@@adamswindle1125 yes, every city has a drywall supply house that you can purchase all of the steel stud, drywall, taping, insulation materials and tools. if you need more help let me know!
Been hanging and metel framing for 10 years and I never thought to use a piece of conduit to set the mushroom head anchors. I usually use my hatchet. Nice video dude.
I like your comment about "even if you have drawings, you need to still ensure locations". As a technologist, we can only be 1/16" accurate at best. Even harder for existing conditions as this video is.
Absolutely, and it's completely understandable as well. Until we have fully integrated augmented reality / intelligence into our workflow the boots on the ground guys (me) need to know how to find accurate answers without going through the RFI process. Cheers man I appreciate the comment!
I’m a project manager for steel stud construction and your videos have been great to better understand what our crew is doing on the daily. Found you while looking for Hilti DX351 videos. I enjoy your long form first person videos. Keep it up 👍🏼 just noticed you are in Edmonton I’m in Calgary lol
Very cool! It is always nice to hear what people think and to know what jobs they do. I've had teachers, architects and engineers all watching too to see what goes on in the field. Calgary, yes that is really cool, I am scheduled to be down in Calgary in 2 weeks to build some steel stud houses, big expensive houses.
Do I need to build a wall? Nope. Can I read a blueprint? Nope. Do I have any idea whatsoever you are talking about? Nope again. BUT, am I here to support your awesome channel? Yes, yes I am! Watching this whole vid and maybe I’ll learn something that I will never put to use. I do use power tools though! 😂 Good to see ya Chris! PS...You had 5 of those “Trap” so-called music channels leaving comments. I reported them all for you, and they disappeared. So many channels, including mine, have been hit by those bots/scammers.
Construction Kronies Chris...I tried to dm you on Twitter but it says “you cannot contact this account.” IDK! Maybe you try to dm me? Or email me...my email on my about page. Those “Trap” channel comments were visible to me here again. Can you see them? Report every one as spam!
Great video 🙏🏼 I remember the first time I put up metal studs. The owner wanted me to take all the screws out of the old ones first...i was so tired my mom ask when I came home ...are you ok ?..i said no I screwed studs all day...she looked like this 😳😳....i didn't know there was another meaning to that 😂😂🤣
Right on man I love hearing this!! The best apprentice is the guy taking the time to learn and be better. Learn how to get everything ready ahead for your journeyman and remember too he may have his own ways of doing things but the end product should be the same and the more time you can save and the quicker you get man that's awesome!
Chris that was a dope vid! I set it up so I could watch the vid while I was outside chopping wood and google is so smart that it heard me chopping wood and I got 3 axe commercials while your vid is on. F@%king spooky man! I didnt think it could identify sounds. Your background music had me cracking up.
We connect our wall channel putting the two flat sides together. This way the sides aren’t over lapping and you can screw them together straight down in the center of the channel instead of the sides.
Do those pin bolts meet code for exterior walls/shear? (I'm in the highest seismic zone)How close to the concrete edge is allowed by code? Is everything 16ga?
Thanks for the awesome and detailed video, it helped a lot. Is there any way you could make a video covering the framing material takeoff looking at the blueprint? Thanks
Sure I can do that. I do have lots of videos explaining prints but not on doing a take off. I will do that. Just know that for every 1 ft of wall you will need 1 stud. Cheers!
Excellent video! For the crc bracing, if the spec calls for Swiftclip or Fastbridge clips to fix the crc to the studs at the punchouts, every how often do these go in?
I just watched your video. Awesome! How much do you charge for stud walls? I just hot a call and asked me to do it but have no idea hiw much i should charge. It is 16’ high wall
Hey my good man. I charge $0.45 / square foot for steel stud. If it's light gauge and easy you can drop as low as 0.35 and for 18-16 gauge go as high as 0.65. also charge $2/ linear foot for angle in columns, soffit and bulkheads.
Hey my man, so we actually never install kickers when a wall goes from floor to underside of structure. If you are looking at the tops here those angles are structural red iron supports and are done by the iron workers👍
Are your studs full height, or did you join shorter studs together? I need to frame a 28' high wall, tall I can find locally are 96" long studs. Can I join these together to get the height I need?
Bizarrely, they don't sell those channel strips in UK, you have to cut your own noggins using channel parts. I'm going to hunt around because that looks so much easier.
@@ConstructionKronies we have strips that act as braces which are attached to outside facing edges in an X shape both sides. I prefer the channel running through the centre though.
Great video and I love that you are from Edmonton. I want to build four exterior shop walls out of 18 gauge commercial steel studs but I want to know how best to anchor the 16’ high wall to the 8” wide concrete grade beam. The wall is 72’ long so would you build it in 10 sections?
I would need to know more about your set up but we just build into structure, for 16' high you will need a lift, so yes you can set the track stud it out, move over and repeat till your done just be sure to set an offset of 2 to 4" for your laser line. For anchors you can use the 1/4" pin bolts for concrete im using here in the video, thats a 16g wall im building there. There are other things I've seen like the 1/2" or 5/8" concrete anchors im on my phone right now but drop me a reply and I will link you to the products.
I'm wondering whether or not that you could do a video on building a low wall? Where the wall is being built off a wall that is going to the pan decking. Wondering where I would put my Kickers & how it keep the wall plum as I'm building it. And how to keep the wall sturdy and plum when I'm finished?
Dude I totally will, but before I do just know that you need to build clips out of stud to fit into the q deck for walls or bulkheads that go to underside of structure. Always remember all you need is backing, something to attach to, like Lego. Always use lasers to plumb and level your walls and ceilings. If you ever have anything specific to ask me about a job your on take a photo and send it to me, email or Discord.
Also pony or knee walls are small, they just need you to make sure your elevation is correct, put 2 screws in your middle studs, and or end studs, always check your elevation at both ends and middle and square everything, always take the time to square studs top and bottom, you spend time to level your tracks, split the beam, so so it all right. Make good use of your tape measure, if you have a level or plumb benchmark you can measure over , up or down and it will also be level or plumb.
One last thing I forgot, about the clips, you can also build clips to between wall studs so you can attach lower walls to them. I shoot a clip at both ends of the wall right at elevation so I can use them as marks and install clips at the middle and at the bottom I just screw the lower wall stud to the higher wall bottom track. You can attach kickers to anything, just make sure your good over 4 feet. If your wall can't be braced every 4 ft then you have to up the gauge. 20 gauge is good for 20 ft.
@@ConstructionKronies gettlerraymond8@gmail.com that is my email, I know it would be out of your way, but if you do have the time maybe you could give me a couple pictures of what you mean by clips? Or anything else that you think that would help me out while I'm building these walls. This wall is about 10 ft tall maybe a little higher but it doesn't go to the pandecking. But we are attaching it to the walls that are going all the way to the pan decking, or the soffits that we built. Also as well I need your email and when I get pictures next week I will be sure to always give you pictures, and thank you so much for your help.
