Fluid Film VS Surface Shield - Rust Protection Undercoat Comparison Test
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Fluid Film vs Blaster Surface Shield comparison and winter long test for these rust prevention undercoatings.
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A really good review. I appreciate you spending the time doing it
Awesome real life test
I guess it really depends on the weather (especially road salt) in your area to determine reapply
Rust check in Canada has the right idea. They use a thin runny product inside the panels which creeps everywhere. They use a thicker, more durable product on the chassis and exposed areas.
Wow! Amazing testing sir🤙🤙
Thanks for sharing this info. It was very helpful
I just put a layer of Surface Shield on my '22 Subaru Outback. Only took 1.5 cans...(*note : I did not have a hoist*) but did have it up on ramps.
It all depends on how you apply fluid film with how long it will last. I've had vehicles go longer than 2 years without needing to be touched up with fluid film, after applying fluid film, best thing you can do is drive down a gravel road as the oily substance soaks up dust and debris. It's solidifies into a stronger type undercoating and will last for years without needing to be touched up.
After many applications over the years mine seems to be very goopy and doesn’t come off very easily I have noticed as well.
Top it off with automotive grease
@@anthonynicholson5523 that's because it's petroleum jelly based and the only thing that's left is the petroleum jelly and not the lanolin oil that protects from moisture and corrosion
@@JrodKustoms how do you know what’s left behind? Since the two are mixed wouldn’t it be more correct to say some of both are left behind? If woolwax were water soluble it could be removed by water and leave the petroleum jelly behind but it’s not. It makes more sense that a mixture of both is still there. I’ll get some spray cans and do my own comparisons. Appreciate all your effort on the subject.
@@joefoster259 Is it than Lanoline arrested in Vaseline and cannot move? I will buy one can of ss and see what I get from it. You can google "10 year of using cold galvanizing compound" to see my testing.
your car wash looked like they didn't have any suds...like none. Good video - thanks for your efforts.
Thank you for posting this helpful video
Looks like pulling out of the TC Xtreme! Enjoyed the video
Thanks! Yes that’s the one!
Good video and comparison test. Must have had a lot of comments throughout the testing period on how dirty the car looked. Think I'll go with FF if applying every year for almost half the cost.
Good choice! Subaru actually recommends lifting it from the rear diff like that.
Hey may wash off in really rain pelted areas like in wheel wells but as far as inner panels you probably covered.
Been using high quality Bar & Chain oil up here in northern Vermont for over 25 years and never looked back...How and when you apply rustproofing is more important than what you use..
Thanks for doing this comparison. I just bought some Surface Shield to apply in the Fall. One thing I wonder about - I like to clean the frame off as best as I can when I've been off-roading or if I've driven in snow/salt (for protection and also makes it look nice). Once this undercoat is sprayed on, do I need to just leave it alone and not clean up under there (since my cleaning would otherwise rub some of it off)? Maybe wait until year one and do a thorough clean/removal before another annual application? Thanks!
Spraying over it with a hose is no problem but I wouldn’t use a power washer. Surface shield is extremely sticky stuff. It will be very hard to remove it all you pretty much have to scrape it off.
You can apply more over the old coat but if you want something you can wash off every year go with fluid film, surface shield is extremely hard to remove.
I must have got defective cans or something of the surface shield because no way I’ll ever get close to 2 years out of this stuff! I live in south Florida, which is a climate typically different from those who would use a product like this. The reason why I used it is because I’m originally from the rust belt and I tend to take trips up that way. I applied the surface shield in November and haven’t been up north since applying it meaning it wasn’t really exposed to the heavy precipitation/snow and salt of an Ohio winter but instead in went through south floridas “dry season”. We don’t get that much rain during these months and it was weeks before it was wet for the first time from rain. As of May 2022 o was shocked that a lot of the areas under the body were mainly just dried packed dirt. When I wiped the dirt with my finger, it was dry dirt like a car that just had not been washed in the very long time. I never rinsed the underbody at all as well. I don’t see how this can last 2 years if it’s already just dry dirt in a lot of areas in about 5 to 6 months. Is this normal? And wouldn’t packed on dry dirt just encourage rust?
It does collect a lot of dirt but it should still be somewhat wet underneath. Maybe you didn’t put enough product on? Not sure strange!
The dirt is attached to the wax film so it won’t rust the metal. As long as the metal is sealed up from moisture and elements, it doesn’t necessarily matter what’s stuck to the film.
