Hi Stuart. Speaking from experience. Invest in tile backer board to replace e the plasterboard around your bath and shower. Also use a rubber aquastop type product around the bottom of a bath or shower tray. Plasterboard will rott smell and grow mould if it gets wet.
Always use backer board and water proof membrane around shower areas - Tiling directly onto plasterboard in these areas will be a disaster waiting to happen
That self levelling system is amazing and makes it very simple for a diyer like myself to get a professional finish. I recommend sticking with a 1mm spacer and then use standard spacers at the required size on top of the tile. That way you don’t need 1mm, 2mm, 3mm levelling spacers. Also you get a tighter, and more accurate, grout joint as a result
Someone has been a busy chap, good work Stuart ! I bought some new flooring from Harry's Tiles last week, I had to be careful to lay it all in One Direction !
Some good points there. But as an ex tiler I’d never tile around a toilet. Far easier to take away, tile and re install. Love the tile levelling spacers and wedges, first time I’ve heard about them. Will ask my old suppliers if they sell them.
When you say toilet, do you mean the bath, cistern, WC or all, as I'd maybe be thinking there's a bit of a risk of cracking some tiles with the weight of the WC and (heavy) person if tiling under a WC?
one of my fave DIYers on UA-cam always clear and concise and easy to follow no taking forever to get to the point like many others, and making it so for someone like me an average DIYer its not so daunting and feels like hey I can give that a go, so cheers, and the silly music on the intro reminds me of the old comedy Desmonds 🤣(maybe thats just me)
A good intro to tiling! I assume there are more to come ;o) One thing you didn't cover was the placing of the tiles to get best coverage. On smaller tiles 6" or so it makes little difference, but on the larger format tiles it can make a difference on quantity and look! Apologies if you are planning to cover this in the future but starting on an wall edge with a full tile will mean you have problems if your wall is not dead square and plumb, so you end up cutting the edge to fit. When you get to the opposite end (especially if you are tiling into a corner) you will need to be cutting the tiles to fit ....... and if you are trying to cut a 18" tile to a 1" depth you are going to hit problems. The same is true with the top and bottom (Bath and ceiling) ..... working out how many tiles you will get on a run both (horizontal and vertical) will allow you to get the right number of tiles and to have it look symmetrical ...... Handy even if you don't have OCD!
10:05 - The thing is, a percentage of the _area_ (like 10% of the total) will tend to be excessive if the wall is big and potentially not enough if the wall is small (because the wastage depends on the _edge_ length, not the total area). If you know the size of the tiles you'll be using, you can actually calculate exactly how many you'll need (with a bit of modular arithmetic), but it gets complicated when you need to tile around multiple shapes. I suspect there's an app for that, though, where you just draw the shapes, it checks which tiles will need to be cut and whether the off-cuts can be used somewhere else.
Didn’t think I would see anything new but I did! Those floor clip thingys look really nifty. Will be giving them a try soon. Thanks Stuart! Also enjoyed hearing you do math 😚
Good one. I have in the past calculated the number of tile by measuring the wall in "tile units" rather than metres and rounded up to allow for the trimmed tile. I like your tip on the spacers, I never thought of it.
I love a complete video (definitely saving this video for later)! Could you please talk about what to do with tools and materials after using them? Like how to clean the tools and bucket without destroying my sink, what to do with the extra adhesive (mixed or still in the bag)... etc
I retiled a shower room in my park home. Removal of the old ones was a big problem. As the house is timber and has to travel the tiles had been stuck on with silicon. This allows them to move slightly I expect. Took me ages. I stuck the new ones on with silicon after first sealing the walls with a liquid rubber solution. Expensive, yes, but very clean. For new shower I'd recommend the type that has an up and over rainfall incorporating a hand held which are interchangeable at the turn of a tap.
