I'm not particularly happy with this video. Here are 2 much better videos on the topic: - ua-cam.com/video/YESvZYYFSLE/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Southpaw%27sStudio - ua-cam.com/video/qg0ilDwty4Q/v-deo.html
Can I ask, your pic when I seen the video still is semi clear gloss but on the video the tin says clear gloss...is there a difference. I've bought the semi clear gloss, will it work for sublimation please .thank you
Thank you for sharing, the mistakes on camera only let me know that your not afraid to try even if you fail and try again until you succeed!!! Your just the type of person I would love to learn from and thank you for posting this tutorial🙂
I'm not sure if you mentioned it but you have to let the polyacylic completely dry before subbing. I usually leave over night to cure then sublimate. Don't pull the paper. Put water like you did and rub off. Pulling the paper will pull the polyacylic up. Then reapply the polyacylic to brighten the pic up :)
So glad to see this video. I just bought 4x4 and 3x6 tiles to decorate for gifts. I trust that you got the timing worked out and was able to complete the job. I will look at more of your videos and do some testing on my own. Thank you!
I love this Water Based Polyurethane ... I "Flip" RVs (on my 25th one right now) and I have used this Brand of Poly on the Floor... Countertops... Inside the Shower (after painting it with Walmart Exterior House Paint) ... I have put Glitter in it... Iridescent Powders Love this Polyurethane... Thank you so much for sharing this great video.
I will try with the tile 2 coats of polycrylic and bake it after is dry for about 8 to 10 minutes before applying pictures. Thank you for sharing, is a clever approach
A few years back I tried this same process. Letting your coated substrate “cure” is the key. And 8min is way too long. I even tried baking my boards in the oven to speed up the curing process up. I’ve researched resins and coatings for food grade purposes (for my husbands sake, not my own as I like using natural products) and they say it takes up to 30 days for it to cure. When it hardens up nicely you will lose your tacky problem. And you will get that exciting peel away reveal you long for 🤗.
Thank you for making this video. Now, I have an idea of what to expect. I love it when you said, "A black and white photo on this would be NUTS!" LOL Awesome video. Thank you!
I appreciate it! The 2nd version of this is quite a bit better. The editing and flow are better and there are more ideas. The time I spent on the 2nd video compared to this one is NUTS! LOL!.
I think it looks fantastic if you are going for a vintage look. I've used lamimating sheets on wood and had success. I wonder if that would work on tile
@@sonyahausermann5478 oh ok I'm familiar with resin. I'm assuming it was the clear Amazing clear cast resin? Thank you so much for responding. I appreciate it
@@SouthpawsStudio I’m trying to find a suitable material instead the commercial ones, Because they are super expensive I’ve searched about coating material that I could use for them, even glue mixed with water in order to make it softer
I tried Minwax spray Polycrylic for my first dyesub attempt. A-sub paper, 400 degrees 2 minutes, Lowes 4.25 x 4.25 tiles. The poly melted into the paper and was impossible to remove completely. The areas where I did get if off, the image was light and had a nasty texture. Does brush on behave differently? What temp?
Sir instead of using this formulation you should try automobiles top coats clear PU coatings. Rust oleum can be handy. It's a scratch proof, can be buffed and good for sublimation too.
Yes sir. PU clear coat for Automobiles top coat is ideal for sublimation. Since it has a isocyanate grouo that enhances it's strength and makes it scratch resistant to some extent . This additive is vital component for top coats.
The video is great and it was exactly what I was looking for. I adjusted the temperature and the time but my paper still keeps sticking to the tile. Any idea how to prevent this? Thank you so much.
Since sanding is a very important part I think also that it´s part of the problem here. But besides that it also looks as if the tile is vaulted. The peeling didn´t happen in the middle where the press was able to apply pressure well. I would say: try a heatpress pillow or mat. But that wouldn´t make it easier, since you would have to compensate the curvature on the top side. So either you need a very thin elastic layer on top (I once heard about such very thin silicone mats) or you try it the other way round to lay the tile onto the transfer which lies on a pillow. In both cases the heat-loss is a problem. With the thin mat just a few degrees which can be compensated by adding a few seconds of time instead of additional heat. With turning around the tile however you definitely would have to pre-heat and also expand the time and heat, probably. Those are just some spontaneous ideas for probable workarounds. Eventually I would check if the tiles are really as flat as possible, if they aren´t then I would use different ones. The wood looks great. I am surprised as well by this good result. I appreciate that you uploaded this video. It is interesting to see how this played out. Regarding the application of the polycrylic I would recommend a foam roller instead of a brush. But that isn´t strictly neccessary; esp. not for first tests.
