The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Alexander McQueen was once the biggest designer in the world. Every season the company was the hottest ticket and noone could wait to see what spectacular they would put on next. But mostly due to personal problems the company abruptly changed focus and became corporate, slick and far more commercial; though that doesn't mean it's been unsuccessful. Sarah Burton has turned McQueen from a big buzzy brand into a reliable seller for their parent company Kering and though SS24 was her final collection, she has set the company up phenomenally well to be Kering's next big star brand, and hopefully she will be very sorely missed as a result
Life and Death of Lee Alexander McQueen: • The Life and Death of ...
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Andrew Wilson - Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath The Skin: amzn.to/3N2P5E5
Anne Deniau - Love Looks Not with the Eyes: Thirteen Years with Lee Alexander McQueen: amzn.to/47vUnjN
Claire Wilcox - Alexander McQueen: amzn.to/49QTzHH
Dana Thomas - Gods and Kings: amzn.to/3sOMdUm
Judith Watt - Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy: amzn.to/3N0emyE
Karen Homer - The Little Book of Alexander McQueen: The story of the iconic brand: amzn.to/3RgbP64
Katherine Gleason - Alexander McQueen: Evolution: amzn.to/41brJCh
Kristin Knox - Alexander McQueen: Genius of a Generation: amzn.to/4a6T1xJ
LIFE AND DEATH OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: ua-cam.com/video/5CY1fkAWprE/v-deo.html
This is officially my 50th brand covered on the channel! Very happy it ended up being the McQueen video, the spring show was so good and I spent so much time on this video. I just wanted to say ty to everyone thats supported the channel so far, its been great to be able to learn and share with you all
Hey, make it a six part series. If I know anything about the internet is that we love a series. Think Jeffree Star and Shane Dawson's series for their makeup palettes. They could still be more concentrated than what goes over on Patreon, but since you already have the research and the script why waste the hard work. (religious almost cultish fan of your page btw)
@@anidhiman3108 unfortunately it doesn't work as well for informational videos as it does for those dramatised tv show-like videos. But, Im not saying I wont ever release the stupidly long version, I just know I wont release it first, it'll depend on the reaction to the video tbh
@@understitchYT ok smart.
Also the exhibit here in columbia sc.
Omg congratulations!!!!! It’s been my fave so far, I’ve listened repeatedly. Thank you for all 50!!❤️🙏🏻❤️
LEE never fell, he went out an icon rather than a forgotten designer- though I do wish he had stayed a little bit longer and shared more of his genius. He was one of the greatest to ever come near fabric and thread (which many designers don’t even do).. a legend, one of the greatest!
I couldnt agree more, such a true talent taken from the world too soon
Low-key his history has made me shift my focus from fashion design to pattern cutting as a viable career, I love and appreciate the craftsmanship that goes behind making garments but a part of me can’t help but gravitate like a moth to a flame towards the artistry of designing with a narrative
He passed on at his peak. A true genius. Shame on you for the misleading title.
@@IoannisPapposI think she's talking about the brand.
The timing of this video couldn't be better, after Sarah's departure news! I was so disappointed back then when Sarah took over the brand and the shows were lacking the drama and theatricality. However i always watched what she presented and slowly but surely i started appreciating her skills, garments, leather jackets, color palettes, even if the shows were boring. No idea who the next designer will be, but if they wanna revive the house, he or she has to bring back the SHOCK value cleverly combined with commerciality as the great founder Alexander McQueen brilliantly did so and gained our FOREVER love, respect and devotion...🖤
Couldnt agree more, she won me over with time too and I hope the next designer could bring that drama to the brand once more. But I wonder who it could be
Congratulations my dear! Keep up the good work, you’ve been an incredible channel to watch grow ❤️ xx
I just watched the last show that Sarah did and I thought it was not only beautiful but it had Lee's spirit in it, although as you said not the genius. It is going to be almost impossible to do that because it is something that is in you.
@@MeganKeith-lh2ec I really wonder what direction are they gonna take with the new designer. Are they gonna stick with Lee's distinguished vision and tailoring or are they gonna go the opposite way? Very hard though, to beat what Sarah has brought on the runway all these years.
@@petzezos wasn't Sean McGirr announced as creative director yesterday? He made stuff at jw Anderson I think, I wonder if he will change his style up drastically for McQueen
Sarah Burton is who Chanel wanted Virginie Viard to be. I would also argue that producing commercial or stripped back collections was a necessity for the furst few seasons after McQueen's death, so the public or the fashion press (who criticise everything that moves unless they are being paid not to) would be assuaged that the brand and Gucci group were not being disrespectful. I'm not sure just how much news media reported the cause of his death but if Gucci went ahead with massive shows and big expansion so soon after his death - which was a big reason for his lack of enthusiasm about the industry - I don't think many people would countenance that.
