I have a semi built raptor 660r with factory sprocket teeth count. It has great tourqe. But i would love a bit more speed with out losing the tourque .whats my best option.
If anyone can help me, I climb a monster hill everyday with slippery clay. Will a large 51 teeth rear sprocket help? Or will it slip even more? I've got a crf 250 and have enough power to climb but am slipping a lot.
I have a 2018 crf250r and I'm kinda a slow rider. I notice when I come into the corners the bottom end seems to drop off. Stock gears are 13 front 48 rear. Would 50 or 51 be better for me and my style of riding. Tracks and trails all have super soft sugar sand. Thanks
You forgot to point out that gears MULTIPLY torque. For example, a numerically higher ratio multiplies torque more than a numerically lower ratio. Thus, lower gears provide more torque multiplication than higher gears.
That doesn't matter since he was only talking about final gearing. Do not throw your money away changing the sockets. This will only make 2 results: 1. this will improve starting off (launching) 2. this will increase your RPM in top gear at highway speeds. Changing the sprockets is changing the final gearing on your cycle. Changing the final gearing means nothing. What really matters is overall gearing. Overall gearing is everything from the engine to the rear tire. Overall gearing is a affected by these areas: 1. Primary drive ratio between crankshaft and transmission. 2. Manual Transmission 3. Drive sprockets (final gearing) It is a very common misunderstanding that changing the sprockets will mean you'll always have lower gearing. That is not true. You have a manual transmission. That allows you to have what ever gear ratio you want. If you like the power of low gearing then don't shift until redline for all I care. Shifting at redline is not what you really want unless you are drag racing. My point is you can decide how high you want your RPM to go before shifting. If you like low RPM for fuel efficiency shift early and keep your RPMs low. Once you get in top gear you can't shift up any more. That's why I say changing the sprockets will affect the RPM on the highway.
In other words, you'd be right if you ONLY changed the sprockets (final gearing) but continued to change gears at the same time (shifting into 4th gear at 43 MPH) you'd be at higher RPM when you changed gears.
@@BusaDave correct - up to a point. An engine's torque is multiplied by OVERALL gearing i.e. primary drive ratio * (# rear sprocket teeth / # front sprocket teeth). Primary drive ratio changes with gear selection. Lower gears (higher numerically) multiply torque at a given rpm by that higher factor. For example, if we look up the first gear ratio, it might be something like 2.5:1; yet, top gear might be about 1:1. If at a given rpm the engine makes say 10 ft-lbs of torque, that 10 ft-lbs gets multiplied by 2.5 in first gear * the sprockets secondary gears ratio (maybe 3.5: 1, depending on installed sprockets). Thus, 10 ft-lbs * 2.5 first gear ratio * 3.5 rear-sprocket teeth/front-sprocket teeth = 87.5 ft-lbs in first gear ... but only 10 ft-lbs * 1 in top gear * 3.5 rear-sprocket teeth/front-sprocket teeth in top gear (at that same rpm) = 35 ft-lbs. That's why vehicles can't accelerate as hard in top gear as in a lower gears. Torque multiplication via gearing is not limited to motorcycles. It is the reason that a tractor with a puny little 4 cylinder engine can pull tree stumps! The little bit or torque, produced by the 4-cylinder engine, is GREATLY multiplied by very low (numerically large) tree-stump pulling gears. I suspect that those who think that they need powerful liter+ bikes simply aren't comfortable downshifting for passing power, hill climbing etc.; they expect the engine to have the desired power (for passing, hill climbing etc.) in TOP gear! btw, maximum acceleration involves shifting at the power PEAK - which is often BELOW the red-line (seen on dynamometer charts); this is where road racers shift, for example.
you too are correct up to a point. When talking about overall gearing we are talking about a high spinning crankshaft in the engine geared down to a wheel that is rotating at a much slower rate. If you are riding 45 MPH and your engine is running at 3500 RPM that alone tells us the overall gearing. Think about that. Then engine makes so many revolutions per revolution of the rear tire. It makes no difference what so ever if the bike is in 3rd gear and has very tall final gearing (sprockets) or if the bike is in 4th gear and has very low final gearing. Either way the OVERALL gearing is the same if the bike is going 45 MPH and the engine is running at 3500 RPM. Think about what I said carefully.
@@BusaDave At any given speed (say 45 mph) downshifting (for more torque multiplication) INCREASES engine rpm; that's why downshifting at any given speed requires a throttle blip - to match/raise engine rpm with the road speed, preventing jerking the bike (nose-diving) when downshifting.
