Thanks for the interesting video . Another item worth checking when chasing poor starting aand running issues on the Ranger is the micro fine filter in the banjo bolt at the HP fuel pump inlet. They are difficult to clean effectively so replacement may be a better option. Thanks again.
I have a 2002 Mazda Bounty b2500 and even after replacing the main fuel filter, it still wouldn't rev above 2500rpm. Turns out the problem was the mini basket fuel filter you mention under the banjo bolt was clogged. Removed it and cleaned it up and the ute now runs like a dream. I'd be surprised if many people know about this filter, even a lot of mechanics don't. An easy 10 minute thing to check and fix. Cheers
i enjoyed your simplistic view and really like the resistor tool, however you need to understand that the rail is a manifold so the pressure and flow are equal at the inlet from pump and all the injector outlets. the rails large volume is to act as an accumulator to negate the pressure spikes during various injection events. great video. thanks
Cheers Mate Actually the fuel rail return regulator is what I nearly always go to first if the engine wont start and I suspect low pressure . Super common problem with a multitude of engine fuel systems in my experience and I even have spare blanking plugs in me box for this reason. This is only for testing and to confirm where the faults are and get the clients home scenarios till further testing and repairs can be performed . In the extreme fuel mods game, for extra power this regulator is often replaced with a simple plug so the tuners can bump the pressure to the max in a effort to gain power without the std regulator blowing. Great in depth video but the engine runs with you trying to talk was too much to bear and had to turn down the sound but I could guess and work out what you were saying. Maybe do a re edit to the video and do a voice over with the engine running clips. Also with these BT50's another hard and sometimes very hard starting issue is an apparent crank and cam sensor fault that is not actually at fault. The crank and cam sensors show up as codes and if read with live view often show up with bad data but once the engine is started , the engine runs and performs properly as well as true and correct live data. The true cause of this can sometimes be a bad starter which is commonly noted by trades people in the know , but I have found in most cases the earth and positive cables are shot at the starter and even 3-4" away from the starter and do not show any apparent visual signs of damage or heat. The cables are "Micky Mouse"in my opinion and I replace them with decent properly spec cable and soldered terminals. I just run new battery cables from battery to starter as well as a decent separate earth to the engine block The replacement makes the engine start like never before.
> @ScatManAust - fuel rail return regulator... Super common problem... I even have spare blanking plugs in me box for this reason. Seems they wouldn't be useful anyway: > @a1mechanicaloakey639 - On the question on can we block off the return relief. Answer on this car is no because its under really high pressure so normal hose and clamp will not hold.
Very informative! I have ford 2014 same engine that your fixing, crank but no start, when i open the high pressure line and rail there is no fuelat all. Is it posible that my High Pressure pump is broken? TIA
If you are going to do a live repair, please don't say you found something off-camera, it defeats the purpose of a very long video. Pulling an injector connector is a part of a good quick diagnosis, what can it hurt, what do people say, why it's bad? Hydrolock, how many injectors spray full time when the tip is blown out or when they leak, don't injectors have a return spring built in to default them to the closed position, the electricity does not close it, it only opens a solenoid which is what an injector is in reality, the spring closes it with help from fuel pressure pushing in the close direction also, this is how you know by viewing on a scope if the spring is broken inside, WTF people. Also mate, if you zoom in on a single or a few amp ramp waveforms on one screen you will see the pintle opening in the injector as this has diagnostic value along with the previously mentioned, spring movement time as a broken spring will allow the pintle to open sooner or advanced or to the left of a normal pintle opening time. Of course, you may not have any pintle movement at all showing a working electrically but not mechanically injector. While watching the video I noticed that your scan tool does an auto-adjust depending on what it's actually measuring, kpa or mpa, in the beginning, there was some confusion, I think that is cleared up now as your tool can only output 3 digits LOL. Always use your battery as your ground 99% of the time, the battery is ground, all other ground electrons flow back to the battery and the