I don't even mess with driving those pins in much...mill out the link opening a bit and tap it in with a small hammer then tack weld it...never had a problem.
Enjoyed watching you do this, reminds me of doing the same thing on my nine yeares and years ago, out in the cold with no help, just getting it done. good job
All pad bolts should be soaked in oil before using. And the paint should also be ground off the rails before installing the pads. A job worth doing is worth doing right....
I did the same job on my Case 450 Crawler-loader about 5 years ago. New chain, tensioner seals, grouser bolts, bottom rollers and carrier rollers. Replaced the master pin with a C-Clamp and hydraulic jack that I fabricated out of 8-inch I-Beam. Worked great! Hats off to you doing it out in the weather. Looking for a video on brakes now.
Thanks for sharing the tip about the fabricated C clamp Dan. I’ve never changed a dozer chain, but I’m in the market for a dozer and guessing it will probably need undercarriage work given my budget.
The reason you had so much trouble getting the master pin all the way in is that you were spreading the link apart. I always put a track pad on the link then rotate the chain to where the master pin is at the sprocket near the bottom. This will allow you to swing your hammer without hitting the pad. You can also use a large "C" clamp to keep the link from spreading while driving in the master pin.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 Hi , I bought an older d450, model number 304xxxxx.. It appears to need a new tensioner and looks the same as your machine. Question,, Can the tensioner be replaced, without taking the track off? It looks like I can replace by looking at your video, without taking the track off. Also, was there any other parts involved or just replacement of the tentionser? I see I can buy the tension full assembly (here: www.brokentractor.com/p/case-450-dozer-complete-track-adjuster-d35504-d35504/), but want to make sure I don't remove the tensioner and realize there wan an extra part I need: partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr3487082ar748769 ... feedback is appreciated and thanks for the video!
@@connecticut730 as long as you think you can get the track out far enough to get the tensioner out and the new one in that should be all you need. I dont see any reason why that would not work. The only problem I ran into with my tensioners is the 2 bolts were extremely tight, you will want to use an impact so you dont round them off. They are 1 1/8" if I remember.
Been there. messed with a JD 755, repairing broken track pins in the field, re-pinned and bushed an entire set of D4 tracks with 50 ton hand jack. Got a komatsu PC100 track hoe that needs chains replaced.
Clean the tracks and the undercarriage will last longer dirt will lock the roller and that causes a lot of wear and tear. Frozen dirt locks those roller really well.
yes it does, I let it freeze once and never did get it completely cleaned out till spring. I keep it pretty well cleaned out after dealing with that once.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 I learned that lessen working for a contractor in the Mississippi River Delta we had a back sticky clay to deal with commonly referred to as gumbo by the locals. That stuff would lock the tracks if you allowed it to dry in the tracks.
@@johnmcmickle5685 I bet that was fun to chisel out when it dried. I think after letting mine freeze once I have learned my lesson. At least it happened before I replaced the tracks and rollers.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 It was some a lot of work, fortunatley the foreman on my crew allowed us to clean the tracks daily if the dozer was used.
Thanks, I wanted to wait longer but the old tracks were coming off at least once an hour. They were stretched bad and the tensioners were completely worn out.
My first inclination is to move the dozer to pavement and completely power wash and clean it of any mud rocks and debris. I cannot work on a machine that is caked up. However, you did great with what you had to work with.
Put the pin in the freezer as soon as you get it, the longer the better, or try dry ice. Really get it cold , 48 hours or more. the n heat the side links like Harold said, be ready and work fast, track plate on to keep spacing if possible . Also I like to have to ha e the link over the front idler, it really helps hold it in place when driving the pin in. Get a pipe,shaft or something just smaller than the pine to line up the links well.
It would be big job to hiring an hidraulic press for that master pin? Usually i clean the back side of the pads,and the face of the track with an angle grinder,with wire wheel on,before fit the pads,make sure no dirt between them.
I figured that I could get the pins in and out myself. Cleaning the pads and track chain id definitely the way to do it, I had to re tighten the pads 2 times till they all stayed tight. As of 2 days ago when I last ran it it is working well.
www.epsstore.com/index.php/hydraulics/cylinder/dozer-hydraulics/case-dozer-cylinders/case-450-1150e-hydraulic-cylinders.html This place seems to have them, also if you have your old ones you should be able to take them and have them rebuilt.