Chase I gotta say you may be the hardest working dude in this industry. Always great videos. You go so hard sometimes your eyes look tired. God bless you
On a 125 at least that’s actually pretty aggressive on torque, I run 17/34 for top speed and it still pulls hard enough to pass cars on 40-45mph side streets. It depends on internal hearing too I guess, but this is essentially a pit bike with street fairings I’m on.
I messed something up, I installed the front sprocket on my front wheel and I can't get the chain to stay on. Every time I turn the handlebars the chain slips off...
Realize you are only talking about final gearing! Do not throw your money away changing the sockets. This will only make 2 results: 1. this will improve starting off (launching) 2. this will increase your RPM in top gear at highway speeds. Changing the sprockets is changing the final gearing on your cycle. Changing the final gearing means nothing. What really matters is overall gearing. Overall gearing is everything from the engine to the rear tire. Overall gearing is a affected by these areas: 1. Manual Transmission 2. Drive sprockets (final gearing) 3. Tire size. It is a very common misunderstanding that changing the sprockets will mean you'll always have lower gearing. That is not true. You have a manual transmission. That allows you to have what ever gear ratio you want. If you like the power of low gearing then don't shift until redline for all I care. Shifting at redline is not what you really want unless you are drag racing. My point is you can decide how high you want your RPM to go before shifting. If you like low RPM for fuel efficiency shift early and keep your RPMs low. Once you get in top gear you can't shift up any more. That's why I say changing the sprockets will affect the RPM on the highway.
Stock 15T/45T to 15T/47T and stock 140/60-R17 to 140/70-R17 Hello there, I am from Bangladesh and I have a motorbike called "Suzuki Gixxer 155cc 2014". My bike has a ground clearance of 160mm. Problem is I often get pounded at the bottom part of my bike in many uneven speed breaker in my country due to this very short ground clearance. Many in our country has overcame this issue by simply upgrading the rear tire size from 140/60-R17 to 140/70-R17. But I know this will cause another problem, false reading in the speedometer. There are very few resources in my country, so I can't calibrate the speedometer or make any complex customization to the speedometer to make the reading right. So I came with another plan. My stock engine sprocket has 15T and drive sprocket has 45T. Stock rear tire is 140/60-R17. I have my "speed reader"(I don't know the exact name of it) at the engine sprocket. So, for stock rear tire the overall diameter is 599.8mm with a circumference of 1884.327mm. If I change the tire size from 140/60-R17 to 140/70-R17, then the overall diameter is 627.8mm with a circumference of 1972.292mm. By the unitary rules-- Circumference ---> Engine Sprocket(front) ---> Drive Sprocket(rear) 1884.327mm ---> 15T ---> 45T 1mm ---> 15T ---> (45T/1884.327mm) 1972.292mm ---> 15T ---> (45T X 1972.292mm)/1884.327mm = 47.100T ≈ 47T I know the power distribution will be low. I don't care about the top speed either. Just want to make sure the speedometer read the correct distance I am travelling. So, if I change the stock chain sprocket from 15T/45T to 15T/47T and stock rear tire from 140/60-R17 to 140/70-R17, will it show the correct reading in the speedometer?
Question i have a 95 kx 134 and I am running 12/49 and im thinking about racing and im just looking for the happy medium so would you recommend a 13 or 14 front sprocket and a 50 or 51 rear? Just want your thoughts and what you would recommend for reasonable performance or best performance
Hi, YOU BEEN GREAT HELP to me ! I have looked for Months the DIFF SIZE and the % of the FRONT & BACK SPOCKETS MAKE on SPEED ! YOU THE ONLY GUY HERE THAT SHOW me how MUCH CHANGE A FRONT ONE or back one makes on the teeth when changes are made ! THANKS know body don't know about how BIG OF CHANGE YOU MAKE with one tooth ? or two on the BIG GEAR IN back or FRONT to. YOU help me lots ! THANKS Kim i will tell my friends about your site you knowing BIKES and SCOOTERS to
Do I add numbers to the rear sprocket for the new calculation to get the exact figures? Old 15/41=2.73 but if I add a 20t to the front will it be 20/41=2.05 or because I went up 5 teeth will i have to ad 25 (1 front tooth = 3/4 teeth )to the rear 41 ? So would it be be 20/66=3.3? Or just the 20/41=2.05???
I have a 1994 yz 125 bored 30 over, about a 155. I want to be able to hillclimb easier and get more low-end torque. I really don't care about my top speed I never even hit 5th or 6th anyways with the riding I do. maybe like 13:54 or 13:56 or 12:52?
