“The point is to actually print stuff, not to print stuff in the most Facebook approved way”!!! Phrase of the year! I will steal that phrase and use it. Thank you!
I have a Bambu and I see plenty of people complaining they cant get good bed adhesion. My advice (like yours) is to slow the first layer down. I run mine at 30mm/s on my Bambu and my Enders a painful 20mm/s, but I have zero adhesion problems. I run mostly PLA and I tell the slicer to run 2-3 slow layers and also recommend setting the option for no cooling for a few layers (2-4). With PEI I've seen where even a little cooling from the part or auxiliary fan too close to the plate can cause it to release in spots. No cooling will keep them off for a little bit and give the filament a chance to bond well.
Thank you I'll try slowing my bambu a1 down as I keep getting bits not sticking on the first print or when the print has started it pulls a bits and loosens the print and spoils the print. I'll try your solution n see how that gets on.
Ive been pulling my prints off sliding my filthy oily finger's and nail's to chip the prints off every time, no wonder I have been having adhesion issues, thank you!
Big fan of glue stick (elmers purple for me) and yes, it's ridiculous how so many seem to hate it on good old FB ! It's often the same on guitar groups if you say you use a capo ! Yet as with adhesive, the pros use them as well :-)
0:48 Funny coincidence. My first ever failed print was a Cali Cat that failed at almost the same point and looked nearly identical, except white. I still have it!
In addition to the Elmer's glue sticks, I've had really good results with cheap aerosol hair sprays. I bought a big can of Suave Extra Hold about a year ago, and after hundreds of prints it's probably just about half full!! It comes off in warm water and any residue left over can be mopped up with IPA... but regularly washing your build plate (if removable) is absolutely essential for ensuring adhesion in my experience.
Hello ricky I find you really useful and I always check if there is a video from your channel about the problems I have . Can you make a video on some tips to have nice looking parts
When printing hatchbox abs on my e5s1 i use 240 nozzle 100 bed. A glass bed with Tesco value hair spray (any cheap hair spray) for adhesive and a 5mm brim on my parts
When printing a round object, putting the brim lines inside the diameter (and not only the outside) too can help complete the suction cup. Else, there is a hole in the suction
Hi Ricky. Im a newbie and I love your videos - you make sense. I have an ender 3 v2 neo and I trammed the bed folliwing your video. I got a perfect print. I then tried printing the same model again and it doesn't stick at all. I tried cleaning the bed with IPA and a microfibre cloth between prints. I tried waiting an hour to let everything cool - no help. Do I need to run "levelling" between each print to redefine the mesh. Maybe its time for glue stick. Thank you for your great videos and tips.
Soap and warm water is way better for cleaning than IPA, you could try that first. Also if you have thumbscrews for the bed, make sure they havent loosened, thus untrammed your bed.
As Ricky commented the tool is a standard 0.1mm feeler guage. That mesh is extremely likely a sonic pad/Klipper mesh viewed on mainsail or fluid :) @@joemccall8991
Recently switched from glue stick to Vision Miners Nano Polymer Adhesive. This stuff is legit. compared to glue stick its night and day difference in how many prints i can use it on before reapplication
I recently got a Neptune 4 + and was super happy with it but after a couple prints things started unsticking to the plate so I started professionally leveling it and doing all that and got it to 0.08 and lowest -0.05 but still it would print the first couple of layers kinda ok then unstick and take everything off with it or the nozzle would start grinding on the print so I would decrees the Z offset by 0.1 mm and it would still grind but I would feel safer and sometimes it would stop grinding for a bit and continued again 30 min later I tried different filament and new nozzle and leveling better but it still ruins more prints than I can supply filament for and I’m really running out
i've been having a lot of issues with my Bambu A1 wanting to SPEED through prints, especially with different materials. Definitely worth slowing down and gaining consistent adhesion, quality, and strength.
Try to skip the auto bed leveling for Z height, and adjust this manually and save it to the printer. I have read that the bed probe is too inconcistent
I've got a Creality Ender 3-v2. Initial when i got it i had 100% success rate. Currently I have printed 36 times and only 1 has worked, the first. So my success rate has dropped massively. I've leveled the bed, changed the Z offset, changed the temperate of the bed, changed the speed of the first layer, cleaned with soapy water, cleaned with IP alcohol, used glue stick, adhesive, blue tape, changed slicer software from Creality to Cura .... the only thing I haven't tried is smashing the printer with a baseball bat and seeing it that sticks.
