As for the Sawbwa resplendens, I really feel that the temps are having an affect on them as they prefer cooler waters. I am trying my best to keep their water cooler. Also, In-depth aquarium maintenance video and Lily Pipe usage video coming soon! Be sure to follow me on Instagram @ryowatanabee for more pictures and updates
Hey man I live in Phoenix Arizona where it is regularly 40 degrees C. I had many issues with a overheating tank as well. The best solution I found was simply a small fan attached to my tank. The fan i have is a usb fan intended for computers and it is aimed down at the water. It cools the water down by 10-15 percent with ease, and you can control the temp with the fan speed. This is more economical than ac and lets you control the temp from tank to tank easily. Hope that this helps!
Cooling fans might work. Or you can use a chiller, much more effective. If its too expensive, you can also make your own diy chillers, using peltier plates and cooling fans...
You can put same ice cubes before you go out home. So you could turn off the air conditioner. Don’t put too much ice cubes, you can try once when you remain at home too se how many ice to put.
Why don’t you try putting a small fan close to your lily pipes or just in the top to help cool the air 🤔I had the same problem happen to me and I cooled done the temp by hanging a small computer fan I had laying around after a couple min my temp drastically changed from 85 f to to 75 f witch was perfect to keep my tank at a nice room temp 🤔👌🏽
If this tank gets as high as 34 degrees, the outdoor rice-fish pots must be close to boiling in the scorching sun. The rice-fish is truly a resilient fish. As others pointed out, a skinny fish might be an indication of it having a parasite.
I think your current issues with the 60P are temperature related. The plants are struggling since it's too warm and as the leaves begin to decay they release ammonia and other forms of waste that trigger algae.
Hey man I live in Phoenix Arizona where it is regularly 40 degrees C. I had many issues with a overheating tank as well. The best solution I found was simply a small fan attached to my tank. The fan i have is a usb fan intended for computers and it is aimed down at the water. It cools the water down by 10-15 percent with ease, and you can control the temp with the fan speed. This is more economical than ac and lets you control the temp from tank to tank easily. Hope that this helps!
Ryo here is a possible solution to your room getting too warm. You are getting a lot radiated heat coming through your sliding glass door. You may want to hang some kind of screen to filter the sunlight coming into the room. A bamboo curtain or a sliding door fixture to filter the light. I've seen in some old Japanese homes a sliding door that does just that, reduce the light entering the home but allowing air flow at the same time. There is tint that won't darken a room at all but will reflect the light energy back. I think they call them neutral tint. I had one put on the front windshield of my mini-van to reflect the heat. It did wonders to help keep the van cooler.
You can use a bottle filled with frozen water and let it float in your aquarium to cool it. Always have an extra one in the freezer while you're using the other one. Keep at it 👍
I have some temperature problems here in Brazil too, the way i found to solve it is keeping some frozen water bottles in the fridge and dumping then in the tanks when its too hot, keep the airstone on 24/7 will help to save the fish too.
@@RyoWatanabee if humidity is not too high, fan will be the best choice. I use 5 8cm PC fans runing24/7 for my 804545 tank and it drops at least 4'C. It's 32 outside and 26 in the tank today
Another great video! Seems like BBA has some relation to temperature increase specifically. I live in SoCal and right when the temps started increasing last week, BBA showed up. No other algae in my tanks strangely. Only success I’ve had is trimming the plants and scraping all the rocks it appears on.
Hi Ryo, it is easy way to take tempreture down. Do not close the top of aquarium. When the water evaporate the temperature going down. Also you can use freeze plastic bottle in it. Ideal temperature is 23-24 degreese.
I too, live in Japan and had several issues with high water temperatures. You need to put some cooling fans on the tank and that will do just fine. Don't get an inline water cooler as it costs too much. As for your lily pipe, remove it. You need more water circulation and I have found from past experiences the lily pipe is not capable of doing this. Pick up an Ehiem output nozzle and you will see a difference. Keep up the great videos and hopefully we can meet sometime in the future! 頑張ってください。
Hey Ryo.. great videos...just a suggestion... instead of aeration, I use a twinstar sterilizer in my tank. Electrolysis of the water is sufficient to provide enough O2 overnight for my tank. But thats just my experience so far. I have a 60p as well and I use an eheim 2215 and try to get a lot more surface movement than you have on your tank. I know it means CO2 can also diffuse, but I’d take my chances. I have in the past injected too much CO2 and lost fish as well. So far, for my bio load and filtration, the twinstar seems to be adequate for producing O2 at night.
Distqrt... That's in Japan. Once it's in another countr, the price may change do to cost import and extra charge that the custom office includes in every cargo that arrives in the country. Taxes they say!
Sawba resplendens aren't looking too hot, if what you're using right now doesnt work, levamisole and fenbendazole are both good dewormers. Fenbendazole also works great against hydra (and possibly planaria, haven't personally tried).