The dirt makes it work. You can throw sawdust or Fullers Earth on it after application too.
Great video ty ❤❤❤
I use LPS #3. Very rarely mentioned in all these tests and comparisons.
Never heard of it I’ll have to check it out
LPS 3 is a great product
I used LP3. It's move ticker than fluid film. It won't wash off easy. It just stick to surface
@@moneyparhar LP3 is Cosmoline. Like CrC HD, Crown HD etc..
I used fluid film last year and surface shield this year, both times from spray cans. They look the exact same applied on the vehicle and if the labels were covered I would not have been able to tell a difference in how they look on the vehicle. The one thing I did notice is how they spray out of the cans themselves. I had a lot harder time getting the surface shield to spray from the can. After I used about 1/3 of a can it started oozing out from under the spray nozzle...A LOT. In the entire can of surface shield I bet 1/4 of it oozes out from under the spray nozzle and completely covered my hand. It was a mess. I have no idea why this happened (maybe the petroleum jelly?) but the only difference I can see is surface shield needs to work on their spray cans because at least 25% of the product goes to waste while you're applying it!
Must have to do with the nozzle. Did you try cleaning it out? Sometimes it just needs to be cleaned
I had the same problem with the surface shield clogging and stopping to spray with three cans. I found if I let them sit for a few mins it would seem to work. The only problem is now I have three cans that are about 1/3 full.
What was the temp when you experienced this? Heat the can up and I suspect it will spray better and empty the can.
Try submerging the spray cans in hot water for 10 to 15 minutes before spraying it really helps move the product out of the can!
@@SNELLERIZED I think somewhere between 45-55 degrees
I think creep is more likely with a porous or rusted area instead of smooth. It's seems to spread like a capillary action in the tiny spaces between rust particles.
That’s a great point too
Thank you. Good info!
Yup np!
I live in Canada and I use Rust Check undercoating and works very great here!!
I’ll have to look into that
I do same in Montreal. Rust chek red and green cane kept rust off my 2002 camry.
Thanks Kurt!
Is about time ⏲️ good videos man
As an auto detailer and paint correction specialist of 35yrs, I gasped at spraying any of these on your final paint finish and then fell over as you rubbed your finger across the surface. Grant it, the former probably isn't detrimental, but the latter and the subsequent removal of the products, will likely cause surface scratches in the clear coat at best, and deeper scratches requiring polishing at worst.
But, thanks for taking one for the team and showing us how both perform on a really smooth surface. On my Collinite waxed vehicles, neither would survive a month 🤣
Haha I’m well aware! This vehicle is mainly an “appliance” type vehicle so a few imperfections isn’t a big deal. Also daily driving in the rust belt it will start to get rust through the body and these scratches won’t even be noticeable lol. But yes if it was a nice car of mine I wouldn’t be doing that!
I read that to remove the surface shield from areas that received over spray (painted body panels) that it requires using paint thinner or acetone to remove it. That to me sounds quite toxic, will not be good for plastic pieces or previous wax jobs
What did you think of that automatic car wash with the brushes?
Thought the same but considering it a sacrifice for the sake of knowledge
and the soft touch wash
Great points u bring up. Great video. Can u paint SS OVER FF if already done? If lanolin washes off SS, what's ur opinion sprayn FF OVER SS??? 🤔
Thanks! There wouldn’t be any issue spraying FF over SS, not sure how will the Ss would set on top of fluid film though, would probably be fine.
I wonder if the perception that the products creep is actually just light over spray that wasn't visible at the time of application. This also applies to the self repair aspect. When some of the product gets knocked off, it still leaves a sticky film behind that dirt ends up adhering to, giving it the illusion of filling the holes. The reality may be that the hole was never really a hole, just a thinned spot.
Don’t think so. I’ve applied it the same way every year in the same spots. If it was overspray it would get covered it grime very quickly. It definitely creeps.
@@KurtofTrades100% creeps have proven it myself, fluid film my interior body panels with pinch welds like rockers ect then I wool wax the rest of the underbody, surface shield is 15-20% petroleum jelly so another guy on YT that tests it say it’s much better than wool wax or fluid film since when the lanolin washes away the petroleum is still on the surface. I may end up doing that next season
I like 1:35 . Right question. Is it creeping ability trade off. Edit so I did spray f Cosmoline at side of my car, exactly same place for test. It was there for approximately 3 years and 50 car washes till faded off enough. Edit I agree with your conclusion at 12:00. My combination is Cosmoline directly over rust. If paint is on nothing at top of it. Fluid film in cavities. Cold galvanizing over exhaust pipes.