I think you make a great point actually, there was no way for them to do big shows without him respectfully, so it was multilayered in its effectiveness. But I also think it’s commendable that she was able to produce her own aesthetic while being true to his aesthetic at the same time, that could not have been an easy thing, especially not easy to keep it commercial
"Because he was extra smart, he designed clothes that could be worn." Bold and innovative.
Youd be amazed at how unique that is 🤷 its a hard line to walk, being artistic and wearable
McQueen is my favorite designer of all time. There was an exhibition this summer in my city (the one originally created by the LACMA, Mind Mythos Muse), and it felt like Christmas being in the presence of his magnificent creations. I love your videos so much, they are incredibly well made and captivating !! I am excited for the Life of Lee video and I'm looking forward to it.
ah Melbourne lol ?
Oh thats fantastic, his work is so striking Id love to see it again, youre so lucky. Im really glad you liked the video and hopefully the life and death will be even better 🥰
It's becoming more and more frequent that I'm embarrassed by British lack of vision and willingness to invest in the future. Hand them a high-culture superstar on a plate and let them invest for virtually nothing and it's snubbed. Shameful.
Congratulations on number 50!
Oh, same, the way that Britain has handled fashion is really abysmal, of the four big global brands that we have had come from England in recent years, only one of those was not from an extremely wealthy family (Simone Rocha, Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen)
brilliant work... as always here.
sarah burton really did right by lee mcqueen and she deserves all the respect and love she received at the end of her journey with the house. i can totally agree with the commenter who said she's what chanel hoped virginie viard would have been. she's the rarest of rare designers who was able to take over a house, maintain the true essence of it's larger than life namesake, but still infuse her own personality and aesthetic. that's probably due in large part to the slow progression of her aesthetic taking the forefront as lee's disillusion increased.
here's hoping that kering takes the time and has the sensibility to continue to do the right thing by lee, by bringing someone on with a respect for the legacy of the mcqueen name and customer.
I agree, I think sarah was really able to understand lees vision so truly that when it was time to present her own vision she knew how to do that perfectly.
Who do you think will take over? I really think McQueen is one of few labels that could have the whole staff bow at the end, or just noone and have it secret kind of like a modern day Margiela. I think its one of the few brands that could get away with it
@@hamitafsaid I honestly just think it was the juxtaposition of their work. At the time McQueen was the absolute hottest designer in the world, coming off of Plato's it was undeniable, so to die at the absolute height of his fame was extremely shocking. Anyone whatsoever, trying to follow that wouldve had a very hard time becuase it wasn't 'his'
@@hamitafsaid I completely agree with you. Like the other comment who said they hated Sarah at first because it wasn't as theatrical or dramatic as Lee's work is such an ignorant amateur point of view. If Sarah had done theatrics, i think it would be so contrived and disingenuous because she will never be Lee. Doing her own interpretation of Lee's design DNA and showing it in a relatively subdued manner is much more authentic as well as more respectful to Lee's legacy. Basically, she's not trying to outdo his work which are immortal.
I really like this channel's concept of fashion analysis. This episode was really enjoyable and added a lot of my understanding of Lee McQueen and his work. I personally don't get the ousting of Sarah Burton; she had the talent and experience to continue the values and viewpoint and spirit of Lee McQueen; I could see something of him in every piece she produced.
Yeah she 100% could have continued but I guess at the end of the day its all about making money and getting in a fresh face is the easiest way to do that 🤷
I know. You did a fabulous job on this documentary. @@understitchYT
I get it because corporations suck. Once a corner needs turning, they just do it, quality goes out the window.
I’ve worked for soulless corps…different industry but they ‘act’ the same.
So true; it's all just become power and money. Maybe this is ignorant, but all the fashion designers I know about want to do their own work, not somebody else's. Selling yourself out to a corporation to try to imitate someone else sounds like a real soul sucking way to go.
I so feel you. I have many friends in this exact position where you can really the whole nightmare from the inside. @@p_nk7279
Ahhh McQueen... I have awaited for you to do this video. I respected him soooo much, but have never owned anything by him (don't know why!). I have been intrigued by him and his story since his Graduation Collection.... I admired him and his story inclusive of the legacy he left behind.
As usual, thank you so much for your research and your time. Another much appreciated video. Thank you.
