There are several errors in this presentation. 1) 0:42 - Economy does NOT mean you need to turn the rear wheel slower like you say. For a given engine RPM, you would want the rear wheel to turn faster, thus forcing the engine RPMs to be less at some given roadspeed (such as 50 MPH = 80.5 km/h) in some selected gear (such as 4th gear). 2) Putting a smaller rear sprocket on a motorcycle makes the rear wheel turn faster for some given engine RPM / gear ratio combo, not slower like you say. This is because the chain would only have to pull 39 teeth for 1 rear wheel revolution, whereas before it needed to pull 2 teeth more to make that same rear wheel revolution (in this example). You seem to have a fundamental misunderstanding of how sprockets, wheel speed, and related things work. 3) 4:50 - A gross exaggeration saying a 12" breaker bar is now like a 3 foot breaker bar. The rear axle only moves and inch or so forward and backwards from the center position with a fixed length chain, not 3x (12" to 36"). Even people that extend their swingarms are not tripling the length of them, not even close. 4) 8:18 - Going from 13 teeth to 14 teeth on the front sprocket is NOT similar to adding 2.5 teeth on the rear sprocket. That is totally backwards. It is equivalent to subtracting 2.5 teeth on the rear sprocket. Since the stock sprockets are 14-41 which is almost a 1:3 ratio, it would have been much better to say a change of 1 tooth on the front is equivalent to a change of 3 teeth on the rear, but opposite size (bigger front = smaller rear, smaller front = bigger rear). You are needlessly complicating things stating 2.5 teeth. How is someone supposed to add 2.5 teeth to a rear sprocket? I know what you are trying to say but choosing 2.5 was a bad example for beginners. An error I see you mention several times in your video is going to redline slows you down. First, that is unclear what you mean by that (slowing down relative to what?). Second, it is misleading. A motorcycle will still accelerate, even if the power is decreasing. For example, imagine a motorcycle in 2nd gear and you run it up to (and even a little past) the start of redline. The motorcycle will NOT slow down (road speed), it will continute to accelerate, provided the power output is more than what is required to keep the motorcycle moving at its current speed. You may be misleading people to believe that when the power curve drops off that the motorcycle will slow down (road speed) but that is NOT true in the lower gears. It is likely only true in the 1 or 2 highest gears. If you were to superimpose road speed on the graph that shows HP output, in a lower gear (let's say 2nd gear), as the power curve drops, the motorcycle speed curve would still be increasing at that point, although somewhat flattening out (but not dipping downward). There are also other reasons why guys change sprockets and chains on their bikes that you did not even mention in this video, but since the title states introductory lesson, I will cut you some slack on that one (pun intended). An example is my 1997 Kawasaki ZX-11 which came with 17-45 stock sprocket sizes but if I wanted to, I could run 18-47 which is about the same final drive ratio, but larger sprockets usually last longer than smaller ones, and larger ones give more chain clearance from the swingarm and are slightly more efficient due to less of a severe bend/wrap of the chain around them. F.Y.I. I am currently running 18-45 sprockets but am considering 18-42 in the near future. Another thing you mentioned that is very misleading is you were concerned about if the Ninja 400 would pull the 14-39 "gearing" vs. the stock 14-41 combo. Even with that "taller gearing", someone can just hold the lower gears a bit longer to compensate. For example, if a typical Ninja 400 street rider would shift at 6000 RPMs with stock gearing, they can just shift at 6500 RPMs with the slightly taller gearing to compensate. So then the only real concern is having to slip the clutch slightly more in 1st gear and will it be able to pull the top gear at highway speeds (but if not, just drop down 1 gear like from 6th the 5th). People like you should NOT be giving presentations like this. You are giving out wrong information and it is biased towards track setup, not the typical street rider (what track rider would need an introduction to gearing?). It is very concerning to me that someone such as yourself has a fundamental misunderstanding of sprockets and gear ratios and for that, and the many errors in this video, you have been downvoted by me.
