Hi Robin, really appreciate your vids, all your work v high quality and explanations very useful. Just trying to work out what your corner posts are fixed down to, the look like they are floating which I guess makes sense what water to not pool between them and floor, but does this mean the floor at the corner essentially needs to have a 75mm square cut out of them?
Hi Robin. Excellent work as usual! I am just about to start a similar project using ground screws, can I ask what is the grey product you used to fill the gap from ground level to the underside of the building around the perimeter to keep vermin etc out? Many thanks
Hi Robin love the cladding video, have you ever done any of the more unusual or less traditional type of cladding? For example open rain screen cladding using cement board or timber. I think it would make for a really interesting video!
Hi Robin, I've been watching you on Skill builder for a long time and follow you on this own channel too. All brilliant content, showing how it's supposed to be done, very informative and educational. Really appreciated the setting batten tip on the Capel build, will be using that in the future. Could you tell me what type of fixing you used for your cladding on the Capel build? Maybe a video on the different types of fixings used in nail guns for different types of timber would be really informative for viewers as there seems to be some confusion out there.
Robin, as always thanks for your tips there much appreciated. On my build at Bodiam which is a mix of new build and existing ripping off the rotten shiplap and replacing with featheredge as yours what timber are you using for the soffit and facia please. Regards, Lester
Hi Lester, on this garden room we used a good quality treated sawn softwood to match the cladding that was also softwood all from Alsford Timber merchants
Hi Robin. Nice work so you’re probably the best person to ask. I’m building a workshop and I was just going to put the breathable membrane on then the cladding. Why do you put OSB, breathable membrane then batten it? Cheers
Do you always cut the cladding as an exact fit with no gap at either end? I have sern some information that recommends a couple of millimeter gaps at either end so that water cannot get trapped. I can see benefits of both methods.
Look Robin, my offer is still open. I’ll pay you 35 pounds for two weeks of your knowledge. Obviously, I’ll make the odd cup of tea, if you’re lucky.. Seriously though, your knowledge is second to none. Your vids are a great source of know how . Cheers.
I would allow a minimum of 35mm on the lap, this depends on the production quality of the cladding as some boards will vary in thickness both on the thick side and the thin side and this ultimately can make the boards different heights to one another
Dear Robin! I ask you once again -and hope you would read once-: DO NOT BASH your fist on the walls, corners please! It can cause you serious problems in the long run. Lovely details on this one, nice job Sir.
Mr Clevett! What wood species was the feather edge? I need to buy cladding but there is a massive choice and it gets confusing. Also you said it was tanalised? It didn't look treated
If you rebated the window closing strips and the corner posts, it would look like you had just fitted them straight on top of the cladding leaving triangular gaps all the way up. I agree with you on the inevitable shrinkage, but butting the boards to the verticals would be the lesser of two evils in terms of finish. (in opinion) Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter Correct! I built a summer house during Lockdown #1 and covered the ends of the cladding with strips, to tidy them up. I used T&G cladding, but there are still these small gaps all the way up. The other real problem, having done this, was that when painting the completed building, it was very difficult to get paint into the little gaps! It would have been better to make the cladding line up perfectly in the first place, and even to have applied a finish before fitting the trim strips. We live and learn.
@@ParaBellum2024 Thanks for the responses chaps. As ever with natural wood, it is often a style thing as to which was we account for the movement. For me, I'd tolerate the triangles in the side view for a gap-less look face-on. There is a great deal of detailing needed to get exterior wood to look good over the years, in the meantime here's always composite boards and silicone!
Hi Henry, I use a standard 50 x 25 mm roofing batten some guidelines say use a 38 x 50mm but that's overkill, get the British Standard batten is about 15% more but worth every penny let me know how it goes
@@ukconstruction I will indeed. I am currently modelling it in Sketchup, so I can show the roofers what I am trying to achieve. I need to ensure the (batten + cladding + bargeboard) is correctly calculated so i can advise on the amount of overhang the tiles need to be. The devil is in the detail. Your videos are really helpful and informative. Looking forward to the next ones.
Hi Robin. How did you handle the cladding board that runs across the bottom of that window? Did you make a cut-out where it passes the window, or did you stop the board at each of the window reveals and put a narrow in-fill between them?
@@ukconstruction I think I've got it. Not the easiest cut to make neatly onsite, I imagine. Anyway, good stuff. Love your vids! And thanks for the reply.