You don't have to but I highly recommend it. You don't need to clip it out, it's just good to have the wall channel in every 4' it's cheap and quick and the benefits are huge.
I do commercial framing full time. Normally we use Hilti steel shots for fixing locking-studs to iron. I know that pins work just as good as hex heads. I’ve had to relocate many walls, and pins are serious business, they are engineered to hang-on for dear life. Even when you use a claw to remove them, they aren’t easy to pull out.
We usually use shots as well. But this 15 gauge stud man, shots don't work so great. I agree the buggers can be difficult to remove. I find that using two claw hammers man, works the best to get em out. Cheers bro💪
I didn't caulk the top track there. That slotted track is fire rated now. We used to seal it with the red fire stop. I shot the top track on with the Hilti dx-351 and steel pins. There are other ways for sure even self drilling techs but that takes much longer. Let me know if you have anymore questions my man!!
What if you don't have a beam on the ceiling to tie in to? I'm building a tasting room inside a building almost identical to this and the divider wall ties in to the edge of the beam sealing it off from my space.
I'm a local 951 4th stage lather, been lathing throughout my apprenticeship but I've been wanting to master the art of framing . I know a little bit but one thing I can't grasp is setting up the layout for the studs so drywall falls perfectly in place especially pulling of inside or outside corners. When should I add the 5/8 to the layout and when shouldn't I and when to simply go every 16. The journeyman at work usually pull from the outside corner of the track but I seen your videos where you pull from the inside of the track behind the floater...
When I pull my tape to draw centers I'm still taking them from the outside of the track I'm just doing my layout on the inside of the room instead of the outside. When I add the 1/2" or 5/8" I do that when I'm pulling centers for side walls. I try to pull all my centers from the same direction to keep the flow of drywall consistent. There is a lot going on here maybe hard to explain properly. Does that make sense to you?
@@ConstructionKronies ok so if my layout starts on the side of a track where drywall passes I should add 5/8 but if my next wall starts from the corner behind the floater I should just do every 16 ?
Small question, doing my basement with Metal stud, can I instal my metal track right on the basement concrete, or I need to Caulk like you do? or maybe use a PT wood then screw my metal track on it?
I would definitely use the caulking. You can purchase it at any drywall supply house maybe even a home depot. I found a suitable one here on Amazon if you are in the states, if you are in Canada let me know I have a different solution. amzn.to/3L3IWVP
So what i would do for 22 ft and couldn't use studs more than 10 feet i would just put standard track at the top of the fist section go track to track and build another section and then another. Use your deflection track at the very top.
We used the Hilti DX 351 steel to steel pins with green or yellow tabs. For screws we used #8 self drilling framing screws (but not to attach to structural those screws are for the studs to track).
Very impressive work! I need to build a similar bulkhead but the height is 31'. Any suggestions on what studs to use? I am considering Clark Dietrich 550PDS125-30 33ksi G40EQ 16" oc. Any advice would be highly appreciated.
Yes the 6" 20 gauge is great for interior applications. If you are framing for an exterior wall bump it up to 18 gauge. 31' elevation is neat, how wide are you going?
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks for the quick reply. Interior wall, full length is 110', but it will not be in one straight. Goes across warehouse for about 75', breaks 90deg right for 16', then 90 deg left for the remaining 18'. So the wall will be supported on both ends of the warehouse, but it is not in one straight shot.
This guy is no journeyman. I wouldn't make any money on my projects if I wasted as much time as this guy lol! It's definitely a cute little video though 😅. Love the tenacity!
Like you wasting so much time leaving me these smart ass comments? I don't have to scab my work because I charge enough. I do 2 x braces plus 100 feet or a straight 300 to 400 ft of exterior in an 8hr day with 1 helper, you think that's slow, I think we know it's not.
@@ConstructionKronies oh ya, also, 'wall channel' or cold rolled channel is definitely not for holding insulation up. It prevents studs from rolling and provides rigidity. Fyi.
Offsets are used when we have obstacles in the way of the lasers, for long exterior walls or for transferring lines from floor to floor or something like that.
You can install a stud wall, sheat it with dens gold, apply blueskin and then use an adhesive or long screw with these round washers to install the rigid insulation.
I am planning to add a couple of bedrooms and bathrooms to a large water-front building and want to do it all with metal studs. But in gathering information I have heard that metal on concrete will eventually rust, and some people out there swear that pressure-treated lumber should be used. Does the sealant you use prevent rust and corrosion?
I use a sliding scale. I start at $4.50 / lf for easy low height walls, then work up to $13.50 for taller heavy gauge. For parapet I charge $15/lf and for ceilings i switch up to square foot, $0.40 to $0.80/sf. For bulkheads I charge $2/ft for angle plus $0.45 to $0.65 /sf. Don't forget anything when pricing a job. If you have really complicated stuff don't be afraid to charge more. Start with those numbers then feel your response from the client. Everyone developes into their own pricing strategy over time.
Never heard of anybody putting up top track before bottom All you gotta do is spilt the track on the bottom with a dot laser on both sides of ur track or shine a line all the way down
Yes, I like to put the top on first just out of habit. Most jobs you want the top on first so the bottom track isn't in the way of your lifts or scaffolds !
This will help me a lot, but do you really have to used conduit to drive the pin bolts down? I just hit them twice with a baby sledge or hammer and be done with it.
Right on good to hear and no you don't need to use the conduit at all. I most of teh time just use the clay side of my hammer. The conduit is good for long runs. This 16 gauge steel here is heavy duty so it's a good idea to ensure the bolts are in properly. I'm going to try that and see how the sledge hammer idea works, never done it that way! Cheers!
Sure, but not for this 16 gauge, you can't shoot 16 gauge it has to be drilled down. And Hilti shots red is for super heavy duty steel and a DX 460 for the 351s, use the green tabs for concrete and the yellow for steel👍
How does steel framing work in terms of insulation in the long run? Metal transfers heat very efficiently and I wonder if it would impact utility costs or comfort inside the house.
This is the interesting thing about steel stud. The insulation goes inside of them. For example insulation for wood walls is 15" wide and for steel is 17" wide. So you get more consistent coverage.
Steel stud can transfer cold into the wall system and create condensation. Most commercial exterior stud use a sealed membrane on the exterior sheathing and then an "outsulation". Insulation outside the wall system, between a cladding carrier system that is attached to the steel stud wall with a thermal barrier. The clips are not metallic.
Great question. I'm editing a new series that explains how to do that. We use temp bracing along with some other techniques. Way too much to explain here.
Will you please do a video on parapet framing and walls the clip to the building, go past the roof and act as the parapet wall also. I don't know the exact term. Please include the fastest ways possible. I'm trying to learn as fast as possible. I tested into the union but, I am no metal stud framing expert. I have 20 years in construction not all commercial. Please, anything will help, thank you. I've been thrown into both, I'm learning on the go. The parapet was easy but, there are obvious differences to every type of wall framing.
