Good choice of words in the beginning, “protecting your ‘liability’” rather than ‘investment’. A lot of people think cars are investments, they aren’t. Cars are liabilities
I wouldn’t say all cars are liabilities but the majority of them are. These new cars that people keep buying or acquiring via lease or finance agreements make me laugh when they see me with my 00 Civic, and 87 Accord. They laugh because my car is old. I laugh back because I invested in them as basic A-Z cars that get me to work and back and I fix and build it from scratch. The new cars liabilities. The old cars, especially if they’re Honda or Toyota, if taken care of correctly, cheap on gas, parts, fixing them can be learned via google and UA-cam, and cheap insurance depending on where you live and how use it and a good record along with qualifying for classic insurance.
Tell that to people who bought Svt Cobra Terminators for 20k a few years ago and sell them for 45k now. Depends on what you buy. A shitbox colorado or Kia wont ever be worth anything
Im sure people from warmer climates think it looks like a disgusting mess. Those of us from up north think it looks beautiful! That ford is a pristine salt belt specimen right there. Congrats!
Its holding up very well. I am very happy with the results on the F150. Its my first new vehicle that ive been able to attempt to preserve since day one. If i lived down south i would probably still fluid film but only every 3-5 years. Maybe not.
@@alecaagaard I recently got my first new car as well. I managed to hang half a gallon on the underside of a small SUV. People argue about which product is best but any additional performance to fluid film is utterly superfluous.
My 10 yr. old F 250 has been Krown sprayed every year since new. ZERO rust and for $150.00 or so a year, it's a no brainer. The only downside is missing a fluid leak early. Great video!
I'm glad to hear you do something to combat rust. Krown spray centers is not prevalent around my area, but neither is FF. I'm not worried about fluid leaks similar to yourself. Check the fluids every so often and you will be able to figure it out before it's catestrophic.
I also live in Wisconsin and couldn’t agree more with you. I swear by this stuff. I also used the Amazon gun and switched to the fluid film gun which was much more efficient. Great job 👍🏻
Make sure you get inside the box frame. On pickup trucks, it's especially a bad spot inside the frame, right behind the cab, where it turns upwards to the box. Everything that gets inside the higher part settles in that low spot. My truck frame was great on the outside, but rotted from the inside out in that spot. When I opened it up to repair the frame, it was full of wet sand and stones, and it had been sitting dry for a couple months in the summer. Since salt attracts water, and there was salt mixed in with the sand, it had pulled water from the moisture in the air in and soaked the sand and dirt that was sitting in that spot. It was a similar story for the valley between the inner and outer rear fender. Best bet there is to take out the tail lights and pressure wash that area out and then get the wand in there and get the top area inside the rear quarter cleaned and coated well.
You betcha, the inside of my frames usually have more FF than the outside. I just repaired a section of box frame that had the exact same issue as you described except it was leaves instead of sand. What a disaster. The video is posted on my channel if you want to see it.
Great video! Fluid Film works great. After spraying the vehicle, wait until dark and use a flashlight to find any areas that were missed and get those with the spray cans with the flexible wand if needed. And even if a couple of places are missed Fluid Film wicks its way towards them over time.
Thanks for the update videos. I also live where they salt and brine in the winter. I don’t have a place to the fluid film. There is a guy in town does it very reasonably. We had our cars treated
Great post. Been doing fluid film for 12 years on my vehicles no rust no problems. Heavy salt and brine used here in the GTA. Greater Toronto area. Ontario. Thanks
Thank You, lots of great information and tips. I've a 1986 Diesel Blazer that has never seen Winter, it has only 36K miles on it with zero corrosion, this process and product look to be exactly what I need. I live in Northern Michigan, the road salt is terrible, this undercoating will give my Blazer a fighting chance.
@@alecaagaard Thank You Again. Yes, that Blazer's frame rails are still a semi-gloss black just like when they left the factory, mechanically everything is like brand new. I purchased the Blazer sight-unseen back in 2011 for only $4800. This truck even still has the factory window sticker from 1986, the original price the government paid was $32,900 for the vehicle!
@@alecaagaard Agreed, I really should post a video of it. Right now I'm installing the Dog Head Starter Relay Modification, I've got a lot of the dash wiring harness apart. Ugh, I've so many projects and so little time!
Good work. I also do my own trucks up here on the east coast of Canada. I have a couple of 42” wands that help get in boxed sections of frames etc. I use rust check coat and protect and it has worked over the last decade for me. My new tundra is my first vehicle with felt liners and I have to drop them down before winter and do that extra step!
Felt liners suck! Thanks for the comment sir! I have used those wands before, I don't care for them as much as just sticking the tip of the gun in and letting it rip. I might be overdoing it, but I'm ok with that. It makes me feel good inside. 🤪
Thanks for doing a thorough job, if you were local, I know where i would be going. I bought a used 2019 Jeep Wrangler this year which wasn't oil sprayed and its going in today for diy fluid. Better late than never!
Thanks for watching! I used to coat my GMC Sierra in a 60/40 blend of transmission fluid and diesel fuel. Worked really good. Anything is better then nothing in my eyes.
Just had my 05 Land Cruiser and 08 Tundra undercoated by a competitor over here in Michigan. I was happy with the work and very glad I got it done, but they definitely did not take the wheels and well skirting off. I imagine I paid less as a function of it, but your approach is very impressive.
Thank you for the support. That might be something outside of their standard package and you need to ask / pay extra for it to get some. Anything is better than nothing though!
Thank you Scotty for all you do. Because of you countless amounts of people like myself have learned to do our own maintenance Potentially saving us thousands of dollars.. we appreciate all your hard work. Cheers from mass ole.
Hi Alec. Great video. Thanks for sharing your undercoating job with us. One thing you may want to add is the importance of coating the interior of all cavities, such as the insides of floor frame, and all its crossmembers, front frame, rear frame and back bumper bulkheads. Also, the inside of all doors, wheel fenders and body panels with welded pinch points facing down towards the road; and for those who have it the inside of the engine's hood (or bonnet) and the trunk (or boot) Finally. Consider the use of Waxoyl (a.k.a. Hardwax) instead of Fluidfilm. Waxoyl is much a more durable coating, it doesn't affect rubber parts, electrical components, and window tracks. Waxoyl can also insulate against temperature changes, provide sound-proofing, and is resistant to aging. It beats having to repeat an undercoating every year for the life of the car, when you use fluid film! Even more, Some say that Waxoyl is better for vehicles with existing rust, while painted-on undercoatings may be better for new vehicles.
I did the exact same thing to my Subaru in the fall. Pulling out all the plugs, fender liners, splash shields, and such was my thinking too and I'm glad I did! There's an insane amount of areas where the car can rust out from. Simply coating surfaces doesn't do much when the rust starts from inside, I learned that on my 08 accord haha. Great video.
Sounds like you did it right and a great job of it! You know it, surface rust isn't the reason a vehicle gets parked, parted out or junked. It's the inside out that does it. Thanks for watching!
So how difficult is the “overspray cloud” to remove from the painted surface? Any potential etching or anything if not removed promptly? Thanks- great video!
I do our Ford edge very similar to a car. It's a unibody construction. The concept is the same, your just filling more small holes in the 'floor' compared to frame rails. Take off any shielding and get behind it and put the shielding back up. I don't have a car to make a video on at the moment. Maybe another time in the future. Thanks for watching!
Outstanding job undercoating your truck. Cars and trucks are so expensive these days, we need to keep them running as long as possible. You are a great communicator, and thorough with your procedure. I Thank You for your time and effort for sharing your expertise and wish you great success on UA-cam!