Nice job, good video, not a lot of jibber jabber, just helpful points. I need to change brake discs on mine, you got a video? or suggestion where it to a master cylinder?
I do not, I so far have not had any break trouble on my dozer. I have a 300 Case skidder that I was having trouble with and it turned out to be the master cylinder.
I feel ya my friend we just had to break our track just a suggestion idk if u can do it to case but u can frezz the master pin and it's alot easyer just found ur channel I signed have a good one
Thanks for watching, I'm not sure how much freezing the pin would help here since it was around freezing, I might have had a easier time if I heated up the part the pin goes through. If I do the tracks again I will give it a try though.
That probably would have helped, I imagine that is what caused them to loosen a bit the first week. Since re-tightening I have not had any more problems. This dozer is run 6 to 8 hours per day.
Type this in google, "Industrial Tractor Parts of Pennsylvania" They had everything I needed. You should be able to find their phone number. Have your information ready such as year, model, and serial number.
A couple yrs late, but......as some have mentioned, you are spreading the link a bit because of pin friction, so clamping it would probably help. Also, you lose force/momentum, because the track moves/absorbs a lot of the impact shock. Find a way to secure/brace the track, and it will go in much easier
Thanks for the constructive reply, it was getting a bit tiresome with all the super mechanics out there. I was 19 at the time and self taught so I did not have any background on this kind of stuff.
So are you saying the only way to do this is with the hydraulic press? Related, many years ago I was driving a steel stake with a sledgehammer and a chip about the size of a quarter broke off the face of the sledgehammer and hit me in the chest. It felt like I had been shot with a 45 caliber bullet!
Have two drive gears on the track one in the front one in the rear more drive gear power with a front drive sprocket one rear drive sprocket less wear and tear on the track and better pulling power on the track from front and back sprockets much less stretch on the track
Yep, I was aware that happened. I let the tracks freeze once about a month before this video and could never get it completely chipped out. The chains, pads, and carrier rollers were in bad shape before that so it was no major loss. Thanks for watching.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 kinda seems like it was one of those "ok, I should definately replace that soon.... but itl take a while to wear it down to the bearing, soo I'll just finish this season out." Moments. Due to the lack of a heated shop I've definately had some sorry looking equipment come spring time.
get a bigger hammer. that missing while swinging probably didn't do your new roller/idler any good. you ever clean the mud or dirt off that thing. that to may increase the life of the machine.maybe
I could have rebuilt, I was in a hurry to get this back together because it was at the time the only machine I had. I saved the old ones so if I need to in the future I will rebuild them and put them in.
@@justinrobertson1590 I got my track parts from Industrial Tractor Parts of Pennsylvania. They had everything I needed in stock and reasonably priced. As far as I know you have to remove the track, you might be able to just roll it off the front idler and have enough clearance but most likely just as easy to remove.
How well would that work considering the track chain was also about 25-30 degrees? I will try it for sure next time I have to replace tracks which will hopefully be in better weather.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 most rollers can be replaced with out removing the tracks. And if there's welding needed on the track frame it's best and easier to remove the track frame itself.
It would have been better to clean it before putting on the new tracks. I let the dirt freeze on it once near midwinter and was never able to get it all cleaned out so this is what it was like for most of the rest of winter.
Never ended up even trying, just put a small spot of weld on the center of the master pins. Probably could have got a small hole drilled but they are pretty hard.
That is true for sure, it got away from me and froze around mid winter. After that you pretty much cant get it all cleaned out till spring. I just kept it for the most part cleaned out around the top roller until I got replacements.
Dam, you missed a perfectly good chance to clean that filthy machine with the track off. And all that pounding of the pin. I'd fire you in a blink for doing those things to one of my dozers.
I looked on your channel for "one of your dozers" and did not see any, in fact I didn't see any videos at all to back up what your saying. You can come out next time I need to work on a piece of equipment and use your far superior skills to fix it for me.
I usually do, it froze once and stayed frozen. Seeing as I work for my self I dont see me getting fired. Maybe instead of posting yet another comment about this you should have read a few. Also you can post some videos of your machines if you have time, I would like to see them.
I don't even mess with driving those pins in much...mill out the link opening a bit and tap it in with a small hammer then tack weld it...never had a problem.
IH had the alligator master links way back in the day.Good job!
Enjoyed watching you do this, reminds me of doing the same thing on my nine yeares and years ago, out in the cold with no help, just getting it done. good job
Thanks for watching, I watched pretty much all of you videos and that is what got me started into doing these repairs myself.