Im so glad you enjoyed it! I also dont own a tonne from McQueen but I once saw a very very early mcqueen jacket, I think it was from SS94 actually, but Im sure it was made a bit later becuase of the tag, in a VINTAGE SHOP FOR £100 and I didnt buy it. Genuinely one of my biggest regrets ever, I still have the photos of it
Another great video; definitely haute couture and not pret a porter! I live in the East End of London and it is strange that so many people in the local area; Stratford in particular, are unaware that he is arguably their greatest homegrown talent. It would be good to ultimately see some form of visible and permanent tribute there as it is indeed an inspiring story, given the working class/industrial origins of the area. One final observation... I'm assuming that we can no longer say 'suicide' on UA-cam?! 'Self-unlive-ing'! That's where we've come to; avoiding words that may upset people, to create new words that mean the same thing.
I think he was brought up in Lewisham no? Also yeah McQueen would be amazing at couture
But the self unaliving terms arent to not offend people its to not offend the algorithm. Its testy at all times so we are all just trying to avoid that, it has nothing to do with offending real people
It's funny that both Lee and Galliano didn't want to be designers, but both made such a huge contribution
Its almosr like that advice from Lynn Yaeger "if you want to get into fashion learn about anything else"
Rest In Power Lee Alexander McQueen. I saw his exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria and my goodness, I was blown away. So many different influences in all his collections. The blend of east with aesthetics of punk really spoke to me. There was a section that really resonated with me. It was his spring/summer 2000 collection ‘Eye’ that really made an impact for me. As I walked into the Turkish inspired room, with a haunting rendition of classical turkish dance music blaring, I was immediately transported back to Istanbul in the year 1999 where I visited as a child. It was such a spellbinding moment. That trip to Turkey actually ignited my love for fashion. From the homemade clothing markets to the textiles factories I got to visit, I was absolutely blown away as a child. Years later, I remember wearing an embellished and jewelled headpiece at the tender age of 13 when I got to experiment more freely with fashion. I adore fashion and I believe that it’s a medium that gives you the chance to really express yourself and who you are. Not for others, but for yourself. That’s why I find it really odd when men say women dress for them when that’s totally not the case. I remember feeling energised and charged up in my bejewelled headpiece in conjunction with my silk brown flowing skirt. Fashion gives us an outlet to experiment and to dare try different things. It’s even so much more than that, words can’t really express how I feel about it and I’m sure many others feel the same. I think for a lot of people, we related to McQueens storytelling and inner conflict and creativity clashing. He was a once-in-a-lifetime creative, we will not know another McQueen. Fashion is forever in my heart as is the works and creations of Alexander McQueen.
I hope we do get another McQueen one day, I'd love to see the world of fashion and art combine once again
He was the reason I fell in love with fashion about 15 years ago... I wrote my studies degree work about his art. Which was the first one in Poland 10 years ago, where I live. Watching just a sec ago last Sarah's show was such an emotional experience... Clothes and collection so stunning, music, scenography. Lee would be really proud of Her.
I will never remember the moment I found out about him passing by, that was such a hard day. Thank you for this video and all your work. You are an unique being. Such an inspiring materials, done just from pure love. Wow. 🖤🖤🖤
He inspired a whole generation of people, an absolute genius, aren’t we so lucky to have experienced his work in real time?
@@understitchYT Totally. 🖤 Truły one of a kind.
I knew him when he use to work in Selina Blows basement in Belgravia. He was very bashful and shy!
I don’t like his clothes! I did like his menswear, I have some of his pieces! My favourites were Galliano and Margriela as well as Demulsteer
I hated those pants
Bye bye Alexander 😢 May you find the peace needed. His outro creations before his untimely death was filled with such vibrancy and oppulance. So sad to hear he departing by the endearing legacy with depression kicks in and who-knows-what issues he be getting upon. His legacy lives on... Plenty of friends and celebrities showing their support and quite instantaneously don his gowns to pay respect. Great designer imo
His funeral was particularly sad for that reason for sure, such a shame
Cool video I just looked this up because I wanted to know all about him as much as I could… I just bought $115 shades and I thought they were part of Gucci shades 😎🥂
That makes me so happy, I hope you learnt a lot
I don’t think it’s fair that she was ousted just because GG wanted a refresh of the label. She steered the brand into being commercial without losing sight of the codes of her predecessor. Lee’s genius I imagine can only go so far. The drama may be great for press but this is a business after all. It’s more frustrating that those who clearly have zero respect for their brand’s heritage are still allowed to be Creative Director in their houses (looking at you MGC).
