Hi from Argentina 🇦🇷 a long time ago I found a knife like the one you used and I didn't know what it was for .. now I know .. thanks for your videos. they remind me of my times as a field technician 😃🙌🏻
6:20 I believe if you hook it up backwards the signal level will just be low at that location . Taps after will work ok as thru loss not as affected.Thanks for the video
I actually just dealt with that about 2 weeks ago, I asked old man cable and he said its called port to port isolation. You can recreate it by hooking a ordinary 2 way splitter or dc up backwards, one port will not see any signal degradation, the other though, will see really bad signal levels. Usually the return gets it the worst, but the forward will also take a hit as well, thought I did not see any errors or ICFR. So services will continue to work but they will not work great.
The reason you have to tighten the connectors in that order is because the top nut clamps the teeth onto the center conductor and the bottom nut clamps the fitting on the cable shielding. if you do it backwards you won't be able to turn the fitting without twisting the cable. Great job with video though, keep them coming!
That's not what I meant. Manufacturers require you to move your wrench to the center section to tighten the bottom locknut. In cable games competitions they will dock points if you leave the wrench on the top part of the connector and use your 2nd wrench on the locknut. They will require you to move your wrench down. Same with a straight splice. Don't tighten the locknut while holding your one wrench on the center barrel section.
@@thebasiccablechannel7464 Oh I see what you're saying. I believe its for the same thing, if you leave your wrench on the top you run the risk of turning the middle nut as you're tightening the bottom nut.
What Midblade said. Keeping wrench on top nut after tightening middle nut risks twisting center conducter and damaging skin effect of copper. That's what I was taught. Good to see you're making videos again.
Not sure about the model of tap you are using in the video, but with our Regals and Millenniums the only thing affected by installing a tap backward is the freshly installed tap. The taps after the newly installed tap will work just fine.
Heeeey, You’re back! Your videos have helped a few of us new FNT’s over in NER 216. Thank you! I’m struggling with xpertrack in regards to narrowing down ingress/changing the dwell time, recognizing ingress behind the carriers. Wish I could hit you up on outlook without giving your name out.
Great info. Thank you. ---- Whats the typical description/spec for 0.625 to single port RJ11 tap in the video? This would be the same for adding a tap to the output of a line amp street pedistal for singe residence? To spec the tap the length/insertion loss for the RJ11 to the equipment. Thank for any response.
Does anybody know what happened to this guy who doesn't upload any more videos? He's pretty good at this and explains so well. I would like to hear that he's ok and coming back to create these videos that help a lot to newer techs. Good luck and hope to see you soon 👍
One tip I would have is hand tighten the back nut (or bottom nut) after you're done tightening the middle nut. That way it saves you from using your wrench so much when you go to tighten.
Do they even make a coring tool for 625 that will take the jacket off? All we have are the standard ones like the one you used. I know on QR715 & 860 they have that piece that comes off and you can skin the very top so the backup nut can go on but it would be very nice if on P3 cable you could just core without stripping the jacket first. Some techs cay you can core P3 like QR but I never tried it.
@@ajlindy1108 that is provided by your company? Is there a brand name on it? That would make life so much easier man. "Tech Tool Supply" We use "Hub 2U" but never seen a all in one on there.
I have a Question. We moved our travel trailer into a RV park. we are 80 feet from the Pole that gives service, It only had a 4 head tap on it, and they told us they can not hook us up to cable. Then they told us that it would cost the RV park about 10,000 to add a line in for everyone to hook up. Well you just showed us how to put a tap in, Cant the cable company remove the tap on the pole and change it from a 4 to a 8 so they can drop 4 more lines down to people who are close to the pole.
Assuming the service up to the 4 port tap there is active, it's pretty easy to slap in a 8 port tap. However, it will lower the amount of signal heading downsteam so it could require the installation of a plant amplifier to get enough signal to the end of the line.
You don't cut all the way to the center conductor when sharpening the dielectric. However, if you make a mistake, just core a little bit more to get past the scratch. I would advise against making a mistake though in case you're working with limited slack.
Hopefully your not a piece rate BC god help you. you'll starve. I've made 10s of 1000s of connections and always cut the center conductor flush on first cut. NEVER have I had it not mate into the top pin. That hole is huge, way bigger than it needs to be. And if u just skrink that wrap just until its smaller it will leak 100 percent. Ive cut in new and retro for all the big companies and have had zero issues. This was a good video for educational or the inquisitive
That is not true. A backwards tap will not have signal at the spigots but down the line still will have signal. I just retired after 41 years. I always gave those Arris taps a retorque on the seizure screws. Go back in a day and I bet yours are barely holding. Especially in colder climates.
