When I ordered a new caliper from a local auto parts store the sales person didn’t know what that rubber sleeve was for. Confused I had to stop at a local garage where the mechanic explained where and what their suppose was. Thanks for the video it was well explained and no music in it was even better. Thanks 👍
I was having a lot of sticky brake issues. Finally, I discovered the rubber on the end of the slide pin had expanded. It was causing all the negative issues. So I just cut the off. No more issues!
that rubber bushing causes more trouble than it's worth. i cut them off before the install. never had clients report rattling issues, but before my cut off policy, lots of complaints of sticking brakes and premature brake wear.
Some brake kits, Powerstop for one, will provide you with new bushings and pin boots. Use them. The bushing is there to help stabilize the caliper body.
I am not an ASE certified technician but I have been doing brakes for over 50 years. I have known which slide pin the rubber sleeve goes on for years. This video is spot on. There may be exceptions but I have never seen one. I just did rear brakes on an 09 Murano. When I removed the slide pins on one side, the rubber sleeve was on the leading side of the caliper...hmmm...that's weird. When I removed the sliding pins on the other side, the rubber sleeve was also on the leading side. I then realized what the previous mechanic had done. He had installed the LR caliper on the RR and vice versa. On that car, the rear calipers are identical when manufactured and there are two locations they can drill then tap for the bleed screw. When installed on the rotor, the bleed screw should be on the upper location. Another thing that seems to be consistent is location of the squealer clip on the brake pad (low pad warning). It is always on the inner pad and always on the leading side of the caliper. Again, there may be exceptions, but I have never seen one.
I am going through this issue now ,purchased a used car and tge front disk have 1" rust ring on tge outer side of the disc and read that tgese pins could be the issue with too much grease, today I finally took them out and there was alot of grease and cleaned them and put a tiny layer of grease back on and now it has improved slightly, it has gone from 1" rust ring to 0.5" rust ring and now back on UA-cam and learnt about this rubber bushing and on my car both the rubber pins were at the leading location but didn't know at the time so I put the rubber pins back the way I took them out ,now my big problem I jave is I have seen this video which suggests it should be put on the trailing location and I have watched another video with similar amount of views and comments and that video is saying the rubber pin should be put on the leading location and not the trailing location 💀 now I don't know who is right and who is wrong as both channels a are respectable.
Thanks for putting my mind at ease and articulating which pin and why. Turns out the previous person who worked on my car got one side wrong. So with your instruction I corrected the issue and my brakes work great!!!
I Asked this question a different technicians "(certified)" and none of them gave me an answer, they didn't know. Some sayed remove the rubber. But the real problem comes when you use a wrong grease. Thanks for your explanation.
Extremely useful information, i feel so bad for messing them up so many times before, might not make a huge difference, but im a stickler for fine detail. Thanks boss!
Very good video -on point correct w/ everything. The wrong grease on slide pin will swell rubber on pin & mess up boots- swelling them. Also w/ harden & prevent pins from sliding. Other grease can go on back of pads to prevent vibration squealing. Had to do lot of research to finally find best way to do it. Lots of bad info out there. Sil-glyde is very good stuff for pins & outer end- edges of pads.
Great breakdown here. Excellent information. I would add, with these bushings being ever more difficult to acquire, if ever you need just the bushing, look around your shop/house. Vacuum hose, and some valve cover bolt grommets work great. Also, ac o-rings.
THANK YOU. This has been a pain for so many years for me. My 2004 F250 front disc brakes have the rubber pin and it was so stuck I had to heat up the bracket to get it out. I need to go back and see how I placed them last. My mechanic said to remove the rubber bushing because he has seen many times were the busing pin is seized up and messes up the braking. I'm too scared to do this because I'm pretty sure the bushing is there for a reason.