Thank you for the support on this video. Hearing from viewers like you is very rewarding. I hope this video can help every person in the rust belt. It's a shame how much we have to spend to get a decent vehicle and our century old practices just ruin them!
Solid video! Last year I took up the task to fight the good fight of WI brine and chose CRC 06026 on my new F150s frame. And would highly recommend using on new trucks if you have customers that prefer a clean finish. One thing to add- stay away from coating GM 1500 and up frames as they continue to coat with wax from the factory (even though their coating will prematurely fail after 1 year anyways). Fluid film and all lanolin based products will penetrate the wax causing the factory wax to sloth off exposing more bare metal. Keep up the good work.
Good tips sir. I have experience with GM coatings, theres better products than FF to use on them for sure. Although, in contrary, my dads 2019 silverado trailboss is FF and after 4 years and 30K miles it still has all the wax on it and zero rust. I will admit, it definitely ruins the wax, which was junk from the start. Thats one of the biggest reasons i switched from GM to Ford on my latest purchase.
I can highly recommend repurposing a big plastic syringe (100ml or more)! Cut of the front and attach some kind of adapter for a suitable bigger tube. I 3d printed an adapter for the tube and simply glued it on. Filling the Tank takes much less than a minute and there is near to zero spill of fluid film 😊 Love this stuff, messy but effective! Thank you for showing your results.
When I was in Mi. Used Rust Check. Worked well. Fluid Film wasn’t well known or popular like today. The poor guys rust preventative was used motor oil and kerosene mixed. And a pump sprayer. Def helped.
I do the same thing on my vehicles. I use Cosomoline in the really inaccessible areas, when I do the initial treatment. It helps to drive down a dusty road after treatment - builds up a protective layer on the undercarriage. Low pressure garden hose wash is OK - just no pressure washing. I treat mine annually here in PA salt belt.
Ive heard good things about hard wax and cosomoline for the initial treatment. I might have to try that once. How long have you been doing that treatment? seen good results?
It works like a champ. I have vehicles that I drive in the winter treated annually. It is worth it. Pittsburgh Oil Undercoating in Monroeville PA. @@alecaagaard
i wish it was more readily available. I dont think people really even know its an option. Theres almost no local business in my area that offer this. Just hard rubber coatings.
@@alecaagaard rubber coatings are trash. We were super on that. I guess it varies from vehicle to vehicle, but my 4runner, if properly oil sprayed, will not rot. That's mostly the same for body on frame vehicles. Again, I think the dealerships, being more local, should deal with it. Manufacturers can't cater their entire line of vehicles to a statistically small portion of customers. This stuff needs to be handled locally.
I think the chevy Colorado in my video is going to have a hard time in its life. The amount of small holes and intricacies is insane. I suppose we will find out in a couple years eh?!@@Doomzdayxx
Well done. For my truck in addition to the Fluid Film i use a high temp grease on the oil pan as well as the drive shaft. I put it on by hand with rubber gloves. I holds up better on the oil pan as well as the driveshaft than the Fluid Film.
This is how it should be done!!! Just yesterday I spoke to a professional undercoater, who told me it takes him ONE HOUR for a complete, start to finish, undercoating job, and the charge is $300 for a sedan and $350 for a truck or suv. I can't fathom how one could do a complete car in 60 minutes. Taking off wheel well liners, cleaning loose rust or even just washing the dirt off, removing the protective plastic shielding that most new cars have on the bottom, and then undercoating every nook and cranny, including inside the frame and doors, all in one hour just isn't possible. Doing a slap-together job...sure. What they do in this video is how it should be performed the right way, I would do this myself, but I don't have a lift. I will have to visit a couple of local shops that advertise undercoating and see how they do it. If it's something not as meticulous as how it is done here, WALK AWAY. Hoping I can find someone local here in Southern New England that will do the job as thoroughly as the video creator. I have 4 cars that need this done before Fall.
Great video! I've been using Woolwax for 5 years now on all my vehicles its Fluid Film but thicker...Doesnt wash off from road spray or car washes! Highly recommend
@@alecaagaard I have used both on top of one another it's the same lanolin based product👍 the woolwax is made to smell less and thicker consistency and also comes in black and straw (fluidfilm color)👍
Hi from central part of Norway! (Your name suggests Scandinavian heritage) We know all about salt and brine on our roads, a good undercoat is essential here, and on your roads also, I understand
Thanks for the comment! You are absolutely right, Danish in fact. The salt here is pretty crazy. No one gets taught how to deal with poor conditions on roads, so they salt the living hell out of the roads.
Wow, your truck looks new and better than my 09 taco in NJ garage kept with 200,000 miles. I regret not doing any rust prevention measures now it is time to start with a free frame replacement.
If I only had a lift! I used jack stands inside my narrow garage. It was a pain in the ass. Did not remove the tires or wheel well liners. But I did remove the skid plates and dust covers inside the front wheel wells. Im pretty sure I dont have to worry about it. Brand new '23 Toyota Tacoma.
Did this to my 2019 Ram . First gravel road I drove had a rusty looking cloud of dust. Looked like the whole under body was rusted. Rusty tint is now gone.. I also spray black paint over the fluid film in the wheel wells. Looks better.
I used AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector on my Tacoma. First coat went on when the truck was new, the second coat went on at 3 years. After 9 Ohio winters I traded the truck in with no rust anywhere on or under it. The underside was not dirty or oily and I sprayed the bottom of the truck at every cleaning. I know FF works, but it needs applied every year and it will wash off.
Thats great results. The hardened wax coatings like amsoil HD, wool wax, Boss wax and others are awesome for frames but fall short in almost all other areas when it comes to undercoating. FF is awesome because it stays liquid and 'creeps' into body panels and cavities that a hard coating would never touch. FF also gets behind seams, sealed or welded, where hard wax would not. FF falls short with durability in certain areas. A combo of both is really the best option.
Brand new lol we have been using fluid film on the farm for years on parts that sit for the season inside air seeders compartments had to give you hard time good video
Thank you sir, i can't thank FF enough for keeping these things looking brand new. I've seen hundreds of vehicles that look like total crap just a couple years into their life. Couldn't aFORD to let that happen to mine.
F150 looks awesome for 4 winters. I do my vehicles but buy cans. I may need to up my game as many family members could benefit from using a coat of fluid film. Much faster for sure. Never though of taking wheel liners out. My new 22 Corolla will need to get that done. I'm in Northeast NYS bad winters too.
Im really happy with the F150 and its current state of rust free-ness. I hope the fluid film will continue to hold it up for many years. I think you would like to upgrade from the cans to a gun. I think the cans are chump to the gun now that ive used it for a few years. Thanks for watching the video!
Wife’s spoon got me in a lot of trouble. I prep the 5 gallon fluid film with a paint mixing drill bit / drill. I hold a heat gun against the surface while I’m mixing until it liquifies.
Awesome video! I didn't think about removing the whole inner fender liners to apply but that helps a lot. If you get a customer vehicle in that's about the same age, 4-5 years and wasn't treated yet, would be a good comparison video for how the treatment helps in your particular area in comparison to no treatment. 👍👍
a cheap amazon hand pump for the bucket makes filling the gun very easy. also using a pressurized cup gun or even better an airless paint sprayer works better than the cheap suction type guns. the Rodac gun is half the price of the Fluid Film gun and is pressurized and has wands. used airless paint sprayers can be found pretty cheap at yard sales and dont require an air compressor and can take a 1 or 5 gallon pail
Great tip. However, my car is on jackstands, so I worry that the paintgun would struggle with the low angle. It might also be a bit cumbersome underneath that low clearing. I don’t really want a compressor. Doing the job with cans is no dream either. Its like choosing between the least bad options 😄
@@fnagdungdagint airless actually is more maneuverable as it doesnt have a 1 quart can hanging down and can spray at any angle (the can type gun dont work upside down or at extreme angles as the straw comes out of the fluid) you dont have to use a long wand on airless - they make short wands or you can use no wand and just a spray tip
@@volks-jager How many watts do you need? Fluid film is kind of like ketshup ☺️. I have my eyes on a 650w airless one. Think it would be enough? Bosh pfs 5000 e is also a alternative. That one is 1200w, but have the reservoir hanging under the gun.
