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3dprintingweirdness
South Africa
Приєднався 5 бер 2021
The easiest way to level the Ender 3 V2 accurately!
GCODE files download link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803058
Finally got my first video up. Let me know what you guys think...
Lots of credit goes to CHEP for introducing me to the solution presented in this video! Please check out his video if you haven't already as he shows the actual levelling process in more detail: ua-cam.com/video/_EfWVUJjBdA/v-deo.html. My hope is, however, that my video explained a bit more about what the underlying problem is with the traditional way of bed levelling and why this solution works so well. I also made a few changes to his gcode according to what I've found to work best. Please also remember the tips I gave in this video, as they are crucial to make this method work!
Even though I rewrote the script like 7 times to make everything as clear as possible, conveying these ideas was still quite tricky for me, so let me know if I can explain anything further.
Also, I'm open to any critique! Let me know if the scripted voice-over didn't work for you, if my accent is weird or if you disagree with something I said :)
Some behind the scenes/rant about making this video - it was shot on a Huawei Mate 10 and the voice-over was recorded on the same device (although I put bed covers and any other material I could find against all the walls in the room to minimise reverb - wish you guys could see this!). Setting up the blue led strip behind the wood panel was a pain but I think well worth it. Getting all the light to not overexpose some part of my skin or underexpose some part of the printer or reflect off some part of the scene was quite a challenge - especially when just working with normal house lights. The editing took ages but I think what took the most time was writing the script. I don’t have a knack for explaining things, as I tend to overthink most of the stuff and focus too much on some small detail - so I rewrote it so many times to get to the one in the video. And with English not actually being my native language (Afrikaans is - yes, the one you always see at the top in google translate), I had to read it like another 100 times to get it flawless!
Music credit:
Werq by Kevin MacLeod
Link: filmmusic.io/song/4616-werq
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license
Newer Wave by Kevin MacLeod
Link: filmmusic.io/song/7016-newer-wave
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license
Finally got my first video up. Let me know what you guys think...
Lots of credit goes to CHEP for introducing me to the solution presented in this video! Please check out his video if you haven't already as he shows the actual levelling process in more detail: ua-cam.com/video/_EfWVUJjBdA/v-deo.html. My hope is, however, that my video explained a bit more about what the underlying problem is with the traditional way of bed levelling and why this solution works so well. I also made a few changes to his gcode according to what I've found to work best. Please also remember the tips I gave in this video, as they are crucial to make this method work!
Even though I rewrote the script like 7 times to make everything as clear as possible, conveying these ideas was still quite tricky for me, so let me know if I can explain anything further.
Also, I'm open to any critique! Let me know if the scripted voice-over didn't work for you, if my accent is weird or if you disagree with something I said :)
Some behind the scenes/rant about making this video - it was shot on a Huawei Mate 10 and the voice-over was recorded on the same device (although I put bed covers and any other material I could find against all the walls in the room to minimise reverb - wish you guys could see this!). Setting up the blue led strip behind the wood panel was a pain but I think well worth it. Getting all the light to not overexpose some part of my skin or underexpose some part of the printer or reflect off some part of the scene was quite a challenge - especially when just working with normal house lights. The editing took ages but I think what took the most time was writing the script. I don’t have a knack for explaining things, as I tend to overthink most of the stuff and focus too much on some small detail - so I rewrote it so many times to get to the one in the video. And with English not actually being my native language (Afrikaans is - yes, the one you always see at the top in google translate), I had to read it like another 100 times to get it flawless!
Music credit:
Werq by Kevin MacLeod
Link: filmmusic.io/song/4616-werq
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license
Newer Wave by Kevin MacLeod
Link: filmmusic.io/song/7016-newer-wave
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license
Переглядів: 136 551
anyone facing the same issue? my pause button display as print, and it will just automatically move to the next point without stopping? ender 3 v2 v1.3.3
I'm unable to stop the nozzle it just goes around with out stopping. I don't even have a second to press pause and when I do nothing happens
im having this problem where my knob to level the bed just stops when i try leveling it down.
