Olympus OM-1 with the Olympus 75-300mm Lens Performance & More Birding Tips and Best Settings ep.443
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- Опубліковано 9 кві 2023
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Olympus 75-300mm
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The fast run through of the edits is a lovely addition. It's especially interesting to see how you re-frame stuff (like the shot of the two birds in silhouette)
Thanks!
Great video! Loved watching your post processing workflow!
Glad you enjoyed it!
legit work. Love the montage. Good editing decisions. Love you showing the process and how you make the decisions.
Appreciate it!
GREAT tips as usual. Thanks Rob!
Thanks!
Fantastic! Thank you very much for such an enjoyable video
Thanks!
Perfektes Video, ich habe eine fast neue Olympus 75-300 II mit Gegenlichtblende aus Deutschland gekauft. Ich habe es angezogen und wollte es am nächsten Tag wieder ausziehen. Dies geschah nicht zufällig, sondern erst, nachdem man es vom Gehäuse der Kamera entfernt und stark vom Zoomobjektiv gedreht hatte, um seinen Mechanismus nicht durch Gewalt zu beschädigen. Beim Ausmessen habe ich einen 0,3 mm kleineren Durchmesser an der Blende gemessen, außerdem sind die 3 Bajonettprofile 0,1 mm breiter. Es half
sorgfältiges Schleifen sowohl radial als auch axial. Jetzt kann ich es bis zum Objektiv schieben und klicken.
Die Blende ist nur mit LH-61E gekennzeichnet, nicht wie beim Original von Olympus oder Pixco.
Ein günstiger Kauf kann daher ziemlich teuer werden.
I was just about to message you for advice on this exact topic of course you already have an in depth video 😁 wealth of knowledge on this channel
Awesome! Thank you!
Rob... Just dropped you a donation via paypal. There was no place to comment so I'll just say here what a treasure your video tutorials have been to someone transitioning from a Panasonic FX1000 to the much more modern OM-1. ... Charles D.
Thank you!
Nice editing Rob 👌Ty for sharing your findings! planning on finally upgrading my Em-5 II to an EM-1 Body, looking forward to your vids! 👍
Thanks. You'll see a nice boost in AF with the EM-1 II and III.
Great shots Rob, thanks for all your hard work. You’re editing is also getting real good.
Thanks, Randy. I try. Good to hear from you. Did you get the OM-1?
@@RobTrek yes Rob I have it. Did some birding with some success but nothing like your hit percent. I’ve use both the 100-400 Olympus and 75-300.
I wish I was motivated to do more.
Another keeper Rob! I have the 75-300 also. Even though I also have the 300, f/4 I still use the 75-300 when I travel as it is so light and much smaller, though I almost always use it at the 300mm end.
Thanks. I'm the same. I take the 75-300mm out for casual shooting and travel light. But the 300mm is my go to lens when I want to get serious.
Thanks!
Thank you, Ian!
Thanks Rob for all the helpful information. I ordered the 75-300mm to pair it with the OM-1
Thanks. I'm sure you'll love the combo. So compact!
@@RobTrek Sure looks like a winning combo. I will report back once I receive it. Got it off eBay new for $330.
I always keep IS on especially with long lenses as it helps steady the camera to locate my subject and keep them in frame prior to taking the shot…..nice video, thanks..❤
Thank you!
It's great to see this video Rob. Every time I use this lens I wonder if the 300mm F4 PRO would be a better choice. I think the true reality is that this budget conscious lens suits my needs extremely well. More often than not, the focus drop off at the edges isn't really much of an issue because my subjects are usually residing in the sharpest area of the lens. In terms of dollar cost, like most Olympus lenses, it shoots way above its pay grade. Of course the extra speed of the 300mm F4 PRO lens would be nice in some situations. Especially when shooting deer in the woods in example, the light is often quite challenging, but I've still managed to get some good results. I'm using an E-M1 Mark III and I can say that my hit rate on most of my subjects has been reasonably good. It was good to learn that even the big gun cameras struggle with foreground branches on birds.
The 75-300 is really my go to lens for telephoto. Still, having the 300mm is nice time to time.
Crazy editing skills! I'm still shooting with the Mark III. Do love that tracking feature.
Thanks!
Rob, excellent video! I’ve recently moved to Florida and the opportunities for wildlife pictures are endless. I have been seriously considering switching systems to something more action-friendly and the OM-1 is now in my short list. Seems like with the help of de-noise software the days of having to lug around full-frame gear are over. Very tempting!
Thanks. Yes, Florida is awesome for wildlife! The OM-1 is certainly the most compact system and denoising software is definitely now part of the equation.