@@fnagdungdagint doesnt matter they are made to spray latex paint which is pretty thick. just get the type that takes a 1 or 5 gallon bucket. but make sure the fluid film is not super cold. fluid film sprays better the warmer it is. leave bucket near heater vent if you can and it will thin out. and make sure to mix it up really well. we actually had to spray some in a cold garage once so we warmed some up in a presto pot and it sprayed awesome. here is a clip on youtube of someone using an airless - ua-cam.com/users/shortsYaKK_uXKi8g he is using Woolwax, but that is the same thing as Fluid Film
I actually disagree. I think the dealerships drop the ball on this one. We can't expect manufactures to oil spray every single vehicle. Rust is not an issue everywhere. It has to be more localized.
Great video, maybe next time show using the tubes on the spray gun? I do this to all of my vehicles as well, never thought about pulling the wheel well liners, I will be doing that. Thanks!!!!
Wheel liners are an awesome addition to a vehicle in modern engineering. Why the heck they decided carpet instead of plastic baffles me. I'm sure it's cheaper and might kill some more road noise. As a detailer and clean freak, I hate those carpet liners. Oh well.
This is beneficial as long as the place where you take it knows what they are doing, otherwise the brand new vehicles with the sensors can get messed up from this stuff.
Do you have a specific situation, make, model and sensor you are talking about? I have experience fluid filming all the big auto MFG and have never had an issue with messing up any sensors. Albeit i dont spray sensors just to spray them...
Wish I knew about this stuff long ago. I'm your neighbor have the same issues in MN. I used Blaster surface shield last year on my 22 Tacoma and like in your vid you can see where you missed. Both products will make your vehicle last until your engine or trany fail! With out it you know rotted out frame by 7-8 years.
It's definitely a PITA. I did it for 3 years doing 3 vehicles per year. Well worth the couple hours though. I don't even worry when I see the salt trucks out.
Ive been spraying fluid film for a few years on a older plow dump truck trying to save it from the salt.if it isnt washed off in the spring it mixes with the fluid film and makes a corrosive paste that isnt effective for the next winter. In years past we would use used transmission oil on our beach fishing rigs to protect them from the salt along the beaches and ocean spray.
Thanks for the comment, thats some good info. I have never ran into the corrosive paste issue. i would assume the rain water takes care of that on its own. Ive use the old transmission oil and diesel fuel mix on my older GMC and that held up really good actually. the frame on that still looks really good even though it now gets parked for winter. It had 4 winters with the trans/diesel mix.
You betcha! the garage does have one heck of an odor for about a week when both of our vehicles get sprayed the same day. Even worse if theres a rain in the same day.
I used FF for years but switched to wool wax. It's made by FF and it's basically the same stuff but thicker and doesn't smell as much. You can also get it in black.
Thats good info, how did that go for you switching? I have thought about giving it a try but i wasnt sure how the two would mix. Did you have to pressure wash your frame before reapplying?
You don't have to do anything different , it's the same stuff made by the same company it's just thicker so it stays on better and it doesn't have that strong smell. One trick to using it would be to warm it up. we have a few bottles that fit the gun and fill them up and put them in a pan of warm water and take them one at a time use one fillit up put it in the water and get a warm one. We use the same gun as fluid film. @@alecaagaard
I use fluid film.. drive down highway at 60 mph in rain... film is gone from spray areas. I now use cosmoline on open areas first, when it dries, I use fluid film for all the nooks and crannies. I have a 3 foot flexible wand with 4 way nozzle to get inside holes.
That sounds like it works great for you. I have never had an issue with the film coming off after one rain storm, and clearly even when it does come off its not enough to cause rust issues. 🤝 Thanks for watching and the suggestion!
I think I'm going to be doing this to my car for the first time ever this year. I'm not sure what the best way of jacking it up so I can get underneath properly is going to be though. It looks like it's going to be very tricky for someone to do at home.
Get yourself some really nice jack stands that are very stable at 18-24" off the ground. Use a creaper if you have the height. I fluid filmed 3 vehicles/year on the ground for 4 years. You dont NEED a lift to do this, but it does make it much easier!
Nice video fyi I use a a pancake it works fine but I don’t have a lift so it has more time to keep up. They have a 360 wand for the aerosol cans and I find it easier in the doors.
Awesome info. I have never tried a pancake but that's definitely going to be helpful for someone watching this video. The 360 wands are great for small places.
I would not worry about that too much sir. I have only had one thing swell up on me and thats the lower rocker panel door seals on the edge. You can just barely see it from under the car. I have never had a bushing, boot or electrical connector show any negative signs from FF. I would go for it if i were you!!
I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado that I fluid filmed the same week I purchased it new from Holz Chevrolet in Wisconsin. When I went in for my first oil change they told me my vehicle was now void of any warranty protection. 7 years later now still no rust and no warranty so I'm glad I did it but for years worried about not any factory warranty.
That's awesome to hear you are having great results. In the future you can tell any dealership, including Holz that they are full of Bullsh!t! They cannot void an entire warranty because you fluid filmed the vehicle. They would need to prove that the fluid film caused the broken part. You can look this up for more info called Magnuson moss warranty act. 👍
@@markperza384 Not sure about rust and corrosion warranty? They said I voided my factory warranty because the fluid film attracts dirt and would cause premature wear. The exact words from the service manager. Does not matter now because all the warranty is over from 2016. All I know is my truck is still rust free unlike many other 2016 Silverados.
My guess is he is confused by your use of "liability". Hilariously he is the one who needs to use a dictionary. Which is usually how it is with people on the internet.
If you're cheap like me, you can do what my grandfather used to get paid to do way back in the day, and spray used motor oil underneath. Stinks like hell, kind of messy to apply, but I kept an '07 Silverado 1500 alive with it until I sold it this year. Automakers will continue to cheap out on metals, so you've got to do something if you don't have a big money tree growing in your back yard, dropping $100 bills everywhere in piles. I've noticed that newer vehicles (Late 90's and up) keep the paint looking good for a lot longer than the older stuff (80's and back)... BUT, the stuff that counts - the FRAME, and suspension - rots away 10x faster than the older stuff ever did. I'm certain 2023 models don't stand a chance!
Anything is better than nothing! sounds like your recipe works good! I do agree with you about the frames, but we are a victim of our own asks. SOMEONE keeps telling MFGs. to give us max tow ratings on 1500s well into the double digits, so we get fully boxed frames and more which are much harder to keep from rusting out.
@@alecaagaard It's not the box style frame - it's the metal they use. Just take a peek underneath at anything that's just 4 years old or more that's run in road salt. If it gets driven in salt , then parked, it's REAL bad. The amount of rust is frightening. Stuff from the 40's to 70's didn't even rust that fast. Late 90's to early '00's Fords are the worst. I've never seen undercarriages rust up that bad in such a short amount of time. My buddy had an '04 Expedition that required torches for anything underneath ... and this was in 2010!