It makes sense though, it happens in every house with every designer, extremely few are able to go from being show stopping to commercial without huge backlash from critics (even lee mcqueen got quite harsh critics when his collections went more commercial)
I think Alexander McQueen is the perfect example of a tortured artist who got successful without taking the time to heal themselves. He seemed to be a terrible person and treated all his friends horribly, so it’s hard to feel sorry for him despite knowing how he was first victimized and failed by those around him. He’s lucky in a dark way, I’m certain if he’d lived past 2016 he’d have finally gotten called out and canceled for all his awful behavior.
I think we can hold people accountable while also acknowledging poor mental health is often the reason behind people behaving badly. Please look up your local suicide crisis line information and save it to your phone for yourself or someone else.
He was such a complicated person. From the SA he saw as a child that he never recovered from to having a sense of grandeur in his talent. He did awful things and certainly in my research for his life and death video I realised how bad the things he did were, but like you said, bad actions cannot solely be blamed on a harrowed past
Plato's Atlantis....one of the most moving and spectacular things I have ever seen.
I still get emotional when I watch it. Just think what could of been 💔
Oh its phenomenal right? I regret so bad being a poor young child when it came out because I wouldve bought something
I love your videos. Thanks for covering my favorite designer. I'm surprised you didn't mention the Savage Beauty exhibition after his death was one of the V&A's most successful paid-for exhibitions.
Im keeping it for the life and death video, this one just got too long 🥰
Love listening into your channel. Would you be able to prepare a video on Isabella Blow too? I know she wasn't a fashion designer, but her role and influence in fashion was monumental (incl assisting McQ to rise).
I actually have her books, I was thinking about doing a life and death on her as well, but I didn’t know how many people would be interested
@@understitchYT I'd say there's definitely a following, from the fashion orientated people I spreak to. But she certainly was fringe, as she didn't exactly bide by the rules! Thank you all the same for your research and fantastic production into insights into the fashion world.
I read one of the bios about Isabella, but I’d be happy to see your perspective on her! Without question she was an influencer. Thank you for this beautiful work on Lee. New sub
Love love love this video! I’ve done some binge watching and finally subscribed. Still can’t understand why you don’t have millions of subscribers though, I can hear how passionate for fashion you are from your videos! ❤
Well I've only been going for a year so far, so there's still time and theres still room for my skill growth too imo. I'd like to get better at editing and better at audio too. Ill get there, but I couldn't be more thrilled with the audience I've found so far, I couldn't have asked for more :)
@@understitchYT wow, the quality of the videos is already beyond to me! Brava!
If Galliano was the genius, McQueen was GOD! Back in the days, the thrill to watched a McQueen namesake brand or Givenchy shows was epic! I was fan of Lee's work: He was raw, creative, perfectionist, conceptual, he define not only once a new fashion - siluette, he even came up with a new shape of shoe: the Armadillo Boots. Watching your exquisite video has left me speechless and not knowing were I could start 'cos now my head has exploded with teen/tween memories. Thank you for another exceptional video you scheduled perfectly to aired in such an emotional day for the brand.
The difference between the two was the McQueen was able to understand how to run a business and communicate his vision to a consumer, Galliano was literally never able to do that. They were both extremely creative and theatrical, but Gallianos refusal so do anything for his consumer was a real problem, his immaturity cost him what McQueen now has, a luxury brand that will far outlive himself
Those original pieces being stored in rubbish bags and thrown out are the stuff Greek tragedies are made of. 😮
Its pretty similar to Prometheus ngl 🤷
I thought Lee McQueen was particularly cruel to Isabella Blow.
He really was, even his friends low key blamed him for her death (at least partially blamed anyway)
I think more than the beautiful clothes thats still present, The theatrics and shocking and evoking haunting styling with ellaborate and macabre headpieces are whats causing the lack of story or intensity.. Pretty clothes are nice, but thats not what fueled his fans for the most part
Yes, Sarah was very much less theatrical, less dramatic than Lee and she also seems to do less free collaborations. For example, when Lee was alive, he would not tell the other designers around him how to do their work, he literally would not see the hats until an hour before the show for example, with Sarah, it feels more curated
Thank you for this video 👏👏👏 Sarah is an amazing designer and creative, I feel she was an editor in terms of McQueens earlier work she knew how to make it Comercial and "digestible" for fashion normies. Sarah will be missed and I hope she finds a new fashion home, she is a rare talent in knowing how to commercialize avant gande ideas that's a talent in its own
Im so glad you watched the whole thing, she really does deserve more flowers because she was so successful at exactly what she was tasked to do
@@understitchYT she really put McQueens aesthetics into a commercial form
Watching this again as a recap after Sean McGirr’s debut collection last week. There’s been a lot of hate for his new collection. I admit I have yet to adjust to it but it will take time. People say the rawness and dark elements of McQueen have gone. And part of it has, it’s a new age for the brand. People keep comparing him to Sarah Burton, but her designs were also different to Lee’s, focusing heavily on nature. In my opinion the truth is McQueen’s original artistry died with him. His genius cannot be replicated. Sarah introduced her own take on McQueen’s ideas. This was not a bad thing, change is inevitable. After 14 years it’s time for that to happen again. Excited to see where Sean will take this brand.