Thanks!
@@KurtofTrades It can help if you check my tread "10 year of using cold galvanizing compound" "ford forum". Do not want post link in your video comments. Check post nr #28. Experiment of 2 years is there.
Took a peek. Was it already rusty when you bought it? Seems like stopping it from beginning is the best no matter what. My car had zero rust on it when I started using fluid film and it’s doing very well.
@@KurtofTrades No. It was 10 years old then and not so much rust when I got it. I used cold galvanizing for 10 years but it rusted right through. But even cold galvanizing is better than nothing. Before it I used por15 and rubberized coating to same not so good results. Cosmoline directly over rust work for me. Cold galvanizing works well at exhaust pipes. Exhaust at pickup is 23 years old and still good. Same with my small car 20 years old.
I see that sticker on the rear glass! Currently playing osrs while watching this.
Maxed on rs3! Keep grindin’
Great video!! I am patching rust spots on 89 Toyota frame after I spray fluid film on can I paint frame with spray paint
No nothing will stick to fluid film
Good review. However, price should also be considered when comparing value. Surface shield, at least when purchasing in gallon cans for spray gun application, is WAY more expensive than Fluid Film and also substantially more expensive than Woolwax.
True, I think most people use the cans which are pretty comparable and honestly the largest investment to do this is your time so it’s not that large of a factor for one over the other, but yes you are correct I’ll have to look at the gallon prices I’ve only looked at the cans. Thanks!
Not to mention the cans can clog rather easily so you're better off taping off and prepping a large area all at once instead of little areas at a time.
I think I'm going to go with fluid film this year, then surface shield with subsequent treatments. Just acquired a 2021 vehicle with 8,900 miles. A ford. My last vehicle's subframe rusted all the way through. To be fair, it was 16yrs old, but only had 44,000 miles. Made me sad. I refuse to let that happen again.
Most people experience rust once then realize car washes don’t stop it. I would recommend fluid film every year over surface shield. The more I use them the more I like fluid film better
Would love to see some rubber bushings/parts soaked in these coatings long term to measure how much they swelled up. Petroleum jelly raises some red flags for me.
I have a fluid film review of 8 years on my channel too. I haven’t had any rubbers swelling on my car in that timeframe. Most automotive rubbers that are exposed to the elements are resistant to that
I believe it is actual petroleum products that ruin rubber.
i love seeing a fellow scaper. subd
Haven’t played in a couple years but it holds a special place in my heart, great memories from when I was a kid!
"CREEP" occurs upon application when the material is wetter and thinner.
After they dry, "creep" does not occur.
It actually does still occur after they dry, fluid film never really dries. Mine always creep a ton when it warms up in the spring. They creep about 3-4 inches months after being applied
Does it matter what condition the metal is before applying these and does it help to treat them before and if so how? Is cleaning and degreasing enough so there's something clean to adhere to?
Also, if one is willing to put in the time to derust the underbody and parts, is there a preferred way to treat them prior to applying an oil-based rust protector such as these? E.g. POR-15, epoxy, SPI, powder, etc. And either way is it important to get all the rust out or only as much as you can?
These products are supposed to be used before your car starts rusting at all, ideally when it is brand new or before it sees salt the first time. They work best by stopping the initial rust formation in problem areas like doors and nooks on the underside. Once the car is rusting from the inside out these won’t help much. They require very little prep.
POR15 is for after your vehicle is already rusty.
Good vid.
Your commitment is nice - making your car look like sh!t for so long for a test 👍
Looks terrible all winter anyways from the road grime haha
I agree you won't go wrong with either product. But I always get "Krown" done as the first treatment on my vehicles no matter I go with for future applications. That stuff creeps into the smallest seams where rust often likes to begin. Usually I stick with Krown, but I have tried others on various cars (NEVER rubberized tar like treatments though). I live in a major rust belt in Canada. I want to protect from than just body rust, but brake lines and fittings, suspension bolt threads etc. As a DIYer it's sure helpful when parts aren't rusted together.
I’ve heard a lot of good things about krown as well, seems pretty similar. Thanks!
Those apply Krown rust proofing will drill several 3/8” holes your car to access all the places inside the body and doors. They then insert “factory looking” plugs into the holes. Krown might very well do the job they claim, but when I heard that I said no thanks. Not going to drill holes in my car. Probably would void the corrosion warranty too.