Thank you!! I’ve always wondered why people wash their undercarriage once FF is applied. You are just washing off what you are going to spend time and money reapplying. If the product works like it claims dirt, salt etc are not an issue and FF gets under all the crud and bonds to the metal. So why risk washing FF off while attempting to remove stuff that isn’t a problem anyway?
spray those running board brackets heavily. all the salt saturated snow builds up right behind the front wheels and hangs there and really beats them up..
You do this work for us guys with only a home garage? I am near MKE. I do most of my own work, but I can't get fully under my truck in my attached garage. I have wanted this done to my 2011 ram that is still in great shape because it was from down south, had it up in WI for second year now. I had a chevy with swiss cheese frame that spent its whole life in WI, it was only 12 years old and was beyond repair.
Thanks for the interest. Check out my buddy, his business name is "Nomad autoworks LLC" on facebook. He is located in Janesville wi and does very thorough work similar to myself. Unfortunately im not set up for customers at the moment. I have a frame off resto turbo build im working on right now and all the summer toys are stored too.
Check out my buddy, his business name is "Nomad autoworks LLC" on facebook. He is located in Janesville wi and does very thorough work similar to myself. Unfortunately im not set up for customers at the moment. I have a frame off resto turbo build im working on right now and all the summer toys are stored too.
I found out about fluid film too late. I bought my 2011 F150 in 2019. The frame looked spectacular when I bought it to replace my 2006 F150 that had severe frame rust thru. Unfortunately, the cab corners and inner rockers were already rusting on the 2011. I have sprayed it down with the ff to slow it down, but the rust won’t get better, only worse. The frame still looks great in comparison to the old truck. I just buy several of the aerosol cans for the yearly touch ups.
Unfortunately we all got to learn some how. This product has existed well longer than i have been alive and i didnt use it on my 2001 that i bought 9 years ago. At least with your knowledge you might save whatever comes after your 2011.
To late for me....had to replace the front and rear subframe (and associated parts) on my 2010 Legacy. That at 110,000 miles after commuting 30 miles into Boston for about 10 years.
Isnt it amazing how quickly a nice rust free car can get ruined by salt? 10 years ago my 2001 gmc sierra went from the cleanest truck i could buy to needing rocker panels in one snow storm.
I do like it , But when you have to do any work on the underside it's messy. Because I did a lot of lifts on trucks and when I seen it's been done I know itts going to be a long messy day .
Great video. How long after you completed a vehicle were you able to drive? Also how much trouble do you think it would be if you had to do the complete vehicle with the spray cans ? Again Thanks, Steve
Thanks for the comment sir, you can drive immediately afterwards there isn't much dry time. I don't think I would use the cans simply because of cost and time. I think they are $8 a can? That adds up fast. Coverage is definitely a downfall too. But, if it's all you can do, it's definitely better than nothing!
My dad use to do this to all his plowing equipment and when he retired, he left me some of the fluid film tools, what are you changing to do a job like this? I might get me a pal and do some other peoples cars too... Just curious.... TIA!
Good choice of words in the beginning, “protecting your ‘liability’” rather than ‘investment’. A lot of people think cars are investments, they aren’t. Cars are liabilities
It makes me laugh when people call them investments... I just call them toys. I know all my toys are a waste of money. And im ok with that...
@@alecaagaard lol yup exactly
I wouldn’t say all cars are liabilities but the majority of them are. These new cars that people keep buying or acquiring via lease or finance agreements make me laugh when they see me with my 00 Civic, and 87 Accord. They laugh because my car is old. I laugh back because I invested in them as basic A-Z cars that get me to work and back and I fix and build it from scratch. The new cars liabilities. The old cars, especially if they’re Honda or Toyota, if taken care of correctly, cheap on gas, parts, fixing them can be learned via google and UA-cam, and cheap insurance depending on where you live and how use it and a good record along with qualifying for classic insurance.
Tell that to people who bought Svt Cobra Terminators for 20k a few years ago and sell them for 45k now. Depends on what you buy. A shitbox colorado or Kia wont ever be worth anything
@@1991tommygun yes but very rare
This is by far the best undercoat video on UA-cam. Clear, concise and with multiple examples of its effectiveness. Good job!
Wow, thank you! Just a small youtube channel trying to show off what works best for me. Appreciate the support.
Im sure people from warmer climates think it looks like a disgusting mess. Those of us from up north think it looks beautiful! That ford is a pristine salt belt specimen right there. Congrats!
Its holding up very well. I am very happy with the results on the F150. Its my first new vehicle that ive been able to attempt to preserve since day one. If i lived down south i would probably still fluid film but only every 3-5 years. Maybe not.
@@alecaagaard I recently got my first new car as well. I managed to hang half a gallon on the underside of a small SUV. People argue about which product is best but any additional performance to fluid film is utterly superfluous.
Southern- non coastal. Coastal is gnarly saline environment if unprotected
My 10 yr. old F 250 has been Krown sprayed every year since new.
ZERO rust and for $150.00 or so a year, it's a no brainer.
The only downside is missing a fluid leak early.
Great video!
I'm glad to hear you do something to combat rust. Krown spray centers is not prevalent around my area, but neither is FF. I'm not worried about fluid leaks similar to yourself. Check the fluids every so often and you will be able to figure it out before it's catestrophic.
Is that the aluminum body generation or the steel body?
Where’s this $150 price?
I also live in Wisconsin and couldn’t agree more with you. I swear by this stuff. I also used the Amazon gun and switched to the fluid film gun which was much more efficient. Great job 👍🏻
Wisconsinites unite, fluid film is the way! Thanks for the support! 🤝
Make sure you get inside the box frame. On pickup trucks, it's especially a bad spot inside the frame, right behind the cab, where it turns upwards to the box. Everything that gets inside the higher part settles in that low spot.
My truck frame was great on the outside, but rotted from the inside out in that spot. When I opened it up to repair the frame, it was full of wet sand and stones, and it had been sitting dry for a couple months in the summer. Since salt attracts water, and there was salt mixed in with the sand, it had pulled water from the moisture in the air in and soaked the sand and dirt that was sitting in that spot.
It was a similar story for the valley between the inner and outer rear fender. Best bet there is to take out the tail lights and pressure wash that area out and then get the wand in there and get the top area inside the rear quarter cleaned and coated well.
You betcha, the inside of my frames usually have more FF than the outside. I just repaired a section of box frame that had the exact same issue as you described except it was leaves instead of sand. What a disaster. The video is posted on my channel if you want to see it.
Great video! Fluid Film works great. After spraying the vehicle, wait until dark and use a flashlight to find any areas that were missed and get those with the spray cans with the flexible wand if needed. And even if a couple of places are missed Fluid Film wicks its way towards them over time.
Great tip, thanks for the support and comment!
Thanks for the update videos. I also live where they salt and brine in the winter. I don’t have a place to the fluid film. There is a guy in town does it very reasonably. We had our cars treated
Good deal, doing FF on the grounds sucks, i did it for many years.. if its in the budget paying a pro is a great option. Thanks for watching!
Great post. Been doing fluid film for 12 years on my vehicles no rust no problems. Heavy salt and brine used here in the GTA. Greater Toronto area. Ontario. Thanks
You have it similar if not worse in regards to salty winters! 12 years is promising! i hope to get the same amount and make a video on it too. :)
Any issues with rubber boots and plastics and stuff?
@DG-hq6rc 6 months and no answer to this valid and important question..??!! Hmm makes me wonder.
@@leslietoth7969 Read the MSDS on the fluid film website. Do you want him to drive your truck too?
Thank You, lots of great information and tips.
I've a 1986 Diesel Blazer that has never seen Winter, it has only 36K miles on it with zero corrosion, this process and product look to be exactly what I need.