From a fellow South African, it was so cool looking for a Gcode instead of disabling of steppers to see that this was one of the top hit videos, well done dude!!! #3dprintingSA
None of this helped these people are lying
This worked well for me, thanks! It's much faster than manually moving the extruder around too.
Sigh...Why is everything with 3d so f-cking complicated?
i tried using the gcode in the description, and my printer was not giving me the option to pause the print once the nozzel was at the right height. anyway i could fix that?
uhm it's been 2 years where your 3d print bushing bro!
Good idea and well explained, though the music is a challenge.
I found your g-code very helpful. However, when running, it always takes the nozzle back to the "home" corner of the bed (lower left). It goes to each subsequent corner, but never stays there. It always returns to the home corner before pausing. Has anyone else had this issue? I can still test with the paper, but I have to be quick before it heads "home". thanks
Yeah, I also have this issue
Really wish there were tags and step by step.
how do i transfer the file to the printer
that's great and all, but with the hand sanitizer would it clean of any fillament that is stuck on the 3d printer?
No but it cleans your hands
@@benedwards5190 thanks
I got excited and yelled " Tis guy is a genius"!!! Then I tried it and I think its from firmware from a while back........ Anyone know where to get an updated gcode for this? I have firmware version 1.0.7.... after each "print" it only pauses briefly and then returns to home immediately, doesn't give me any time to adjust
Just upgrade your firmware to Jyers v2.0.1 It has a built in option to do this.
I went to mriscoc right after that.... Now I'm using the sonic pad so all is well. But the way this guy set up just the factory marlin firmware he needs all the credit for people who don"t want to upgrade!
After couple of big failures with my print I used the move function instead of desabling the steppers The lvlong was perfect Thanks alot for that information Didnt even think about that
ALRIGHT SIR, you just earned yourself a like and a sub. The Gcode file was extremely helpful and made the process a lot easier. Additionally, the suggestion to get paper under the extruder while maintaining friction was exactly what I needed to get the PLA to stick to the plate. seriously, thank you from the bottom of my heart.
i cleaned my plate with isopropal alchohal and my prints wont stick. should i use hand sanitizer specifically because the residue serves the same purpose as glue used by others?
I saw your video on this subject, i tried the gcode works for front left then back left it raises up and beeps at me 2nd issue back left i cant even get a piece of paper under the nozel with even the knob completely tight. any suggestions?
it doesn't work on my ender 3 v2. if i click print it goes to the place but instantly goes back to the starting position
The good thing is that the print head will always be in the same position at all 4 corners. Great video, thank you.
in both Gcodes i see the pause print option however my printer doesnt stop/pause. does anyone know how to fix?
For some reason my printer slowly moves back after it should stop. How can i fix that?
Before I found this video, I had almost rage quit. I was going crazy trying to level my bed, sometimes making 10 attempts to level. This makes it easy enough to do in one try. Thank you for the help!
What you are suggesting works, however, I personally preheat, home and using the move option on the printer to move the printer to say X and y 20;20, 20;200, 200;200, 200;20, 110;110.... I do this with the z drive at 0.1 or 0.2mm (depending on the feeler Guage I'm using), I di this 3 or 4 times, and it's done..... maybe my way is wrong, but it works for me... I have many years of experience in the cnc field, routers, lasers, lathes, mills, and now printers. I'm new to 3D printing, and initially, tramming was my biggest issue. Now, if my print fails, the first thing I do is tram, and the process takes less than 5 minutes. I last trammed 100 to 150 prints ago.
My problem is everyone's glass bed is clean and i cant get the old filament residue off mine
Works perfectly on Voxelab Aquila X2 many thanks.
You should tram the bed to the same parameters as printing; this includes heating the nozzle and bed to printing temps. The expansion of brass and the bed from heat is sufficient enough to undo the tramming process done on a cold system. As for everything else, its excellent. You have to be careful when using disable steppers
wont work for me iv tried both files and it wont stop when i try pause it just goes back to home some reason, :(
this is amazing gcode, so far my first layer using this g code is going great. This almost completely eliminates the need for an 'automatic' bed level like BLtouch.