I *think* it’s because it’s timber and it’s outside there’s inevitably some movement over time and eventually the mitres will open no matter how good they are when you fit them. Much less obvious with a butt joint. Might be wrong on that though.
Dont understand the thumbs down this mans not just a timber surgeon he love using the tools just as much any one can see that
Garden room? That's bigger than my flat!
Thank's Robin.
Really like watching your videos as well as Paul Sellers. Amazing information!
Chris (Canadian carpenter)
if you was ever fortunate to be his apprentice you would learn so much
Well you kinda are, via UA-cam.
@@wummerG Always one zzz
Looks real smart. That end stop for the saw sure makes life easier.
I do that every time. Some great tips. 👌
Looks great Robin. I like timber but my clients want less maintenance so often go with composite or cement board.
spectacular ... great quick video
Hi Robin, really appreciate your vids, all your work v high quality and explanations very useful. Just trying to work out what your corner posts are fixed down to, the look like they are floating which I guess makes sense what water to not pool between them and floor, but does this mean the floor at the corner essentially needs to have a 75mm square cut out of them?
Fantastic videos ✨
Pencil marks piss me off also. Good vid from Pittsburgh
Possibly one of the stranger questions you’ve been asked- what trousers are those? Like the look of them!
Done a lovely job there.
Hi Robin. Excellent work as usual! I am just about to start a similar project using ground screws, can I ask what is the grey product you used to fill the gap from ground level to the underside of the building around the perimeter to keep vermin etc out? Many thanks
Looks perfect mate. Great work as always
Hi Robin love the cladding video, have you ever done any of the more unusual or less traditional type of cladding? For example open rain screen cladding using cement board or timber. I think it would make for a really interesting video!
Hi Robin, Do you have a knack to getting the nails in the cladding all in line when using a nail gun? Cheers
Just follow his pencil marks 😂
Great tips, Maestro. Thank you. Now, to get my mitts one of those MultiVolt jackets...
Hi Robin,
Which way would you position your nails on a 6" feather edge fence.
Keep up the good work, great vids!
Wyn
Looks awesome as ever
great source of info, thanks. Do you ever install waney cladding? be good to have some footage of that when you do.
Hi Robin, I've been watching you on Skill builder for a long time and follow you on this own channel too. All brilliant content, showing how it's supposed to be done, very informative and educational. Really appreciated the setting batten tip on the Capel build, will be using that in the future. Could you tell me what type of fixing you used for your cladding on the Capel build? Maybe a video on the different types of fixings used in nail guns for different types of timber would be really informative for viewers as there seems to be some confusion out there.
Looks great
Is the hikoki saw your go to saw ?
Robin, as always thanks for your tips there much appreciated. On my build at Bodiam which is a mix of new build and existing ripping off the rotten shiplap and replacing with featheredge as yours what timber are you using for the soffit and facia please. Regards, Lester
Hi Lester, on this garden room we used a good quality treated sawn softwood to match the cladding that was also softwood all from Alsford Timber merchants
would be cool if you did a Q&A
Beautiful work mate!
Hi Robin. Nice work so you’re probably the best person to ask. I’m building a workshop and I was just going to put the breathable membrane on then the cladding. Why do you put OSB, breathable membrane then batten it? Cheers
Hi Andy, I use OSB for rigidity and stability, the breather membrane then goes over this as moisture can migrate through the OSB too
Thanks Robin I’ll do the same
Looks the mutts nuts mate, any tips for open face cedar cladding? I‘ve got 270 sqm’s to do.
Do you always cut the cladding as an exact fit with no gap at either end? I have sern some information that recommends a couple of millimeter gaps at either end so that water cannot get trapped. I can see benefits of both methods.
Personally I would always but up to the edges unless.... directed otherwise by a type of material, client instruction or manufacturers detailing.
Look Robin, my offer is still open. I’ll pay you 35 pounds for two weeks of your knowledge. Obviously, I’ll make the odd cup of tea, if you’re lucky..
Seriously though, your knowledge is second to none. Your vids are a great source of know how . Cheers.
Hi robin how do you balance speed quality of work?
Is there a fixed measurement for over lapping the cladding( minimum to a maximum)??
