Chemical Filtration ...... and a bit of Bacteria
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- www.filterpro.co.uk
Carbon pods and Phosphate pods available from Jan 2022.
An introduction to chemical filtration used to solve common aquarium problems.
(Time stamps below)
Remember to use the chemical filtration in your filter last. That way the Biological side of the filtration (bacteria) has access to whatever is flowing through the system (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) to feed it.
If the 'food' supply being generated in the tank is cut off the bacteria will still be present but bacteria numbers will be severely reduced.
Therefore using a conditioner or liquid which locks up ammonia, nitrite or nitrate is not recommended since that affects the availability of food / nutrients all through the system and can delay the biological cycle severely by maintaining an artificially low population of bacteria in the whole system, including in the substrate which can hold an appreciable amount of bacteria under normal conditions......when using conditioners with binding agents which affect ammonia, nitrite and nitrate most people get tricked into using additives and bacteria to try and restore some sort of stability to the system so are coerced into buying more 'treatments' than they need.
It is a very pharmaceutical template for business - selling more treatment to mask the side-effects (known affects) of the initial damaging 'treatment'.
That's something I am 100% against since it is a very deceptive way of doing business .........cough....cough....P.f.i.z.e.r....
By using specific chemical treatments in the correct place you can solve specific problems - please try to avoid taking the nuclear option to chemical filtration and fish treatment - identify the problem and treat for that specific problem.
I may cover fish treatments in a future video since they were not mentioned here.
TIME STAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:43 Bottom up filter (where to use chemical filtration in the system)
01:55 Top down filter (where to use chemical filtration in the system)
Yes, the coarse and medium pads are upside down in the filter - they should have bumpy side pointing up in top down filter.
02:35 Booster filter (2 methods of set up and where to use chemical filtration in the system)
05:04 Why use chemical filtration LAST
07:38 The only 'chemical' you regularly need (when using tap water for water changes)
08:10 Recommended temporary chemical filtration and when to use it
10:28 Conditioners and what to avoid
12:17 The pharmaceutical business model
13:06 Why to treat specific problems
14:21 Bacteria and why I recommend the gel balls
My email is sales@filterpro.co.uk and my phone number is 07772848730
I get so many emails that some end up in the spam folder or are deleted accidentally when I'm cleaning them up every morning - phone is best.
www.filterpro.co.uk
Carbon pods and Phosphate pods available from Jan 2022.
An introduction to chemical filtration used to solve common aquarium problems.
*(Time stamps below)*
Remember to use the chemical filtration in your filter last. That way the Biological side of the filtration (bacteria) has access to whatever is flowing through the system (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) to feed it.
If the 'food' supply being generated in the tank is cut off the bacteria will still be present but bacteria numbers will be severely reduced.
Therefore using a conditioner or liquid which locks up ammonia, nitrite or nitrate is not recommended since that affects the availability of food / nutrients all through the system and can delay the biological cycle severely by maintaining an artificially low population of bacteria in the whole system, including in the substrate which can hold an appreciable amount of bacteria under normal conditions......when using conditioners with binding agents which affect ammonia, nitrite and nitrate most people get tricked into using additives and bacteria to try and restore some sort of stability to the system so are coerced into buying more 'treatments' than they need.
It is a very pharmaceutical template for business - selling more treatment to mask the side-effects (known affects) of the initial damaging 'treatment'.
That's something I am 100% against since it is a very deceptive way of doing business .........cough....cough....P.f.i.z.e.r....
By using specific chemical treatments in the correct place you can solve specific problems - please try to avoid taking the nuclear option to chemical filtration and fish treatment - identify the problem and treat for that specific problem.
I may cover fish treatments in a future video since they were not mentioned here.
*TIME STAMPS*
00:00 Intro
00:43 Bottom up filter (where to use chemical filtration in the system)
01:55 Top down filter (where to use chemical filtration in the system)
Yes, the coarse and medium pads are upside down in the filter - they should have bumpy side pointing up in top down filter.
