Wow, for the work you are wanting to do pulling that whole rear cross member out was a chore. So much easier to slide the drive shafts out a ways and leave the rear wheels, brake lines and other stuff in there! Engine, trans and diff slide right out on a dolly! Goes back in a lot easier too! Glad you have it out. They are really fun to clean up, rebuild and make pretty! Many corvair parts places around...should not have any trouble finding parts. Just did my 63 2 years ago.
I used to pull my drive train using a skateboard, spare tire and two jacks. Now I use a dolly these days but the skateboard is always an option. The quickest I pulled one after all connections were made was 20 minutes. But that was after doing it 3 times that day. The last one was to reverse the clutch disc I installed backwards. Good times.
every one I've done, I just pulled the engine and left the transaxle in. Most of mine were 65 and up, but i did have a 63 greenbrier that I never really had to do much to. but then again, that was back in the 70's
I have done about 100 engine pulls/reinstalls and we always left the transaxle in ( even if we pulled it later) . It balances well on the floor jack that way -- right on the bellhousing and the only thing you need to do is to is stabilize it laterally so it doesn't slide off the jack.
I’m planning on taking the same approach (since I also need to do a ton of maintenance), but to try using my cherry picker to lift the body off, then once cleared drop it back down on stands
After doing this myself, I would recommend dropping the engine and trans first, and the subframe later. Especially if you have an LSD like I do, since it's harder to roll any way but straight. Using a lift is a great idea! I just recently picked one up, and will use it in the future.
Note for future adventures its way easier to pull the axels and drop the three engine and trans mount nuts and the engine comes right out with the trans.
U should consult a the nearest club chapter of Corvair Society of America and Clark's Corvair Parts Shelburne Falls, Mass. for best advice/assistance and remanufactured parts/materials... Itz NOT a HONDA!
Clark's sponsored a few videos for me actually. Great company, making parts support for Corvairs better than even the parts support for my Ford trucks.
I don't think the 63 had a choke cable. Chevy had problems with old ladies using the choke cable inside the car to hang their purses on. Your engine looks to be a 64 or newer, or at least the cooling fan is as it is straight blades, the 145ci (63 and earlier) used a curved bladed fan. If the engine is a 64 or newer it's 164ci. You're going about pulling the motor all wrong. Pull the axles away from the transaxle then the front mounts at the front of the transaxle, then the rear engine mount. Pulling the sub frame out makes lots more work, and you may have alignment issues.
Interesting on the choke, haha. I have looked at the pistons and heads, and front what I can tell it's a 102. Probably just had a fan swap at some point. The posi transaxle is 64.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam I owned a few Corvairs, mostly in the 60s and 70s. By the 80s it was getting harder to find one that didn't leak oil from every seal. I knew how to work on them, but there were better options for used cars. With the new seals being silicone its much easier to keep the oil in the engine where it does the most good. My first Corvair was a 63 Monza 2 door 4 speed, with the 102hp engine like you have. Nice little car and gave me no problems. Wish I still had the 64 convert, nice car, red with white top, 4 speed, and the 110hp motor. Went pretty good. My last Corvair was a 65 Corsa with the 140hp 4 carb 4 speed engine. It gave small block V8s a good run, often beating them at the stop-light drags. It was quick off the line, plenty of traction with the rear engine. It also handled great, I put 13" TA Radials on it with Red Rider shocks all the way around. I swear I had it on 2 wheels once! Those tires had grip. Went great in ice and snow too. One of the best cars I've ever owned for ice and snow that wasn't a 4wd, I've owned air cooled VWs that didn't go any better in the ice and snow. I'll keep tabs on your rebuild. Brings back many memories of my youth.
You can find Corvairs in much better shape (without the rot) running and driving, for cheaper than what you would pay to fix up the car you have here. It's basically a parts car. I Mean if you got it for free and you like messing about...ok...but for the amount of money to rebuild the engine and then put it back in a rotted body like this = ?
>clearly i have poor financial planning skills >i enjoy the feeling of saving it from the junkyard and knowing one more corvair is back on the road >when something goes wrong I'll already know how the car is put together (HUGE plus) >it came with ALL the options i want and I made sure it ran before buying >imo the body is perfect for a winter beater, and no one can tell me I "ruined" it Yeah, it's a lot of work to put it back on the road. But i wanted a reliable beater corvair and that's what I'm building!
Luckily the apron is not structural. There's a reason Clark's sells replacement panels: the car can have body rust and still be safe. That is, if you think a car built before seat belts or crumple zones is safe in the first place.
It's great that you have your dad helping!
Wow, for the work you are wanting to do pulling that whole rear cross member out was a chore. So much easier to slide the drive shafts out a ways and leave the rear wheels, brake lines and other stuff in there! Engine, trans and diff slide right out on a dolly! Goes back in a lot easier too! Glad you have it out. They are really fun to clean up, rebuild and make pretty! Many corvair parts places around...should not have any trouble finding parts. Just did my 63 2 years ago.
It will be going in suspension first then drive train! I had to restore the suspension and brakes anyway, but would pull them in two steps next time
I'll be paying close attention, I have a '69 with an otherwise clean engine needing better sealing to keep the exhaust fumes out of the cabin.
Looks like a fun project. Hope parts are available and affordable.