Good work man. I appreciate you dragging the shop compressor out to the field. Use what you got. Keep it up
Thanks, cant start with everything. It gets the job done without costing me more money.
the greatest hammer swinger in the world.
I did the same job on my Case 450 a few years back. Very happy to have it done.
Undercarriage work is much easier when you clean it up first. Keeping it clean will help it last longer.
No kidding , right?
Nice job man!
All pad bolts should be soaked in oil before using. And the paint should also be ground off the rails before installing the pads. A job worth doing is worth doing right....
wow! That was something.
I did the same job on my Case 450 Crawler-loader about 5 years ago. New chain, tensioner seals, grouser bolts, bottom rollers and carrier rollers. Replaced the master pin with a C-Clamp and hydraulic jack that I fabricated out of 8-inch I-Beam. Worked great! Hats off to you doing it out in the weather. Looking for a video on brakes now.
Thanks for sharing the tip about the fabricated C clamp Dan. I’ve never changed a dozer chain, but I’m in the market for a dozer and guessing it will probably need undercarriage work given my budget.
The reason you had so much trouble getting the master pin all the way in is that you were spreading the link apart. I always put a track pad on the link then rotate the chain to where the master pin is at the sprocket near the bottom. This will allow you to swing your hammer without hitting the pad. You can also use a large "C" clamp to keep the link from spreading while driving in the master pin.
Sounds like a good idea, I will try that next time.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 Hi , I bought an older d450, model number 304xxxxx.. It appears to need a new tensioner and looks the same as your machine. Question,, Can the tensioner be replaced, without taking the track off? It looks like I can replace by looking at your video, without taking the track off. Also, was there any other parts involved or just replacement of the tentionser? I see I can buy the tension full assembly (here: www.brokentractor.com/p/case-450-dozer-complete-track-adjuster-d35504-d35504/), but want to make sure I don't remove the tensioner and realize there wan an extra part I need: partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr3487082ar748769 ... feedback is appreciated and thanks for the video!
@@connecticut730 as long as you think you can get the track out far enough to get the tensioner out and the new one in that should be all you need. I dont see any reason why that would not work. The only problem I ran into with my tensioners is the 2 bolts were extremely tight, you will want to use an impact so you dont round them off. They are 1 1/8" if I remember.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 thank you.
@@connecticut730 Let me know how it works out or if you have any other problems with it.
Been there. messed with a JD 755, repairing broken track pins in the field, re-pinned and bushed an entire set of D4 tracks with 50 ton hand jack. Got a komatsu PC100 track hoe that needs chains replaced.
Thanks for watching, I figured might as well do it myself then I could lean something new.
Really enjoyed the video, I’m not the best shot with a hammer either. 😆
Thanks, have gotten much better but still miss every once in a while.
Out of 10 swings hit the pin twice!
Hello , please upload a video clip related to " how to measure track tension ? "
Thanks
I Heat the links up with a torch and freeze the pin with a can of Freon and they slide right in
Nice
keep beating on the pin so you can mushroom the pin
how many tons the ram is ? And say something about the pump ... Thanks ! Best regards from Bulgaria
Clean the tracks and the undercarriage will last longer dirt will lock the roller and that causes a lot of wear and tear. Frozen dirt locks those roller really well.
yes it does, I let it freeze once and never did get it completely cleaned out till spring. I keep it pretty well cleaned out after dealing with that once.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 I learned that lessen working for a contractor in the Mississippi River Delta we had a back sticky clay to deal with commonly referred to as gumbo by the locals. That stuff would lock the tracks if you allowed it to dry in the tracks.
@@johnmcmickle5685 I bet that was fun to chisel out when it dried. I think after letting mine freeze once I have learned my lesson. At least it happened before I replaced the tracks and rollers.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 It was some a lot of work, fortunatley the foreman on my crew allowed us to clean the tracks daily if the dozer was used.
Look good too, but for me I won't put tracks on when it's still cold. I'd better wash and clean the Dozer before put on new tracks.
Thanks, I wanted to wait longer but the old tracks were coming off at least once an hour. They were stretched bad and the tensioners were completely worn out.
My first inclination is to move the dozer to pavement and completely power wash and clean it of any mud rocks and debris. I cannot work on a machine that is caked up. However, you did great with what you had to work with.