02:35 Booster filter (2 methods of set up and where to use chemical filtration in the system)
05:04 Why use chemical filtration LAST
07:38 The only 'chemical' you regularly need (when using tap water for water changes)
08:10 Recommended temporary chemical filtration and when to use it
10:28 Conditioners and what to avoid
12:17 The pharmaceutical business model
13:06 Why to treat specific problems
14:21 Bacteria and why I recommend the gel balls
My email is sales@filterpro.co.uk and my phone number is 07772848730
I get so many emails that some end up in the spam folder or are deleted accidentally when I'm cleaning them up every morning - phone is best.
If you want to do a video on canister repair I have a canister I paid 90 for which makes a rattle from the sealed motor housing and I've given up trying to fix it. I've replaced it so I could post to you and forget for a long time no issues...
Please help guru
Hi Richard.
How are you Sir?
It's good to see you.
I love your videos.
You always bring forward good points.
I use Pondgell for Aquarium media also. I completely agree with you, it is a lot cheaper than what you pay for Aquariums and it is the same thing.
You are One of the very few people on UA-cam that actually knows what they are talking about.
You rock! 🤟😊❤️
I would like to see a video of sump design for large aquarium tank above 270 gallons ( fresh water fish )
The reason I watch this channel, good, honest advice from a very knowledgeable guy. I've learned so much over the years especially on the pond side. Keeping fish is very rewarding & it doesn't have to cost the earth.
what a knowledge hub this man is
I love listening to you. If I close my eyes it's like Alan Shearer is talking about filters....😊
Sheaaarrrrraaaahhhh!
One of the most important things in our hobby: patience.
Before I started watching your channel a couple months ago, I spent hundreds of euro's on stuff (recommended by sellers) that didn't really help and even caused a lot of problems in my tanks. The information you provide is worth gold, and the way you explain everything instantly makes sense (slapped myself on the head several times for not seeing the logic before watching 😆).
Many, many thanks and greetings from Belgium!
I'm glad you found some value in the videos as I put them out to help. Have a good Christmas and 2022.
It all makes perfect sense to me Richard, and after talking to you on many occasions, I know your theory is 100% good, great video 👍👌
This channel is amazing. Such good honest information
Glad to see a video. Hope you all doing well across the pond. Seen some news lately, stay safe, sir. God bless.
The world has gone mad, lol
I've ignored all the 'mandates' since a man-date is when two guys meet up at a glory hole.....
Have a good 2022 - it's going to get wild.
Mate - you're a legend! I've been struggling with an Ammonia spike in my tank for a week and have spent too much money and time on those ammonia binding products - thinking I was protecting my fish whilst trying to re-establish the bacteria in the filter that had gone down ....but for 4 days, with 60%-80% water changes DAILY plus Ammo Lock...I was getting nowhere! Ammonia was still between 2-4ppm. Then I watched your video and had the 'lightbulb' moment - the good bacteria I so desperately needed wasn't going to grow if I kept binding up it's food and starving it!
Then your tip to get those pond bacteria balls and just use a water conditioner was #GOLD!!
So in 18 hours I:
Did another 50% water change,
Transferred a tray of established media from one canister filter to the other one (the one that I had killed all the good bacteria in...don't ask...)
AND put the pond bacteria balls in the other 2 trays of media,
AND poured some bottled bacteria directly onto the sponges just for good measure 🙂
Result?
Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrite: .25ppm
Nitrate: 10ppm
Ammonia spike fixed, lesson learned and experience gained!
Thank you so much.
I've learned so much from your channel. Keep up the great, honest work!
That is awesome to hear and I'm glad it is heading in the right direction. Often the simplest problems are treated with complex 'solutions' and that almost never works - the simple solution is generally best and what benefits the fish keeper and not the companies using a pharmaceutical business template to 'help' you, lol
@@pondguru Update: 24 hours down now and the parameters are:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 5.0
And I haven't done a water change since I followed your advice. #winning.
just love his tone and videos.