I want to know why every motorcycle Guru on the internet does not mention change size chain tensile strength Nobody Does that everybody keeps doing the videos but nobody explaines what that actually means for your bike because a less 9000 strength like I had on my bike will cause catastrophic failure I had a 520 chain on a 1000 bike Yamaha somebody put that chain on there when I purchased the bike and I almost died somebody please start explaining the tensile 💪 of these chains and what chain is appropriate for each bike.
I got a very big sprocket in the back and because my atv is a GY6 engine I can put a very big sprocket in the front I will change the front it's cheaper more helpful
Why dear, I have a Honda nc700x with standard sprocket 16front and 43rear but I've changed the rear to a 41 but I lost power on my 6th gear, it is actually faster but I didn't get the top end speed that I want, before a have 188km/h and with this change to a 41 rear I'm only getting 170km/h. I want a top end speed like 190km/h, should I add 1 teeth in the front to be 17front and 41 rear??
Hello! I have a vintage honda tlr 200 reflex. The front sprocket was missing a spacer so it rubbed the seal away causing a leak. I got all the seals and a new front sprocket and spacer. The sprocket before was 10 tooth and this one is 13 i believe and its bigger in diameter than the other one too... what might the difference be after I'm done fixing it?
So I have a question. Is a torque convertor a good way to go for a motor that gets higher rpms? Is it better to run striaght chain on motors that can hot the higher rpms?
I've just put a 15T CS sprocket on my 2011 sxf250 and it's close but 2-3mm demo the slave cylinder, is this okay? if I keep an eye on the chain tension?
I would imagine a big bore kit with some hot cams would beef it up some for you. You could look into those mods and see what others have done to their YFZ's?
If I gear down the front 1 tooth, will I need to adjust the chain length at all? 2017 fx 450 having flameout issues in the tight tech single track here in the PNW...
Rocky Mountain ATV MC if I go down a tooth wouldn’t that create more slack? Causing the chain blocks to come out away from swing arm more? So I would need room for the adjustment blocks to come back some rite?
how could I accelerate my atv Bashan 200cc, the front gear is 15t and the rear 40t, I am interested in a higher speed, what should I change? And I'm interested in speeding up, what should change? on how many teeth?
I know this is an old videos but here goes anyways. I have a 2015 raptor 700. Stock gears are 14-38. Dropping down to 13 in the front. How many links should I remove from my chain?
I have a yamaha fz8. Stock is 16 46 with a 122 link chain. I want to increase the fuel economy so thinking of adding one tooth to the front and removing one tooth from the rear. Would that be the best way to go, or would just adding one tooth to the front and leaving the rear alone be just as effective? Additiinally what would be the new number of links in the chain be with these changes?
I would just go one bigger on the fromt which is like takimg away 3 or 4 on the rear. And by only going up ome tooth the stock chaim will still work just fine
It depends what you mean by faster. A bigger rear sprocket/smaller front sprocket will increase acceleration and decrease top speed, while a smaller rear sprocket/larger front sprocket will give you a higher top speed but slower acceleration.
Best gearing for a wr250r used for commuting and a bunch of highway as well as stop and go traffic im located in Los Angeles fyi a respond would be appreciated thank you sir?
JULIO RENE ARGUETA OCHOA your going to want a smaller sprocket, 2 reasons... 1. Better for cruising at higher speeds overall. 2. If your stopping and going the accelation is not going to be as important
Wrong about changing the chain length. You only change the chain by HALF the number of tooth changes you make. One or two tooth changes may not require a chain change. It depends on how far forward or back the axle already is..
I would try out 1 tooth higher on the rear sprocket for a little better acceleration. This bike doesn't have a strong bottom end and adding one tooth could help. But it comes down to rider preference. This would also be good for slower, technical riding. -Chase
So i have a ktm 125exc for the road daily drive motorcycle, whats the best sprocket gearing for me? Because i have to gear alot when im driving on the speed limit
It sounds like you need more top speed? I would recommend starting with a rear sprocket that's around 3 teeth smaller than your current one and see how that does. Its hard to know exactly the speed you're riding at or if your gearing is stock now. Hope that helps!
I have a cr 500 geared at 14t and 49t I wanna gain a little more top speed but unsure which way to go this video helps out alot but I'm wondering if a 1t down on front sprocket will make it better I attend to trail ride and some hillclimbing
If you want more top speed you will want to go bigger on the front sprocket or smaller on the rear sprocket. But going one tooth bigger on the counter shaft sprocket is a good place to start!