Yes I am really trying to land some of this framing. For the suspended walls that run up past the roof to make parapets as well what you have to do is shoot clips to the structure. Basically what I do is set 2 to 3 studs perfectly level and plumb for every 10 foot piece of track. This is also a good time to use an offset. What you do is use the laser handset to mark the back side of where the studs will land onto the clips so that when you have your top and bottom track set with those 2 to 3 studs you can then fill in the rest easily. When joining tracks together here use little pieces of stud. I like to use a rotating laser for levelling the studs and then a line laser to shoot the bottom elevation. All the studs should be cut the same length so that after you have set the bottom track the top track just has to sit tight on the top (no need to level both). When up on the roof I set the rotating laser to shoot in the top elevation, go around setting in your bottom track (make sure the plywood on the qdeck has membrane (AVB like Blueskin) and laying out your studs while writing your stud lengths down on the track. Cut your studs and set in your top track with 2 to 3 studs. You can go ahead setting top track and your helper can come behind studding the rest out. Hope that helps my good man!!
@@ConstructionKronies Chris, I appreciate you taking the time to respond so quickly. I have already done everything you talked about, remember, I was thrown into the fire, because I am already a journeyman they kind of expect me to know or at least ask questions. Like I said in my comment, the parapet was cake because I had already been working right next to the carpenters that were doing it previously on the same building. Also I have 20 years experience, I'm no expert but, I catch on quickly especially having a lot of years in wood framing. But nonetheless I did everything you talked about. This is our procedure, my GF set the bottom track first oddly enough, it was set on the exterior of the building so clipping it off was no problem, that was done all from a zoom boom/ 65. Bottom track, clips, then we set up the spinner on it's side and marked every 4-6 feet on the clip and did exactly what you said except for a bit closer together. Anyhow I ended up taking a little longer than expected because I wasn't sure of the best way to set up the laser for the elevation of the top track. There were some louvers in the wall, and every good carpenter knows to frame their openings first before you stud in the wall. You know the stigma of the union, the journeyman that test in get treated differently/ like shit. That doesn't bother me because I'm willing to learn and want to be best I can be. Thank you so much, I appreciate you more than you know, have a great day. MORE VIDEOS 😁
dude! I love it! Your actually one of the very few that knows to frame your opening first, you would not believe how many times over the years I have had to cut holes and patch! Good stuff!! I always talk to the foreman for the hvac, plumbing, sprinkler and even electric to find out about openings first thing!!! Super!
Hey my man, sorry for the late reply, it's been a busy week. You need a pouch set up, electrical tool pouch and 4 pocket screw pouch with belt and suspenders. And impact driver, drywall screw gun, drywall cut out tool, snips (red handles wiss) 25' tape measure, speed square, markers and pencils will get you going with the big boys in the trade. Email me and I can go into more specific details.
18:00 to 18:24 can you explain what is meant at the segment starting at 18:00? I don't understand what is meant by pointing toward the drywall. Isn't the drywall going to be on each end of the wall as well as both sides of the studs? Which drywall is the hard side supposed to be pointing to? Especially in the case where drywall is on each end of the wall like in a house? Thanks
Hey there great question. The metal studs have a hard side and a soft side. The hard side is the flat and the soft side are the flanges. When we layout our studs we point them in the direction we draw our tape measure from sonthe drywaller knows where to start. And yes the drywall will be at the ends and both side. What I mean is we usually laser or level up the first sheet somewhere in the wall and then cut in our end pieces. Does that help? I can draw you a diagram next time I'm live too.
Hey, Great video. I use these as instruction since we are teaching virtually during COVID-19. I hate that I can't use this video because you have used the F word during the video.
O no I did? I can edit that out right from UA-cam. Let me see what I can do. It will take a day to process. Thank you for using my videos! I try to catch all of the swears in editing.
I can get you a link when I'm back on PC but I'm using the Hilti DX 351 steel to steel pins I can't remember the exact size. I also have the cartridge for the strips of pins and. Each gun type has its own fasteners. I was using green tabs for shots as well, I can control the power on this gun as well for switching between concrete and the various steel to steel installs.
This specific wall I charged $7.34 / sf to finish both sides to fire tape. But this spec is very odd with 2' o.c. and 16 gauge steel. For labor on installing drywall and finishing taped for primer charge $1.65 / s.f. then add in material. Steel I charge by linear foot depending on the height. Basic 8' walls I charge $4.50 to $6.50, 8' to 12' I charge $15 and up to 20' I charge $25 and above 20" I charge $35.
23:00 min mark give or take them studs Did not look plum I’m assuming you used a fish eye lens or something I was like what that’s not plum but I’m sure them studs are lol
Yeah I use a GoPro and get a lot of complaints about the lens. I have a new studio almost completed and got a cinema camera to shoot much better quality video. Coming this fall!!
Great video! Quick question so for people that do wood framing, they can get C5 (carpentry) license and start theie business. How is ot for people that have experience with stud metal framing. Is there a license as well ?
Actually no liscence required. When I piece work or contract its best to invoice through a corporation like a Ltd and have tax numbers, workers comp and possibly insurance like liability. There is an apprenticeship program for LISM Lather interior systems mechanic. Even for wood framing, you can be hired with or without a ticket. Basically if yiu can do the work you have a shot.
hey there thank you for the comment. I remembering editing the video and I didn't have good footage for that part. But here is a video on the powder actuated gun (Hilti DX351) That I use for shooting all my steel to steel and concrete. ua-cam.com/video/wf6Y0EXB0ds/v-deo.html I hope this helps and if you have any questions please let me know!!!
Meant to ask, when fastening the studs to the track, do you run both sides from the same side in the same direction (the framing screws) or each side from the outside in?
Yes bro! When I am doing the top of the studs I reach though and screw them in from the one side but the bottoms I screw in on each side if that makes sense?
@@ConstructionKronies i, personally, like the pointed end of the framing screws piercing through on the opposite side. Makes for a good anchor of sorts when hanging the drywall. Lol. Although some inspectors won't allow the screws to face the same direction on opposite sides. A-holes. 🤣
@@meagaindave2049 Right bro yes that's how I do it too but in this case it's a steel column behind that drywall and so I cant do that there but your 100% right that's the best way to do it when its accessible!
How much do I charge on Kentucky for a big office project ? I having a hard time try to prove metal framing, can someone put me on the right direction?
@@rodoloforodriguez6156 This is what I charge in Canada, just convert it to USD. 0.27 sf for drywall, 0.15 for insulation, 0.32 for tape plus 1.00 per foot of bead, 0.40 sf for steel and 50.00 for each door. If you have to tape windows charge 500 each.
Cool bro! I've been planning for years now a massive drywall Olympics, I don't have all the support yet but would be awesome to meet up and learn from each other.