Been a long time .. Good to see you
How true. You can spend money and time chasing numbers. I know from experience. Going into an aquarium outlet here in Australia is like going into a chemist shop with all the product on the shelves. I have now gone back to basics. Great video and information.
Just want to say thank you for this info & the OG sunsun series of videos. I almost follow them to the letter and I've been very lucky with my fish and water quality. I would hate to think if of the $$$ if I had to buy more expensive filters. SunSuns on every tank in my house.
Great info as always sir, Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Have a good Christmas too - best of luck for 2022
Love ur videos mate… have a great xmas
You too and best or luck in 2022
Hi Richard, great video thanks for doing this for us all, I was interested to hear you say that I could use my pond balls in my aquarium. What is your opinion on using pond dechlorinators in aquariums ?
The specific conditioners for aquariums tend to be a lot more expensive per ml and maybe this is why people use ‘Prime’ for example as it’s so concentrated.
I run a uv clarifier...should I switch this off after a water x?
I was looking on your channel last night for this kind of video. Also any updates on the fluval fx filter modification I've read somewhere you was looking into doing ? Thanks daz
In this vid you touch on water conditioners. I would love to know more of your thoughts on these products. Especially seachem prime, as this is the one I see recommended on many Facebook groups.
Love the vids, hands down the best filtration advice anywhere on the Internet 👍
Seachem prime is great if you have a cycle crash to stabilize things .it locks in the dangerous stuff Ammonia Nitrite . Though if you have a stabile tanks i would not use it
Bought some media from ya and got that little packet. So cheers for the media and your little gift.
The packet is the free filter starter balls to give it a head start when you set the tank up - just add them all and they will help to seed the media with good bacteria.
Great video!
Hello! Love your videos, researched and studied for ages deciding on a new filter for my community tank, can you answer me something/your opinion?
I have a 105 litre community tank and my 2 integrals weren't cutting it so I went for the fluval 407! Watched your video on the 406 and set it up using the media from my internals and a new box of biomax. I'm trying to get full cycle filtration and your the only person I see talking about it or have any good knowledge of it experts are hard to come by! Lol
Tank stock is-
2 juvenile siamese algae eater
2 green dragon bristlenose
1 albino hoplosternum
16 neon tetra
9 black widow tetra
I have the standard foams in the cartridge, then my bottom tray is medium and fine pads, then a full tray of filter floss
Then my top 2 trays contain 500g seachem matrix and 500g of biomax AND some of the ceramic rings the filter came with so the trays were full so there's minimum 1kg of biomedia.
Would this achieve full cycle filtration?
Also I'm running the inline UV clarifier and I've got the pump flow turned down to about 65% as the uv clarifier states it operates at a max of 900 ish LPH, but watching your other videos the 1400lph stated flow is probably halved anyway so do you think I could run it at 100% and still have the uv work effectively ? The tank is crystal clear with weekly 50% water changes and is heavily planted. Filter been setup for 2.5 weeks now
New to fish keeping and going though all your videos. And learning so much so thank you for making the time to share your experience. Can you recommend a water conditioner or a few conditioners. Currently using seachem prime
Basically anything which doesn't bind the ammonia, nitrite or nitrate - I think I may have made reference to some in the video description and pinned comment but the likes of API Stress Coat is the one I recommend since I've never had any reports of problems cycling when using that one. Prime / Safe delays the cycle terribly and users are often tricked into using other products to hide the side effects of a low bacteria population.
First time seeing this channel and all I can think is why is Carl pilkington selling fish filteres
What about the carbon pads ? Would you want water to hit that first and remove all chemicals and tanners first before going to your biomedia? Or last as the rest ?