I got a 90 lt160e suzuki i want to get more speed out of i looked up and sites said front sprocket is 11t a d back is 39 what would be the best one to go after first the rear? Was thinking 41 maybe?
going up to a 41 tooth will decrease top speed and help with acceleration. If you want more top end speed, then you need to decrease the amount of teeth on the rear sprocket.
I'd stick with your stock gearing in the front. Maybe go 1 or 2 teeth up in the rear but I wouldn't change more than that. See how it feels and go from there.
Smaller rear sprocket is considered a taller gearing (more top end speed) and more teeth is a lower gearing (more acceleration with less top end speed)
What would be recommended for a 300cc bike? I commute a lot and love the powerful acceleration and before you know it you're doing 50-60mph, but it struggles to top like 80-85mph. I want 6th gear to be almost like an overdrive, but I don't want acceleration to be like a dam semitruck then lol...
It seems like there are so many idiots on UA-cam that say taller gearing will give you more top speed. This is NOT true in many cases. Downvoted for inaccuracy.
Chase can explain the most complex things when it comes to bikes. Can’t thank you enough man!
Glad you enjoy the video and you can learn from them. Thanks for watching-Chase
I rode desert, I added 1 tooth to the front and got significant increase in top speed
every time i have a question and no one to ask CHASE always comes swooping in with the golden info. thank you!!!!
Glad you enjoyed the video and we could answer your questions! Keep twisting that throttle!~Chase
Lol l
is 14:56 good crf150r
I have a semi built raptor 660r with factory sprocket teeth count. It has great tourqe. But i would love a bit more speed with out losing the tourque .whats my best option.
If anyone can help me, I climb a monster hill everyday with slippery clay. Will a large 51 teeth rear sprocket help? Or will it slip even more? I've got a crf 250 and have enough power to climb but am slipping a lot.
What's the best set up for racing?
iKonic 😂😂
I have a 2018 crf250r and I'm kinda a slow rider. I notice when I come into the corners the bottom end seems to drop off. Stock gears are 13 front 48 rear. Would 50 or 51 be better for me and my style of riding. Tracks and trails all have super soft sugar sand. Thanks
That wouldn't be a bad idea. You'll lose some top end speed, but it'll give the added hit down low.
You forgot to point out that gears MULTIPLY torque. For example, a numerically higher ratio multiplies torque more than a numerically lower ratio. Thus, lower gears provide more torque multiplication than higher gears.
That doesn't matter since he was only talking about final gearing.
Do not throw your money away changing the sockets. This will only make 2 results:
1. this will improve starting off (launching)
2. this will increase your RPM in top gear at highway speeds.
Changing the sprockets is changing the final gearing on your cycle. Changing the final gearing means nothing. What really matters is overall gearing. Overall gearing is everything from the engine to the rear tire.
Overall gearing is a affected by these areas:
1. Primary drive ratio between crankshaft and transmission.
2. Manual Transmission
3. Drive sprockets (final gearing)
It is a very common misunderstanding that changing the sprockets will mean you'll always have lower gearing. That is not true. You have a manual transmission. That allows you to have what ever gear ratio you want. If you like the power of low gearing then don't shift until redline for all I care. Shifting at redline is not what you really want unless you are drag racing. My point is you can decide how high you want your RPM to go before shifting.
If you like low RPM for fuel efficiency shift early and keep your RPMs low.
Once you get in top gear you can't shift up any more. That's why I say changing the sprockets will affect the RPM on the highway.
In other words, you'd be right if you ONLY changed the sprockets (final gearing) but continued to change gears at the same time (shifting into 4th gear at 43 MPH) you'd be at higher RPM when you changed gears.
@@BusaDave correct - up to a point.
An engine's torque is multiplied by OVERALL gearing i.e. primary drive ratio * (# rear sprocket teeth / # front sprocket teeth). Primary drive ratio changes with gear selection. Lower gears (higher numerically) multiply torque at a given rpm by that higher factor.
For example, if we look up the first gear ratio, it might be something like 2.5:1; yet, top gear might be about 1:1. If at a given rpm the engine makes say 10 ft-lbs of torque, that 10 ft-lbs gets multiplied by 2.5 in first gear * the sprockets secondary gears ratio (maybe 3.5: 1, depending on installed sprockets). Thus, 10 ft-lbs * 2.5 first gear ratio * 3.5 rear-sprocket teeth/front-sprocket teeth = 87.5 ft-lbs in first gear ... but only 10 ft-lbs * 1 in top gear * 3.5 rear-sprocket teeth/front-sprocket teeth in top gear (at that same rpm) = 35 ft-lbs.
