Tamiya has come a long way with the materials used for lower hull and suspension, the leopard 2a6 was already expensive but took a fair amount of money to make it more reliable,,the plastic suspension arms weren’t up to carting metal wheels and tracks ect ect,,the Abram tank good improvement over the leopard also ..hope to grab one of these soon ..great tips feller fantastic build also…
I agree 100% this is by far the best engineered Tamiya tank yet, I really hope they keep making new ones. Glad you enjoyed the build and good luck on your future Centurion build! feel free to email me @ pitstainhobbies@gmail.com for a free channel sticker.
Man you wasted no time! Thanks for the tec tips I'm sure they will come in handy. I recieved all the things to start my Centurion. Just have to finish my M-7 Priest first. Nearly there. Gonna need a bit of space for this one.
Great video. I like to see the build right from the start.👍 But I got one question: how old are your screwdrivers? We don't write "W.-Germany" on our products after the wall had fallen down.🤔. But for ober 30 years they are in a very good shape👏 If your good tools don't help, I can recomment the Tamiya screwdriver set. These fit oerfect to the screws in their kits😉
Hi, I'm at the tyre bit. From the diagram it looks like need to cut tyres with flat bit facing down. There's a long sticky out bit on one side and a short sticky out big on other.. Little unsure from diagram which side to cut n pull.. Sorry I'm a total nube to this, I think it's the short sticky out bit, but don't wanna cock it up. Do remeber? Or does it matter?
P. S you will see by my last comment being 4 weeks ago. I dont get much time to escape to my garage/man cave 😁 slow progress but hoping to get it built before winter.
A lot of Tamiya screws are JCS - indicated by a dot on the screw head next to the slot. Worth buying Japanese drivers made for these screws rather than Phillips or Pozi. Tamiya used to make a couple of nice ones with black handles - not sure they still do
Thanks Alison, might be an excuse to buy those vessel screwdrivers finally, I didn't notice many dots on screws but think I saw a dot on a few of them.
Looks like they call them JIS these days, rather than Japanese Cross Head we used to refer to back when we were messing with Japanese hi-fi components - anyway, looks like Tamiya still do Screwdriver No.1 and Screwdriver No.2. Bless…
Because none were provided, I assume they just figure they'll get painted and then hidden by the side skirts, but for someone not running skirts I can imagine they may not be pleased.
One day I'm hoping to build this tank. Have a taigen panzer 4 and taigen kinda sucks compared to tamiya. Tamiya engineering is miles ahead of taigen. So much so that I was thinking of getting the hooben t55.
Taigen make some of the best RTR tanks, but the detail and the joy of the build is definitely Tamiya, please don't waste money on Hooben they make the lowest quality tanks on the market
@@Cormano980 I have no direct experience with the 1/10 Hooben stuff, but if their 1/16 is any indication they may be problems. Better to join the rcuniverse or rctankwarfare uk forums and ask there.
Yes Japanese Industrial Standard, very similar to Phillips but slightly different, most likely time to cam out and damage the screws would be removing very tight screws with a Phillips driver as opposed to a JIS screwdriver.
I try to detail some specific steps if I think they may be tricky to do, there is a balance between doing too long and too short a video but I do appreciate the feedback and will try to do a bit more detail if that's what people prefer, and thank you for watching!
Gotta support a fellow Georgian. Coastal lowcountry here. Great vid.
Thanks Scott, I'm in the bowels of the I-285 perimeter.
Excellent advice thanks, though it has cost me more money with buying all the stuff you have recommended :) start my centurion tank build soon.
Glad I can be of assistance and my apologies to your finances...
@pitstainhobbies I'm a noob to model building so nice to get all the correct tools :). My little rachet wrench arrives today 👍
Tamiya has come a long way with the materials used for lower hull and suspension, the leopard 2a6 was already expensive but took a fair amount of money to make it more reliable,,the plastic suspension arms weren’t up to carting metal wheels and tracks ect ect,,the Abram tank good improvement over the leopard also ..hope to grab one of these soon ..great tips feller fantastic build also…
I agree 100% this is by far the best engineered Tamiya tank yet, I really hope they keep making new ones. Glad you enjoyed the build and good luck on your future Centurion build! feel free to email me @ pitstainhobbies@gmail.com for a free channel sticker.
Man you wasted no time! Thanks for the tec tips I'm sure they will come in handy. I recieved all the things to start my Centurion. Just have to finish my M-7 Priest first. Nearly there. Gonna need a bit of space for this one.
You won't regret getting it, this is a lovely tank.
I want this kit~!! 🤩🤩
It's a great kit, you won't regret it.