I came across the API Stress Zyme and I’m assuming that’s the type of product you’re referring to when you say liquid bacteria (at 15:58). I recently started using it when doing my water changes along with Stress Coat +, which I’ve been using for some time. The bottle says to use it weekly, so is that just a marketing ploy by the manufacturers? Is adding liquid enzymes directly to the tank bad for the biological filtration? I’m a little confused on this because it claims to help build and maintain a healthy biological filtration system, but you’re saying it creates a bloom and bust cycle which is bad. If I don’t have the gel balls, couldn’t I use this enzyme solution to do the same job? Alternatively, can I add it directly to the canister filter when doing canister maintenance?
A little background on my aquariums for clarity purposes. I have heavily planted community tanks with low to moderate fish loads, depending on the type of fish in that community, ie nano community vs rainbows, tetras, & rams. I regularly check water parameters, fertilize with root tabs every 3-4 months, dose with iron & liquid ferts as needed, top up the water weekly, but only do partial water changes every couple of months. I use a combination of filtration systems. On my smaller tanks I prefer sponge filters or HOB filters, but on my medium to large tanks, I use canisters with Biohome or Eheim Substrate Pro set up per your method. I run my lights on a cycle of 10 hours on, 14 hrs off, and have air stone diffusers running 24/7 on all the tanks to compensate for low oxygen levels when lights are off. I hate using unnecessary chemicals and over complicating the hobby.
gr8 words mate as your gr8 work .... keep it going God bless u
Is Melafix safe to use on biological filter? or Primafix? So don't do stress zyme weekly for bacteria? We keep having all kinds of issues since we moved to NC, but its been 2 years now lol. Never had issues in ND so I do the tests on the water and the ammonia and nitrate is high. algae issues in the one tank. the one tank is fine though, its always the other tank which is cichlids. Fin rot seems to be the one that comes to our tank most and we have bully issues. Tried hospital tank but once we re-introduce the fish back to the original tank they gang up on them and if not removed have killed the fish put back in.
The conditioner detoxify the ammonia nitrite and nitrate so it’s in a less harmful for apparently but one thing I don’t understand is how can products like prime starve the anaerobic bacteria it does detox nitrate but only a certain amount depending on how much you dose like a standard dose will only detox like 5-10ppm nitrate? The seachem bottle bacteria I find really good it’s in spore form in the bottle
I have seen with Sercham prime that effect and don't know to wich conditener to switch? 🤔
I always recommend API Stress Coat as there have been no reported problems with that one - it simply makes the water safe for life.
Hello mate. Your videos are amazing and so helpful for beginners like myself. Can I ask for some advice as I can't get anything clear on UA-cam?
So I have an all ponds solutions external EF-1000 UV filter for my 300L tank, been running 1yr. My water is from a HMA filter. Ammonia and Nitrites in all 4 of my tanks 0ppm, but I always have 40ppm Nitrates?. I've used Seachem Prime, Plants etc but can never reduce the Nitrates. My tap water is 40ppm, and I know the HMA won't reduce it. All UA-cam videos suggest water changes but no good to me as my tap water is 40ppm. I don't over feed the fish either. Please help as I don't think it's ideal for my fish. Really don't know how to reduce it? Also not sure if I was to get one of the pads in the video if it goes in the top of the canister or bottom. Thanks!!
Hi there I recently purchased some canna clay balls for a Aquaponics trail for some aquatic plants. And as I was looking at them wondered if they would be any good in a filter as media?
Anything can be used as a filter media and will hold bacteria to one degree or another so if it's what you have give it a go and see how it works out.
Super super vidéo merci beaucoup 🇫🇷♥️👋
very helpfull
Totally agree i only have conditioner nothing else simply use biohome ultimate a deep substrate and plants having said that listen to Richard and you cant go wrong the media he has developed has served me well for many years
So purigen is a no no then?
What about stress coat additives in water conditioners? Good or bad?
That's one I always recommend so definitely good.