I think the thing for me, is that usually after period where there is a particularly creative head, there is a time of real commercialism to try to make as much money off of that memory as they can. To me, that was Sarah Burton. She was picked by McQueen, did it very commercially, and she made money for the company. I was expecting to have a new creative head at the top to take it in a dramatic direction once again, even though the name still has a lot of equity and there is still good memory of his design on which to capitalise. For some reason I was expecting that. That wasn’t delivered, instead we got an even further commercialised vision, and I think that’s where the disappointment came from.
I like to give everything three tries to convince me, food, design, art anything. So I will look forward to his next couple collections, but I can’t lie that I wasn’t disappointed
I appreciate your fashion journalism and your ability to bring to light such pertinent information that most of us are not privy to. I, as many of us, stand in tip-toe anticipation to find out who’s got next! This is very exciting!
Im so glad you enjoyed the video! Next should be Peter Do when the Banana Republic collection is released 🥰
Just saw the show an hour ago. I have been waiting for this video.
I was ready to upload so immediately after the show but I got a copyright warning so I had to re-edit a section 😓
@@understitchYT I love your videos, thank you for your hard work.
I've been looking forward to this...
i hope you liked it!!
@@understitchYT I did! Your videos are always so well researched, and you truly always come across as though you know exactly what you are talking about (probably because you do!)
You took the words right outta my mouth
Lee was above all a truly gifted and hard working artist who pursued and explored his vision, celebrated his imagination and excelled in his craft and passion beyond stardom, beyond his work and beyond his name. He was very special and it showed in his creations.
You can’t replace him with someone else, it will never be the same again.
He didn’t want his name to last forever, though, that is quite well documented, I just hope they can get someone equally as theatrical
Christian Dior's New Look, with the wasp waist, premiered in 1948, not 1958.
Yes, youre right
There is no such thing has someone being the best designer. Designers all have different styles. I think some other designers such as John Galliano, Alaia, Yohji, Miyake, Maria Grazia, Margriela, Gaultier and MUGLER are a few!
It’s also worth saying that what we consider to be good versus bad design will change over time
Putting Maria Grazia in the same sentence of the others is mad delusion
I would love if Galliano become the next MCQueen designer - that would be perfect mix for me - fashion drama, bold couture, creativity and pinch of unexpected.
Its been announced! Its Seán McGirr!!
He didn't fall. The poor man committed suicide. And the House didn't fall afterwards. It's not the same but it's thriving. No House is as good as when the original creator was in charge. But you haven't done a vid on the fall of YSL or Balenciaga. Which are clearly not as good now as when their namesakes were in charge. I understand the whole rise and fall thing is your schtick for getting clicks. But it's wildly inappropriate and incorrect with McQueen. Do better.
You need to watch the video, I did a vote for the name of the video, rise and fall won out quite a lot. I quite explicitly talk about how marvellous Sarah was though and am very complimentary towards her. Do better.
I can’t believe you can’t say the word suicide are we fucking children I think it’s disrespectful to the victims
Its because of the algorithm, not because of offending people
@@understitchYT because it suppresses videos that use that word. I know you’re not being disrespectful I’m literally your number one fan. It’s just a trend I’ve noticed in a lot of videos and I respect you giving yourself every chance to get known. I’m just saying it’s an annoying feature of UA-cam.
'Unliving' why is suicide being refeenced this way now?
its for the algorithm, we dont want to be demonetised. Imagine going to work for a month and then getting told you can't get paid because you said a word a computer doesnt like
Your content quality and narrating skills make me interested in fashion. And I have literally zero interest in fashion. Just black tshirts and black trousers type of interest.
Respect and greetings from Greece
That makes me so happy, thank you so much
The Armadillo shoes were designed by Georgina Goodman
Very interesting thank you
I hope they appoint Dilara Fındıkoğlu as the new creative director, she would be so respectful to his memory, and is the perfect fit
Only posted two hours ago, and it’s already aged 😂
I thought she would have suited it as well
@@citizen3079 So did I
John Galliano should be the new creative director
Omg plot twist of the century (would be fucking iconic tho)
No one is more worthy than him. But I doubt he will accept, both been compared and rivals and are equals that it would be awkward... it's like if Karl took over Saint Laurent.
