Guys...you know the counterweight is adjustable on these if you experience too much vibration? Take the front cover off, and look at the counterweight/cam setup, you should see a black metal plate on it, that plate covers a black metal weight/block set inside the counterweight that can be adjusted to set the balance of the counterweight. This requires the removal of the cam/counterweight, just know they use a little threadlocker on it so first removal going to require a bit of muscle. Once you remove it from the housing it, flip it over you’ll see a second plate on the under side, and a black screw on the side of the counterweight. Now I haven’t done this yet, so I’m not sure if you need to loosen the screws on the plate first before adjusting that side screw (but you can remove the plate to get a visual of the adjustment block, then just adjust the weight in or out with the side screw, and try it out. Either the vibration will be better or worse, if it’s worse, adjust it again in the opposite direction. I’m not saying your fix doesn’t work or help, just wondering if you knew about the counterweight balancer adjustment?
@@a1thetruthforlife97 there's a video or two on UA-cam, where someone tears down the polisher and you can see what I'm talking about. I don't remember who made it so you might need to go through a couple of them to find the right one. Btw, I believe you might not need to remove the plate to adjust the weight...there's hole on the side of the polisher head that you can spin the counterweight around so the screw lines up with the hole...I think that's what the hole is for...so you can adjust the weight in and out. I could be wrong. Problem is I'm in the middle of a move and the polisher is already boxed up and at the new house in FL, while I'm still in PA, so I can't take a look at it.
After buffing out my '96 'Burban with the "stock" Bauer, I am sooo looking forward to trying this fix. Thank you sir for putting this out...it's gonna help a lot of folks avoid the nasty beat-down the Bauer gives out of the box!
There's a hole on the side of the machine at the head that lines up with a screw on the counterweight that you can adjust. By adjusting the screw in or out, you're moving the weight in and out in relation to the center shaft. This allows you to fine tune the overall balance and vibration of the machine. So if you switch backing plates, or pads, or you just don't like the feel, you can adjust that counterweight and smooth out the action of the machine. For some reason, no reviewer ever mentions or notices this feature, which I think is genius. No other polisher I know of allows this level of fine tuning of their machines.
@@ScottHD not sure if there were any generational updates or changes. I honestly don't remember myself cause it's been a while since I took it apart or fiddled with it. However I recommend first taking the baking pad off, so you can see the counterweight, cause I don't remember if you first have to loosen the screws on the face of the counterweight before you can slide the weight in and out from the side. You might not need to, I honestly just don't remember.
I love using Bardahl HTX red grease, anti-friction, extreme pressure, high temperature, in all my polishers !, it reduces noise, it's impressive !. Nice review 👍
I'm not sure where you found the Bardahl htx?? But I searched for some here in the southeastern region of the US, and it's not readily available. And when I did find it, it was very expensive! I usually use a good quality grease, like Lucas, or Balray on my cars, trailers, and motorcycles. And they tend to perform well. However, if there's something that's better, I'd always be interested in trying something else, assuming I don't have to take out a loan to buy it...
Try using Meguiars DA pads. They are designed for DA machines. It eliminates the vibration issues for my Beuer DA machine. If you use the pad that it comes with or a pad that is not designed for DA all the vibration will go to your hands.
6 vs 5 inch pads its 100 percent related to the mass of the pad. energy can only go two places, the tool or the pad. the lower the pad mass mean less tool vibration
Awesome stuff, I picked one up for $39 with a coupon and I think it will be perfect for my home use. I had already ordered a 5" backing plate so I'm glad to see I didn't waste my money.
Nice video!! When I was in college (1988-93), I detailed cars on the side, for party $. And I invested in a professional Makita buffer, which I still use today, on my cars. Last year I bought a new BLACK Tundra... urrrgggg! As you know, black paint shows every little swirl, scratch, and paint flaw! So, I've been entertaining the idea of buying a new DA buffer. And thanks to your video, I'm going to save $200 - $400 over a professional DA buffer, and try out the HF, Bauer DA buffer, and upgrade the grease in it, and switch to a 5in backing plate... Thank you for the video!
You're very welcome! My original Makita I bought back in 1996-1997 finally gave up on me a couple years ago and replaced it with the equivalent modern one (9227c) and it's still going strong!
@@ScottHD Those old Makita's were the shinizzle, back then!!! And honestly, I still love mine!!! But, not for a black car! Technology has come a LONG WAY since those days! I would have never used a foam pad back then to do paint correction! Ha! Foam pads were for final step with Carnuba only... Anyways, I bought the Bauer DA polisher today, and took it apart and cleaned out the nasty tan color Chinese grease, and replaced it with some Lucas red and tacky, high temp grease. I haven't read any of the comments, so ignore this part, if its already been mentioned. The back plastic piece wouldn't go back on, with the 4 silver fasteners tightened into place.... So, I had to loosen those back up, to get it back on. Maybe yours was different than mine?? But, other than that little detail, this was GREAT instructional video for any DIYer, or Auto Detailer that's on a budget. Or anyone who may already own this HF tool... Thank you for making it! I already hit like. Now, I'm going to subscribe! Have a Merry Christmas!!!
@@jbplays7302 thank you. I didn't have that issue getting mine to go back together but good info to know. Merry Christmas to you and your family as well!
I’m just curious why buy the Bauer with intentions of adding on another $50’or so to modify it. Why not just buy a better machine with that extra money? Will these modifications perhaps make it a better machine than the one you would buy with that extra $50 (give or take). I used the Bauer today gir a few hours and my hand and shoulder hurt from the vibrating. It’s intense. I can’t go to 6. I almost let go , it hurt because the vibration was so high. I’m just trying to correct my cars paint and now I’m addicted to this. This is My new hobby at 63.
I just bought a Bauer and going to do the mods that you outlined in the video as soon as the backing plate and grease come in. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you for for posting your discovery of swapping out the grease. I bought the Bauer, tried it stock, swapped the grease and noticed the big reduction in noise and vibration. I am no detailer, just a garage handyman, I think I bought one tool that will fit in my garage for years to come. Thank you for this post!