Great to see many more videos coming up, i have a strange question and what is happening is that in a Sump i am using a lot of mechanical filtration before biological and even though i am using 8 kilos of biohome my denitrification is not happening as desired. I have a 400 litre water volume tank - its a 5 feet * 1.5 feet * 2.5 feet high tank. The sump is 4.5 feet * 1.5 * 1.5 feet and holds some 100 litres of water volume. I have 3 chambers of foam Coarse, fine and fine that water passes before it hits a chamber of 4 kg ceramic rings. If i speak of layers i have 3 coarse and 8 layers of fine foam in all. After these foam and 4 kg ceramic rings which i am using a mechanical only the water hits a 4 inch wall of ceramic balls and these will be doing a bit of both i guess. Water than passes through these ceramic balls and hits a 4 inch wall of Biohome Ultimate and Biohome Maxi - the big Red ones. It then goes into the return chamber where i further have about 4 kg of pumice based product which i did not want to throw so put it in. I have 18 litres of soil in the tank to balance the pH. I have 9 discus in this tank. I feed heavily since some a growing. I am feeding 4 cubes of chicken heart mix apart from hikari and other dry foods. I have to change 10 % water everyday - 50 litres to maintain nitrate at 20 ppm and once in about 2 weeks i do a big 200 litre change. This setup is now 2 months old. The Biohome i already was using in another sump for 6 months - 5 out of the 8 kilos. 3 kg is new. 5 kg went directly from old sump to new. I am hoping to stop doing any water changes at all or very infrequent ones - say 100 litres per week only and maintain nitrates less than 20 ppm. Ideally 10 ppm. What am i doing wrong ? Is it that so much mechanical filtration is stripping all the ammonia before it hits biohome or i need to wait longer. By the way i am using a 5000 litres per hour rated pump in the sump and i am getting about 3000 litres per hour of actual output from it so water is moving pretty fast too ! Please suggest what to do and please keep doing the awesome work ~!
Is your tank planted?. Plants, and flow is king.
@@noodles74 There are few plants, however since the discus are growing i am maintaining 31 degrees temperature and plants are not doing great. Also plants are not key, if they could remove the nitrates then there would be no point of media like Biohome. I have done some experiments with money plant and aquaponics conclusion is you need a very very huge amount of land plants growing fast to balance out things, aquatic plants do not stand much of a chance, this plants removing nitrates only works in cases like neons where bioload is really now
@@sakleo8 Dont be fooled by the claims being made about biohome. The effectiveness of nitrifying bacteria's ability to colonise your media has nothing to do with how porous it is.
K1 media is not porous, and its be shown to be the best out there both statically, and fluidly.
Porous media clogs easily, and encourages Heterotrophic bacteria which can slow down, and even stall your filter altogether.
Bacteria needs a good flow of oxygen so it easily colonises onto media instead of through it. The structure of biohome is to tight to allow the flow of water through the media which the bacteria thrives on.
Plants are much better than removing nitrates than the filters. Without good plant growth you create a single point of failure. If you filtration goes you're in trouble.
@@noodles74 Yes, I agree with you that K1 beats everything else hands down in terms of Nitrifying bacteria and the nitrogen cycle till nitrate production.And I added 2 litres of it in the first chamber this weekend. I also added a layer of 92 pot scrubbers to utilise some more space in the sump. I have plenty of media to take care of the ammonia to nitrate reduction, 6 kg ceramic rings and 10 kg ceramic balls in addition to 92 pot scrubbers and 2 litres of K1 and lot of sponges. What I want when using media like biohome is nitrate reduction. Now plants barely survive at 31 degrees celsius or 88 Farenheit so that's not really an option in a Discus tank where 20 gms of ghm is fed daily in addition to 20 gms of dry food on a daily basis. Wish I do get to see the biohome doing something.
Fish in cycle you need the binding conditioner to keep the fish safe otherwise you can loose fish others say do daily water changes but that still removes the bacteria’s food but the binding conditioners from my understanding detoxify ammonia nitrite but it’s still available for the bacteria just converted into a bone toxic form
Well Aquarium Guru interesting but Not POND related as usual; I really enjoyed your pond content which seems to be almost forgotten - shame!