This is great! When I took mine off today to check the pads, the pin with the sleeve was seized in place. It wouldn't go in or out by hand. I rotated and pulled with pliers and it slowly came out. I cleaned it up and re-greased it, but it would only go in half way. Upon inspection, it did seem a bit swollen, so I pulled it off temporary and it slid right in. I'm going to check the other side tomorrow...😏
Another point with the lubrication - make sure you grease the groove where the lip of the boot sits, behind the head of the pin. This can help prevent corrosion in this area, which would lead to water penetration.
I can't seem to get the brake pads to wear evenly. Outer pad doesn't wear much and inner pad wears at an angle. I always replace the rubber sleeve, but I think the next time I will just leave the rubber sleeve off. Never had a problem with pads wearing unequal until I encountered the rubber sleeve. Thanks for the explanation.
Thank you. I fix brakes a lot as a DIY for friends and family. I don't get virgin brakes, someone been there before and I like to put the pins in the same spot as I found them, but I always wonder, did the last person out them in the correct hole in the first place?
I grease the rubber bushing on the inside by removing it or prying up on it and slipping some brake grease in the channel. Makes for easy assembly. Never get grease on the tip of pin as it will not go in all the way. This type of pin with internal threads for M14 bolts is ideal as you can slip on the boot and then insert the greased pin. Finally insert the thick end of the rubber boot in the bracket. This ensures all the grease stays in the channel and not in the rubber boot. minor stuff but makes error free servicing.
logically correct. the rubber boot has tiny channels around the diameter of the rubber and holds back a high percentage of the grease as you insert the pin and the grease ends up accumulating in the bellows. A fraction of a percent ends up on the inside where it's supposed to go. Grease the inside a little by rotating the pin with back and forth movements ensuring no hydro locking of the pin , insert the rubber boot, lightly grease the pin again and then insert the brake pin all the way allowing the rubber boot to lock into place and ensuring that the air pressure in the rubber boot has released.
You are the first person that I have seen that uses the RIGHT type of grease for the slide pins. 🎉🎉🎉 every other knuckle head uses caliper grease big NO NO!
One of the most accurate, informative videos among all those that often fall more under personal opinion. For this simple reason. I take the time to connect to my UA-cam account and subscribe to your channel. Keep up the good work and thank you!
For those saying the rubber bushing is swollen and to just remove it, why don't you just pry open your wallet and buy a replacement slider kit. Completely clean out any old grease and use appropriate, non petroleum lube as shown here. Do NOT use caliper lubes (eg. the "purple stuff") in slide pins. Those are meant for lubricating external contact points on calipers and pads for noise reduction. If you apply those to your slides, you WILL end up with sticky/frozen slides.
As I stated in the video description, there are some exceptions to the rule and if you are in any doubt, check with your own vehicle's manufacturer. You should go by the schematics from your own vehicle.
Same with my Lexus IS200 mk 1. Rear mounted caliper, pin with slider bush fits in lower position (lead pin). The hole in the carrier to accept the bushed pin is also larger than the top hole.
Una pregunta, al introducir el pin noto q eliminas el aire, pero en otro vídeos vi que si lo dejan con el aire. Es decir en tu caso generas un efecto succión y en otro casos vi q genera un efecto resorte.. cuál es la forma correcta de montar el pin?
I got confused, cause info at Google says opposite as the rubber (trailing) pin should go to the first contact area, and at the video you selected second contact area for the trailing pin.
a great video with simple but effective communication skills with high level of expert views of a particular part of brake system. Love it and thanks. In case of doubt look for good mechanic (not necessarily a qualified one like doctors).
Please help me ,I purchased a used car and the front brake discs have 1" rust ring on the outer edge of the disc where the brake pads don't make contact . I've read about these pins if there too much grease they can cause uneven wear so today I took the pins out and there was alot of grease in them so I cleaned them out and put a thin layer and installed them back in and now I have slight improvement and the rust ring has gone from 1" to half " ,so now I have been on UA-cam to search further and come across your video and my car has those rubber trailing pins too in my case the rubber pin was at the top and normal pin with no rubber at the bottom, my caliper bracket is on the front of the disc at the front of the car so according to your video my rubber trailer pin should not be at the top like mine has ands should be at the bottom is that correct....? Could this be tge reason why I my pads are not making full contact, My car is only 2 years old with alot of meat left on tge pads approx 13mm and has only ever been serviced by the main dealers so surprised if they have put them in wrong if that's the case.