I did the grease mod to a HF brushed cordless bit, much smoother. To make them last longer use electric sensor cleaner and spray through the venting holes into the electrical components. I did so on the brushed bit and tons of carbon contact debris washed out, runs much smoother and quieter.
could you elaborate on that? I just bought the polisher and would like to properly maintain it for a long time. Do you need to take the polisher apart at all, or just spray from the outside? Do you run the machine while spraying..? Thanks!
You can buy the spray at most auto parts, electronic sensor MAF cleaner etc, or at a computer shop. A few short bursts, do not soak it. I wait a few seconds before giving it some power, let it evaporate a little. No, do not take it apart, just spray toward the motor brushes, commutator. I do this same deal in my rc cars and airplanes.
5:48 it looks to be around the same point/very close on the balance but the angle on the molding of the Bauer is right on that point so it does not allow you to balance it. It's right where the head gets larger right after the label
My Bauer is much quieter and smoother straight out of the box. They must have upgraded it recently from the factory. Just bought it today. I put a Rupes DA coarse blue wool 6 inch pad on it first time using it.
I’m not a professional detailer just a DIYer so I bought the Bauer DA polisher just yesterday and today this video popped up in my feed!!! Thanks for the info I will definitely try your recommendations!!
Just picked one up today and did the mod before even turning it on, used Supers Red #2 High Temp bearing grease. Runs smoothly, now I’m wondering what it felt like before. The chicom grease was just shot in and as it hadn’t been turned on (even by QC at the factory) it came out very easy. This will be my first attempt at detailing so I’m off to watch your other videos. Thanks!
Great video! I actually got here from the F-150 detail you did with all HF tools. I bought the 20mm Bauer polisher with a 25% coupon a couple weeks ago. It was only $80. I actually bought a 5" backing plate (I'm new but read amazing things about them) and I'm really excited to try everything out. Unfortunately it's been about 105 degrees every single day here in Texas, so I've been waiting for a better time. Watching this video makes me itch to get out and try it. I also subscribed since I like your take on " cheap" detailing things! Haha
@@ScottHD UPDATE: Just replaced the grease in the head with Lucas Red n' Tacky grease. I bought this DA polisher about a month ago and the grease in it was way higher quality than what you showed in your video. I guess they fixed that. I'm still glad I changed it and I put the 5" backing pad on it from now on. Can't wait to use it!
changing out that cheap grease is good practice but that wasnt what stopped the vibrating. the vibration was coming from the cheap out of balance backing plate.
It would have been good to demonstrate the effect of a single variable at a time, meaning showing the effect of changing the bearing grease after reinstalling the original backing plate, then repeating the demo with the Rupes backing plate. It is difficult to imagine how the grease would have any effect on vibration, though it will very likely help the tool last longer. I just finished detailing a subcompact with the Bauer and it worked fine, though I did each of three passes on a different day, so I didn't have the problems that some people have described. I will be trying these mods before my next detailing project.
@@denisef1153 There are probably differences in quality control with an inexpensive tool like this, but I suggest you read some of the comments regarding adjusting the counterweight. Your tool may not have been correctly balanced at the factory.
Good work! Your videos are coming back to back with great content. I love the product comparisons as well as showing what can be done on a budget. Thank you!
I tried swapping out the grease on mine with Lucas heavy duty grease. Now it's incredibly unbalanced. Thanks I guess this video cost me a lot of $ now I have to buy a new one!!
Probably the fix in the video for the vibration is the mod by replacing the old backing plate with a more well balanced backing plate. A well balanced wheel on a car definitely beats an off balance wheel on the same car in terms of the degree of vibration it creates on to the chassis.
@@ScottHD Also be sure to check after swapping the backing plate, then swap the grease & put the Bauer backing plate back on and retest, and then swap in the Rupes backing plate and then retest so we can see how much of the difference is from the backing plate and how much is the grease.
@@LegionPrime I'm going to buy another one and do it again. Purchased a "hand arm vibration meter" from England that measures this type of vibration. The EU has a set standard for it so I have something to go by. I am using it for my upcoming cordless polishers test.
On my last Bauer I did what you said I put Lucas grease and a 5" backing plate it worked pretty good probably worked with it for a year... then the backing plate sheared off and shot across the room!!! I'm not sure if it had anything to do with the changes or not lol.
Did you mention that you can screw in or out the counter weight with the bauer? There is a hole on the front of it..you can fine tune it and cut back the vibration quite a bit!
How exactly can you fine tune it? I have the Bauer and I like that it’s a cheap polisher and I have it honestly to modify it and make it a great polisher without spending tons of money on an expensive one
@@oscarg5031 - You adjust the distance of the counterweight in relation to the axle. Simple trial and error no big fuzz. When adding bigger/heavier pad or smaller/lighter pads the balance of the rotating mass change, sometimes radically. a few tries will set you back with a well balanced machine! Same principle and reasons why you balance the wheel on a car, etc... ;-)
Wow, great tip thank you. I’m a beginner detailer and want to learn to paint correct. I was skeptical about this but I’m on a budget , I will definitely be picking up this tool and your suggestion. Thanks 🙏🏾
Hi. I hope you got that business going. Make an Amazon wish list and make it shareable or public. You add things you wish for. Tell your family. All future gifts can be related to your detailing business
Interesting video and well done video. Changing out the grease may very well be a good idea; however, likely had little to nothing to nothing to do with the reduction in vibration, the smaller backing plate would account for that. Put the larger backing plate back on and the vibration will return.
You’d wanna try the new Griots backing plate, or even the Kamakazi backing plate. Other backing plates that would help, shinemate plates. You’ll also find from these plates the Buff and Shine pads work better than some, HDO work better than others and so forth. Which is best will be up to you but I’ve done all these plates with the new G21 ans the new Shinemate cordless. Very interesting.
You probably already know this, but the 5 inch backing plate is probably the main thing making it balanced and giving more control when in use. Reduced the weight of the head and 6 to 5 inches is a pretty significant drop to rotational force. No clue what grease is used in the factory but I would be hesitant to use white lithium grease in the motor. It is more of a bearing grease and not meant for high temp uses. 130 c it will break down and have issues. This grease would also be very bad to use on a random orbital or anything with a linear motion going back and forth. I am not a grease expert so do your own research and if doing a modification like this make sure the grease you’re using can handle the expected conditions or your tool will not last a month. Good and interesting video though. Definitely going to be swapping to smaller plates for similar tools. Takes longer to do jobs but I’d rather have good control over the machine.