They have Sheetrock hanging tournaments. I've seen clips of it. But yeah, I would be down for sure. It'd be fun to learn other people's lingo and techniques.
why dont you just use the nail gun that takes 22 cal blanks? it shoots the nail right straight thru the stud and into the floor/concrete it would save you alot of time.
Because this is 16 gauge steel and designers will always spec it this way. The shots won't do the job here but will work shooting steel to steel! Good to see yo bro!
Yeah I use the 1/4" pinbolts for my anchors especially for this 16 gauge. I'll have to srub through the video to see if I missed clarifying that. Thanks for the heads up👍
Who said anything about scabbing work? Certainly not me. My works extremely clean. Your defensiveness makes me wonder though. Anyway, I like your principals and fundamentals, you clearly know how to frame, but if this video actually portrays your work flow, then I promise my partner and I could blow you out of the water lol.
Sorry man, these videos I do take time to make and unless I'm showing a time-lapse or sequence it doesn't show me how I am when I'm not filming. I try to film and get as much as I can in to show people. Please accept my apology. I've been a bit cranky lately with this documentary I'm just finishing up on the homeless encampments here in my city, have been seeing crazy stuff.
Become a metal stud framing pro by watching these: bit.ly/CommercialMetalFraming
@@baileymetalproductslimited301 You got it! Yes we use you for almost everything, very good product.
@@ConstructionKronies can you please tell me where to get these supplies
@@adamswindle1125 yes, every city has a drywall supply house that you can purchase all of the steel stud, drywall, taping, insulation materials and tools. if you need more help let me know!
Mfw no experience watching this video before walking onto a job site😂
Are you in steel stud and drywall?
@@ConstructionKronies yessir wasn't altogether too difficult but I had others keeping an eye out
Lol they prob gonna have u hang drywall. Hope u get lucky n they have u start framing right away
That's me
Been hanging and metel framing for 10 years and I never thought to use a piece of conduit to set the mushroom head anchors. I usually use my hatchet. Nice video dude.
Hey thanks man! I appreciate that! I bet I would learn a trick or two from you as well!
Thanks a lot, videos on high wall structures like this one are pretty hard to find, so glad you covered it!
I like your comment about "even if you have drawings, you need to still ensure locations". As a technologist, we can only be 1/16" accurate at best. Even harder for existing conditions as this video is.
Absolutely, and it's completely understandable as well. Until we have fully integrated augmented reality / intelligence into our workflow the boots on the ground guys (me) need to know how to find accurate answers without going through the RFI process. Cheers man I appreciate the comment!
I’m a project manager for steel stud construction and your videos have been great to better understand what our crew is doing on the daily. Found you while looking for Hilti DX351 videos. I enjoy your long form first person videos. Keep it up 👍🏼 just noticed you are in Edmonton I’m in Calgary lol
Very cool! It is always nice to hear what people think and to know what jobs they do. I've had teachers, architects and engineers all watching too to see what goes on in the field. Calgary, yes that is really cool, I am scheduled to be down in Calgary in 2 weeks to build some steel stud houses, big expensive houses.
Do I need to build a wall? Nope. Can I read a blueprint? Nope. Do I have any idea whatsoever you are talking about? Nope again. BUT, am I here to support your awesome channel? Yes, yes I am! Watching this whole vid and maybe I’ll learn something that I will never put to use. I do use power tools though! 😂 Good to see ya Chris! PS...You had 5 of those “Trap” so-called music channels leaving comments. I reported them all for you, and they disappeared. So many channels, including mine, have been hit by those bots/scammers.
Awwh man, seriously, I thought they were strange but I didnt know the extent. Can you DM me on Twitter so we can talk?
Construction Kronies Chris...I tried to dm you on Twitter but it says “you cannot contact this account.” IDK! Maybe you try to dm me? Or email me...my email on my about page. Those “Trap” channel comments were visible to me here again. Can you see them? Report every one as spam!
Tremendous video. Appreciate you time and I learned a bunch!
Thanks man, I appreciate the comment!
Great video 🙏🏼 I remember the first time I put up metal studs. The owner wanted me to take all the screws out of the old ones first...i was so tired my mom ask when I came home ...are you ok ?..i said no I screwed studs all day...she looked like this 😳😳....i didn't know there was another meaning to that 😂😂🤣
Lol! Hey girl! How you been?
Omg... haha your mom is the best! Thanks Rain ❤💖
@@ConstructionKronies she is great lol...i hope you and your family have a wonderful day 🙏🏼💙💜
@@amoscardoza5253 hey, I'm doing ok just getting over being sick. 😃
@@MountainRainRain1luv You Bet!!
Watching all ur videos and im about to surprise my journeyman. Youre the man dude!!
Right on man I love hearing this!! The best apprentice is the guy taking the time to learn and be better. Learn how to get everything ready ahead for your journeyman and remember too he may have his own ways of doing things but the end product should be the same and the more time you can save and the quicker you get man that's awesome!
love how you explain everything so well.
Thank you Mr. Fermoyle!!! Means a lot coming from you!!
Chris that was a dope vid! I set it up so I could watch the vid while I was outside chopping wood and google is so smart that it heard me chopping wood and I got 3 axe commercials while your vid is on. F@%king spooky man! I didnt think it could identify sounds. Your background music had me cracking up.
Haha nice bros! The axe thing is really spooky. Thanks Amos!
Brilliant video, Thanks for the time u take out of our schedule, to Train up the Next Generation 💪🖖
Thank you, and your very welcome 👍
I m a Taper by trade, but i board too and sometimes I get the rare opportunity to do some ss framing. Fun stuff, wish I could do this more.
Nice man!!
We connect our wall channel putting the two flat sides together. This way the sides aren’t over lapping and you can screw them together straight down in the center of the channel instead of the sides.
Sure can do it that way too!! The important thing is to screw them together!!
Hi there I'm coming back to your channel and I love the tools that you are using. I can't wait to see more of your awesome content.
Thank you so much!! I appreciate that!
Deff always wanna pull off center of column!
Yeah man and you always need to pay close attention to the hash marks on the prints 👍
Hi Chris.Thank you very much buddy. Very helpful and informative video
Your very welcome I am glad it helped!
wow lots of information great channel. Need to share this out to others in the field! Thanks for sharing!
Yes man! Thank you so much. Your in the trades too? What do you do?
@@ConstructionKronies I do not but have friends that do so I let them know! They seemed excited to check out.
@@dubc3615 Sweet dude thank you!
Wow stay safe. Keep up the great work and nice to meet
Thank you, very nice to meet you as well!
Bro your camera fish eye lens is making me feel woozy bro!!! Lol nice video
Yeah the old GoPros were like that and I hated it, but I am using much better equipment nawadays, hope you like my new stuff better!
If I can ever build a building I would hire you man
I would be so honored Bob!!! My crew would deliver you the best of the best!!!
Do those pin bolts meet code for exterior walls/shear? (I'm in the highest seismic zone)How close to the concrete edge is allowed by code? Is everything 16ga?