I just took the rubber out since ut was worn out and wouldnt let me to get the pin back in properly and without rubbet at the end of the pin it works fine? My question is this rubber attached the tip of th pin really must have thing?
I've heard a lot of people saying they removed them without any issues, but they're installed for a reason so I'm not going to recommend removing them and not replacing them :)
Je suis en France et ne maîtrise pas l'anglais mais avec le traducteur j'ai pu pu comprendre votre démonstration enfin presque car je n'arrive pas à assimiler le fait que la colonnette avec la bague caoutchouc soit en bas pour l'avant et en haut pour l'arrière ! en fait à quoi sert la bague en caoutchouc ? Merci encore pour votre vidéo Michel JOSEPH TRAI am in France and do not speak English but with the translator I was able to understand your demonstration almost because I cannot assimilate the fact that the column with the rubber ring is at the bottom for the front and up for the back! actually what is the rubber ring for? Thanks again for your video Michel JOSEPHDUCTION
@@screwsnutsandbolts Thanks for the reply. Im well aware of what slide pins do. What I meant was, what's the purpose of the slide pin with the rubber bushing? The majority of slide pins I've encountered in the last 25 years are "regular" all steel pins with no rubber bushing. Is it to negate some problem? Is it "high performance" lol. Or is it more planned obsolescence? Just amother part that needs more frequent replacement because the rubber ripped, fell apart or wore out.
I would really appreciate if you are able to help with the rear caliper handbrake mechanisim. In regards to adjusting and setting the handbrake built in to the caliper. This i cant find anywhere? A real bug bear! Can it be solved?
Does it matter how long the boots are when you are done? As in your video, it seems like a vacuum pulls the pins in and squishes the boots. If the lip of the boots are lifted, the boots relax and lengthen. Is that needed or a good thing to do?
From what I'm seeing, the rubber helps mitigate vibrations caused by being in the trailing location. Avoid noise? You don't want to grease the tip because that area needs to be free to contract and expand as the pin slides. Filling the end with grease could hydro-lock the pin and prevent it from moving.
A question,when retrofit the pin I noticed that it removes the air, but in other videos I saw that if you leave it with the air, that is, in your case it generates a suction effect and in other cases it generates a spring effect... what is the correct way to mount the pin?
The pins should only move a little bit. If not, there is a problem. Perhaps too much grease beyond the pin (in the end), swapped pins, corrosion, etc.... Just enough movement to allow the pads to touch and release the rotors is proper. The suction you are seeing @4:50 is because the boots are keeping air out. When he pulls, it stretches the boot/creates suction vacuum in space beyond the pin. This simulates pressing down on your brake pedal, which causes the brake cylinder to push on the brake pad & caliper bracket which pulls the pin. When released the brake cylinder retracts and the boot and vacuum pull the pin back into place which helps the brake pad back off from touching the rotor. If I understand this mechanism correctly.
Well I have a 6th gen honda civic and the caliper is mounted to the front of the rotors and yet the manual says the guide pin with the rubber bushing goes on top for both sides ???
Correct. Because the calipers are mounted on the front, the top pin is the trailing pin. This is visualized by the counter clockwise rotation when moving forward. The rotational force is the ‘last pin’ the rotation encounters. Edit: If you visualize rotating the bracket to the rear of the rotor its position in the bracket doesn’t change but becomes the bottom pin. Hope that helps.
Should be required viewing for ant shop class. You covered two of the most common mistakes (pin position and proper greasing) in brake service within 5 minutes.
What if a new set of brake hardware comes with 4 rubber bushings and are used on both top and bottom such as in my 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500hd? Or are all 4 not supposed to have them?