battery also acts as a capacitor and helps to smooth out any noise you may have on the scope trace, as mentioned before on another one of your videos, sometimes noise is a good thing. The signal wire does not have a 5VRef, it's a 5V bias voltage for the ECU to monitor for a broken wire, if broken or shorted you should get a code for this reason. This is why you don't test connectors unplugged and unloaded. You have a 4 channel scope, I would also monitor the ground wire for ground loss problems, just in case. Actually, a Voltage Drop problem of more than 0.1V. Your camera is nice and you use the zoom but you keep bumping into the tripod many times, I would think you can move it further away and zoom into your work? I am thinking about it at 55:00, the quick start spray gets it to start because the engine spins faster during cranking as the spray explodes in the cylinders one and all, momentarily taking the place of good fuel pressure with proper fuel delivery, helping with cranking speed and your weak battery is taken out of the picture?? Thank you for the tutorial, I think when I get a job like this I will remove all rubber return/bypass hoses and look for a leak like that on step number ONE. Another thumbs up mate. What we did not see in the video and I must assume you inspected #2 fuel injector amp wave as I saw the harness was also cut open and maybe there was no injector pulse during the no start since the fuel pressure was too low. I am also thinking that you can plug off the pressure relief return hose with a metal braided hose set up to see if the motor will start by blocking off this leaking fuel??? Is there also a way to make a plug for a fitting back there also? I love this software you have to swap from one video clip to another clip, can I ask where did you get this? I can also see that you edited your video and put scenes in a different order from what you recorded them so I know you take extra time to put together a good show, much appreciated. spiderwebuntangled@gmail.com
On the question on can we block off the return relief. Answer on this car is no because its under really high pressure so normal hose and clamp will not hold. Depends on the setup on the relief valve, it has to be metal screw fitting in order to block it off. The video editing software I use is filmora. Thanks you
Hahaha.. Im not a mechanic..but thank you for sharing a video for more people to get some ideas.. Of course consider all techniques or strategies when doing a mechanic work...just like an carpenter,mason.and the engr...they ahave their own ability to build a house..but the goal is to build and operate...just like in your video..
Hi Darren please don't forget to subscribe. And to answer your question, because of pressure loss from leaking releif valve, the ecu is not turning the injectors on while cranking. Ecu won't fire injectors when there is not enough pressure in the rail. So the back leak return line will not have any fuel coming out if the injectors aren't turned on. I know it's little complicated but if you goggle how diesel injector works, you will know what I'm talking about. Just remember no injector turn on then no back flow. Cheers.
My Ford Problem vehicle would not start on occasion key off try again and start ok . It was like it ran out off fuel spent 6mths at a dealer, starter upgraded version uses 60-80 amps less ,old starter motor caused crank angle sensor to trigger , .Claimed battery was at fault --it lasted another 5 years LOL Either main ecu internal relay or fuel pressure relief was at fault . Ford changed injectors ,must have been seeing fault in injectors [what your experiencing ] also 300kms to a tank . Local diesel place say these press reliefs do not reseal but leak constantly once faulty .
@@DJ-tn7vj What do u base this on ?? When slow cranking it triggered the crank angle but fixed with later faster starter . Friend of mine has the cam angle issue at the moment it goes into limp mode even thou the loom checked and sensor replaced , code still comes up .
@@paulthompson8480 experience working on Ford Ranger. Plus was just mentioning it because one of my guys had a similar issue last week with an aftermarket cam and crank. Stalling, long crank, no start issue. If you have a scope, you can just check it out if you dont have any DTCs present. Just a suggestion
@@DJ-tn7vj My ute has no codes but still randomly has a long crank no start. My friends Bt50 3.oltr wiring checked crank sensor replaced still goes to limp mode and sends crank sensor code . But his was done at different dealer . Dealers have little clue . Ya think they could run a scope but nope to dumb . If it does not register when running they have no idea because they only read there scan tool DOH. These donot register till running . Only a scope will pick ""no engine/ecu fireup"" but still crank issue . Its come to 2 items either no fuel pressure or ecu does not become live . But hey I should work at Ford . .