Super helpful thanks my guy
I used to pull my drive train using a skateboard, spare tire and two jacks. Now I use a dolly these days but the skateboard is always an option. The quickest I pulled one after all connections were made was 20 minutes. But that was after doing it 3 times that day. The last one was to reverse the clutch disc I installed backwards. Good times.
Yeah, that sounds like it'd get ya!
every one I've done, I just pulled the engine and left the transaxle in. Most of mine were 65 and up, but i did have a 63 greenbrier that I never really had to do much to. but then again, that was back in the 70's
Yeah, nothing about that rear suspension was good to drive on, haha.
I have done about 100 engine pulls/reinstalls and we always left the transaxle in ( even if we pulled it later) . It balances well on the floor jack that way -- right on the bellhousing and the only thing you need to do is to is stabilize it laterally so it doesn't slide off the jack.
I’m planning on taking the same approach (since I also need to do a ton of maintenance), but to try using my cherry picker to lift the body off, then once cleared drop it back down on stands
After doing this myself, I would recommend dropping the engine and trans first, and the subframe later. Especially if you have an LSD like I do, since it's harder to roll any way but straight. Using a lift is a great idea! I just recently picked one up, and will use it in the future.
0:56 let's drain the coolant... :)
More videos please
Almost done with the tear down video! Life got in the way. Should see it next week.
Man that thing is filthy :D
Just wait for the next video. A rodent spine fell out of the shroud
Note for future adventures its way easier to pull the axels and drop the three engine and trans mount nuts and the engine comes right out with the trans.
Yep, I will be reinstalling it in two parts
I'm shocked the engine damper-door thermostats appear to still be functional, they're almost always bad by now.
How do those work? I know there is a rod that pushes the door open, but what governs that rod’s actuation.
5:44 They built 'em better back then.
Corvairs were pure my ney pits, USA competition to Porsche 😂
I cant believe you have so much work to do on this car!!! 🤪
Where's Nikki noodle??? Chicken cam???
Nikki was not too involved in this one. Chickens are in their run!
U should consult a
the nearest club chapter of
Corvair
Society of America
and Clark's
Corvair Parts
Shelburne Falls,
Mass. for best advice/assistance
and remanufactured
parts/materials...
Itz NOT a HONDA!
Clark's sponsored a few videos for me actually. Great company, making parts support for Corvairs better than even the parts support for my Ford trucks.
Do you still have 4 speed transmission
Yeah
I don't think the 63 had a choke cable. Chevy had problems with old ladies using the choke cable inside the car to hang their purses on. Your engine looks to be a 64 or newer, or at least the cooling fan is as it is straight blades, the 145ci (63 and earlier) used a curved bladed fan. If the engine is a 64 or newer it's 164ci.
You're going about pulling the motor all wrong. Pull the axles away from the transaxle then the front mounts at the front of the transaxle, then the rear engine mount. Pulling the sub frame out makes lots more work, and you may have alignment issues.
Interesting on the choke, haha. I have looked at the pistons and heads, and front what I can tell it's a 102. Probably just had a fan swap at some point. The posi transaxle is 64.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam I owned a few Corvairs, mostly in the 60s and 70s. By the 80s it was getting harder to find one that didn't leak oil from every seal. I knew how to work on them, but there were better options for used cars.
With the new seals being silicone its much easier to keep the oil in the engine where it does the most good. My first Corvair was a 63 Monza 2 door 4 speed, with the 102hp engine like you have. Nice little car and gave me no problems. Wish I still had the 64 convert, nice car, red with white top, 4 speed, and the 110hp motor. Went pretty good.
My last Corvair was a 65 Corsa with the 140hp 4 carb 4 speed engine. It gave small block V8s a good run, often beating them at the stop-light drags. It was quick off the line, plenty of traction with the rear engine. It also handled great, I put 13" TA Radials on it with Red Rider shocks all the way around. I swear I had it on 2 wheels once! Those tires had grip.
Went great in ice and snow too. One of the best cars I've ever owned for ice and snow that wasn't a 4wd, I've owned air cooled VWs that didn't go any better in the ice and snow.
I'll keep tabs on your rebuild. Brings back many memories of my youth.
Haha! DRAIN THE COOLANT????
...Hey, dude u sure you know WHAT the Corvair WAS and how it was "kept cool"???
"Mister Angie"
🙏
You can find Corvairs in much better shape (without the rot) running and driving, for cheaper than what you would pay to fix up the car you have here. It's basically a parts car. I Mean if you got it for free and you like messing about...ok...but for the amount of money to rebuild the engine and then put it back in a rotted body like this = ?
>clearly i have poor financial planning skills
>i enjoy the feeling of saving it from the junkyard and knowing one more corvair is back on the road
>when something goes wrong I'll already know how the car is put together (HUGE plus)
>it came with ALL the options i want and I made sure it ran before buying
>imo the body is perfect for a winter beater, and no one can tell me I "ruined" it
Yeah, it's a lot of work to put it back on the road. But i wanted a reliable beater corvair and that's what I'm building!
Why didn’t you just pull the engine out
Wanted to see if i could
That car is no longer safe to drive. Too much rust.
There are holes all over the body.
I'm not trying to be a jerk.
Luckily the apron is not structural. There's a reason Clark's sells replacement panels: the car can have body rust and still be safe. That is, if you think a car built before seat belts or crumple zones is safe in the first place.
I’m thinking of adding subframe connectors. Just a thought.