Hi Ryo... Thank you for your videos! I hope your fish and plants will be better soon. Maybe you should close the shoji door and close the shutters (ama-do) to your room. Maybe the sunlight is hitting your 60cm tank and heating the room and encouraging algae growth.
Great upload Ryo~! and thanks for responding to my comment about this exact subject a few videos ago and informing me about this topic. I've taken your advice and am picking up a pollen glass air and a pump for my 60p too! I think you nailed the assessment too, temperature seems like the biggest rival right now. Thanks again for making these videos they are a highlight of my day. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!
I'm living in Singapore and I managed to cure ich/ white spot naturally by turning off my chiller in my planted tank for 2 weeks and the temp was hovering around 29 degree and one time highest at 30. The white spots naturally went off by itself and I had resumed back my chiller. Guess really have to start fast the moment the white spots are spotted.
As temperature increases, oxygen's solubility in water decreases and i think CO2's increases (not sure). Whenever a heat wave comes i like to aerate more and do more frequent water changes. Pretty sure you know more than me, but it might help. Anyway I hope everything goes back to normal!
I am so sorry that your little fish are having such a challenge. 💔 They do seem on the thin side, maybe a little more food, or a different type of food? Whatever is wrong, I know you will work it out. 😊 I'm sure that your next video we will see happy, healthy fish.
Ryo, with skinny fish it is generally important to use an anti parasite food. I don't think Ick causes fish to be skinny. I don't know what is available in Nagoya but I would try to find a flake food with Metronidazole, praziquantel, and or Levamisole. Here in the states, Everything Aquatic sells good anti parasite flake foods, and Select Aquatics sells Levamisole that can just be added to the water as a powder. I don't know if they ship outside of the USA. Good luck, Chris
Ryo, if you want your tank to be algae free then the first thing you need to do is drop the temperature to 23-24° celsius. 30 1nd even 27 seven degrees celsius is way to hot for a planted tank.
I was going to say check gh and kh but the temperature is the problem for Shure. Cutting out the blue spectrum of light really helps with alge control, aquarium co-op taught me that. The other little fish look like they have internal parasites, general cure or prazipro with ick x will help for Shure, if you have those brands in Japan. But don't mix prozipro and ichx together.
Blackbeard algae is primarily caused by low co2 or fluctuating co2. When u aerate the water that much, youre getting rid of too much of the co2 and with that much lighting you'll surely run into problems. You just need surface agitation (not even a lot) and to turn off the co2 when the lights are out. Ive had tanks that ran co2 24/7 no aeration needed and had no algal problems whatsoever. I'm assuming temperature has something to deal with your algal problems, maybe imbalances or inconsistencies in water changes or dosing.
@@RyoWatanabee might be the temps then? Just keep up on the maintenance. Also, have the co2 run an hour or more before the lights turn on, this would build up enough co2 in the water column by the time the lights turn on.
I has same problem with ny pinatafida in my discus tank so took kt out snd out it in my othee tank that is at 23°C and they now grow like weeds. Just get a desk fan over the top of the water and it should bring temp down by 2-3 degrees and should b good. Cheers from Australia love your content
What about a fan blowing across the top of the tank? Aquarium Co-op just did a video on managing tanks in the heat. If you haven't seen it you might consider checking it out.
chillers can be expensive to run if your room is not insulated. Other option is to run a fan blowing air over the top of the tank, you can lower temp dramatically via evaporation :)
On aeration, I've dispensed with air stones because of all the bubbles and splashes and lifting the lily pipe daily just seems like too much of a hassle. So I use the Chihiros doctor (Twinstar nano) for this. It creates micro oxygen bubbles and I find it does just as well as the air stones with lifting the lily pipe for surface agitation.
Yeah, running a chiller on that tank will probably be cheaper than having the air con on all the time. I hope it bounces back for you and the fish don’t die anymore. 🙏🏼
Increase the evaporation rate from the aquarium and add more water as needed more frequently to reduce the water temperature in the fish tank. You can drop the temperature below 27 celsius as long as you keep up the evaporation rate constant and remove the moisture in the air around the tank. Where I live the area temperatures have been over 43 celsius (110 degrees F) for more than two weeks and I have been able to keep all my fish tanks below 80 fahrenheit (27 celsius) by evaporation alone. You need to keep the top surface of the water moving and open to evaporation.
I think your problem has to do with temperature. I live in Taiwan but I'm an American and true late there's not a whole lot of plants that can survive in my water because it's so warm. The temperature is 30° Celsius usually. The only plants that seem to do really well or anubias. surprisingly some of the waffle plants I purchased are doing well although it's a semi aquatic plant I've had it for at least a month and it's growing new leaves slowly. The waistera does really well. it's a stone plate and depending on how you plant it it depends on how it grows and it just grows wide so I actually use it as a foundation to build an island with anubias it's pretty cool actually
People seem to forget that water absorbs CO2 also, not just oxygen. So running air stones or similar things just sort of re-balances gases in the water.