I had an argument with a contracted tiler about the spacers being left in in the corners. He said he's been working for 20 years and knows what he's doing. Judging by the quality of the tiling he has clearly learnt shit for the last 20 years. Banged out a 6x5m kitchen in 3 hours. When I complained about the quality of the fitting as so many were at different heights he blamed it on bowing on the tiles. I got it from tops tiles. 60x60 tiles. When placing them flat against each other they were OK. One or two i might inderstand but not all of them! I suggested he didn't take care and time to get it right. He says not to tell him how to do his job. I got 2nd and 3rd opinion and they confirmed it wasn't great. Why is southend full of cowboy builders.
they’re everywhere. i saved around £20-30k by doing things myself, its not easy to do some things the first time, sometimes you need to rip it out and start over but the satisfaction you get when you finish is second to none. the only thing i wont touch is electrics. i always get an electrician out 😂
aaaaaah tiling... another job that has been added to the list "christ I never want to do that again but know I have too!" 🤣 Another great video Stuart, thanks very much! 👍
I always recommend tiling behind all the appliances because otherwise if you come to replace any appliances, you don't want to have to re-tile the room because the tiles required to just fill in the little bit are no longer available. The extra cost of the tiles is minima and clearly it might actually be quicker due to less cutting around appliances. I never work on the basis of the square metreage as properly setting out the tiles to accommodate fitting positions etc. Doing it by the square metre + an allowance is real risky guesswork especially if you then have a pattern to contend with. Tile batches can be very slightly different especially if its a special feature colour so its very important vto get all the tiles in one trip to ensure they are from the same batch, otherwise you risk having patches in the tilework. For all the areas of tiling I now specify the use of cementitious tile backer board for walls or traditionally sand/cement render and a debonding layer for the floor like Schluter Ditra and for wet areas on walls Schluter Kerdi or similar. This spec is not expensive and resolves all the main issues with tile failures that may not be noticeable for years but when it is it will be a major refurb.
I know this is only a *what* to use video and now a *how* to lesson, but… The wedges are great but not perfect: 1) They align the tiles to each other - but they don’t level them. The level must still be checked. 2) the grout lines can quickly fill up w adhesive and plastic detritus from the clips so it’s worth wiping adhesive from along the edge of the tile before installing clips. 3) your video showed another issue - As you push in the wedge, it can move the tiles away from each other so there’s a knack to keeping them tight as you insert the wedge. The Pliers help. 4) Spacing. I’d avoid relying on them for spacing as accumulation of adhesive around the clip can affect that. Instead, I’ve learnt to buy the thinnest clips available and supplement them with the correct spacers. A secondary benefit I’ve found is the thinner clips break easier and leave less cluttered grout lines. *a cheap carpet/Lino hooked knife or old dental pick is great for cleaning around clips once set in place
Pro tip. Never use the leveling system as a spacing system too. They tent to move the tiles when tightening. Always go under size and use spacers for the required joint size.
For knee protection, I just use one of those pads you can get for gardening. Personally I like both my knees but hate knee pads on my trousers so the gardening pad does the job for me
I used the wedgie system for small tiles (100x200mm), in a half overlapping pattern and I would say the tiles were a little too small for that use. I would put in 6 wedgies per tile (one each on the short side, and two each on the long sides, connecting them with all six neighbouring tiles, and they often got in each others way. For that size tiles the system where the base has a threaded "pin" on which you screw the reusable leveler would probably work better.
I'd use a tanking solution on it before tiling personally. £50 for a kit from screw fix, small extra cost in the grand scheme of things when doing a whole bathroom for peace of mind.
Very opportune as I'm going to have some tiling to do soon which I feel comfortable to have a go at & even more so now. Could you tell the so called professional that did my ensuite about the spacers they were an added surprise when stripping the old tiles out 🙄 If you fancy a topic, plumbing would be good, I've got a few bits where I'm changing a shower tray and vanity unit so the drains won't quite align with the old ones, any advice?
I once spent half a day cutting tiles with an angle grinder and then sanding the edges (to make a tabletop - it came out great, BTW). With no gloves on. Later that day I repaired a couple of big concrete tanks with waterproof cement. With no gloves on. The next day I discovered that a) tile "dust" is actually more like ceramic needles and b) cement dust that gets into microscopic holes in your skin expands as it cures. That discovery was really driven home over the following two or three days, which was how long it took for the palms of my hands to stop looking like cork and feeling like they were on fire.
Love the show. When are you going to build an insulated shed or cabin? There are so many confusing vids out there around u-values and the electrical regs. And data cabling and alarm systems etc.
I thought that 'best practice' was to fully tile the wall before fitting the WC/cistern rather than install them first and then tile around them? Or am I wrong?
Oh yeah, i always do a very good job. Tilling is just something that didn't interest me. I'm mechanically minded and enjoy technical work such as rebuilding truck differentials on the side of the road etc...