Hi A1 I was wondering where you bought the fuel rail part I have the same problem, with the diesel coming out the return fuel line when cranking it, and was wondering where to buy the common rail a whole?
I have a Mazda 2011 2.5l diesel turbo. I watched this helpful video & have a very similar situation (very little fuel coming out the return line, fuel at primer pump & fuel comes out when I hand pump it, fuel coming out injector line 1 when cranking) but the difference is when I spray the Autostart in the intercooler inlet it starts but stops after I stop spraying!! I feel it’s a fuel pressure issue? If it was injectors it wouldn’t start?? If it was in tank fuel pump there wouldn’t be fuel coming out the fuel rail? Could it be anything else? Kind Regards Vic
Check high pressure fuel reading with scan tool while cranking and also check injector control with scope. Also you didn't eliminate possibily of injector by spraying autostart.
Yes whole thing. I couldn't buy just the valve locally. If there is leak I don't think there anything you can use to hold the pressure. It's going to blow the hose off. But you shouldn't see any fuel there at all time if the system is normal.
Last time I checked I couldn't find it anymore. Jaycar used to sell it in Australia. But there's plenty of other types of resistance box you can buy online.
@@a1mechanicaloakey639 yeah I saw that he discontinued it. If you find a link with one. Can you post it. Thanks. Will keep looking for on. I use a 5v box for testing with various test lights but looking for one that could varies
www.ebay.com.au/itm/175345383843?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=crkb03zdqro&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=C401-mH7RoC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY This is the cheapest option but only goes from 0 to 9999 ohm. It's a handy tool to have. I got one myself. Can do airbag system and various other many sensor testing. May have limitation as it's only up to 9,999 ohms.
wonderful job sir, I would like to ask you some thing I have a ford 2008 model, same engine like that one in the video, it was so dirty and I decided to wash it with water but after washing I started it and it ran for like 5 minutes then stopped ,from then I have tried all I can to make it start but it has refused to catch up, its like fuel is not moving well . May I you please help me, what may be the problem to this engine, thank you
It going to be a challenging one. I would check all the fuses first and pump fuel at the filter and from there you gonna need expert to check what you missing. Injector pulse or communication error etc.
Hello, I have a ford ranger with the same engine and the same issues as the one in this video, I had fuel coming through the relief valve while cranking, I changed the valve with a know good one and same issue, long long crank to start, if i spray starter fluid into the intake, the van starts and idles. Did changing this valve fix the issues on this van ?
Good morning please i have a kia Sorrento diesel engine the car does not start but when i check fuel is not coming from the high speed pump,fuel come from the low pressure hand pump please what will be the problem
If the fuel not coming out of injection pump then more than likely pump is bad or chain or belt drive system. But you have to know what you doing because pump doesn't have lot of volume so could be mistaken for no fuel. There's high pressure though. It's a job for professionals.
Can someone help. I have a 2007 mazda bt 50. New pcm , Good continuity in wiring from injectors to pcm, getting code P0204. Swapped #1 & #4 injectors around and still getting same code P0204 (open circuit cylinder 4).
@@a1mechanicaloakey639 I assume so. When the mechanic swapped 1 & 4 injectors around we were hoping code p0204 would change to p0201 . Thankyou for your reply
Do you have any current coming on that circuit? If no current, swapped injector, good continuity in the both wore to ecu. Then nothing left. More than likely ecu is at fault. but again I haven't seen the car. I don't know the test that carries out it valid or not.
Good day, ive got a problem with my ford ranger 2.2L engine crank no start, gettin scanned nothing found DTC, can you help me with this thanks in advance
The most painful diagnostic ever...i hope the truck was done in two hours.....not days You lack knowledge of the system and tools. I hope that your truck
I'm trying to do training video, therefore I usually show few extra steps so it covers whole scenario because not everytime it's the same reason for same symptoms. That's why video is long plus I need to explain every bit. But you can elaborate where I'm missing knowledge. With tools yes I don't have everything when I need them and no body does. It's how you make available resources useful that's where the skill is at. Every model and makes are welcome at my shop so I don't know what tools I may need.