I live in Northern Michigan, the road salt is terrible, this undercoating will give my Blazer a fighting chance.
Im glad this video helped you make an informed decision. You wont be disappointed with FF. PROTECT THAT BLAZER AT ALL COSTS, SIR!
@@alecaagaard Thank You Again.
Yes, that Blazer's frame rails are still a semi-gloss black just like when they left the factory, mechanically everything is like brand new. I purchased the Blazer sight-unseen back in 2011 for only $4800. This truck even still has the factory window sticker from 1986, the original price the government paid was $32,900 for the vehicle!
That sounds like an absolute time capsule. I think we need to see a video of this thing!@@hkguitar1984
@@alecaagaard Agreed, I really should post a video of it. Right now I'm installing the Dog Head Starter Relay Modification, I've got a lot of the dash wiring harness apart. Ugh, I've so many projects and so little time!
I love how you call what it is a liability.
Going down in value every second...
Good work. I also do my own trucks up here on the east coast of Canada. I have a couple of 42” wands that help get in boxed sections of frames etc. I use rust check coat and protect and it has worked over the last decade for me. My new tundra is my first vehicle with felt liners and I have to drop them down before winter and do that extra step!
Felt liners suck! Thanks for the comment sir! I have used those wands before, I don't care for them as much as just sticking the tip of the gun in and letting it rip. I might be overdoing it, but I'm ok with that. It makes me feel good inside. 🤪
@@alecaagaard Let it rip!! This is also my approach 👍😎👍
I'm in Nova Scotia, have an appointment booked in two days to get my 2023 Madza 3 Rust Checked
Ive been using FF on my 2015 since day 1. Recoat every other year. No underbody rust so far in the rust belt
F150? That's awesome results! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for doing a thorough job, if you were local, I know where i would be going. I bought a used 2019 Jeep Wrangler this year which wasn't oil sprayed and its going in today for diy fluid. Better late than never!
Thanks for watching! I used to coat my GMC Sierra in a 60/40 blend of transmission fluid and diesel fuel. Worked really good. Anything is better then nothing in my eyes.
Just had my 05 Land Cruiser and 08 Tundra undercoated by a competitor over here in Michigan. I was happy with the work and very glad I got it done, but they definitely did not take the wheels and well skirting off. I imagine I paid less as a function of it, but your approach is very impressive.
Thank you for the support. That might be something outside of their standard package and you need to ask / pay extra for it to get some. Anything is better than nothing though!
Thank you Scotty for all you do. Because of you countless amounts of people like myself have learned to do our own maintenance
Potentially saving us thousands of dollars.. we appreciate all your hard work. Cheers from mass ole.
RIP SCOTTY K
Hi Alec. Great video. Thanks for sharing your undercoating job with us.
One thing you may want to add is the importance of coating the interior of all cavities, such as the insides of floor frame, and all its crossmembers, front frame, rear frame and back bumper bulkheads. Also, the inside of all doors, wheel fenders and body panels with welded pinch points facing down towards the road; and for those who have it the inside of the engine's hood (or bonnet) and the trunk (or boot)
Finally. Consider the use of Waxoyl (a.k.a. Hardwax) instead of Fluidfilm. Waxoyl is much a more durable coating, it doesn't affect rubber parts, electrical components, and window tracks. Waxoyl can also insulate against temperature changes, provide sound-proofing, and is resistant to aging. It beats having to repeat an undercoating every year for the life of the car, when you use fluid film! Even more, Some say that Waxoyl is better for vehicles with existing rust, while painted-on undercoatings may be better for new vehicles.
I did the exact same thing to my Subaru in the fall. Pulling out all the plugs, fender liners, splash shields, and such was my thinking too and I'm glad I did! There's an insane amount of areas where the car can rust out from. Simply coating surfaces doesn't do much when the rust starts from inside, I learned that on my 08 accord haha. Great video.
Sounds like you did it right and a great job of it! You know it, surface rust isn't the reason a vehicle gets parked, parted out or junked. It's the inside out that does it. Thanks for watching!
So how difficult is the “overspray cloud” to remove from the painted surface? Any potential etching or anything if not removed promptly?
Thanks- great video!
@@timmiller7589 an average hand wash takes it off. No scrubbing or worries about paint damage. It comes from sheep, so it's not that harsh.
Nicely done! I know trucks are heavy duty; but I'd like to see more CARS done. They sit lower & get most abuse than a 4WD that sits higher. Thanks!
I do our Ford edge very similar to a car. It's a unibody construction. The concept is the same, your just filling more small holes in the 'floor' compared to frame rails. Take off any shielding and get behind it and put the shielding back up. I don't have a car to make a video on at the moment. Maybe another time in the future. Thanks for watching!
Outstanding job undercoating your truck. Cars and trucks are so expensive these days, we need to keep them running as long as possible. You are a great communicator, and thorough with your procedure. I Thank You for your time and effort for sharing your expertise and wish you great success on UA-cam!
Thank you for the support on this video. Hearing from viewers like you is very rewarding. I hope this video can help every person in the rust belt. It's a shame how much we have to spend to get a decent vehicle and our century old practices just ruin them!
Very thorough job! Tremendous work sir!
Thanks for watching! Just trying to keep some expensive junk rust free junk. :)
Solid video! Last year I took up the task to fight the good fight of WI brine and chose CRC 06026 on my new F150s frame. And would highly recommend using on new trucks if you have customers that prefer a clean finish. One thing to add- stay away from coating GM 1500 and up frames as they continue to coat with wax from the factory (even though their coating will prematurely fail after 1 year anyways). Fluid film and all lanolin based products will penetrate the wax causing the factory wax to sloth off exposing more bare metal. Keep up the good work.
Good tips sir. I have experience with GM coatings, theres better products than FF to use on them for sure. Although, in contrary, my dads 2019 silverado trailboss is FF and after 4 years and 30K miles it still has all the wax on it and zero rust. I will admit, it definitely ruins the wax, which was junk from the start. Thats one of the biggest reasons i switched from GM to Ford on my latest purchase.
I can highly recommend repurposing a big plastic syringe (100ml or more)!
Cut of the front and attach some kind of adapter for a suitable bigger tube. I 3d printed an adapter for the tube and simply glued it on.
Filling the Tank takes much less than a minute and there is near to zero spill of fluid film 😊
Love this stuff, messy but effective! Thank you for showing your results.
This is a great tip. I'll look into that to make my process easier for next year. 😁
Awesome man. Been spraying my tundra for years now. Great product
Good to hear! thanks for watching!!
When I was in Mi. Used Rust Check. Worked well. Fluid Film wasn’t well known or popular like today. The poor guys rust preventative was used motor oil and kerosene mixed. And a pump sprayer. Def helped.
I used to make my own concoction of ATF and diesel fuel about 10 years ago before i found out what fluid film was. Whatever works for you!
Lol agree on the total PIA of filling Fluid Fill gun. Been doing my vehicles for years and it's the best thing possible you can do for your vehicles.🤘
It's a sacrifice worth doing. Let's not talk about that dang gun too much. Bucket top pump next year for sure! Thanks for the comment and watching!
I do the same thing on my vehicles. I use Cosomoline in the really inaccessible areas, when I do the initial treatment. It helps to drive down a dusty road after treatment - builds up a protective layer on the undercarriage. Low pressure garden hose wash is OK - just no pressure washing. I treat mine annually here in PA salt belt.
Ive heard good things about hard wax and cosomoline for the initial treatment. I might have to try that once. How long have you been doing that treatment? seen good results?