Somehow this doesn't make any sense, even though it does make sense what you told us. If you want to have your bathroom kind of waterproof you'd want to first lay tiles wherever you want to have tiles (walls, floor) and afterwards install the toilet, the sink and the bathtub, wouldn't you? Or you would dismount toilet, sink and bathtub for tiling and re-mount them afterwards again. To me that seems more logical and gives less room for spaces to collect moisture. You'd need less silicon rims to keep things sealed all around, especially with drywall which is less common here in Germany yet. Things may change.
Always tile BEHIND the cystine. Why? Because one day you are going to replace the cystine and “pounds to peanuts” you will have a hole where you didn’t tile behind the old cystine and GUESS WHAT? Only last month you finally threw out all those old tiles that have been cluttering up the garage. After all why do you need them? I write this from experience. 😕🙁
Hi Stuart. Speaking from experience. Invest in tile backer board to replace e the plasterboard around your bath and shower. Also use a rubber aquastop type product around the bottom of a bath or shower tray. Plasterboard will rott smell and grow mould if it gets wet.
Backer board every time.
Always use backer board and water proof membrane around shower areas - Tiling directly onto plasterboard in these areas will be a disaster waiting to happen
Yes, it is. I've inherited someone's mistake.
That self levelling system is amazing and makes it very simple for a diyer like myself to get a professional finish. I recommend sticking with a 1mm spacer and then use standard spacers at the required size on top of the tile. That way you don’t need 1mm, 2mm, 3mm levelling spacers. Also you get a tighter, and more accurate, grout joint as a result
Someone has been a busy chap, good work Stuart !
I bought some new flooring from Harry's Tiles last week, I had to be careful to lay it all in One Direction !
You are the master of masters! Excellent quality, thanks.
Those wedges look really fantastic. I've never seen them before. They'll make tiling much more enjoyable for me.
Some good points there. But as an ex tiler I’d never tile around a toilet. Far easier to take away, tile and re install. Love the tile levelling spacers and wedges, first time I’ve heard about them. Will ask my old suppliers if they sell them.
When you say toilet, do you mean the bath, cistern, WC or all, as I'd maybe be thinking there's a bit of a risk of cracking some tiles with the weight of the WC and (heavy) person if tiling under a WC?
@@Doovde69 WC Cistern.
Should never crack if tiled properly
one of my fave DIYers on UA-cam always clear and concise and easy to follow no taking forever to get to the point like many others, and making it so for someone like me an average DIYer its not so daunting and feels like hey I can give that a go, so cheers, and the silly music on the intro reminds me of the old comedy Desmonds 🤣(maybe thats just me)
A good intro to tiling!
I assume there are more to come ;o)
One thing you didn't cover was the placing of the tiles to get best coverage. On smaller tiles 6" or so it makes little difference, but on the larger format tiles it can make a difference on quantity and look! Apologies if you are planning to cover this in the future but starting on an wall edge with a full tile will mean you have problems if your wall is not dead square and plumb, so you end up cutting the edge to fit. When you get to the opposite end (especially if you are tiling into a corner) you will need to be cutting the tiles to fit ....... and if you are trying to cut a 18" tile to a 1" depth you are going to hit problems. The same is true with the top and bottom (Bath and ceiling) ..... working out how many tiles you will get on a run both (horizontal and vertical) will allow you to get the right number of tiles and to have it look symmetrical ...... Handy even if you don't have OCD!
10:05 - The thing is, a percentage of the _area_ (like 10% of the total) will tend to be excessive if the wall is big and potentially not enough if the wall is small (because the wastage depends on the _edge_ length, not the total area).
If you know the size of the tiles you'll be using, you can actually calculate exactly how many you'll need (with a bit of modular arithmetic), but it gets complicated when you need to tile around multiple shapes.
I suspect there's an app for that, though, where you just draw the shapes, it checks which tiles will need to be cut and whether the off-cuts can be used somewhere else.
As always a great and informative video Stuart - thanks. I've never tiled, but if I ever have to, I now know where to start. Cheers.
Didn’t think I would see anything new but I did! Those floor clip thingys look really nifty. Will be giving them a try soon. Thanks Stuart! Also enjoyed hearing you do math 😚
Good one. I have in the past calculated the number of tile by measuring the wall in "tile units" rather than metres and rounded up to allow for the trimmed tile.
I like your tip on the spacers, I never thought of it.
Great video. I've always wanted to have a go at tiling myself. Would love to see more videos on this. Thank you so much.
Looking forward to more tiling videos, I really wanted to have a go myself
All coming
I love a complete video (definitely saving this video for later)!