Try Corrosion Free Rust Cure u will stop using Krown ;)
@@ukasz6539 Franchises in southern Ontario?
@@pedrorojascervantes3928 Dont know i live in Poland
Im an outlaw i use TCW3 2 stroke oil mixed with a splash of kero and man does it creep and seep.
It even cleans off rusty flakes and makes rusted areas look solid again while stopping rust in its tracks.
Sorry lol :)
What is tcw3? And does the oil attack rubber components? Fluid film is just lanolin that does not attack the rubber.
@@dpok69 I been doing it for 30 years with no problems.Just try to avoid your rubber if it bothers ya.
Thanks for the review. Apparently these products are good to keep rust from forming in the first place. Does anyone have any opinion on this: I am using Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer Spray, on light to moderate rust on the undercarriage and frame of my vehicle (according to Rust-Oleum, I should use the spray form on light to (at most) only moderate rust conditions) using the liquid to brush on the product, mainly on heavily rusted parts---as on my other vehicle). Once I have done this according to Rust-Oleum, I need to paint over the rust reformed area. --Now, after doing this, do any of you believe that it would provide extra protection of the surfaces to spray Surface Shield over the fully dried paint surface and then touch it up every 1 or 2 years (depending on how bad a winter we get here in Michigan, and how often I drive the vehicle in the elements of course)? I did not know this product would stick to paint as well as it appears to, and that's why I am asking. Since this Surface Shield seems relatively easy to apply, if it can stick to painted surfaces on the undercarriage, where the surface rust has already been mostly killed, why not use it? Any suggestions since I am unfamiliar with this product?
It definitely won't hurt to do that. The only reason I wouldn't do the rustoleum then the surface shield or fluid film is if the rust is really heavy already, IF the rust is formed on the back or inside of panels then doing these won't solve the problem. Sounds like yours is light rust so it definitely should slow it down, which is the ultimate goal. Go for it.
Definitely use fluid film or surface shield. That rust reformer is only good on light surface rust, if you seal the rust jn with paint it will form scale under the paint. Your better off just hosing everything down with fluid film or surface shield once or twice a year, get one of the 360 degree straws to spray inside boxed frame sections and body panels.
@@semajniffirg230 Rust reformers are good for nothing. Only at way of Lanoline and Cosmoline doing its job.
Would it be possible to just spray rust remover under the vehicle after each winter? Just remove the rust after it has come? Using some pressure washer in between applications
Not that easy to do.
Thanks!
My first super thanks! Thanks!❤️ if you want a Kurt of trades T-shirt or one of my bumper stickers let me know I’ll send you one for free!
Do you guys have pros with special spray guns drilling holes and applying these in a business ? Over here in Canada we have krown rust control, corrosion free, and rust check.
Not specifically for the these products there are krown locations in the us and there are some undercoating shops that use a variety of products.
Oh yeah let's get it
Hello, great video. How many cans do you think I would need for a four door car like yours.
Thanks! If it’s the first application and you are doing under the fender liners probably 3. A recoat without doing under the fender liners takes me 2.
Great, I wondered about those fender skirts, I have a 2022 Sorento and it has those soft almost fabric type material in the rear quarter panels.
Thanks for replying so quickly.
I have 3 cars. Winter i Norway. On my bee 5 years. 150 cans., More cans the better.
In my country surface shield is not available, but fluidfilm is.
Do you know if it is possible to just mix fluidfilm and petroleum Jelly, and get a similar result? If so what would be the mixing ratio?
I would just stick with fluid film it is extremely good.
@@KurtofTrades ok, thanks
Really good information in the video. Fluid Film is advertised as non-toxic. Does the petroleum jelly in the Surface Shield make it toxic or is it non-toxic as well?
According to their website it is non toxic as well. Still make sure you use precautions like a respirator and goggles as it’s an irritant!
@@KurtofTrades Got it thanks
Wash away in lake Michigan ? are these products harmfull for the enviro ?
i always wonder about these products destroying the " echo sys " Thank you
Not sure, they are non toxic and a percentage petroleum based I believe. Don’t know how quickly they degrade or anything though in the environment.
My thoughts are if they can extend someone having to scrap out a vehicle by 10-15 years that probably offsets any negative aspects of it.
Can you mix Blaster surface shield with a Krown or Rust Check product?