Hey ryo, i had similar problems with algaes too, after sorting out the issue it's all good. Maybe you can consider those aquarium cooling fan? Where i'm from the the daily temperature is around 32c-34c. it is able to bring the temp from 31c to 27c-26c around there just that evaporation will also increase.
Hey hi I love your 60cm tank ...I am planning on building a low tech tank ..I wish you would show the CO2 setup which you have done ..presently I have few plants and moss in tank but they don't have co2 ...so I want to have an idea of the same ..thanks
how about possitioning those tubes and pipes on the middle of the side of the aquarium to avoid splashing out and no need for you to use aeration but I guess the light holder ia blocking it😅
Add some salt to the fish tank, rise temperature to around 28-31°. That's how people usually treat white spots on school fishes. Else wow, 31° planted tank and the amano shrimp is still alive. That's critical danger for shrimps. Good luck man
Good information, I think I realized why my leaves are browning from your video. Just a friendly critique, if you could hold your camera still and zoom smoothly, it would making it a lot easier to watch. It is a bit jarring.
Get an oscillating fan and set it to aim at the aquarium. They are low wattage. 84f/31 is way too hot. I dont think its too much light since the plant leaves are algae free. Lucky that Java moss takes more warm than any other moss I know of. You are 90% of the way there...I cant get H.pinnatifida to grow in my no Co2 tank,but Bolbitis looks good...after 8 months of slow growth it just this month send out fronds almost as large as the original sized (8") when I bought the plant. One more Ryan on Bolbitis? NEVER allow snails in the same tank with it. Ramshorn,Pond,Mystery...they can and will eat the roots of the plant even though the leaves are too tough..the roots are a delicacy. Mine improved also I think on a snail eradication program.
New subscriber here! Hope to see more of your vids. I just placed an order for that thermometer from ADA! Fish tanks are so complex... so many moving variables!
NO NO NO ... A high tech tank should ALWAYS be 22-23 C. The plants do well and and keeps down algae . Fish can take lower temperatures than what people advertise
Ryo here in Philippines since normal temperature here always hot, we use aquarium fans to cool the water. I know it will evaporate water faster than usual but it is better to cool water that way than use chiller which consumes more electricity and electricity here is very expensive. You just need to fill up the water here and there.
Dude, for the main tank it's definitely the high temperature... As for the Sawbwa, they could benefit of a higher temperature, most of the parasite doesn't resist over 35ºc Good luck!
I would add more Amano shrimps, and not feed them...just a little food for the Ember tetras...they’ll attack the BBA...could you put the Air con on a timer? For let’s say 5 mins an hour when your not home...Kind Regards Les
In the summer it gets 115 here so I get a bowl of dry ice and put my air pump above it on a platform and it sends cold air into the tank. Reduces the temp better than a chiller I had for my saltwater and it destroyed my electric bill. Move your Lilly over a half inch and no water on the floor.
Running cost for ac and chiller is about the same. You might want to try the computer cooling fan, put 2 fans above the water along summer, it can put the water to 26-27 degrees. And it's much cheaper to buy and the running cost is way more cheaper
hi Ryo, it's so helpful video coz my fish tank also struggles with melting plants and algae. so during the day time, they need CO2 and night time H2O right?
Keeping fish on & off for almost 40years. I used to feed my fish very sparingly at some point. My fishes were staving all the time & not happy. So i suggest best twice per day. Once per day for bare minimum. Also good Ideal to quarantine your fish for 1 week with "japanese yellow powder medicine" because if not you will let any unwanted stuff(bacterial, disease, parasitesetc) come freely to your tank.
In the wild, most fish don’t get the luxury of eating twice per day. Sometimes they’ll go weeks without food. I know my fish aren’t wild caught but this is what I learned from Aqua Revue and ADA staff. They feed once every two days and the fish do fine and breed in the tanks naturally. Thanks for the tip though :)
@@RyoWatanabee with higher temperatures the fish's metabolisms speeds up and need more food. you can definitely run co2 and high surface movement for aeration as long as co2 bubbles get pushed across the plants. im having issues as well. one otto in my tank mustve have scraped itself on a rock and has a bacterial/fungal infection and its looking worse everyday :/
Hey Ryo! I am moving to Okinawa this Spring and bringing my 2 freshwater tanks and 1 saltwater tank with me. I will be checking out that store in your previous video (Bianca?) for sure when I get situated. Would be awesome if I could potentially buy some plants from you or maybe you could check out my tanks and make a video on my setups? Thanks a ton for the great content!
Quick question I was wondering where you bought that air stone guard or if you know where I could get my hands on one . I’m from California but for some reason I can’t find where to buy one . Thank I’m advance hopefully you see this or someone that could help does !