Good topic. I'm geared -2/+3 on my daily 636. Makes for a wild ride for short city rides but engine revs much higher at freeway speeds. I would love to change the 6th gear ratio in the transmission. So my question: Where can you find transmission gear options for the Ninja ZX6-R for sale?
@@SHUJINCELL the expensive part is the disassembly and assembly of the engine, for the price of the gears itself you can probably get a nice exhaust and tune as well.
Would it not be easier to go up one tooth on the front, to increase either economy/top speed rather than 2 off the rear, which won't have as much of an impact upon swinging arm leverage on the rear shock ?
Hey Dave it's D again. Nice video and very informative. Nice to finally have some context on how gearing effects the handling / swing arm of the motorcycle.
this dude know what he is talking abaout 👌🏻 🤓gearing itself without knowing how power graph go say 💩👌🏻 though ninja 400 is worst egzample ever in regard to track riding cos it have very wideee peak and it dont care reallly to much if you put 37 or 43 rear sprocket it will pull the same on each …at the track 🤷🏻♂️👍🏻 only in regard to slower riding on lower rpm elasticity change but not max acceleration at track 👌🏻☕️ in fact if somebody put huge rear sprocket and on higher gears is smaller diffrencess between gear lenght than it can be even worse at track cos on each gear be the dwme avg power only shifting wuantity increases on which be losess 👌🏻 with narrow peak its oposit smaller diffrences between gears lenghtbe be efitials and usualy higher gears have smaller diffrencess so in such cases put biger rear eat some time on track again cant be to short in reagard to top speed which can be achive at specified track some marginal there is feg not hit 150 mph at fadtestlongest straight but let say 147 still be 👌🏻 if there be less fight on other part of trafk on corner with gears choicen asf but 140 mph probably increase lap time so must be found sweet spot 😉👍🏻 this also count if thers enough grip once it drop down its start to be less and less importsnt as engine woth narrow peak still would have enough power at lower rpm for reach grip border .
04:35 when u lengthen ur wheelbase, u increase the ammount of leverage on the swing arm &u change how the shock works ... so u may find that when u are on the gas, the bike goes wide bc u went so far back in ur rear axle that the arm of the force is so much longer.
The chain cannot be changed in length but you can use a new chain to compensate the changes. On our mx bikes we don't want to change the geometry, everything is tuned and setup for this specific length. Even chain slack has an effect, we sometimes have to adjust rear sag. The actual angle of the chain from the front sprocket to the rear can change as well by changing sprockets, affecting the amount of rear squat when accelerating.
A great topic and insight. Call me old school Dave, but what is a shift light? 😂 I know with my racing days in Australia that I had different front an rear sprockets to achieve the desired results. This, way back in the 90’s was simply explained to me as settling up the sprockets so when in top gear on the longest straight you were at maximum speed/rpm at around 75% of the distance of the longest straight. So gearing for PI would be completely different to a smaller race track like Winton raceway to achieve the same outcome. PI was always difficult as it does have two “slow” first gear corners, plus a very long Gardner straight. To add to that the starting grid slopes upwards, meaning your actual race starts were and still are critical for a fast and clean launch with relatively tall gearing. Love this channel, keep up the great work you do. 👍😎🇦🇺
Hi Marcus. Thanks for the kind words. Shift lights show rpm either by color (orange and then red) or at shift point with a set rpm (white is normal). Raced PI with Team USA in the Classic, so that was a big honor and know exactly what you mean as I have ridden many tracks in Australia.
@@catalystreactionsbw 😊 I was just joking about the shift lights as my modern bikes have them. So much more tech is available these days... Did you get an opportunity to race around Eastern Creek Raceway in Sydney? As it was used for the international events way back when Victoria (Melbourne) banned all cigarette advertising. Eastern Creek is also another great track in Australia as the bike set ups are basically the same as Phillip Island. I’m, however biased as PI was home and I still do the occasional track day just to remain sharp. On another topic, how is the tyre test series coming along? As this one will basically be my guide for selecting my next set of rubber for summer.