Amazing content as always, well researched and immersive... If you ever find time or interest, try to cover some Japanese designers or brands - not saying this as a knock to any of your current content but quite the opposite; I am interested and, considering your dedication and approach, you're the person I want to 'learn from' (haha)...
I very very much want to do japanese brands, theyll likely come around a similar time tho too because there will be a lot of cultural research to do
For me it the rise and rise of Alexander McQueen i think sarah burton was the perfect successor she did very well to keep his legacy going. Btw great video as always ❤
I’m so glad you like it, for me personally, I also think it was a rise and rise, but there’s certainly an argument to be made because of how different the presentations were, I think that’s why the vote went the way it did
Thank you for this video. So informative as usual and beautifully put together. ❤
Im so glad you enjoyed it, thank you for commenting
I love McQueen runways, it really paints a new reality in front of you. It was a great video to remember all his work.
Im so glad you got to relive them 🥰
Of all the videos I have watched about Lee in the last couple of years, this was the best. I would even venture to say it is even more informative than, or at least supplementary to, the 2018 documentary. Very well researched, elegant, and simply enjoyable to watch! Superb job on this video essay! Immediate subscribe.
Thank you so much! I loved that documentary so thats a huge compliment, but i cant wait for you to see the life and death video because its even more information jammed in
I'm looking forward to it! Can't wait!!!@@understitchYT
3500 for the og bumsters is such a fcking steal my god
RIGHT?! I bet whoever sold them regret getting rid of them so bad
McQueen WILL make a FULL ON COMEBACK and it will break necks!
I extremely extremely hope so (and expect so too)
Correct me if I'm wrong, first I do understand each designer is going to have the wow/shock factor for the shows, but because people are going so minimal or because of the big resale surge any style is pretty much in, why is it such a big deal if these designers just have the resale lines more of (in realty) no one will likely wear the way out show lines anyway?🤔
Don't you mean "the rise and rise of Alexander McQueen" i don't remember him ever falling...
I feel like I was pretty clear on the title in the video
yes you did, you can also call a shirt a jacket but doesn't make it a jacket...roles eyes and takes a sip@@understitchYT
Through by bestie who is a NY stylist for the younger set of ladies who lunch, I know that the members of that set, who are a little more interesting, who want to have a little more edge, they relied heavily on Sarah Burton, on her tailoring, and her evening looks. Tears wear shed when she left!!
Also it was important to them, and should be important to everyone, that a woman was designing clothes for women. Sure, they are women from this very rich set that rely on the male gaze, and there are plenty of male designers who provide clothes to satisfy that. But for the independent women with their own wealth, they were devoted to Burton. DEVOTED!!
I’ve also found it interesting that some of the independent ones have started to buy Daniel Del Core. A little unknown still I think, despite his years under Michele at Gucci, but I think he has the cum lumine approach to fashion, like Burton, and with an edge. I’d love to see him at McQueen! But I think he’s focused on his own business, which seems to have ample funding so he probably doesn’t need a second job like Lee at Givenchy…
She made really wonderful clothes for exactly that market, and there us certainly enough demand for her style of work. Daniels work is along the same lines, I totally see where that connection came from, and I think he has said that McQueen was an inspiration to him before, no?
Either way, Sarah will be very dearly missed
Idk but I know who to ask. I’ll get back to you;)
Would be amazing if John Galliano took over McQueen as creative director. Both are amazing in their craft.
Surely I did not just hear you say “unaliving” 🙃 what a sanitized term of phrase to describe a tragedy
the algorithm is all powerful, one must comply with monetisation bots 🤖
My fave designer. Nowhere near as good since his death
Still good just running a different rave
Another exquisitely researched video! What do you think fueled the press’ dislike of McQueen? I was hoping you’d talk a bit about that
100% it was classism but isabella wasnt wrong that his personal appearance didnt help with that. He apparently smelled, had gingivitis and dressed in a way that played into their classist beliefs. Its not his fault, of course, but all of that didnt help in the flagrant classism
@@understitchYT Yeah, and I suspect his mutual and vocal criticism of them didn’t help either (lol). Thanks for clarifying
Amazing documentary congratulations! I have been a fan of Lee and his art since I was a teenager. I was able to purchase a skull scarf a few years ago and it is my favorite most treasured accessory.
I think the life and death video will be coming out this weekend, so I hope you enjoy that too 🥰
I want a ‘Rise and Fall and Rise’ haha of Kate Moss!
I have an art project in mind re Kate Moss, garnering inspo from the many images of her still to be found around NYC.