Yes, these were made by owner of Aqua Revue so only he sells them. Aqua Shop Wasabi also has some but its not found anywhere else. You'd have to diy one. Its basically just a 5mm acrylic thats cut into a triangular shape
@@RyoWatanabee darn yeah I figured when I saw your video I tried looking online and I just couldn’t find anything but thanks for getting back! I appreciate it !
Your #1 problem: aeration. It is airing out the dissolved CO2. Don't worry about night time CO2 release. If you are worried, you can buy a solenoid controlled CO2 regulator to shut off the CO2 at night. Solution: Get a KH and PH test kit. Check your water KH is around 3-4 and PH around 6.2-6.8. If you reach this target, it means the CO2 is enough for plants and you should see pearling (O2 bubble release on the leaves). The reason why CO2 night time release will not affect fish because of the KH buffering effect to not let the dissolved CO2 go beyond its limit. Google KH buffering effect if you want to know more. I see you switch off the light because of algae problem. This is problem #2. Light promote photosynthesis. Less light = less plant activity to take up the nutrients = more food for algae. Problem#3: Your current plant list is considered slow growing plants. Plant more fast growing plants to take up the nutrient. Problem#4: Overdosing of micro nutrient like iron. I can see plant yellowing and that may prompt you to dose more micro fertilizers. BBA algae is a sign of excess micro in water.. Too much micro will also slow down plant growth. 31C temp is not a problem for your type of plants. Max water temp should not exceed 35C as this will severely affect CO2 dissolving. The ideal temp for CO2 to dissolve is 22C-27C. Think of your onsen. At high water temp CO2 will not dissolve but instead will precipitate to become solid lime giving the onsen water a milky color. So good luck.
As for the Sawbwa resplendens, I really feel that the temps are having an affect on them as they prefer cooler waters. I am trying my best to keep their water cooler.
Also, In-depth aquarium maintenance video and Lily Pipe usage video coming soon!
Be sure to follow me on Instagram @ryowatanabee for more pictures and updates
Hey man I live in Phoenix Arizona where it is regularly 40 degrees C. I had many issues with a overheating tank as well.
The best solution I found was simply a small fan attached to my tank. The fan i have is a usb fan intended for computers and it is aimed down at the water. It cools the water down by 10-15 percent with ease, and you can control the temp with the fan speed. This is more economical than ac and lets you control the temp from tank to tank easily.
Hope that this helps!
Cooling fans might work. Or you can use a chiller, much more effective. If its too expensive, you can also make your own diy chillers, using peltier plates and cooling fans...
You can put same ice cubes before you go out home. So you could turn off the air conditioner.
Don’t put too much ice cubes, you can try once when you remain at home too se how many ice to put.
Why don’t you try putting a small fan close to your lily pipes or just in the top to help cool the air 🤔I had the same problem happen to me and I cooled done the temp by hanging a small computer fan I had laying around after a couple min my temp drastically changed from 85 f to to 75 f witch was perfect to keep my tank at a nice room temp 🤔👌🏽
Are you keeping the tanks in the shade? Could perhaps surround them with stone because stone wont absorb the daytime heat so well?
If this tank gets as high as 34 degrees, the outdoor rice-fish pots must be close to boiling in the scorching sun. The rice-fish is truly a resilient fish. As others pointed out, a skinny fish might be an indication of it having a parasite.
Yup, the outdoor ponds get really warm
Green Aqua has a really good video where they are reviewing tanks and talk about optimal temps for planted tanks. Hope everything works out
A Wilson 23 degrees 🤪
I think your current issues with the 60P are temperature related. The plants are struggling since it's too warm and as the leaves begin to decay they release ammonia and other forms of waste that trigger algae.
Hey man I live in Phoenix Arizona where it is regularly 40 degrees C. I had many issues with a overheating tank as well.
The best solution I found was simply a small fan attached to my tank. The fan i have is a usb fan intended for computers and it is aimed down at the water. It cools the water down by 10-15 percent with ease, and you can control the temp with the fan speed. This is more economical than ac and lets you control the temp from tank to tank easily.
Hope that this helps!
Thank you fo the tips! I will try using some fans :)
Some aquaponics hobbyists just use a fan to cool the water. Simple evaporatative cooling!
Aquarium co op just done a live stream on keeping aquariums cooler , this may help.
Yup, watched it already
Ryo here is a possible solution to your room getting too warm. You are getting a lot radiated heat coming through your sliding glass door. You may want to hang some kind of screen to filter the sunlight coming into the room. A bamboo curtain or a sliding door fixture to filter the light. I've seen in some old Japanese homes a sliding door that does just that, reduce the light entering the home but allowing air flow at the same time. There is tint that won't darken a room at all but will reflect the light energy back. I think they call them neutral tint. I had one put on the front windshield of my mini-van to reflect the heat. It did wonders to help keep the van cooler.
