I will be detailed. In fact I'm having a separate wire crimping video to make more room in the next Rat Rig video to focus on firmware. The input shaping will be getting it's own video to cover it in enough detail.
Honestly, this has become my goal for what I want for my next printer. The fact that depending on how I set up the kit, I could get a 400×400×400 printer for under $1000 is amazing
@@duck0star huh, interesting. I was only thinking 400³ because the RatRig site offered that (along with 500³) but knowing that, I might just stick with the 300³ model
So cool! I have built the version 2 with the Orbiter/V6 combo, but this one seems to have improved in all the right places. So I'm green with envy... 😉 Thanks by the way for introducing me to the Orbiter, best 50 bucks I've invested into the printer so far.
I was poking around the internet for a frame kit. Just a large basic cube frame kit, but no one sells a basic kit, Rat Rig was the closest thing to what I was looking for, but it was a little higher priced for what I was trying to do. When I get to the point that I have room for second 3D printer, Rat Rig is going to be top of the list
Gonna be a hard choice, I am considering getting into one of these systems. Voron is top of my list, but I must admit the sourcing does seem to be the most daunting part. This kit system an the printer over all looks cool.
Sourcing a Voron isn’t as bad as it seems. Yeah there are a lot of parts and links, but I think I was able to source from a total of 4 different places (US). Also, there are a few community members that have set up stores to help source quality parts easily. I recommend stopping by the discord to check out the vendors section. Also, vendor section! You can chat with vendors directly, and if you have questions about an order, a product feature or setting, or if you have a problem, you can chat with a person and get actual helpful answers.
I want to echo what Dave said. I've built four different Voron's and the sourcing is not an issue in my experience. The guide is a great starting point and the Discord can help you if you get into a jam.
I’m with you, Nick- tossing up between a RR and a Voron, the latter seems cheaper all up but don’t know if the convenience of a (nearly) complete kit is worth the money. Thanks for the comments of support/advice also, guys.
I've been day dreaming of a 500x500 printer that is also my first core-x-y with .6 or .8 nozzle with the purpose of printing cosplay helmets, RC airplanes, and the parts to build a full scale R2-D2 droid. With a build volume that size the helmets/body armor could be a single piece then the R2-D2 dome could be 1 part instead of the printing of multiple parts that have to be glued and finished when using a smaller bed size printer.
this is great and I also had a look at the options on the rat rig page and to be honest, it isnt as price as I thought. Even with the biggest build volume and all parts needed, direct drive hemera etc, I land at around 1,4k which is absolutely fine in my opinion for such a high quality model with a huge build volume!
YES! I just saw the ending where you mentioned the SKR 1.2 pro. I've got one of those I'll be using in my diy 330 x 600mm Corexy I'm building at the moment. Having a tutorial on the SKR 1.2 will be very handy
Your content is the best quality i know on the subject . thx ! I can't wait to see if the kinematic bed could be used kind of as a 4th axis ! Might just be "combinable" with the non planar 3D printing thing in slic3r !
Very cool video series truly appreciate your effort and willingness to share. I am so wanting to build a printer. I also see the techniques used in assembly and interlocking shapes etc. As I want to design and build model Trains chassis and bodies i can see things to reuse in those components as well. I just went to the Older style Micro Swiss Direct Drive, I am locked in to that design on my 10S Pro. I lightened it up by moving to the pancake fan and minimalist Fan shroud design from Victor Bared, It looks nice and tidy. The bed on this machine is magical, thinking of my robotic days the Delta Platform was the fasted and most accurate frame, so the bed on three pivots makes perfect sense. I want to skip ahead and see the results but fun to see how to control this baby too. All the best Great Series, Dennis
Michael...hurry up I cant wait to see it finished and running. Really impressed with your videos on this assembly. The wait times for the kits are getting longer and I want to see your impressions before I hit the button to order to sepnd 1100Euro....ok too late just bit the bullet and ordered one. No use procrastinating :)
That was really easy to watch, and more importantly follow. I like the screen text with extra explanations. Your delivery is much more loose, than when you started and that’s good. Says a lot really. 🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀🤓
thanks for this Michael, I have had my rr vcore pro 2 for almost a year now I absolutely love it. Aussie buyers should be aware for the gst/import fees which can really jack up the price. The vcore is absolutely a beast of a printer!
Its the compact design i liked and modular plus idex Best order a hotend that fits it and get messing just got klipper running properly still got input shaper to set up etc
i like this more than the voron. a friend of mine was looking to buy one so I cam here :O BLV-mgn cube is also intresting but there's no info on it online, the community is very hidden/close and doesn't like discussing it properly or sharing what speeds they can achieve.
I'm working on my 300x300x400. Waiting for several parts, but my frame is very good. I'm working in a different bed, with 127V in a 3 mm aluminium plate with a 1.5 mm cork layer and the hotbed over it all.
I added the Orbiter V1.5 to my Ender 5 Plus modified with an ExoSlide system and the MicroSwiss hotend. It works great but I have yet to formulate a cooling solution. I downloaded the EVA STLs to see if I can mod the blower mount and duct to suit. I do have a left over Slice Mosquito Magnum and am thinking of a future mod to replace the MicroSwiss maybe with the EVA design... Just Plain Fun!
you can lubricate the Rails from within the trolley, as they should have a hole for this purpose. There are even detailed instructions, how to clean and relubricate the trolleys.
I am glad you did this one. Many others are doing the Voron and it's nice to see other options as well. This printer may have a good thing by being able to move the bed out of level for prints that may require a different angle etc... It may be a thing more into the future.
I'm a complete noob at 3D printing unless you count the Makeblock that I purchased. The assembly was almost instant, easy to use but died after 26 hours, I get a refund tomorrow. Sooooo, technically I have already spent the money, adding a few more NZ Pesos to move up maybe is in my ability. Hmm ability. Assembly looks like a project in its self, I went to the 'Sam Prentice channel' his enthusiasm, fast talking and technical terms maybe a year or so down the track, might make sense but today it seemed like a car salesman trying to teach me astrophysics. I particularly liked your clip on non planar technique, the comments about the requirement for longer reach hotend clearance and best if the head could tilt. Could the tilt on the Rat Rig V-core 3 bed emulate head tilt? As I know nothing about hotends and nozzles, I did wonder how valid the comment was that mentioned MIG copper nozzles being 25mm long and same thread as a nozzle. If so it would be easy to bang it in a lathe and taper the end down from 9mm to say 3mm over the 25mm at the business end, especially at 10 NZ$ for 5 of them. OK Noobieness over, I like you style on this channel, I can watch and learn without having to google jargon.