I feel your pain. I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro. It worked fine a month ago. Installed the 4.2.7 MB and CR Touch. Leveled the bed, changed the Z offset, recalibrated the extruder steps/mm. Can't get it to print anything good. If it ain't broke. Don't fix it. Bambu Labs is looking better all the time.
try Rawr firmware for the TFT, its extremely easy to install, IIRC no disassembly required, even if it needed it, it's worth it. Had it in my Genius until I switched to klipper and just installed in a X1 that had the original software that doesn't even had z offset adjust or even babysteps. Night and day mate
i love your tip number 7 but we "pro's" call it Bed Release Agents, not Adhesives Main difference is, for tpu it get stuck to the glue instead your bed so it can be removed with out damaging the layer below it ( glue is first layer ) Some Pei sheets need it for PETG or you tear the pei powder/film off the bed ( Quality control is a other story ) Or like on a glass bed , love to print petg on that one. But glue stick is a must or you take some glass out. There are indeed some cases that a "glue stick" is needed, but then we are talking about vision miner and industrial prints, They warp sooo badly that you need the strong stuff to keep it down ( peek ? ) . For commercial prints glue stick get only used as release agent unless you want it to stick, but then the glue stick is just a masking problem instead of a solution. i do not say it is wrong, i do not say it is right, just informational and i love the video, nice explained :D
I have homework for you... I think you should put together a general purpose periodic printer maintenance video. Just things that need to be checked/adjusted every few weeks, months or years. I'm at the point where my newest printer is about to turn 1 year old and a couple of days ago, its print quality dropped like a stone. I've even had a couple of failures which are the first since I pulled the machine out of the box. So clearly, it needs some TLC. The question is, what does that look like?
Sure, but I would put after the adhesive part that maybe your bed is a consumable and that it does get damaged over time, requiring a purchase of a new bed.
"Levelling" is the correct term, it just needs to be in correct frame of reference, i.e. the printend x/y plane, not the ground. You pretty much explained this then decided to call it tramming which is a term most people understand less than levelling. 🤔
I don't think your z offset advice is correct.. If I home the printer and set it to the thickness of a paper (or feeler gauge) the printer prints as expected. If I go lower than this then my first layers are transparent and or I get over extrusion or bad layer adhesion where they begin peeling up. Not sure which printer you have that is expecting this, but with my Ender and Elegoo this is not true.
It doesn't help if you show that on such an old machine. You should show this on a modern printer like a K1 or a P1S and should stand by the printer to show what you do. Just sitting there is much too theoretical. Don't like this video. You are capable of explaining this way better. For example you show the 3dlac but i think it would be better If you show people how much 3dlac you use for the plate. Many people do not know. So... Please do more practical Videos. Thanks!!
Actually this is most relevant with older less advanced machines. Ricky's videos are 100% on point every time or he edits :) There is no practical way to cover all possible "correct amount of adhesive" really as it varies wildly per individual brand, print, material, temp, environment and bed type.
“The point is to actually print stuff, not to print stuff in the most Facebook approved way”!!!
Phrase of the year!
I will steal that phrase and use it.
Thank you!
I have a Bambu and I see plenty of people complaining they cant get good bed adhesion. My advice (like yours) is to slow the first layer down. I run mine at 30mm/s on my Bambu and my Enders a painful 20mm/s, but I have zero adhesion problems. I run mostly PLA and I tell the slicer to run 2-3 slow layers and also recommend setting the option for no cooling for a few layers (2-4). With PEI I've seen where even a little cooling from the part or auxiliary fan too close to the plate can cause it to release in spots. No cooling will keep them off for a little bit and give the filament a chance to bond well.
Thank you I'll try slowing my bambu a1 down as I keep getting bits not sticking on the first print or when the print has started it pulls a bits and loosens the print and spoils the print. I'll try your solution n see how that gets on.
Thank you so much! The part with the thickness of the paper and the actual z offset helped me. Now my prints finally work
Tack!
Very good summary and information. This is becoming very crucial to learn about and master as faster and faster printers make bed adhesion more vital.
Ive been pulling my prints off sliding my filthy oily finger's and nail's to chip the prints off every time, no wonder I have been having adhesion issues, thank you!