Well maybe the fact that he used a drill, but I don't mind if someone else uses drill, I use my hand only because when the tool is too loose you can't core it right and you need a new coring tool or replace the little plastic inside. Also cable is a little low, I rather dig some dirt out, but overall is his style, and it's fine, gets the work done.
@@ima4916 It was for demonstrational purposes. Some of our old school guys use hand tools only but it is hard on the wrists and takes longer. As long as you keep your tools clean and sharp and inspect your work the quality is every bit as good.
Please Please help to find someone who has the tools to core a line and set a tap Exactly like you shown !!!! I can’t get service or help from the local cable company because I’m outside their service area so I need someone independent Zip code 39110
Companies often require a hardhat while certain conditions exist (like if one is working near a road or other variables). I honestly wear mine if I am not in my truck, it has saved me countless times when ducking under low trees.
You’re awesome. Please do more videos!!! The way you explain things is so clear and has helped several guys I know to troubleshoot plant faults.
Thanks Matt. Hopefully more to come in the future. I was new before with a drive to learn more so I just wanted to share with those who want more.
No wonder my dad has all of the tools you have even the same knife . It’s for
Cable installations!! . Thanks for this video
I am not even in the telecom industry and I find your videos really interesting to learn from.
Lol thanks. You get bored and watch cable related videos?
This is not telecom, this is cable. Telecom is way different and way harder.
This is the type of content that I learn best from. Thank you for this and please keep it up.
Hi from Argentina 🇦🇷 a long time ago I found a knife like the one you used and I didn't know what it was for .. now I know .. thanks for your videos. they remind me of my times as a field technician 😃🙌🏻
6:20 I believe if you hook it up backwards the signal level will just be low at that location . Taps after will work ok as thru loss not as affected.Thanks for the video
I actually just dealt with that about 2 weeks ago, I asked old man cable and he said its called port to port isolation. You can recreate it by hooking a ordinary 2 way splitter or dc up backwards, one port will not see any signal degradation, the other though, will see really bad signal levels. Usually the return gets it the worst, but the forward will also take a hit as well, thought I did not see any errors or ICFR. So services will continue to work but they will not work great.
A great video. Thank you. I'm about to begin my career in telecommunications
The reason you have to tighten the connectors in that order is because the top nut clamps the teeth onto the center conductor and the bottom nut clamps the fitting on the cable shielding. if you do it backwards you won't be able to turn the fitting without twisting the cable. Great job with video though, keep them coming!
That's not what I meant.
Manufacturers require you to move your wrench to the center section to tighten the bottom locknut. In cable games competitions they will dock points if you leave the wrench on the top part of the connector and use your 2nd wrench on the locknut. They will require you to move your wrench down. Same with a straight splice. Don't tighten the locknut while holding your one wrench on the center barrel section.
@@thebasiccablechannel7464 Oh I see what you're saying. I believe its for the same thing, if you leave your wrench on the top you run the risk of turning the middle nut as you're tightening the bottom nut.
What Midblade said. Keeping wrench on top nut after tightening middle nut risks twisting center conducter and damaging skin effect of copper. That's what I was taught.
Good to see you're making videos again.
Great video! Keep 'em coming!!!
Can you make some more video love the channel
Not sure about the model of tap you are using in the video, but with our Regals and Millenniums the only thing affected by installing a tap backward is the freshly installed tap. The taps after the newly installed tap will work just fine.
Yeah I think you're right on that one. Been a while since I've ran on one.
Another quality video!! 👍
Heeeey, You’re back! Your videos have helped a few of us new FNT’s over in NER 216. Thank you! I’m struggling with xpertrack in regards to narrowing down ingress/changing the dwell time, recognizing ingress behind the carriers. Wish I could hit you up on outlook without giving your name out.
Feel free to send me a message on thebcchannel@gmail.com.
Great videos on this channel! Was wondering if you could do a video on HUM on the Plant, causation and tracking it, thanks!
Great info. Thank you. ---- Whats the typical description/spec for 0.625 to single port RJ11 tap in the video? This would be the same for adding a tap to the output of a line amp street pedistal for singe residence? To spec the tap the length/insertion loss for the RJ11 to the equipment. Thank for any response.
Great video!
This has inspired me to make my own "tap splicing" video. 4-5 mins to cut in a tap. No corners cut. (:
Does anybody know what happened to this guy who doesn't upload any more videos? He's pretty good at this and explains so well. I would like to hear that he's ok and coming back to create these videos that help a lot to newer techs.