That's why vehicles can't accelerate as hard in top gear as in a lower gears. Torque multiplication via gearing is not limited to motorcycles. It is the reason that a tractor with a puny little 4 cylinder engine can pull tree stumps! The little bit or torque, produced by the 4-cylinder engine, is GREATLY multiplied by very low (numerically large) tree-stump pulling gears.
I suspect that those who think that they need powerful liter+ bikes simply aren't comfortable downshifting for passing power, hill climbing etc.; they expect the engine to have the desired power (for passing, hill climbing etc.) in TOP gear!
btw, maximum acceleration involves shifting at the power PEAK - which is often BELOW the red-line (seen on dynamometer charts); this is where road racers shift, for example.
you too are correct up to a point. When talking about overall gearing we are talking about a high spinning crankshaft in the engine geared down to a wheel that is rotating at a much slower rate.
If you are riding 45 MPH and your engine is running at 3500 RPM that alone tells us the overall gearing. Think about that. Then engine makes so many revolutions per revolution of the rear tire.
It makes no difference what so ever if the bike is in 3rd gear and has very tall final gearing (sprockets) or if the bike is in 4th gear and has very low final gearing. Either way the OVERALL gearing is the same if the bike is going 45 MPH and the engine is running at 3500 RPM.
Think about what I said carefully.
@@BusaDave At any given speed (say 45 mph) downshifting (for more torque multiplication) INCREASES engine rpm; that's why downshifting at any given speed requires a throttle blip - to match/raise engine rpm with the road speed, preventing jerking the bike (nose-diving) when downshifting.
I have a question. If I go down 1 on my front sprocket and add 1 to the back, can I keep the same chain.
Yeah you shouldn't have a problem doing that! Usually every 2 teeth you change on your sprockets you will need to add or subtract 2 chain links.
@@rmatvmc it will also help produce more power on takeoff, correct?.
You bet! Going down a tooth on the front sprocket will increase bottom end/faster acceleration.
@@rmatvmc Thank you for the information. I will continue following the channel.
Chase I gotta say you may be the hardest working dude in this industry. Always great videos. You go so hard sometimes your eyes look tired. God bless you
i agree
I have a 14t front and 36t back on my dirtbike...rip accelaration
acceleration has left the chat
Whoa
Does it run hard and has slot of speed
😂😂😂
On a 125 at least that’s actually pretty aggressive on torque, I run 17/34 for top speed and it still pulls hard enough to pass cars on 40-45mph side streets. It depends on internal hearing too I guess, but this is essentially a pit bike with street fairings I’m on.
I have a 2006 kx450 with the 4 speed. When I’m riding desert I catch myself reaching for 5th. What would you recommend for talker gearing on this?
Add a tooth to the front sprocket
I geared down from 15/45 to 14/45 on my dr200 and second gear is now my first for when im rolling its great
Excellent explanations. Thanks.
I messed something up, I installed the front sprocket on my front wheel and I can't get the chain to stay on. Every time I turn the handlebars the chain slips off...
Try changing out your exhaust bearings
You just forgot to add blinker fluid
Realize you are only talking about final gearing!
Do not throw your money away changing the sockets. This will only make 2 results:
1. this will improve starting off (launching)
2. this will increase your RPM in top gear at highway speeds.
Changing the sprockets is changing the final gearing on your cycle. Changing the final gearing means nothing. What really matters is overall gearing. Overall gearing is everything from the engine to the rear tire.
Overall gearing is a affected by these areas:
1. Manual Transmission
2. Drive sprockets (final gearing)
3. Tire size.
It is a very common misunderstanding that changing the sprockets will mean you'll always have lower gearing. That is not true. You have a manual transmission. That allows you to have what ever gear ratio you want. If you like the power of low gearing then don't shift until redline for all I care. Shifting at redline is not what you really want unless you are drag racing. My point is you can decide how high you want your RPM to go before shifting.
If you like low RPM for fuel efficiency shift early and keep your RPMs low.
Once you get in top gear you can't shift up any more. That's why I say changing the sprockets will affect the RPM on the highway.
Stock 15T/45T to 15T/47T and stock 140/60-R17 to 140/70-R17
Hello there, I am from Bangladesh and I have a motorbike called "Suzuki Gixxer 155cc 2014".
My bike has a ground clearance of 160mm. Problem is I often get pounded at the bottom part of my bike in many uneven speed breaker in my country due to this very short ground clearance.
Many in our country has overcame this issue by simply upgrading the rear tire size from 140/60-R17 to 140/70-R17. But I know this will cause another problem, false reading in the speedometer.