Could you please talk about what to do with tools and materials after using them? Like how to clean the tools and bucket without destroying my sink, what to do with the extra adhesive (mixed or still in the bag)... etc
I retiled a shower room in my park home. Removal of the old ones was a big problem. As the house is timber and has to travel the tiles had been stuck on with silicon. This allows them to move slightly I expect. Took me ages. I stuck the new ones on with silicon after first sealing the walls with a liquid rubber solution. Expensive, yes, but very clean. For new shower I'd recommend the type that has an up and over rainfall incorporating a hand held which are interchangeable at the turn of a tap.
Great video as always Stuart I think the first time I tiled I put the spacers in corners lol!
I had an argument with a contracted tiler about the spacers being left in in the corners. He said he's been working for 20 years and knows what he's doing. Judging by the quality of the tiling he has clearly learnt shit for the last 20 years. Banged out a 6x5m kitchen in 3 hours. When I complained about the quality of the fitting as so many were at different heights he blamed it on bowing on the tiles. I got it from tops tiles. 60x60 tiles. When placing them flat against each other they were OK. One or two i might inderstand but not all of them! I suggested he didn't take care and time to get it right. He says not to tell him how to do his job. I got 2nd and 3rd opinion and they confirmed it wasn't great. Why is southend full of cowboy builders.
they’re everywhere. i saved around £20-30k by doing things myself, its not easy to do some things the first time, sometimes you need to rip it out and start over but the satisfaction you get when you finish is second to none. the only thing i wont touch is electrics. i always get an electrician out 😂
Any chance of video of the tiling in progress? Well explained clear and helpful,thank you sir 😊
Great video once again, thanks UA-cam Dad!
aaaaaah tiling... another job that has been added to the list "christ I never want to do that again but know I have too!" 🤣
Another great video Stuart, thanks very much! 👍
This is exactly the info I needed at exactly the right time, cheers Stuart!
What a great video and series. Looking forward to the next one
Look forward to this series as I haven’t got the first clue about tiling 🤪
I always recommend tiling behind all the appliances because otherwise if you come to replace any appliances, you don't want to have to re-tile the room because the tiles required to just fill in the little bit are no longer available. The extra cost of the tiles is minima and clearly it might actually be quicker due to less cutting around appliances.
I never work on the basis of the square metreage as properly setting out the tiles to accommodate fitting positions etc. Doing it by the square metre + an allowance is real risky guesswork especially if you then have a pattern to contend with. Tile batches can be very slightly different especially if its a special feature colour so its very important vto get all the tiles in one trip to ensure they are from the same batch, otherwise you risk having patches in the tilework.
For all the areas of tiling I now specify the use of cementitious tile backer board for walls or traditionally sand/cement render and a debonding layer for the floor like Schluter Ditra and for wet areas on walls Schluter Kerdi or similar. This spec is not expensive and resolves all the main issues with tile failures that may not be noticeable for years but when it is it will be a major refurb.
Excellent as always thank you Stuart 👍
I know this is only a *what* to use video and now a *how* to lesson, but…
The wedges are great but not perfect:
1) They align the tiles to each other - but they don’t level them. The level must still be checked.
2) the grout lines can quickly fill up w adhesive and plastic detritus from the clips so it’s worth wiping adhesive from along the edge of the tile before installing clips.
3) your video showed another issue - As you push in the wedge, it can move the tiles away from each other so there’s a knack to keeping them tight as you insert the wedge. The Pliers help.
4) Spacing. I’d avoid relying on them for spacing as accumulation of adhesive around the clip can affect that. Instead, I’ve learnt to buy the thinnest clips available and supplement them with the correct spacers. A secondary benefit I’ve found is the thinner clips break easier and leave less cluttered grout lines.
*a cheap carpet/Lino hooked knife or old dental pick is great for cleaning around clips once set in place
Pro tip. Never use the leveling system as a spacing system too. They tent to move the tiles when tightening. Always go under size and use spacers for the required joint size.
For knee protection, I just use one of those pads you can get for gardening. Personally I like both my knees but hate knee pads on my trousers so the gardening pad does the job for me
I used the wedgie system for small tiles (100x200mm), in a half overlapping pattern and I would say the tiles were a little too small for that use. I would put in 6 wedgies per tile (one each on the short side, and two each on the long sides, connecting them with all six neighbouring tiles, and they often got in each others way. For that size tiles the system where the base has a threaded "pin" on which you screw the reusable leveler would probably work better.