I've used my Bauer on 20 or so cars since new. Haven't noticed much noise but will try the grease swap. Would have liked to seen the comparison with the exact same backing plate and same buffing pad. Thought that part of the review to be a bit useless.
Excellent video, I one of those machine from Harbor F, used on the hood of my truck and could not drink water from a glass because of the shaking, I am going to try doing this to my machine. Thank you very much for the info.
That looks good if you already have that polisher, but I think I would be better in the long run if I just sprung for the HF Hercules Forced Rotation DA Polisher to begin with.
Not cast, sintered metal. Powdered metal pellets, pressed and then heated. The grains of the metal grow together with the heat and pressure resulting in that appearance. Gears are done like that as well. Much cheaper than casting and an order of magnitude cheaper than machining. This is not that bad, they all do it. Not just DAs, most power tools use this process
@@ChungNguyen-rj5rf I think Scott addressed it in another comment. The backing plate seems most likely, you don't get the price down that low without some cost engineering.
Great video and I loved your recommendations but do you mind explaining why this particular type of grease? I'm just a DIYer trying to make my tool work better.
Hello Scott, I am brand spanking new to this trade and loving your videos, instruction and insights - thank you for this! Maybe a dumb question, but can the DA Bauer Polisher be used as a sanding tool?
Neat, good mod! Seems like good maintenance practice in general. I just brought home a vibrating Chamberlain Waxmaster model 1100 that I have to research on how to repair. Wondering if similar design. Will find out and try to report on in an upload video or two when I get around to making. Thanks for sharing!
Hi was doing this switch like your video but there is a small little barring ball that came out but don't know we're it belongs it fell out of place when i removed the backing plate screws can you please help ?
Great Video. Thanks for helping keep the hobby not too spendy. I don't have the Bauer yet but it seems like a nice addition to my garage without breaking the bank. :^) I am just a weekend warrior upkeeping 3 family cars. Wondering if you have other better quality/balanced 5" backing plates in your shop. It would be interesting to see how they other major Consumer Level Brands backing plates compare to the Rupes in balancing the Bauer. I see many like Meguiars, Griot's, Torque, Chemical Guys, etc with 5" plates (some with holes and some without). I assume the ones with holes may be of better quality and help dissipate the heat better. Maybe a good video idea.
We love the Rupes backing plates on our Rupes polishers and non Rupes polishers. The Bauer - if you watch for a coupon - can be had as cheap as $79 or $89. I've usually seen it around black friday. The holes are supposed to help dissipate heat better yes. I also changed the grease out in the Bauer and it made a world of difference with the heat.
Great tips. For the ~$100 polisher with $50 in mods, do you think it might be better to just get a Griots G9 for $160? Looking to get one or the other soon.
Man I just bought this from HF but I’m thinking if I should return it and get a Griots G9. I should have done my research more and ordered a G9. To me it seems like a G9 is ready to go out the box and balanced well.
@@chrisfrerichs8360 The G9 has a 6” back so you still have to buy a 5” if that’s the route you take. I myself did end up buying the G9 and bought the $55 5” conversion kit that comes with pads off Amazon. Auto Zone offers a military discount so I saved a few bucks. So does O’Reilly’s.
Is this Bauer polisher better than the old porter cable cheapie? I just ask because I bought the PC like 10 years ago and never used it. I'm getting ready to clean up my 2 old cars to sell and full paint correct my newer Lexus. Should I sell the PC and get the Bauer?
Probably more effective approach in reducing vibration is to basically to start off with checking and replacing any tired bearing having any slack in the rotating assembly.
Where do I get a 5” backing plate? I have that Bauer rotary polisher but it comes with a 6” backing plate the stock one. That’s what it says on the box I changed out my grease to red lithium high temp grease though. But can’t seem to find any of the backing plates that take the Allen wrench bolt type? And also why are you using the 7” pads on that supposedly 6” rotary polisher backing plate?
Understood. The 5 or 5.5" backing plates use 6" pads. The 6" backing plate uses a 7" pad. That extra inch hangs over the edge by 1/2" on the edge. They've always been doing it that way for some reason
@@ScottHD I got done watching your videos on the Bauer da rotary polisher where you add on the rupes 5” backing plate where it has great results. Would you mind if you shared your link on which to get sir? Some local stores here don’t carry 5” cutting pads or fine foam pads. Just 6” Bauer cutting pads to fine foam. Man those RUPES products aren’t cheap too. I did my whole car awhile back it’s a black 2014 camry and man I brought the paint back to life. I watched your vid when you restored that black ford trucks paint. I used meguairs ultra cut compound and meguairs polish from orielly that white bottle one still did absolute results.
@@jimmysegovia2688 check the video description. Link is in there 👍🏼 (if you don't see it, there's a little arrow next to the title you have to click on and it will expand the description)
I'm a litte late but I really hope you see this my question is if I just change it the grease will that make a difference too or do I need to change the backing plate to a 5 inch or in my case I would like a 3 inch
Not sure what you did to correct the vibration apart from the $30 replacement pad ! Also, if I were to change the grease I would go for a helical application moly spec.
great video man! If I'll replace the grease, but will keep the "stock" backing plate, would it make any difference? In my country I cant reach it...but I have similar chinese DA and it is vibrating as hell
I think the grease alone won't help the vibration. Look at a video I posted a few weeks ago about the update on the vibration (using measuring devices) to show you what's best for it.
Hi Scott, I justa subscribed to your channel and the video is very interesting, I have the same Bauer machine and I will make the changes as you indicated but I would like to know if the 5.7 amp Bauer, which is smaller, can be improved. If it can be improved, could you make a video?
Awesome video Scott! Thanks for the idea. One problem I have with my DA is the clutch stops the head spinning with only the weight of the DA. Any way to make the clutch less weak?
Where do you see a clutch? Just curious. Or are you talking about when the head stops spinning and looks like it's standing still when you're using the polisher? That's a normal aspect of DA polishers, and usually means either you're pressing too hard, or are on a hard edge, or the tool is underpowered. Usually its one of the first two issues. Which is why they also make direct drive DA polishers...with a fixed gear rotation, these won't stall out like the random orbit polishers.