Thanks for the awesome and detailed video, it helped a lot. Is there any way you could make a video covering the framing material takeoff looking at the blueprint? Thanks
Sure I can do that. I do have lots of videos explaining prints but not on doing a take off. I will do that. Just know that for every 1 ft of wall you will need 1 stud. Cheers!
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks again for the quick response, I love all of your videos and learned a lot and still learning a lot. Always stay blessed!
Nice job man 👏👏👏👏
Thanks!
That was probably the best how to video I've seen all month! Are those kickers i saw at the top?
Those were angles attached to the structural steel. They are fun cutting around with drywall... not lol. Thanks bros!
@@ConstructionKronies yeah, zero fun. 😝
Love your videos, helping me alot with me joining the trade this year. Hope you the best. God bless you in the name of Jesus
Very nice. Thank you for that. Anything you need help with or questions that's what I'm here for! Keep rockin it out there!
Excellent video! For the crc bracing, if the spec calls for Swiftclip or Fastbridge clips to fix the crc to the studs at the punchouts, every how often do these go in?
Yes so we stagger them from stud to stud every 4' does or the job specs will specify as well. I hope that helps👍
Thanks for the great videos! What’s the best ramset 22 caliber nail to use to affix the bottom metal floor tracking to the concrete?
For interior non-load bearing drywall track 25-20 gauge: 3/4" - Gas tool use TF1200 + T3MAG - Powder Tool use R25 #3 GRN .25cal strip, Master Shot #2 BRN .22cal single or the SA270 #3 GRN .27cal strip. For the exterior perimeter 18-12 gauge use - 1-1/4" SA270/XT540/COBRA #4 YEL .27cal strips! Hope this helps ya!
I just watched your video. Awesome! How much do you charge for stud walls? I just hot a call and asked me to do it but have no idea hiw much i should charge. It is 16’ high wall
Hey my good man. I charge $0.45 / square foot for steel stud. If it's light gauge and easy you can drop as low as 0.35 and for 18-16 gauge go as high as 0.65. also charge $2/ linear foot for angle in columns, soffit and bulkheads.
@@ConstructionKronies is this for surface sqf? And that include materials? Thank you so much for your reply 🙏🙏🙏
Only labor
Hi there, great job with the videos!!! At what height and over are kickers required to the ceiling joists?
Hey my man, so we actually never install kickers when a wall goes from floor to underside of structure. If you are looking at the tops here those angles are structural red iron supports and are done by the iron workers👍
@@ConstructionKronies thanks brother! What if the deck above is just 2x12 wood joist and top track is screwed into joists at 22' height?
Looks good!
Thank you!!
Good video, when you going to have a video with suspended ceiling ?
I can do one on suspended drywall ceilings but I don't do ceiling grid just in case that's what you wanted to see, sorry. Thank you for commenting.
Are your studs full height, or did you join shorter studs together? I need to frame a 28' high wall, tall I can find locally are 96" long studs. Can I join these together to get the height I need?
I need help framing a 12x12 free standing room. What do you use for the ceiling studs? This will have Sheetrock.
You can use anything for ceiling studs but if budget isn't too big of a deal go with 20 gauge 3-5/8" steel stud.
Bizarrely, they don't sell those channel strips in UK, you have to cut your own noggins using channel parts. I'm going to hunt around because that looks so much easier.
Oh crazy I didn't know that. Have you tried a drywall supply house? Carry channel?
@@ConstructionKronies we have strips that act as braces which are attached to outside facing edges in an X shape both sides. I prefer the channel running through the centre though.
Great video and I love that you are from Edmonton. I want to build four exterior shop walls out of 18 gauge commercial steel studs but I want to know how best to anchor the 16’ high wall to the 8” wide concrete grade beam. The wall is 72’ long so would you build it in 10 sections?
I would need to know more about your set up but we just build into structure, for 16' high you will need a lift, so yes you can set the track stud it out, move over and repeat till your done just be sure to set an offset of 2 to 4" for your laser line. For anchors you can use the 1/4" pin bolts for concrete im using here in the video, thats a 16g wall im building there. There are other things I've seen like the 1/2" or 5/8" concrete anchors im on my phone right now but drop me a reply and I will link you to the products.
I'm wondering whether or not that you could do a video on building a low wall? Where the wall is being built off a wall that is going to the pan decking. Wondering where I would put my Kickers & how it keep the wall plum as I'm building it. And how to keep the wall sturdy and plum when I'm finished?
Dude I totally will, but before I do just know that you need to build clips out of stud to fit into the q deck for walls or bulkheads that go to underside of structure. Always remember all you need is backing, something to attach to, like Lego. Always use lasers to plumb and level your walls and ceilings. If you ever have anything specific to ask me about a job your on take a photo and send it to me, email or Discord.
Also pony or knee walls are small, they just need you to make sure your elevation is correct, put 2 screws in your middle studs, and or end studs, always check your elevation at both ends and middle and square everything, always take the time to square studs top and bottom, you spend time to level your tracks, split the beam, so so it all right. Make good use of your tape measure, if you have a level or plumb benchmark you can measure over , up or down and it will also be level or plumb.
One last thing I forgot, about the clips, you can also build clips to between wall studs so you can attach lower walls to them. I shoot a clip at both ends of the wall right at elevation so I can use them as marks and install clips at the middle and at the bottom I just screw the lower wall stud to the higher wall bottom track. You can attach kickers to anything, just make sure your good over 4 feet. If your wall can't be braced every 4 ft then you have to up the gauge. 20 gauge is good for 20 ft.
@@ConstructionKronies gettlerraymond8@gmail.com that is my email, I know it would be out of your way, but if you do have the time maybe you could give me a couple pictures of what you mean by clips? Or anything else that you think that would help me out while I'm building these walls. This wall is about 10 ft tall maybe a little higher but it doesn't go to the pandecking. But we are attaching it to the walls that are going all the way to the pan decking, or the soffits that we built. Also as well I need your email and when I get pictures next week I will be sure to always give you pictures, and thank you so much for your help.
nice wall, do you need to add the wall stiffeners on a nonbearing partition interior office wall 10 feet high no insulation?
You don't have to but I highly recommend it. You don't need to clip it out, it's just good to have the wall channel in every 4' it's cheap and quick and the benefits are huge.
I do commercial framing full time. Normally we use Hilti steel shots for fixing locking-studs to iron. I know that pins work just as good as hex heads. I’ve had to relocate many walls, and pins are serious business, they are engineered to hang-on for dear life. Even when you use a claw to remove them, they aren’t easy to pull out.
We usually use shots as well. But this 15 gauge stud man, shots don't work so great. I agree the buggers can be difficult to remove. I find that using two claw hammers man, works the best to get em out. Cheers bro💪
@@ConstructionKronies i use the two hammer trick too, but the hatchet on my hammer is a nub now. lol. Cheers.