You can use a bottle filled with frozen water and let it float in your aquarium to cool it. Always have an extra one in the freezer while you're using the other one. Keep at it 👍
That’s what I do 😁 I have like four ready to go at all times p
Thanks! That’s what I’m doing now :)
I have some temperature problems here in Brazil too, the way i found to solve it is keeping some frozen water bottles in the fridge and dumping then in the tanks when its too hot, keep the airstone on 24/7 will help to save the fish too.
Thanks for the tip. I’m doing that now :)
@@RyoWatanabee if humidity is not too high, fan will be the best choice. I use 5 8cm PC fans runing24/7 for my 804545 tank and it drops at least 4'C. It's 32 outside and 26 in the tank today
Skinny fish can often mean internal parasites. You might consider looking into intestinal worms/parasites treatments.
Another great video! Seems like BBA has some relation to temperature increase specifically. I live in SoCal and right when the temps started increasing last week, BBA showed up. No other algae in my tanks strangely. Only success I’ve had is trimming the plants and scraping all the rocks it appears on.
Hi Ryo, it is easy way to take tempreture down. Do not close the top of aquarium. When the water evaporate the temperature going down. Also you can use freeze plastic bottle in it. Ideal temperature is 23-24 degreese.
You can put a timer on the ac unit so it only turns on a few times a day. Controlling the amount of energy used.
I feel your pain. Nothing worse than when a tank goes out of balance. Good luck brother.
Thanks 🙏
I too, live in Japan and had several issues with high water temperatures. You need to put some cooling fans on the tank and that will do just fine. Don't get an inline water cooler as it costs too much.
As for your lily pipe, remove it. You need more water circulation and I have found from past experiences the lily pipe is not capable of doing this. Pick up an Ehiem output nozzle and you will see a difference.
Keep up the great videos and hopefully we can meet sometime in the future!
頑張ってください。
Hey Ryo.. great videos...just a suggestion... instead of aeration, I use a twinstar sterilizer in my tank. Electrolysis of the water is sufficient to provide enough O2 overnight for my tank. But thats just my experience so far. I have a 60p as well and I use an eheim 2215 and try to get a lot more surface movement than you have on your tank. I know it means CO2 can also diffuse, but I’d take my chances. I have in the past injected too much CO2 and lost fish as well. So far, for my bio load and filtration, the twinstar seems to be adequate for producing O2 at night.
Nobody comments how he is saying this ada stuff is cheap but in the UK its 5-10x the price 😭 one day
Let's move to Japan
Distqrt... That's in Japan. Once it's in another countr, the price may change do to cost import and extra charge that the custom office includes in every cargo that arrives in the country.
Taxes they say!
Looks like ADA now basically sell bleach for 8 quid a bottle.
The important thing is to not give up!! I hate BBA but I don't mind it too much. I hear bumping the co2 up more helps but have yet to try.
Sawba resplendens aren't looking too hot, if what you're using right now doesnt work, levamisole and fenbendazole are both good dewormers. Fenbendazole also works great against hydra (and possibly planaria, haven't personally tried).
Hey😂
Send me some please lol. Can’t find those meds here in Japan. I’m still not used to the types of fish meds here in Japan
Ryo Watanabe haha possibly! I’ll have to figure out how to mail to Japan first! Might take a while to get there but you’ll have it for the future LOL!
Good video and aquariums. Hope your sick fish get better. 👍
I think the lily outlet doesnt need to go that high. Halfway does the job so you wont get much splash.
Or moving it more to the middle?
Ged Farnan yea, halfway submersed
I'm so sorry about your rasbora resplendent, I wish you luck!
Thanks 🙏
Hi Ryo... Thank you for your videos! I hope your fish and plants will be better soon. Maybe you should close the shoji door and close the shutters (ama-do) to your room. Maybe the sunlight is hitting your 60cm tank and heating the room and encouraging algae growth.
Great upload Ryo~! and thanks for responding to my comment about this exact subject a few videos ago and informing me about this topic.
I've taken your advice and am picking up a pollen glass air and a pump for my 60p too!
I think you nailed the assessment too, temperature seems like the biggest rival right now.
Thanks again for making these videos they are a highlight of my day.
KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!
Thank you 😊 really appreciate that!
I'm living in Singapore and I managed to cure ich/ white spot naturally by turning off my chiller in my planted tank for 2 weeks and the temp was hovering around 29 degree and one time highest at 30. The white spots naturally went off by itself and I had resumed back my chiller. Guess really have to start fast the moment the white spots are spotted.
Thank you, but my tank is already at 30/31 degrees without a chiller... need to medicate and use some salts
@@RyoWatanabee how long they are at 30 degree from the onset of white spots? Hope all get well soon!
As temperature increases, oxygen's solubility in water decreases and i think CO2's increases (not sure). Whenever a heat wave comes i like to aerate more and do more frequent water changes.
Pretty sure you know more than me, but it might help.
Anyway I hope everything goes back to normal!
The 👑 of Aquariums!
I am so sorry that your little fish are having such a challenge. 💔 They do seem on the thin side, maybe a little more food, or a different type of food? Whatever is wrong, I know you will work it out. 😊 I'm sure that your next video we will see happy, healthy fish.
