A lot of contractors will finish pine with a lower grit than with oak or other harder, less pitchy species. The finer grits can tend to load up with sap/pitch from the pine; so, I'd shoot for 80 grit to finish on the sander/edger and then 100 grit on the MultiDisc. This should set you up with a nice surface for the ClassicSeal with Traffic HD on top!
Hi @anonanon9385 - Whenever you see damage like that in the floor, use a carpenter's pencil or lumber crayon to mark it (so you can remember where it is after you've finished with the current cut). You can either remove these marks with your edger, or with your belt sander; first cutting at a 45, then at the opposite 45, then straight with the same grit once all the pencil marks are gone and the damage is removed. Regardless of technique, make sure to feather your repair area out into the surrounding field so that you don't create a noticeable low spot in the floor (which might be hard to see until you're putting finish on the floor). Hope that helps and Thanks for the question!
@@BonaProfessional yes very grateful and as seen in your video. I also used a light source on the floor and could see all the scratches and marks I missed. This is a rewarding occupation and I can see the skill level patience and discipline needed to become a specialist in this field. Your invaluable advise to all my questions is much appreciated 👍.
I'm planning to refinish some fir flooring (1910's 3/4 x 3.25'' t&g). The floors are in good shape (tight and flat) but have some glue residue in spots from sheet vinyl. What grit sequence (& equipment) do you recommend? I've sanded oak before, but these are obviously much softer. Thanks for any advice.
Hi David - Unless the spots are unusually heavy, most guys would take those spots off during the regular sanding of the floor; though you might have to go over them several times to fully remove (probably starting with 36grit and moving up or down from there). Some guys might also just edge those spots off before moving to the sanding machine. Hope that helps.
Hi @anonanon9385 - The slight angle on the first cut helps your paper to be a bit more aggressive, but also ensures that your drum doesn't follow any roll, chatter, or drum marks in the floor (cutting those at a slight angle should remove them if you're using an aggressive enough grit). After that initial cut, since the floor should now be flat in relation to itself, you can process to cut straight with the remainder of your cuts. Some professionals may continue with a slight angle cut even on the second cut, but in the opposite direction (just to finish removing any imperfections); though most pros that we know are moving the Bona Power Drive or similar machines after the first cut with their belt sander. Hope that helps! Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional yes that was very informative and insightful. I really enjoy and respect the fact that yous always reply. Your commitment to customer service is outstanding. Thank you.
Hi Toni - That's our Bona Belt HD, which is an 8" belt sander; 230v; w/dual speed pulley position. Hope this answers your question and Thanks for your interest - and for your time in watching the video.
Hi William and Thanks for your question. All of our professional products are sold through our local distribution partners thoughout North America (or the world for that matter). You can find a listing for NAM here: www1.bona.com/en-us/professional/find-a-distributor/ or try one of several quality online distributors like FloorMechanics.com Hope that helps!
Hi Davidi - Some of our distributors may rent the sanding machines, but that's generally not an option here in the States with Bona Machines. See the "Find a Distributor" on www.bona.com (Professional), and touch base with your local Bona distributor. Thanks!
Hi Wanako - At Bona, we set the edger to cut from about 12:30 - 2:00, in order to maximize the dust containment efficiency and make it easier to complete J-turns on the butt-end walls (versus some companies who set their cuts from 11:00 - 1:00). You also want the depth of the cut to be about 1 1/2" front to back - aggressive enough, but not digging into the floor. Hope that helps!
Wish this was in my feed 2 days ago. Just have my whole house sanded. Original floors in distress from 1950. I hope I did an okay job.
Hi @arianewell6252 - Hope your project is going successfully!
What final grit do you recommend for newly installed pine floors that will be sealed with Bona Classic and then finished with Bona Traffic HD?
A lot of contractors will finish pine with a lower grit than with oak or other harder, less pitchy species. The finer grits can tend to load up with sap/pitch from the pine; so, I'd shoot for 80 grit to finish on the sander/edger and then 100 grit on the MultiDisc. This should set you up with a nice surface for the ClassicSeal with Traffic HD on top!