@@BigBear-- thanks for the info. Even with light pressure mine stops sometimes so I'm guessing it's underpowered. It's an off brand so that's probably why. It's fine for polishing but hard to do and cutting or paint correction with. I was wondering if there was anything I can do to fix it but sounds like it's not really adjustable. Thanks
I did the grease change on the Bauer last year. Due to the fact I had so many 6” pads I finally got the 5” Rupes backing plate. And it does make more of a difference in the reduction of vibration. Plus the Rupes backing plate is a much higher quality plate. I did want to ask I was planning on getting a better DA polisher. And I was curious as an enthusiast would you recommend the Bigfoot or pay the extra few and get the Mark III.
I’m just a do it yourself-er and after these mods, it still vibrates a little too much in my opinion. Maybe I got a bad one. I won’t use it. Will just spend the money on a griots for this reason.
Hi Scott, I want to cut and buff my freshly painted car( 6mos. Old). What pads and compound would you recommend. I certainly will invest in a Bauer Polisher and Rupes 5” pad for this project. And would you cut with 1500 wet?
@@ScottHD No, just been sitting in storage after an all over paint job, I am putting it all back together as we speak. I have restored many vehicles in the past, just never had the balls to sand and polish fresh paint before. They usually come out very nice but this time around I painted it and not my expert painter and my finish has zero to heavy orange peel including some areas where the clear feels dry.
@@ze_german2921 hopefully there is a lot of clear coat to work with. Definitely wetsand/sand with 1500/2000/3000 followed by a coarse cutting microfiber pad and an agressive polish like Meguiars M105 or Shine Supply Chop Top, and finish out with a fine pad and polish (Rupes yellow pad)
@@ScottHD hello Scott, i decided to re-clear the car since I still had it all apart and give me enough cushion to level the Clear coat. I just wet sanded everything with 1500 and will follow up with p3000 today. What would you recommend for polishing Compound? Also the car is Pure Black, non-metallic. Would you just use M205?
You must have gotten lucky. I just did the exact same things to my new polisher and it vibrates just as bad. Ordered the exact same rupes backing plate and everything. Weird.
![[HELPFUL] How to Change the Grease in Your DA and Rotary Polisher](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bvItFqXujno/mqdefault.jpg)
Guys...you know the counterweight is adjustable on these if you experience too much vibration? Take the front cover off, and look at the counterweight/cam setup, you should see a black metal plate on it, that plate covers a black metal weight/block set inside the counterweight that can be adjusted to set the balance of the counterweight. This requires the removal of the cam/counterweight, just know they use a little threadlocker on it so first removal going to require a bit of muscle. Once you remove it from the housing it, flip it over you’ll see a second plate on the under side, and a black screw on the side of the counterweight. Now I haven’t done this yet, so I’m not sure if you need to loosen the screws on the plate first before adjusting that side screw (but you can remove the plate to get a visual of the adjustment block, then just adjust the weight in or out with the side screw, and try it out. Either the vibration will be better or worse, if it’s worse, adjust it again in the opposite direction.
I’m not saying your fix doesn’t work or help, just wondering if you knew about the counterweight balancer adjustment?
Idk when this changed but mine now has a hole on the black rubber cover that lets me access the Allen bolt to move the counter weight.
Do you have an illustration or video
@@a1thetruthforlife97 there's a video or two on UA-cam, where someone tears down the polisher and you can see what I'm talking about. I don't remember who made it so you might need to go through a couple of them to find the right one.
Btw, I believe you might not need to remove the plate to adjust the weight...there's hole on the side of the polisher head that you can spin the counterweight around so the screw lines up with the hole...I think that's what the hole is for...so you can adjust the weight in and out. I could be wrong. Problem is I'm in the middle of a move and the polisher is already boxed up and at the new house in FL, while I'm still in PA, so I can't take a look at it.
After buffing out my '96 'Burban with the "stock" Bauer, I am sooo looking forward to trying this fix. Thank you sir for putting this out...it's gonna help a lot of folks avoid the nasty beat-down the Bauer gives out of the box!
Brian from Apex Detailing advises to replace the grease before even first use on nearly every budget Polisher. Good video for the backing plate!
Great point! I advise (and do it) too! Don't know what type of grease it is that comes with these polishers, but it doesn't do much!
There's a hole on the side of the machine at the head that lines up with a screw on the counterweight that you can adjust. By adjusting the screw in or out, you're moving the weight in and out in relation to the center shaft. This allows you to fine tune the overall balance and vibration of the machine. So if you switch backing plates, or pads, or you just don't like the feel, you can adjust that counterweight and smooth out the action of the machine. For some reason, no reviewer ever mentions or notices this feature, which I think is genius. No other polisher I know of allows this level of fine tuning of their machines.
I'm going to dive into that and see. I had no idea!
@@ScottHD not sure if there were any generational updates or changes. I honestly don't remember myself cause it's been a while since I took it apart or fiddled with it. However I recommend first taking the baking pad off, so you can see the counterweight, cause I don't remember if you first have to loosen the screws on the face of the counterweight before you can slide the weight in and out from the side. You might not need to, I honestly just don't remember.
I love using Bardahl HTX red grease, anti-friction, extreme pressure, high temperature, in all my polishers !, it reduces noise, it's impressive !. Nice review 👍
Great tip!
I'm not sure where you found the Bardahl htx?? But I searched for some here in the southeastern region of the US, and it's not readily available. And when I did find it, it was very expensive!
I usually use a good quality grease, like Lucas, or Balray on my cars, trailers, and motorcycles. And they tend to perform well.
However, if there's something that's better, I'd always be interested in trying something else, assuming I don't have to take out a loan to buy it...
Try using Meguiars DA pads. They are designed for DA machines. It eliminates the vibration issues for my Beuer DA machine. If you use the pad that it comes with or a pad that is not designed for DA all the vibration will go to your hands.
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But I didn't have vibration like that before I replace the grease.
Pro Tip - You can melt away the Chinese grease with a heat gun - Awesome Video!
Good to know! LOL
That’s what I did.
Probably a good approach for optimum lubrication of the new quality grease. But I just wiped it out with a paper towel :)
I’ll be using this method soon. Thanks for the tip
I would also highly recommend using a Moly (Molybdenum) based grease for the gears in tools like these, it’ll last longer and not burn up as fast.