Now I need a video on how to clean out those grungy holes when they are caked with some unknown crap. lol. Brakeclean only goes so far. Need some kind of brush on a drill. Hey that's a good tool to invent.
I use a bore brush made for cleaning firearms. They have brass bristles and come in different diameters. You can find them online, or at a local gun shop, and are inexpensive.
I use a box of Q-tips and use about 4-5 bunched together in the hole and manually spin it. A couple of sets and it gets the majority of it all out. Then i spray a degreaser in there and let it soak for a few minutes and dump it out. Again with Q tips for a few until its pretty clean. Then i usually use a little bit of brake clean or somethibg as a final touch. 5 total mins per caliber (or less). A drill or bore may work but i would suggest getting as much grease out manually first (especially if someone put a ton in there).
1) Rubber grommets are meant to slowly cause brake failure and wear to increase repair costs plausibly. 2) never ever ever use them, rip them out. Any grease other than silicone will make them swell and seize. 3) Terminate with extreme prejudice
Although it's possible, I doubt here is a rubber boot cartel out there trying to grift off of your repair costs. They have a purpose. It may not be as critical as other features but I doubt they are a scam. Clean them, replace them, remove them as you choose. Results may vary. Use what works for you.
When I ordered a new caliper from a local auto parts store the sales person didn’t know what that rubber sleeve was for. Confused I had to stop at a local garage where the mechanic explained where and what their suppose was. Thanks for the video it was well explained and no music in it was even better. Thanks 👍
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Informative and correct information without the distracting background music..good job
Thanks for watching !
I was having a lot of sticky brake issues. Finally, I discovered the rubber on the end of the slide pin had expanded. It was causing all the negative issues. So I just cut the off. No more issues!
Yes, that rubber swells, causes your brakes to bind, removed it, the caliper does move a bit side to side, but no hassles
that rubber bushing causes more trouble than it's worth. i cut them off before the install. never had clients report rattling issues, but before my cut off policy, lots of complaints of sticking brakes and premature brake wear.
@@cocodog85 i too, wondered, what that was for. thanx for the help.
Some brake kits, Powerstop for one, will provide you with new bushings and pin boots. Use them. The bushing is there to help stabilize the caliper body.
Same on my 04 Explorer! Removed it completely and it works fine now!
Very satisfying small 'pop' when the pin fully engages.
I am not an ASE certified technician but I have been doing brakes for over 50 years. I have known which slide pin the rubber sleeve goes on for years. This video is spot on.
There may be exceptions but I have never seen one.
I just did rear brakes on an 09 Murano. When I removed the slide pins on one side, the rubber sleeve was on the leading side of the caliper...hmmm...that's weird.
When I removed the sliding pins on the other side, the rubber sleeve was also on the leading side.
I then realized what the previous mechanic had done. He had installed the LR caliper on the RR and vice versa.
On that car, the rear calipers are identical when manufactured and there are two locations they can drill then tap for the bleed screw.
When installed on the rotor, the bleed screw should be on the upper location.
Another thing that seems to be consistent is location of the squealer clip on the brake pad (low pad warning). It is always on the inner pad and always on the leading side of the caliper. Again, there may be exceptions, but I have never seen one.
I am going through this issue now ,purchased a used car and tge front disk have 1" rust ring on tge outer side of the disc and read that tgese pins could be the issue with too much grease, today I finally took them out and there was alot of grease and cleaned them and put a tiny layer of grease back on and now it has improved slightly, it has gone from 1" rust ring to 0.5" rust ring and now back on UA-cam and learnt about this rubber bushing and on my car both the rubber pins were at the leading location but didn't know at the time so I put the rubber pins back the way I took them out ,now my big problem I jave is I have seen this video which suggests it should be put on the trailing location and I have watched another video with similar amount of views and comments and that video is saying the rubber pin should be put on the leading location and not the trailing location 💀 now I don't know who is right and who is wrong as both channels a are respectable.
Baffled me for years, now solved. Good job.
Thanks for watching !