I’m not sure what those products contain but it’s unlikely they would be reactive. I would do one or the other and not both though.
Hey I thought the same question mixing together or one on top of the other.
Surface Shield is made by Blaster makers of Rust Buster for corroded bolts and nuts. This product is excellent for seeping into metal pinch welds and joined metal. I was thinking of spraying this into those areas then top of with Surface Shield or Fluid Film or Woolwax.
Doesn't matter how good a product is if you can't get it. Amazon says product unavailable and they don't know when or if it will be back in stock. Fluid film is readily available so that makes it the winner
I like fluid film better the more I think about them too. Don’t like how hard Ss gets.
I wouldn't believe either would even last a 2 months much less a season or 2 yrs. They probably tested it in Southern Ca or the Arizona desert without ever driving it and what does. Test that in the salt covered, graveled roads of upstate NY and you will have much different results. South Main Auto channel is a fan of fluid film. Thanks for the testing but how these creep on smooth paint is remarkable different from how they will on metal, which I believe will be much better.
I believe that the surface shield lasts that long but the more I use it the less I like it. It hardens like a rock but doesn’t seem to be near as good as fluid film. You have to chisel it off almost.
Thanks god bless
Fluid film works really well on a snowblower, coat all inside surfaces and it helps blow the snow further without clogging.
FLUID FILM was developed for the NAVY to STOP RUST in their double bottom ships back in 1943.
I've been doing PB BLASTER penetrating spray let dry then hit it with FLUID FILM with great results.
This year I bought a gallon pail of SURFACE SHIELD !?!?
HMMM 🤔
I don't recommend that you just spray PB Blaster penetrant around under your vehicle liberally. That stuff works good as a penetrant bug it eats rubber and plastic bad. It will destroy your bushings, cv boots, and various seals of you get it on them and crack your taillights if it were to creep a c finc it's way onto them from road wind blowing it around.
I want that blaster
Project Farm tested Fluid Film as a gun lubricant, and surprisingly it came out in the middle for quality, compared to several lubricants made for guns. I use it for motorcycle chains, since it costs less than most I use it more often, and it does not collect as much road grime as some choices.
Yea it’s a pretty versatile product. Seems surface shield is only recommended for an undercoating.
I saw on another video to spray underneath push mower decks (& lawn tractors) & grass doesnt stick/wont rust! ALSO, my old window air cond squealed. I sprayed w/pb blaster, WD40, etc, still made noise. Until one yr, shaft motor moaned/froze up. I sprayed shaft w/ff left it creep, & runs like new again!
Don’t try that with ss though it’s crazy sticky and is a pain to get off anything.
How is fluid film for dirt sticking to it?
Lanolin is very wet and sticky so any dirt sticks to it.
Can you spray your whole exhaust system with these products?
No you shouldn’t. It will just burn off if you do.
10:58 the people who washed their cars after you, got wax residue on their paint lol I think the surface shield went on thicker, which im my opinion is much better. If you want to cover more area, spray it further away around 14-16 inches to cover more surface area. Fluid film is just thinner and has a wider spray pattern
Risks of using an automatic wash haha
@@KurtofTrades that’s true, that’s what they get! 😂 I do use those self serve car washes, but never use the brush. Just go to knock the dust off. Fortunately I’m by the desert on the west coast, so not much builds up on the cars. Awesome vid
That’s good haha thanks!
What do you guys think about the crc 6026?
Never used it but looking at it it sounds like its like surface shield without the lanolin, I would think SS or FF would be better but can't say for sure.
@@KurtofTrades Nop. I use CRC 6023 heavy. It is Cosmoline and it is in my tread "10 year of using cold galvanizing". It is toward bottom of comments.
I wonder how Surface Shield will hold to grass build up on a mower deck?
I would use fluid film for that, surface shield will not come off and would buildup over time.
I prefer fluid film, never had issues of it washing off. And besides petroleum based undercoating can damage seals and gaskets.
what about rubbers plastics under the car
No issues with them swelling or degrading at all, been using fluid film for 6 years. Not sure on the petroleum jelly part of surface shield though, it most likely won’t damage anything either.
which one would you use
Fluid film. I don’t like how much surface shield hardens.
Can this be sprayed on existing rust ? Will it stop/slow it down ?
Should slow down light rust. Heavy rust nothing really can stop it. These are better used on cars that haven’t seen salt yet.