Voron kits can be bought in total from legit online sellers these days. That said the V core has got my attention for its larger size and ability to option better extruder and hot end parts.
It almost akes me want to build one too ... Well, I'll probably do in some time. :) Unsure if you really need some insulation and "secure" the silicone pad. Adhesive on these are usually really strong. Never had any issue on mine (on a bedslinger style), even when heating it past 120°C and enclosed. Better safe than sorry, though. Btw, that kinematic bed looks sick !
I think it's cool, that you didn't build a voron. That way I can see cnc kitchen with his voron and you, with your printer and see two different machines, and not the same
This is a realy expensive 3d printer , on Brazil the price without shipping is R$ 7400,00 , its equivalent of a 3 years of saving money spending the minimum possible (the average wage in Brazil is R$ 1000,00 about US$ 186,96 , and €152,97)
Orbiter looks ok for a extruder deffently a top 3 pick and fits this build very nicely. It also covers your easy build motto as a kit purchase. Other good choices is a sherpa mini and hextravort. The sherpa mini i think is the best and comes as a kit bit weather there is a mount to fit this printer who knows. The hextravort is nice but mostly only fits HevORT printer designs so not really a option for other 3d printers.
@@joshua43214 Hextravort + nova was printing 5min benchies which is 300mm/s and 20k acc. Its based on the nema 14 and bmg hardware this would be its limit i think though. I am making a HevORT HD9 with a v6 volcano and hextravort extruder. It has very nice weight distrabution hotend. I have modded the x carriage to be a mgn9 rail from a mgn12 and using a simplified z axis.
@@TeachingTech Fair point. Good mindset to keep as well. One step at a time. I'm definitely looking forward to the rest of this series and building one myself.
The biggest thing pulling me more to the Voron 2.4 for a large printer is that the Bed is stationary and the printhead moves up, if one prints a few kilos in one print, even with linear rails and stable parts, wouldn't wanna risk the bed giving way. And makes temperature stabilization easier since you have a fixed printvolume, with the bed moving down, all of it is lost under the bed.
Bed giving way? Not gonna happen. I designed a filtered recirculation duct for mine to distribute the heat in the printer. Not necessary though since heat rises to the top.
This is still a better design IMO. They did change to a milder pitch on the lead screw, even with the motor unplugged it wont creep down. The Voron design has issues, not the least of which is sacrificing the rigidity of the gantry. Input shaper can alleviate this, but it is a software band aide to fix a pretty major design flaw.
@@joshua43214 At the last Formnext i did see both approaches, fully enclosed big half or one qubic meter volumes with a static Bed at the bottom and also one cubic meter with a moving bed, i think it's a bigger strain lifting the bed including the big aluminum slab and the print , but i guess with anti backlash nuts the strain on the steppers isn't as high and you need less holding torque
@@miklschmidt well i guess i shall get myself 3030 or even 4040 profiles and see how large i can build it, I'm aiming for 1 qubic meter but might go for wide base, since belt printers save space but aren't to my liking yet
Having to source all the parts separately for a Voron is also what's holding me off. Great choice to review a Rat rig kit, these are not inferior to a Voron in any way.
The bed leveling system is sort of inferior. It uses 3 z motors to level the bed to the gantry, while the Voron 2.4 uses 4. Since the bed isn’t 100% flat, 3 point leveling is inferior. Also, this printer isn’t as easy to enclose which means worse performance for higher temp materials.
@@TeachingTech That’s what i meant. They use something called quad gantry leveling to probe each corner and get an accurate level of the gantry to the bed on all 4 corners with the 4 motors. This is because it’s unique in that the gantry is floating. They also do normal mesh bed leveling subsequently. You should check em out! its a great community.
@@GRuizMedia doesn't the bed of the RR heat up your enclosure faster because it's high up? I would think it would take ages for the V2.4 to heat up the enclosure with it sitting in the bottom... are there any reports on this? That's the only thing pushing me to the RR, looking for good PC and Nylon printing performance. Reason why so many like the V0 is because the enclosure is so small it heats up fast. RR should also heat up fast..
@@karoo_bushman6880 actually that shouldn't make a big difference at all. but if you really care about it heating up fast, there is a mod in the Voron community called the nevermore. It's basically a fan unit that goes under the bed on a V2.4 that redistributes the hot air. This way, the chamber heats up like 4x faster. It's a real game-changer. Also, you can add a carbon filter to it so that it can filter out any toxic fumes that come from ABS.
The Lowrider2 was intended to have a laser originally, but the laser I had lined up for it was no where near as effective as advertised. Look up my Endurance laser review and have a gander at the description too.
If you're going to be printing fast, you might want to consider a different part cooling solution; there's a really good video from the creator of the HeVORT that gives a couple ideas.
Since that video, he’s also mentioned that he has to pump TONS of cooling to cool a 5 or 6 minute benchy. He’s got that crazy fan duct setup, plus a berd air nozzle hooked up to a shop compressor, and he still throws extra fans at it. But that’s for a sub 6 min benchy. For more realistic “fast” speeds, I can’t see why a dual 5015 wouldn’t be sufficient?
@@Crazyates11 Yeah, it's more of a suggestion than a requirement. In my experience, if you print even reasonably fast (≈100 mm/s), two main aspects will suffer if you do not have enough cooling: overhangs over 45˚ (edges/corners will curl and the nozzle can crash into them) and smaller details (high speed + fine detail = less time for the fan to cool that piece). But if you don't really care about those two things, I absolutely agree; a 5015 fan will do just fine for 90% of those faster prints.
Awesome content. Would it be possible that you could print some "large" objects for us with it like large vase-mode models etc. I'm considering it for printing molds for ceramics and I'd like to see how it behaves when you print large thin walled objects etc...
i wish someone comapred the v-slot version to the rail version. i'm gonna make my own printer once i'm out of iran. i wanna use cheap carbon fiber for the X axis to save like 100g. not my idea some other youtuber's idea :O i'm so hyped. I'm gonna do tilting hotends there
I love glass, why not use glass? PEI can be very difficult to remove prints. I had one where i just couldn't separate, tried alcohol, freezing, scrapping, in the end, i bent the PEI sheet. Glass with a Bostik glue stick, i've had the best experience. Use alcohol, freeze, but prints mostly come off just when it cools down. You wait for that CLICK, and you pick up the print.