There are very few resources in my country, so I can't calibrate the speedometer or make any complex customization to the speedometer to make the reading right. So I came with another plan.
My stock engine sprocket has 15T and drive sprocket has 45T. Stock rear tire is 140/60-R17. I have my "speed reader"(I don't know the exact name of it) at the engine sprocket.
So, for stock rear tire the overall diameter is 599.8mm with a circumference of 1884.327mm.
If I change the tire size from 140/60-R17 to 140/70-R17, then the overall diameter is 627.8mm with a circumference of 1972.292mm.
By the unitary rules--
Circumference ---> Engine Sprocket(front) ---> Drive Sprocket(rear)
1884.327mm ---> 15T ---> 45T
1mm ---> 15T ---> (45T/1884.327mm)
1972.292mm ---> 15T ---> (45T X 1972.292mm)/1884.327mm
= 47.100T ≈ 47T
I know the power distribution will be low. I don't care about the top speed either. Just want to make sure the speedometer read the correct distance I am travelling.
So, if I change the stock chain sprocket from 15T/45T to 15T/47T and stock rear tire from 140/60-R17 to 140/70-R17, will it show the correct reading in the speedometer?
What would you recomend for yamaha yz 125cc (2004) i have 5 gers! I have 13-49
Seems good
Question i have a 95 kx 134 and I am running 12/49 and im thinking about racing and im just looking for the happy medium so would you recommend a 13 or 14 front sprocket and a 50 or 51 rear? Just want your thoughts and what you would recommend for reasonable performance or best performance
I would like more power in first gear to pull me instead of cutting off when I let go of the clutch . What do you recommend?
Hi, YOU BEEN GREAT HELP to me ! I have looked for Months the DIFF SIZE and the % of the FRONT & BACK SPOCKETS MAKE on SPEED ! YOU THE ONLY GUY HERE THAT SHOW me how MUCH CHANGE A FRONT ONE or back one makes on the teeth when changes are made ! THANKS know body don't know about how BIG OF CHANGE YOU MAKE with one tooth ? or two on the BIG GEAR IN back or FRONT to. YOU help me lots ! THANKS Kim i will tell my friends about your site you knowing BIKES and SCOOTERS to
Do I add numbers to the rear sprocket for the new calculation to get the exact figures? Old 15/41=2.73 but if I add a 20t to the front will it be 20/41=2.05 or because I went up 5 teeth will i have to ad 25 (1 front tooth = 3/4 teeth )to the rear 41 ? So would it be be 20/66=3.3? Or just the 20/41=2.05???
Yes, you would have to add a ton of teeth to the rear to have the same ratio and a massive chain. Why would you go up to a 20 front?
I have a 1994 yz 125 bored 30 over, about a 155. I want to be able to hillclimb easier and get more low-end torque. I really don't care about my top speed I never even hit 5th or 6th anyways with the riding I do. maybe like 13:54 or 13:56 or 12:52?
Isaac Cherry have less gears in the front and epiriment
I want to know why every motorcycle Guru on the internet does not mention change size chain tensile strength Nobody Does that everybody keeps doing the videos but nobody explaines what that actually means for your bike because a less 9000 strength like I had on my bike will cause catastrophic failure I had a 520 chain on a 1000 bike Yamaha somebody put that chain on there when I purchased the bike and I almost died somebody please start explaining the tensile 💪 of these chains and what chain is appropriate for each bike.
I got a very big sprocket in the back and because my atv is a GY6 engine I can put a very big sprocket in the front
I will change the front it's cheaper more helpful
what video should i refer to for 2007 rm125 fork seals
m1ke2001 Probably one that pertains to 2007 rm125's and replacing their fork seals
Chase is the man thank you pal
Why dear, I have a Honda nc700x with standard sprocket 16front and 43rear but I've changed the rear to a 41 but I lost power on my 6th gear, it is actually faster but I didn't get the top end speed that I want, before a have 188km/h and with this change to a 41 rear I'm only getting 170km/h. I want a top end speed like 190km/h, should I add 1 teeth in the front to be 17front and 41 rear??
Would I gear up for less torque longer gears? Bike has too much torque for wheelies I want it to have less torque
I’m trying to find a good sprocket size to convert my Crf250r into a supermoto any recommendations?
yeah i definitely need to gear down... i have a top speed of 92mph. Tires are rated for max of 81mph. plus i shouldn't be going that fast anyways 😂
matthew petteway lol
I have stock sprockets want to go 1th smaller in the rear will I pick up top speed handa grom 2022
Hello! I have a vintage honda tlr 200 reflex. The front sprocket was missing a spacer so it rubbed the seal away causing a leak. I got all the seals and a new front sprocket and spacer. The sprocket before was 10 tooth and this one is 13 i believe and its bigger in diameter than the other one too... what might the difference be after I'm done fixing it?