Is it recommended having plaster board against the back of a bath?? Just thinking when the bath seal fails, any moisture will blow out that board.
I'd use a tanking solution on it before tiling personally. £50 for a kit from screw fix, small extra cost in the grand scheme of things when doing a whole bathroom for peace of mind.
Just about to tile my downstairs bathroom. It's like you're a mindreader Stuart...
Very opportune as I'm going to have some tiling to do soon which I feel comfortable to have a go at & even more so now.
Could you tell the so called professional that did my ensuite about the spacers they were an added surprise when stripping the old tiles out 🙄
If you fancy a topic, plumbing would be good, I've got a few bits where I'm changing a shower tray and vanity unit so the drains won't quite align with the old ones, any advice?
Great video !! thanks
Your workshop sure looks great as a bathroom 😉😉
I once spent half a day cutting tiles with an angle grinder and then sanding the edges (to make a tabletop - it came out great, BTW). With no gloves on.
Later that day I repaired a couple of big concrete tanks with waterproof cement. With no gloves on.
The next day I discovered that a) tile "dust" is actually more like ceramic needles and b) cement dust that gets into microscopic holes in your skin expands as it cures.
That discovery was really driven home over the following two or three days, which was how long it took for the palms of my hands to stop looking like cork and feeling like they were on fire.
Love the show. When are you going to build an insulated shed or cabin? There are so many confusing vids out there around u-values and the electrical regs. And data cabling and alarm systems etc.
Watch oakwood garden rooms
@@johngoodchild6949 love those guys (and gal!)
Great advice, again
Surely for what it’s worth you need to tile behind the toilet not deduct it as an obstruction.
Plaster board around the shower? sholdn't tha tbe an aquapanel?
Yeap but depends on quality of grout and seal of tile but belt & braces aqua is better
I did my bathroom. Never again lol.
I thought that 'best practice' was to fully tile the wall before fitting the WC/cistern rather than install them first and then tile around them? Or am I wrong?
You're correct. He made it all look very simple, which in reality it isn't!
how do you know where to start / set out? you missed the most important bit
I still don’t get why people don’t tile behind and under the bath, behind the bog etc. It adds an extra insulation from leaks…
Great video again but but I was shown how to do it by Bonnie 😂
You keep making videos about projects I'm about to start, it's very weird.
Most people would remove the toilet, so there’s no cuts & get a better finish, with less cuts.
Viewers may find this of interest:
m.ua-cam.com/video/Way5bMh-eYg/v-deo.html
Note those spacers at 5:00.
I don't do tilling. I still have grouting to do in my kitchen for tiles i put on the wall two years ago. I just can't do it.
But the good news is your tiles are still there two year later. Perhaps not that bad a job!
Oh yeah, i always do a very good job. Tilling is just something that didn't interest me. I'm mechanically minded and enjoy technical work such as rebuilding truck differentials on the side of the road etc...
It's sort of practice.
Somehow this doesn't make any sense, even though it does make sense what you told us. If you want to have your bathroom kind of waterproof you'd want to first lay tiles wherever you want to have tiles (walls, floor) and afterwards install the toilet, the sink and the bathtub, wouldn't you? Or you would dismount toilet, sink and bathtub for tiling and re-mount them afterwards again. To me that seems more logical and gives less room for spaces to collect moisture. You'd need less silicon rims to keep things sealed all around, especially with drywall which is less common here in Germany yet. Things may change.
Always tile BEHIND the cystine. Why? Because one day you are going to replace the cystine and “pounds to peanuts” you will have a hole where you didn’t tile behind the old cystine and GUESS WHAT? Only last month you finally threw out all those old tiles that have been cluttering up the garage. After all why do you need them? I write this from experience. 😕🙁
At least a year on, good advice still relevant, but have you gained enough experience now to know that it’s a cistern not a cystine? 😂
usually like your videos but please, please tell people DO NOT TILE OVER PLASTERBOARD!!
If able, Tile before you fit your crockery. All the cutting in around sinks, toilets baths etc. will add too much time, and leave a poorer result.
Always install the bath and shower before tiling, you will never stop them leaking if you put them over the tiles. Fit toilet and basin after tiling.
Took me 40 years to get a Paddle.😟
I read that as paddie, and I’m thinking, “I need a labourer too”
I'm not convinced that is actually your bathroom.
3.8? Just round it up to 4m2 so you’ve got adequate for not just cuts and wastage but also defective tiles!