I suspect he didn't work for Audi or BMW since you can't touch anything without breaking some plastics 😂 What a friggin nightmare anyway, I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemies 😂
Fun shit, what a great video. I can relate to these DIY projects that just end up as an nightmare. Last time i service my Fox 38, i hammered directly on the threaded ends of the air spring to get the lowers of. I damaged the lower end of the thread and i used 2 hours fixing it so it could be put back to together. Live and learn...
Park Tool’s RC-1 that competes with Loctite 680, has served me well for about 6 months till creak started to come back. I heated up the CSU with a heat gun and then laid a line of compound down. Heated/applied each stanchion/tube separately so it’d be at maximum temp. Left the fork to cure 3 days upside down. Loctite 609 probably would be better as it’s a bit thinner viscosity to weep better.
I made a bullet tool by cutting off the end of a highlighter and the correct width. It didnt stick into the shaft so you had to line it up, but it worked
The problem of crown to stantions or steerer tube creaking is the price cutting from Fox and RS. Crown are anodized and then borred down to diameter, but then not anodozed againg to cover the raw surface where they press in the steerer and stanrions. With time and especialy with forces generated by long travel and heavy/agresive riders the corosion is happening on the unanodosed surface and creaking starting as a symptom of surface corosion and fretening of material and losening the contact between stantions/steerer and the crowns. Ohlins and the old Marzochhi(Italian made) forks never exibit any of those problems as they anodize the hidden surfaces and this keeps them protected. Blame the mass costs cutting from mass marketed over priced RS and FOX for this If this was happening in auto industry it will be a big scandal and recall for safety concerns.
I have accumulated many shaft clamps and clamp shims over the years but I never use the exact appropriate size but when I do find the right size it's usually the next day 😅
I have a question, does the the 38 x2 runs more open on compression knobs than old 38. I meant instead of running 5 clicks out x2 run on 8 out with better damping?
I did the loctite trick on my Zeb and it surprisingly worked very well. Didn't totally silence it but it was 90% better than before. New CSU fitted under warranty though
YO! I have 37mm offset csu for my Fox 38 grip2 factory that I am planning to install to replace my current 46mm offset (not sure the steerer tube length but it was new from a 2022 Levo pro S2 and came to the shop as that length). Anyways I will have an extra 38 kashima csu with no damage or creaks looking for a home. I just don’t have the money or the skill to do the swap, and I hoped to get the entire 200 hour service done during the swap. I’m also considering getting a gripx drop in. Or a gripx2 (not sure I need gripx2)
Good vid even if it didn't work, last fork I had creaking was a talas 36 like 12 yrs ago I tried something similar with epoxy but it never cured, I wanted to make my own clamp style crown but that kind of project is never worth it all things considered.
Man, this Fox service stuff is crazy. I will stick to my Manitou crap for home service. Nowhere in the manual does it require torching anything. And the negative spring does not rely on dimples, it relies on the fully depressed valve to open up both air chambers for pumping.
screw the loc-tite as it's for threads. Instead press out the stanchions, sand/etch down the press out area and apply JB weld epoxy and never deal with it again. Then the fork gets demoted to only trail/commuter riding.
Bro at this point just get a 15t press to fix your creaks properly. Also removing the footstud on the 38 airspring is enought to access the whole sleeve and clean grease from the neg. No need at all to remove the sealhead.
A man and his torch with a helping of a can do attitude. 🔥🧑🚒🚒
Dude, you are getting wilder and wilder. WTF? :D These are just bike parts don't have to be that brutal.
I suspect he didn't work for Audi or BMW since you can't touch anything without breaking some plastics 😂
What a friggin nightmare anyway, I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemies 😂
Glad you still alive!
Close one
Fun shit, what a great video. I can relate to these DIY projects that just end up as an nightmare. Last time i service my Fox 38, i hammered directly on the threaded ends of the air spring to get the lowers of. I damaged the lower end of the thread and i used 2 hours fixing it so it could be put back to together. Live and learn...
Love your styles man..
Carries a hint of myth busters😂😂😂
Miss that show
Park Tool’s RC-1 that competes with Loctite 680, has served me well for about 6 months till creak started to come back. I heated up the CSU with a heat gun and then laid a line of compound down. Heated/applied each stanchion/tube separately so it’d be at maximum temp. Left the fork to cure 3 days upside down. Loctite 609 probably would be better as it’s a bit thinner viscosity to weep better.