It's definitely on the books, Im actually trying to work with Chani Ra who is a tiktokker that covers models careers, simply because she knows more than me, so Im quite excited for our partnership if that does come to fruition
I still have magazines with her on the cover from 2006, when I was 15 years-old. She had such a fascination for both my generation and the one before us. It’s impossible to explain how cool Kate Moss would seem to an American teenager. Even wear blue or green Wellington boots from Saks Fifth Avenue when it rains to this day. I get them as Christmas presents sometimes. And my husband is obsessed with the McQueen skull print scarf. Kate Moss was so unrivaled. Back then we loved NOT knowing what was going on with alluring, talented people. And Kate was the best at not explaining herself or worrying about rumours!
I'm not well-versed in fashion, but I can't think of anyone to take his place. Designers seem to be more on-the-ground and less "decadent" nowadays.
It will definitely be a tough decision
To understand in gist what this film is all about, all you have to do is look at the manner in which this designer died. His creations came from a dark place with reference to the novels of H.P. Lovecraft. Cthulu and Nyarlathotep, the crawling chaos.
He said that his soul was darkened at a young age
i absolutely love this channel and how informative it is. very informative and entertaining, just like how Tim Blanks was on Fashion File when he hosted.
Oh I love tim blanks, tysm for the comparison
When you next get to London, I hope you can get to the Design Museum in Holland Park. The Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion has a small room where they try to recreate the lost show. It’s pretty fascinating.
I would love to see it honestly, it looks amazing from Ungless’ videos
Un-Aliving wtF have we come to??? you tube’s f*ing Fascists
Fun fashion fact - Tom Ford directed an amazing movie: ‘A Single Man’ starring Colin Firth, who was nominated for an Oscar! Great flick, I recommend it.
Such crossover talent, I’m floored…
I have a video on his brand :)
Your commentry is always very insightful thank you!
mcqueen has such a quintessential fashion story, so much to feel about and take from for anyone starting to get into fashion or even deep in it. Appreciate the work and cited sources as always. Congrats on the 50th brand covered I’ll be here for the 100th
I really agree, he was an amazing designer, bloody fantastic, business person, and seem to always know how to make that longevity in his business. Just brilliant
Hey thanks for this great information
And please release the longer version.
The short version of his life and death isnt even out yet 😂😂 but Ill still take it as my first vote nonetheless
My prediction is that Dilara will take over McQueen, especially if they want to go bigger. She is a rising star and her dark aesthetic and presentation is reminiscent of Lee's work.
Theyve named a successor! Its Seán McGill!
I wished that he had sought out therapy, instead of using his demons to fuel his creativity.
“This video is INFORMED by”
This video is the literal plagiarism of others work.
What are you on about? I dont think you understand what plagiarism is, nothing is copied at all. Not even close
Please don't use the word "unalive" to ameliorate "suicide". It's uncomfortable, it's often violent, bit we have to talk about it and not let TikTok brainwash us into using the kiddy word. You can use the proper language with a content warning with hotline numbers and helpful resources. But don't kiddify it.
Not talking about it won't make it better.
It's trying to appease the algorithm, nothing more. Imagine putting the months of research that I put into this to have a computer decide I can't earn a penny from it. It's rough, and theres not much I can do if they do that. So, for now these are the words we've got
thank you so much for yours inspiring videos! im a fashion design students and words cant underline how much youre channel is helpfull ❤
Im so glad you enjoy them 🥰
Fashionistas are a twisted lot
Creatives are often haunted, its a shame that thats where so much beauty comes from
Just to say Thanks for replying to my comments, fascinating vids and I’m enjoying so much!
I try so hard to reply to all comments, but I dont get notifications for them all, its quite annoying actually, because I love comments
What's your opinion about Bjork's kimono designed by A.M. in Homogenic?
This sounds like a leading question 🤔
McQueen was a genius fr, the fact of his first show being
for his sister is beautiful
It was such a shame the way the media span that, but it was definitely intentional, so I can’t say it was that much of a shame
Thanks!
Youre the best ❤️❤️❤️❤️
OMG this video is so rich in information, THANK YOU.
Youre verh welcome, I love doing it all 🥰
JW Anderson.
Ive got a video on him!
Thank you for this episode, Alexander McQueen is my favourite fashion house!
Im so glad you enjoyed it 😇
His earlier work was phenomenal, the later (‘renaissance’ as noted in this video) was much more conventional.
Sad that one week after his mom died, he did the same. Tragic.
Completely tragic I agree, such an incredible talent now gone
Those catwalk spots were wonderful
Love your videos. You think you can do content on Maison Margiela since Galliano took over?
