So thankful for this video. I nearly ripped my fingertips and sweared a lot at the white roll but…it was worth it. Saved me a LOT of money!! Thanks mate!!
NOTE: WITHOUT YOUR VIDEO, THIS REPAIR WOULD BE NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE. THANK YOU FOR POSTING IT. I have a 2004 New Beetle Convertible Turbo with 14,000 miles on it. It is not driven often and it sits in the garage, especially in the winter. That did not stop the passengers rear window regulator wire from snapping (after about 9 years). I love working on my cars (all German). This was the most ridiculous and unnecessarily laborious repair. You know what you are doing and your video was priceless. THX!
great video- the last comment at the 7 minute mark is a biggie- "if the cables are not chewed up- reuse them cause the new cables are always a bit short". thanks for posting- I LEARNED alot- made the job wayy easier
At first when your tearing it apart I'm like"wth slow down what ? You douche I hate you" then for assembly it made perfect sense great info and help I am ever indebted to you, not really but seriously well done. I'm glad you know what your doing and helping us all out.
Thanks for the vcable.Very useful. Two notes. First: the black shuttle must be installed with the cable-end channels facing the assemply plate. I installed it wrongly all snapped out when it was installed in the car. Hence extra work to redo all. Second: the replacement cable came shorter by approx. an inch and could not be installed. Shortened the cable armour by approx. 1 inch, as advised by another youtube posting, and installed the kit allowing for a total of approx. 1/2 inch of spring compression to allow for providing constant tension in the cable.
Instructions were great. I did the right rear window, so it was the opposite, and my kit did not come with that replacement black plastic housing for the white wheel, so I had to figure out the number of wraps, but it was easy. Thanks!
Great video. Some people watch, some learn. However you have a great platform so it would do good to just slow down and take it easy. That will remind people who are less confident to take things apart carefully and in order.
Excellent video. If you purchase a non VW/VAG repair kit (i.e. a cheap one from one of the other vendors) the cable spool will not be pre-wound like shown when cutting zip-ties at 1:45. In my case the cable however was the correct length. Thank you - without your clear instructions this job would have been nearly impossible.
Spot on instructions...Thanks...The only thing I had to figure on my own was the number of winds for each cable around the take up pulley as mine was not pre wound as was yours.
Two complete winds of the end with the big spring and the fat sleeve. One complete wind of the other cable. Using a couple of thin cable ties will keep it together long enough to get in the plastic housing.
I want to thank you for this! I followed another vid that removes the glass, ya not on the other side. Glass attached now just waiting for the kits. Feeling like a 59 year old idiot after watching this.
Helpful, Thanks. I do have to disagree with the part about not replacing the spring and bushing though. Mine was pretty worn out on the contact surfaces. Also, I would recommend cleaning the channels and refreshing the lube. I did that on the one I repaired and then opened up the other side to clean and lube it up so hopefully I won't be doing that again on the other side. Very helpful though, thanks again.
+Jim Dowdell When I was at the dealer, these things were under 10 years old.... so it wasn't an issue. Now these things can be 13 years old, so I think you bring up a good point.
What an excellent video Jef , in the UK, apart from the repair kit shown, the only other option in 2020 is the replace whole regulator, including motor, AND new glass for over £550, plus Tax! And that's discounted?? Why new glass FFS? My mechanic friend has never done a Cabriolet rear window in his 40+ years, so had no idea on fitting said repair kit. This video has given me the confidence and with the excellent, straight forward instructions, to do it myself, big thanks Jef! I notice you mention cable tight, but I'm going to use genuine VW part, so hopefully, it'll fit better...... Maybe! £80 including tax.
Hey Jef, I replaced one this weekend and the window went up and down about 4 times and the cables came out from around the pulley and motor. The cable was super tight installing. (was a VW part, not aftermarket. any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong, or what to check?
after unpacking mine same box factory part. my cable is wound on pulley different from yours as in where the 2 cables are crossing by the pulley.mine is opposite from the one in your videw does that matter?