That's funny. Went to Andy's Wednesday, the 2 models I bought were at my house before I got home on Saturday! Either Arizona post is wicked fast.
AHHQ ships really quick, glad your stuff arrived fast.
The vise idea is great but foe extra protection hold a couple pieces balsa in the jaws then close them
Solid tip right there!
Great video. I like to see the build right from the start.👍
But I got one question: how old are your screwdrivers? We don't write "W.-Germany" on our products after the wall had fallen down.🤔. But for ober 30 years they are in a very good shape👏
If your good tools don't help, I can recomment the Tamiya screwdriver set. These fit oerfect to the screws in their kits😉
My Heyco screwdrivers are only a few months old, also my Wiha screwdrivers fit fantastic but I also have some Vessel JIS screwdrivers on the way.
Hi, I'm at the tyre bit. From the diagram it looks like need to cut tyres with flat bit facing down. There's a long sticky out bit on one side and a short sticky out big on other.. Little unsure from diagram which side to cut n pull.. Sorry I'm a total nube to this, I think it's the short sticky out bit, but don't wanna cock it up. Do remeber? Or does it matter?
P. S you will see by my last comment being 4 weeks ago. I dont get much time to escape to my garage/man cave 😁 slow progress but hoping to get it built before winter.
I just rip the center flash out by hand no need to break out the hobby blade for them in my opinion.
@@PitstainHobbies cheers 👍 will tackle them tomorrow.
@DevHog have fun, I love the rubber tires.
A lot of Tamiya screws are JCS - indicated by a dot on the screw head next to the slot. Worth buying Japanese drivers made for these screws rather than Phillips or Pozi. Tamiya used to make a couple of nice ones with black handles - not sure they still do
Thanks Alison, might be an excuse to buy those vessel screwdrivers finally, I didn't notice many dots on screws but think I saw a dot on a few of them.
Looks like they call them JIS these days, rather than Japanese Cross Head we used to refer to back when we were messing with Japanese hi-fi components - anyway, looks like Tamiya still do Screwdriver No.1 and Screwdriver No.2. Bless…
Hey bro went on your advice and bought it 1760 NZ dollars ouch time ..but looking forward to it
Awesome Geoff, it is a very nice build.
Why don´t you have your hub caps on your return rollers?
Because none were provided, I assume they just figure they'll get painted and then hidden by the side skirts, but for someone not running skirts I can imagine they may not be pleased.
when greasing the trany you could put some power to the motor and bingo instant greased gears
Good idea in the normal world but in mine I would end up with schmoo in my eyes...LOL
Hey Pit Stain, when building my centurion, all the road wheels and idler wheels seem to rotate at a different speed/resistance... is this normal?
Are you referring to running the track off the ground?
@@PitstainHobbies no i just have the lower hull in my hand and i’m spinnn g the wheels. some spin really easily, some barely spin
@@sheepmasterrace did you install ball bearings?
@@PitstainHobbies i did everything according to the manual. don’t know if those are ball bearings or not… it’s my first tank!
@blacksheep7874 it likely won't be an issue unless there is alot or spinning resistance also the transmissions need to break in for a few minutes.
One day I'm hoping to build this tank. Have a taigen panzer 4 and taigen kinda sucks compared to tamiya. Tamiya engineering is miles ahead of taigen. So much so that I was thinking of getting the hooben t55.
Taigen make some of the best RTR tanks, but the detail and the joy of the build is definitely Tamiya, please don't waste money on Hooben they make the lowest quality tanks on the market
@@PitstainHobbies sorry to hijack, what's your take on the 1/10 Hooben tanks ?
@@Cormano980 I have no direct experience with the 1/10 Hooben stuff, but if their 1/16 is any indication they may be problems. Better to join the rcuniverse or rctankwarfare uk forums and ask there.
@@PitstainHobbies good point, I heard some bad things and for the price, you can get a top quality 1/16
JIS screws?
Yes Japanese Industrial Standard, very similar to Phillips but slightly different, most likely time to cam out and damage the screws would be removing very tight screws with a Phillips driver as opposed to a JIS screwdriver.
Can we not see how you build the parts, not just a jump to the parts already built?
It may take more videos but so be it.
I try to detail some specific steps if I think they may be tricky to do, there is a balance between doing too long and too short a video but I do appreciate the feedback and will try to do a bit more detail if that's what people prefer, and thank you for watching!
Your wife bought the B-7000 for her crafting and you stole it, you better put that back when you done or face the consequences!!!
LOL normally you would be correct but she realized she hates crafting once she got the glue and bedazzle beads for a project.