Thanks! I'll be trying it again very soon, hopefully with better results due to better prep. At first, I wasn't sure just how well polycrylic would accept the ink.
You have to bake the ceramic tile with Polycrylic in the oven Temp 300 degrees?? depending on your oven mine is a small one from K-marts for about 20-30 minutes?? I place mine in a baking dish then place a cover on-top of dish, depending on how much polycrylic you put on your tile it could cook a yellowish colour I check mine at intervals so as to not over cook it you’ll get the hang of it once you try, it’s trial and error till you sort out your own way of doing it.
Thank you for sharing , regardless of coating when you need to print a tile put paper under tile , not on top , also you need a silicon cover preheated , also need craft paper under silicon pad to suck water coming out of tile , also time not less that 2 minuets . good luck
Omg I panicked when you said 8 minutes at 380 LOL my press starts smoking after 30 seconds.... im not surprised it didn't work well but I like this type of video, trial and error.
@@SouthpawsStudio nothing wrong with that everyone starts somewhere. I just started sublimating which is why I'm here looking at videos! I love the idea of using polycrylic on things to make them able to sub onto! Especially the wood. I have tons of polycrylic laying around, now I have ideas 😆❤
@@mizzysparrots4874 One of my latest videos deals with printing on wood. It's a complete guide that shows 3 different ways to do it.. It's infinitely better than this video.
I purchased unglazed ceramic coaster blanks from Amazon. I read the reviews today and found out I can’t sub on them. Can I use this method to sublimate them?
Hey, you win some, you lose some. It’s trial and error. Thanks for sharing, even when the tile didn’t turn out perfectly. Love the wood coaster! I assume you covered the wood with Polycrylic like you did the tile. I’ve been wanting to try to use Polycrylic to make my own substrates. I appreciate you sharing. I’ll be looking for the next tile video.
Yes, correct. I just sanded and covered the wood coaster with polycrylic. Since it's more porous, the coating stuck MUCH better and didn't peel like the tile.
Can you use this on tumblers? Because no matter what I do my tumblers are not bright. I tape tight, use bright sub paper, printer settings are set right per other users. I’m lost at what I need to do, I thought maybe this might work.
No, sublimation means that a solid becomes a gas, so the heat source needs to be pressed tightly to the surface that will essentially be taking in the gas and making it a solid part of itself after cooling, that's what the poly does
I loved this video ! I have a question... I got a bunch of mugs thinking they were for sublimation and apparently they are not... can I add some Polycrylic on the area where I’ll add the design (away from the drinking area) and then add the sublimation design? Thank you !!
It always smells burnt and toxic and nasty when I press anything for more than a couple minutes.like when I do glass, thick acrylic, tile, slate, or wood.
I'm not particularly happy with this video. Here are 2 much better videos on the topic:
- ua-cam.com/video/YESvZYYFSLE/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Southpaw%27sStudio
- ua-cam.com/video/qg0ilDwty4Q/v-deo.html
Can I ask, your pic when I seen the video still is semi clear gloss but on the video the tin says clear gloss...is there a difference. I've bought the semi clear gloss, will it work for sublimation please .thank you
Thank you for sharing, the mistakes on camera only let me know that your not afraid to try even if you fail and try again until you succeed!!! Your just the type of person I would love to learn from and thank you for posting this tutorial🙂
Thanks, I really appreciate it. To be honest, I almost didn't post the video at all, since it was kind of a failure. I'm really glad I did though.
I liked that part too. In our digital world everything is so overwrought; Its nice to see someone being genuine.
I'm not sure if you mentioned it but you have to let the polyacylic completely dry before subbing. I usually leave over night to cure then sublimate. Don't pull the paper. Put water like you did and rub off. Pulling the paper will pull the polyacylic up. Then reapply the polyacylic to brighten the pic up :)
Yep, I'll be trying a few different things. Thanks for the tips!
Excellent tip for a newbie like me! This would make a fabulous, popular video... hint hint!! ;)
@@tabithas7017 I'll actually be working on V2 tomorrow. Not sure if I'll get all of the editing done, but we'll see.
@@SouthpawsStudio excellent, I can’t wait to see. First project I selected were tiles.. and I’m not finding success... yet!
Kristina Stewart do you have a sub channel on UA-cam? I am curious w/ all things sublimation. Wanting to learn as much as I can.
Thank you for being so humble and sharing your mistakes. I absolutely love your videos
Glad you like the video!