Thanks for putting my mind at ease and articulating which pin and why. Turns out the previous person who worked on my car got one side wrong. So with your instruction I corrected the issue and my brakes work great!!!
I Asked this question a different technicians "(certified)" and none of them gave me an answer, they didn't know. Some sayed remove the rubber. But the real problem comes when you use a wrong grease. Thanks for your explanation.
Thanks for watching !
Hai ragione io Ho usato grasso sbagliato e pinza bloccata.. Come posso risolvere,? Si può lavare la gomma e mettere grasso giusto?
Well I have learned something new today.Something to look out for with future maintenance.Thank you
Cheers Mark ! :)
Cheers Mark ! :)
Extremely useful information, i feel so bad for messing them up so many times before, might not make a huge difference, but im a stickler for fine detail. Thanks boss!
Months ago I was looking for information about this and I imagined something like this. Thanks for this video, today I understand it even more.
You're very welcome!
Very good video -on point correct w/ everything. The wrong grease on slide pin will swell rubber on pin & mess up boots- swelling them. Also w/ harden & prevent pins from sliding. Other grease can go on back of pads to prevent vibration squealing. Had to do lot of research to finally find best way to do it. Lots of bad info out there. Sil-glyde is very good stuff for pins & outer end- edges of pads.
Great breakdown here. Excellent information. I would add, with these bushings being ever more difficult to acquire, if ever you need just the bushing, look around your shop/house. Vacuum hose, and some valve cover bolt grommets work great. Also, ac o-rings.
THANK YOU. This has been a pain for so many years for me. My 2004 F250 front disc brakes have the rubber pin and it was so stuck I had to heat up the bracket to get it out. I need to go back and see how I placed them last. My mechanic said to remove the rubber bushing because he has seen many times were the busing pin is seized up and messes up the braking. I'm too scared to do this because I'm pretty sure the bushing is there for a reason.
Thank you for this video! I always wondered why the difference in the pins and what position they belong in.
Mines swole with silicone grease, i just removed the elastomer it was seizing the pin. Works fine, no noise
I have done that when they are jamming the pin. No ill effect.
I removed the rubber sleeves too when it became hard to slide, don't think the sleeves does anything anyway tbh.
This is great! When I took mine off today to check the pads, the pin with the sleeve was seized in place. It wouldn't go in or out by hand. I rotated and pulled with pliers and it slowly came out. I cleaned it up and re-greased it, but it would only go in half way. Upon inspection, it did seem a bit swollen, so I pulled it off temporary and it slid right in. I'm going to check the other side tomorrow...😏
Get the purple brake grease at your local advanced autoparts ,it's some awesome stuff
Another point with the lubrication - make sure you grease the groove where the lip of the boot sits, behind the head of the pin. This can help prevent corrosion in this area, which would lead to water penetration.
Thanks sir. I do remove this piece for all of my cars as it causes lots of trouble
For long time a was confused about the right position of the pin with the rubber sleeve. Very well explained in this video. Thanks 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching !
I can't seem to get the brake pads to wear evenly. Outer pad doesn't wear much and inner pad wears at an angle. I always replace the rubber sleeve, but I think the next time I will just leave the rubber sleeve off. Never had a problem with pads wearing unequal until I encountered the rubber sleeve. Thanks for the explanation.
Thanks for watching !
Love these videos, thanks for putting them together.
You're very welcome, thanks for watching !
i needed that alot than i ever knew
Thank you. I fix brakes a lot as a DIY for friends and family. I don't get virgin brakes, someone been there before and I like to put the pins in the same spot as I found them, but I always wonder, did the last person out them in the correct hole in the first place?
never had a problem with any type of grease and never had a problem with whether its at the top or bottom.