You are try to train how, the customer or the technician In bought cases you are off with you tooling and diagnostic...go back to your drawing board....get your information spot on first.....
You smart a smart Mac , don't entertain stupid people who don't appreciate Your informative videos. You legend Mate .
I learn alot from You A1
Thanks for the interesting video . Another item worth checking when chasing poor starting aand running issues on the Ranger is the micro fine filter in the banjo bolt at the HP fuel pump inlet. They are difficult to clean effectively so replacement may be a better option. Thanks again.
I have a 2002 Mazda Bounty b2500 and even after replacing the main fuel filter, it still wouldn't rev above 2500rpm. Turns out the problem was the mini basket fuel filter you mention under the banjo bolt was clogged. Removed it and cleaned it up and the ute now runs like a dream. I'd be surprised if many people know about this filter, even a lot of mechanics don't. An easy 10 minute thing to check and fix. Cheers
i enjoyed your simplistic view and really like the resistor tool, however you need to understand that the rail is a manifold so the pressure and flow are equal at the inlet from pump and all the injector outlets. the rails large volume is to act as an accumulator to negate the pressure spikes during various injection events. great video. thanks
I learned so much from this video on crank no start diagnostic. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Pleasure
Man just stumbled on your video. Got my butt kicked by this same issue a few months back. Liked how you diagnose it
Captivating video, clear concise reasoning using available tools, arrived at a solid conclusion and Success!
Learnt so much on this video thanks so much for the information
You can check the high pressure pump with a mechanical injector also
Cheers Mate
Actually the fuel rail return regulator is what I nearly always go to first if the engine wont start and I suspect low pressure .
Super common problem with a multitude of engine fuel systems in my experience and I even have spare blanking plugs in me box for this reason.
This is only for testing and to confirm where the faults are and get the clients home scenarios till further testing and repairs can be performed .
In the extreme fuel mods game, for extra power this regulator is often replaced with a simple plug so the tuners can bump the pressure to the max in a effort to gain power without the std regulator blowing.
Great in depth video but the engine runs with you trying to talk was too much to bear and had to turn down the sound but I could guess and work out what you were saying.
Maybe do a re edit to the video and do a voice over with the engine running clips.
Also with these BT50's another hard and sometimes very hard starting issue is an apparent crank and cam sensor fault that is not actually at fault.
The crank and cam sensors show up as codes and if read with live view often show up with bad data but once the engine is started , the engine runs and performs properly as well as true and correct live data.
The true cause of this can sometimes be a bad starter which is commonly noted by trades people in the know , but I have found in most cases the earth and positive cables are shot at the starter
and even 3-4" away from the starter and do not show any apparent visual signs of damage or heat.
The cables are "Micky Mouse"in my opinion and I replace them with decent properly spec cable and soldered terminals.
I just run new battery cables from battery to starter as well as a decent separate earth to the engine block
The replacement makes the engine start like never before.
Yeah thanks for the comment and tips.
I apologise for the sound quality, I have wireless mic now so it shouldn't be a drama in future videos.
Bro I replace scv in supply pump but still no start
@@myralunacadavos9742 yes bro watch the full video. There's every test you need to know on crdi.
Ok vedio
> @ScatManAust - fuel rail return regulator... Super common problem... I even have spare blanking plugs in me box for this reason.
Seems they wouldn't be useful anyway:
> @a1mechanicaloakey639 - On the question on can we block off the return relief. Answer on this car is no because its under really high pressure so normal hose and clamp will not hold.
Tanks very much body exelelent video .
Very good info!! Thanks alot man
Thank you for your time and help what scan tool is that ?
Very informative!
I have ford 2014 same engine that your fixing, crank but no start, when i open the high pressure line and rail there is no fuelat all. Is it posible that my High Pressure pump is broken?