So glad to see this video. I just bought 4x4 and 3x6 tiles to decorate for gifts. I trust that you got the timing worked out and was able to complete the job. I will look at more of your videos and do some testing on my own. Thank you!
Lovely to watch your video with out the music easy to follow thankyou
I love this Water Based Polyurethane ...
I "Flip" RVs (on my 25th one right now) and I have used this Brand of Poly
on the Floor... Countertops... Inside the Shower (after painting it with
Walmart Exterior House Paint) ... I have put Glitter in it... Iridescent Powders
Love this Polyurethane...
Thank you so much for sharing this great video.
Do you have videos on flipping the rv"s. We have a pup up I wanna do some flipping on. Just simple stuff like painting maybe a few more things
@@nancyward2745
I'm sorry ... I don't...
I will try with the tile 2 coats of polycrylic and bake it after is dry for about 8 to 10 minutes before applying pictures. Thank you for sharing, is a clever approach
Did you try that, and did the baking first work?
I love the attitude.. Thinking outside the box.. Great Job man
I appreciate it!
A few years back I tried this same process. Letting your coated substrate “cure” is the key. And 8min is way too long. I even tried baking my boards in the oven to speed up the curing process up.
I’ve researched resins and coatings for food grade purposes (for my husbands sake, not my own as I like using natural products) and they say it takes up to 30 days for it to cure. When it hardens up nicely you will lose your tacky problem. And you will get that exciting peel away reveal you long for 🤗.
Hello , nice help full tips 💡 , thank you... R u available in whatsApp Or Facebook? Please share your link
Thank you for making this video. Now, I have an idea of what to expect. I love it when you said, "A black and white photo on this would be NUTS!" LOL Awesome video. Thank you!
I appreciate it! The 2nd version of this is quite a bit better. The editing and flow are better and there are more ideas. The time I spent on the 2nd video compared to this one is NUTS! LOL!.
Super cute wood tile!
I think so too!
I think it looks fantastic if you are going for a vintage look.
I've used lamimating sheets on wood and had success. I wonder if that would work on tile
Yes, it definitely will!
I did Christmas tiles I used resin though let it cure heat pressed it @ 340 degrees for 3 minutes they came out beautifully
What type of resin did you use?
@@jennrodriguez416 I get it from hobby lobby Its in a blue box and it says amazing resin. if I could post a picture here I would
@@sonyahausermann5478 oh ok I'm familiar with resin. I'm assuming it was the clear Amazing clear cast resin? Thank you so much for responding. I appreciate it
@@jennrodriguez416 yes that's the one
may I use for sublimate on cotton fabric?
I wouldn't recommend it. I would use EasySubli/Subli-Mate Fabric/HTV Glitter or Flock material.
@@SouthpawsStudio I’m trying to find a suitable material instead the commercial ones, Because they are super expensive I’ve searched about coating material that I could use for them, even glue mixed with water in order to make it softer
can be use for metal sheet?
I love the wood sublimation.
could you put this on the outside of a tumbler that isnt already coated for sublimation? or would that not be safe for drinking?
I tried Minwax spray Polycrylic for my first dyesub attempt. A-sub paper, 400 degrees 2 minutes, Lowes 4.25 x 4.25 tiles. The poly melted into the paper and was impossible to remove completely. The areas where I did get if off, the image was light and had a nasty texture.
Does brush on behave differently? What temp?
Sir instead of using this formulation you should try automobiles top coats clear PU coatings. Rust oleum can be handy. It's a scratch proof, can be buffed and good for sublimation too.
Rustoleum clear coat?
Yes sir. PU clear coat for Automobiles top coat is ideal for sublimation. Since it has a isocyanate grouo that enhances it's strength and makes it scratch resistant to some extent . This additive is vital component for top coats.
The video is great and it was exactly what I was looking for. I adjusted the temperature and the time but my paper still keeps sticking to the tile. Any idea how to prevent this? Thank you so much.
It will always be sticky just take a damp sponge and rub off paper don’t pull off or it can pull up the polycrilic layer
Since sanding is a very important part I think also that it´s part of the problem here. But besides that it also looks as if the tile is vaulted. The peeling didn´t happen in the middle where the press was able to apply pressure well.
I would say: try a heatpress pillow or mat. But that wouldn´t make it easier, since you would have to compensate the curvature on the top side. So either you need a very thin elastic layer on top (I once heard about such very thin silicone mats) or you try it the other way round to lay the tile onto the transfer which lies on a pillow. In both cases the heat-loss is a problem. With the thin mat just a few degrees which can be compensated by adding a few seconds of time instead of additional heat. With turning around the tile however you definitely would have to pre-heat and also expand the time and heat, probably.