I grease the rubber bushing on the inside by removing it or prying up on it and slipping some brake grease in the channel. Makes for easy assembly. Never get grease on the tip of pin as it will not go in all the way. This type of pin with internal threads for M14 bolts is ideal as you can slip on the boot and then insert the greased pin. Finally insert the thick end of the rubber boot in the bracket. This ensures all the grease stays in the channel and not in the rubber boot. minor stuff but makes error free servicing.
logically correct. the rubber boot has tiny channels around the diameter of the rubber and holds back a high percentage of the grease as you insert the pin and the grease ends up accumulating in the bellows. A fraction of a percent ends up on the inside where it's supposed to go. Grease the inside a little by rotating the pin with back and forth movements ensuring no hydro locking of the pin , insert the rubber boot, lightly grease the pin again and then insert the brake pin all the way allowing the rubber boot to lock into place and ensuring that the air pressure in the rubber boot has released.
Their rotational orientation can be really important as well. Make sure to put then back the same way. Mark wrench flats relative to bracket.
Excellent information. Thank you for posting this.
You are the first person that I have seen that uses the RIGHT type of grease for the slide pins. 🎉🎉🎉 every other knuckle head uses caliper grease big NO NO!
One of the most accurate, informative videos among all those that often fall more under personal opinion. For this simple reason. I take the time to connect to my UA-cam account and subscribe to your channel. Keep up the good work and thank you!
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Good video thanks, i will be doing mine in the next few weeks so this has helped.
No problem 👍
For those saying the rubber bushing is swollen and to just remove it, why don't you just pry open your wallet and buy a replacement slider kit. Completely clean out any old grease and use appropriate, non petroleum lube as shown here.
Do NOT use caliper lubes (eg. the "purple stuff") in slide pins. Those are meant for lubricating external contact points on calipers and pads for noise reduction. If you apply those to your slides, you WILL end up with sticky/frozen slides.
Funny, I just sorted mine the other day. New to me vehicle, brake squeal, rubbered pin on top. Strange this came up on my feed
Very good explanation. 👍
Very informative thanks
But what if i got one bevelled and one round…??
Depends on who makes it, they tend to be a different size in diameter
Excellent video 👏
Thank you very much!
In schematics of my Toyota rav4 '07 the rear "trailing pin" is also at lower position as front, not up as you recommend..... Any tips ?
As I stated in the video description, there are some exceptions to the rule and if you are in any doubt, check with your own vehicle's manufacturer. You should go by the schematics from your own vehicle.
@@screwsnutsandbolts 10x mate!
Same with my Lexus IS200 mk 1. Rear mounted caliper, pin with slider bush fits in lower position (lead pin). The hole in the carrier to accept the bushed pin is also larger than the top hole.
Thank you so much .
You're very welcome !
I use CRC SILARAMIC grease. Great video!
Una pregunta, al introducir el pin noto q eliminas el aire, pero en otro vídeos vi que si lo dejan con el aire. Es decir en tu caso generas un efecto succión y en otro casos vi q genera un efecto resorte.. cuál es la forma correcta de montar el pin?
Thank you for making this
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
I got confused, cause info at Google says opposite as the rubber (trailing) pin should go to the first contact area, and at the video you selected second contact area for the trailing pin.
Thank you well presented!
Thanks for watching !
a great video with simple but effective communication skills with high level of expert views of a particular part of brake system. Love it and thanks. In case of doubt look for good mechanic (not necessarily a qualified one like doctors).
Thanks for watching !
Very intresting topic. Thanks.
Thanks for watching !
Excellent vid.!
Thank you !
Please help me ,I purchased a used car and the front brake discs have 1" rust ring on the outer edge of the disc where the brake pads don't make contact . I've read about these pins if there too much grease they can cause uneven wear so today I took the pins out and there was alot of grease in them so I cleaned them out and put a thin layer and installed them back in and now I have slight improvement and the rust ring has gone from 1" to half " ,so now I have been on UA-cam to search further and come across your video and my car has those rubber trailing pins too in my case the rubber pin was at the top and normal pin with no rubber at the bottom, my caliper bracket is on the front of the disc at the front of the car so according to your video my rubber trailer pin should not be at the top like mine has ands should be at the bottom is that correct....? Could this be tge reason why I my pads are not making full contact, My car is only 2 years old with alot of meat left on tge pads approx 13mm and has only ever been serviced by the main dealers so surprised if they have put them in wrong if that's the case.