You mention that the kit comes with cables that are somewhat smaller, well they're going to be a little smaller because the ones that have been in there for years I'll more than likely stretch some. I also noticed that when you assembled it you put no type of Grease, there is grease required when assembling these things, that's probably why you had one fail within a week.
Have just had the whole back of my car apart to get to this bit (what a game if you havent done it before! ,this made my life a lot easier mate! nice one for putting this up saved a lot of agro. window goes up,window goes down,window goes down window goes up and so on . any idea how to replace the expensive lambda sensor ? thanks again.
Hi, did you get an answer to this? If so, what was the answer? Or different? How did you resolve the issue with the window unwantedly going down halfway?
I've not heard of the dealer supplied repair kit not coming with that part. The white pulley should be held in place by the 2 zip ties. If you purchased from the dealer, then I would double check them, you may of gotten an opened box with parts robbed out of it... :(
If removing the glass from panel use extreme caution on how tight the fasteners are. Too much pressure and you will break the glass which is hard to find.
Extremely helpful video. But do NOT cut both zip ties holding cable reel together. There is a relief that allows 1 zip tie to remain. If the cable comes undone you will hate life.
I never do. You have to have the window all the way up. In some cases, you will have to get the cable cut so you can pull the glass all the way up. IMHO, separating the glass is only going to cause more problems with lining things up, or breaking it.
I got it done. Put the regulator in then the glass then that black piece that the window seal sits on back in. Also had to replace the little bar with cups on either end that operate the flap that opens and closes when the roof operates. Just went to a hobby shop and used parts from a petrol RC car. Didn't have to readjust glass or anything. Winning.
Me: I'll try watching this, maybe learn a trick...probably just another YT shadetree hacker though 4:10: "...bitch and whine if I don't...ingrates..." Me: This guy's a professional
O2 sensor... lefty-loosey, righty-tighty. If rust is an issue in your area... sucks to be you then I guess. Get an O2 sensor socket is also a good help. O2 sensors Beetles are pretty easy to get to and they just plug up. DO NOT GET A C.R.A.P. O2 SENSOR! Chinese Replacement Auto Part If you put in a cheap C.R.A.P. O2 sensor, you will not fix the car. OEM parts only!
I'm going to do this my self outside and hate to have to cue the video back and forth, I'll just post my notes here, which will make my life easier later as I can tap on the links to guide the video exactly where I need it without having to slide the video back and forth a billion times. The links in my notes only work as public comments (for anyone thinking about complaining about them thinking that I've made this for them). I've written for myself and used some intuitive names (to me) so that I can differentiate the different parts (probably they are wrong but I don't really care). so, as the +jef4130 said, don't be a whiny little b. about my notes. if you like them, like them, if not , piss off. ---- beginning of notes ---- (assumes window assembly already out of car ) 1- take motor assembly off : 0:27 2- inspect (descart) cable assembly: 0:43 3- Pry out the plastic molded electric motor mount: 0:50 4 - remove 8 mm nut : 0:57 5- Get assembly prepared: by placing it over where it's going to go 1:34, removing the zip ties 1:41 making sure not to let the assembly come undone (if it does put it back). 5- snap the two barbs of the new regulator seen on 1:58 onto the window assembly slots seen on 2:02 6- put the first screw out of four into the back of the window assembly that secures the plastic backing of the regulator on the other side as seen on 2:15 7- add the carrier on the end with the spring 2:32 8- guide cables through wheels as seen on 2:42 9- pass the carrier under the center metal raiser 2:51 10- grab other end of cable and join it on other side of the carrier 2:57 11- hook the now joined cable on the top wheel , utilizing the knot on the wheel to pass the cable “in” the wheel housing 3:01 12- **difficult**, push in the lower cable on the lower side of the wheel 3:20 by compressing the spring and pushing the cable in the lower wheel 3:23 , using the slack, pull on the end closer to wheel from step 11 3:26 (making sure that the upper side of the cable does not pop out of the bottom 3:30 ), slide the upper cable in the wheel 3:37 13- move window guide down a bit, as show in 3:47 so it does not interfere with the carrier. 