TIA
Great explanation
Thanks my brother it's nice
If you are going to do a live repair, please don't say you found something off-camera, it defeats the purpose of a very long video. Pulling an injector connector is a part of a good quick diagnosis, what can it hurt, what do people say, why it's bad? Hydrolock, how many injectors spray full time when the tip is blown out or when they leak, don't injectors have a return spring built in to default them to the closed position, the electricity does not close it, it only opens a solenoid which is what an injector is in reality, the spring closes it with help from fuel pressure pushing in the close direction also, this is how you know by viewing on a scope if the spring is broken inside, WTF people. Also mate, if you zoom in on a single or a few amp ramp waveforms on one screen you will see the pintle opening in the injector as this has diagnostic value along with the previously mentioned, spring movement time as a broken spring will allow the pintle to open sooner or advanced or to the left of a normal pintle opening time. Of course, you may not have any pintle movement at all showing a working electrically but not mechanically injector. While watching the video I noticed that your scan tool does an auto-adjust depending on what it's actually measuring, kpa or mpa, in the beginning, there was some confusion, I think that is cleared up now as your tool can only output 3 digits LOL. Always use your battery as your ground 99% of the time, the battery is ground, all other ground electrons flow back to the battery and the battery also acts as a capacitor and helps to smooth out any noise you may have on the scope trace, as mentioned before on another one of your videos, sometimes noise is a good thing. The signal wire does not have a 5VRef, it's a 5V bias voltage for the ECU to monitor for a broken wire, if broken or shorted you should get a code for this reason. This is why you don't test connectors unplugged and unloaded. You have a 4 channel scope, I would also monitor the ground wire for ground loss problems, just in case. Actually, a Voltage Drop problem of more than 0.1V. Your camera is nice and you use the zoom but you keep bumping into the tripod many times, I would think you can move it further away and zoom into your work? I am thinking about it at 55:00, the quick start spray gets it to start because the engine spins faster during cranking as the spray explodes in the cylinders one and all, momentarily taking the place of good fuel pressure with proper fuel delivery, helping with cranking speed and your weak battery is taken out of the picture?? Thank you for the tutorial, I think when I get a job like this I will remove all rubber return/bypass hoses and look for a leak like that on step number ONE. Another thumbs up mate.
What we did not see in the video and I must assume you inspected #2 fuel injector amp wave as I saw the harness was also cut open and maybe there was no injector pulse during the no start since the fuel pressure was too low. I am also thinking that you can plug off the pressure relief return hose with a metal braided hose set up to see if the motor will start by blocking off this leaking fuel??? Is there also a way to make a plug for a fitting back there also?
I love this software you have to swap from one video clip to another clip, can I ask where did you get this? I can also see that you edited your video and put scenes in a different order from what you recorded them so I know you take extra time to put together a good show, much appreciated. spiderwebuntangled@gmail.com
On the question on can we block off the return relief. Answer on this car is no because its under really high pressure so normal hose and clamp will not hold. Depends on the setup on the relief valve, it has to be metal screw fitting in order to block it off.
The video editing software I use is filmora.
Thanks you
very help full video
Thank you
Hahaha..
Im not a mechanic..but thank you for sharing a video for more people to get some ideas..
Of course consider all techniques or strategies when doing a mechanic work...just like an carpenter,mason.and the engr...they ahave their own ability to build a house..but the goal is to build and operate...just like in your video..
Thank you Dennis. Please do support channel by hitting that subscribe button.
Were was the location the parts be replaced tq
I have the same engine and injector 1 is also not contributing ... sound does not change when i unplug
Thanks for the video.
Why did fuel not come out the return line at #1 when you checked early in the video.
Cheers, Darren
Hi Darren please don't forget to subscribe. And to answer your question, because of pressure loss from leaking releif valve, the ecu is not turning the injectors on while cranking. Ecu won't fire injectors when there is not enough pressure in the rail. So the back leak return line will not have any fuel coming out if the injectors aren't turned on. I know it's little complicated but if you goggle how diesel injector works, you will know what I'm talking about. Just remember no injector turn on then no back flow. Cheers.
