a ton of stuff. Question, is using the 30k stone anything like stropping? and would stropping help making the cuts thinner or the edge?
Thanks. What kind of scraper did you use? More usefully informative overall than many more wordy kanna videos. Obviously serious enough to compete in Japan.
Toolmaker use the 3 plates method to get perfect flatness on surface plate you should check it out I'm sure your diamond plate is not under .005mm overall flatness
Do you have a particular favorite? I heard that a good woodworker near me only had the 5000 grit stone? He had an 800 stone then he went right to the 5000, and he did nice work.
Concerning the sanding of the block/sole. If we are dealing with the micron level of measurement, how can one be sure the block is staying level when sanding. Flat is flat, but slight extra pressure on one side during sanding and your shavings may have a disparity one side to the other.
This blade‘s name is genmyo (玄妙 )with Sandvik steel.
Nice. I’m looking for some guidance on setting up a Japanese Skew Rabbet plane. Is it any different?
When you use the diamond plate to flatten your sharpening stone, i see your not cleaning it between each stone. I believe that contaminates your stone. Specially since you start with the lower grits. I learned to start with the highest grit and workdown from there and then clean it before next use.
Maybe that will get you 5 micron shavings :-)
Yup I agree, during my materials science degree, we used to polish metal samples, to 1 micron finishes. If you lost control of the sample (fingers get pretty numb and wet..) it could fall into the basin surrounding the polishing wheel and get contaminated with the slurry from the previous grits and scratch up. Would have to start the whole process again to get that perfect mirror finish for the microscope..
Though that's really nitpicking. 16 micron shavings are insane!!!
He was showing scratches after 30k stone it could very well be from lower grit contamination.... who am I to talk though, my planing shavings resemble Tom the chainsaw carvers floor
Totally.. Leaving dirty polishing stones.
A sepuku is in order..
You guys sound like the real deal when it comes to stones. I know there are several opinions about which stones to sharpen with. What do you guys recommend? What's a seppuku?
The other reason for the soft steel core is that, when you have sharpened it to the point that the tool steel is worn through to the mild steel in the middle, you are supposed to take a hammer to the top of the blade and tap it to force the hollow behind the edge to flatten out, moving more tool steel into the edge. You will continue to do this until the entire blade is used up, probably many years later.
hi buddy cheers from mexico!!! only one humble request from one of your fans...today i'd try to build my first kana.....(im getting there bit by bit)...say ...can you make one kana vid in how to???...thanks and arigato gosai masta !!
Brother! It's not that I have one of these hand planes, but my spirit animal uses one ALL DAY and he has a question... the 'height' of the bits that you don't give relief to - how do you make sure those are level and flat, or do they not need to be a very accurate angle to the blade? My worry is that I would (when polishing the foot on the 600 grit and stone) apply uneven pressure and have them at unequal heights. I'm not sure if I am making sense, but it would be something that I would worry about when setting up my plane... I mean Derek's plane... he's a badger by the way. Thanks for the rad video - stoked!
I am new at this high quality Carpentry. When you are trying to get a thin chave do you use a hard or a soft wood? Does the grain direction mater? You can tell I'm a newbie with the stupid questions I'm asking!! LOL
The process is quite reminiscent of hand scraping machine ways in metal.