@@KurtofTrades wish I knew about these products sooner . I bought a brand new car last year and there is some surface rust on the pinch welds and I'm looking for solutions
Fluid film should help slow it down, it won’t be a problem for like 10 years though. Depends how long you plan to keep it.
@@KurtofTrades probably around 7
I hammer away thick rust first. Screwdriver and hammer. Then on the hard rust I spray on Fluid Film stop rust.👍🇳🇴
I thought these products were intended as an undercoating and not on the outside of the car and on the paint. What do you do. Spray it. and wipe or wash it off?
Yes they are, it’s hard to see them and film them under the vehicle. I did this as a demonstration.
Thanks Kurt. I genuinely don't know much about these products. Other then a couple of other youtubers said not to apply it on the outside of the car. If you do that. I'm sure you don't leave it on. What do you do. Let it soak in for a bit and wash off?
Use every year most different. Depending on weather. We all know rain , snow is. Never a garrenrty. On how much, Mid west and east most definitely. West coast every 2. Would work.
Is this stuff safe to use on the cars paint for the winter?
Not really necessary to use on the paint it’s more for the underside. It does collect dirt which isn’t the best for paint. It won’t directly hurt the paint though.
@@KurtofTrades how do you remove the SS if it gets on the painted body panels? Or on the plastic pieces near the underbody like sidesteps and other plastic bits?
It’s actually very difficult to get off. I had to scrape it off and scrub like crazy. Soap and water didn’t work very well. A pressure washer might work.
@@KurtofTrades that’s what I was concerned about, getting it off where you didn’t want it. I still want to find a professional to spray my truck but don’t want to deal with overspray they may leave. It appears that I may have to do this job myself as I can’t find anyone to do it for me, I sure wish I had a lift.. I’m getting old..
I use Fluid Film around plastics, rubber, grease fittings, and hardware then CRC everywhere else
For how long that FluidFilm smell stays?
Only couple days
Don't you think that you would have gotten a better idea of the creeping ability of these products if you would have taken "gravity" into account?
How can a product creep upward? I think you should have masked off a flat surface and then applied each product.
Might have been better. I know that fluid film can creep vertically as I’ve seen it every year on my car. I don’t think I let them set enough before exposing them to the elements for this test. Thanks for the feedback.
I think you're misunderstanding the idea of "creep". Creep is important during installation and how the product will creep into cracks and crevasses.
That’s def what it means but I also think it’s important for an undercoating to be able to creep after it gets compromised (from a rock chip for example). If it self heals it keeps your ride protected unlike an undercoating that Hardens
Not making a statement against surface shield but petroleum jelly can degrade types of rubber. Might be relevant for components in the undercarriage.
Most rubbers on cars resist that, I’ve had fluid film on my car for 7 years without issue.
Nice to have a two year update?!
Didn’t leave the surface shield on, it’s really nasty stuff, I like fluid film a lot better
Also makes me wonder, perhaps I should heat petroleum jelly till it's able to be sprayed, and simply spray the underside of my truck with it?
Don’t think it would be a bad idea but these products are sprayable and cheap so I don’t see a reason to do that
At 4:00 you applied SS for 2.6 seconds and FF a total of 5.4 seconds. Then, at 9:00, you point out that FF has a bigger coverage. I'm not a genius, but anything done twice as long will cover more. You like FF, understandable. But your own finger wipe test showed how SS is better for longevity
SS def lasts longer. Based on my experience fluid film creeps better. But I don’t think surface shield is much worse. The nozzle on the surface shield gives a wider coat. The fluid film nozzle is very narrow so it took longer to cover the area.
Not sure what the flow rates out of the can are so it would be pretty difficult to get exact amount of product on there.
Appreciate the advice/criticism though
Can petroleum jelly damage certain parts of my car?
Don’t think so. Most rubbers on cars are resistant to oils since they experience road debris and possibly oil leaks.
Blaster surface shield cans stop straying when there's a third of the can left ,at least that's my experience, I went back to fluid film
Boeshield T9 is better than both of them. It is also the best lube for a bike chain
So use both?
Don’t need both, either one is good, I think over time I’m starting to like fluid film better though
FYI if you put any type of "hardening" coating on your undercarriage, you are going to experience rust like you can't even imagine.....GUARANTEED. The product won't run as well and WATER(SALT) will ALWAYS find a way in. Then it will sit under your "coating" forever....until it rusts through.