@@nunyabusiness4226 haha yeah bro! I just use two claw end hammers or even a cats claw and hammer works pretty good. Cheers man!
I might have missed it but how did you attach the track to the upper I beam? Did you still first? Use acoustic sealant? Thanks!
I didn't caulk the top track there. That slotted track is fire rated now. We used to seal it with the red fire stop. I shot the top track on with the Hilti dx-351 and steel pins. There are other ways for sure even self drilling techs but that takes much longer. Let me know if you have anymore questions my man!!
That was dope.💪 appreciated bro
Welcome bro 💪
Watching now 😁
Right on Jay my guy! 🔥💨💨💨
Hammer drill bit will go through 16 gauge. Do it all the time. Good video though.
I seriously doubt that, no offence at all but how many bits do you go through? I don't hammer drill anything past 20 gauge or what bits are you using?
What if you don't have a beam on the ceiling to tie in to? I'm building a tasting room inside a building almost identical to this and the divider wall ties in to the edge of the beam sealing it off from my space.
What is the ceiling your tieing into? Is is Qdeck(hollow or concrete filled), concrete, truss, Wilson joist, pre eng purlin or straight up concrete?
I'm a local 951 4th stage lather, been lathing throughout my apprenticeship but I've been wanting to master the art of framing . I know a little bit but one thing I can't grasp is setting up the layout for the studs so drywall falls perfectly in place especially pulling of inside or outside corners. When should I add the 5/8 to the layout and when shouldn't I and when to simply go every 16. The journeyman at work usually pull from the outside corner of the track but I seen your videos where you pull from the inside of the track behind the floater...
When I pull my tape to draw centers I'm still taking them from the outside of the track I'm just doing my layout on the inside of the room instead of the outside. When I add the 1/2" or 5/8" I do that when I'm pulling centers for side walls. I try to pull all my centers from the same direction to keep the flow of drywall consistent. There is a lot going on here maybe hard to explain properly. Does that make sense to you?
@@ConstructionKronies ok so if my layout starts on the side of a track where drywall passes I should add 5/8 but if my next wall starts from the corner behind the floater I should just do every 16 ?
Small question, doing my basement with Metal stud, can I instal my metal track right on the basement concrete, or I need to Caulk like you do? or maybe use a PT wood then screw my metal track on it?
I would definitely use the caulking. You can purchase it at any drywall supply house maybe even a home depot. I found a suitable one here on Amazon if you are in the states, if you are in Canada let me know I have a different solution. amzn.to/3L3IWVP
@@ConstructionKronies I live in canada :) (quebec)
@@jambony6350 O cool, because you can use either one of these: amzn.to/3B2gxLj
or amzn.to/3xcZ7dW
hi, thanks for this video, just a question , I have a 22 foot high wall, how can I put the studs together if I only have 10 feet each. thank you
So what i would do for 22 ft and couldn't use studs more than 10 feet i would just put standard track at the top of the fist section go track to track and build another section and then another. Use your deflection track at the very top.
Pay a professional, or atleast dont buy your studs at homedepot.
Which screws did you use to fasten the tracks to the steel beam?
We used the Hilti DX 351 steel to steel pins with green or yellow tabs. For screws we used #8 self drilling framing screws (but not to attach to structural those screws are for the studs to track).
@@ConstructionKronies Thank you for the information.
Very impressive work! I need to build a similar bulkhead but the height is 31'. Any suggestions on what studs to use? I am considering Clark Dietrich 550PDS125-30 33ksi G40EQ 16" oc. Any advice would be highly appreciated.
Yes the 6" 20 gauge is great for interior applications. If you are framing for an exterior wall bump it up to 18 gauge. 31' elevation is neat, how wide are you going?
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks for the quick reply. Interior wall, full length is 110', but it will not be in one straight. Goes across warehouse for about 75', breaks 90deg right for 16', then 90 deg left for the remaining 18'. So the wall will be supported on both ends of the warehouse, but it is not in one straight shot.
This guy is no journeyman. I wouldn't make any money on my projects if I wasted as much time as this guy lol! It's definitely a cute little video though 😅. Love the tenacity!
Like you wasting so much time leaving me these smart ass comments? I don't have to scab my work because I charge enough. I do 2 x braces plus 100 feet or a straight 300 to 400 ft of exterior in an 8hr day with 1 helper, you think that's slow, I think we know it's not.
@@ConstructionKronies oh ya, also, 'wall channel' or cold rolled channel is definitely not for holding insulation up. It prevents studs from rolling and provides rigidity. Fyi.
please post on rumble, youtube is too into censorship
rumble eh, cool I'll check it out thanks!
When is the best time to use an offset?
Offsets are used when we have obstacles in the way of the lasers, for long exterior walls or for transferring lines from floor to floor or something like that.
Can you install a stud wall against the exterior wood wall in a house? And shoot 2 inches of polyeurethane?
You can install a stud wall, sheat it with dens gold, apply blueskin and then use an adhesive or long screw with these round washers to install the rigid insulation.
ex foreman here :) lets gr0w and enjoy the party !
Awesome, what trade are you from? Thank you for coming by and commenting!
Good job brother
Thanks my man!!!
I am planning to add a couple of bedrooms and bathrooms to a large water-front building and want to do it all with metal studs. But in gathering information I have heard that metal on concrete will eventually rust, and some people out there swear that pressure-treated lumber should be used. Does the sealant you use prevent rust and corrosion?
The caulking helps for sure, the track doesn't ever rust but can get corroded. The steel will last forever.
How much you charge framing linear foot?
I use a sliding scale. I start at $4.50 / lf for easy low height walls, then work up to $13.50 for taller heavy gauge. For parapet I charge $15/lf and for ceilings i switch up to square foot, $0.40 to $0.80/sf. For bulkheads I charge $2/ft for angle plus $0.45 to $0.65 /sf. Don't forget anything when pricing a job. If you have really complicated stuff don't be afraid to charge more. Start with those numbers then feel your response from the client. Everyone developes into their own pricing strategy over time.
Never heard of anybody putting up top track before bottom All you gotta do is spilt the track on the bottom with a dot laser on both sides of ur track or shine a line all the way down
Yes, I like to put the top on first just out of habit. Most jobs you want the top on first so the bottom track isn't in the way of your lifts or scaffolds !
What size of c clamps do you use?
My favorite are the 9" Irwin 9DR but use the baby clamps for screwing in studs.
This will help me a lot, but do you really have to used conduit to drive the pin bolts down? I just hit them twice with a baby sledge or hammer and be done with it.
Right on good to hear and no you don't need to use the conduit at all. I most of teh time just use the clay side of my hammer. The conduit is good for long runs. This 16 gauge steel here is heavy duty so it's a good idea to ensure the bolts are in properly. I'm going to try that and see how the sledge hammer idea works, never done it that way! Cheers!
DX 5 Hilti gun 1"1/2 concrete nails , red shots , faster than drill a hole botton track !