@@BonaProfessional Well said, exactly
Hello,
Thank you for a very informative video.
Just a question how do you remove groves, stop and start marks and gouges.
Thank you.
Hi @anonanon9385 - Whenever you see damage like that in the floor, use a carpenter's pencil or lumber crayon to mark it (so you can remember where it is after you've finished with the current cut). You can either remove these marks with your edger, or with your belt sander; first cutting at a 45, then at the opposite 45, then straight with the same grit once all the pencil marks are gone and the damage is removed. Regardless of technique, make sure to feather your repair area out into the surrounding field so that you don't create a noticeable low spot in the floor (which might be hard to see until you're putting finish on the floor). Hope that helps and Thanks for the question!
@@BonaProfessional yes very grateful and as seen in your video.
I also used a light source on the floor and could see all the scratches and marks I missed.
This is a rewarding occupation and I can see the skill level patience and discipline needed to become a specialist in this field.
Your invaluable advise to all my questions is much appreciated 👍.
I'm planning to refinish some fir flooring (1910's 3/4 x 3.25'' t&g). The floors are in good shape (tight and flat) but have some glue residue in spots from sheet vinyl. What grit sequence (& equipment) do you recommend? I've sanded oak before, but these are obviously much softer. Thanks for any advice.
Hi David - Unless the spots are unusually heavy, most guys would take those spots off during the regular sanding of the floor; though you might have to go over them several times to fully remove (probably starting with 36grit and moving up or down from there). Some guys might also just edge those spots off before moving to the sanding machine. Hope that helps.
Just to be clear
The 1st cut is on a slight angle.
Tve 2nd cut is straight
But the final cut is that straight or on an angle as that wasnt mentioned?
Hi @anonanon9385 - The slight angle on the first cut helps your paper to be a bit more aggressive, but also ensures that your drum doesn't follow any roll, chatter, or drum marks in the floor (cutting those at a slight angle should remove them if you're using an aggressive enough grit). After that initial cut, since the floor should now be flat in relation to itself, you can process to cut straight with the remainder of your cuts. Some professionals may continue with a slight angle cut even on the second cut, but in the opposite direction (just to finish removing any imperfections); though most pros that we know are moving the Bona Power Drive or similar machines after the first cut with their belt sander. Hope that helps! Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional yes that was very informative and insightful.
I really enjoy and respect the fact that yous always reply.
Your commitment to customer service is outstanding.
Thank you.
Great video training. We only employ Bona Professional Floor Renovation Systems in Gibraltar
Default Name l love sanding some floors
I can handle all kinds of machines how much they pay.
Hello Gibraltar! Thanks and would be great to visit you for some on-site training!
What model of machine are you using
Hi Toni - That's our Bona Belt HD, which is an 8" belt sander; 230v; w/dual speed pulley position. Hope this answers your question and Thanks for your interest - and for your time in watching the video.
How much floor sanding and grinder
Hi William and Thanks for your question. All of our professional products are sold through our local distribution partners thoughout North America (or the world for that matter). You can find a listing for NAM here: www1.bona.com/en-us/professional/find-a-distributor/ or try one of several quality online distributors like FloorMechanics.com
Hope that helps!
Can this machine be rented in America?
Hi Davidi - Some of our distributors may rent the sanding machines, but that's generally not an option here in the States with Bona Machines. See the "Find a Distributor" on www.bona.com (Professional), and touch base with your local Bona distributor. Thanks!
What is the proper setting for the edger?
Hi Wanako - At Bona, we set the edger to cut from about 12:30 - 2:00, in order to maximize the dust containment efficiency and make it easier to complete J-turns on the butt-end walls (versus some companies who set their cuts from 11:00 - 1:00). You also want the depth of the cut to be about 1 1/2" front to back - aggressive enough, but not digging into the floor. Hope that helps!
@@BonaProfessional I love that I've been edging for 22 years and I have no idea what your talking about LOL. Never too late to learn!
Bona sander price plz
Hello Sathish - Apologies, but you'll need to get pricing from your local Bona machines distributor. Thanks for your interest!
Good Video
Thanks Cooke's!