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Yea, it's old, but it's still running good. I haven't posted much and not sure if I will again. But thanks for subscribing.

@@jtw37 Your Welcome 😁

The instructions that come with your decoder should give you that information. Not knowing what decoder you have, I can't say.

So far it has performed pretty well, except it occasionally will have a start issue. But I'm inclined to believe that I need to attend to the brushes. Otherwise I have no complaints.

That's cool, but I've converted all of my engines to DCC and I won't go back. I also upgraded to a different motor and it works good.

Yea, it worked okay until I installed sound. So I have changed the motor for one that doesn't have the high amp draw.

I did a conversion with a motor from a CD player. It fit good, but for some reason it started running slower. I don't know if I was the cause of the motor, but it really ran great. So I opted for a conversion sold on ebay, but he don't list it anymore. Don't know why, but he does list others. His User ID is cv-backshop. You could ask him about it. The only thing is if you get his conversion, which works, you have to modify where the motor is mounted, as in cutting off the old mounts where the motor screws are. So if you don't want to do that, I would try the CD motor first. See this video of mine. I just unloaded it today. Y6b Test DCC & Sound with CD Player motor. Hope this helps. Good Luck.

@@jtw37 Thanks! I've been wanting to try some sort of conversion on one of my DC engines, so I think my Y6b may be a good start.

@@jtw37 with the old riv motors even isolating that brass bushing its pressed in the motor casing then you screw motor to frame now you would thing that taking the metal clip off the motor like you did would stop any type of current from getting to the train casing not always i dont know why but sometimes it gets something enough to mess with the dcc decorder more so when there is sound even to the point that it causes the decoder to flip out one . i think is the carbon on the commentator side that makes a connection to the shaft that goes threw the brass bushing i actually used a meter and had a very small amount of resistance from then shaft to a motor contact i think that pushes it over the edge. i have even put motors in them and have had an issue i was forced to make a plastic mount for the motor and with same brand replacement motor i had no problems i also found some dcc decoders are more sensitive the digitrax if the volume was up all the way and you sounded the whistle is would stall sometimes and the MRC/ LX decoder would flip out causing you to loss control of the train i have tried a lot of motors spent a ton of money the best motor i found that gave me more speed than the train should even go and a ton of torque was $5 no fly wheel nothing its a little less than hot after running it for 25 mins straight but iam happy with it. if you type in rivarossi big boy $5 motor swap watch the video sorry for the long message and my spelling ps i cut the frame motor doesnt stick out at all on the mallet conversion it comes out as much as the factory motor

Kadee has a pdf that you can download that shows how they suggest doing this. The only problem with it is, I attempted it and ruined one of the trucks for this engine. So I found a different way doing it. I will have toget the engine a look to give you a better description, as I have converted most of my engines over to Kadee. So I will get back to you, hopefully this evening.

John White thanks!

@@yellowbonnetproductions5424 Just checked out my GP18's and what I did is mount the coupler on top of the coupler arm on the truck with either a No# 22 or 25 Kadee with their coupler box. It matches up good and you won't destroy the truck. The 22 coupler is a medium length and the 25 is short. Either one should work for you.

John White how do you remove the hornhook coupler from the truck? I can’t access it. Do u just pull it out? Neither did I see any screws holding down the old coupler

That's the whole idea, to help someone with the question, can I do it? These don't have the best motor for DCC, but they do work.

Haven't had much practice with sound decoders much so can't help you there.

They did have two different set up's for these engines. The other had a big weight on top of the motor, which I removed in order to put in the decoder. They also came out at a later date with a totally different motor, which is still good. Just not a good as the motors in these. These type will crawl along quite well. The newer, I think newer ones, do very well also. I just prefer these motors. Want to get a sound decoder for at least one of the, ass I have to many to do sound in all of them. As for the newer ones having a flywheel, they do with the same motor. Can't remember if the F-3's do or not. Anyway thanks for your post.

Like the idea of DCC and sound in a heavy HO loco. Do you know the stall current draw of these motors? From what I have learned about DCC the motors stall current draw has to be within the tolerances of the decoder or the magic smoke comes out of them. I have done the stall current test with a digital meter but had a bad experience. Seems the digital meter averaged it out rather then giving it a true reading that a old accurate analog meter did in 12 volts DC. Could of been my digital meter,but it works well for everything else.

I've used NCE and Digitrax in locomotives including AHM, Athearn Blue Box, Model Power, Atlas, Proto 2000, Walthers Trainline and Tyco. Have not had any issues with any of them. Most of my power is of the 70's through 90's or before DCC was even thought of.

There are two tabs by the fuel tank. Gently pull both sides out on the shell to release it from the tabs and it should come right off. You may need to shake it a bit, so make sure you do it over your work area.

Just to make sure, the fuel tank is the part between the trucks under the shell?

Yes and you will need to spread the shell apart, just enough for the shell to pop off. Same for back on. Use your fingernails to hook the shell and pull out. Handrails are plastic, so be careful of those.

Ok. I have short fingernails. XD

Also, is the wiring in this loco pretty much the same as the newer BNSF one in the Rail Chief set?

The Bush Hog is a 5 ft and the tractor handles it very well. Don't run it over 2500 rpm's and PTO in second only. Otherwise it will force grease out of the hog's gear box. Ask me how I know this. Lol

John White Do you have a box blade for it? If so what size and how well does it pull it when loaded with dirt or rocks/gravel? I’m thinking of buying either a YM2310 or a YM2610.

Not sure what you are referring to a box blade, but I do have a blade for the rear of it and thus far it seems to work ok, as I haven't used it to much. But if you are looking for pulling power I'll give you an example. I was cutting down a tree and it hung in another tree. So I hooked a rope to the Yanmar and thought I would just pull it out and it would drop. Yeh, right. Anyway when I tried to pull it out, all I managed to do was bury it to the axle. after unhooking from the rope it pulled itself right out of the hole it had dug. I've used this tractor for a lot of different choirs and it has preformed very well. Wich I would have had this thing several years ago. It also has a rear boom that I have used to lift cars bodies of the frames. Just make sure you have counter weights on the front for any thing heavy on the back including the Bush Hog. Hope this helps.

John White Thanks. I’m talking about a grader box/box blade. They have teeth/scarifiers and the “box” is used to drag dirt and rocks or other material and level ground or grade and smooth out an area.

Ok, got ya covered. All I can say is I only found one thing I couldn't pull and that was the tree. It's geared pretty low if you want it, so I would say you would be good. But I've never had a grader box to deal with. I've pulled logs with it and many other things as well. Still your decision.