A P100 respirator won't do anything, they are for particles not chemical fumes. Pink for Particles/ Charcoal for Chemicals
I made a bullet tool by cutting off the end of a highlighter and the correct width. It didnt stick into the shaft so you had to line it up, but it worked
The problem of crown to stantions or steerer tube creaking is the price cutting from Fox and RS.
Crown are anodized and then borred down to diameter, but then not anodozed againg to cover the raw surface where they press in the steerer and stanrions.
With time and especialy with forces generated by long travel and heavy/agresive riders the corosion is happening on the unanodosed surface and creaking starting as a symptom of surface corosion and fretening of material and losening the contact between stantions/steerer and the crowns.
Ohlins and the old Marzochhi(Italian made) forks never exibit any of those problems as they anodize the hidden surfaces and this keeps them protected.
Blame the mass costs cutting from mass marketed over priced RS and FOX for this
If this was happening in auto industry it will be a big scandal and recall for safety concerns.
🧐. Makes sense. It rains bad here. I’m 180 mm fork. 230 lb guy 50 lb bike =creek
I have accumulated many shaft clamps and clamp shims over the years but I never use the exact appropriate size but when I do find the right size it's usually the next day 😅
I have a question, does the the 38 x2 runs more open on compression knobs than old 38. I meant instead of running 5 clicks out x2 run on 8 out with better damping?
It has more range in x2. I would run grip 2 closed and x2 half way
Good question
I did the loctite trick on my Zeb and it surprisingly worked very well. Didn't totally silence it but it was 90% better than before. New CSU fitted under warranty though
Red lock tight ?
@OtterMTBtech Loctite 638 is what I used. Didn't cure the creak totally but enough to not be noticeable when on the bike.
Dood, don’t sell these to anyone 😅
It just needs new steerer
YO! I have 37mm offset csu for my Fox 38 grip2 factory that I am planning to install to replace my current 46mm offset (not sure the steerer tube length but it was new from a 2022 Levo pro S2 and came to the shop as that length). Anyways I will have an extra 38 kashima csu with no damage or creaks looking for a home. I just don’t have the money or the skill to do the swap, and I hoped to get the entire 200 hour service done during the swap. I’m also considering getting a gripx drop in. Or a gripx2 (not sure I need gripx2)
are these problems also on the 36?
Pretty much all aging forks can have slack in the crown. Like old people in general 😛
My 36 creaks after one season
@@clubtouge1052 damn thats unfortunate
Just send it off to fox lol
Good vid even if it didn't work, last fork I had creaking was a talas 36 like 12 yrs ago I tried something similar with epoxy but it never cured, I wanted to make my own clamp style crown but that kind of project is never worth it all things considered.
Not worth the cost for sure
Guy is going to kill himself in a firey blaze! 😂
Man, this Fox service stuff is crazy. I will stick to my Manitou crap for home service. Nowhere in the manual does it require torching anything. And the negative spring does not rely on dimples, it relies on the fully depressed valve to open up both air chambers for pumping.
🤔
Mine does the same drives me freaking crazy sending to fox and just buying a new crown this is to much lol
Best suspension tuner on the internet? There I said it!
Hack*
Suntour uses gear oil to seal air chamber.
Blue liquid labs sell the press tools
For science 👌
screw the loc-tite as it's for threads. Instead press out the stanchions, sand/etch down the press out area and apply JB weld epoxy and never deal with it again. Then the fork gets demoted to only trail/commuter riding.
JB weld 😎
Bro at this point just get a 15t press to fix your creaks properly. Also removing the footstud on the 38 airspring is enought to access the whole sleeve and clean grease from the neg. No need at all to remove the sealhead.
Where do you buy the adapters I have a press
@ Oliver at blueliquidlabs machines whole sets, or you can take measurements and have them lathed locally
I emailed him no response only person in America
You need to ride them as hard as you can when they have warranty and just send it for a new csu
Invest in a heat gun. You're playing fire with oil
Loctite break down with heat so probably useless heating it
Someone buy this dude a heat gun
I have one