Put the pin in the freezer, heat chain with torch, take pin directly from freezer, put in while chains still hot, slip right in but have to be quick
I dont think the freezer would help since it was around freezing out but the torch probably would have helped a lot. Thanks for the tip.
Put the pin in the freezer as soon as you get it, the longer the better, or try dry ice. Really get it cold , 48 hours or more. the n heat the side links like Harold said, be ready and work fast, track plate on to keep spacing if possible . Also I like to have to ha e the link over the front idler, it really helps hold it in place when driving the pin in. Get a pipe,shaft or something just smaller than the pine to line up the links well.
Air hammer !
It would be big job to hiring an hidraulic press for that master pin?
Usually i clean the back side of the pads,and the face of the track with an angle grinder,with wire wheel on,before fit the pads,make sure no dirt between them.
I figured that I could get the pins in and out myself. Cleaning the pads and track chain id definitely the way to do it, I had to re tighten the pads 2 times till they all stayed tight. As of 2 days ago when I last ran it it is working well.
I have the same dozer. I wish i could find those blade angle cylinders, but they are impossible to find
www.epsstore.com/index.php/hydraulics/cylinder/dozer-hydraulics/case-dozer-cylinders/case-450-1150e-hydraulic-cylinders.html
This place seems to have them, also if you have your old ones you should be able to take them and have them rebuilt.
Nice Job where did u get your pads and track chain from thanks
They were Berco brand and I got them from Industrial Tractor Parts of Pennsylvania in Latrobe. They have a website so you can find their information.
Nice job, good video, not a lot of jibber jabber, just helpful points. I need to change brake discs on mine, you got a video? or suggestion where it to a master cylinder?
I do not, I so far have not had any break trouble on my dozer. I have a 300 Case skidder that I was having trouble with and it turned out to be the master cylinder.
Anyone know what the grease press he used to take out the small roller?
I feel ya my friend we just had to break our track just a suggestion idk if u can do it to case but u can frezz the master pin and it's alot easyer just found ur channel I signed have a good one
Thanks for watching, I'm not sure how much freezing the pin would help here since it was around freezing, I might have had a easier time if I heated up the part the pin goes through. If I do the tracks again I will give it a try though.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 cut the pin boss with a torch, l'v been doing it for decades, never seen one fail.
Where did you get the new treads?
How long do expect those track shoe bolts to stay tight? just wondering.
I ran it for about a week till I noticed a slightly loose pad. Then I re tightened all of them and they have been good since.
need to clean all the paint off the mating faces chain and pad
That probably would have helped, I imagine that is what caused them to loosen a bit the first week. Since re-tightening I have not had any more problems. This dozer is run 6 to 8 hours per day.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 lol no probably about it. And a impact is the worst way to tighten pad bolts.
Where did you get your parts from? Especially the chain
Type this in google, "Industrial Tractor Parts of Pennsylvania" They had everything I needed. You should be able to find their phone number. Have your information ready such as year, model, and serial number.
A couple yrs late, but......as some have mentioned, you are spreading the link a bit because of pin friction, so clamping it would probably help. Also, you lose force/momentum, because the track moves/absorbs a lot of the impact shock. Find a way to secure/brace the track, and it will go in much easier
Thanks for the constructive reply, it was getting a bit tiresome with all the super mechanics out there. I was 19 at the time and self taught so I did not have any background on this kind of stuff.
NEVER hit directly on the pin! Your "shaking hands with danger!"
What is the reason for that, everyone that I talked to does that. Are they as hard as a hammer head where they can shatter?
So are you saying the only way to do this is with the hydraulic press? Related, many years ago I was driving a steel stake with a sledgehammer and a chip about the size of a quarter broke off the face of the sledgehammer and hit me in the chest. It felt like I had been shot with a 45 caliber bullet!
Have two drive gears on the track one in the front one in the rear more drive gear power with a front drive sprocket one rear drive sprocket less wear and tear on the track and better pulling power on the track from front and back sprockets much less stretch on the track
Try and put that in English, no punctuation whatsoever in that. I have no clue what you are going on about.
Your carrier roller is flat because it won't turn due to all the crap on your track frame
Yep, I was aware that happened. I let the tracks freeze once about a month before this video and could never get it completely chipped out. The chains, pads, and carrier rollers were in bad shape before that so it was no major loss. Thanks for watching.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 kinda seems like it was one of those "ok, I should definately replace that soon.... but itl take a while to wear it down to the bearing, soo I'll just finish this season out." Moments. Due to the lack of a heated shop I've definately had some sorry looking equipment come spring time.