14- being careful that the plastic wheel is in place by keeping hand over it 3:58 , bring the carrier down 3:59 by pulling on the carrier towards the lower wheel on the upper cable and letting the lower cable be pulled into the upper wheel 4:00 15- Don’t be a whiny bitch and replace washers 4:11 16- work cable over to the its mating pin 4:25 keeping thumb on the lower wheel so it does not pop out 4:24, hold carrier in place until washer is attached (step below) 17- put washer in place 4:38 , screw in the new nut 4:40 18- pull glass all the way up, by aligning the base of glass mounting bracket on the edge of a surface, pull down on the window assembly, raising the glass 5:15 , keeping hanf over lower wheel and rotating it 5:25 so and by pulling on the glass 19- pop the cable to the other side of the guide 5:40 20 - put motor assembly over the lower wheel pulley 5:43 by working it in position, than hold it in place 5:52 , and drive the rest of the screws from the other side of the window assembly 5:56 21- secure the cable with zip-ties on the raiser's seen on 6:12 and 6:31 You are done.
Hey everyone! Just wanted to let you know we rebuild these with our own metal parts. A common issue with these kits and any regulator you can purchase, aftermarket or OEM, is that they still have cheap plastic that will break again. ua-cam.com/video/vdL-ty1wH9Q/v-deo.html
It would have helped if you’d shown the glass with the regulator to get the You Tube viewers oriented, and to tell us which way it’s turned (i.e., which side of the regulator faces the car door). You say you normally don’t replace some of the parts and call us piss-ant whiners because we would object to your throwing some of the parts! I wouldn’t want you to work on my car.
Ok, I shall not work on your car ya piss ant winner. What to do with my free time now. Will point out, The regulator shown was handed to me without glass. Honestly, once glass is removed... good luck with getting it back into the correct location... and it not shattering. I always left the glass mounted when doing the cable kits. Might also be worth pointing out, 10 years ago, no need to replaced some of those bits. But with the NBC coming out in 2003, these can be 18 years old so advice on that will be outdated, I'd replace those bits now... except on your car. I'd like to get a NBC to make a video on top replacement.
So thankful for this video. I nearly ripped my fingertips and sweared a lot at the white roll but…it was worth it. Saved me a LOT of money!!
Thanks mate!!
NOTE: WITHOUT YOUR VIDEO, THIS REPAIR WOULD BE NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE. THANK YOU FOR POSTING IT. I have a 2004 New Beetle Convertible Turbo with 14,000 miles on it. It is not driven often and it sits in the garage, especially in the winter. That did not stop the passengers rear window regulator wire from snapping (after about 9 years). I love working on my cars (all German). This was the most ridiculous and unnecessarily laborious repair. You know what you are doing and your video was priceless. THX!
I was able to repair mine for 30$ instead of a few hundreds because of you. Thanks ❤
great video- the last comment at the 7 minute mark is a biggie- "if the cables are not chewed up- reuse them cause the new cables are always a bit short". thanks for posting- I LEARNED alot- made the job wayy easier
At first when your tearing it apart I'm like"wth slow down what ? You douche I hate you" then for assembly it made perfect sense great info and help I am ever indebted to you, not really but seriously well done. I'm glad you know what your doing and helping us all out.
Excellent video - without your video we would have never gotten this job done! You saved us a lot of time and misery! Thanks!
You made it very easy for me to replace my window. Thanks! Now to get the back interior panel back in...
Thank you so much for posting this! It really helped a lot.
Great video. Couldn't have done this without it. Went just as you showed it would. Like the no nonsense video.
Thank you so much for posting this!!!!
Legend!!! Great video. Thanks very much!