I gave up installing ponds a decade ago.
Yeah !!! My 1st Christmas gift ⛄🌲🤶🏻🍪🎅🏻,
i had a word with Cave Man aquatics ,, I had enough of his crap, after watching him kill his stingrays ,,, yes i stuck my ore in ,, its si visible whats going on ,,
what you say here totally make sense about water conditioners
All the best to ya from Southern England ,,
take cares Mate .
(my other channel) I haven't ever made a video about what Caveman Aquatics does or says because seeing anyone doing 80% water changes at least once a week illustrates perfectly that the filter is not functioning how it should be. I focus on getting filtration working properly for long term success and hope that people seeing ineffective filtration videos will have the intelligence to recognize a video which make sense and one which does not.
It's very frustrating to see so many people killing their fish, spending fortunes on unnecessary treatments and being so unaware of what their problems with a tank actually are but the fact is that most people are programmed to follow others and not think for themselves - my videos probably appeal to no more than 5% - 10% of the population since not many people can think for themselves and have critical thinking. Just look at the events of 2020 for evidence of that sad state of the human mind, lol
When a tank is properly set up and there is enough active bacteria present in a system there is never a need for huge water changes or to add extra 'treatments' (in addition to a simple water conditioner) to keep the water testing well and the only beneficiaries of poor filtration and bad advice are the chemical companies selling their products to people who blindly trust them and listen to their paid online 'ambassadors / influencers'.
Who'd have thought that some of the treatments being sold as 'safe and effective' could cause side effects which need more treatments (from the same manufacturer) to treat the side effects? If only we had a recent example of this phenomena......
Cui Bono (who benefits) / follow the money.
Best of luck with your tank and thanks for watching and commenting.
thanks ,, yes theres four you tube sights in america that are getting an unfollow from me ,, Just cant watch and swallow how they promote there wears and way of keeping fish in our hobby ..
@@ThousandYardStare
My problem is Nitrate. I get a reading of 80 ppm out the tap. So, even if I have a decent amount of anaerobic bacteria, as soon as I do a water change I increase Nitrate. Tell me if I'm wrong but the only way is to use RO water with added minerals.
Long term that would be a convenient solution, yes. As long as you remineralise the RO water it is fine to use but you would still need a suitable sized filter set up properly to process the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate generated in the tank.
@@pondguru Thanks for the reply. Yes, I do remineralise the RO water. Also heavily planted tank and 5 kg of Biome in my Allpondsolutions canister filter.
@@alanvanderhaegen4936 Good stuff - best of luck with the tank.
Do you think Seachem prime is safe????
That's a funny question since seachem do a powdered version of prime which is called 'safe', lol
Prime essentially starves beneficial bacteria by locking up the food it needs to thrive - that results in an artificially low population of bacteria which is boosted by another product called 'stability' which most people using prime are tricked into buying. The stability masks the side effects caused by prime and the only winner in that situation is seachem who banks profits from two products instead of one. It's a very exploitative pharmaceutical business model and prime is not something I could ever promote although plenty of (paid) 'ambassadors' online would promote it no problem while doing 80% water changes weekly to show everyone that they've murdered the bacteria in their filters, lol.
@@ThousandYardStare Im confused with your comment. If Prime is Staving beneficial bacteria by locking up the food it needs to survive then how does it ever grow reach a point where there is enough to support the fish in the tank? Interestingly could you please tell me where you get your information regarding your statement of Prime and Stability from as its contradictory what Seachem says. One question asked on the Seachem site :-
If Prime® is removing ammonia from the system, won’t that starve the beneficial bacteria?
Answer : Prime® does not remove ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate from the system. It simply binds with those compounds making them harmless to the inhabitants and still bioavailable to the beneficial bacteria.