@@Alex-uy7pc That pretty much sums it up. I knew it was at the end of its lifespan and was planning on replacing it soon anyway.
For whom the bell tolls......
Cut the link at the pin boss with a torch slide the pin in and weld the boss back up. No heating no beating, easy pleasey...
I did not own a torch at the time but that is how I would do it now.
Будь здоров)
I’ve taken the tracks off and then put back them back on a 650G case dozer. It is not fun
It was not as hard as I thought it would be but I am glad tracks take a long time to need replaced.
Someone forgot to clean the tracks , I shouldn’t complain I’ve been known to do that myself
get a bigger hammer. that missing while swinging probably didn't do your new roller/idler any good. you ever clean the mud or dirt off that thing. that to may increase the life of the machine.maybe
How you know wich is the master pin? it is different?
They usually have a small hole drilled in the center or a small raised portion. If your tracks are old it might be hard to see it.
Thanks !!!!!
@@guillermoandersen9839 You're welcome. Did you find yours?
There isn't one.
Why did you buy a new track adjuster? Can you not rebuild them?
I could have rebuilt, I was in a hurry to get this back together because it was at the time the only machine I had. I saved the old ones so if I need to in the future I will rebuild them and put them in.
endlessmountainwoodworks thanks. Where do you buy your parts? Also, the track has to come off in order to repair the adjuster, correct?
@@justinrobertson1590 I got my track parts from Industrial Tractor Parts of Pennsylvania. They had everything I needed in stock and reasonably priced. As far as I know you have to remove the track, you might be able to just roll it off the front idler and have enough clearance but most likely just as easy to remove.
Next time freeze the pin you shove it in with one hand
How well would that work considering the track chain was also about 25-30 degrees? I will try it for sure next time I have to replace tracks which will hopefully be in better weather.
Freeze in dry ice and ethyl alcohol. -90F.
If you rolled that to the sprocket to beat in would have gone little easier
I will be doing this again soon so I will be trying it that way. I have to put bottom track rollers on it.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 most rollers can be replaced with out removing the tracks. And if there's welding needed on the track frame it's best and easier to remove the track frame itself.
Are you one of the guys on broke back mountain?
You should not be hitting the pin directly you will swell it, you are hitting the air with no support the for inside link,good luck drilling the pin
Two words Pressure Washer
I don't understand of to see a dozer so dirty and to work like that. That would be better to clean before, because that's so easy for working no???
It would have been better to clean it before putting on the new tracks. I let the dirt freeze on it once near midwinter and was never able to get it all cleaned out so this is what it was like for most of the rest of winter.
Okay, i understand why.
Don't think your gonna drill in to that pin
Never ended up even trying, just put a small spot of weld on the center of the master pins. Probably could have got a small hole drilled but they are pretty hard.
No! SMFH
Maybe if you clean it wouldn't be so hard it maintenance it
That is true for sure, it got away from me and froze around mid winter. After that you pretty much cant get it all cleaned out till spring. I just kept it for the most part cleaned out around the top roller until I got replacements.
@@endlessmountainwoodworks4278 tiger torch.
Este es un mecanico de poca monta no sabe loque esta asiendo.
Dam, you missed a perfectly good chance to clean that filthy machine with the track off. And all that pounding of the pin. I'd fire you in a blink for doing those things to one of my dozers.
I looked on your channel for "one of your dozers" and did not see any, in fact I didn't see any videos at all to back up what your saying. You can come out next time I need to work on a piece of equipment and use your far superior skills to fix it for me.
And there ya have it folks. No videos or my own channel meansI'm lying. @@endlessmountainwoodworks4278
@@mylynne1953 pretty sure you are not even a operator. LOL
CLEAN YOUR FRIGGIN MACHINE ONCE IN AWHILE MAN......I'd fire you if you did that....sheesh.
I usually do, it froze once and stayed frozen. Seeing as I work for my self I dont see me getting fired. Maybe instead of posting yet another comment about this you should have read a few. Also you can post some videos of your machines if you have time, I would like to see them.
Your not the sharpest tool in the shed are ya
And how exactly would you have done it different? I looked on your channel for a video of a better way of doing this but did not find any.
it's "you're", not your.. guess you aren't that sharp either. don't be a richard
450 Case is not worth a new track.