Thanks for the vcable.Very useful. Two notes. First: the black shuttle must be installed with the cable-end channels facing the assemply plate. I installed it wrongly all snapped out when it was installed in the car. Hence extra work to redo all. Second: the replacement cable came shorter by approx. an inch and could not be installed. Shortened the cable armour by approx. 1 inch, as advised by another youtube posting, and installed the kit allowing for a total of approx. 1/2 inch of spring compression to allow for providing constant tension in the cable.
Instructions were great. I did the right rear window, so it was the opposite, and my kit did not come with that replacement black plastic housing for the white wheel, so I had to figure out the number of wraps, but it was easy. Thanks!
Great video. Some people watch, some learn. However you have a great platform so it would do good to just slow down and take it easy. That will remind people who are less confident to take things apart carefully and in order.
jason nortey My thoughts exactly, just because he’s done a million of these he goes through the repair so damn fast!
Excellent video. If you purchase a non VW/VAG repair kit (i.e. a cheap one from one of the other vendors) the cable spool will not be pre-wound like shown when cutting zip-ties at 1:45. In my case the cable however was the correct length. Thank you - without your clear instructions this job would have been nearly impossible.
Same here. Thx for this comment
And thank you everyone for making it possible.
Thanks a lot !
It did help us a lot here
Learned a lot from you video
This video really help me a lot thank u
Spot on instructions...Thanks...The only thing I had to figure on my own was the number of winds for each cable around the take up pulley as mine was not pre wound as was yours.
Two complete winds of the end with the big spring and the fat sleeve. One complete wind of the other cable. Using a couple of thin cable ties will keep it together long enough to get in the plastic housing.
I like this way better than the way where you need the special tool. You can make sure the operation is good before u test it with power
thank you so much! life saver!
Thanks for the good info.
I want to thank you for this! I followed another vid that removes the glass, ya not on the other side. Glass attached now just waiting for the kits. Feeling like a 59 year old idiot after watching this.
Well done. Went through it fast, but that's what the pause button is for. Thanks.
Helpful, Thanks. I do have to disagree with the part about not replacing the spring and bushing though. Mine was pretty worn out on the contact surfaces. Also, I would recommend cleaning the channels and refreshing the lube. I did that on the one I repaired and then opened up the other side to clean and lube it up so hopefully I won't be doing that again on the other side. Very helpful though, thanks again.
+Jim Dowdell When I was at the dealer, these things were under 10 years old.... so it wasn't an issue. Now these things can be 13 years old, so I think you bring up a good point.
Perfect, Ich hatte nicht die vormontierte Baugruppe, es hat trotzdem gut geklappt mit dem Video :)
What an excellent video Jef , in the UK, apart from the repair kit shown, the only other option in 2020 is the replace whole regulator, including motor, AND new glass for over £550, plus Tax! And that's discounted?? Why new glass FFS?
My mechanic friend has never done a Cabriolet rear window in his 40+ years, so had no idea on fitting said repair kit.
This video has given me the confidence and with the excellent, straight forward instructions, to do it myself, big thanks Jef! I notice you mention cable tight, but I'm going to use genuine VW part, so hopefully, it'll fit better...... Maybe! £80 including tax.
Thanks. I still swore a bunch but helpful
Hey Jef, I replaced one this weekend and the window went up and down about 4 times and the cables came out from around the pulley and motor. The cable was super tight installing. (was a VW part, not aftermarket. any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong, or what to check?
good thanks
after unpacking mine same box factory part. my cable is wound on pulley different from yours as in where the 2 cables are crossing by the pulley.mine is opposite from the one in your videw does that matter?
So our pulley came undone, is there a way to fix this?
What is the part number for the repair kit you used?
You mention that the kit comes with cables that are somewhat smaller, well they're going to be a little smaller because the ones that have been in there for years I'll more than likely stretch some. I also noticed that when you assembled it you put no type of Grease, there is grease required when assembling these things, that's probably why you had one fail within a week.
