I did a conversion with a motor from a CD player. It fit good, but for some reason it started running slower. I don't know if I was the cause of the motor, but it really ran great. So I opted for a conversion sold on ebay, but he don't list it anymore. Don't know why, but he does list others. His User ID is cv-backshop. You could ask him about it. The only thing is if you get his conversion, which works, you have to modify where the motor is mounted, as in cutting off the old mounts where the motor screws are. So if you don't want to do that, I would try the CD motor first. See this video of mine. I just unloaded it today. Y6b Test DCC & Sound with CD Player motor. Hope this helps. Good Luck.
@@jtw37 with the old riv motors even isolating that brass bushing its pressed in the motor casing then you screw motor to frame now you would thing that taking the metal clip off the motor like you did would stop any type of current from getting to the train casing not always i dont know why but sometimes it gets something enough to mess with the dcc decorder more so when there is sound even to the point that it causes the decoder to flip out one . i think is the carbon on the commentator side that makes a connection to the shaft that goes threw the brass bushing i actually used a meter and had a very small amount of resistance from then shaft to a motor contact i think that pushes it over the edge. i have even put motors in them and have had an issue i was forced to make a plastic mount for the motor and with same brand replacement motor i had no problems i also found some dcc decoders are more sensitive the digitrax if the volume was up all the way and you sounded the whistle is would stall sometimes and the MRC/ LX decoder would flip out causing you to loss control of the train i have tried a lot of motors spent a ton of money the best motor i found that gave me more speed than the train should even go and a ton of torque was $5 no fly wheel nothing its a little less than hot after running it for 25 mins straight but iam happy with it. if you type in rivarossi big boy $5 motor swap watch the video sorry for the long message and my spelling ps i cut the frame motor doesnt stick out at all on the mallet conversion it comes out as much as the factory motor
The slow speed running looked pretty smooth for that old three pole motor. Impressive
Yea, it worked okay until I installed sound. So I have changed the motor for one that doesn't have the high amp draw.
Thank you for posting this. I am not going to convert mine to DCC but I learned a lot.
That's cool, but I've converted all of my engines to DCC and I won't go back. I also upgraded to a different motor and it works good.
What motor would you recommend if I wanted to replace the old motor but stay within the old motor's dimensions and have it work with DCC and sound?
I did a conversion with a motor from a CD player. It fit good, but for some reason it started running slower. I don't know if I was the cause of the motor, but it really ran great. So I opted for a conversion sold on ebay, but he don't list it anymore. Don't know why, but he does list others. His User ID is cv-backshop. You could ask him about it. The only thing is if you get his conversion, which works, you have to modify where the motor is mounted, as in cutting off the old mounts where the motor screws are. So if you don't want to do that, I would try the CD motor first. See this video of mine. I just unloaded it today. Y6b Test DCC & Sound with CD Player motor. Hope this helps. Good Luck.
@@jtw37 Thanks! I've been wanting to try some sort of conversion on one of my DC engines, so I think my Y6b may be a good start.
@@jtw37 with the old riv motors even isolating that brass bushing its pressed in the motor casing then you screw motor to frame now you would thing that taking the metal clip off the motor like you did would stop any type of current from getting to the train casing not always i dont know why but sometimes it gets something enough to mess with the dcc decorder more so when there is sound even to the point that it causes the decoder to flip out one . i think is the carbon on the commentator side that makes a connection to the shaft that goes threw the brass bushing i actually used a meter and had a very small amount of resistance from then shaft to a motor contact i think that pushes it over the edge. i have even put motors in them and have had an issue i was forced to make a plastic mount for the motor and with same brand replacement motor i had no problems i also found some dcc decoders are more sensitive the digitrax if the volume was up all the way and you sounded the whistle is would stall sometimes and the MRC/ LX decoder would flip out causing you to loss control of the train i have tried a lot of motors spent a ton of money the best motor i found that gave me more speed than the train should even go and a ton of torque was $5 no fly wheel nothing its a little less than hot after running it for 25 mins straight but iam happy with it. if you type in rivarossi big boy $5 motor swap watch the video sorry for the long message and my spelling ps i cut the frame motor doesnt stick out at all on the mallet conversion it comes out as much as the factory motor