Very useful info here Stuart especially for those of us who are not teenagers anymore and have realized that we don't know everything about everything after all. Thanks for the video.
I sincerely appreciate this densely packed video. First video of yours I've watched and I instantly subscrbied. Thanks for putting this into the universe.
I have to confess that Ive used my drill chuck to hold an end mill from time to time for a quick and dirty clearing operation... I never thought about the possibility of damaging my chuck... lol. You covered alot of ground in this one. I had to watch it a few times to let it sink in.
I got a set of wavy parallels in an auction and the previous owner had WAVY GRAVY's written in sharpie on the box. That machinist must have been at Woodstock in his younger years, man!
All good info. Re 1 2 3 blocks, although a hard metal the clearance hole can be easily drilled with a solid carbide end mill, which can legitimately b used in a drill chuck as you are drilling a hole but maybe best not.
Got a good deal on a bench top mill, a 12 x 36 lathe, and quite a bit of tooling. I haven't even set them up yet since watching videos like yours seems a more appropriate start. I live in a little farm and ranch town an hour from the next town as large. I wonder your opinion of buying used or Chinese tooling listed on eBay or Amazon. Anyone?
Used tooling can be a crap shoot. Quite often there can be dents, chip scars, etc. on the taper that can affect your runout. Unless you can see it in person or they have really excellent pics of the tapers, I'd be a little wary. I've had excellent luck with the tooling from shars.com. I have their R8 collets and endmill holders as well as some ER collet chucks from them. Glacern.com is another good source. I have keyless chucks and ER collet chucks from them. The quality is excellent. Not sponsored by either one. Just a happy customer. Good luck in your new adventure!
One thing you must remember when using ER collets is that the shank must be completely through the collet. If it isn't it can and will come loose ruining your cut. I didn't know this when I first started using them and twice had the cutter drop down ruining my piece.
I got into manual machining about twenty years ago and from the beginning all instruction said to never use a collet for holding end mills or any tooling in the mill but to use tool holders designed for the task. Since You Tube came along almost invariably when I watch videos they use collets to hold the cutters. Seems that is the approved way but it leaves me wondering as the chinesium floods the market, does one need to purchase a set of metric collets for them?? Do they even make 5C or ER metric collets? Or are there R8 holders made for them? Thanks for any clarification.
Yes to all accounts. With 5C and R8, they can't close very much so if you want to hold a metric endmill or metric stock, you need to have the correct sized collet. ER collets have a wider range. You just have to make sure you're gripping on the entire length of the collet. Regarding what you were told about collets in the beginning, there's a kernel of truth to it. Endmills can slip out if collets if they're not tightened enough, but you get much better concentricity compared to endmill holders, so your tools are less likely to chip.
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks for the quick reply! Guess I will have to get a metric set of the Er40 to go with all the others. Hadn't thought about the lack of the weldon cutout on the metric cutters. Very good point!! Thanks again. Just added you to the subscription list.
For the straight shank on the short drill chuck, could you cut that down, to make changing between it and a 1/2" endmill easy? Or would you introduce too much runout from not 'filling' the back of the collet?
@@markvanderveer409 There's a lot of "it depends" in this answer. Are there any straight parts on the piece? If so, start there. If not, are you making the part from scratch or modifying an existing part? If making from scratch, I'd leave some sacrificial material on the end and hold it with that, cut the keyway, then cut off the excess and finish the part. If it already exists...well, you'll have to get creative. I'd probably make a fixture to hold it with the negative shape. You'll need to have some way of clamping it down and a stop on the large end of the taper to keep it from getting launched across the shop. That’s the kind of job that can take hours to set up and minutes to machine.
Very verbose video. Thank you. What fixture would you recommend for someone with a morse taper no 3 spindle on their lathe and wants to do light milling using a lathe milling slide?
You should be able to find Morse 3 endmill holders and then rig up a drawbar to hold them through the spindle. That could be as simple as some all-thread with some washers and a nut to pull the endmill holder in. I wouldn’t do it without a drawbar though. Side loads can pop a Morse taper loose from the spindle.
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks for the advice. Probably the easier way to go than stuffing around with a bespoke holder that threads onto the spindle. Even though my lathe is a screwcutters lathe, it requires rebuilding a gearbox for each and every pitch....
Very useful info here Stuart especially for those of us who are not teenagers anymore and have realized that we don't know everything about everything after all. Thanks for the video.
Very informative.
This is nicely done. A great primer on milling basics.
You're absolutely right. Work holding ends where imagination ends.
Nice one, Stuart. I enjoyed very much.
Great vidio
This has been very helpful. I need to find your other videos
Thank You Stuart......best wishes from Florida, Paul
This is the most useful video I have ever seen on this damn platform. Subscribed.
Most complete video about this topic I've seen. I'm a real tyro at machining, so far.
We all start somewhere. Ask lots of questions, have fun, and above all else, be safe. Thanks for watching!
I sincerely appreciate this densely packed video. First video of yours I've watched and I instantly subscrbied. Thanks for putting this into the universe.
Well I appreciate your appreciation! Thanks for watching!
Really helpful. Thank you.
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching!
One but a very explanatory and throughout observes seen on YT! 👍👏🏻
wow so much content. well done and thanks for sharing. my 9yr old daughter loved it too. 😊
Thank you, and it's always a pleasure to meet another Stuart/Stewart!
Guy, this video is remarkably informative. Incredible presentation skills. Earned my sub easily. Keep up the good work.