This build is starting to grow on me and I am looking forward to the next part. Is there any objection to print the parts needed for this build in ASA/ABS or even nylon in stead of PETG? For precision and quality freaks....as I understood the Linear rails and blocks or no genuine HiWins. Is there the option to order this kit with genuine HiWin linear rails or the option to order this kit without the rails and blocks and source them yourself? What are the lengths of the rails used for a 300mm build and which blocks are used (12C or 12H)?? Thanks for the video's and keep up the good work.
For the filament choice, I don't see any problem with any selection. All of your other questions can be answered by following the link to the website. The whole printer is open source and you also have a CAD model linked you can take measurements from.
Cant wait for the next part , I wish to buy one myself one thing holds me back ,in your opinion can you switch the nozzle to a 0.6 for extra fast prints ,and is it suitable for series production ? Thanks 🙂🖐️
@@liamventer 🙂Thanks ! , what kind of extruder heat block hotend combo is suitable for ,like an Asa, or Abs prints at 300-400mm/s or even higher ? ,since there is a lot of material flow that has to heated at a very high speed
The Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum I have going on has one handed nozzle changes, which I'm keen to try. It's also designed to melt and flow a lot of plastic. They have a plus version too but it's not available yet.
Yes, still PETG. Apart from a fan duct, I'm used PLA on printhead parts for other machines. Unless you have a really hot extruder stepper or are printing in a warm enclosure it's generally not a problem.
Can you explain pro and cons of kinematic bed? And can you post your configuration of this printer? Like, what you have choose in the order page on their site
My configuration is shown in part 1 if you want to follow exactly. For firmware, I'll be using their pre-made Klipper setup but if for some reason I deviate from that I am happy to post it.
Hi there, great printer and great video, too :) Maybe I haven't seen it: there's an 220V Keenovo silicone heater installed. You HAVE TO GROUND it! 220V can kill you if there's a damage on the heater and you touch the ungrounded metal parts of the printer!
So any reason why you choose BL Touch instead of EZABL? I want to order a Rat Rig too. Right now I print mostly on Glas (ABS) and FR4 and BL Touch. As I ruined my BL already once as it had a collision with a part, I think about moving to the EZABL for the RatRig. Would be nice to hear your opinion. I am also not sure if I should go for the 400 or 500mm Version? I guess for a CoreXY Printer a big bed size which only moves down is not that big of a problem compared with a Bed that moves in Y direction? So my thoughts are, quality wise there should no big downside to go big with the CoreXY?
Possible at some point to do a Core-XY where the bed is stationary? Seen a similar design, but where the carriage for the X and Y drives is what moves in Z (also on 4 lead screws and allowing for adjustment in level), while the bed is just hard bolted to the base frame. Kinematically, it seems best to have all your movement being in the head, and eliminating any movement of the bed. But if the bed is going to move, best for it to just be in Z.
Yes, that’s what a Voron 2.4 is known for. The whole XY gantry moves along the z axis and the bed is completely stationary, bolted to the frame. The XY gantry even self levels itself to the flat bed. A Voron 1.8 is a more traditional corexy where the xy are stationary and the z moves. The Voron 0 is similar to a 1.8, but just mini.
Is the magnetic sticker able to withstand temperatures above 80 degrees? Another thing that worries me a bit....when heating up de bed to 100 degrees or up for printing ABS, PC....is the heat from the bed transferred to the ball joints able to damage the printed arms carrying the hotbed? Or won't that be a potential problem?
the flex plate system rat rig sells is rated for 130c if i remember correctly. If you're enclosing and / or printing high temp filaments, it's a good idea to print at least the arms and the EVA carriage out of a material with better thermal resistance. Haven't seen issues with the arms yet, but better safe than sorry.
I like that EVA design, I might have to take a go at adapting that for my project. Is there anyway you could tell me the X and Y size? I have 60x52mm in front of the rail to work with.
@@TeachingTech I did look before I asked, and I couldnt find anything that said how big the fully assembled EVA design was. I found a PDF file that has some good measurements on it, maybe I missed something.
@@joshua43214 I grabbed the cad files, there still isnt a fully assembled model though. There is a half assembled model, dont worry about it though. I'll assemble the model in cad and figure it out myself.......
How is their linear rail quality? I recently bought some linear rails from china and man were they rough, I had to stone the rails and replace the ball bearings to get something I was comfortable with using on my printer.
This build already looks awesome before you actually use it. However (and this might be a question for you to rate your printers), when watching the background, I always wonder: What happened to the Seckit you build? When watching the whole video, I noticed that you are indeed using it, but concerning the seemingly awesome printers, I always wonder if they are still awesome in the long run. Concerning how many printers you have in the background, I wonder if they are there for aesthetic reasons, because they just have to fit somewhere, or you sometimes demand lots of printers. Or do you store printers you actually use somewhere else? The Seckit printer seemed to be able to replace a bunch of others. Watching some of the videos where people print using Klipper, it seems like there can be printers fulfilling lots of requirements. Like being fast, reliable, reasonably big and user-friendly. Adding a tool changer could fulfill the demand for many materials. If you have cubes, is there any reason to keep many i3 style printers except for testing upgrades? But you seem to have a lot of i3 style printers. Or do they keep coming? You seem to often use your Prusa printer, although you already have printers, which have linear rails and maybe even more advanced extruders. Doesn't the Seckit outperform it? P.S.: I guess, if you have very fast cubes, there is no need for delta printers, because they only take up more space, or is there? P.S.: Damn, I actually wanted my own cube printer and already bought quite a lot of parts, but that one ships from Portugal and fulfills quite a lot of my demands. I would have bought it, if you started your video series earlier and I might, if I fail to build my own one. In theory it seems to be really great.I don't like printed parts in printers, but in the Rat Rig many parts seem to be supported by metal.