Sure, but not for this 16 gauge, you can't shoot 16 gauge it has to be drilled down. And Hilti shots red is for super heavy duty steel and a DX 460 for the 351s, use the green tabs for concrete and the yellow for steel👍
Do you screw both sides of the stud?
Yes we square the stud accross at the top and bottom and then screw them in!
How does steel framing work in terms of insulation in the long run? Metal transfers heat very efficiently and I wonder if it would impact utility costs or comfort inside the house.
This is the interesting thing about steel stud. The insulation goes inside of them. For example insulation for wood walls is 15" wide and for steel is 17" wide. So you get more consistent coverage.
I read that due to the metal stud conductivity a 6" wall in wood would he R-19 but steel is effective R-4. But acoustics is still good
Steel stud can transfer cold into the wall system and create condensation.
Most commercial exterior stud use a sealed membrane on the exterior sheathing and then an "outsulation". Insulation outside the wall system, between a cladding carrier system that is attached to the steel stud wall with a thermal barrier.
The clips are not metallic.
What of your putting up walls that don't go all the way to the ceilling???
Great question. I'm editing a new series that explains how to do that. We use temp bracing along with some other techniques. Way too much to explain here.
Do you have to attach the top plate to the structure? Or can you build a freestanding room in the building?
You can build free standing walls for sure. I am editing a series of tutorials on that right now.
Thanks man! I'm leasing a space with a huge warehouse with 16 foot ceilings and I want to build a 19x26 room with 12 foot ceilings.
Will you please do a video on parapet framing and walls the clip to the building, go past the roof and act as the parapet wall also. I don't know the exact term. Please include the fastest ways possible. I'm trying to learn as fast as possible. I tested into the union but, I am no metal stud framing expert. I have 20 years in construction not all commercial. Please, anything will help, thank you. I've been thrown into both, I'm learning on the go. The parapet was easy but, there are obvious differences to every type of wall framing.
Yes I am really trying to land some of this framing. For the suspended walls that run up past the roof to make parapets as well what you have to do is shoot clips to the structure. Basically what I do is set 2 to 3 studs perfectly level and plumb for every 10 foot piece of track. This is also a good time to use an offset. What you do is use the laser handset to mark the back side of where the studs will land onto the clips so that when you have your top and bottom track set with those 2 to 3 studs you can then fill in the rest easily. When joining tracks together here use little pieces of stud. I like to use a rotating laser for levelling the studs and then a line laser to shoot the bottom elevation. All the studs should be cut the same length so that after you have set the bottom track the top track just has to sit tight on the top (no need to level both). When up on the roof I set the rotating laser to shoot in the top elevation, go around setting in your bottom track (make sure the plywood on the qdeck has membrane (AVB like Blueskin) and laying out your studs while writing your stud lengths down on the track. Cut your studs and set in your top track with 2 to 3 studs. You can go ahead setting top track and your helper can come behind studding the rest out. Hope that helps my good man!!
@@ConstructionKronies Chris, I appreciate you taking the time to respond so quickly. I have already done everything you talked about, remember, I was thrown into the fire, because I am already a journeyman they kind of expect me to know or at least ask questions. Like I said in my comment, the parapet was cake because I had already been working right next to the carpenters that were doing it previously on the same building. Also I have 20 years experience, I'm no expert but, I catch on quickly especially having a lot of years in wood framing. But nonetheless I did everything you talked about. This is our procedure, my GF set the bottom track first oddly enough, it was set on the exterior of the building so clipping it off was no problem, that was done all from a zoom boom/ 65. Bottom track, clips, then we set up the spinner on it's side and marked every 4-6 feet on the clip and did exactly what you said except for a bit closer together. Anyhow I ended up taking a little longer than expected because I wasn't sure of the best way to set up the laser for the elevation of the top track. There were some louvers in the wall, and every good carpenter knows to frame their openings first before you stud in the wall. You know the stigma of the union, the journeyman that test in get treated differently/ like shit. That doesn't bother me because I'm willing to learn and want to be best I can be. Thank you so much, I appreciate you more than you know, have a great day. MORE VIDEOS 😁
dude! I love it! Your actually one of the very few that knows to frame your opening first, you would not believe how many times over the years I have had to cut holes and patch! Good stuff!! I always talk to the foreman for the hvac, plumbing, sprinkler and even electric to find out about openings first thing!!! Super!
What tools do I need to do this job?
Hey my man, sorry for the late reply, it's been a busy week. You need a pouch set up, electrical tool pouch and 4 pocket screw pouch with belt and suspenders. And impact driver, drywall screw gun, drywall cut out tool, snips (red handles wiss) 25' tape measure, speed square, markers and pencils will get you going with the big boys in the trade. Email me and I can go into more specific details.
May I ask why you use drill and pins to secure bottom track to the concrete, as opposed to ramset or hilti concrete nailer? Is it a code thing?
Sometimes it is specified but in this case we are using 16 gauge steel, those shots don't work well with the heavier gauge steel.
I see, thanks.
Great tips
Super cool thanks!
Awesome Job ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thank you! Cheers!
18:00 to 18:24 can you explain what is meant at the segment starting at 18:00? I don't understand what is meant by pointing toward the drywall. Isn't the drywall going to be on each end of the wall as well as both sides of the studs? Which drywall is the hard side supposed to be pointing to? Especially in the case where drywall is on each end of the wall like in a house? Thanks
Hey there great question. The metal studs have a hard side and a soft side. The hard side is the flat and the soft side are the flanges. When we layout our studs we point them in the direction we draw our tape measure from sonthe drywaller knows where to start. And yes the drywall will be at the ends and both side. What I mean is we usually laser or level up the first sheet somewhere in the wall and then cut in our end pieces. Does that help? I can draw you a diagram next time I'm live too.
@@ConstructionKronies Yes. This helps out a lot. Thanks for the info!
How did you attach the top channel to the beam itself
I used the hilti dx 351 to shoot it on with the steel pins.
Very net great content.
Thank you 😊
How do you pin the top to the steel? Is it shot in or drilled?
Yes I shoot it with the Hilti DX-351 or 120. 10 to 12 pins per 10' section.
Hey, Great video. I use these as instruction since we are teaching virtually during COVID-19. I hate that I can't use this video because you have used the F word during the video.
O no I did? I can edit that out right from UA-cam. Let me see what I can do. It will take a day to process. Thank you for using my videos! I try to catch all of the swears in editing.
First F word is out, i am going to comb it for anymore. I have to edit out 1 at a time but I will have it done by tomorrow!
@@ConstructionKronies Thank you so much. I will be adding this video to my video library for my Carpentry 2 course. Thank you.
9:56 or so. "When you got a bunch of f***ing pins to put in..." conduit idea is a great tip.
@@ericmercer8411 That's great thank you! I went through the rest of the video and it was just that 1 I missed!