Those are just some spontaneous ideas for probable workarounds. Eventually I would check if the tiles are really as flat as possible, if they aren´t then I would use different ones.
The wood looks great. I am surprised as well by this good result.
I appreciate that you uploaded this video. It is interesting to see how this played out.
Regarding the application of the polycrylic I would recommend a foam roller instead of a brush. But that isn´t strictly neccessary; esp. not for first tests.
Thanks! I'll be trying it again very soon, hopefully with better results due to better prep. At first, I wasn't sure just how well polycrylic would accept the ink.
You have to bake the ceramic tile with Polycrylic in the oven Temp 300 degrees?? depending on your oven mine is a small one from K-marts for about 20-30 minutes?? I place mine in a baking dish then place a cover on-top of dish, depending on how much polycrylic you put on your tile it could cook a yellowish colour I check mine at intervals so as to not over cook it you’ll get the hang of it once you try, it’s trial and error till you sort out your own way of doing it.
Thank you! Keep us up to date!
You bet!
Thank you for sharing , regardless of coating when you need to print a tile put paper under tile , not on top , also you need a silicon cover preheated , also need craft paper under silicon pad to suck water coming out of tile , also time not less that 2 minuets . good luck
Where did you purchase heat press
It's a Tusy 15x15 - amzn.to/3xolnAw
I love that you show your mistakes.. the wood piece turned out great. Nice job. What a cutie pie on that tractor🥰 new subscriber👋👋
Thanks, that's my nephew. He just turned one.
Would this tecnique work on concrete coasters?
Does it help if you put several coats on?
Looks like in the beginning, when you were checking the press pressure, some of the poly coating came off with it on the butcher paper.
An you use this on a mug and still wash it?
Can you you procrylic clear mattee
Thanks for sharing. Can I use the spray on polycrylic?
Thank you for sharing this. Helpful insight ♡
You are so welcome
Is there a certain setting for printing? And do you use photoshop or what? I am having trouble other than when I use cricut design space.
Could you laminate the tile first and then press your image?
Can this product be used on a dollar tree mug?
I absolutely wouldn't recommend it.
Omg I panicked when you said 8 minutes at 380 LOL my press starts smoking after 30 seconds.... im not surprised it didn't work well but I like this type of video, trial and error.
yea, this one has been a LONG time ago. I've changed the way I do things quite a bit.
@@SouthpawsStudio nothing wrong with that everyone starts somewhere. I just started sublimating which is why I'm here looking at videos! I love the idea of using polycrylic on things to make them able to sub onto! Especially the wood. I have tons of polycrylic laying around, now I have ideas 😆❤
@@mizzysparrots4874 One of my latest videos deals with printing on wood. It's a complete guide that shows 3 different ways to do it.. It's infinitely better than this video.
I have the poly spray. Can I use that?
Should work fine, as far as I know
I sublimate for 240 seconds and it comes out beautiful
At 380 degrees or?
The printer you are using. Is that a injet printer? Do we need a sublimation printer to get these results ?
A converted dye sublimation printer is what I use.
Did u have any Polly on the wood one????
Yes, it had 2 thin coats. I just put out a new, better video this week that's a follow up.
Could you use the spray instead?
Yes, and it would probably be easier.
I use 385 at 6 minutes covering it only with parchment paper - no copy paper. Parchment doesn’t stick to the substrate.
Hey, Nice tip!!!, but what about adding a 6° method, same as polycrilic but printing the image on a transparent film foil... and then no dot remove th
I paint the poly on and let it dry for 8 hours. Then I bake in my sublimation oven 45 mins at 300 Subs and peels perfect every time!
Denise I did the very same thing . So far I haven't found the sweet spot. It's blotchy. Can you tell me what temp. And time you use
@@debragould8774 400 for 8 mins
thanks, I'll try this next time
Will this work with infusible ink?
Yes, it will.
Awesome!! Subscribed. Cant wait for updates!
I purchased unglazed ceramic coaster blanks from Amazon. I read the reviews today and found out I can’t sub on them. Can I use this method to sublimate them?
I would probably use laminate.
60 seconds is all you need for polycrylic. Tiles are typically done upside down... That's why they need longer times.
Hey, you win some, you lose some. It’s trial and error. Thanks for sharing, even when the tile didn’t turn out perfectly. Love the wood coaster! I assume you covered the wood with Polycrylic like you did the tile. I’ve been wanting to try to use Polycrylic to make my own substrates. I appreciate you sharing. I’ll be looking for the next tile video.