Pretty much all of the printers in the background still get used. Some are modified for specific purposes, like a big nozzle for printing large parts fast, a small nozzle for small, precise parts, a TPU specialist extruder, etc. The Seckit is going well, apart from the WIFI thingy I added not always liking talking to my router. One some days it will disconnect mid file upload and that is a bit of a deal breaker. I was actually going to print all of the Rat Rig parts on the Seckit for the quality but that's when it started playing up and I have to find some time to investigate and fix it.
@@TeachingTech Thx for the update on that matter. I would have expected that you reduced the number of printers, which are actually in use. On the other hand it makes sense, that a printer optimized for a purpose and being ready in that configuration is faster to start up than one, which is just capable of multiple things, but it has to be configured slightly different. Also, I expected some printers just to be inconvenient. I always suspect maintanance on the rolls of the Ender3 to be annoying (but I own 2 Anycubic i3 Mega printers and for some reason they seem to be the top choice, so I don't have any proof). On the other hand, it might be a very easy thing, especially when knowing which tension to use and how to spot problems before they become problematic.
Hi @Teaching Tech , Super nice build serries. Decided to build my net printer as a Rat Rig due to you clips. I have 2 questions I hope you can share your experince with me; 1. I read some people have problems with the Orbitter Stepper overheating. How is your experience in this? 2. If you add the E3D V6 hotend to the weight, would you not be better off with a BiQu H2 extruder that has the hotend integrated and looks about the same All-Up-Weight? Hope you decide to share your experience with me/us! (ps. I LOVE your printer-tuning website!)
When I built the Seckit it was the first one in the wild and things were a work in progress. These instructions are better but I'm not sure how the Seckit instructions have progressed. Nothing to stop you comparing both side by side.
1) Unconstrained mounting points - bed plates expand as they heat up. If their mounting points are unmovable, the bed will have no room to expand to the sides, and it will be forced to bow (either upwards or downwards). The V-Core 3 bed plate is not rigidly connected to the machine's frame. Instead, 3 steel balls connected to the bed sit on low friction dowel pins. The pins act like a pair of rails for the steel balls, guiding their movement as the bed expands and ensuring that only radial movement is possible - there's zero margin for lateral movement. This means that while your plate is firmly in place, it can still remain perfectly flat as it expands. The weight of the bed would be enough to ensure that the bed can't move in non-radial directions, but for extra sturdiness, magnets mounted on the Z arms provide additional resistance, to make sure the bed never moves from the intended position. 2) Automatic bed-levelling - forget about having to manually level your bed. Since the bed only has 3 mounting points, which are connected to 3 independently driven Z motors, bed-levelling is exclusively determined by motor position and can be done 100% electronically - simple and instantaneous.
@@eva-3d948 Oh, I see. So, there's possibility to build the bed with 4 points if I want very rigid bed and no play on XZ/YZ plane but it will be redundant, right ?
Its pretty cool to see kinematic beds become something common on diy hobbyist printers
Has been a thing for years though
Please be detailed on part 3, this is where most people will need to be walked through.
Agree with Frank 104%.
he said, dont't follow the video. follow the guide
I will be detailed. In fact I'm having a separate wire crimping video to make more room in the next Rat Rig video to focus on firmware. The input shaping will be getting it's own video to cover it in enough detail.
Honestly, this has become my goal for what I want for my next printer. The fact that depending on how I set up the kit, I could get a 400×400×400 printer for under $1000 is amazing
Do note that a 400^2 is pushing corexy to its limit in workable size. Personally I wouldn't go bigger then 350^2
@@duck0star why is that?
@@Thierry080 because of the way belts are working and also stress on systems
@@duck0star huh, interesting. I was only thinking 400³ because the RatRig site offered that (along with 500³) but knowing that, I might just stick with the 300³ model
Maybe jump on the Facebook group and see if the 400mm versions are meeting their user's expectations?
A kinematic bed seems well-suited to non-planar printing, since it could keep the nozzle normal to the part surface.
Yes, if only someone would come up with the programming
Imagine a kinematic bed coupled with the Vorons flying gantry for non planar printing
@@emanprime3679 question: what do function/movements did you have in mind should the bed do/have?
@@fearlyenrage For example for the roof of the Benchy, slant the bed so it does not need to be printed in steps but is just 1 smooth surface.
So cool! I have built the version 2 with the Orbiter/V6 combo, but this one seems to have improved in all the right places. So I'm green with envy... 😉 Thanks by the way for introducing me to the Orbiter, best 50 bucks I've invested into the printer so far.
I'm happy with mine too on the Seckit. Expecting it to be great on this too.
I think this is amazing and so innovative. Thank You for being on the leading edge of giving power to the people.
I'm just the messenger here, all credit to the designers.
@@TeachingTech where would the world be without messengers? Thanks again!
I was poking around the internet for a frame kit. Just a large basic cube frame kit, but no one sells a basic kit, Rat Rig was the closest thing to what I was looking for, but it was a little higher priced for what I was trying to do.
When I get to the point that I have room for second 3D printer, Rat Rig is going to be top of the list
Gonna be a hard choice, I am considering getting into one of these systems. Voron is top of my list, but I must admit the sourcing does seem to be the most daunting part. This kit system an the printer over all looks cool.
Sourcing a Voron isn’t as bad as it seems. Yeah there are a lot of parts and links, but I think I was able to source from a total of 4 different places (US). Also, there are a few community members that have set up stores to help source quality parts easily. I recommend stopping by the discord to check out the vendors section. Also, vendor section! You can chat with vendors directly, and if you have questions about an order, a product feature or setting, or if you have a problem, you can chat with a person and get actual helpful answers.
I want to echo what Dave said. I've built four different Voron's and the sourcing is not an issue in my experience. The guide is a great starting point and the Discord can help you if you get into a jam.
I’m with you, Nick- tossing up between a RR and a Voron, the latter seems cheaper all up but don’t know if the convenience of a (nearly) complete kit is worth the money.
Thanks for the comments of support/advice also, guys.
I've been day dreaming of a 500x500 printer that is also my first core-x-y with .6 or .8 nozzle with the purpose of printing cosplay helmets, RC airplanes, and the parts to build a full scale R2-D2 droid. With a build volume that size the helmets/body armor could be a single piece then the R2-D2 dome could be 1 part instead of the printing of multiple parts that have to be glued and finished when using a smaller bed size printer.