As usual, Rob excellent video. Am sure all the BIG and sports shooters would have found it very useful. As I tend to shoot wider, of less relevance to me and shall rely on my plastic fantastic.
Thanks, Robert!
I have the 75-300, in good light it's an amazing lens, so much lighter than my 100-400 Panasonic lens. Thanks as always Rob
Thank you!
Thank you. I'll try it without image stabilization. SH2 with 25 frames is also my favourite, but I fully agree you have to watch out, not to get so much images you have to look through afterwards. I've noticed in your "montage" that you take pictures very selective. I have to work on that too.
75 to 300 is a great lens, specially when you just want to take small equipment. What kind of lens-hood do you use? It looks very small in size which is great.
Thanks. I'm trying to keep my image count down. I might miss a few "money" shots, but life is too short. I just use a generic metal screw in lens hood. I have a longer one that I use sometimes for even better flare protection.
Cracking video Rob: thanks a lot. I am thinking of purchasing a used copy of this lens for the days I am shooting macro. At the moment I carry one OM1 with my 300mm f4 (+/- MC14 or MC20) and my 90mm f3.5 on my other OM1. The 300mm is for butterflies, dragonflies and damselflies, but it does become a little uncomfortable when I am kneeling down or stooping over using my 90mm. It also feels a little heavy after about 5 hours of walking slowly. I think this lens could be the answer. Obviously I can't attach either MC, but that is mitigated by the lens being lightweight and compact.
Yes. Sometimes I don't feel like bringing the 300mm f/4. This is a great alternative to just have some fun and/or get some practice.
Hi Rob....I have been watching many of your videos and this in my opinion is your best. My birding at 82yrs of age are on my feeder out the open kitchen window and I am really enjoying it. Of course I have set up landing spots...branches etc....and my pics have been very pleasing to me. What was the editing software you used in the video. I have been away from nature and wildlife photography for quite a few years and need to be introduced to some of the latest editing software. I have installed OM workspace but have yet to be able to get a lot of results. Keep up your great work. MFT has captured my interest and your videos are entertaining and helpful to me and I'm sure many others.
Joe McGrath
Thank you! I use Photolab 6 Elite. I'm working on a new video where I edit bird photos.
Thank you Rob for showing how to do birding with an inexpensive lens. It weighs only 423g!
Happy to share!
Rob , how do you set all target points in position one and one point in position two? Sorry for the question but I couldn’t find the way to do it. Thanks Gerard
Hi, Gerard. I answered your question here: ua-cam.com/video/yeBes3raXlE/v-deo.html
Love the tips and the editing montage! Just getting started with birding myself with the EM5.3 and the 75-300 - much more challenging than I expected, but a lot of great tips here that I think will mostly apply to the EM5.3 also!
Curious how you are capturing the video of your OM1 screen so clearly while also taking the shots?
He's using an external recorder. You can see it at 0:22.
Thanks. I use a Suikui HDMI recorder. You can see it attached to my camera in the beginning of this video and I talked about it more in my last video for BIF best settings.
@@Biosynchro oh wild, thanks - didnt know what that was!
@@RobTrek I will watch that one next - thanks again :)
Hello, thesecond part was awesome! Maybe the whole thing again so that you can understand it.👍
Ok thanks!
Nice video and great images, convinced me to get this lens to start my wildlife adventures, what editing software are you using please?
Thanks. I'm using DxO Photolab 7. You can try it via my affiliate link here: robtrek.com/dxo
Rob, I should have added “when using the 12-45 f4 pro”. Thanks for your support to us amateurs.
I think IBIS will help up to 1/1000. I know we've all seen people handhold several seconds with the Olympus IBIS. But it's generally best practice to shoot 4x the focal length. So 12mm would need at least 1/60, 45mm = 1/200th. This is double the "reciprocal rule at 2x focal length". I suggest this because our m4/3 sensors have a very high pixel density. If you have very shaky hands, double it again until you get tack sharp images. Practice a bit with IBIS OFF and see what you can do. Then make that your base line. Turn IBIS back on and you should be good.
Rob, many thanks for your detailed and quick answer to my question, which is just what I needed. You remain the best source of unbiased help for anything related to MFT cameras.
Hi Rob. Thank you for your video. What sd card are you using? Mine v90 card doesn't clear buffer as fast as you do.