It works like a champ. I have vehicles that I drive in the winter treated annually. It is worth it. Pittsburgh Oil Undercoating in Monroeville PA. @@alecaagaard
Get a pump for your 5 gallon pale. I buy it by the 55gal and use a pump on the drum. Fills the container with 2 pumps.
You betcha, thank you! another viewer recommended one of those! I will be getting one for next year!
Great video. I wish more people that live in high salt areas would be more aware of this.
i wish it was more readily available. I dont think people really even know its an option. Theres almost no local business in my area that offer this. Just hard rubber coatings.
@@alecaagaard rubber coatings are trash. We were super on that.
I guess it varies from vehicle to vehicle, but my 4runner, if properly oil sprayed, will not rot. That's mostly the same for body on frame vehicles. Again, I think the dealerships, being more local, should deal with it. Manufacturers can't cater their entire line of vehicles to a statistically small portion of customers. This stuff needs to be handled locally.
I think the chevy Colorado in my video is going to have a hard time in its life. The amount of small holes and intricacies is insane. I suppose we will find out in a couple years eh?!@@Doomzdayxx
Well done. For my truck in addition to the Fluid Film i use a high temp grease on the oil pan as well as the drive shaft. I put it on by hand with rubber gloves. I holds up better on the oil pan as well as the driveshaft than the Fluid Film.
Good tip, do you have a steel oil pan?
Yes, they prematurely rot out on the Ram trucks, the grease holds up much better on the pan than the Fluid Film due to the temperature.@@alecaagaard
Great video brother! vehicles are looking good!!! Can't wait to do my truck too!
This is how it should be done!!! Just yesterday I spoke to a professional undercoater, who told me it takes him ONE HOUR for a complete, start to finish, undercoating job, and the charge is $300 for a sedan and $350 for a truck or suv. I can't fathom how one could do a complete car in 60 minutes. Taking off wheel well liners, cleaning loose rust or even just washing the dirt off, removing the protective plastic shielding that most new cars have on the bottom, and then undercoating every nook and cranny, including inside the frame and doors, all in one hour just isn't possible. Doing a slap-together job...sure.
What they do in this video is how it should be performed the right way, I would do this myself, but I don't have a lift. I will have to visit a couple of local shops that advertise undercoating and see how they do it. If it's something not as meticulous as how it is done here, WALK AWAY. Hoping I can find someone local here in Southern New England that will do the job as thoroughly as the video creator. I have 4 cars that need this done before Fall.
Should you find a good undercoating shop in southern NE, please share it here. I will do the same if I find one.
Did u check quickjack 5000 costco is selling. That's what I have and works great.
Great video! I've been using Woolwax for 5 years now on all my vehicles its Fluid Film but thicker...Doesnt wash off from road spray or car washes! Highly recommend
I might have to give it a shot, but I'm not sure I can on any of my stuff that's been filmed. Switching might be hard.
@@alecaagaard I have used both on top of one another it's the same lanolin based product👍 the woolwax is made to smell less and thicker consistency and also comes in black and straw (fluidfilm color)👍
Hi from central part of Norway! (Your name suggests Scandinavian heritage) We know all about salt and brine on our roads, a good undercoat is essential here, and on your roads also, I understand
Thanks for the comment! You are absolutely right, Danish in fact. The salt here is pretty crazy. No one gets taught how to deal with poor conditions on roads, so they salt the living hell out of the roads.
Same here. Some drivers don't "read" the road conditions, and drive like on dry summer conditions when on smaller, non-salted roads..@@alecaagaard
Wow, your truck looks new and better than my 09 taco in NJ garage kept with 200,000 miles. I regret not doing any rust prevention measures now it is time to start with a free frame replacement.
I learned from the school of hard knocks too. Had plenty of rusty stuff before I found FF. This stuff should save your new frame!
If I only had a lift! I used jack stands inside my narrow garage. It was a pain in the ass. Did not remove the tires or wheel well liners. But I did remove the skid plates and dust covers inside the front wheel wells. Im pretty sure I dont have to worry about it. Brand new '23 Toyota Tacoma.
You and your Tacoma will thank you for years to come. Anything is better than nothing!
Thank you so much for this video. You’re good people.
Thanks for the comment, I'm glad you found it beneficial!
Great video, I really appreciate the thoroughness of your work there.
Im glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the support.
I live in NW Illinois and drive a 2014 Jeep JKUR Rubicon. I FF it every fall and it still looks good underneath..
AWESOME! almost 10 years running then?
Did this to my 2019 Ram . First gravel road I drove had a rusty looking cloud of dust. Looked like the whole under body was rusted. Rusty tint is now gone..
I also spray black paint over the fluid film in the wheel wells. Looks better.
Maybe fluid film black would be a good option for you?
I used AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector on my Tacoma. First coat went on when the truck was new, the second coat went on at 3 years. After 9 Ohio winters I traded the truck in with no rust anywhere on or under it. The underside was not dirty or oily and I sprayed the bottom of the truck at every cleaning.
I know FF works, but it needs applied every year and it will wash off.
Thats great results. The hardened wax coatings like amsoil HD, wool wax, Boss wax and others are awesome for frames but fall short in almost all other areas when it comes to undercoating. FF is awesome because it stays liquid and 'creeps' into body panels and cavities that a hard coating would never touch. FF also gets behind seams, sealed or welded, where hard wax would not. FF falls short with durability in certain areas. A combo of both is really the best option.
@@alecaagaard That's good to know.
Great experience with this product on salty norwegian roads to. Cant beat it!
Thanks for the comment! anything is better than nothing!
Brand new lol we have been using fluid film on the farm for years on parts that sit for the season inside air seeders compartments had to give you hard time good video
Thank you sir, i can't thank FF enough for keeping these things looking brand new. I've seen hundreds of vehicles that look like total crap just a couple years into their life. Couldn't aFORD to let that happen to mine.
F150 looks awesome for 4 winters. I do my vehicles but buy cans. I may need to up my game as many family members could benefit from using a coat of fluid film. Much faster for sure. Never though of taking wheel liners out. My new 22 Corolla will need to get that done. I'm in Northeast NYS bad winters too.
Im really happy with the F150 and its current state of rust free-ness. I hope the fluid film will continue to hold it up for many years. I think you would like to upgrade from the cans to a gun. I think the cans are chump to the gun now that ive used it for a few years. Thanks for watching the video!
Building a garage and equipping it with a hoist seems like a great investment!
I agree. I do all my own service, mechanics and builds, so a lift is essential to keeping it 'fun',
It’s nuts how cheaply made are those trucks.
Great video.
Thanks for watching, its definitely crazy to see the difference compared to my trucks that are 20-25 years old.
Wife’s spoon got me in a lot of trouble.
I prep the 5 gallon fluid film with a paint mixing drill bit / drill. I hold a heat gun against the surface while I’m mixing until it liquifies.
WOW seeing these trucks on a lift with the liners removed. That sucker would be rotted in a couple of years. Great job!!! Fluid film the world !!!
Yeah... Those Colorados scare the hell out of me... they are going to be rust magnets like crazy!
Great video, I ordered the product and gun to do my new Bronco Wildtrak. Thank You!!!
That's awesome, your vehicle, wallet and anyone who has to work on that vehicle in 10 years will thank you!