That would be a good use for this printer. Check out Sam Prentice's channel linked in the description, you'll probably like what he makes.
ah, finally! The wait was becoming unbearable :D as always, good stuff ^^
Wow, the design is really good. I recently assembled a Prusa Mini kit and I thought it was well thought out. This is probably even better.
this is great and I also had a look at the options on the rat rig page and to be honest, it isnt as price as I thought. Even with the biggest build volume and all parts needed, direct drive hemera etc, I land at around 1,4k which is absolutely fine in my opinion for such a high quality model with a huge build volume!
I've recently started adding the karate chop to the end of my projects. So far nothing has failed.
It's a proven pro technique!
YES! I just saw the ending where you mentioned the SKR 1.2 pro. I've got one of those I'll be using in my diy 330 x 600mm Corexy I'm building at the moment. Having a tutorial on the SKR 1.2 will be very handy
Your content is the best quality i know on the subject . thx ! I can't wait to see if the kinematic bed could be used kind of as a 4th axis ! Might just be "combinable" with the non planar 3D printing thing in slic3r !
this looks sooo good!.. it's more than 3 times above my budget but it really looks like a fun proyect for a 2nd or 3rd 3D printer..
Very cool video series truly appreciate your effort and willingness to share. I am so wanting to build a printer. I also see the techniques used in assembly and interlocking shapes etc. As I want to design and build model Trains chassis and bodies i can see things to reuse in those components as well. I just went to the Older style Micro Swiss Direct Drive, I am locked in to that design on my 10S Pro. I lightened it up by moving to the pancake fan and minimalist Fan shroud design from Victor Bared, It looks nice and tidy. The bed on this machine is magical, thinking of my robotic days the Delta Platform was the fasted and most accurate frame, so the bed on three pivots makes perfect sense. I want to skip ahead and see the results but fun to see how to control this baby too. All the best Great Series, Dennis
Michael...hurry up I cant wait to see it finished and running. Really impressed with your videos on this assembly. The wait times for the kits are getting longer and I want to see your impressions before I hit the button to order to sepnd 1100Euro....ok too late just bit the bullet and ordered one. No use procrastinating :)
That was really easy to watch, and more importantly follow. I like the screen text with extra explanations.
Your delivery is much more loose, than when you started and that’s good.
Says a lot really.
🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀🤓
Aww crap! I'm caught up with Micheal's videos. Now I have to wait till notifications come in.
thanks for this Michael,
I have had my rr vcore pro 2 for almost a year now I absolutely love it.
Aussie buyers should be aware for the gst/import fees which can really jack up the price.
The vcore is absolutely a beast of a printer!
Aussie potential buyer here, Thanks for the heads up!
After watching the first part, I ended up ordering one as well. Great video
You made the right choice over the Voron, The Rig is far less complicated and the bed is second to none.
Its the compact design i liked and modular plus idex
Best order a hotend that fits it and get messing just got klipper running properly still got input shaper to set up etc
Great design
Great video and walkthrough
Thanks for sharing you experience to all of us👍😀
I don't *_need_* a core XY printer.
...But that's not stopping me from trying to find a reason.
i like this more than the voron. a friend of mine was looking to buy one so I cam here :O
BLV-mgn cube is also intresting but there's no info on it online, the community is very hidden/close and doesn't like discussing it properly or sharing what speeds they can achieve.
Can't wait to see this beast running
Thanks for the shout out dude :) - great video
You are so calm.
I got KillerBee from RatRig and yet to build one. But their quality is on point!
Exciting stuff. Can't wait to see this fella spitting filament.
Thanks for the shout out :)
Great video Michael , Always very detailed.
I'm working on my 300x300x400. Waiting for several parts, but my frame is very good.
I'm working in a different bed, with 127V in a 3 mm aluminium plate with a 1.5 mm cork layer and the hotbed over it all.
3mm is too thin. 6-8mm is the best!
The good old twack.
As useful as ever.
I love this series!!! Your best series.
With the angles that bed can achieve, I have to think it's only a matter of time until one of the 3D printing Illuminati implement true 5d printing.
I added the Orbiter V1.5 to my Ender 5 Plus modified with an ExoSlide system and the MicroSwiss hotend. It works great but I have yet to formulate a cooling solution. I downloaded the EVA STLs to see if I can mod the blower mount and duct to suit. I do have a left over Slice Mosquito Magnum and am thinking of a future mod to replace the MicroSwiss maybe with the EVA design... Just Plain Fun!
you can lubricate the Rails from within the trolley, as they should have a hole for this purpose. There are even detailed instructions, how to clean and relubricate the trolleys.
Nice job, great printer design!!!
Amazing video. Very well done and well resumed. congrats!
I am glad you did this one. Many others are doing the Voron and it's nice to see other options as well.
This printer may have a good thing by being able to move the bed out of level for prints that may require a different angle etc... It may be a thing more into the future.
I'm a complete noob at 3D printing unless you count the Makeblock that I purchased.
The assembly was almost instant, easy to use but died after 26 hours, I get a refund tomorrow.
Sooooo, technically I have already spent the money, adding a few more NZ Pesos to move up maybe is in my ability.
Hmm ability.
Assembly looks like a project in its self, I went to the 'Sam Prentice channel' his enthusiasm, fast talking and technical terms maybe a year or so down the track, might make sense but today it seemed like a car salesman trying to teach me astrophysics.
I particularly liked your clip on non planar technique, the comments about the requirement for longer reach hotend clearance and best if the head could tilt.
Could the tilt on the Rat Rig V-core 3 bed emulate head tilt?
As I know nothing about hotends and nozzles, I did wonder how valid the comment was that mentioned MIG copper nozzles being 25mm long and same thread as a nozzle.
If so it would be easy to bang it in a lathe and taper the end down from 9mm to say 3mm over the 25mm at the business end, especially at 10 NZ$ for 5 of them.
OK Noobieness over, I like you style on this channel, I can watch and learn without having to google jargon.
finally part 2 been waiting for this ordered mine a week ago :D
Voron kits can be bought in total from legit online sellers these days. That said the V core has got my attention for its larger size and ability to option better extruder and hot end parts.