So, If thats true then your Stability statement is also questionable unless you have proof and would like to share with us so we all can embarrass the big chemical conglomerates for ripping us off.
@@flatbit3090 This post further explains and has some very good comments on it: ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxFdgRRt6GxA1o3ffDzsF5dbOaB5xAuoFX
I made a video specifically on the topic of water conditioners topic here: ua-cam.com/video/1YCtMYZQlig/v-deo.html and it also has some decent comments on it.
I got asked a very similar question on that video and this was my response:
It works as intended as a conditioner but in 10+ years of dealing with systems achieving a full cycle the one constant factor when people struggle is seachem prime. That would indicate that it is having a retarding / starving effect on the bacteria.
If you look at any seachem forum there will be a nation of people still struggling to get 0 ammoinia and 0 nitrite after 7-8 weeks which is ridiculous - the 'solution' offered is for them to buy Stability and overdose the tank with that 'treatment' until there is 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite.
The conditioner choice also works the other way too as I've had loads of people who had previously had a perfect cycle 0,0,0 contact me and ask if the biohome had stopped working since their nitrate was suddenly high - the common factor? they had changed from a normal conditioner to prime. The solution? change the conditioner back to a normal conditioner. The result? a perfect cycle is resumed.
This post has some great comments on it: ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxFdgRRt6GxA1o3ffDzsF5dbOaB5xAuoFX
....and here is one in particular which is similar to messages I get every day:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
@leytonaustin2359
3 weeks ago
I went to Biohome and set my pumps up exactly like you suggest after discussing and researching a couple of years ago. After nearly killing my discus with a massive ammonia spike, and using Seachem Prime, I spoke to you who suggested water changing to get rid of the prime and trusting the media. I’ve not had an issue since, and last time I checked, both my tanks, both with FX6’s brimmed to the fullest with Biohome, are fully cycled and 0,0,0, at most 0,0,10.
Thanks for the help!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you look at channels which are 'ambassadors' for the seachem products they are generally doing massive weekly water changes (up to 80%) on their cichlid tanks - that shows you that they've effectively killed their filter through starving the bacteria.
Prime suspect ☺️
The effectiveness of nitrifying bacteria's ability to colonise your media has nothing to do with how porous it is. K1 media is not porous, and its be shown to be the best out there both statically, and fluidly. Porous media clogs easily, and encourages Heterotrophic bacteria which can slow down, and even stall your filter altogether. Bacteria needs a good flow of oxygen so it easily colonises onto media instead of through it. The structure of biohome is to tight to allow the flow of water through the media which the bacteria thrives on.
Here's one thing to think about. Back in the day before I knew any better I added ammonia removing pads into a Eheim canister I was running on a 55 gal tank. I've always made sure my tanks are cycled properly before having fish in them and this tank was no different but I thought, what the heck, and added the ammonia removing media!! Big big mistake!! By adding the ammonia removing media to my canister filter caused alllllll my beneficial bacteria to die off completely!!! Since ammonia is the starting point for beneficial bacteria to grow and multiply and I took that out of the equation and consequently all my beneficial bacteria basically starved to death. If its an emergency situation and you need to remove ammonia in a hurry, Seachem Prime or any of the other similar products out the is the way to go. No fuss no muss quick temporary fix until you can get your tank figured out and properly cycled again.
Products for lazy fish keepers .The only one i keep on hand is carbon for cleaning water after medication if needed
I bet you get shit tons of liberty cap shrooms growing in those pastures in the back drop
Not now that the fields get artificial fertiliser lashed on them wide a year - it pretty much kills off the fungus of all types in the soil.
Siporax is the very best biological filter media .. you’re filter is mechanic absolutely not biological .. you don’t understand filtermaterial at alll
😂 Is this the only video you've watched from this channel?
Feel free to expand on that point or better still make a video explaining your thoughts and post the link here no worries - after all, that's what UA-cam was designed for. Feel free to rip any parts of any of my videos - for a well argued retort that's no problem we are all here to learn.