Already changed out the grease and it helped with the noise level. Going to swap out the backing next. Thanks for the tip!!
Absolutely! It's a game changer!
@@ScottHD why the rupes backing plate?
@@l-a-r-k-y-y6048 he happens to have that one. Any comparable 5” backing plate will work.
6 vs 5 inch pads its 100 percent related to the mass of the pad. energy can only go two places, the tool or the pad. the lower the pad mass mean less tool vibration
Awesome stuff, I picked one up for $39 with a coupon and I think it will be perfect for my home use. I had already ordered a 5" backing plate so I'm glad to see I didn't waste my money.
Nice video!!
When I was in college (1988-93), I detailed cars on the side, for party $. And I invested in a professional Makita buffer, which I still use today, on my cars.
Last year I bought a new BLACK Tundra... urrrgggg! As you know, black paint shows every little swirl, scratch, and paint flaw! So, I've been entertaining the idea of buying a new DA buffer. And thanks to your video, I'm going to save $200 - $400 over a professional DA buffer, and try out the HF, Bauer DA buffer, and upgrade the grease in it, and switch to a 5in backing plate...
Thank you for the video!
You're very welcome! My original Makita I bought back in 1996-1997 finally gave up on me a couple years ago and replaced it with the equivalent modern one (9227c) and it's still going strong!
@@ScottHD Those old Makita's were the shinizzle, back then!!! And honestly, I still love mine!!! But, not for a black car!
Technology has come a LONG WAY since those days! I would have never used a foam pad back then to do paint correction! Ha! Foam pads were for final step with Carnuba only...
Anyways, I bought the Bauer DA polisher today, and took it apart and cleaned out the nasty tan color Chinese grease, and replaced it with some Lucas red and tacky, high temp grease.
I haven't read any of the comments, so ignore this part, if its already been mentioned.
The back plastic piece wouldn't go back on, with the 4 silver fasteners tightened into place.... So, I had to loosen those back up, to get it back on. Maybe yours was different than mine?? But, other than that little detail, this was GREAT instructional video for any DIYer, or Auto Detailer that's on a budget. Or anyone who may already own this HF tool...
Thank you for making it! I already hit like. Now, I'm going to subscribe!
Have a Merry Christmas!!!
@@jbplays7302 thank you. I didn't have that issue getting mine to go back together but good info to know. Merry Christmas to you and your family as well!
I’m just curious why buy the Bauer with intentions of adding on another $50’or so to modify it. Why not just buy a better machine with that extra money? Will these modifications perhaps make it a better machine than the one you would buy with that extra $50 (give or take). I used the Bauer today gir a few hours and my hand and shoulder hurt from the vibrating. It’s intense. I can’t go to 6. I almost let go , it hurt because the vibration was so high.
I’m just trying to correct my cars paint and now I’m addicted to this. This is My new hobby at 63.
I just bought a Bauer and going to do the mods that you outlined in the video as soon as the backing plate and grease come in. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you for for posting your discovery of swapping out the grease. I bought the Bauer, tried it stock, swapped the grease and noticed the big reduction in noise and vibration. I am no detailer, just a garage handyman, I think I bought one tool that will fit in my garage for years to come. Thank you for this post!
Did you swap the backing plate or just the grease?
@@atgn70 Just the grease.
I saw a teardown and there was a weight with an adjustment screw inside the offset weight. Maybe a video to see if that helps with the vibration?
I did the grease mod to a HF brushed cordless bit, much smoother.
To make them last longer use electric sensor cleaner and spray through the venting holes into the electrical components.
I did so on the brushed bit and tons of carbon contact debris washed out, runs much smoother and quieter.
Your comment just made my tool’s life way more better. Thank you
could you elaborate on that? I just bought the polisher and would like to properly maintain it for a long time. Do you need to take the polisher apart at all, or just spray from the outside? Do you run the machine while spraying..? Thanks!
You can buy the spray at most auto parts, electronic sensor MAF cleaner etc, or at a computer shop. A few short bursts, do not soak it. I wait a few seconds before giving it some power, let it evaporate a little. No, do not take it apart, just spray toward the motor brushes, commutator.
I do this same deal in my rc cars and airplanes.
5:48 it looks to be around the same point/very close on the balance but the angle on the molding of the Bauer is right on that point so it does not allow you to balance it.
It's right where the head gets larger right after the label
My Bauer is much quieter and smoother straight out of the box. They must have upgraded it recently from the factory. Just bought it today. I put a Rupes DA coarse blue wool 6 inch pad on it first time using it.
I’m not a professional detailer just a DIYer so I bought the Bauer DA polisher just yesterday and today this video popped up in my feed!!! Thanks for the info I will definitely try your recommendations!!
Just picked one up today and did the mod before even turning it on, used Supers Red #2 High Temp bearing grease. Runs smoothly, now I’m wondering what it felt like before. The chicom grease was just shot in and as it hadn’t been turned on (even by QC at the factory) it came out very easy. This will be my first attempt at detailing so I’m off to watch your other videos. Thanks!
Great video! I actually got here from the F-150 detail you did with all HF tools. I bought the 20mm Bauer polisher with a 25% coupon a couple weeks ago. It was only $80. I actually bought a 5" backing plate (I'm new but read amazing things about them) and I'm really excited to try everything out. Unfortunately it's been about 105 degrees every single day here in Texas, so I've been waiting for a better time. Watching this video makes me itch to get out and try it. I also subscribed since I like your take on " cheap" detailing things! Haha
Outstanding! And thank you!
I'm in Tyler TX and I feel you on the heat. Especially today. 106°F here.
Oh sick dude, I'm in DFW. I'm headed to the auto parts store right now to buy some grease lol
@@ScottHD UPDATE: Just replaced the grease in the head with Lucas Red n' Tacky grease. I bought this DA polisher about a month ago and the grease in it was way higher quality than what you showed in your video. I guess they fixed that. I'm still glad I changed it and I put the 5" backing pad on it from now on. Can't wait to use it!
changing out that cheap grease is good practice but that wasnt what stopped the vibrating. the vibration was coming from the cheap out of balance backing plate.