It almost akes me want to build one too ... Well, I'll probably do in some time. :)
Unsure if you really need some insulation and "secure" the silicone pad. Adhesive on these are usually really strong. Never had any issue on mine (on a bedslinger style), even when heating it past 120°C and enclosed. Better safe than sorry, though.
Btw, that kinematic bed looks sick !
"At least 2 million people asked why i didnt pick a Voron..."
I was at least 30 of those 2 million.
They are similar
The voron community is much bigger so you have more help
A 2.4 is very nice
2.4 is sexy but V-core is more of beefy yet somewhat affordable
That filament holder though!
Very good video :-) just waiting to get my kit! :-)
Just a waiting game. my 500x500x500 will be huge.
I think it's cool, that you didn't build a voron. That way I can see cnc kitchen with his voron and you, with your printer and see two different machines, and not the same
Variety is the spice of life.
If you're going to do a Voron, try the Trident.. it's really an under-rated printer!
This is a realy expensive 3d printer , on Brazil the price without shipping is R$ 7400,00 , its equivalent of a 3 years of saving money spending the minimum possible (the average wage in Brazil is R$ 1000,00 about US$ 186,96 , and €152,97)
Orbiter looks ok for a extruder deffently a top 3 pick and fits this build very nicely. It also covers your easy build motto as a kit purchase.
Other good choices is a sherpa mini and hextravort. The sherpa mini i think is the best and comes as a kit bit weather there is a mount to fit this printer who knows. The hextravort is nice but mostly only fits HevORT printer designs so not really a option for other 3d printers.
It's a big printer, only real choice IMO is the LGX + Volcano. The Orbiter does not really move much plastic
@@joshua43214 Hextravort + nova was printing 5min benchies which is 300mm/s and 20k acc. Its based on the nema 14 and bmg hardware this would be its limit i think though.
I am making a HevORT HD9 with a v6 volcano and hextravort extruder. It has very nice weight distrabution hotend. I have modded the x carriage to be a mgn9 rail from a mgn12 and using a simplified z axis.
I'm highly intimidated to build one of these in the future, but...damn does this look fun.
Just a series of simple steps. Nothing yet I think is harder than putting together something like an Ender 3, just obviously a lot more steps.
@@TeachingTech Fair point. Good mindset to keep as well. One step at a time. I'm definitely looking forward to the rest of this series and building one myself.
The biggest thing pulling me more to the Voron 2.4 for a large printer is that the Bed is stationary and the printhead moves up, if one prints a few kilos in one print, even with linear rails and stable parts, wouldn't wanna risk the bed giving way. And makes temperature stabilization easier since you have a fixed printvolume, with the bed moving down, all of it is lost under the bed.
Bed giving way? Not gonna happen. I designed a filtered recirculation duct for mine to distribute the heat in the printer. Not necessary though since heat rises to the top.
This is still a better design IMO. They did change to a milder pitch on the lead screw, even with the motor unplugged it wont creep down. The Voron design has issues, not the least of which is sacrificing the rigidity of the gantry. Input shaper can alleviate this, but it is a software band aide to fix a pretty major design flaw.
@@joshua43214 At the last Formnext i did see both approaches, fully enclosed big half or one qubic meter volumes with a static Bed at the bottom and also one cubic meter with a moving bed, i think it's a bigger strain lifting the bed including the big aluminum slab and the print , but i guess with anti backlash nuts the strain on the steppers isn't as high and you need less holding torque
@@joshua43214 then again at bigger sizes i would probably start thinking about nema23
@@miklschmidt well i guess i shall get myself 3030 or even 4040 profiles and see how large i can build it, I'm aiming for 1 qubic meter but might go for wide base, since belt printers save space but aren't to my liking yet
Master Class Video ‼️😃
I really do like your martial arts videos.
Having to source all the parts separately for a Voron is also what's holding me off.
Great choice to review a Rat rig kit, these are not inferior to a Voron in any way.
The bed leveling system is sort of inferior. It uses 3 z motors to level the bed to the gantry, while the Voron 2.4 uses 4. Since the bed isn’t 100% flat, 3 point leveling is inferior. Also, this printer isn’t as easy to enclose which means worse performance for higher temp materials.
4 stepper motors isn't going to fix a warped be either, unless you are using them for mesh compensation. But then a single Z stepper can do that.
@@TeachingTech That’s what i meant. They use something called quad gantry leveling to probe each corner and get an accurate level of the gantry to the bed on all 4 corners with the 4 motors. This is because it’s unique in that the gantry is floating. They also do normal mesh bed leveling subsequently. You should check em out! its a great community.
@@GRuizMedia doesn't the bed of the RR heat up your enclosure faster because it's high up? I would think it would take ages for the V2.4 to heat up the enclosure with it sitting in the bottom... are there any reports on this? That's the only thing pushing me to the RR, looking for good PC and Nylon printing performance. Reason why so many like the V0 is because the enclosure is so small it heats up fast. RR should also heat up fast..
@@karoo_bushman6880 actually that shouldn't make a big difference at all. but if you really care about it heating up fast, there is a mod in the Voron community called the nevermore. It's basically a fan unit that goes under the bed on a V2.4 that redistributes the hot air. This way, the chamber heats up like 4x faster. It's a real game-changer. Also, you can add a carbon filter to it so that it can filter out any toxic fumes that come from ABS.
Tempted to ask why you’re not building a Voron😂. This also looks like a nice printer, enjoying the build series👍
Can you do a install video on your lowrider 2 laser mod? Awesome vids. Keep up the awesome work.
The Lowrider2 was intended to have a laser originally, but the laser I had lined up for it was no where near as effective as advertised. Look up my Endurance laser review and have a gander at the description too.
My guy is leaning into the karate chop thing, lol
Thank you.
If you're going to be printing fast, you might want to consider a different part cooling solution; there's a really good video from the creator of the HeVORT that gives a couple ideas.
Maybe post a link to the video you're referring to?
@@Graham_Wideman ua-cam.com/video/65FVQ1jArME/v-deo.html
Since that video, he’s also mentioned that he has to pump TONS of cooling to cool a 5 or 6 minute benchy. He’s got that crazy fan duct setup, plus a berd air nozzle hooked up to a shop compressor, and he still throws extra fans at it.
But that’s for a sub 6 min benchy. For more realistic “fast” speeds, I can’t see why a dual 5015 wouldn’t be sufficient?