I relly really want to
Yet another brilliant video on such an icon. Thank you for doing it) Btw because Mcqueen was citied in the previous videos I thought we already had a video about Mcqueen)). Heh
I’ve been working on it for six months that’s why 😂
Woke up this morning to this beauty. What a great job you did again, again,and this time for 46.05 minutes! I have huge respect for Mcqueen going back to my youth in the 1990’s and have seen the documentries flotting around, but your video is by far the best and most relatable. Well done again, again!
Im so glad you enjoyed it! Theres a looootttt of content on McQueen, even full real documentaries are on YT, but everyone loves him so I cant complain 😅
I feel these later seasons 2015-2023 is nit bad in the least but I think lacks the Drama or story’s we could see Lee present, I love these new siluettes and more normal looks but…I really hope we get a bring back of the spectacular presentations in the future, like we can see now so manny Caleb’s in archive McQ and Beyoncé on tour
I do think it’s purposefully lacking that drama, though, I think that’s exactly what she was tasked to do. But now that she has gone I expect we’ll go back to that.
@@understitchYT yes yes exactly, she was tasked to do that but I still prefer her earliest shows 11-14, and I hope we get some if these McQ roots back now in the future
I think Riccardo Tisci could be named as successor. He has built up a reputation and is a big enough name to fill in the gap. Also his aesthetic is fitting, when I think back what he did for Givenchy woman
yeah maybe, but I really didnt enjoy his Givenchy, just personally, so I low key hope not
Sad loss of life. His designs were bloody awful & for anorexics. He did not design for women but a male version of it
He had a brute force idea of feminism. He truly believed women should be strong, but his idea of that was for them to punch a guy in the face. It's not a view for everyone
Between Patreon and UA-cam, this is my third time through this excellent video! I learn something new each time. Thank you❤️
Im so glad you love it, tysm. I hope youre enjoying the life video too, Im working on it bit by bit but the next part should be coming soon (chapter 6)
I am!! Looking forward to the next part.
Lee and McQueen as a brand, is one those things that are unique in a lifetime, his artistry and genius is UNMATCHED, and I only can think of one or two people that rival Lees genius today.
I totally agree, extremely few others have ever done whT he has
@@understitchYT no other designer can say what Lee di through his collections. You hit it perfectly by saying people took his collections at face value without understanding the true meaning behind it, even when specifically pointed to it. To me, the ultimate form of couture is taking the clothes you design and let them speak for themselves, expressing everything you want to say with them, not just a shock value gimmick that puts you on the map, and that's what most designers do, at least the majority that have opportunities with the big houses/brands, and that's what making current couture fashion more of a better quality version of fast fashion, instead of the artistry that, to me, ended in the late '00s.
I’ve always assumed McQueen would roll over in his grave if he saw his name on Burton’s old-lady awful design revisions for Kate Middleton.
God no, he really relied on her work immensely
The Princess of Wales reliably sells out designs she wears, because she makes them look fantastic. She makes it a point to support British designers.
I’ve been patiently waiting for this video to drop!
Next time impatient 😂😂
Thank you so much for this video. I love it!
Im so glad you enjoyed it
I'm not really into fashion, but I really like was McQueen was creating, which hard a darker aesthetic. Really enjoyed his choice of music for his shows, too.
His shows feel so real and authentic in a way like no other
Suicide is now called unaliving. Who knew?!!!
The algorithm doesn't like it, so we need a new word and language changes 🤷
i love my idol, thank you dear for this little documentary, my favorite collecion was her last theafter her death the angels and death collection iconic and many more like platos atlantis, especialy from 2005-to date :D
She really is such a talented designer, I hope that she gets more chance to shine at another label (if she wants that, of course)
@@understitchYT i hope to, to be honest after mcqueens death, it was difficult to accept mcqueen collections with Burton, in rhe first collections i say "this is Not mçqueen" the theatrical was missing. But after years, i told "okay" especialy the Red Rose dress was my burtons favorite.
And hope to shine in another Label or her own Label .
I wish you don't use Lee photo as thumbnail as he was a shining star for his whole life as the creative lead for his own brand… Sarah is good but maybe not as competitive as the other brands in the recent decade.…..
I did do a vote and the one of them together lost out pretty hard
Yeah! I remember that one but didn't notice the title will be rise and FALL at the time
Rise, Fall and Rise again of…
Hmmm... I see who inspired some of balenciaga's kit😅
alexander mcQueef
As always an amazing video! I loved Sarah Burton's work, I was hoping for more!
Im glad you like it, tysm, I honestly wasnt a huge fan at first but she really won me over after her first couple collections and I ended up being a huge admirer
@@understitchYT I always respected that she kept the brand's core and identity without copying Lee's imagery or sacrificing her individual vision. Such a hard task for a brand as conceptual as McQueen!