Good luck and hope to see you soon 👍
Nice video like
One tip I would have is hand tighten the back nut (or bottom nut) after you're done tightening the middle nut. That way it saves you from using your wrench so much when you go to tighten.
I'm assuming the pedestal will be installed at a later time?
This video just covers the coring and connectorizing to a tap. Sorry no ped install in this video. :)
It's safer to put on the backup nut then the middle cored section first.
Do you happen to have any information about know how to balance a technetix amp ?
Do they even make a coring tool for 625 that will take the jacket off? All we have are the standard ones like the one you used. I know on QR715 & 860 they have that piece that comes off and you can skin the very top so the backup nut can go on but it would be very nice if on P3 cable you could just core without stripping the jacket first. Some techs cay you can core P3 like QR but I never tried it.
Yes, I have the all in one cable prep brand for 625, 500, 700, 750, and 875. Makes life so much easier. Tech tool supply carries all of them
@@ajlindy1108 that is provided by your company? Is there a brand name on it? That would make life so much easier man. "Tech Tool Supply" We use "Hub 2U" but never seen a all in one on there.
Good job
Could you do a video on OBI? And what cable company do you work for lol
What gloves are those
Dude almost cut his face up lmao
More vids!!!
I have a Question. We moved our travel trailer into a RV park. we are 80 feet from the Pole that gives service, It only had a 4 head tap on it, and they told us they can not hook us up to cable. Then they told us that it would cost the RV park about 10,000 to add a line in for everyone to hook up.
Well you just showed us how to put a tap in, Cant the cable company remove the tap on the pole and change it from a 4 to a 8 so they can drop 4 more lines down to people who are close to the pole.
Assuming the service up to the 4 port tap there is active, it's pretty easy to slap in a 8 port tap. However, it will lower the amount of signal heading downsteam so it could require the installation of a plant amplifier to get enough signal to the end of the line.
But if the service getting to that tap isn't very good and would require an upgrade to get that whole area serviceable it could easily cost $10k
625 fitting?
Dosen't the knife scratch the center conduct?
You don't cut all the way to the center conductor when sharpening the dielectric. However, if you make a mistake, just core a little bit more to get past the scratch. I would advise against making a mistake though in case you're working with limited slack.
Well with 625 hard line you have to remove the jacket before you core
I am not sure what you are referring to?
@@thebasiccablechannel7464 There are a few types of cable out there like .540 and .860 that the jacket stays on while coring.
And this industry is still not considered a trade. Doesn't make sense to me
It's not as easy as it looks. You gotta deal with a lot of bullshit.
This is the easy part. Balance and troubleshoot are 90% of a splicer's work
Nah you tweakin
Hopefully your not a piece rate BC god help you. you'll starve. I've made 10s of 1000s of connections and always cut the center conductor flush on first cut. NEVER have I had it not mate into the top pin. That hole is huge, way bigger than it needs to be. And if u just skrink that wrap just until its smaller it will leak 100 percent. Ive cut in new and retro for all the big companies and have had zero issues. This was a good video for educational or the inquisitive
That is not true. A backwards tap will not have signal at the spigots but down the line still will have signal. I just retired after 41 years. I always gave those Arris taps a retorque on the seizure screws. Go back in a day and I bet yours are barely holding. Especially in colder climates.
That was painful to watch. And why is it so low?
Lol What was so painful about it?
Not sure why you think that was painful? He did everything great
Well maybe the fact that he used a drill, but I don't mind if someone else uses drill, I use my hand only because when the tool is too loose you can't core it right and you need a new coring tool or replace the little plastic inside. Also cable is a little low, I rather dig some dirt out, but overall is his style, and it's fine, gets the work done.
@@ima4916 It was for demonstrational purposes. Some of our old school guys use hand tools only but it is hard on the wrists and takes longer. As long as you keep your tools clean and sharp and inspect your work the quality is every bit as good.
i agree.. def inhouse work. my kids would starve if i went out and did this
Some of the work done here is not up to modern code. Please be careful if you do this at home.
Can't see well video too far please get closer
Please Please help to find someone who has the tools to core a line and set a tap Exactly like you shown !!!! I can’t get service or help from the local cable company because I’m outside their service area so I need someone independent
Zip code 39110
What happend to you keep making videos
why tf u have helmet? Afraid of rain?
Lots of job sites require hard hats
Companies often require a hardhat while certain conditions exist (like if one is working near a road or other variables). I honestly wear mine if I am not in my truck, it has saved me countless times when ducking under low trees.