I have not yet been to the track and participated in a track day. I am learning all I can and, to be honest, it is extremely overwhelming. I absolutely love to ride around the lakes and up in the mountains here in New Hampshire and have been doing so for many years. I only recently discovered that there was such a thing as "track days" and am planning to attend one sooner rather than later. I know the more I learn about my motorcycle and how to better control it the safer and more enjoyable my riding will be. With all that said, it is still very overwhelming. 😩 I appreciate all the information you are sharing Dave, thank you. Keep yourself safe! 😃👍❤️🏍 Randy
Its never too late. I started in my late 30's. Try it for a few track days to see if you like it, and if you do (who wouldn't! ), take a course and get some training. You'll be amazed at how many bad habits we all pick up over the years.
Speedo Healer and other products correct speed when needed. Some motorcycles have speed sensors in various places so understand where the source is then apply the rationale.
Awesome video Dave! As someone who just recently got a dedicated track bike (06 R6) and started doing more trackdays, I'm always interested in getting more performance from the bike and from myself and understanding the concepts behind it. Thank you for another great video!
When you put on a much larger tire, you change the rolling circumference. Depending on where the speedo pick up is, you can change speeds as well. #1 concern is that you move the balance point of the motorcycle significantly forward and that takes weight off the rear - potentially not a good situation to be in from turn in to exit.
@@catalystreactionsbw The slicks I put on are 190/60 slicks and I feel like I lost accelleration but gained top end. The pickup is not the same though. Don't know what speed I am going on the straights, didn't get a chance to look.
Do you have any proof that what you say makes any difference? Not hypothetical... actual proof. Also, why would your concern only take into account the # of sprocket teeth and not the # of chain links? For example, suppose you had 17-51 sprockets and a 102 link chain. Would it be better to run 17-51 sprockets and a 104 link chain? If so, why no mention of that by you? Also, why do you think it is better to spread the wear across all teeth? Suppose in my 17-51-102 example there is one bad link of the chain that got damaged (such as a bad roller), and hurts the sprockets each time it engages them. In that case, I would think it would be better if that bad part of the chain DID hit the same tooth on both the front and rear sprockets each and every time, so as to do the opposite of what you say... that is, to isolate the damage to only 2 teeth (1 on the front sprocket and 1 on the rear sprocket). That is a counterclaim to your claim.
Good morning.. For honda cbr 600 f sport 2001 F4I. With gear kit ratio 46x16 hard oxide ergal sprocket. lightened sprocket chain did sv3 pitch 520. What do you recommend to lengthen the gear? Thanks
Are you talking internal gearbox for final drive ratio or external gearing based on a gearing chart? The dyno chart may be slightly different with the power curve wit less top speed and more initial drive, but not by a huge amount. Those who tune bikes on dyno's will have a lot more detailed technical perspective on your question.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you for the answer, I came up to this question when racing in 400cc group. I was thinking for changing sprockets both front and back by using two different sizes of sprockets can still achieve the same gear ratio, when this happens does both bike still have the same dyno chart?
You are also wrong at 3:33 in that going from 14-41 sprockets to 13-44 sprockets will force the rear axle forward 15mm (from 535mm to 520mm). I confirmed this 2 ways: Using my approximation method (which I can do in my head very easily), and verifying it online using a chain length calculator. Both agree that in that scenario, the rear axle would only have to move about 9mm forward (a little over 1/3 of an inch) assuming the exact same length chain was used as with the 14-41 sprocket setup. Your 15mm approximation is way off. I wish I could downvote this video twice. Also using a number like 520 is a bad choice for an example because it may cause some confusion with 520 chain, hence you having to clarify in your video which could have been avoided by putting in the correct number (such as 535mm - 9mm = 526mm), although I doubt your 535mm is correct because of all the other errors in this video. This is one of the sloppiest videos I have seen on this subject. If you don't believe me, ask someone that knows what they are talking about on this subject and you will see I am 100% right. Are you too lazy to look up the actual numbers of how far the rear axle will need to move for different sprocket combinations? It is so easy to check yet you didn't even do it.