I use the ProGrade v90 cards. I did a video about sd cards here: ua-cam.com/video/YTu1tl7n5HY/v-deo.html
Thanks for this video it was quite helpful. As was the earlier one comparing telephoto lens. I understand that the IQ of lens gets incrementally better as the price rises exponentially. This creates a quandery for me. I use an Olympus M1 Mark iii and a Zuiko 75-300ii lens. I am a relative novice but my interest is moving to birds in flight. I have been photographing various eagles, bee-eaters and various forms of swallows. My keeper rate isn't great at this stage. I would like to upgrade on a limited budget. The 300 f-4 is way out of my budget but if given a choice is it better to upgrade my camera to an OM-1 for bird tracking OR a 100 -400 lens for slightly better IQ and greater reach? (i'm in Australia)
I'd go for the OM-1. The bird tracking will give you a much higher keeper rate. That said, you should work on your keeper rate with your existing set up. Once you're confident you've reached your limit, that's when a switch would make more sense. Bird photography still requires a distinct skillset that a camera can help with, but ultimately it comes back to you. There is nothing stopping you from getting great images with what you have.
Nice editing. Looks so smooth. Need to change from luminar AI to Lightroom. Maybe i can still get more out of my pics but im always so lazy...
Download a trial and see if it works well for you. robtrek.com/dxo
Great video especially the montage. I'm not up with editing yet. I wondered what your workflow is and the software your using? It really brought the best out of your images with the 75-300 lens.
Thanks for the tips and sharing though I have neither OM-1 camera nor the 75-300mm lens.
There are 3 varieties of Olympus/OM 40-150mm with different max. apertures. I hope OM could also make a premium version of 75-300mm with larger aperture and weather sealed.
Thanks. A 75-300mm f/4? That would be interesting. Seeing how the 40-150mm f/4 is $899 and the 100-400 f/4.5 is $7500, I'd have to guess that a 75-300mm f/4 would at least $3000.
@@RobTrek So I think I will settle on 75-300mm for its light weight and cheap price.
'100-400 f/4.5' ? I guess you are referring to the super expensive 150-400 f/4.5.
Olympus/OM has another super telephoto zoom lens: 100-400mm F5.0-6.3. But based on some reviews I have read, its optical performance is not significantly better than 75-300mm except (i) the sharpness is more even across the entire image and (ii) extra 100mm longer reach.
I have a canon 75 -00-- with an adaptor. not perfect. However images are somewhat haphazard my next purchase will be e MFT one. Thanks Rob .
I'm sure you'll love it!
Hi Rob I subscribed to your channel a few weeks ago and have been watching your tutorials with great delight ,I have sold all my Sony and Fujifilm gear and I will be going for a micro 4/3 system, I am on the verge of purchasing an OM-1 can you tell me Rob is that camera better than the OM-5 and the OM-D EM-1 5 MK iii, as I would like to also bird photography.
Regards ,Alan Winton.
For birding, the AF is way better with bird subject detect. If you're into birding, you won't regret getting the OM1.
I have the 75-300 too. Somehow while I used it with my em10 MK2 on this sunny weekend, I really struggled too get really sharp images of birds slitting perfectly still. I used a fast shutter speed and tried my best to stand still. Autofocus with manual focus correction and focus peeking.
Do I have a "bad" lense? Or is there a way to check if my lense is working properly?
It's possible you have a bad copy of the lens. I'd have to see your images for myself. You're welcome to email a few samples for review. I prefer the raw but jpg is okay. rob at robtrek dot com.
@@RobTrek thank you very much for the offer. I will try some settings first. Maybe I have too high expectations but I got a very pleasant picture once using jpg.
Do the raw files always look a little blurrier than the in camera processed jpg?
Thanks for your interesting videos!
Interesting Lens Hood! JJC?
No, just a generic screw in metal hood.
At 4:41 you mention "my last video" in which you show how to set the AEL lever to toggle between small focus and all points. I watched what I thought was that "last video" and couldn't find where you show how to set this up. Can you help me find this segment? Thanks!
Hi, Ed. You're correct, I didn't really explain it in my last video either. I'll make a new video about how to setup the function lever on the OM-1. For now, all you have to do is make sure the fn lever is in mode 2, then put the lever in position 1. Set the AF target point to ALL. Then put the function lever into position 2, and change the AF target point to Small. Now you can toggle between ALL and Small by flipping the lever between position 1 and 2.
Thanks Rob. Maybe I'll see you one day out at Huntley...haven't been there for a few years. Cheers :-)
Hi Rob, I am a novice photographer using the OMD 10 ii and was wondering if this lens could be used to photo runners at cross country and track events? Also are you able to recommend any videos that may help with photographing this subject matter. Thankyou
I guess it depends on how far away you are from the runners. I think the 40-150mm kit lens is probably more usable focal length. As for settings, you can watch my other bird setting video for the E-M10ii. Those should work for track events. You could probably get away with 1/1000th or lower shutter speeds. ua-cam.com/video/E0hBOO3udIA/v-deo.html
@@RobTrek thank you Rob for your reply. I shall watch your video. I have the 14-150mm lens therefore shall practice with this. Is there much difference between the 14-150 and 40-150mm? Sometimes I feel like getting in a bit closer to the athletics eg shoulder head therefore my question with regards to the 75-300mm, as I am not a pro I am not allowed on the inside of the track. 😊Thankyou for your continual learning videos.