Top video, thanks...
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Nice work.
Thanks!
Excellent good info
Thanks for watching !
Good to know, thanks.
You're welcome !
Very simple, Sliding back to original location! Hopefully not same gas station mechanic swapped to wrong.
I just took the rubber out since ut was worn out and wouldnt let me to get the pin back in properly and without rubbet at the end of the pin it works fine? My question is this rubber attached the tip of th pin really must have thing?
I've heard a lot of people saying they removed them without any issues, but they're installed for a reason so I'm not going to recommend removing them and not replacing them :)
Hey
I removed the rubber from the pin and because it was inflated, I put suitable orings so the pin moves easily
There’s a chance someone used a lube that wasn’t rubber safe?
Now should listen for any noises/clicks from caliper during braking, either road and car park.
Je suis en France et ne maîtrise pas l'anglais mais avec le traducteur j'ai pu pu comprendre votre démonstration enfin presque car je n'arrive pas à assimiler le fait que la colonnette avec la bague caoutchouc soit en bas pour l'avant et en haut pour l'arrière ! en fait à quoi sert la bague en caoutchouc ?
Merci encore pour votre vidéo
Michel JOSEPH
TRAI am in France and do not speak English but with the translator I was able to understand your demonstration almost because I cannot assimilate the fact that the column with the rubber ring is at the bottom for the front and up for the back! actually what is the rubber ring for?
Thanks again for your video
Michel JOSEPHDUCTION
It stops the brake caliper from rattling.
Great video! What is the purpose of that type of slide pin?
The pins allow the caliper to slide in and out on the mounting bracket which helps the pads to put equal pressure on each side of the brake rotor
@@screwsnutsandbolts
Thanks for the reply. Im well aware of what slide pins do. What I meant was, what's the purpose of the slide pin with the rubber bushing? The majority of slide pins I've encountered in the last 25 years are "regular" all steel pins with no rubber bushing. Is it to negate some problem? Is it "high performance" lol. Or is it more planned obsolescence? Just amother part that needs more frequent replacement because the rubber ripped, fell apart or wore out.
Oh my mistake, I read that wrong. It's supposed to stop the caliper from rattling or 'chattering' when the brakes are applied.
@@screwsnutsandbolts
Thanks. It's always a good day when you learn something new.
Thank you
You're welcome
I would really appreciate if you are able to help with the rear caliper handbrake mechanisim. In regards to adjusting and setting the handbrake built in to the caliper. This i cant find anywhere? A real bug bear! Can it be solved?
get a service manual for your car
Does it matter how long the boots are when you are done?
As in your video, it seems like a vacuum pulls the pins in and squishes the boots.
If the lip of the boots are lifted, the boots relax and lengthen. Is that needed or a good thing to do?
Very good, thanks.
Thanks for watching !
WHY does the rubber have to be on the trailing pin, and WHY not get any grease on the tip?
From what I'm seeing, the rubber helps mitigate vibrations caused by being in the trailing location. Avoid noise? You don't want to grease the tip because that area needs to be free to contract and expand as the pin slides. Filling the end with grease could hydro-lock the pin and prevent it from moving.
You're fantastic 😊
Fantastic explanation that solved an issue for me for years.
Thanks is not enough for you🎉
Thanks for watching !
Если кто не понял, то автор указывает, что спереди направляющие с резиновым уплотнением устанавливаются всегда снизу, а сзади наоборот сверху.
My Toyota service manual shows the pin at the top...?
Some cars recommend different positions. I would go by your manual
You are my most favorite in you tube
Thank you !
Hi could help me
I have VW GOLF 2016
And I am wondering if this also applies to my vehicle
As I have the same sliding pin
Thanks ❤
The correct position is wherever the manufacturer says it goes
A question,when retrofit the pin I noticed that it removes the air, but in other videos I saw that if you leave it with the air, that is, in your case it generates a suction effect and in other cases it generates a spring effect... what is the correct way to mount the pin?