It would have been good to demonstrate the effect of a single variable at a time, meaning showing the effect of changing the bearing grease after reinstalling the original backing plate, then repeating the demo with the Rupes backing plate. It is difficult to imagine how the grease would have any effect on vibration, though it will very likely help the tool last longer. I just finished detailing a subcompact with the Bauer and it worked fine, though I did each of three passes on a different day, so I didn't have the problems that some people have described. I will be trying these mods before my next detailing project.
Used the Bauer today for 3 hours. My hand is hurting I stopped about 2 hours ago and still feel the effects.
@@denisef1153 There are probably differences in quality control with an inexpensive tool like this, but I suggest you read some of the comments regarding adjusting the counterweight. Your tool may not have been correctly balanced at the factory.
@@jbarner13 thanks I am going to.
Wow, sacrificing a good microfiber towel for this project. But guess the results were worth it.
Good work! Your videos are coming back to back with great content. I love the product comparisons as well as showing what can be done on a budget. Thank you!
Thank you!
I tried swapping out the grease on mine with Lucas heavy duty grease. Now it's incredibly unbalanced. Thanks I guess this video cost me a lot of $ now I have to buy a new one!!
Definitely didn't do something correctly then!
Probably the fix in the video for the vibration is the mod by replacing the old backing plate with a more well balanced backing plate. A well balanced wheel on a car definitely beats an off balance wheel on the same car in terms of the degree of vibration it creates on to the chassis.
I actually have a "Hand-Arm Vibration Meter" on order (NOT inexpensive) that will be able to tell the difference! Stay tuned!
@@ScottHD Also be sure to check after swapping the backing plate, then swap the grease & put the Bauer backing plate back on and retest, and then swap in the Rupes backing plate and then retest so we can see how much of the difference is from the backing plate and how much is the grease.
@@LegionPrime I'm going to buy another one and do it again. Purchased a "hand arm vibration meter" from England that measures this type of vibration. The EU has a set standard for it so I have something to go by.
I am using it for my upcoming cordless polishers test.
Thank you for the tip. I just changed the grease to good quality Lucas grease. Sounds quiter and feels smoother.
On my last Bauer I did what you said I put Lucas grease and a 5" backing plate it worked pretty good probably worked with it for a year... then the backing plate sheared off and shot across the room!!! I'm not sure if it had anything to do with the changes or not lol.
Did you mention that you can screw in or out the counter weight with the bauer? There is a hole on the front of it..you can fine tune it and cut back the vibration quite a bit!
I didn't mention that here but good to know!
@@ScottHD it really helps a lot..👍
How exactly can you fine tune it? I have the Bauer and I like that it’s a cheap polisher and I have it honestly to modify it and make it a great polisher without spending tons of money on an expensive one
@@oscarg5031 - You adjust the distance of the counterweight in relation to the axle. Simple trial and error no big fuzz.
When adding bigger/heavier pad or smaller/lighter pads the balance of the rotating mass change, sometimes radically. a few tries will set you back with a well balanced machine!
Same principle and reasons why you balance the wheel on a car, etc... ;-)
@@crpth1 Thank You so much. My Bauer has the hole smack in the middle.
Wow, great tip thank you. I’m a beginner detailer and want to learn to paint correct. I was skeptical about this but I’m on a budget , I will definitely be picking up this tool and your suggestion. Thanks 🙏🏾
You can do it!
Hi. I hope you got that business going. Make an Amazon wish list and make it shareable or public. You add things you wish for. Tell your family. All future gifts can be related to your detailing business
Interesting video and well done video. Changing out the grease may very well be a good idea; however, likely had little to nothing to nothing to do with the reduction in vibration, the smaller backing plate would account for that. Put the larger backing plate back on and the vibration will return.
Would be good to do a temperature test on the modded Bauer to see if the grease helped with the temperature of the head.
Good idea. I will run it this weekend on a car and see what the temps are after an hour.
There is a adjustment on counterweight to help with that I believe?
100% the real way to fix it 100%
More info please
You’d wanna try the new Griots backing plate, or even the Kamakazi backing plate. Other backing plates that would help, shinemate plates. You’ll also find from these plates the Buff and Shine pads work better than some, HDO work better than others and so forth. Which is best will be up to you but I’ve done all these plates with the new G21 ans the new Shinemate cordless. Very interesting.
You probably already know this, but the 5 inch backing plate is probably the main thing making it balanced and giving more control when in use. Reduced the weight of the head and 6 to 5 inches is a pretty significant drop to rotational force.
No clue what grease is used in the factory but I would be hesitant to use white lithium grease in the motor. It is more of a bearing grease and not meant for high temp uses. 130 c it will break down and have issues. This grease would also be very bad to use on a random orbital or anything with a linear motion going back and forth. I am not a grease expert so do your own research and if doing a modification like this make sure the grease you’re using can handle the expected conditions or your tool will not last a month.
Good and interesting video though. Definitely going to be swapping to smaller plates for similar tools. Takes longer to do jobs but I’d rather have good control over the machine.
Awesome! Thanks for the tutorial. Helps alot and I'm just a weekend warrior
Glad to help!
Another Pro Tip- might use a paper towel to dispose of the old grease instead of a nice terry towel. KUDOS for your insight.
I've used my Bauer on 20 or so cars since new. Haven't noticed much noise but will try the grease swap. Would have liked to seen the comparison with the exact same backing plate and same buffing pad. Thought that part of the review to be a bit useless.
Excellent video, I one of those machine from Harbor F, used on the hood of my truck and could not drink water from a glass because of the shaking, I am going to try doing this to my machine. Thank you very much for the info.
I did exactly this with the Lucas grease as well! Thanks for the detailed video!
I bought one of these. Changing to a 5 inch head made all the difference. I didn't even do the grease.
The grease will make it last longer
I bought a Chicago electric one a while back and that thing has a mind of its own can’t control that pos at all
That looks good if you already have that polisher, but I think I would be better in the long run if I just sprung for the HF Hercules Forced Rotation DA Polisher to begin with.
Thank you I will do this today.
Wonderful!
Is that a cast counterweight on the Bauer? Would probably explain the vibration along with cheaper bearings
It appears so. The bearings are a brand of bearing I don't recognize. (not something like NTK, timken, etc)
Not cast, sintered metal. Powdered metal pellets, pressed and then heated. The grains of the metal grow together with the heat and pressure resulting in that appearance. Gears are done like that as well. Much cheaper than casting and an order of magnitude cheaper than machining. This is not that bad, they all do it. Not just DAs, most power tools use this process
Chad Szorvas cool bit of information! Thanks!