Thanks for the direct, practical and informative video
Big fan of glue stick (elmers purple for me) and yes, it's ridiculous how so many seem to hate it on good old FB ! It's often the same on guitar groups if you say you use a capo ! Yet as with adhesive, the pros use them as well :-)
so i need to try a glue stick. im in a fb group and they are all buttholes lol
0:48 Funny coincidence. My first ever failed print was a Cali Cat that failed at almost the same point and looked nearly identical, except white. I still have it!
Very useful info, much appreciated!
In addition to the Elmer's glue sticks, I've had really good results with cheap aerosol hair sprays. I bought a big can of Suave Extra Hold about a year ago, and after hundreds of prints it's probably just about half full!! It comes off in warm water and any residue left over can be mopped up with IPA... but regularly washing your build plate (if removable) is absolutely essential for ensuring adhesion in my experience.
awesome tips..... thanks alot. 👍👍👍
why did u have ur glass plate on ur ender printer upside down?
or does it just look like that bc i am looking at the sides and it looks upside down
Hello ricky I find you really useful and I always check if there is a video from your channel about the problems I have . Can you make a video on some tips to have nice looking parts
When printing hatchbox abs on my e5s1 i use 240 nozzle 100 bed. A glass bed with Tesco value hair spray (any cheap hair spray) for adhesive and a 5mm brim on my parts
Good Tips.
Step 8 do not be afraid of using brims and a deburring tool to finish your prints
When printing a round object, putting the brim lines inside the diameter (and not only the outside) too can help complete the suction cup. Else, there is a hole in the suction
Hi Ricky. Im a newbie and I love your videos - you make sense.
I have an ender 3 v2 neo and I trammed the bed folliwing your video.
I got a perfect print. I then tried printing the same model again and it doesn't stick at all.
I tried cleaning the bed with IPA and a microfibre cloth between prints. I tried waiting an hour to let everything cool - no help.
Do I need to run "levelling" between each print to redefine the mesh.
Maybe its time for glue stick.
Thank you for your great videos and tips.
Soap and warm water is way better for cleaning than IPA, you could try that first. Also if you have thumbscrews for the bed, make sure they havent loosened, thus untrammed your bed.
Nice advices 🇨🇾👍🏻
My main problem is the nozzle is too high. Even though i've set the z offset. it's still printing at a higher Z
Just wonderin What tool did you use to help level the bedding? Cant find it anywhere lol
It might have been Bed Leveler Visualizer, couldn't quite tell from the image but similar to what I see on my OctoPrint install
Do you mean the feeler gauge? Have a look at one of the bed leveling videos in the description for a better description of how to do that stage.
As Ricky commented the tool is a standard 0.1mm feeler guage. That mesh is extremely likely a sonic pad/Klipper mesh viewed on mainsail or fluid :) @@joemccall8991
Thank you very much for theses tips ;) Very usefull ! And not for Facebook approval xD
Recently switched from glue stick to Vision Miners Nano Polymer Adhesive. This stuff is legit. compared to glue stick its night and day difference in how many prints i can use it on before reapplication
How about using brim or raft before using a bed adhesive?
Ricky listed adhesive as LAST RESORT! Which automatically includes basics such as slicer based adhesion options.
I recently got a Neptune 4 + and was super happy with it but after a couple prints things started unsticking to the plate so I started professionally leveling it and doing all that and got it to 0.08 and lowest -0.05 but still it would print the first couple of layers kinda ok then unstick and take everything off with it or the nozzle would start grinding on the print so I would decrees the Z offset by 0.1 mm and it would still grind but I would feel safer and sometimes it would stop grinding for a bit and continued again 30 min later I tried different filament and new nozzle and leveling better but it still ruins more prints than I can supply filament for and I’m really running out
I've been living the dream by sticking a layer of laminating pouch to the bed rough side up with UHU glue. Sticks well. Peels well.
Please help me how did I go from the one on the left to the one on the right. I am sure it is something simple I just can’t figure it out
My Ender3 bed is not flat.. its lower in the middle.
I used alu tape and stuck a piece or 3 on the magnetic surface to shim it.
i've been having a lot of issues with my Bambu A1 wanting to SPEED through prints, especially with different materials. Definitely worth slowing down and gaining consistent adhesion, quality, and strength.
Hello, I have an ender 3v3se and I struggle greatly with first layers. Can you offer any advice on the so called auto bed levelling?
Try to skip the auto bed leveling for Z height, and adjust this manually and save it to the printer.