I have a 2005 Crf150f with a 13/48 if I want more top speed what should I do
So I have a question. Is a torque convertor a good way to go for a motor that gets higher rpms? Is it better to run striaght chain on motors that can hot the higher rpms?
I've just put a 15T CS sprocket on my 2011 sxf250 and it's close but 2-3mm demo the slave cylinder, is this okay? if I keep an eye on the chain tension?
Where can I get an orange sprocket, like the one in this video, for a Honda?
expertly explained - awesome
I know is dumb question but what could I do to beat a banshee I have yfz 450r 17 I have full exhaust and dyno
I would imagine a big bore kit with some hot cams would beef it up some for you. You could look into those mods and see what others have done to their YFZ's?
Rocky Mountain ATV MC thx really appreciate it
xXbestchapoXx garcia if it's a 4mill banshee , you gonna need some headwork
You have a 4 stroke. that's the problem
Why do you care about 'beating a banshee?' Just go ride.
If I gear down the front 1 tooth, will I need to adjust the chain length at all? 2017 fx 450 having flameout issues in the tight tech single track here in the PNW...
Unless your chain adjuster blocks are already as far in (close to the swingarm) as the can get, you should be ok.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC if I go down a tooth wouldn’t that create more slack? Causing the chain blocks to come out away from swing arm more? So I would need room for the adjustment blocks to come back some rite?
What do you mean by flameout issues? Never really heard it applied to mx bikes, I'm just curious because it's a term used with turbine engines
More fly wheel weight... just saying..
For supermoto??...what's the ideal size?.. I mean the setup
Very well explained
teşekkürler bu da faydalı olabilir sprocketcalculator.com/
how could I accelerate my atv Bashan 200cc, the front gear is 15t and the rear 40t, I am interested in a higher speed, what should I change? And I'm interested in speeding up, what should change? on how many teeth?
Go a couple teeth smaller in the rear or omlne tooth bigger in the front
I know this is an old videos but here goes anyways. I have a 2015 raptor 700. Stock gears are 14-38. Dropping down to 13 in the front. How many links should I remove from my chain?
none
What about getting low end launch
A larger rear sprocket or smaller front sprocket will give you more acceleration.
Honda owner: 85% gear reduction take it or leave it
This was so good. Made things so simple. Thanks Chase
I have a yamaha fz8. Stock is 16 46 with a 122 link chain. I want to increase the fuel economy so thinking of adding one tooth to the front and removing one tooth from the rear. Would that be the best way to go, or would just adding one tooth to the front and leaving the rear alone be just as effective? Additiinally what would be the new number of links in the chain be with these changes?
I would just go one bigger on the fromt which is like takimg away 3 or 4 on the rear. And by only going up ome tooth the stock chaim will still work just fine
I have a 2007 yfz top at 75 how Can I make it faster
It depends what you mean by faster. A bigger rear sprocket/smaller front sprocket will increase acceleration and decrease top speed, while a smaller rear sprocket/larger front sprocket will give you a higher top speed but slower acceleration.
@@rmatvmc what u mean decrease top speed or increase
Best gearing for a wr250r used for commuting and a bunch of highway as well as stop and go traffic im located in Los Angeles fyi a respond would be appreciated thank you sir?
JULIO RENE ARGUETA OCHOA your going to want a smaller sprocket, 2 reasons... 1. Better for cruising at higher speeds overall. 2. If your stopping and going the accelation is not going to be as important
What is the best set up for a Honda cr 125 2005 that is used for motocross
Do you get more tourque less teeth
A smaller front sprocket/larger rear sprocket will give you more bottom end acceleration.
Wrong about changing the chain length. You only change the chain by HALF the number of tooth changes you make. One or two tooth changes may not require a chain change. It depends on how far forward or back the axle already is..
If most motorcycles are geared too low what is too high?
i have honda crf 250 l 2018 model what you can advise me to put size
I would try out 1 tooth higher on the rear sprocket for a little better acceleration. This bike doesn't have a strong bottom end and adding one tooth could help. But it comes down to rider preference. This would also be good for slower, technical riding. -Chase
So i have a ktm 125exc for the road daily drive motorcycle, whats the best sprocket gearing for me?
Because i have to gear alot when im driving on the speed limit
It sounds like you need more top speed? I would recommend starting with a rear sprocket that's around 3 teeth smaller than your current one and see how that does. Its hard to know exactly the speed you're riding at or if your gearing is stock now.