Chad Szorvas what do you think is causing the vibration? Cheap bearings since you mention sintered metal isnt too bad?
@@ChungNguyen-rj5rf I think Scott addressed it in another comment. The backing plate seems most likely, you don't get the price down that low without some cost engineering.
Great video and I loved your recommendations but do you mind explaining why this particular type of grease? I'm just a DIYer trying to make my tool work better.
Not bashing, just curious. Did you try adjusting the factory balance before doing the mod? I'm curious if it works and if so how well.
Just be aware that the Rupes backing plate shown is not compatible with a Bauer short throw 1814E-B polisher. Different mounting configuration.
Removing the old grease is a bitch! The new grease is a definite must. I noticed the RPMs increased significantly as well, on speed 1 and 6. Bonus!
Hello Scott, I am brand spanking new to this trade and loving your videos, instruction and insights - thank you for this! Maybe a dumb question, but can the DA Bauer Polisher be used as a sanding tool?
I wouldn't use it as a sander. Thanks!
Neat, good mod! Seems like good maintenance practice in general. I just brought home a vibrating Chamberlain Waxmaster model 1100 that I have to research on how to repair. Wondering if similar design. Will find out and try to report on in an upload video or two when I get around to making. Thanks for sharing!
Hi friend
I did same what you did on my DA polisher but it start vibration very bad its looks like out of balance! What to do to fix it.
Thanks
Hi was doing this switch like your video but there is a small little barring ball that came out but don't know we're it belongs it fell out of place when i removed the backing plate screws can you please help ?
There's adjustable balance weights on the Bauer
You forgot that there is an adgustable weight inside the machine to balance it even better using the supplied wrench that came with the machine.
Willie. Whats the procedure for adjusting the weight for best balance? Thanks in advance
Doubt it will have any significant effect without taking off or adding any weight on the counterweight.
12:15 you never showed the new backing plate. Did that fix the wobble?
I use Lucas white lithium grease a lot and it’s good but would high temp automotive grease not work better? Idk. I do know that made a huge difference
Is the white lithium grease worthwhile doing on a rupes MKIII LHR15? Or only after years of use?
Only after a lot of use. It's the same grease they use in them when you send them off for a rebuild
@@ScottHD thanks mate love your channel and vids great content and proper evaluation and analysis 😍
Isn’t the Bauer DA a 21mm throw? So the 15mm backing plate is not a reduction in performance?
Great Video. Thanks for helping keep the hobby not too spendy. I don't have the Bauer yet but it seems like a nice addition to my garage without breaking the bank. :^) I am just a weekend warrior upkeeping 3 family cars.
Wondering if you have other better quality/balanced 5" backing plates in your shop. It would be interesting to see how they other major Consumer Level Brands backing plates compare to the Rupes in balancing the Bauer. I see many like Meguiars, Griot's, Torque, Chemical Guys, etc with 5" plates (some with holes and some without). I assume the ones with holes may be of better quality and help dissipate the heat better. Maybe a good video idea.
We love the Rupes backing plates on our Rupes polishers and non Rupes polishers. The Bauer - if you watch for a coupon - can be had as cheap as $79 or $89. I've usually seen it around black friday.
The holes are supposed to help dissipate heat better yes.
I also changed the grease out in the Bauer and it made a world of difference with the heat.
@@ScottHD thanks for the reminder about black Friday coming up. I'll watch the coupons at HF
Great tips. For the ~$100 polisher with $50 in mods, do you think it might be better to just get a Griots G9 for $160? Looking to get one or the other soon.
Man I just bought this from HF but I’m thinking if I should return it and get a Griots G9. I should have done my research more and ordered a G9. To me it seems like a G9 is ready to go out the box and balanced well.
@@FishingWithJo415 9mm vs 20mm throw though.
I’m wondering the same myself. Any updates, what route did you go?
@@chrisfrerichs8360 The G9 has a 6” back so you still have to buy a 5” if that’s the route you take. I myself did end up buying the G9 and bought the $55 5” conversion kit that comes with pads off Amazon. Auto Zone offers a military discount so I saved a few bucks. So does O’Reilly’s.
@@assocpress how do you like it?
Quelle modèle de plate de 5 pouces va sur la bauer et ou peut-on l acheter au Québec
Doesn't the baur have an adjustable balancing block? I think I see it. Where you stuck the hex key in and turn to adjust
Thanks for the video. Btw, where did you get that blue bucket on the floor? Is it from detailed image, or did you just put the sticker on it?
You're welcome. It's a kit from detailed image but they sell just the stickers too!
Awesome video! Thanks!
Link to Rupes backing plate says it will “only” fit Rupes machine. Just want to be sure it’s the right one. :)
Oh course it "only" fits their polisher 😂 yes it fits the Bauer!
Is there a part number for the 5" backing plate?
Is this Bauer polisher better than the old porter cable cheapie? I just ask because I bought the PC like 10 years ago and never used it. I'm getting ready to clean up my 2 old cars to sell and full paint correct my newer Lexus. Should I sell the PC and get the Bauer?
Probably more effective approach in reducing vibration is to basically to start off with checking and replacing any tired bearing having any slack in the rotating assembly.
I'm going to guess the bearings are going to be the weak spot here.
Where do I get a 5” backing plate? I have that Bauer rotary polisher but it comes with a 6” backing plate the stock one. That’s what it says on the box I changed out my grease to red lithium high temp grease though. But can’t seem to find any of the backing plates that take the Allen wrench bolt type? And also why are you using the 7” pads on that supposedly 6” rotary polisher backing plate?
Understood. The 5 or 5.5" backing plates use 6" pads. The 6" backing plate uses a 7" pad. That extra inch hangs over the edge by 1/2" on the edge. They've always been doing it that way for some reason
@@ScottHD I got done watching your videos on the Bauer da rotary polisher where you add on the rupes 5” backing plate where it has great results. Would you mind if you shared your link on which to get sir? Some local stores here don’t carry 5” cutting pads or fine foam pads. Just 6” Bauer cutting pads to fine foam. Man those RUPES products aren’t cheap too. I did my whole car awhile back it’s a black 2014 camry and man I brought the paint back to life. I watched your vid when you restored that black ford trucks paint. I used meguairs ultra cut compound and meguairs polish from orielly that white bottle one still did absolute results.