Thank you for your comments. In changing the gearing on my street bike to a smaller rear sprocket and bigger front sprocket, that brought my rpm's down at 60mph, saving me fuel.
All depends on what type of riding you do and what your looking for. I had an 06 gsxr600 that I did -1/+2 and acceleration was amazing but top speed was only 150.
@@gruenkejoey I have mine basically stock. I've put on dunlope q3s and I bought it lowered and I ride country side. I have fun but I don't get stupid. I do lay over pretty good in the turns but I don't drag knee. Top speed according to Speedo I've had 189 on it but I've been told their off. And when I go fast I get up to about 160 or so but not alot and I don't hangout there. I stay a few seconds then back off.
There are several errors in this presentation.
1) 0:42 - Economy does NOT mean you need to turn the rear wheel slower like you say. For a given engine RPM, you would want the rear wheel to turn faster, thus forcing the engine RPMs to be less at some given roadspeed (such as 50 MPH = 80.5 km/h) in some selected gear (such as 4th gear).
2) Putting a smaller rear sprocket on a motorcycle makes the rear wheel turn faster for some given engine RPM / gear ratio combo, not slower like you say. This is because the chain would only have to pull 39 teeth for 1 rear wheel revolution, whereas before it needed to pull 2 teeth more to make that same rear wheel revolution (in this example). You seem to have a fundamental misunderstanding of how sprockets, wheel speed, and related things work.
3) 4:50 - A gross exaggeration saying a 12" breaker bar is now like a 3 foot breaker bar. The rear axle only moves and inch or so forward and backwards from the center position with a fixed length chain, not 3x (12" to 36"). Even people that extend their swingarms are not tripling the length of them, not even close.
4) 8:18 - Going from 13 teeth to 14 teeth on the front sprocket is NOT similar to adding 2.5 teeth on the rear sprocket. That is totally backwards. It is equivalent to subtracting 2.5 teeth on the rear sprocket. Since the stock sprockets are 14-41 which is almost a 1:3 ratio, it would have been much better to say a change of 1 tooth on the front is equivalent to a change of 3 teeth on the rear, but opposite size (bigger front = smaller rear, smaller front = bigger rear). You are needlessly complicating things stating 2.5 teeth. How is someone supposed to add 2.5 teeth to a rear sprocket? I know what you are trying to say but choosing 2.5 was a bad example for beginners.
An error I see you mention several times in your video is going to redline slows you down. First, that is unclear what you mean by that (slowing down relative to what?). Second, it is misleading. A motorcycle will still accelerate, even if the power is decreasing. For example, imagine a motorcycle in 2nd gear and you run it up to (and even a little past) the start of redline. The motorcycle will NOT slow down (road speed), it will continute to accelerate, provided the power output is more than what is required to keep the motorcycle moving at its current speed. You may be misleading people to believe that when the power curve drops off that the motorcycle will slow down (road speed) but that is NOT true in the lower gears. It is likely only true in the 1 or 2 highest gears. If you were to superimpose road speed on the graph that shows HP output, in a lower gear (let's say 2nd gear), as the power curve drops, the motorcycle speed curve would still be increasing at that point, although somewhat flattening out (but not dipping downward).
There are also other reasons why guys change sprockets and chains on their bikes that you did not even mention in this video, but since the title states introductory lesson, I will cut you some slack on that one (pun intended). An example is my 1997 Kawasaki ZX-11 which came with 17-45 stock sprocket sizes but if I wanted to, I could run 18-47 which is about the same final drive ratio, but larger sprockets usually last longer than smaller ones, and larger ones give more chain clearance from the swingarm and are slightly more efficient due to less of a severe bend/wrap of the chain around them. F.Y.I. I am currently running 18-45 sprockets but am considering 18-42 in the near future.