@@Crazyates11 Yeah, it's more of a suggestion than a requirement. In my experience, if you print even reasonably fast (≈100 mm/s), two main aspects will suffer if you do not have enough cooling: overhangs over 45˚ (edges/corners will curl and the nozzle can crash into them) and smaller details (high speed + fine detail = less time for the fan to cool that piece). But if you don't really care about those two things, I absolutely agree; a 5015 fan will do just fine for 90% of those faster prints.
Awesome content. Would it be possible that you could print some "large" objects for us with it like large vase-mode models etc. I'm considering it for printing molds for ceramics and I'd like to see how it behaves when you print large thin walled objects etc...
i wish someone comapred the v-slot version to the rail version.
i'm gonna make my own printer once i'm out of iran. i wanna use cheap carbon fiber for the X axis to save like 100g. not my idea some other youtuber's idea :O
i'm so hyped. I'm gonna do tilting hotends there
Thank you Michael, the vampire 🦇 community loves your content. Sucking PLA instead of blood is not an easy DIY.
Any particular reason why you didnt go for the new SKR Octopus for this build ? Also will you be reviewing this board soon Michael ?
I love glass, why not use glass? PEI can be very difficult to remove prints. I had one where i just couldn't separate, tried alcohol, freezing, scrapping, in the end, i bent the PEI sheet. Glass with a Bostik glue stick, i've had the best experience. Use alcohol, freeze, but prints mostly come off just when it cools down. You wait for that CLICK, and you pick up the print.
This build is starting to grow on me and I am looking forward to the next part. Is there any objection to print the parts needed for this build in ASA/ABS or even nylon in stead of PETG? For precision and quality freaks....as I understood the Linear rails and blocks or no genuine HiWins. Is there the option to order this kit with genuine HiWin linear rails or the option to order this kit without the rails and blocks and source them yourself? What are the lengths of the rails used for a 300mm build and which blocks are used (12C or 12H)?? Thanks for the video's and keep up the good work.
For the filament choice, I don't see any problem with any selection. All of your other questions can be answered by following the link to the website. The whole printer is open source and you also have a CAD model linked you can take measurements from.
Cant wait for the next part , I wish to buy one myself one thing holds me back ,in your opinion can you switch the nozzle to a 0.6 for extra fast prints ,and is it suitable for series production ? Thanks 🙂🖐️
Yes no problem switching nozzles.
@@liamventer 🙂Thanks ! , what kind of extruder heat block hotend combo is suitable for ,like an Asa, or Abs prints at 300-400mm/s or even higher ? ,since there is a lot of material flow that has to heated at a very high speed
The Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum I have going on has one handed nozzle changes, which I'm keen to try. It's also designed to melt and flow a lot of plastic. They have a plus version too but it's not available yet.
Thanks Michael ! I heard a lot of good thoughts about the Mosquito hotend now you convinced me that its worth the investment .🙂✌️
Interested if you continued to print the parts in PETG? I'd have thought that ABS would have been much better for all your toolhead parts...
Yes, still PETG. Apart from a fan duct, I'm used PLA on printhead parts for other machines. Unless you have a really hot extruder stepper or are printing in a warm enclosure it's generally not a problem.
Can you explain pro and cons of kinematic bed? And can you post your configuration of this printer? Like, what you have choose in the order page on their site
My configuration is shown in part 1 if you want to follow exactly. For firmware, I'll be using their pre-made Klipper setup but if for some reason I deviate from that I am happy to post it.
Hi there, great printer and great video, too :)
Maybe I haven't seen it: there's an 220V Keenovo silicone heater installed. You HAVE TO GROUND it! 220V can kill you if there's a damage on the heater and you touch the ungrounded metal parts of the printer!
I did notice I had a 220V heater. Yes, I will be grounding it in the wiring episode.
the section starting at 9:15 has the word heartbreak instead of heatbreak (just a fyi)
Hahahaha good one
Whoops :D
Ordered a RatRig myself because of your series! Is there any concern of creeping and fatigue over time from the 3 printed bed mounts?
I've never had this on any other machines so I wouldn't expect it. Even if it does, the kinematic levelling should take care of it.
In Part 1 you talked about the (Optional) inner frame panel and the dxf files. Will you release a dxf file with holes for skr pro 1.2?
Yes. Everything fits so they will be released with the video.
In my opinion, this is NOT a printer for beginners. It has taken me around 20 hours so far, and lots of upper body strength!
So any reason why you choose BL Touch instead of EZABL? I want to order a Rat Rig too. Right now I print mostly on Glas (ABS) and FR4 and BL Touch. As I ruined my BL already once as it had a collision with a part, I think about moving to the EZABL for the RatRig. Would be nice to hear your opinion. I am also not sure if I should go for the 400 or 500mm Version? I guess for a CoreXY Printer a big bed size which only moves down is not that big of a problem compared with a Bed that moves in Y direction? So my thoughts are, quality wise there should no big downside to go big with the CoreXY?
Possible at some point to do a Core-XY where the bed is stationary? Seen a similar design, but where the carriage for the X and Y drives is what moves in Z (also on 4 lead screws and allowing for adjustment in level), while the bed is just hard bolted to the base frame. Kinematically, it seems best to have all your movement being in the head, and eliminating any movement of the bed. But if the bed is going to move, best for it to just be in Z.
Yes, that’s what a Voron 2.4 is known for. The whole XY gantry moves along the z axis and the bed is completely stationary, bolted to the frame. The XY gantry even self levels itself to the flat bed.
A Voron 1.8 is a more traditional corexy where the xy are stationary and the z moves. The Voron 0 is similar to a 1.8, but just mini.
How did you install the grounding hardware since the magnetic bed partially covers the grounding hole?
I want that😍🔥👍
Is the magnetic sticker able to withstand temperatures above 80 degrees? Another thing that worries me a bit....when heating up de bed to 100 degrees or up for printing ABS, PC....is the heat from the bed transferred to the ball joints able to damage the printed arms carrying the hotbed? Or won't that be a potential problem?
the flex plate system rat rig sells is rated for 130c if i remember correctly. If you're enclosing and / or printing high temp filaments, it's a good idea to print at least the arms and the EVA carriage out of a material with better thermal resistance. Haven't seen issues with the arms yet, but better safe than sorry.