I would allow a minimum of 35mm on the lap, this depends on the production quality of the cladding as some boards will vary in thickness both on the thick side and the thin side and this ultimately can make the boards different heights to one another
Shall we all just ignore the cable car on the lawn behind you?!? 😄
I assume it would, but does the "only nailing into one board to allow for movement" apply to fencing with feather edge boards too?
Great work! Do you leave a ventilation/insect strip at the top by soffit?
Yes there is ventilation bit with featheredge cladding it's not so important because it's quiet air leaky
What timber are you working with?
Guys different level
Hi robin what ah battery do you have in the rear handle circ? And how do you find it lasts? Cheers
Dear Robin! I ask you once again -and hope you would read once-: DO NOT BASH your fist on the walls, corners please! It can cause you serious problems in the long run. Lovely details on this one, nice job Sir.
Mr Clevett! What wood species was the feather edge? I need to buy cladding but there is a massive choice and it gets confusing. Also you said it was tanalised? It didn't look treated
Ive asked this too! Is it oak, siberian larch ? What is it?!
My guess would be a high grade pine
@@CStyler1989 looks like larch to me
Do they call you 'RC' on site now then Robin???
Robin, why not have rebates in the verticals so the inevitable lengthways shrinkage of the boards does not reveal a gap at the ends?
If you rebated the window closing strips and the corner posts, it would look like you had just fitted them straight on top of the cladding leaving triangular gaps all the way up. I agree with you on the inevitable shrinkage, but butting the boards to the verticals would be the lesser of two evils in terms of finish. (in opinion) Cheers.
Boards don’t shrink much at all along their axis, movement mostly is tangential to the grain
@@thetallcarpenter Correct! I built a summer house during Lockdown #1 and covered the ends of the cladding with strips, to tidy them up. I used T&G cladding, but there are still these small gaps all the way up. The other real problem, having done this, was that when painting the completed building, it was very difficult to get paint into the little gaps! It would have been better to make the cladding line up perfectly in the first place, and even to have applied a finish before fitting the trim strips. We live and learn.
@@ParaBellum2024 Thanks for the responses chaps. As ever with natural wood, it is often a style thing as to which was we account for the movement. For me, I'd tolerate the triangles in the side view for a gap-less look face-on. There is a great deal of detailing needed to get exterior wood to look good over the years, in the meantime here's always composite boards and silicone!
also have to praise the sound again and that hammer
Hi Robin. This cladding detail is exactly what we are hoping to achieve. Out of interest, what size battens did you use to hang the featheredge on?
Hi Henry, I use a standard 50 x 25 mm roofing batten some guidelines say use a 38 x 50mm but that's overkill, get the British Standard batten is about 15% more but worth every penny let me know how it goes
@@ukconstruction I will indeed. I am currently modelling it in Sketchup, so I can show the roofers what I am trying to achieve. I need to ensure the (batten + cladding + bargeboard) is correctly calculated so i can advise on the amount of overhang the tiles need to be. The devil is in the detail. Your videos are really helpful and informative. Looking forward to the next ones.
@@ukconstruction what size are the reveals? Do you fix the reveals after fixing the cladding, or before?
Hi Robin. How did you handle the cladding board that runs across the bottom of that window? Did you make a cut-out where it passes the window, or did you stop the board at each of the window reveals and put a narrow in-fill between them?
Hi there, the bottom pieces of cladding under the windows is cut around in one bit, hope that helps mate
@@ukconstruction I think I've got it. Not the easiest cut to make neatly onsite, I imagine. Anyway, good stuff. Love your vids! And thanks for the reply.
Hey robin im sure ive seen you on a commercial on tv a few weeks ago
We should build more houses this way, not just garden rooms
If I can find a pencil mark on that building, the bloke that owns it might ask me what I am doing. 😁
That one dislike on this video is prolly skill builder because its not on there channel hahaha
Can't wait to see the £4,000 door on this one....
Anybody know where you can get Robin's Hikoki jacket ?
Hi Peter, I am not sure if Hikoki sell them, maybe send an instagram post to Hikoki UK and ask? they are really nice mate!!
@@ukconstruction There sold out Robin thank's for replying.
Need downlighters in those soffits
😊👍
Is that a really long hammer?o or are you really short? ;-)
Both
@@ukconstruction Touche
👍
Why don't you mitre your reveals?
I *think* it’s because it’s timber and it’s outside there’s inevitably some movement over time and eventually the mitres will open no matter how good they are when you fit them. Much less obvious with a butt joint. Might be wrong on that though.