Does the torq22 backing plate fit the Bauer
Not sure on that one. If it fits the Rupes polishers, it will fit this.
That was funny. I said dang that was a night and day difference and then you shut it off and said the same thing. You're not lying it was sir
Absolutely... Glad it did the trick for you!
Anyone know what bearings to get to replace the stock ones?
dang awesome man!!!! I just bought one today from hbf i gotta do that! thank you for sharing.
It's worth doing for sure!
@@ScottHD where can I get the backing pad and the grease from? thank you I really appreciate it.
@@jimmysegovia2688 check the video description. Link is in there 👍🏼 (if you don't see it, there's a little arrow next to the title you have to click on and it will expand the description)
@@ScottHD cool thanks, man! gonna get that product.
I wonder if it was the grease or the pad
Both, likely!
Scott,
I have a Griot's G6 with a 5" backing plate. How much paint correction time can I cut if I added the Bauer and do these mods to it?
How can you like this, but not answer it?
I'm a litte late but I really hope you see this my question is if I just change it the grease will that make a difference too or do I need to change the backing plate to a 5 inch or in my case I would like a 3 inch
Not sure what you did to correct the vibration apart from the $30 replacement pad ! Also, if I were to change the grease I would go for a helical application moly spec.
do youuse 6in pads with the 5in back plate
Would this void the warranty? The grease?
Would it void a 90 day warranty? Yes, most likely.
great video man!
If I'll replace the grease, but will keep the "stock" backing plate, would it make any difference?
In my country I cant reach it...but I have similar chinese DA and it is vibrating as hell
I think the grease alone won't help the vibration. Look at a video I posted a few weeks ago about the update on the vibration (using measuring devices) to show you what's best for it.
Where can I get 5” pads to put on Bauer buffer. Does H freight sell them
Can I use brake grease instead of white lithium grease?
I wouldn't suggest it, but I guess as long as it can survive some pretty hot temperatures it "could" work?
Hi Scott, I justa subscribed to your channel and the video is very interesting, I have the same Bauer machine and I will make the changes as you indicated but I would like to know if the 5.7 amp Bauer, which is smaller, can be improved. If it can be improved, could you make a video?
What does switching the backing plate do?
I see HF now has a Bauer long throw, $99 on sale. I’d like to see what you think
That's this one now. Price has dropped
@@ScottHD oh got it, i thought you were working on the smaller one.
@@wadetaylor3195 no sir. The big one!
Thanks for the vid! ( enjoyed the soundtrack too👍🏻)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey what do you recommend!
The Rupes gear driven or the Flex gear driven ?
I already have the Rupes random orbital !
Would red n tacky be OK to work on this?
Not 100% sure, but it can't be worse than what was in there.
This is what I was thinking of using. Did you end up using that?
Awesome vid scott!! What are the exact specs on that rupes backing plate.? Just LHR 15-5"?
Correct. Link in video description.
@@ScottHD thanks
Did you need to push the spindle lock in to take it out?
Awesome video Scott! Thanks for the idea.
One problem I have with my DA is the clutch stops the head spinning with only the weight of the DA. Any way to make the clutch less weak?
Where do you see a clutch? Just curious. Or are you talking about when the head stops spinning and looks like it's standing still when you're using the polisher? That's a normal aspect of DA polishers, and usually means either you're pressing too hard, or are on a hard edge, or the tool is underpowered. Usually its one of the first two issues. Which is why they also make direct drive DA polishers...with a fixed gear rotation, these won't stall out like the random orbit polishers.
@@BigBear-- thanks for the info. Even with light pressure mine stops sometimes so I'm guessing it's underpowered. It's an off brand so that's probably why. It's fine for polishing but hard to do and cutting or paint correction with. I was wondering if there was anything I can do to fix it but sounds like it's not really adjustable. Thanks
I did the grease change on the Bauer last year. Due to the fact I had so many 6” pads I finally got the 5” Rupes backing plate. And it does make more of a difference in the reduction of vibration. Plus the Rupes backing plate is a much higher quality plate. I did want to ask I was planning on getting a better DA polisher. And I was curious as an enthusiast would you recommend the Bigfoot or pay the extra few and get the Mark III.
Save those money and get a shinemate 620.. much more powerful motor and less stalling.. the shinemate got 1200watt motor while the rupes only 500watt.
I’m just a do it yourself-er and after these mods, it still vibrates a little too much in my opinion. Maybe I got a bad one. I won’t use it. Will just spend the money on a griots for this reason.
Is that that bauer 20 mm long throw polisher?
It is!
So Bauer is balanced cuz you changed the grease.
i feel like moly grease would have been better, but an upgrade from that garbage grease either way.
I used Mobil 1 grease
Hi Scott, I want to cut and buff my freshly painted car( 6mos. Old). What pads and compound would you recommend. I certainly will invest in a Bauer Polisher and Rupes 5” pad for this project. And would you cut with 1500 wet?
Has it had any sanding done to it after painting?
@@ScottHD No, just been sitting in storage after an all over paint job, I am putting it all back together as we speak. I have restored many vehicles in the past, just never had the balls to sand and polish fresh paint before. They usually come out very nice but this time around I painted it and not my expert painter and my finish has zero to heavy orange peel including some areas where the clear feels dry.
@@ze_german2921 hopefully there is a lot of clear coat to work with. Definitely wetsand/sand with 1500/2000/3000 followed by a coarse cutting microfiber pad and an agressive polish like Meguiars M105 or Shine Supply Chop Top, and finish out with a fine pad and polish (Rupes yellow pad)
@@ScottHD thank you very much! I will let you know how it went!
@@ScottHD hello Scott, i decided to re-clear the car since I still had it all apart and give me enough cushion to level the Clear coat. I just wet sanded everything with 1500 and will follow up with p3000 today. What would you recommend for polishing Compound? Also the car is Pure Black, non-metallic. Would you just use M205?
You must have gotten lucky. I just did the exact same things to my new polisher and it vibrates just as bad. Ordered the exact same rupes backing plate and everything. Weird.