I'm really thankful for this video. So many great tips 👍
Great summary 👍😎👍
Excellent overview, thanks for this
Very good informative video
ThanKs
Thank you for the video; I always pick up several ideas from watching your videos. Looking forward to the 1-2-3 block video.
Nice rundown! I'm looking forward to the 1-2-3 block video.
That's one I've been meaning to make for a while. Stay tuned.
Great job Stuart. I picked up a couple of useful tips. Thanks.
Where though, is Aluminum "low cost?" I'd like to get some! LOL
Fair point. Nothing is low cost right now.
Great checklist!
Great video. Thank you. I like the longer videos you make.
I have to confess that Ive used my drill chuck to hold an end mill from time to time for a quick and dirty clearing operation... I never thought about the possibility of damaging my chuck... lol. You covered alot of ground in this one. I had to watch it a few times to let it sink in.
I got a set of wavy parallels in an auction and the previous owner had WAVY GRAVY's written in sharpie on the box. That machinist must have been at Woodstock in his younger years, man!
Great video, thank you
All good info.
Re 1 2 3 blocks, although a hard metal the clearance hole can be easily drilled with a solid carbide end mill, which can legitimately b used in a drill chuck as you are drilling a hole but maybe best not.
Thank you. A much needed and informative refresher...🙂
Excellent info.Thank you.
👍on the Pink Floyd shirt 👕
Great video. Very helpful for this beginner!
Bom video parabéns 😊
Got a good deal on a bench top mill, a 12 x 36 lathe, and quite a bit of tooling. I haven't even set them up yet since watching videos like yours seems a more appropriate start. I live in a little farm and ranch town an hour from the next town as large. I wonder your opinion of buying used or Chinese tooling listed on eBay or Amazon. Anyone?
Used tooling can be a crap shoot. Quite often there can be dents, chip scars, etc. on the taper that can affect your runout. Unless you can see it in person or they have really excellent pics of the tapers, I'd be a little wary. I've had excellent luck with the tooling from shars.com. I have their R8 collets and endmill holders as well as some ER collet chucks from them. Glacern.com is another good source. I have keyless chucks and ER collet chucks from them. The quality is excellent. Not sponsored by either one. Just a happy customer. Good luck in your new adventure!
Thanks for your videos, subscribed. Which size is that mill vise you have, 6 inches? Cheers.
Hi Fernando. Sorry I didn't get back to you on this earlier. Yes, it is a 6" mill vise.
One thing you must remember when using ER collets is that the shank must be completely through the collet. If it isn't it can and will come loose ruining your cut. I didn't know this when I first started using them and twice had the cutter drop down ruining my piece.
Excellent point that I should have mentioned, although I did cover it in the longer ER collet video.
I got into manual machining about twenty years ago and from the beginning all instruction said to never use a collet for holding end mills or any tooling in the mill but to use tool holders designed for the task. Since You Tube came along almost invariably when I watch videos they use collets to hold the cutters. Seems that is the approved way but it leaves me wondering as the chinesium floods the market, does one need to purchase a set of metric collets for them?? Do they even make 5C or ER metric collets? Or are there R8 holders made for them? Thanks for any clarification.
Yes to all accounts. With 5C and R8, they can't close very much so if you want to hold a metric endmill or metric stock, you need to have the correct sized collet. ER collets have a wider range. You just have to make sure you're gripping on the entire length of the collet. Regarding what you were told about collets in the beginning, there's a kernel of truth to it. Endmills can slip out if collets if they're not tightened enough, but you get much better concentricity compared to endmill holders, so your tools are less likely to chip.
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks for the quick reply! Guess I will have to get a metric set of the Er40 to go with all the others. Hadn't thought about the lack of the weldon cutout on the metric cutters. Very good point!! Thanks again. Just added you to the subscription list.
For the straight shank on the short drill chuck, could you cut that down, to make changing between it and a 1/2" endmill easy? Or would you introduce too much runout from not 'filling' the back of the collet?
Absolutely. I have a keyless chuck that I did that to. Collets grip at the front and only for about an inch or so. That’s all you really need.
how do I hold a tapered round in the mill to cut a keyway in it?
@@markvanderveer409 There's a lot of "it depends" in this answer. Are there any straight parts on the piece? If so, start there. If not, are you making the part from scratch or modifying an existing part? If making from scratch, I'd leave some sacrificial material on the end and hold it with that, cut the keyway, then cut off the excess and finish the part. If it already exists...well, you'll have to get creative. I'd probably make a fixture to hold it with the negative shape. You'll need to have some way of clamping it down and a stop on the large end of the taper to keep it from getting launched across the shop. That’s the kind of job that can take hours to set up and minutes to machine.
I was on the edge of my seat watching this "GRIPPING" video. 😑
That's some quality punmanship
Very verbose video. Thank you. What fixture would you recommend for someone with a morse taper no 3 spindle on their lathe and wants to do light milling using a lathe milling slide?
You should be able to find Morse 3 endmill holders and then rig up a drawbar to hold them through the spindle. That could be as simple as some all-thread with some washers and a nut to pull the endmill holder in. I wouldn’t do it without a drawbar though. Side loads can pop a Morse taper loose from the spindle.
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks for the advice. Probably the easier way to go than stuffing around with a bespoke holder that threads onto the spindle. Even though my lathe is a screwcutters lathe, it requires rebuilding a gearbox for each and every pitch....