Hi Rob do you have any video for basic editing for photography? You should conduct course?
I do have this video for Photolab 6, but the workflow can be applied to almost any photo editor. ua-cam.com/video/0NBAceIvwFA/v-deo.html I also have a tutorial for editing birds ua-cam.com/video/3Rb1ffvUUI0/v-deo.html
@@RobTrek thanks 🙏 Rob
Nice video.
A question
What would a tcon 17 be like with this lens if it worked?
Thanks. I've not tried this combination so can't say if it works. However, even if it did, the effective aperture would become f/11+. I wouldn't recommend it.
@@RobTrek Thanks for very quick reply..
I've just jumped the gun and bought the Olympus 100/400 and may get the 1.4 TC but not told the Mrs yet, so I'll see if my life expectancy hasn't diminished first .lol
I might trade my 75/300 in or keep it because it's very light
Well guess what....I had Silent Sequential turned off in the main menu so I just answered my own question....sorry to bother you but I am in a steep learning curve with the OM1. I want to love this camera and each day as I discover how to shoot with settings that are my preferences I keep getting closer to the "Love affair".
So many things to look out for, but the payoff is an incredibly flexible camera. I haven't forgotten your question about the SH1 earlier. Will get to it soon. -Rob
Wow...😮
Thanks!
The af points can be fixed with the sensitivity, right?
I started shooting at 1/3200 as standard and sh2. And then just slow down shutter if they are on ground/sticks and such. I have the 100-400mm lens, so should I just try IS of in cam and on lens? Or only in cam?
The consensus on the 100-400mm is to turn Lens IS off and use the in-camera IS, especially at the lower shutter speeds. For video, I found turning both on worked better.
I accidentally turned the lens IS off on my 100-400 and the images were mostly unsharp (1/2000). I subsequently always check that it is on.
@@boboneill1828 That is interesting. I'll share with you the source where I read to turn off lens IS. Unless you can read German, you can use google's auto translate pen-and-tell.de/2023/01/frag-pat-100-400-und-stabi/
@@RobTrek That test is interesting but doesn't reflect how I use the lens. I'm going out looking for birds this morning and I'll try both on and off and let you know.
@@RobTrek Quite an eye opener! Some of my best BIF with lens IS off. Sharp images at both Shutter Priority 1/2000 and P (for professional) down to 1/500. Lens IS seems to make little difference with static fairly close subjects, but at greater distances and in flight my results were much improved over what I have been getting. I suppose it's not surprising since the 75-300 doesn't have IS and produces sharp images at quite low shutter speeds. Incidentally I use single, anti-shock, shutter.
greetings from Turkey omd m5 with the Olympus 75-300mm Lens Performance ?
It should be a little better. Unfortunately, I don't own the OM5, so can't say.
I have the 75-300mm on my OM1. I find that an ISO of 200-400 gives me the sharpest photo. I think higher ISO may require Photoshop which I don’t have,
Absolutely!
I never switch is off, never been a problem
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Also note, SH2 max ISO is 12800
Thanks for the reminder! I mentioned it in my first video but totally forgot in this one.
I keep saving for 75-300 but as soon as I get close and a good deal shows something happens, this time my car needs repair, but one day, one day 🤦🏼♀️
I know how you feel. I was all ready to get a new lens last month. My washing machine finally gave out after 15 years.
@@RobTrek sorry to hear that 😔
If they can make it black-out free at 50FPS, why not at 20?
My guess would be it was intentional. At 20fps, you can see if you're capturing or buffering. At 50fps, it's hard to tell without a blackout. I think Canon or Nikon uses an outline around the frame to blink with captures rather than blackout.
Never turn IBIS off with OM-1 because its much smoother/easier then take photos. Also i think Olympus said that no need to turn IBIS off with high shutter speeds or using tripod.
Thanks. I've been looking for a specific reference to using ibis or not. If you happen to remember where you saw that, let me know.
@@RobTrekRegarding IBIS and tripod: ua-cam.com/video/j8E1u3MGuGQ/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared. Robin Wong if the link is removed by UA-cam. And thank you for all your great videos!
The Olympus 100-400 is very good and the EM1.2 is great. I've had much better success with it than my OM-1.
Skip the OM-1.
Thanks for sharing your experience.