I need a metal stud Framer and drywall guy in Chino California for a TI job I have let me know if anyone’s available
U still looking? We do all that we work in the inland empire, we do all kinds of TI we do blue prints and pull permits if needed as well
What's the sizes we need in the step bit for pre drilling the holes for heavy gauge steel? for impact?
I like using the step bit 11 double flutes. 1-1/8" diameter but all you need is to get the nose through the steel.
@@ConstructionKronies okay will do..thanks bro
that so nice job
Cheers thank you!
THE CAMERA CURVES EVERYYYYYYYTHING AND MAKES IT KIND OF CRAZY WHEN YOU'RE SAYING 'LEVEL'
Haha it gets me every time 😛 I'm getting better equipment and learning how to shoot better video everyday!
Hi there. Can you let me know what exactly what kind of nails or pins you use to shoot the top track in to the beam. Thanks
Very good video 👍
I can get you a link when I'm back on PC but I'm using the Hilti DX 351 steel to steel pins I can't remember the exact size. I also have the cartridge for the strips of pins and. Each gun type has its own fasteners. I was using green tabs for shots as well, I can control the power on this gun as well for switching between concrete and the various steel to steel installs.
Was there a code or detail on doing ur headers without ears??? I never seen anyone set regulars headers like that
Its because of the 16 gauge steel. Usually I only use shoes with 25 gauge (light gauge) steel.
that is a good one im gona start doing that on heavy gauge.. That is what love i rather work on heavy gauge. Thank very helpful
@@christianarrizon9796 heavy gauge is my favorite!
Could you tell how much would cost Sq/f $ a wall like that? Thanks in advance
This specific wall I charged $7.34 / sf to finish both sides to fire tape. But this spec is very odd with 2' o.c. and 16 gauge steel. For labor on installing drywall and finishing taped for primer charge $1.65 / s.f. then add in material. Steel I charge by linear foot depending on the height. Basic 8' walls I charge $4.50 to $6.50, 8' to 12' I charge $15 and up to 20' I charge $25 and above 20" I charge $35.
Thank you
@@maratmarat6043 your welcome! Remember those are CAD prices you may want to convert them to USD.
do you have a link to these pin bolts?
Yes man right here bit.ly/ucanpinbolts
23:00 min mark give or take them studs Did not look plum I’m assuming you used a fish eye lens or something I was like what that’s not plum but I’m sure them studs are lol
Yeah I use a GoPro and get a lot of complaints about the lens. I have a new studio almost completed and got a cinema camera to shoot much better quality video. Coming this fall!!
Great video! Quick question so for people that do wood framing, they can get C5 (carpentry) license and start theie business. How is ot for people that have experience with stud metal framing. Is there a license as well ?
Actually no liscence required. When I piece work or contract its best to invoice through a corporation like a Ltd and have tax numbers, workers comp and possibly insurance like liability. There is an apprenticeship program for LISM Lather interior systems mechanic. Even for wood framing, you can be hired with or without a ticket. Basically if yiu can do the work you have a shot.
You aren't showing how"to put pins into the steel columns...."
hey there thank you for the comment. I remembering editing the video and I didn't have good footage for that part. But here is a video on the powder actuated gun (Hilti DX351) That I use for shooting all my steel to steel and concrete. ua-cam.com/video/wf6Y0EXB0ds/v-deo.html I hope this helps and if you have any questions please let me know!!!
Yeah I noticed the same thing
Meant to ask, when fastening the studs to the track, do you run both sides from the same side in the same direction (the framing screws) or each side from the outside in?
Yes bro! When I am doing the top of the studs I reach though and screw them in from the one side but the bottoms I screw in on each side if that makes sense?
@@ConstructionKronies yep, I completely understand that. 😁👍
@@meagaindave2049 Awesome man!
@@ConstructionKronies i, personally, like the pointed end of the framing screws piercing through on the opposite side. Makes for a good anchor of sorts when hanging the drywall. Lol. Although some inspectors won't allow the screws to face the same direction on opposite sides. A-holes. 🤣
@@meagaindave2049 Right bro yes that's how I do it too but in this case it's a steel column behind that drywall and so I cant do that there but your 100% right that's the best way to do it when its accessible!
Can you overlap studs to make the walls taller?
I would not do that. If you need to go track to track and put a smaller wall on top of the big wall. The studs HAVE to line up.
Great channel :) Thank you Sally for recommending this channel :) New subscriber and big like 35 :)
Sally is great. Thank you so much.
HELLO IM NEW HERE❤️
Awesome great to meet you!
How much do I charge on Kentucky for a big office project ? I having a hard time try to prove metal framing, can someone put me on the right direction?
Good day there. So I can't say, you need to know the rates for region. What scope of work are you bidding?
@@ConstructionKronies offices , 6k square foot 9 foot tall walls many doors and offices 🍀
@@rodoloforodriguez6156 This is what I charge in Canada, just convert it to USD. 0.27 sf for drywall, 0.15 for insulation, 0.32 for tape plus 1.00 per foot of bead, 0.40 sf for steel and 50.00 for each door. If you have to tape windows charge 500 each.
@@ConstructionKronies dont make sense , but thanks
What is they type of work you do? What pricing do you need specific?
I suppose you're right. I feel like I misjudged your video. I didn't consider that your objective is actually to make a video, not show production.
Cool bro! I've been planning for years now a massive drywall Olympics, I don't have all the support yet but would be awesome to meet up and learn from each other.
They have Sheetrock hanging tournaments. I've seen clips of it. But yeah, I would be down for sure. It'd be fun to learn other people's lingo and techniques.
why dont you just use the nail gun that takes 22 cal blanks? it shoots the nail right straight thru the stud and into the floor/concrete it would save you alot of time.
Because this is 16 gauge steel and designers will always spec it this way. The shots won't do the job here but will work shooting steel to steel! Good to see yo bro!
Yo CK!!!
Yo Amos my guy!!
I dont think u need anchors concrete pins should be good cheaper
Yeah I use the 1/4" pinbolts for my anchors especially for this 16 gauge. I'll have to srub through the video to see if I missed clarifying that. Thanks for the heads up👍
You shouldnt be burning through bits like that. Buy some STL8 and your bits will last 5x longer.
Always appreciate tips bro, thanks
Very informative, but the music is a nuisance.
Good.to know, thanks for the feedback !
Any chance I can bounce a situation off of you... messenger or phone...
Sure, we can set up a zoom call or something, or talk on Discord.
Who said anything about scabbing work? Certainly not me. My works extremely clean. Your defensiveness makes me wonder though. Anyway, I like your principals and fundamentals, you clearly know how to frame, but if this video actually portrays your work flow, then I promise my partner and I could blow you out of the water lol.
Sorry man, these videos I do take time to make and unless I'm showing a time-lapse or sequence it doesn't show me how I am when I'm not filming. I try to film and get as much as I can in to show people. Please accept my apology. I've been a bit cranky lately with this documentary I'm just finishing up on the homeless encampments here in my city, have been seeing crazy stuff.