Yes, correct. I just sanded and covered the wood coaster with polycrylic. Since it's more porous, the coating stuck MUCH better and didn't peel like the tile.
I agree. I LOVE to see when things don't work it is a huge help.
@@kristintaulbee2752 I almost didn't post the video, but the concept works, it's just a matter of keeping the coating in place on the tiles.
@@SouthpawsStudio did you figure out how to make the tile work? If so, did you make another video or do you have tips you could share?
Wiping it off doesn't take the poly off? It is waterbased right?
No, the water is just a medium to get the coating down. Once it cures, it's fine.
Can you use this on tumblers? Because no matter what I do my tumblers are not bright. I tape tight, use bright sub paper, printer settings are set right per other users. I’m lost at what I need to do, I thought maybe this might work.
It could be your printer color setting. I had to change my color (increased magenta) to get a over all better color.
can you use a cricut easy press?
Have to cure in oven before sublimacion
How long and what temp?
Veronica have you done this before ?
If you use regular paper it may work better. The A SUB has something Tacky gloss when heated.
Can you use this with mugs
Could you use a. Oven instead of heatpress?
No, sublimation means that a solid becomes a gas, so the heat source needs to be pressed tightly to the surface that will essentially be taking in the gas and making it a solid part of itself after cooling, that's what the poly does
Is clear matte ok to use instead of the satin?
Is polycryclic toxic? Does it have an odor?
I wouldn't use it on clothing or drinkware. For decor, I believe it's fine.
Can I do it with my cricut heat press machine?
Would the spray polycrylic work better? Just curious.
Haven't tried it, it very well may work better.
You touched the bare plate to the tile and it removed some coating. Also the first white paper u put on removed some.
Hi, great video.
Question?
What paper did you use. Sublimation or regular paper.
Thank you
Nice!
Clean the tile first with denatured alcohol or acetone
Thanks, will try!
I think the water would be better in a spray bottle, great work
I actually wised up and did that in the follow up video..
would you use this or the laminate sheets for sublimating to flat glass pane?
This coating will have a rough time sticking to glass. I would try laminate or vinyl.
Thanks for sharing!
Just curious would it be better to use a Teflon sheet instead of paper
I‘be never tried Teflon sheets
Did you say you pressed it for 8 minutes?? If so, that's what the issue was. Most items don't need to be pressed for more than 2 minutes
What kid of print did you use. Subliminal or regular printer
Epson WF-7720 converted for dye sub
Good try! Keep it up; however what about 100- 120 seconds or @ 380 to avoid burning
Try 300 and 20 sec with Teflon as your paper
I loved this video ! I have a question... I got a bunch of mugs thinking they were for sublimation and apparently they are not... can I add some
Polycrylic on the area where I’ll add the design (away from the drinking area) and then add the sublimation design?
Thank you !!
I would just get sublimation mugs. In theory, it would work, assuming you can get the poly to stick..
Just shows us newbies that anyone can make mistakes
It happens, sublimation is rarely a perfect thing..
Thank you for sharing this 👌🏿
I noticed under "Products used", you don't have the sub paper used. Or did you use regular printer paper?
Thanks.
I just did this with glass cutting board...some of My paper stuck. But not to bad for first sub
You can use a little water to get it off
It always smells burnt and toxic and nasty when I press anything for more than a couple minutes.like when I do glass, thick acrylic, tile, slate, or wood.
Hi! Did you put poly on the wood piece as well?
Yes, I coated it before I decided to do a video.
I was told you could put in water and scrup paper off of tile.
Let the polyurethane completely dry before sublimation
Have you ever used this on a canvas?
Yes, works great. That will actually be part of my next video..
don't use the minwax neat dilute it with water or it goes on too thick
Lmao it sounds like you say towel when you say tile lol. I thought you were making a video about towels and wood before I read the title
I'm southern, sometimes the accent is a bit much..
8 minutes!! No wonder you smell burning. Who taught you that!
Let cure 36 hours then bake for 15 minutes and press for 2 minutes in incriments
380° at 170 seconds should have been enough.
@Keys Banyan
That’s the settings I use as my base setting. Adding plus or minus as needed. Been doing that for quite a while.
I'll try that in my next video.
U need sabd it befire poly
Nice try. Don't give up on doing this kind of project.
8min?? 😮😮😂😂
Less time... 8 minutes is way too long
8 minutes is wayyy too long. 😂
Thank you for sharing!