Edit: You kind of hit that later in the video. But also, why would you grind dirt onto your paint by wiping all that grime directly with a rag? 😬
What's the alternative to getting that grime off?
The blaster version's cans are horrible to use because the spray nozzle leaks like mad and you end up with a giant wasted mess.
Can you trim my full rune plz?
Full rune + 500k
Use them both fluid first blaster last
Nice comparison between the two. If your going to show how well a rust preventative works wouldn't it make more sense to use it actually on areas that rust and not on top of paint. Makes no sense to me on your test.
There’s not really going to be any differences after a year. They take several years to show how wel they slow rust. This is more to compare the properties of them and their durability and ability to creep. I get what you are saying though a longer term test on a fresh car would be a another good test to do too.
Pick a winner. Just say Surface Shield wins!
I think I’m picking fluid film only for the better price!
Do not wash your car all winter, year?
Don’t wash the underside, washing it only removes the fluid film faster
@@KurtofTrades ok, that’s what I was wondering. Thank you
Is PB Blaster's Surface Shield a fantasy or just an April Fool's joke? PB Blaster products everywhere, but nobody has stock on Surface Shield. It was to be initially available only through Home Depot, but they don't even list the product available on their national website. The Amazon link in this video doesn't work either.
Huh I’ll look into the link. I bought these cans at Home Depot last fall. They were hard to get though and were constantly out of stock.
My link works. What country are you in?
Harbor freight has it
@@paulkelly1809 I just contacted HF in my area and out of two stores they had just six spray cans. One store said they haven’t had a delivery from the blaster people in awhile and don’t know when they will get a delivery. I will need over six cans t o do just the underbody and frame of my f150
Surface Shield in one or 5 gallon is double the price as Fluid Film. Unless they come down on the price I’m stocking with Fluid Film.
Wow yea I just looked it’s more than double the price crazy! Especially since the cans are fairly close in price.
If it costs twice as much, has the same coverage, and lasts close to twice as long, the labor labor saved would make it cheaper.
If you believe that it last two years I think it is Marketing I wouldn’t trust that. I tested the Fluid Film Surface Shield and Wool Wax for creep test and Fluid Film creeps the best.
@@martinmorris6271 I’m using both on my suburban this year- I’m using ss on my bottom and ff in the frame rails
Surface Shield works way better no doubt
Thanks for your opinion! I’m not certain I would say way better but you may be right.
I'd rather see a test on metal panels not paint! How it sticks to metal with a bit of surface rust.
These products are more meant to be preventative and applied to a car when new to prevent it from happening in the first place. They are pretty good at sticking to light rust as well though.
Surface Shield does not harden at all. I’m not sure what you are talking about. I’ve been using it since it came out
The only reason he’s using it on the painted surface , is so he can easily show us how it adheres
Someone should build a car wash that automatically sprays fluid film on.
Rust starts in the spring not winter
Yes more so in the spring when it warms up. Once the salt isn’t on the roads it stops becoming a problem
Fluid film on the frame every 12 months!
How is that even a test spraying them on a painted surface?... spray it on some rust.
It’s not meant to be sprayed on rust. It’s meant to be sprayed on the underside before the rust starts to prevent it from happening in the first place.
Only downside is you'll be carrying a couple hundred pounds of dirt on the underbelly of your car .
Don’t think it’s that much weight but yes it gets dirty for sure
First of all, it seems crazy that you applied these products to the exterior of your nice car. You must be wealthy. I almost fell over when I saw you doing that.
Second, application to the finish coat is meaningless. This isn't where the products are used. It's made for UNDER-coating. The rusty rough dirty surfaces are COMPLETELY different from a glossy clean exterior finish. The rough and rusty parts in the undercarriage are much more porous and the products will "soak in" and spread much more. Testing for adhesion in a glossy surface is just silly.
Last....your testing does not relate in any way, shape or form, to rust proofing. Which is the whole goal with these products.
Thank you for the criticism. Doing a full scale test on the underside takes several years to show results for how well it slows down rust.
I was mainly doing it on the body so you can see how the products work better. The underside is dark and not very visible.
I agree that it’s not a perfect test but gives a good comparison of the properties and application.
It may have left a few scratches on my paint but doesn’t really do much damage to the surface. Thanks for watching!
This was a stupid test. Neither one of these products is designed to be used on a painted surface. They're designed to be applied over rust. You might as well have been testing how well facial foundations work on glass.
Thanks for the insight!