Yes, That's it Bro Ryo. Sharing not always need to be show the perfect tank, yours is a sharing journey to the perfect tank.Great work.
Yes, not everything will go according to plan. I want to show that I’m not perfect too
Ryo, with skinny fish it is generally important to use an anti parasite food. I don't think Ick causes fish to be skinny. I don't know what is available in Nagoya but I would try to find a flake food with Metronidazole, praziquantel, and or Levamisole. Here in the states, Everything Aquatic sells good anti parasite flake foods, and Select Aquatics sells Levamisole that can just be added to the water as a powder. I don't know if they ship outside of the USA.
Good luck,
Chris
Ryo, if you want your tank to be algae free then the first thing you need to do is drop the temperature to 23-24° celsius. 30 1nd even 27 seven degrees celsius is way to hot for a planted tank.
I was going to say check gh and kh but the temperature is the problem for Shure. Cutting out the blue spectrum of light really helps with alge control, aquarium co-op taught me that. The other little fish look like they have internal parasites, general cure or prazipro with ick x will help for Shure, if you have those brands in Japan. But don't mix prozipro and ichx together.
To cure ich or white spot, increase the temp and don’t do a water change or add any chemicals for 12 days
Why would I increase the temp if it’s already at 31° celcius? It’s already really warm
Blackbeard algae is primarily caused by low co2 or fluctuating co2. When u aerate the water that much, youre getting rid of too much of the co2 and with that much lighting you'll surely run into problems. You just need surface agitation (not even a lot) and to turn off the co2 when the lights are out. Ive had tanks that ran co2 24/7 no aeration needed and had no algal problems whatsoever. I'm assuming temperature has something to deal with your algal problems, maybe imbalances or inconsistencies in water changes or dosing.
I aerate the tank when the co2 is off. Co2 is on when lights are on. Aeration happens only at night
@@RyoWatanabee might be the temps then? Just keep up on the maintenance. Also, have the co2 run an hour or more before the lights turn on, this would build up enough co2 in the water column by the time the lights turn on.
I has same problem with ny pinatafida in my discus tank so took kt out snd out it in my othee tank that is at 23°C and they now grow like weeds. Just get a desk fan over the top of the water and it should bring temp down by 2-3 degrees and should b good. Cheers from Australia love your content
where did you get this "air guard"? and how big is the gap (can you measure exactly please) between this part and the glass? thanks
I hope your fish get better soon and i just wanted to say i really enjoy your vids
Thank you 🙏
Add fans, Ryo! Fans!
What about a fan blowing across the top of the tank? Aquarium Co-op just did a video on managing tanks in the heat. If you haven't seen it you might consider checking it out.
Yup, I watched the entire livestream already
@@RyoWatanabee Great! Good luck. I hope your fish make a full and easy recovery.
chillers can be expensive to run if your room is not insulated. Other option is to run a fan blowing air over the top of the tank, you can lower temp dramatically via evaporation :)
On aeration, I've dispensed with air stones because of all the bubbles and splashes and lifting the lily pipe daily just seems like too much of a hassle. So I use the Chihiros doctor (Twinstar nano) for this. It creates micro oxygen bubbles and I find it does just as well as the air stones with lifting the lily pipe for surface agitation.
Very nice your aquarium. I have pinnatifida but it withers a lot. What is your fertilization and how much light do you have? Thanks for the help.
Yeah, running a chiller on that tank will probably be cheaper than having the air con on all the time. I hope it bounces back for you and the fish don’t die anymore. 🙏🏼
ADA stuff is hard to find in Canada. If you do find it, its really expensive sadly. Great video Ryo :)
Increase the evaporation rate from the aquarium and add more water as needed more frequently to reduce the water temperature in the fish tank. You can drop the temperature below 27 celsius as long as you keep up the evaporation rate constant and remove the moisture in the air around the tank. Where I live the area temperatures have been over 43 celsius (110 degrees F) for more than two weeks and I have been able to keep all my fish tanks below 80 fahrenheit (27 celsius) by evaporation alone. You need to keep the top surface of the water moving and open to evaporation.
I think your problem has to do with temperature. I live in Taiwan but I'm an American and true late there's not a whole lot of plants that can survive in my water because it's so warm.
The temperature is 30° Celsius usually. The only plants that seem to do really well or anubias. surprisingly some of the waffle plants I purchased are doing well although it's a semi aquatic plant I've had it for at least a month and it's growing new leaves slowly.
The waistera does really well. it's a stone plate and depending on how you plant it it depends on how it grows and it just grows wide so I actually use it as a foundation to build an island with anubias it's pretty cool actually
People seem to forget that water absorbs CO2 also, not just oxygen. So running air stones or similar things just sort of re-balances gases in the water.
Ryo. Sawbwas my internal parasites. Try to find a food that contains some meds in it or probiotic. That can help.