Thank you for this! Been fighting with mine for about an hour (and the kids because they wanted to see something) when I came across this video. However, on mine, which is using the 1.0.7 firmware, the head resets to 0,0 after reaching the corner. I have to be super fast, or catch it at the next time it loops around. Don't know what's up with that.
Did you ever find a fix for that?
Thank you so much! you've made leveling that much quicker, accurate and easier for me! 🤩🤩
just turn down the music a little bit
That south African accent Lol
My ender 3 v2 neo goes back to the first corner when paused, any solution ?
Holy Crap man thank you!!!! Hopefully it still works well because I have been looking for a "simpler" way to level the bed!!!
Hello, please help, I have an Ender 3 S1 pro printer. I changed the nozzle and when I try to level the bed, it lowers the extruder and the nozzle sticks against the bed and makes a very ugly noise, the cr touch works, I put a book on the bed and it did those 2 steps well. I raise the z axis. But when I tell him to level again he crashes into the bed. And raising the z-axis while it's making noise from being in contact with the bed makes me afraid to wait that long for the z-axis adjustment window to activate. I don't know if the limit switch needs to be adjusted. Thanks in advance 🤗
Great video! It really helps me understand leveling well. There is one thing with my printer that I'm not sure about though, where the wheels/screws under the bed keep coming loose when I turn them clockwise. Is this normal or how do I fix it?
I do something close to this. I have the CR Touch, which I ended up using mainly to get a more precise z axis zero point relative to the x/y home point on the bed. I then use the Move prepare function to adjust the x,y,z to what I want the gap to be. I first move the Z until I get the necessary gap. I note this for my z offset, but don't set the offset yet. Then i use the x & y move controls to each of the corners, raising the z first a bit so I don't hit the bed as I move, incase the bed is too high in a particular corner. Then bring the z down when I am at the corner, adjusting the level knob until I reach the target offset height based on a piece of paper. You can then set your offset, fine tuning it as needed. With paper as the gauge, indeed you have an actual 0.1 offset, but you can counter that with the offset setting. I'm going to try setting the offset closer to zero from the bed and see if that improves prints at all or causes symptoms of being too close. Question though: I am using eSun PLA+ filament and I can't get proper 1st level print when I use Cura at super quality (0.12) height thickness.even though the setting for that profile is supposed to print the first layer at standard 0.2. The ender display shows the beginning of the print is actually 0.1. I've tried compensating with z offset but if I go any lower than my original setting, it is clearly too low with extrusion smeared or missing. Any higher than found setting and it doesn't stick and I get pulling of laid down tracks at turns. Ideas?
is there any file for an ender 3 max?
580 subs with this production quality should be illegal
I just tried your GCODE and found it didn't work on my Ender 3 V2. However I substituted " M0; M108;" for the "M25;" command and found it worked perfectly. The M25 command on my machine pauses then returns home
So if I use this gcode it automatically levels?
Amen man. I had this same issue over and over. I could visibly see it moving upon down but yet every video says to do it that way. I ended up getting the cr touch bed leveling lmao. I about gave up otherwise. Oh and I also ended up just doithe stipes test and set the z offset so the squish of the initial layer was right. It helped me alot. And what would ya know I ended up having to lower it quite a bit from what they say to level it to. 🤔
im having an issue where the head keeps going toward home after it goes to the area when i press start / pause. It centers to the area it should but immediately starts moving back towards home.
Thankyou mate , its really work ,and i got lucky , the Gcode is working well with mine
Big like
I cannot seem to get the paper method to work for me. It always leaves the nozzle way too close to the bed when printing. It's still way too close even if I fold the paper in fourths. It just squishes and burns the filament to the bed which is of course hard to get off.
Ay frllow south african 3D printer enthusiast, thanks for the tips
Thank you so much for this. In retrospect, it's obvious why disabling the steppers is a bad idea, but it hadn't occurred to me at the time, and is probably why I could never get the bed level. After following your advice it's good, it stays good, and most of the problems I've had printing have disappeared. I knew the bed wasn't level, but I was going crazy trying to level it. Using your gcode made it so much easier.