How do you take the panel in back window off
Have just had the whole back of my car apart to get to this bit (what a game if you havent done it before! ,this made my life a lot easier mate! nice one for putting this up saved a lot of agro. window goes up,window goes down,window goes down window goes up and so on . any idea how to replace the expensive lambda sensor ? thanks again.
Great too the point video. If my window goes up half way and then straight back down, do you think it's the regulator???
Hi, did you get an answer to this? If so, what was the answer? Or different? How did you resolve the issue with the window unwantedly going down halfway?
Mine didn't come with the black base so how many wraps do you need?
I've not heard of the dealer supplied repair kit not coming with that part. The white pulley should be held in place by the 2 zip ties.
If you purchased from the dealer, then I would double check them, you may of gotten an opened box with parts robbed out of it... :(
Just did this the other week isn’t so hard bud takes time if you do it the first time. Of course my wheel did not stay in place
If removing the glass from panel use extreme caution on how tight the fasteners are. Too much pressure and you will break the glass which is hard to find.
How do u put the glass on the rear . It a convertible. See it back on to t
Sew it back to the canvas
Merci beaucoup
GREAT VIDEO ! THANK YOU ! ABSOLUTELY POSTIVELY LOVED THE COMMENT ABOUT A BUNCH OF ENGRATES BITCHING, YOU ARE SOOOOOOO RIGHT !
Does anyone know where to buy a rear regulator kit now ten years later?
EBay, 11 years later 🤣
There's a big difference between demonstrating and teaching. This was a great demonstration. Not too much dang teaching though.
Some people watch, others learn. Thank you for watching.
+Don Makaveli Then you missed the nude scene at the 7:36 mark. Let me know when post up a better version of how to do this.
WTF do you want.
Where doni buy the kit you use the one I bought broke not long after installing
Vw dealer parts department.
Extremely helpful video. But do NOT cut both zip ties holding cable reel together. There is a relief that allows 1 zip tie to remain. If the cable comes undone you will hate life.
Nah , just wind it and put something heavy on it, or a tape maybe
Do you have to remove rear window to get regulator out?
I never do. You have to have the window all the way up. In some cases, you will have to get the cable cut so you can pull the glass all the way up. IMHO, separating the glass is only going to cause more problems with lining things up, or breaking it.
+jef4130 fuck
+Nik Nak Wine and dine me...... lets see what happens.
I got it done. Put the regulator in then the glass then that black piece that the window seal sits on back in.
Also had to replace the little bar with cups on either end that operate the flap that opens and closes when the roof operates. Just went to a hobby shop and used parts from a petrol RC car.
Didn't have to readjust glass or anything. Winning.
Where are you guys? I need help 69 year old trouble following instructions. Alexandria indiana
4 stars
Me: I'll try watching this, maybe learn a trick...probably just another YT shadetree hacker though
4:10: "...bitch and whine if I don't...ingrates..."
Me: This guy's a professional
O2 sensor... lefty-loosey, righty-tighty. If rust is an issue in your area... sucks to be you then I guess. Get an O2 sensor socket is also a good help. O2 sensors Beetles are pretty easy to get to and they just plug up.
DO NOT GET A C.R.A.P. O2 SENSOR!
Chinese
Replacement
Auto
Part
If you put in a cheap C.R.A.P. O2 sensor, you will not fix the car. OEM parts only!
I'm going to do this my self outside and hate to have to cue the video back and forth, I'll just post my notes here, which will make my life easier later as I can tap on the links to guide the video exactly where I need it without having to slide the video back and forth a billion times. The links in my notes only work as public comments (for anyone thinking about complaining about them thinking that I've made this for them). I've written for myself and used some intuitive names (to me) so that I can differentiate the different parts (probably they are wrong but I don't really care). so, as the +jef4130 said, don't be a whiny little b. about my notes. if you like them, like them, if not , piss off.