Another thing you mentioned that is very misleading is you were concerned about if the Ninja 400 would pull the 14-39 "gearing" vs. the stock 14-41 combo. Even with that "taller gearing", someone can just hold the lower gears a bit longer to compensate. For example, if a typical Ninja 400 street rider would shift at 6000 RPMs with stock gearing, they can just shift at 6500 RPMs with the slightly taller gearing to compensate. So then the only real concern is having to slip the clutch slightly more in 1st gear and will it be able to pull the top gear at highway speeds (but if not, just drop down 1 gear like from 6th the 5th).
People like you should NOT be giving presentations like this. You are giving out wrong information and it is biased towards track setup, not the typical street rider (what track rider would need an introduction to gearing?). It is very concerning to me that someone such as yourself has a fundamental misunderstanding of sprockets and gear ratios and for that, and the many errors in this video, you have been downvoted by me.
This is very good i wonder why the gentleman misinformed misinterpreted this.
@@Jason.cbr1000rr Say what? Who r u claiming in misinformed and who is misinterpreting? The information presented in this video is mostly wrong crap.
Good topic. I'm geared -2/+3 on my daily 636. Makes for a wild ride for short city rides but engine revs much higher at freeway speeds. I would love to change the 6th gear ratio in the transmission. So my question: Where can you find transmission gear options for the Ninja ZX6-R for sale?
That would be expensive AF. Just get a proper tune and use the original sprockets to achieve the same result.
@@g.bergervoet4505 Money is no issue. Shouldn't cost too much since it's a gear and not the entire gearbox right?
@@SHUJINCELL the expensive part is the disassembly and assembly of the engine, for the price of the gears itself you can probably get a nice exhaust and tune as well.
@@SHUJINCELL a close ratio gearbox will cost you £2000, search for novaracing close ratio.
Would it not be easier to go up one tooth on the front, to increase either economy/top speed rather than 2 off the rear, which won't have as much of an impact upon swinging arm leverage on the rear shock ?
It should be good but if you change the front sprocket then it is like reducing 3 teeth on the rear sprocket.
Hopefully your bike has enough torque.
@@cranky1812 It has, was able to go up two teeth on the front sprocket.
Also front sprocket area should have enough space for the bigger sprocket
@@cranky1812 I did that on my 675R track day bike. Up 2 teeth on my front sprocket. It was a big improvement overall.
Hey Dave it's D again. Nice video and very informative. Nice to finally have some context on how gearing effects the handling / swing arm of the motorcycle.
this dude know what he is talking abaout 👌🏻 🤓gearing itself without knowing how power graph go say 💩👌🏻 though ninja 400 is worst egzample ever in regard to track riding cos it have very wideee peak and it dont care reallly to much if you put 37 or 43 rear sprocket it will pull the same on each …at the track 🤷🏻♂️👍🏻 only in regard to slower riding on lower rpm elasticity change but not max acceleration at track 👌🏻☕️ in fact if somebody put huge rear sprocket and on higher gears is smaller diffrencess between gear lenght than it can be even worse at track cos on each gear be the dwme avg power only shifting wuantity increases on which be losess 👌🏻 with narrow peak its oposit smaller diffrences between gears lenghtbe be efitials and usualy higher gears have smaller diffrencess so in such cases put biger rear eat some time on track again cant be to short in reagard to top speed which can be achive at specified track some marginal there is feg not hit 150 mph at fadtestlongest straight but let say 147 still be 👌🏻 if there be less fight on other part of trafk on corner with gears choicen asf but 140 mph probably increase lap time so must be found sweet spot 😉👍🏻 this also count if thers enough grip once it drop down its start to be less and less importsnt as engine woth narrow peak still would have enough power at lower rpm for reach grip border .
Good basic knowledge on sprocket gearing. Explained clearly and shown well with the famous Mossy whiteboard and sqeaky pens.
04:35 when u lengthen ur wheelbase, u increase the ammount of leverage on the swing arm &u change how the shock works ... so u may find that when u are on the gas, the bike goes wide bc u went so far back in ur rear axle that the arm of the force is so much longer.