Hey ryo, i had similar problems with algaes too, after sorting out the issue it's all good. Maybe you can consider those aquarium cooling fan? Where i'm from the the daily temperature is around 32c-34c. it is able to bring the temp from 31c to 27c-26c around there just that evaporation will also increase.
i've never used a airstone or the ''lilly pipe reise". ive never got any problems with it
NihlusGreen this summer around 27/28. But normally it’s around 25/26
Really enjoy your videos!
Thanks!
Hey hi I love your 60cm tank ...I am planning on building a low tech tank ..I wish you would show the CO2 setup which you have done ..presently I have few plants and moss in tank but they don't have co2 ...so I want to have an idea of the same ..thanks
11:58 so we all grown nobody's gonna talk about this😂😂😂
I'm dead. 🤣🤣
Oh no hope your tank gets well soon!😭
Thanks 🙏
how about possitioning those tubes and pipes on the middle of the side of the aquarium to avoid splashing out and no need for you to use aeration but I guess the light holder ia blocking it😅
A Fan auto-termo-controller is a good option 👍🏻
Add some salt to the fish tank, rise temperature to around 28-31°. That's how people usually treat white spots on school fishes.
Else wow, 31° planted tank and the amano shrimp is still alive. That's critical danger for shrimps. Good luck man
The temp is already 30° and if I add salt, my plants will struggle
Amano shrimps are Super hardy. They’ll live through anything.
hope you get everything sorted mate :)
Thanks 🙏
Good information, I think I realized why my leaves are browning from your video. Just a friendly critique, if you could hold your camera still and zoom smoothly, it would making it a lot easier to watch. It is a bit jarring.
Get an oscillating fan and set it to aim at the aquarium. They are low wattage. 84f/31 is way too hot. I dont think its too much light since the plant leaves are algae free. Lucky that Java moss takes more warm than any other moss I know of. You are 90% of the way there...I cant get H.pinnatifida to grow in my no Co2 tank,but Bolbitis looks good...after 8 months of slow growth it just this month send out fronds almost as large as the original sized (8") when I bought the plant.
One more Ryan on Bolbitis? NEVER allow snails in the same tank with it. Ramshorn,Pond,Mystery...they can and will eat the roots of the plant even though the leaves are too tough..the roots are a delicacy. Mine improved also I think on a snail eradication program.
New subscriber here! Hope to see more of your vids. I just placed an order for that thermometer from ADA! Fish tanks are so complex... so many moving variables!
Thank you so much 😊
NO NO NO ... A high tech tank should ALWAYS be 22-23 C. The plants do well and and keeps down algae . Fish can take lower temperatures than what people advertise
@ryanwatanabe seachem cupramine will demolish the ich on your fish and I highly recommend it. Good luck 🙌
Why dont you just move the lily pipe more towards the back
What is glass thickness what is the size of it tank its ultra clear glass ?
🤔
6mm
Ryo here in Philippines since normal temperature here always hot, we use aquarium fans to cool the water. I know it will evaporate water faster than usual but it is better to cool water that way than use chiller which consumes more electricity and electricity here is very expensive. You just need to fill up the water here and there.
Dude, for the main tank it's definitely the high temperature... As for the Sawbwa, they could benefit of a higher temperature, most of the parasite doesn't resist over 35ºc
Good luck!
I would add more Amano shrimps, and not feed them...just a little food for the Ember tetras...they’ll attack the BBA...could you put the Air con on a timer? For let’s say 5 mins an hour when your not home...Kind Regards Les
Yup, I can do that. I’m having the aircon on much longer now and the tank seems to be doing better
In the summer it gets 115 here so I get a bowl of dry ice and put my air pump above it on a platform and it sends cold air into the tank. Reduces the temp better than a chiller I had for my saltwater and it destroyed my electric bill. Move your Lilly over a half inch and no water on the floor.
Can the lily pipe be moved closer to the center so it doesn’t splash the side of the tank or get the floor wet?
By Green Aqua advice: No worries, make the temperature around 23-24 celsius maximum. Everything's gonna be alright! ;)
Hello, I am planning to visit japan someday, I have a question, if I buy medaka fish from japan can I take them with me in europe in my bags?
@NihlusGreen I will search more, I only asked cause they want like 70 euros (8734.66 yen) to bring me the fish.
The scape is pretty sweet tho- well done!
I love the aqua scaping very cool
Thank you 😊
I run aquarium fans for cooling the tanks down.. It reduces the temperature by 3-4 °C
What is the name or brand of that airstone splash guard??
For Black Beard Algae you could try Liquid carbon such as Seachem Flourish Excel just follow the instructions.
Running cost for ac and chiller is about the same. You might want to try the computer cooling fan, put 2 fans above the water along summer, it can put the water to 26-27 degrees. And it's much cheaper to buy and the running cost is way more cheaper
U can use aquarium salt and raise the temp in the tank.....in a separate tank. That should help them.