Awesome video! I didn't think about removing the whole inner fender liners to apply but that helps a lot. If you get a customer vehicle in that's about the same age, 4-5 years and wasn't treated yet, would be a good comparison video for how the treatment helps in your particular area in comparison to no treatment. 👍👍
It would be a good comparison, unfortunately i don't do customer vehicles, and all my family members get the FF treatment. :)
@@alecaagaard haha well maybe something else will roll through your shop someday to display the rusty goodness 😁. Happy new year
a cheap amazon hand pump for the bucket makes filling the gun very easy. also using a pressurized cup gun or even better an airless paint sprayer works better than the cheap suction type guns. the Rodac gun is half the price of the Fluid Film gun and is pressurized and has wands. used airless paint sprayers can be found pretty cheap at yard sales and dont require an air compressor and can take a 1 or 5 gallon pail
Thanks for the tip, I'll have to try that in the future!
Great tip. However, my car is on jackstands, so I worry that the paintgun would struggle with the low angle. It might also be a bit cumbersome underneath that low clearing. I don’t really want a compressor. Doing the job with cans is no dream either. Its like choosing between the least bad options 😄
@@fnagdungdagint airless actually is more maneuverable as it doesnt have a 1 quart can hanging down and can spray at any angle (the can type gun dont work upside down or at extreme angles as the straw comes out of the fluid) you dont have to use a long wand on airless - they make short wands or you can use no wand and just a spray tip
@@volks-jager How many watts do you need? Fluid film is kind of like ketshup ☺️. I have my eyes on a 650w airless one. Think it would be enough? Bosh pfs 5000 e is also a alternative. That one is 1200w, but have the reservoir hanging under the gun.
@@fnagdungdagint doesnt matter they are made to spray latex paint which is pretty thick. just get the type that takes a 1 or 5 gallon bucket. but make sure the fluid film is not super cold. fluid film sprays better the warmer it is. leave bucket near heater vent if you can and it will thin out. and make sure to mix it up really well. we actually had to spray some in a cold garage once so we warmed some up in a presto pot and it sprayed awesome. here is a clip on youtube of someone using an airless - ua-cam.com/users/shortsYaKK_uXKi8g he is using Woolwax, but that is the same thing as Fluid Film
With the cost of new vehicles manufactures could do a LOT more to prevent corrosion.
I couldn't agree more; but we gotta do what we gotta do!
I actually disagree. I think the dealerships drop the ball on this one. We can't expect manufactures to oil spray every single vehicle. Rust is not an issue everywhere. It has to be more localized.
@@Doomzdayxx manufactures could design self draining body panels and gaps, and not use foam between panels. It would make a huge difference.
I use a gallon of 30w bar and chain oil with a tube of red tacky grease ratio heated up in a crockpot ! Spray it on hot with a undercoating gun.
Sounds Delicious! Im sure it works great!
I loved your data, great stuff
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, maybe next time show using the tubes on the spray gun? I do this to all of my vehicles as well, never thought about pulling the wheel well liners, I will be doing that. Thanks!!!!
Wheel liners are an awesome addition to a vehicle in modern engineering. Why the heck they decided carpet instead of plastic baffles me. I'm sure it's cheaper and might kill some more road noise. As a detailer and clean freak, I hate those carpet liners. Oh well.
Awesome video! Thanks so much. I learned a lot. Great work!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you learned something.
This is beneficial as long as the place where you take it knows what they are doing, otherwise the brand new vehicles with the sensors can get messed up from this stuff.
Do you have a specific situation, make, model and sensor you are talking about? I have experience fluid filming all the big auto MFG and have never had an issue with messing up any sensors. Albeit i dont spray sensors just to spray them...
Wish I knew about this stuff long ago. I'm your neighbor have the same issues in MN. I used Blaster surface shield last year on my 22 Tacoma and like in your vid you can see where you missed. Both products will make your vehicle last until your engine or trany fail! With out it you know rotted out frame by 7-8 years.
Thanks for the comment! That surface shield is pretty good stuff, I wish they sold it in larger quantities. Similar to fluid film.
@@alecaagaard one and 5 gal buckets are available at Napa auto in Minnesota.
I do this same thing with my hondas living in Michigan but I have to crawl under them and that becomes a pain but it's sure does work.
It's definitely a PITA. I did it for 3 years doing 3 vehicles per year. Well worth the couple hours though. I don't even worry when I see the salt trucks out.
Ive been spraying fluid film for a few years on a older plow dump truck trying to save it from the salt.if it isnt washed off in the spring it mixes with the fluid film and makes a corrosive paste that isnt effective for the next winter. In years past we would use used transmission oil on our beach fishing rigs to protect them from the salt along the beaches and ocean spray.
Thanks for the comment, thats some good info. I have never ran into the corrosive paste issue. i would assume the rain water takes care of that on its own. Ive use the old transmission oil and diesel fuel mix on my older GMC and that held up really good actually. the frame on that still looks really good even though it now gets parked for winter. It had 4 winters with the trans/diesel mix.
Just sprayed my F250 this past weekend. Just wish it didn't smell so bad even days later 😅.
You betcha! the garage does have one heck of an odor for about a week when both of our vehicles get sprayed the same day. Even worse if theres a rain in the same day.
Sir, just an AWESOME VIDEO on protect a vehicle from salt and that nasty brine, GREAT JOB!!!
Thank you, Glad you liked it!
Excellent video.
Thank you, glad you liked it.
I used FF for years but switched to wool wax. It's made by FF and it's basically the same stuff but thicker and doesn't smell as much. You can also get it in black.
Thats good info, how did that go for you switching? I have thought about giving it a try but i wasnt sure how the two would mix. Did you have to pressure wash your frame before reapplying?
You don't have to do anything different , it's the same stuff made by the same company it's just thicker so it stays on better and it doesn't have that strong smell. One trick to using it would be to warm it up. we have a few bottles that fit the gun and fill them up and put them in a pan of warm water and take them one at a time use one fillit up put it in the water and get a warm one. We use the same gun as fluid film. @@alecaagaard
peanut oil goes on the exhaust. Get the exhaust hot and It bakes right on leaving a coating. It will look stained though. But better than rust.
Thats a very interesting tip. Thanks for sharing!
I use fluid film.. drive down highway at 60 mph in rain... film is gone from spray areas. I now use cosmoline on open areas first, when it dries, I use fluid film for all the nooks and crannies. I have a 3 foot flexible wand with 4 way nozzle to get inside holes.
That sounds like it works great for you. I have never had an issue with the film coming off after one rain storm, and clearly even when it does come off its not enough to cause rust issues. 🤝 Thanks for watching and the suggestion!
I think I'm going to be doing this to my car for the first time ever this year. I'm not sure what the best way of jacking it up so I can get underneath properly is going to be though. It looks like it's going to be very tricky for someone to do at home.
Get yourself some really nice jack stands that are very stable at 18-24" off the ground. Use a creaper if you have the height. I fluid filmed 3 vehicles/year on the ground for 4 years. You dont NEED a lift to do this, but it does make it much easier!
Appreciate the video !
Thanks for watching!
thank you for your video and advice
Thanks for watching!
Nice video fyi I use a a pancake it works fine but I don’t have a lift so it has more time to keep up. They have a 360 wand for the aerosol cans and I find it easier in the doors.
Awesome info. I have never tried a pancake but that's definitely going to be helpful for someone watching this video. The 360 wands are great for small places.
fluid film really atomizes good can see those clouds of it in video. I could maybe use face shield like you guys have also disposable beanies.
Absolutely! I have a hat dedicated to fluid filming! Thanks for the comment!
Aeesome stuff. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching!
On the fence on doing my 4Runner after reading that this stuff is hard on rubber bushings, boots, and electrical connections. Looks good, though.
I would not worry about that too much sir. I have only had one thing swell up on me and thats the lower rocker panel door seals on the edge. You can just barely see it from under the car. I have never had a bushing, boot or electrical connector show any negative signs from FF. I would go for it if i were you!!