Hope that helps!
I just want lower rpm when im in the road so thats the best to have that you recomended for me?
Try 14/48
Dose this work for a utv
Is a 14t on the front and 52t on the back a good gear ratio for a ktm 125 sx 2 stroke for torque and really slow technical riding?
What is the ration you currently have?
I have a cr 500 geared at 14t and 49t I wanna gain a little more top speed but unsure which way to go this video helps out alot but I'm wondering if a 1t down on front sprocket will make it better I attend to trail ride and some hillclimbing
If you want more top speed you will want to go bigger on the front sprocket or smaller on the rear sprocket. But going one tooth bigger on the counter shaft sprocket is a good place to start!
Down on the back
what is best chine spoke 15 and which?
My ratio is 6.5 lol
I have 3.2
Legacy Ains 10-65
Thanks 👍
I got a 90 lt160e suzuki i want to get more speed out of i looked up and sites said front sprocket is 11t a d back is 39 what would be the best one to go after first the rear? Was thinking 41 maybe?
going up to a 41 tooth will decrease top speed and help with acceleration. If you want more top end speed, then you need to decrease the amount of teeth on the rear sprocket.
My quad is already geared the lowest teeth sprockets from what i have seen and cant find smaller then 11 or 39
Hey Jonathan, you can increase the smaller sprocket in the front from 11t to 12 t or 13t.
One teeth more on rear sprocket do l must buy and a longer chain ? (13/50 is org.)
If you're only changing it one tooth from stock, you don't need a different length chain. Thanks for watching!
@@rmatvmc l hope in chain adjuster/slider will be a enought space ,thanx on advice...😉🤔
Thank you
what would you recommend for Yamaha wr 426f 2001 supermoto?
What would you recomend for yamaha yz 125cc (2004) i have 5 gers! I have 13-49
Hy i own an ktm 450' 2012 for big hill climb what you recomand between 13/50 and 14/52? Thanks
Depends on what you're looking for as far as acceleration. Do you want faster acceleration, or more top end speed?
@@rmatvmc i need the best gearing for climbing hills
Stock beta gearing is 13:49 and i was thinking about changing to a 51 but the beta already has a lot of torque so idk
That is tough. I would go up one tooth at a time and see how it feels. One tooth is noticeable and two can feel pretty substantial~Chase
What is good for my 2006 yz250f
13 fromt 50 or 51 rear is good all round
I have a 2016 kx450f
What would be good gearing for mx tracks and woods riding ?
13 f and 49 r ?
I'd stick with your stock gearing in the front. Maybe go 1 or 2 teeth up in the rear but I wouldn't change more than that. See how it feels and go from there.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC thanks i will try that out
Are sprockets made out of steel?
Steel and aluminum. Steel is usually cheaper, last longer, but much heavier. Aluminum is a little more but much lighter.
Great video.. but the animation going backwards was unbearable!!!
So smaller rear is lower gearing then,,,
Smaller rear sprocket is considered a taller gearing (more top end speed) and more teeth is a lower gearing (more acceleration with less top end speed)
Yes yes on ye gooooo
11:39?
Stfu
What would be recommended for a 300cc bike? I commute a lot and love the powerful acceleration and before you know it you're doing 50-60mph, but it struggles to top like 80-85mph. I want 6th gear to be almost like an overdrive, but I don't want acceleration to be like a dam semitruck then lol...
Hey , I took 2 lengths off my chain , and it was too short , so I put them back on , is this Ok? , Or wiill my chain break?
What is he holding in his left hand on 4:43? Chain what ?
That is our Tusk Chain Breaker: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/756/37026/Tusk-Heavy-Duty-Chain-Breaker
amit amit chain breaker, its just removes links out of the chain to shorten the chain.
amit amit its a chain tool
Chain breaker
Hello Bro Can I Change My Rear Sprocket To Bigger On My ATV???
Yes, you can.
Is 50t a good size for rear??
StuntHamza4 proof that there are such things as dumb questions
Tyl3rAZ why u mad I wasn’t knowing any information so I asked😇
StuntHamza4 oh bro I’m not mad at all lmao
Great video!
Just wondering what if I put an 14 in the front and 11 in the rear what would happen?
depends on the bike you have and what you're current gearing is.
It would go Really, Really FAST....DOWN Hill only though!!
It seems like there are so many idiots on UA-cam that say taller gearing will give you more top speed. This is NOT true in many cases. Downvoted for inaccuracy.
I want a 1:1 or nothing