My ranger starts but won't rev over 2300 and shows a MAF sensor fault but I changed it and still no good
My Ford Problem vehicle would not start on occasion key off try again and start ok . It was like it ran out off fuel spent 6mths at a dealer, starter upgraded version uses 60-80 amps less ,old starter motor caused crank angle sensor to trigger , .Claimed battery was at fault --it lasted another 5 years LOL
Either main ecu internal relay or fuel pressure relief was at fault . Ford changed injectors ,must have been seeing fault in injectors [what your experiencing ] also 300kms to a tank .
Local diesel place say these press reliefs do not reseal but leak constantly once faulty .
Check your crank and cam signal. Use OEM sensors if replacing
@@DJ-tn7vj What do u base this on ?? When slow cranking it triggered the crank angle but fixed with later faster starter .
Friend of mine has the cam angle issue at the moment it goes into limp mode even thou the loom checked and sensor replaced , code still comes up .
@@paulthompson8480 experience working on Ford Ranger. Plus was just mentioning it because one of my guys had a similar issue last week with an aftermarket cam and crank. Stalling, long crank, no start issue. If you have a scope, you can just check it out if you dont have any DTCs present. Just a suggestion
@@DJ-tn7vj My ute has no codes but still randomly has a long crank no start.
My friends Bt50 3.oltr wiring checked crank sensor replaced still goes to limp mode and sends crank sensor code . But his was done at different dealer . Dealers have little clue . Ya think they could run a scope but nope to dumb . If it does not register when running they have no idea because they only read there scan tool DOH. These donot register till running . Only a scope will pick ""no engine/ecu fireup"" but still crank issue . Its come to 2 items either no fuel pressure or ecu does not become live . But hey I should work at Ford .
.
@@paulthompson8480 i feel ya bro. Yeah putting a scope on it and obtaining a capture will be ideal when its acting up
Hi sir how are you am have the car same problem is Ford ranger 2.5 diesel 2009 model
Hi A1 I was wondering where you bought the fuel rail part I have the same problem, with the diesel coming out the return fuel line when cranking it, and was wondering where to buy the common rail a whole?
I bought it from cooldrive
I had a similar problem with mine and it turned out to be a fried chip on the ECU..
I have a Mazda 2011 2.5l diesel turbo. I watched this helpful video & have a very similar situation (very little fuel coming out the return line, fuel at primer pump & fuel comes out when I hand pump it, fuel coming out injector line 1 when cranking) but the difference is when I spray the Autostart in the intercooler inlet it starts but stops after I stop spraying!! I feel it’s a fuel pressure issue? If it was injectors it wouldn’t start?? If it was in tank fuel pump there wouldn’t be fuel coming out the fuel rail? Could it be anything else?
Kind Regards
Vic
Check high pressure fuel reading with scan tool while cranking and also check injector control with scope. Also you didn't eliminate possibily of injector by spraying autostart.
Can you tell me which pressure scan tool & injector scope tool to buy?
Any for this job
Do you no what size fitting you used to block the fuel rail off
Nope. M14 something I guess. Just measure the fuel rail outlets.
did you replace the whole high pressure fuel rail? can you test pressure or starting the engine by plugging off the fuel return line?
Yes whole thing. I couldn't buy just the valve locally. If there is leak I don't think there anything you can use to hold the pressure. It's going to blow the hose off. But you shouldn't see any fuel there at all time if the system is normal.
Hi can you send the link where you brought the resistance wheel? thanks
Last time I checked I couldn't find it anymore. Jaycar used to sell it in Australia. But there's plenty of other types of resistance box you can buy online.
@@a1mechanicaloakey639 yeah I saw that he discontinued it. If you find a link with one. Can you post it. Thanks. Will keep looking for on. I use a 5v box for testing with various test lights but looking for one that could varies
www.ebay.com.au/itm/175345383843?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=crkb03zdqro&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=C401-mH7RoC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
This is the cheapest option but only goes from 0 to 9999 ohm. It's a handy tool to have. I got one myself. Can do airbag system and various other many sensor testing. May have limitation as it's only up to 9,999 ohms.
wonderful job sir, I would like to ask you some thing I have a ford 2008 model, same engine like that one in the video, it was so dirty and I decided to wash it with water but after washing I started it and it ran for like 5 minutes then stopped ,from then I have tried all I can to make it start but it has refused to catch up, its like fuel is not moving well . May I you please help me, what may be the problem to this engine, thank you
It going to be a challenging one. I would check all the fuses first and pump fuel at the filter and from there you gonna need expert to check what you missing. Injector pulse or communication error etc.