I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado that I fluid filmed the same week I purchased it new from Holz Chevrolet in Wisconsin. When I went in for my first oil change they told me my vehicle was now void of any warranty protection. 7 years later now still no rust and no warranty so I'm glad I did it but for years worried about not any factory warranty.
That's awesome to hear you are having great results. In the future you can tell any dealership, including Holz that they are full of Bullsh!t! They cannot void an entire warranty because you fluid filmed the vehicle. They would need to prove that the fluid film caused the broken part. You can look this up for more info called Magnuson moss warranty act. 👍
Holz Chevrolet lied to you.
The dealer can’t void the warranty.
Are you saying factory rust warranty or motor and drive train warranty?
@@markperza384 Not sure about rust and corrosion warranty? They said I voided my factory warranty because the fluid film attracts dirt and would cause premature wear. The exact words from the service manager. Does not matter now because all the warranty is over from 2016. All I know is my truck is still rust free unlike many other 2016 Silverados.
Buy this man a dictionary. It is a nice video.
A Dictionary? How about a beer?
My guess is he is confused by your use of "liability". Hilariously he is the one who needs to use a dictionary. Which is usually how it is with people on the internet.
Great video! God Bless!
Thanks for the comment Michael!
Impressive!
Glad you liked the video.
If you're cheap like me, you can do what my grandfather used to get paid to do way back in the day, and spray used motor oil underneath. Stinks like hell, kind of messy to apply, but I kept an '07 Silverado 1500 alive with it until I sold it this year. Automakers will continue to cheap out on metals, so you've got to do something if you don't have a big money tree growing in your back yard, dropping $100 bills everywhere in piles. I've noticed that newer vehicles (Late 90's and up) keep the paint looking good for a lot longer than the older stuff (80's and back)... BUT, the stuff that counts - the FRAME, and suspension - rots away 10x faster than the older stuff ever did. I'm certain 2023 models don't stand a chance!
Anything is better than nothing! sounds like your recipe works good! I do agree with you about the frames, but we are a victim of our own asks. SOMEONE keeps telling MFGs. to give us max tow ratings on 1500s well into the double digits, so we get fully boxed frames and more which are much harder to keep from rusting out.
@@alecaagaard It's not the box style frame - it's the metal they use. Just take a peek underneath at anything that's just 4 years old or more that's run in road salt. If it gets driven in salt , then parked, it's REAL bad. The amount of rust is frightening. Stuff from the 40's to 70's didn't even rust that fast. Late 90's to early '00's Fords are the worst. I've never seen undercarriages rust up that bad in such a short amount of time. My buddy had an '04 Expedition that required torches for anything underneath ... and this was in 2010!
Thank you!! I’ve always wondered why people wash their undercarriage once FF is applied. You are just washing off what you are going to spend time and money reapplying. If the product works like it claims dirt, salt etc are not an issue and FF gets under all the crud and bonds to the metal. So why risk washing FF off while attempting to remove stuff that isn’t a problem anyway?
Exactly. Apply it well and don't wash it. Easy enough.
You can use pb over rust and it still protects
Thats awesome. Thanks for the comment
You should do a video of gown it holds up after a wash? When the roads get salted I have ocd and need to get that washed off
Awesome
thanks for watching!
spray those running board brackets heavily. all the salt saturated snow builds up right behind the front wheels and hangs there and really beats them up..
And inside too. I've had one running board replaced due to corrosion.
You do this work for us guys with only a home garage? I am near MKE. I do most of my own work, but I can't get fully under my truck in my attached garage. I have wanted this done to my 2011 ram that is still in great shape because it was from down south, had it up in WI for second year now. I had a chevy with swiss cheese frame that spent its whole life in WI, it was only 12 years old and was beyond repair.
Thanks for the interest. Check out my buddy, his business name is "Nomad autoworks LLC" on facebook. He is located in Janesville wi and does very thorough work similar to myself. Unfortunately im not set up for customers at the moment. I have a frame off resto turbo build im working on right now and all the summer toys are stored too.
@@alecaagaard will do! Have family over there.
Another spot to get is the bottom of the doors. Spray inside the doors using the door drains.
YUP and inside the tailgate and hood. Ive already done it on my truck&SUV and slightly glanced over it in this video.
I live in southern Wisconsin. How does on hire you to treat a vehicle? Business page? Great video. Thanks!
Check out my buddy, his business name is "Nomad autoworks LLC" on facebook. He is located in Janesville wi and does very thorough work similar to myself. Unfortunately im not set up for customers at the moment. I have a frame off resto turbo build im working on right now and all the summer toys are stored too.
I found out about fluid film too late. I bought my 2011 F150 in 2019. The frame looked spectacular when I bought it to replace my 2006 F150 that had severe frame rust thru. Unfortunately, the cab corners and inner rockers were already rusting on the 2011. I have sprayed it down with the ff to slow it down, but the rust won’t get better, only worse. The frame still looks great in comparison to the old truck. I just buy several of the aerosol cans for the yearly touch ups.
Unfortunately we all got to learn some how. This product has existed well longer than i have been alive and i didnt use it on my 2001 that i bought 9 years ago. At least with your knowledge you might save whatever comes after your 2011.
Also old auto trans fluid with 10% acetone is good to put inside the doors
Auto trans and diesel is something ive used before. Never heard of the Acetone. If it works, it works!
Thanks bud !
Where are you located? You're doing a fantastic job
I wish u could do my2023 Tacoma
Thanks BUT OMG *THAT MUSIC HAS TO GO ! ! ! !* *YIKES!!!*
We try.... low production value over here at the Aagaard Channel.
You need a fogger for the box frames and the guy that does mine uses black fluid film
no need for fog, it full blown rained fluid film inside that frame.
@@alecaagaard yep just think about what you said you were wasting fluid film with out using a fogger.
To late for me....had to replace the front and rear subframe (and associated parts) on my 2010 Legacy. That at 110,000 miles after commuting 30 miles into Boston for about 10 years.
Isnt it amazing how quickly a nice rust free car can get ruined by salt? 10 years ago my 2001 gmc sierra went from the cleanest truck i could buy to needing rocker panels in one snow storm.
I do like it , But when you have to do any work on the underside it's messy. Because I did a lot of lifts on trucks and when I seen it's been done I know itts going to be a long messy day .
It might be messy but i bet the rusted bolts are not a worry. :)
Nice work. So where should I bring my car for FF. I’m ready;)
What is the product ..... Thanks . Good job !
it is called fluid film.
Nice video but I don't happen to have access to a garage with a lift.
I did it for 3 years, 3 vehicles a year on jack stands. You dont need a lift, but it sure is nice!
Awesome video on rust protection!Where in Wisconsin are you located, and how much do you charge?
Thanks for watching, I dont do this for customers, but you can check out "Nomad Auto Works LLC" in south central WI he does FF and is very reasonable.
Great video. How long after you completed a vehicle were you able to drive? Also how much trouble do you think it would be if you had to do the complete vehicle with the spray cans ?
Again Thanks, Steve
Thanks for the comment sir, you can drive immediately afterwards there isn't much dry time. I don't think I would use the cans simply because of cost and time. I think they are $8 a can? That adds up fast. Coverage is definitely a downfall too. But, if it's all you can do, it's definitely better than nothing!
My dad use to do this to all his plowing equipment and when he retired, he left me some of the fluid film tools, what are you changing to do a job like this? I might get me a pal and do some other peoples cars too... Just curious.... TIA!
I dont do this for others at the moment, but ive seen price ranges from 5-900 for initial coats depending on vehicle size! could be very lucrative