The chain cannot be changed in length but you can use a new chain to compensate the changes. On our mx bikes we don't want to change the geometry, everything is tuned and setup for this specific length. Even chain slack has an effect, we sometimes have to adjust rear sag. The actual angle of the chain from the front sprocket to the rear can change as well by changing sprockets, affecting the amount of rear squat when accelerating.
Great post and thank you for sharing your experience.
A great topic and insight. Call me old school Dave, but what is a shift light? 😂
I know with my racing days in Australia that I had different front an rear sprockets to achieve the desired results. This, way back in the 90’s was simply explained to me as settling up the sprockets so when in top gear on the longest straight you were at maximum speed/rpm at around 75% of the distance of the longest straight. So gearing for PI would be completely different to a smaller race track like Winton raceway to achieve the same outcome. PI was always difficult as it does have two “slow” first gear corners, plus a very long Gardner straight. To add to that the starting grid slopes upwards, meaning your actual race starts were and still are critical for a fast and clean launch with relatively tall gearing. Love this channel, keep up the great work you do. 👍😎🇦🇺
Hi Marcus. Thanks for the kind words. Shift lights show rpm either by color (orange and then red) or at shift point with a set rpm (white is normal). Raced PI with Team USA in the Classic, so that was a big honor and know exactly what you mean as I have ridden many tracks in Australia.
@@catalystreactionsbw 😊 I was just joking about the shift lights as my modern bikes have them. So much more tech is available these days... Did you get an opportunity to race around Eastern Creek Raceway in Sydney? As it was used for the international events way back when Victoria (Melbourne) banned all cigarette advertising. Eastern Creek is also another great track in Australia as the bike set ups are basically the same as Phillip Island. I’m, however biased as PI was home and I still do the occasional track day just to remain sharp. On another topic, how is the tyre test series coming along? As this one will basically be my guide for selecting my next set of rubber for summer.
@@marcusgeorge1825 I have not been to Eastern Creek. That is one on the "to do" list as is "The Bend" near Adelaide.
I'm -1/stock
Acceleration is noticeably quicker
Top speed dropped of course
But it scoots
awesome synthesis of topics. thank you Dave
I have not yet been to the track and participated in a track day.
I am learning all I can and, to be honest, it is extremely overwhelming. I
absolutely love to ride around the lakes and up in the mountains here in
New Hampshire and have been doing so for many years. I only recently
discovered that there was such a thing as "track days" and am planning
to attend one sooner rather than later. I know the more I learn about my
motorcycle and how to better control it the safer and more enjoyable my
riding will be. With all that said, it is still very overwhelming. 😩
I appreciate all the information you are sharing Dave, thank you.
Keep yourself safe! 😃👍❤️🏍
Randy
Its never too late. I started in my late 30's. Try it for a few track days to see if you like it, and if you do (who wouldn't! ), take a course and get some training. You'll be amazed at how many bad habits we all pick up over the years.
@@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234 😃👍
what if, instead of decreasing the rear sprocket size, we increase the front? Get well soon!
If you increase the front it is a value of 2.5 teeth on the rear from one front tooth. Then you can calculate what you end result will be.
Any changes on this will mess with the speed displayed? mismath of stock calibration or something like this?
Speedo Healer and other products correct speed when needed. Some motorcycles have speed sensors in various places so understand where the source is then apply the rationale.
None sense 😔
Awesome video Dave! As someone who just recently got a dedicated track bike (06 R6) and started doing more trackdays, I'm always interested in getting more performance from the bike and from myself and understanding the concepts behind it. Thank you for another great video!
What if you change tire 190/55 to 200/60? Does it also change the gearing?
When you put on a much larger tire, you change the rolling circumference. Depending on where the speedo pick up is, you can change speeds as well. #1 concern is that you move the balance point of the motorcycle significantly forward and that takes weight off the rear - potentially not a good situation to be in from turn in to exit.
@@catalystreactionsbw The slicks I put on are 190/60 slicks and I feel like I lost accelleration but gained top end. The pickup is not the same though. Don't know what speed I am going on the straights, didn't get a chance to look.