The pins should only move a little bit. If not, there is a problem. Perhaps too much grease beyond the pin (in the end), swapped pins, corrosion, etc.... Just enough movement to allow the pads to touch and release the rotors is proper. The suction you are seeing @4:50 is because the boots are keeping air out. When he pulls, it stretches the boot/creates suction vacuum in space beyond the pin. This simulates pressing down on your brake pedal, which causes the brake cylinder to push on the brake pad & caliper bracket which pulls the pin. When released the brake cylinder retracts and the boot and vacuum pull the pin back into place which helps the brake pad back off from touching the rotor. If I understand this mechanism correctly.
Well I have a 6th gen honda civic and the caliper is mounted to the front of the rotors and yet the manual says the guide pin with the rubber bushing goes on top for both sides ???
Correct. Because the calipers are mounted on the front, the top pin is the trailing pin. This is visualized by the counter clockwise rotation when moving forward. The rotational force is the ‘last pin’ the rotation encounters.
Edit: If you visualize rotating the bracket to the rear of the rotor its position in the bracket doesn’t change but becomes the bottom pin. Hope that helps.
Я очень благодарен тебе такие видео хорошее снимаешь желаю тебе хорошего настроения
Thank you !
Always use a grease witch not degradation rubber. that rubber not be destroy and cover rubber can not be
Should be required viewing for ant shop class. You covered two of the most common mistakes (pin position and proper greasing) in brake service within 5 minutes.
What if a new set of brake hardware comes with 4 rubber bushings and are used on both top and bottom such as in my 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500hd? Or are all 4 not supposed to have them?
Yes, some kits use them on both slide pins on each caliper
By factory mistake :)?
No, some manufacturers use them on every pin
Tôi thắc mắc mãi, tại sao không làm trên và dưới đều có cao su?
This rubber bushing, when swollen, will eventually jam the caliper.
Now I need a video on how to clean out those grungy holes when they are caked with some unknown crap. lol. Brakeclean only goes so far. Need some kind of brush on a drill. Hey that's a good tool to invent.
www.ebay.ie/itm/392163635552
:)
I use a bore brush made for cleaning firearms. They have brass bristles and come in different diameters. You can find them online, or at a local gun shop, and are inexpensive.
I use a box of Q-tips and use about 4-5 bunched together in the hole and manually spin it. A couple of sets and it gets the majority of it all out. Then i spray a degreaser in there and let it soak for a few minutes and dump it out. Again with Q tips for a few until its pretty clean. Then i usually use a little bit of brake clean or somethibg as a final touch. 5 total mins per caliber (or less). A drill or bore may work but i would suggest getting as much grease out manually first (especially if someone put a ton in there).
@@Peelerusa
410 gauge
1) Rubber grommets are meant to slowly cause brake failure and wear to increase repair costs plausibly. 2) never ever ever use them, rip them out. Any grease other than silicone will make them swell and seize. 3) Terminate with extreme prejudice
Terminate...the grommet ?
Just use grease
Although it's possible, I doubt here is a rubber boot cartel out there trying to grift off of your repair costs. They have a purpose. It may not be as critical as other features but I doubt they are a scam. Clean them, replace them, remove them as you choose. Results may vary. Use what works for you.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks !
Been told the exact opposite, should be first pin and in practice you tend to find them in either orientation. Whole things just wack
Best info I've found is rubbered pin in trailing position. It makes the most sense to me.
I just left them out ,all was good 😅
dont use synthetic lube.. it makes the rubber swell and cant go back in the caliper..
Hey, my pins were installed incorrectly from the factory, what gives? Hyundai!!!!
Different manufactures have different styles and purposes based on their design.
The rubber bushing do not matter! Just take them off and leave them off.
Only rubbers
since cars after 2022 are designed without those - it confirms that it does NOT matter
Rubber Bushing is shit 💩
Neither. That rubber thing goes in trash can.