Hi
Did you come alright, I washed the engine and it is not starting
Thanks
Hello, I have a ford ranger with the same engine and the same issues as the one in this video, I had fuel coming through the relief valve while cranking, I changed the valve with a know good one and same issue, long long crank to start, if i spray starter fluid into the intake, the van starts and idles.
Did changing this valve fix the issues on this van ?
Yes it did.
@@a1mechanicaloakey639 I literally just sent you an email about this. I will try another valve and see what happens.
Do you fix it ??? I have the same problem
Good morning please i have a kia Sorrento diesel engine the car does not start but when i check fuel is not coming from the high speed pump,fuel come from the low pressure hand pump please what will be the problem
If the fuel not coming out of injection pump then more than likely pump is bad or chain or belt drive system. But you have to know what you doing because pump doesn't have lot of volume so could be mistaken for no fuel. There's high pressure though. It's a job for professionals.
@@a1mechanicaloakey639 thanks
Can someone help. I have a 2007 mazda bt 50. New pcm , Good continuity in wiring from injectors to pcm, getting code P0204. Swapped #1 & #4 injectors around and still getting same code P0204 (open circuit cylinder 4).
Is it misfiring on that cylinder?
@@a1mechanicaloakey639 I assume so. When the mechanic swapped 1 & 4 injectors around we were hoping code p0204 would change to p0201 . Thankyou for your reply
Do you have any current coming on that circuit? If no current, swapped injector, good continuity in the both wore to ecu. Then nothing left. More than likely ecu is at fault. but again I haven't seen the car. I don't know the test that carries out it valid or not.
I got a 2010 Ford Everest 3.0L
Engine cranks but does not start
Great
nice
It shows orange light on dash board
Where is your location
I have a 2009 with a broken auto trans. The idle on yours is awful you can literally balance a coin on mine
Helpppppppp.....mine don't have any electricity going to the injector
Lol. Electricity 😜. Yeah so need to check why it's not coming.
where are you located
Oakey Qld.
IF YOUR CAR I CLEAN NO PROBLEM.
Good day, ive got a problem with my ford ranger 2.2L engine crank no start, gettin scanned nothing found DTC, can you help me with this thanks in advance
Need to see the car. No start Could mean many things.
Is this a Ford Ranger? Or a Mazda BT-50?
Ranger
@a1mechanicaloakey639 Ok
Yet you are turning the resistor wheel, remember there's no fuel pressure in the common rail.
Yes
Location you po
?
EGR stuffed blown head gasket didn't even wach lol
dierel filter
Nope
@@a1mechanicaloakey639 by new eingin
Nope
u nead to klean ur engin . First step.
The most painful diagnostic ever...i hope the truck was done in two hours.....not days
You lack knowledge of the system and tools. I hope that your truck
I'm trying to do training video, therefore I usually show few extra steps so it covers whole scenario because not everytime it's the same reason for same symptoms. That's why video is long plus I need to explain every bit. But you can elaborate where I'm missing knowledge. With tools yes I don't have everything when I need them and no body does. It's how you make available resources useful that's where the skill is at. Every model and makes are welcome at my shop so I don't know what tools I may need.
You are try to train how, the customer or the technician
In bought cases you are off with you tooling and diagnostic...go back to your drawing board....get your information spot on first.....
@@markderoche4697 I'm training technicians.
You still didn't explain which part of diagnosis and tooling is wrong.
LoL.....play like you don't know what i am talking about!!!
Good luck with that
@@markderoche4697 No, I do not know what you talking about
Good day, I've got the same truck.
I need your insight advice please.
If i could have your email address please