You want to make sure your sprocket ratios are non-hunting ratios, so that sprocket wear is distributed across all teeth.
As in? What is non hunting ratio?
Oh like 15-45 10-30 12-48??
Do you have any proof that what you say makes any difference? Not hypothetical... actual proof. Also, why would your concern only take into account the # of sprocket teeth and not the # of chain links? For example, suppose you had 17-51 sprockets and a 102 link chain. Would it be better to run 17-51 sprockets and a 104 link chain? If so, why no mention of that by you? Also, why do you think it is better to spread the wear across all teeth? Suppose in my 17-51-102 example there is one bad link of the chain that got damaged (such as a bad roller), and hurts the sprockets each time it engages them. In that case, I would think it would be better if that bad part of the chain DID hit the same tooth on both the front and rear sprockets each and every time, so as to do the opposite of what you say... that is, to isolate the damage to only 2 teeth (1 on the front sprocket and 1 on the rear sprocket). That is a counterclaim to your claim.
Good morning..
For honda cbr 600 f sport 2001 F4I. With gear kit ratio 46x16 hard oxide ergal sprocket. lightened sprocket chain did sv3 pitch 520. What do you recommend to lengthen the gear?
Thanks
very very clear xplanation dave! thanks and regards from the Philippines! 👍👍👍
Geart video but I always have this question: When gear ratio is same, will the dyno chart be different? If anyone know, please help me out :)
Are you talking internal gearbox for final drive ratio or external gearing based on a gearing chart? The dyno chart may be slightly different with the power curve wit less top speed and more initial drive, but not by a huge amount. Those who tune bikes on dyno's will have a lot more detailed technical perspective on your question.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you for the answer, I came up to this question when racing in 400cc group. I was thinking for changing sprockets both front and back by using two different sizes of sprockets can still achieve the same gear ratio, when this happens does both bike still have the same dyno chart?
@@boduoxu6864 with the same gear ration it will be close.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you
Thank you for your time to explain all of that thank you !!
You are also wrong at 3:33 in that going from 14-41 sprockets to 13-44 sprockets will force the rear axle forward 15mm (from 535mm to 520mm). I confirmed this 2 ways: Using my approximation method (which I can do in my head very easily), and verifying it online using a chain length calculator. Both agree that in that scenario, the rear axle would only have to move about 9mm forward (a little over 1/3 of an inch) assuming the exact same length chain was used as with the 14-41 sprocket setup. Your 15mm approximation is way off. I wish I could downvote this video twice. Also using a number like 520 is a bad choice for an example because it may cause some confusion with 520 chain, hence you having to clarify in your video which could have been avoided by putting in the correct number (such as 535mm - 9mm = 526mm), although I doubt your 535mm is correct because of all the other errors in this video. This is one of the sloppiest videos I have seen on this subject. If you don't believe me, ask someone that knows what they are talking about on this subject and you will see I am 100% right. Are you too lazy to look up the actual numbers of how far the rear axle will need to move for different sprocket combinations? It is so easy to check yet you didn't even do it.
Thank you for your comments. In changing the gearing on my street bike to a smaller rear sprocket and bigger front sprocket, that brought my rpm's down at 60mph, saving me fuel.
@@catalystreactionsbw What does that have to do with all the errors in your presentation here? Trying to move attention away from it?
Thank you
Any suggestions for an 04 gsxr that's been lowered. Actually in my picture?
All depends on what type of riding you do and what your looking for. I had an 06 gsxr600 that I did -1/+2 and acceleration was amazing but top speed was only 150.
@@gruenkejoey I have mine basically stock. I've put on dunlope q3s and I bought it lowered and I ride country side. I have fun but I don't get stupid. I do lay over pretty good in the turns but I don't drag knee. Top speed according to Speedo I've had 189 on it but I've been told their off. And when I go fast I get up to about 160 or so but not alot and I don't hangout there. I stay a few seconds then back off.