I like that EVA design, I might have to take a go at adapting that for my project. Is there anyway you could tell me the X and Y size? I have 60x52mm in front of the rail to work with.
You can get the cad files and stl's from the EVA website.
Yes please refence the links in the description. Any possible information you want is there.
@@TeachingTech I did look before I asked, and I couldnt find anything that said how big the fully assembled EVA design was. I found a PDF file that has some good measurements on it, maybe I missed something.
@@jon9947 get the cad files...
@@joshua43214 I grabbed the cad files, there still isnt a fully assembled model though. There is a half assembled model, dont worry about it though. I'll assemble the model in cad and figure it out myself.......
How is their linear rail quality? I recently bought some linear rails from china and man were they rough, I had to stone the rails and replace the ball bearings to get something I was comfortable with using on my printer.
So far so good. No sticky points, everything slides nicely across the range of motion.
Is just buying a whole, complete Hemera head an OK option? Seems like it elides a lot of this work for ~$100.
This build already looks awesome before you actually use it.
However (and this might be a question for you to rate your printers), when watching the background, I always wonder: What happened to the Seckit you build? When watching the whole video, I noticed that you are indeed using it, but concerning the seemingly awesome printers, I always wonder if they are still awesome in the long run. Concerning how many printers you have in the background, I wonder if they are there for aesthetic reasons, because they just have to fit somewhere, or you sometimes demand lots of printers. Or do you store printers you actually use somewhere else? The Seckit printer seemed to be able to replace a bunch of others. Watching some of the videos where people print using Klipper, it seems like there can be printers fulfilling lots of requirements. Like being fast, reliable, reasonably big and user-friendly. Adding a tool changer could fulfill the demand for many materials. If you have cubes, is there any reason to keep many i3 style printers except for testing upgrades? But you seem to have a lot of i3 style printers. Or do they keep coming? You seem to often use your Prusa printer, although you already have printers, which have linear rails and maybe even more advanced extruders. Doesn't the Seckit outperform it?
P.S.: I guess, if you have very fast cubes, there is no need for delta printers, because they only take up more space, or is there?
P.S.: Damn, I actually wanted my own cube printer and already bought quite a lot of parts, but that one ships from Portugal and fulfills quite a lot of my demands. I would have bought it, if you started your video series earlier and I might, if I fail to build my own one. In theory it seems to be really great.I don't like printed parts in printers, but in the Rat Rig many parts seem to be supported by metal.
Pretty much all of the printers in the background still get used. Some are modified for specific purposes, like a big nozzle for printing large parts fast, a small nozzle for small, precise parts, a TPU specialist extruder, etc. The Seckit is going well, apart from the WIFI thingy I added not always liking talking to my router. One some days it will disconnect mid file upload and that is a bit of a deal breaker. I was actually going to print all of the Rat Rig parts on the Seckit for the quality but that's when it started playing up and I have to find some time to investigate and fix it.
@@TeachingTech Thx for the update on that matter. I would have expected that you reduced the number of printers, which are actually in use.
On the other hand it makes sense, that a printer optimized for a purpose and being ready in that configuration is faster to start up than one, which is just capable of multiple things, but it has to be configured slightly different.
Also, I expected some printers just to be inconvenient. I always suspect maintanance on the rolls of the Ender3 to be annoying (but I own 2 Anycubic i3 Mega printers and for some reason they seem to be the top choice, so I don't have any proof). On the other hand, it might be a very easy thing, especially when knowing which tension to use and how to spot problems before they become problematic.
Hi @Teaching Tech , Super nice build serries. Decided to build my net printer as a Rat Rig due to you clips. I have 2 questions I hope you can share your experince with me; 1. I read some people have problems with the Orbitter Stepper overheating. How is your experience in this? 2. If you add the E3D V6 hotend to the weight, would you not be better off with a BiQu H2 extruder that has the hotend integrated and looks about the same All-Up-Weight? Hope you decide to share your experience with me/us! (ps. I LOVE your printer-tuning website!)
Hello. What is the wall count that I should use for the EVA ?
Why aren't you installing a thermal fuse on the bed, just in case the SSR fails?
The custom Keenovo Heat Pad sold with the printer already includes a thermal fuse.
So... when you gonna build a K2 or K3 ?
+1
Do you have any info on doing dual extrusion with this printer? I still feel like for FDM to be super versatile we need to use soluble supports
Complete in the same page with you! Idex will cut print volume, maybe tool change with 2 independent heads?
besides your amazing content. between the rat rig and the sekit go what has the better instructions to follow?
When I built the Seckit it was the first one in the wild and things were a work in progress. These instructions are better but I'm not sure how the Seckit instructions have progressed. Nothing to stop you comparing both side by side.
I WANT ONE
How much it cost you to build the whole build ? (including the filament as well)
I'll add it all up at the end once it's printing.
What are the advantages of using a kinematic bed?
1) Unconstrained mounting points - bed plates expand as they heat up. If their mounting points are unmovable, the bed will have no room to expand to the sides, and it will be forced to bow (either upwards or downwards). The V-Core 3 bed plate is not rigidly connected to the machine's frame. Instead, 3 steel balls connected to the bed sit on low friction dowel pins. The pins act like a pair of rails for the steel balls, guiding their movement as the bed expands and ensuring that only radial movement is possible - there's zero margin for lateral movement. This means that while your plate is firmly in place, it can still remain perfectly flat as it expands. The weight of the bed would be enough to ensure that the bed can't move in non-radial directions, but for extra sturdiness, magnets mounted on the Z arms provide additional resistance, to make sure the bed never moves from the intended position. 2) Automatic bed-levelling - forget about having to manually level your bed. Since the bed only has 3 mounting points, which are connected to 3 independently driven Z motors, bed-levelling is exclusively determined by motor position and can be done 100% electronically - simple and instantaneous.
so, did you take the orbiter of your SK-Go, or was this a second one you had around?
Michael, what matertial did you use to print the parts? PETG?
Yes. More details on the printing settings in part 1.
I have question, why does the kinematic bed only need 3 points on z axis ? Isn't 4 points better than 3 points ?
@@eva-3d948 Oh, I see. So, there's possibility to build the bed with 4 points if I want very rigid bed and no play on XZ/YZ plane but it will be redundant, right ?
@@eva-3d948 Thank you, that helps a lot