I have read that the bed probe is too inconcistent
I have tried adjusting my z offset but it only goes down or up in 0.5 each time
I've got a Creality Ender 3-v2. Initial when i got it i had 100% success rate. Currently I have printed 36 times and only 1 has worked, the first. So my success rate has dropped massively. I've leveled the bed, changed the Z offset, changed the temperate of the bed, changed the speed of the first layer, cleaned with soapy water, cleaned with IP alcohol, used glue stick, adhesive, blue tape, changed slicer software from Creality to Cura .... the only thing I haven't tried is smashing the printer with a baseball bat and seeing it that sticks.
I feel your pain. I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro. It worked fine a month ago. Installed the 4.2.7 MB and CR Touch. Leveled the bed, changed the Z offset, recalibrated the extruder steps/mm. Can't get it to print anything good. If it ain't broke. Don't fix it. Bambu Labs is looking better all the time.
I have the artillery x2 and setting the Z-offset is a complete pain in the ass
try Rawr firmware for the TFT, its extremely easy to install, IIRC no disassembly required, even if it needed it, it's worth it.
Had it in my Genius until I switched to klipper and just installed in a X1 that had the original software that doesn't even had z offset adjust or even babysteps.
Night and day mate
Nice, I always (well mostly) use a glue stick. Life is too short for failed prints 🤪
Any recommendations on where to start on a ender 3 pro I got it second hand and everything I do I just can't get it to work right
what problems are you facing?
@RafaAelM I managed to get it running ok now took it apart and reassembled it from scratch
I remove the cr touch on my Ender-3 and the manual setting the bed with the rubbers and glass bed with glue its very nice
i love your tip number 7
but we "pro's" call it Bed Release Agents, not Adhesives
Main difference is, for tpu it get stuck to the glue instead your bed so it can be removed with out damaging the layer below it ( glue is first layer )
Some Pei sheets need it for PETG or you tear the pei powder/film off the bed ( Quality control is a other story )
Or like on a glass bed , love to print petg on that one. But glue stick is a must or you take some glass out.
There are indeed some cases that a "glue stick" is needed, but then we are talking about vision miner and industrial prints, They warp sooo badly that you need the strong stuff to keep it down ( peek ? ) .
For commercial prints glue stick get only used as release agent unless you want it to stick, but then the glue stick is just a masking problem instead of a solution.
i do not say it is wrong, i do not say it is right, just informational
and i love the video, nice explained :D
I have homework for you... I think you should put together a general purpose periodic printer maintenance video. Just things that need to be checked/adjusted every few weeks, months or years. I'm at the point where my newest printer is about to turn 1 year old and a couple of days ago, its print quality dropped like a stone. I've even had a couple of failures which are the first since I pulled the machine out of the box. So clearly, it needs some TLC. The question is, what does that look like?
Sure, but I would put after the adhesive part that maybe your bed is a consumable and that it does get damaged over time, requiring a purchase of a new bed.
Most beds these days will outlast the machine if looked after and careful. They are not officially classified as consumables with 98% of models.
What about HDPE I TRIED ALMOST EVERYTHING
"Levelling" is the correct term, it just needs to be in correct frame of reference, i.e. the printend x/y plane, not the ground. You pretty much explained this then decided to call it tramming which is a term most people understand less than levelling. 🤔
I don't think your z offset advice is correct.. If I home the printer and set it to the thickness of a paper (or feeler gauge) the printer prints as expected. If I go lower than this then my first layers are transparent and or I get over extrusion or bad layer adhesion where they begin peeling up. Not sure which printer you have that is expecting this, but with my Ender and Elegoo this is not true.
Elmer can keep his glue sticks lol. I spent 25 minutes trying to remove a flexi Llama corn from my glass bed. Sticks TOO good
It doesn't help if you show that on such an old machine. You should show this on a modern printer like a K1 or a P1S and should stand by the printer to show what you do. Just sitting there is much too theoretical. Don't like this video. You are capable of explaining this way better. For example you show the 3dlac but i think it would be better If you show people how much 3dlac you use for the plate. Many people do not know. So... Please do more practical Videos. Thanks!!
Actually this is most relevant with older less advanced machines. Ricky's videos are 100% on point every time or he edits :) There is no practical way to cover all possible "correct amount of adhesive" really as it varies wildly per individual brand, print, material, temp, environment and bed type.