Yup
@@RyoWatanabee u can raise the temp upto 30°c
That would be the ideal temp for eliminating such ich and fungus.👍👍
Anjana Adhikary the temperature is already over 30°
Hello, what are the second pipe, the biggest? I search for my filter with 19/26mm and I don't find a good lily pipe for this diameter... Thks dude
Love the videos mate!!!
3:41 have never related to a pinnatifida plant more
I died laughing 🤣 9:10
Beautiful tanks they look great good job! Good luck with the sawbwa ! It's all a learning experience.
Thank you 😊
Do you have a black medaka ricefish because i never seen one before if you have it can you review it on your next videos?
You will see in my next video 👌
hi Ryo, it's so helpful video coz my fish tank also struggles with melting plants and algae. so during the day time, they need CO2 and night time H2O right?
Fish always need H2O ;-)
That’s right..
Move the pipe so it dont splash
Keeping fish on & off for almost 40years. I used to feed my fish very sparingly at some point. My fishes were staving all the time & not happy.
So i suggest best twice per day. Once per day for bare minimum.
Also good Ideal to quarantine your fish for 1 week with "japanese yellow powder medicine" because if not you will let any unwanted stuff(bacterial, disease, parasitesetc) come freely to your tank.
In the wild, most fish don’t get the luxury of eating twice per day. Sometimes they’ll go weeks without food.
I know my fish aren’t wild caught but this is what I learned from Aqua Revue and ADA staff. They feed once every two days and the fish do fine and breed in the tanks naturally.
Thanks for the tip though :)
@@RyoWatanabee with higher temperatures the fish's metabolisms speeds up and need more food. you can definitely run co2 and high surface movement for aeration as long as co2 bubbles get pushed across the plants. im having issues as well. one otto in my tank mustve have scraped itself on a rock and has a bacterial/fungal infection and its looking worse everyday :/
I really like your videos, nice content.
Godbless ❤️
Hey Ryo! I am moving to Okinawa this Spring and bringing my 2 freshwater tanks and 1 saltwater tank with me. I will be checking out that store in your previous video (Bianca?) for sure when I get situated. Would be awesome if I could potentially buy some plants from you or maybe you could check out my tanks and make a video on my setups? Thanks a ton for the great content!
Quick question I was wondering where you bought that air stone guard or if you know where I could get my hands on one . I’m from California but for some reason I can’t find where to buy one . Thank I’m advance hopefully you see this or someone that could help does !
Yes, these were made by owner of Aqua Revue so only he sells them. Aqua Shop Wasabi also has some but its not found anywhere else. You'd have to diy one. Its basically just a 5mm acrylic thats cut into a triangular shape
@@RyoWatanabee darn yeah I figured when I saw your video I tried looking online and I just couldn’t find anything but thanks for getting back! I appreciate it !
Try making thermostat coller with peltier chip it works for upto 40 gallon of water👍
I use the same in my tank and it works pretty well
HELLLLLO RYO AMAZING VIDEO BRO😄😄😄😄😄😄 LOVE FRM INDIA♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
Thanks 🙏
Ryo when are you returning to singapore
you might want to check if your CO2 diffuser is choked. the change in the CO2 levels could also be a cause of your tank rebalancing itself.
Do you have a link to the medication you used?
as for those fish increase aeration, do large water change and i use tri sulfa to med fish, if whitespot it helps immensely without affecting plants
Your #1 problem: aeration. It is airing out the dissolved CO2. Don't worry about night time CO2 release. If you are worried, you can buy a solenoid controlled CO2 regulator to shut off the CO2 at night. Solution: Get a KH and PH test kit. Check your water KH is around 3-4 and PH around 6.2-6.8. If you reach this target, it means the CO2 is enough for plants and you should see pearling (O2 bubble release on the leaves). The reason why CO2 night time release will not affect fish because of the KH buffering effect to not let the dissolved CO2 go beyond its limit. Google KH buffering effect if you want to know more.
I see you switch off the light because of algae problem. This is problem #2. Light promote photosynthesis. Less light = less plant activity to take up the nutrients = more food for algae. Problem#3: Your current plant list is considered slow growing plants. Plant more fast growing plants to take up the nutrient. Problem#4: Overdosing of micro nutrient like iron. I can see plant yellowing and that may prompt you to dose more micro fertilizers. BBA algae is a sign of excess micro in water.. Too much micro will also slow down plant growth. 31C temp is not a problem for your type of plants. Max water temp should not exceed 35C as this will severely affect CO2 dissolving. The ideal temp for CO2 to dissolve is 22C-27C. Think of your onsen. At high water temp CO2 will not dissolve but instead will precipitate to become solid lime giving the onsen water a milky color. So good luck.
Where did you get the corner air bubble guard?
Aqua Revue in Japan. Otherwise, you can make one out of acrylic
Hope everything goes good
“Wet the tip so it slides on easily” best line of the video.