---- beginning of notes ----
(assumes window assembly already out of car )
1- take motor assembly off : 0:27
2- inspect (descart) cable assembly: 0:43
3- Pry out the plastic molded electric motor mount: 0:50
4 - remove 8 mm nut : 0:57
5- Get assembly prepared: by placing it over where it's going to go 1:34, removing the zip ties 1:41 making sure not to let the assembly come undone (if it does put it back).
5- snap the two barbs of the new regulator seen on 1:58 onto the window assembly slots seen on 2:02
6- put the first screw out of four into the back of the window assembly that secures the plastic backing of the regulator on the other side as seen on 2:15
7- add the carrier on the end with the spring 2:32
8- guide cables through wheels as seen on 2:42
9- pass the carrier under the center metal raiser 2:51
10- grab other end of cable and join it on other side of the carrier 2:57
11- hook the now joined cable on the top wheel , utilizing the knot on the wheel to pass the cable “in” the wheel housing 3:01
12- **difficult**, push in the lower cable on the lower side of the wheel 3:20 by compressing the spring and pushing the cable in the lower wheel 3:23 , using the slack, pull on the end closer to wheel from step 11 3:26 (making sure that the upper side of the cable does not pop out of the bottom 3:30 ), slide the upper cable in the wheel 3:37
13- move window guide down a bit, as show in 3:47 so it does not interfere with the carrier.
14- being careful that the plastic wheel is in place by keeping hand over it 3:58 , bring the carrier down 3:59 by pulling on the carrier towards the lower wheel on the upper cable and letting the lower cable be pulled into the upper wheel 4:00
15- Don’t be a whiny bitch and replace washers 4:11
16- work cable over to the its mating pin 4:25 keeping thumb on the lower wheel so it does not pop out 4:24, hold carrier in place until washer is attached (step below)
17- put washer in place 4:38 , screw in the new nut 4:40
18- pull glass all the way up, by aligning the base of glass mounting bracket on the edge of a surface, pull down on the window assembly, raising the glass 5:15 , keeping hanf over lower wheel and rotating it 5:25 so and by pulling on the glass
19- pop the cable to the other side of the guide 5:40
20 - put motor assembly over the lower wheel pulley 5:43 by working it in position, than hold it in place 5:52 , and drive the rest of the screws from the other side of the window assembly 5:56
21- secure the cable with zip-ties on the raiser's seen on 6:12 and 6:31
You are done.
Hi Jef do you have the partnumber for that rebuild kit
Thx
What?? If you have to explain how to take the window out???... Omg
Just show it.. it's nice to see. ..
LOL that's funny, my window is stuck in there too I have all the bolts out but it's still stuck
Hey everyone! Just wanted to let you know we rebuild these with our own metal parts. A common issue with these kits and any regulator you can purchase, aftermarket or OEM, is that they still have cheap plastic that will break again.
ua-cam.com/video/vdL-ty1wH9Q/v-deo.html
It would have helped if you’d shown the glass with the regulator to get the You Tube viewers oriented, and to tell us which way it’s turned (i.e., which side of the regulator faces the car door). You say you normally don’t replace some of the parts and call us piss-ant whiners because we would object to your throwing some of the parts! I wouldn’t want you to work on my car.
Ok, I shall not work on your car ya piss ant winner. What to do with my free time now. Will point out, The regulator shown was handed to me without glass. Honestly, once glass is removed... good luck with getting it back into the correct location... and it not shattering. I always left the glass mounted when doing the cable kits.
Might also be worth pointing out, 10 years ago, no need to replaced some of those bits. But with the NBC coming out in 2003, these can be 18 years old so advice on that will be outdated, I'd replace those bits now... except on your car.
I'd like to get a NBC to make a video on top replacement.
Go back to hand operation because it's impossible for a repair yourself your video is proof !
Why so angry? Someone forcing you to do this?
Yeah like wtf
Tengo ubetle con vertible imease falta la ventana de lado del chofer mi pregunta es si le afecta en la campota prabajarlo la campota
You can tell this guy is flat rate